• Men's trousers in an hour - how to sew homemade trousers with elastic based on a pattern of classic trousers. How to sew men's trousers? How to sew men's pants with elastic

    16.01.2024

    To create a pattern for men's trousers? Then we move on to calculating and constructing a pattern for semi-fitting trousers. For greater accuracy, we will build the front and back halves of the trousers together. First, let's build the front half of the trousers, then the back half based on it.

    For an example of construction, let’s take the following measurements:

    Increases:

    To make your task easier, you can use a calculator table to accurately calculate the design or a ready-made parametric pattern. Press plus to open the tab and learn more. ↓

    Ready solution:

    Calculator table for calculating the basic pattern of men's trousers

    You enter your measurements, and the program automatically calculates all the formulas. You don't have to count in your head or on a calculator and be afraid of making a mistake in the calculation.

    290 rub.

    Construction of the front half of the trousers

    We construct a right angle with the vertex at point T.

    1. Pants length:

    From point T down vertically we set aside the length of the trousers + 1 cm, and put point H. TN = db + 1 cm.

    TN = 100 + 1 = 101 cm.

    2. Seat height:

    From point T downwards, we will put down the taken measurement of the seat height Вс and put point Ш or according to the calculation ТШ = ½ Сб + (1 - 3 cm for the elderly); ½ Sat for middle age; ½ Sat – (1-3 cm for young people).

    TS = ½ × 51 = 25.5 cm (example for middle age).

    3. Knee line:

    From point Ш down vertically we lay off the segment ШК = ½ ШН – 6 cm.

    ШК = ½ × 75.5 – 6 = 31.75 cm.

    4. Hip line:

    From the point Ш upwards we will plot the segment ШБ = 1/3 of the segment ТШ.

    ШБ = 1/3 ТШ.

    ШБ = 25.5 ÷ 3 = 8.5 cm.

    Now from points T, B, W, K, H we draw horizontal lines perpendicular to the TN line.

    5. Step width:

    We set the width of the front half along the step line from point Ш to the right horizontally and place point Ш4.

    ШШ4 = ½ Sat + 5 cm (for youth); + 6 cm (for middle age); + 7 cm (for the elderly).

    ШШ4 = ½ × 51 + 6 = 31.5 cm (example for middle age).

    6. Width along the hips:

    From point Ш4 horizontally to the left we lay off a segment of 4 cm (constant value) and place point Ш2.

    W4W2 = 4 cm (constant value).

    Or ШШ2 = ШШ4 - 4 = 31.5-4 = 27.5.

    Next, from point Ш2 upward we restore the perpendicular to the line ШШ4. And at its intersection with the hip line we will place point B1, and at the intersection with the waist line we will place point T1. Distances ШШ2, ББ1, ТТ1 are the width of the trousers along the hip line.

    7. Pants fold line (arrows):

    We divide the segment ШШ4 in half and put the point Ш0.

    ШШ0 = Ш0Ш4 = ½ ШШ4.

    ШШ0 = Ш0Ш4 = 31.5 ÷ 2 = 15.75 cm.

    From points T, B, K, H we lay off horizontal segments to the right equal to the segment ШШ0 and place points T0, B0, K0, H0. And we connect point T0 to point H0 - this is the folding line (iron line) of the trousers.

    8. Pants width at the bottom:

    From point H0 to the left and right we set aside a distance equal to the measure Shn minus 2 and divide by 2.

    Н0Н1 = Н0Н2 = (Шн – 2) ÷ 2.

    Н0Н1 = Н0Н2 = (22 – 2) ÷ 2 = 10 cm.

    We connect point H1 with point Ш, and point H2 with point Ш4 with straight lines. At the intersection of these lines with the knee line we place points K1 and K2, respectively.

    9. Bend the trousers at the knee line:

    From point K1 to the right and from point K2 to the left we set aside 1 - 1.5 cm.

    K1K11 = K2K22 = 1 – 1.5 cm.

    We connect point K11 with points Ш and Н1, and point K22 with points Ш4 and Н2.

    10. Width of trousers at the waist:

    From point T0 to the right we lay off the segment ToT11 = ¼ St + 0.5 cm.

    Т0Т11 = ¼ × 42 + 0.5 = 11 cm.

    Let's find the auxiliary point T12. To do this, we lay down a segment equal to 1/3 of the segment TS from point T1.

    Т1Т12= 1/3 × ТШ. T1T12 = 25.5 ÷ 3 = 8.5 cm.

    Point T11 is smoothly connected to point T12.

    We move the width of the trousers along the waist line from point T11 to the left and put point T2. T11T2 = ½ St + tuck or fold solution. Dart or fold opening = 2 – 3 cm.

    Т11Т2 = 42 ÷ 2 + 2 = 23 cm.

    The rise of the side seam at the waist line T2T22 = 1 – 1.5 cm, depending on how the person wears the trousers.

    Now we connect points T22, B, Ш, K11 and H1 with smooth lines and get the line of the side seam of the front half of the trousers.

    And we connect points T22, T0 and T11 with smooth lines and get the waist line of the front half of the trousers.

    11. Position of dart or fold:

    From point T0, we set aside half of the tuck or fold solution to the left and to the right. Dart or fold opening = 2 – 3 cm. Dart length 8-10 cm.

    12. Auxiliary point C:

    From point Ш2 we draw an angle bisector equal to 0.3 of the segment ШБ.

    Ш2С = 0.3 × 8.5 = 2.6 cm.

    Through points T11, T12, C, Ш4 we draw a smooth line of the bow (middle seam).

    13. Mid Bottom Raise:

    From point H0, step back 0.5-1 cm upward and place point H5. Through points H1H5H2 we will draw a beautiful line for the bottom of the front half of the trousers.

    14. Pocket location:

    The location of the pocket on the trousers depends on the style. In classic trousers, we retreat 6 - 7 cm from point T22 along the waist line and 21 - 22 cm along the side seam. We get points 7 and 22.

    We outline the front half of the trousers with a bright outline.

    Constructing the back half of the trousers

    15. Pants width at the bottom:

    From point H0 we lay off the segments H0H3 = H0H4 = (Shn + 2) ÷ 2 to the right and left.
    Н0Н3 = Н0Н4 = (22 + 2) ÷ 2 = 12 cm.

    16. Pants width at knee level:

    From points K11 and K22 to the left and right horizontally we will put 2 cm aside and get points K3 and K4.

    K11K3 = K22K4 = 2 cm.

    17. Side seam:

    We lay off the segment BB2 = 1/10 Sat from point B horizontally to the left.

    Let's align the side cuts with the front half. That is, the side cut of the rear half from point H3 upwards should be equal to the side cut of the front half H1T22 (along the curve). In accordance with this, we obtain point T33. It may be above or below the T3 point or coincide with it. Let's decorate the side cut of the back half of the trousers with a smooth, beautiful line.

    18. Balance of trousers and width of the back half along the waist line:

    From point K0, with radius K0T33, draw an arc to the right. Connect point T33 to the arc with a segment equal to the width of the back half of the trousers along the waist line. We get point T4.

    Т33Т4 = ½ St + Rv (dart solution) + 0.5 cm. Rv = 2 – 4 cm.

    Т33Т4 = 42 ÷ 2 + 3 + 0.5 = 24.5 cm.

    19. Width of trousers along the hips:

    From point B2 to the right along the line of the hips we lay off the segment B2B3 = (Sb + Pb + 3) – BB1.

    B2B3 = (51 + 2 + 3) – 27.5 = 28.5 cm.

    We connect T4 to B3 and continue this line to the step line. At the intersection with the step line we place point Ш22.

    20. Auxiliary point D:

    From point Ш22 we draw the bisector of angle B3Ш22Ш2. We get point D.

    W22D = 2 – 3 cm. Point D is auxiliary.

    21. Width of trousers along the step line:

    From point Ш1 to the right we lay off the segment Ш1Ш5, which is equal to (1/3 About × 2 + 4) – ШШ4. Note Ob is the circumference of the hips, that is, you need to multiply Sa by 2.

    Ш1Ш5 = (102 ÷ 3 × 2 + 4) – 31.5 = 40.5 cm.

    22. Instep seam:

    Let's connect points H4, K4, Ш5 with straight lines. Now let’s measure the length of the crotch seam of the front half of the N2K22Sh4 trousers and make the crotch seam of the rear half 1 cm shorter (for a drawstring for ironing during wet-heat treatment). Н4К4Ш6 = Н2К22Ш4 – 1 cm. Let’s form the crotch seam with a smooth line, through points H4, K4 and Ш6.

    And we will draw the middle section of the trousers through points T4, B3, D and Ш6 with a smooth, beautiful line.

    23. Mid-bottom descent:

    From point H0 we put 0.5 - 1 cm down, we get point H6. Let's connect points H3, H6 and H4 with a smooth line.

    24. Location of darts:

    We mark the middle of the first dart 8 - 9 cm from point T33 to the right along the waist line, and put a point at 1. We mark the middle of the second dart 8 - 9 cm from the middle of the first, and put a point at 2. The opening of each dart is 1 - 2 cm. The length of the darts is 7 - 8 cm.

    25. Back pocket location:

    We place the pocket 5 cm from the side cut and 7 - 8 cm from the top cut (from the waist). Pocket length 14 cm.

    That's it, our trousers are built!
    If you have any questions, write in the comments. I wish you all good luck and see you in new articles!

    © Olga Marizina

    Home clothes should give a person the opportunity to rest, so for women there are pajamas and , and men prefer shorts and loungewear. But there are also trousers in the form of house pants, with elastic, which men will like. You can sew them from any fabric, even striped or checkered. These lounge pants can be part of pajamas for men. In order to sew home pants for a man, you need to take measurements and create a simple pattern. Let's create a pattern for pants for relaxing with an elastic band, according to the following measurements: waist semicircumference 44cm, hip semicircle 52cm and pants length 110cm. If these are not your measurements, then substitute in the description of the construction of the pattern and get a pattern for the desired size. We start building with the front half of simple trousers. If the numbers are marked *, then they are constant for all sizes.

    Draw a right angle, with the vertex at point A. From point A, put down 110 cm of the trouser length measurement and mark it as point N. From H to the right, draw an arbitrary line. From t. A, put 28 cm down and mark t. W According to the calculation: 1/2 the measurement of the semicircle of the hips plus 2 cm * 52: 2 + 2 * = 28 cm. From point Ш to the right an arbitrary line.

    Divide the distance from T. W to T. H in half and set aside 6 cm from T. Division and mark it as T. K. From T. K to the right, draw an arbitrary line.

    From t. A set aside to the right, mark 28cm as t. T. According to calculation: 1/2 the measurement of the waist semicircle plus 6cm* 44:2+6*=28cm. From t. T down, draw a line until it intersects with the first horizontal line, t - ku. designate intersections as Ш1. Then, from t. T downwards, set aside 1 cm to designate t. T1. From t. And put 2 cm to the right to designate t. T2. Then connect T2 and T1.

    From point Ш to the right, set aside 32 cm and designate Ш2. According to calculation: 1/2 measurements of the semicircle of the hips plus 6cm* 52:2+6*=32cm. From point Ш2, draw a line down until it intersects with the lower horizontal line. Designate the intersection point as H1. Extend the line until it intersects with the second line and mark point K1.

    Bow line. From point Ш1 along the line dividing the angle in half, set aside 3 cm. From point Ш1, set aside 6 cm upwards, place point Ш3. Draw a bow line through points T1, Ш3, 3, Ш2.

    Step seam. Set aside 6 cm from point H1 to the left, place point H2. Connect points Ш2 and Н2. The point of intersection with line KK1 is designated K2. Divide the distance from point Ш2 to point K2 in half. From the division point to the left at a right angle, set aside 0.5 cm. Connect points Ш2, 0.5, К2.

    Side seam. From point A, put 17 cm down, mark point B. From point H, put 6 cm to the right, mark point H3. Draw a line through T2, B, W, H3.

    Pattern of men's pants, back half

    Copy the pattern of the front half of the pants and complete the pattern of the back half of the men's pants. From point Ш2 to the right, set aside 8cm and place point Ш4 according to the calculation of 1/4 of the distance from point Ш to point Ш2 32:4=8cm.

    Seat line. Set aside 6 cm from point T to the left, place point T3. Connect points Ш2 and Т3 with a dotted line, divide it in half and set aside 0.5 cm from the division point to the right at a right angle.

    Divide the distance from point Ш2 to point Ш4 in half, and set aside 1 cm from the division point downwards. From point Ш4, set aside 0.5 cm downwards and place point Ш5. Draw the seat line through points Ш3, 0.5, Т3 and further up, extend the line by 5 cm and place point T4. Continue the seat line through points Ш3, 3, Ш2,1, Ш5.

    Waist line of men's pants. From point T3, set aside 29cm to the left, mark T5, according to the calculation: 1/2 the measurement of the waist semicircle plus 7cm* 44:2+7*=29cm. Connect points T4 and T5. From point K1, extend the line to the right of any length. From point H2, set aside 2 cm to the right, mark H4. Connect points Ш5 and Н4. The point of intersection with the horizontal line KK1 is designated as point K3. From point Ш5 to point K3, divide the distance in half and set aside 0.5 cm from the division point to the left. Connect points Ш5, 0.5, K3 to create a crotch seam.

    From point H3, set aside 2 cm to the left, mark point H5. Connect points T5 and H5. The pattern of pants for men has been created; when laying it out on the fabric, add some extra seams.

    * As a result of payment, a file with a pattern is automatically sent to your specified email. If the file has not arrived within 30 minutes, then you need to send request for a pattern search. No need to pay again!

    Patterns are given without seam allowances.

    Uncover

    Before cutting, the fabric must be decated.

    Made from main fabric

    — front half – 2 children.

    - rear half - 2 children.

    - belt loops (cut out yourself in the form of rectangles 5x7 cm) - 5 pieces.

    — facing of the fastener (marked on the front half of the trousers) – 1 piece.

    From lining fabric:

    - slope (cut out yourself in the form of a rectangle 18x10cm) - 1 child.

    — back pocket burlap – 2 pieces.

    - burlap front pocket - 2 pieces.

    — facing of the fastener – 1 piece.

    - front pocket leaf - 2 pieces.

    - back pocket leaf - 2 children.

    Seam allowances: 1.5 cm for cuts, 4 cm for hems.

    Description of tailoring

    Duplicate the details with non-woven fabric.

    1. Make pockets into a frame on the front halves of the trousers. We recommend studying this technology in more detail here:

    If you are sewing a pocket in a frame for the first time, then first practice on a scrap of similar fabric - this way you will avoid annoying mistakes when sewing trousers.

    2. Sew darts on the back halves.

    3. Make pockets into a frame on the back halves.

    4. Place the front halves of the trousers with the back halves face to face and sew the side and crotch seams. Finish the allowances using an overlocker or sewing machine using an overlock stitch. Iron it out.

    5. Place a mark on the front half 1 cm up from the bottom edge of the mark. Sew the middle seam from this marking to the crotch seam.

    6. Fold the facing and the front left half with the right sides inward and stitch from the top edge to the mark. Turn the facing to the wrong side, iron it and stitch at a distance of 1-2 mm from the edge.

    7. On the second half, make a notch at the mark (see point 5), turn the fastener allowance to the wrong side, not reaching 0.7 cm from the edge. Iron it.
    Place the zipper under the right edge of the front half and stitch close to the teeth. Close the clasp.
    Sew the left zipper band to the facing. The seam should not touch the front half. Topstitch the left edge from the front side according to the marking, catching the facing.
    Fold the slope in half lengthwise, iron it and finish it with an overcast stitch. Pin and stitch the bevel under the right edge of the zipper opening, placing a stitch into the zipper stitching seam.

    8. Design the belt loops. Baste them to the top edge of the trousers.

    9. Sew a middle seam and place the pant legs one inside the other with the right sides facing inward.

    10. Sew on the waistband. Tuck and stitch the loose ends of the belt loops.

    11. Make a loop on the left half of the belt, and sew a button on the right half. Sew on the trouser hooks.

    12. Hem the bottom edge of the trousers using trouser braid.

    Sewn using this pattern (thanks to the site guests for the photo!):

    The pattern for the Casket website was prepared by Victoria Ivanova.

    Patterns of men's trousers and description of tailoring

    Pattern for men's trousers with a classic cut

    Men's trousers with a classic fit

    Technical drawing of trousers

    This option is well suited for both office work and everyday wear. It all depends on what fabric you choose. Material consumption is indicated for sizes 48, 50, 52 and 54. Length along the side seam from the waist line: 112.5 (114-115.5-117) cm

    What you will need:

    • 1.75 (1.80-1.85-1.90) m gabardine width. 150 cm
    • 35 cm (size 48/50), 40 cm (size 52/54) viscose lining in tone, wide. - 140 cm
    • 55 cm cotton fabric (lining) in tone, width. - 140 cm
    • 15 cm spacer adhesive material wide 140 cm
    • 1.30 m matching bias tape
    • 1 tone-on-tone zipper - 11 cm
    • 2 buttons, 15 mm in diameter.

    Pattern details for men's trousers

    Plan for gluing pattern sheets

    Copy the parts patterns. Draw parts E, F in the form of rectangles. For the lining, use the pattern of part 12, connected to part B, up to the marking line (approximately the knee line).

    • REAR HALF OF TROUSERS 11+11A
    • FRONT HALF OF TROUSERS 12+12A
    • RIGHT SIDE OF THE CLASP 13
    • BELT 14
    • BARREL + POCKET LINING 15
    • BACK POCKET LINING 16 = CUTTING OUT TO TURN OUT, ALIGNING THE FOLD OF THE TRAKING WITH THE BOTTOM LINE
    • CUT LEFT SIDE OF CLASP A = COPY PART 12 FROM THE PATTERN
    • BARREL OF THE FRONT HALF OF PANTS B = COPY PART 15 FROM THE PATTERN
    • FRONT POCKET TURNING C = COPY PART 15 FROM THE PATTERN
    • BACK POCKET VALVE D = COPY PART 16 FROM PATTERN
    • BACK POCKET LEATHER E = 13X5 CM
    • Belt Belts F = 57X2 CM

    Layout plan

    Plan for laying out parts on fabric

    Lay out the patterns of the parts on the folded fabric. Place parts 13, A and F in a spread, see diagrams. Lay out the indicated patterns on a folded cotton cloth. Place part 13 on the canvas in a spread. On the folded viscose lining, lay out the pattern of part 12 (in the transverse direction), as shown in the diagram, aligning the lower cut of the part with the edge. Lay out parts 14 and E on the folded interlining material. Cut out the parts with an allowance of 1 cm. Add 5 cm to the hem of the bottom.

    How to sew men's trousers

    Duplicate the adhesive spacer. material of the specified parts.

    Finish the darts on the back halves of the trousers.

    On each back half of the trousers, make a welt pocket with a leaf with set-in ends: pin the inside along the pocket markings. back pocket lining side down. Iron the leaf along the wrong side. side inward. Sew it along the markings to the main part (right sides), directing the leaf with the fold down. Stitch the face valance on the opposite side of the pocket markings. side down so that between the lines there is a gap equal to the width of the leaflet in its finished form. Cut the main piece and the lining with diagonal notches to the ends of the stitches, fold the leaf upward, and the valance to the wrong side. side. Zigzag stitch the edges of the leaves onto the pocket lining. Fold back the lining, placing it over the valance. Straighten the valance and, following the markings, sew its lower edge onto the pocket lining in a zigzag pattern. Attach the lining to the valance stitching seam. Secure the ends of the pocket by stitching along the base of the seam allowance corners. Sew the edges of the pocket lining. Baste the back pocket lining. Tack the ends of the pockets from the faces. sides of the main part.

    Finish the front pockets: first sew a zigzag stitch and then a straight stitch on the flange (with the wrong side down) on the front. barrel/lining side. Likewise, stitch the facing of the front pocket onto the side/lining of the pocket. Finish the pocket as described in the Sewing Guide, sewing a finishing stitch along the edge, by hand, using small stitches.

    Baste the front halves of the trousers onto the lining of the front halves of the trousers so that the lining does not pull in the main parts. Overcast the sections of the main piece, joining them together with the lining with overcasting stitches.

    Sew the side and crotch sections of the trousers. Press the seams.

    Fold the trouser halves together. sides inward, align their top edges, crotch seams and, stepping back approximately 8 cm from these edges, sew the middle edges to the fastener.

    Fold the sill and sill backing together and grind the outer edges. Trim seam allowances to 5mm. On the front halves. trousers, sew a fastener with a hem on the men's side.

    Process six belt loops. Baste the belt loops, placing them outward. sides down, onto the top cut of the product. Topstitch the belt loops, sewing seams at intervals of 2 cm from the top edge.

    Trim, adding 1 cm to the seam allowance, the left side of the waistband at the front edge according to the markings. Edge the longitudinal internal sections of each part of the waistband with bias tape. Fold the waistband pieces in half lengthwise and stitch the ends. Trim the seam allowances to 5 mm, turn the parts of the belt right side out. side, straighten the ends and iron the pieces along the middle.

    Size chart for men's trousers No. 1

    Download patterns for men's trousers No. 1 (sizes 48 - 54):

    Sew the waistband pieces from the faces. sides of the trouser halves. Press the seams onto the waistband. Stitch the middle edges of the trousers (in the open area) and the back edges. sections of belt parts. Press the seam to a length of approximately 15-20 cm. Stitch the longitudinal edge of the inner side of the waistband into a stitching seam.

    Fold the cross sections of the belt loops inward and sew the folds to the top edge of the belt.

    Press the hem of the trousers to the wrong side. side and sew with hidden stitches.

    Sew the loops along the markings on the slope and on the left end of the belt. Sew the buttons according to the eyelets.

    Pattern for men's casual trousers

    Men's trousers pattern No. 2

    This model is in many ways similar to the previous one. The pattern in the document is located horizontally; it is recommended that when printing, select the “Poster” function and set the scale to 100% (see screenshot below).

    • main fabric for trousers;
    • cotton fabric for burlap pockets;
    • 1 m of lining fabric;
    • lightning;
    • 1 button - 1.5 cm in diameter and a metal hook.

    Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of the garment. To find out the fabric consumption, print the pattern and lay out its details along the width of the main fabric.

    The tailoring of the trousers is identical to that of the first model.

    Size chart for trousers No. 2

    Download patterns for men's trousers No. 2 (sizes S - XL):

    Pattern of men's sports trousers

    Step-by-step instructions on how to sew men's sports trousers using a ready-made pattern with your own hands

    Description of the trouser pattern

    Electronic ready-made pattern for sports trousers in men's sizes from 42 to 56.

    Sizes: 42-56 (buyer receives all sizes).

    File format: PDF, the pattern is made in full size and without seam allowances.

    Price: $2 (payment in the currency of the buyer’s country)

    The difficulty level of sewing these sweatpants is easy. Pattern for beginners. It is possible to sew trousers without pockets.

    What is included in the trouser pattern kit

    The set of patterns for sports trousers includes (Fig. 1):

    • PP-ZP pattern (the side line is marked and the pattern can be cut along it before cutting);
    • patterns for large pocket details (burlap reaches the seam of the bow);
    • Patterns for regular size pocket pieces.

    The belt pattern is not included with the kit, since the belt is a strip of fabric. Further in the description, read how to cut it.

    To sew these trousers, you can only use stretch knitted fabrics. The most suitable are footer and fleece, but you can choose thinner ones.

    Fabric consumption for a width of 150 cm will be from 120 to 150 cm, depending on the size and length of the trousers.

    The consumption of a 180 cm wide footer will be 110 – 120 cm, depending on the size.

    How to download the pattern and print it

    How to cut these men's sweatpants for different sizes

    Before cutting out the trousers of this model, it is very important to determine their final length.

    At the same time, it is important to consider whether the bottom will be hemmed or with a drawstring, which requires an overlap - an overlap in trousers with a drawstring allows the knees to stretch less.

    When measuring the length of finished trousers, write down if you included a belt in the length or if you measured the length without a belt.

    Of course, you can simply make it longer and cut off the excess length during fitting.

    If there is a need to sew trousers with piping along the side seam or to model a combined style, then the pattern can be cut along the side line, but in other cases this is not necessary.

    In the kit you see patterns of four pockets - two “cut-off barrels” and two patch pockets.

    "Cut-off barrel." For those who like to carry smartphones, keys, wallet and hands in their pockets, we choose the details of a large pocket. For the rest - ordinary.

    We cut out the burlap valance from the same fabric as the trousers. For example, from the footer. The burlap facing can be cut out both from the main fabric and from thinner knitwear.

    We cut out the patch pockets from the main fabric and these are the only parts that require seam allowances; the remaining parts are cut out without allowances.

    So, for patch pockets, the allowances are as follows: along the line of entry into the pocket - 2.5 cm, along the remaining sections - 1.5 cm.

    Cutting this model of sports trousers is simplified by the absence of a side seam (Fig. 2 – 4). The lobe runs along the lateral line, in other words, the lateral line should be parallel to the edge.

    The “side” along the entry line into the pocket can be cut off immediately. The share of burlap valance should be close to the share of PP-ZP, and the burlap facing can be laid as desired.

    A belt is a strip cut along a longitudinal or transverse thread.

    The cutting dimensions of the belt are as follows:

    Belt length = waist cut length according to trouser pattern

    Belt width = two finished widths + 2 cm

    Cutting small sizes with a fabric width of 150 cm is shown in Fig. 2. There are no difficulties here - the fabric is folded in half, the edges are aligned.

    Cutting large sizes with a fabric width of 150 cm is shown in Fig. 3. If, when cutting the width of the fabric, the PP-ZP part does not fit, then cut off the fragment that does not fit from the pattern and lay it lower, adding an allowance of 1 - 1.5 cm along the cutting line.

    After cutting, we glue the “wedge” cut off from the pattern back end-to-end with tape.

    Please note that after grinding this “wedge” and carefully ironing the seam, it is necessary to align the PP-ZP part, that is, check its shape with the pattern.

    And to cut patch pockets on the ZP, you need to deploy the lunge.

    The same little “trick” with cutting out patch pockets can also be useful when cutting large sizes on a 180 cm wide footer.

    Don't forget to cut off the "side" of the PP along the line of entry into the pocket.

    We finish cutting by marking the entry line into the pocket on the “burlap-valance” piece. The marking must be done with thread.

    How to sew men's sports trousers with your own hands

    As mentioned above, for sewing you will need a modern household overlocker and a household sewing machine to perform a knitted seam and a narrow zigzag.

    Please note that the overlock stitch, which is often used when sewing cheap knitwear, is NOT SUITABLE for sewing sports trousers. I have no doubt that you have already seen many of these.

    We begin sewing by grinding the entrance to the pocket. We apply a burlap facing to the PP face to face and connect the parts along the entry line with a narrow zigzag. We cut the allowances of the resulting seam and bend them towards the burlap facing and secure them with another line of a narrow zigzag. After that, we iron the seam of the entrance to the pocket, trying so that the seam is not visible from the face of the trousers.

    Finishing stitching is optional, but it is very important that it is elastic. This can be the same zigzag, three-piece zigzag, or any decorative stitch that can be stretched without tearing.

    When the entrance to the pocket is hemmed, we grind the burlap valance, having previously chipped the pocket with tailor's pins. We sew on an overlocker using a knitted seam, but if you do not have enough experience, you can stitch with a narrow zigzag, and then overcast with an overcast or knitted seam.

    Please note that only part of the burlap cuts are sewn down (Fig. 5).

    After stitching the burlap, tacks are made on the front side of the PP. The optimal length of the bartack is 1.5 cm. You can use a regular straight stitch or a tight zigzag stitch.

    It is important that the bartack does not get into the side dart seam or the waistband seam - otherwise these seams will not hold up and the trousers will have to be repaired frequently. Therefore, the distance from the cut to the setting should be 1 - 1.2 cm.

    We sew patch pockets for the back half from the entrance to the pocket, first duplicating the seam allowance with knitted double fabric.

    Then, all allowances are ironed onto a cardboard template.

    Pockets are marked in the middle of the waist down from the waist 5 - 7 cm and adjusted.

    When the pockets are ready, be sure to iron them thoroughly.

    We sew the dart with a narrow zigzag and cover it with a knitted seam, then iron it. We thread the ends of the stitching using a needle with a large eye into the seam.

    We sew with a knitted seam and iron the crotch seams. We sew the seam of the vision bow with the same knitted stitch. You can also strengthen this seam with a narrow zigzag or a special “unequal” zigzag. The main thing is that the elasticity is preserved and do not forget about the iron.

    We sew the belt into a “ring” and iron it in half lengthwise. In the seam of the waistband we leave holes for threading the elastic. We lay two lines along the waistband using a narrow zigzag. After this, you can stitch the belt, overcast the stitching seam and insert the elastic into it.

    To sew sports trousers at home, when processing the belt, it is recommended to use a narrow elastic band so as not to damage the household machine by sewing with a wide elastic band.

    We process the bottom into a hem with an open cut - fold it once and hem it with a three-piece zigzag or any other decorative elastic seam.

    The ideal option is a cover stitch, but it can be replaced.

    Creating a pattern for men's trousers

    The construction of men's trousers is based on the article “Zlachevskaya’s Trousers”.

    When taking measurements from Leonid, pay attention to how easier it is to include the increase in freedom of fit to the aircraft in the aircraft’s measurements: take it correctly!
    The length measurements indicate both the length to the floor and the required length of the trousers (in our particular case, 3 centimeters shorter).

    PH=1.5 PU=7 DP=99/96 FROM=75+2=77
    BH=2 BU=15 DB=100/97 OB=88+6=94
    ZX=5.5 Memory=15 DZ=100.5/97.5 BC=25+2=27
    VK=43

    Let's do the calculations.

    We count the amount of darts at the waist:
    S=(OB-OT):2=(94-77):2=8.5 cm

    Let's calculate the tuck solutions.
    RP = 1.5: (1.5+2+5.5)*8.5=1.4
    RB = 2: 9*8.5=1.9
    RZ = 5.5: 9*8.5=5.2

    We calculate the displacement of the side seam.
    OO1=(ZH-PH):2=(5.5-1.5):2=2 cm
    As mentioned earlier in the article on constructing a skirt pattern, if OO1 is more than 2 cm, then it makes sense to divide this value in half, thereby making a compromise solution, and placing the real side seam between the verticals drawn through the section of the waist and hips. OO1:2=1 cm.

    Let's calculate the width of the panels.
    Front piece width = OB:4-OO1:2=94:4-1=22.5 cm
    Back piece width = OB:4+OO1:2=23.5+1=24.5 cm

    Side dart distribution
    It is carried out in the same way as when constructing a skirt pattern.
    RB=1.9 cm
    Length of the arc at the waist when stitched:
    FROM:4=77:4=19.3 cm
    Length of the arc according to the drawing, with a dart at the waist:
    19.3+RP=19.3+1.4=20.7
    Part of the side dart that needs to be removed from the front panel:
    22.5-20.7=1.8cm
    Then you need to remove from the rear panel:
    1.9-1.8=0.1 cm.

    Let's calculate the width of the trouser wedges.
    Sum of wedges=OB*0.38*0.38=88**0.38*0.38=13.6 cm
    ShPK=OB*0.38*0.38*0.38=5.2 cm
    ShZK=8.4 cm

    Construction of a drawing of trousers. Front detail.

    Drawing grid. Stepping back from the top edge of the sheet by an amount equal to the length of the future product plus 5-10 cm, we draw a horizontal line, which is the bottom line of the trousers.

    Stepping back from the right edge of the sheet by 20-25 scale cm, we raise the vertical upward by the amount DB = 97 cm, obtaining a side seam line. Point DB.
    Along the bottom line, we will set aside the width of the front panel to the left of the side seam, width = 22.5 cm.
    From the resulting point we raise the vertical line of the middle front DP = 96 cm. Point DP.
    Along the side seam line from point DB downwards we put aside the value BC = 27 cm, getting the seat line.
    From the bottom line up, we will set aside the value of BK = 43 cm, obtaining the knee line.
    Front wedge. From the line of the middle front along the seat line to the left, set aside the width of the front wedge ShPK = 5.2 cm, the resulting point will be designated ShPK (Fig. below)

    From the seat line up along the line of the middle front, set aside the value ShPK = 5.2 cm. Conjugate the resulting point with the ShPK point. An experienced cutter will draw the desired curvature with one stroke of a pencil. This experienced cutter can skip the next paragraph.

    Operation of connecting points for the front wedge.
    We place the legs of the compass at the points that need to be mated. With a radius of 5.2 cm, we will make notches R1 = 5.2 cm, R2 = 5.2 cm. Having obtained the intersection of two arcs, we will place the leg of a compass in it, and R3 = 5.2 cm we will connect the points. So R1=R2=R3=5.2 cm.

    Side dart. Along the side seam line from top to bottom, set aside the value BY=15 cm. Place the leg of a compass at the resulting point, and draw an arc to the left with a radius equal to BY=15 cm.

    On the front panel, set aside the calculated width of the side dart of 1.8 cm in an arc to the left. Connect the resulting point with point BY, obtaining the contour of the side dart, the total opening of which is 1.9 cm.
    Arrow position. To find the position of the arrow, it is necessary to measure the distance from the ShPK point to the side seam and divide it in half.

    Waistline. To find the waist line, draw a horizontal line from the DP point until it intersects with the arrow, then connect the intersection point with the end point of the side dart on the front panel.

    Front dart. Since this construction is not made for a specific model, but for the base, the dart can be replaced with a tuck and its location can be left at your discretion. RP=1.4 cm. In the future, when designing a dart, its length will be determined by the PU value. How to position the front dart at the waist in the proportions of the “golden ratio” can be seen in the construction of the skirt pattern.

    Crotch seam. From the seat height line to the knee line, narrow the trouser part by half the width of the front wedge, i.e. by 2.6 cm. From the knee line, lower the vertical until it intersects with the bottom line.

    Back detail.
    Drawing grid. It is advisable to construct the rear part on the contour of the front part. In this case, you already have a constructed hemline, knee line and seat height line.

    We place the back part so that the line of the middle back (middle back seam) coincides with the line of the middle front in the drawing. To do this, from the bottom line up along the line of the middle front, we will set aside the value of DZ = 97.5 cm.

    Along the bottom line from the line of the middle of the front, we will put the width of the rear panel to the right, ШЗД = 24.5 cm.
    From the resulting point, raise the vertical of the side seam at the back DB = 97 cm.
    The seat line of the rear part coincides with the seat line of the front part. BC=27 cm.
    Rear wedge. From the DZ line to the left along the seat line, draw an arc equal to the width of the rear wedge, ШЗК = 8.4 cm.

    Using a compass, measure the distance from the knee line on the front part to the ShPK point along the crotch seam, and, stepping back along the knee line from the crotch seam of the front part by 1.5 cm, place the leg of the compass at the resulting point and draw a second arc. At the intersection we obtain the ShZK point.

    Measure the distance from the seat line up to the end point of the DZ segment, and divide it in the proportions of the “golden section”, 27.5x0.38=10.5

    Pair for the rear wedge, point 10.5 with point ShZK.
    The legs of the compass are placed at the points that need to be mated. The pairing is performed with a larger radius. 10.5>8.4 cm, so the fillet radius is 10.5 cm. R1=10.5 cm and R2=10.5 cm
    Let's place the leg of the compass at the intersection of two arcs, R3=10.5 cm and perform the conjugation.

    Side dart. Along the line of the side seam of the back part from top to bottom, set aside the value BY = 15 cm, we get the rear BY point.

    Place the leg of the compass at the resulting point, and draw an arc to the left with a radius equal to BY = 15 cm.
    On the back panel, set aside in an arc to the left the calculated width of the side dart for the back panel, 0.1 cm.
    Connect the resulting point with point BY back.
    Waistline. To obtain a preliminary waist line, connect the DZ points and the end point of the side dart at the back.

    Increase one step. From point 10.5, draw a horizontal line to the right until it intersects with the side seam of the back piece, obtaining point O.

    The resulting trapezoid, the shaded part in the drawing, is rotated clockwise around point O by the amount of the increment per step.
    It is important to know! The increment per step is selected in the range from 1 (for tight-fitting youth trousers made of stretch fabric) to 3.5 cm, depending on the purpose of the trousers, the structure of the fabric and the model. An increase that is too small will create discomfort when moving; too much will create a pouch in the buttocks area, as they say, the “riot police” effect.
    In our case, the increase was chosen to be 3 cm. By drawing on tracing paper, you can cut the pattern along the intended line and actually rotate the part. When performing a scale construction, rotation can be performed using a compass.

    In some cases, it is necessary to smooth out the corner in the BY area, in the side seam.

    Middle back section. According to calculations, the size of the back dart is 5.2 cm. Two-thirds of this value, i.e. We will arrange 3.5 cm in the form of a dart on the back panel of the trousers, and we will remove one third in the middle back seam of 1.7 cm (see the construction in the upper right drawing).

    From the DZ point, set aside 1.7 cm to the right, and from the resulting point we draw a tangent to the pattern line of the rear wedge, obtaining the shape of the middle rear section.

    Connect the end of the dart with the end of the side dart on the back piece, obtaining the final position waist lines on the back panel of the trousers.

    Back dart. To determine the location of the remaining part of the back dart, you can proceed as follows:

    Measure the actual distance along the waistline of the back piece, i.e. distance from the side cut to the middle rear cut, divide the resulting value in half. The resulting point will be the middle of the dart. Set aside 1.8 cm from it to the left and to the right. Place the dart on the base perpendicular to the waist line. The top of the dart on the base is located at a distance of 3 = 15 cm, however, due to the fact that an increase was made by a step, the length of the dart can be reduced to an acceptable one. The dart should not be longer than the unfolded trapezoid. If necessary, you can split the dart and transfer it. See the Dart Problem for details.

    Step seam. The width of the leg of the back part relative to the front is 1-2 cm larger, depending on the figure and the freedom of fit of the model. For the classic model - 1.5 cm. Along the knee line from the contours of the front part, set aside 1 cm to the left and right and get the final look of the side and crotch seam. From the knee line, lower the verticals until they intersect with the bottom line.

    bottom line, depending on the fashion, it can be flat or beveled (i.e. the difference is from 0 to 1 cm). With a bevel of 1 cm, along the arrow line in front, put 0.5 cm up, and in the center of the bottom at the back - down 0.5 cm. We connect these points to the side line.

    Important! During the wet-heat treatment process allowances the middle cut must be pulled back. The allowances should take the shape of the part along the cut.

    how to sew men's trousers

    If you decide to sew men's trousers yourself, you need to take into account a lot of points, important and not so easy when sewing. This includes a zipper, pockets, trim on the bottom of the trousers, and a belt. Master classes collected on the pages of the large handicraft encyclopedia http://pro100hobbi.ru/ will help you master sewing. Having studied them, you will be able to sew trousers yourself, in different styles) Watch, read, create) Your men will appreciate your work)

    Ski trousers with padding polyester

    When sewing insulated trousers and creating a pattern. It is necessary to take into account that there will be a lining and synthetic padding inside. Therefore, if you have a trouser base pattern, then you need to slightly increase it in size. The master class will tell you how to sew sports ski pants for a man. Watch and create)

    Men's loose-fitting trousers

    These loose-fitting trousers are sewn with a zipper in the middle seam. They are light and very comfortable. The master class will tell you how to sew them yourself. Watch and try to sew the same ones yourself.

    Side pockets of classic men's trousers

    If you decide to sew men's classic trousers yourself, then every little detail is important when sewing. It is very important to sew the pockets in correctly. The master class will tell you how to do this. Watch the video and create)

    How to sew men's work trousers

    Work clothes are quite expensive, but you can try to sew them yourself. This master class tells you how to sew work trousers yourself. This is not difficult to do. Study the video and create)

    How to sew homemade men's sports trousers

    All men love sports trousers) They are comfortable to wear both at home and on the street - for example, to go outdoors in such trousers, or to go for a morning jog) To sew sports trousers yourself, you must first create a pattern. The master class will tell you how to do this. Explore and create)

    Pattern for men's classic trousers

    This master class provided the exact correct pattern for men's dress pants for size 170-100-88, where 170 is height, 100 is chest circumference (i.e. size 50), 88 is waist circumference. Once you've built it, you can change the size a little and get the pattern you need. See the article and build)


    Sewing. The pattern is the basis of the trousers using Italian technique. Description and video master class

    Don’t rush to leave the page thinking that you already know how to make a trouser pattern! Why? I'll explain now…
    How many steps do you need to take to get a pattern, right?
    That is why I went searching on the Internet and came across a surprisingly simple, but at the same time accurate Italian method.

    Construction of the trouser base pattern (description)

    In this article we will look at constructing a basic pattern for straight women's trousers using the Italian method. Its main difference from other methods is that the side seam of the product is shifted to the center of the back panel by 1 cm.
    The main advantage of basic patterns, as a rule, is the ability to use them as a basis for modeling trousers, shorts, breeches, etc. The advantages of the Italian cut are obvious for women with a large back curve. Due to their design, the trousers have an ideal fit in the waist and hip area.

    Initial data
    So, to create a pattern, we need initial data - measurements. It is advisable to have someone help you measure them. Please note that all measurements are taken in underwear and recorded in the table.

    Important: the initial data was taken as measurements of size 50 for women according to the Italian cutting system.
    For other sizes, see Standard measurements used in the Italian cutting system

    Measurement Designation Value
    Waist circumference FROM 84
    Hip circumference OB 110
    Thigh height WB 20.5
    Seat height BC 28
    Knee height VK 60.5
    Knee circumference OK 26
    Pants length DI 106

    Note: Wb is measured from the waist line to the horizontal line drawn along the most protruding points of the buttocks; Sun is measured in a sitting position - the distance from the bottom edge of the tape at the waist to the plane of the chair; In this case, VK is measured along the side from the waist to the middle of the kneecap.

    When constructing a basic trouser pattern, we take the necessary allowances for a loose fit:

    Increase Designation Value (CM)
    Increase in waist size Pr.T 1
    Increase in hips Pr.B 2

    When modeling, the increases can be changed within the following limits: for Pt from 0 to 1.5 cm, for Pb from 0.5 to 4 cm. The degree of fit of the product depends on the increases.

    Constructing a trouser pattern

    (Fig. 1) So, we recommend constructing a pattern drawing on graph paper (it is sold in rolls up to 1 m wide) or in special programs for creating patterns, such as RedCafe. (the favorite program of engineers, Autocad, is also suitable)
    Let's start by building the front panel of the trousers. In the upper right corner we put point A. Next, from t.A down we put two measurements: Bb - put t.B and Sun - put t.S.

    (Fig. 2) From point B to the left we lay a segment equal to ¼ (OB + Pr.b) - point B1 and to the right 0.5 cm - point B2

    (Fig. 3) From point C to the left we put the value of segment BB1, set point C1 and to the right - a segment equal to 1/20 OB - point C2

    (Fig. 4) We connect points C2, B2 and A with a smooth line, we get the middle seam.

    (Fig. 5) We return to point A. To the left we set aside ¼OT+3cm, put t.A1. Up from t.A1 we put 1 cm and put t.A2.

    (Fig. 6) Using a pattern, we connect points A2, B1, C1. If you don’t have a pattern at hand, draw a smooth line.

    (Fig. 7) Find the middle of the segment C1C2, set t.D. We draw a perpendicular to line C1C2 and at the intersection with line AA1 we set i.e.

    (Fig. From t.E down we put two measurements: Bk - set t.D1 and Lengthbr - t.F.

    (Fig. 9) From point D1 we lay equal segments to the right and left and put points D2 and D3. The segment D2D3 will be equal to the measure 1/2Ok.

    (Fig. 10) We take the bottom of the trouser pattern equal to the segment D2D3, put points F2 and F1, where point F is the middle of the segment F2F1.

    (Fig. 11) Connect points C2, D2, F2 and get an internal seam. We connect points C1, D3, F1 and get an external seam. Segment DD1F is the midpoint.

    (Fig. 13) Using a pattern we connect the points of the upper cut AE2 and A2E1.

    (Fig. 14) The pattern for the front of the trousers is ready. Let's move on to the back part.

    Construction of the back part of the trouser pattern:

    We carry out the construction on a ready-made drawing. We recommend picking up a colored pencil so as not to get lost in the lines. Let's start again with T.A. To the left of it we put aside a segment equal to ½ AU+2cm and put so.N. Draw a perpendicular up 2 cm from point H and place point H1.

    (Fig. 15) To the left of t.C we put aside a segment equal to 1/24 (1/2OB), put t.C3 and connect it with a straight line to t.H1.

    (Fig. 16) From point C3 we lay off a segment to the right equal to 1/10 About - point C4.

    (Fig. 17) Extend line AA1 from t.H to the left by ¼ From - 1 cm (this is the Italian offset of the side seam) + 2 cm (on the dart) and place t.H2. From it we draw a perpendicular up 1 cm and place point H3, which we connect to point H1.

    (Fig. 18) We enter reference point L, which is the intersection point of segments B1B2 and H1C3.

    (Fig. 19) From t.L to the left we draw a segment equal to ¼OB and place t.L1.
    We use a pattern to connect points H3, L1 - we get an external seam. We connect points L, C4 - we get the middle seam.

    (Fig. 20) The construction of the knee line and the bottom line on the pattern of the back part occurs as follows: from points D2, D3, F1, F2 in the direction of increase we put aside 1.5 cm and put points G, G1, F3, F4. We connect points L1, G, F3 and points C4, G1, F4 with smooth lines. We get the inner and outer seams.

    (Fig. 21) The dart on the back half of the trousers is built on line H1H3. t.M is the middle of this line. We put 1 cm from T.M on both sides and down parallel to line H1L 14 cm, we get points M1, M2 and N.

    (Fig. 22) Now the main thing is to check the pattern. The length on both seams (inner and outer) on the front and back panels should be the same. To do this, remove the pattern of the front part of the trousers onto tracing paper and place it on the pattern of the back part of the trousers, matching the edges of the internal seams. Next, we move the pattern until the line of the middle seam is aligned, and the back seam can be longer than the front. Then we follow the same principle, matching the edges of the outer seams and moving the pattern until the side points of the waist coincide.

    Congratulations! The pattern of women's trousers is ready!

    Source

    BASICS OF PANTS PATTERNS. Video master class!

    will be built in two stages, and will look something like this when finished:

    Front half - how to make a pattern video:

    And of course, the back half, which is built on the basis of the front half:

    You may also be interested

    In the comments to previous entries, readers have repeatedly asked to publish an article with patterns for men's clothing. Finally, I’m keeping my promise and sharing free patterns of two trouser models. You can download them under the sewing description.

    Pattern for men's trousers with a classic cut

    This option is well suited for both office work and everyday wear. It all depends on what fabric you choose. Material consumption is indicated for sizes 48, 50, 52 and 54. Length along the side seam from the waist line: 112.5 (114-115.5-117) cm

    What you will need:

    • 1.75 (1.80-1.85-1.90) m gabardine width. 150 cm
    • 35 cm (size 48/50), 40 cm (size 52/54) viscose lining in tone, wide. — 140 cm
    • 55 cm cotton fabric (lining) in tone, width. — 140 cm
    • 15 cm spacer adhesive material wide 140 cm
    • 1.30 m matching bias tape
    • 1 tone-on-tone zipper - 11 cm
    • 2 buttons, 15 mm in diameter.

    Pattern details for men's trousers

    Plan for gluing pattern sheets

    Copy the parts patterns. Draw parts E, F in the form of rectangles. For the lining, use the pattern of part 12, connected to part B, up to the marking line (approximately the knee line).

    • REAR HALF OF TROUSERS 11+11A
    • FRONT HALF OF TROUSERS 12+12A
    • RIGHT SIDE OF THE CLASP 13
    • BELT 14
    • BARREL + POCKET LINING 15
    • BACK POCKET LINING 16 = CUTTING OUT TO TURN OUT, ALIGNING THE FOLD OF THE TRAKING WITH THE BOTTOM LINE
    • CUT LEFT SIDE OF CLASP A = COPY PART 12 FROM THE PATTERN
    • BARREL OF THE FRONT HALF OF PANTS B = COPY PART 15 FROM THE PATTERN
    • FRONT POCKET TURNING C = COPY PART 15 FROM THE PATTERN
    • BACK POCKET VALVE D = COPY PART 16 FROM PATTERN
    • BACK POCKET LEATHER E = 13X5 CM
    • Belt Belts F = 57X2 CM

    Layout plan

    Lay out the patterns of the parts on the folded fabric. Place parts 13, A and F in a spread, see diagrams. Lay out the indicated patterns on a folded cotton cloth. Place part 13 on the canvas in a spread. On the folded viscose lining, lay out the pattern of part 12 (in the transverse direction), as shown in the diagram, aligning the lower cut of the part with the edge. Lay out parts 14 and E on the folded interlining material. Cut out the parts with an allowance of 1 cm. Add 5 cm to the hem of the bottom.

    How to sew men's trousers

    Duplicate the adhesive spacer. material of the specified parts.

    Finish the darts on the back halves of the trousers.

    On each back half of the trousers, make a welt pocket with a leaf with set-in ends: pin the inside along the pocket markings. back pocket lining side down. Iron the leaf along the wrong side. side inward. Sew it along the markings to the main part (right sides), directing the leaf with the fold down. Stitch the face valance on the opposite side of the pocket markings. side down so that between the lines there is a gap equal to the width of the leaflet in its finished form. Cut the main piece and the lining with diagonal notches to the ends of the stitches, fold the leaf upward, and the valance to the wrong side. side. Zigzag stitch the edges of the leaves onto the pocket lining. Fold back the lining, placing it over the valance. Straighten the valance and, following the markings, sew its lower edge onto the pocket lining in a zigzag pattern. Attach the lining to the valance stitching seam. Secure the ends of the pocket by stitching along the base of the seam allowance corners. Sew the edges of the pocket lining. Baste the back pocket lining. Tack the ends of the pockets from the faces. sides of the main part.

    Finish the front pockets: first sew a zigzag stitch and then a straight stitch on the flange (with the wrong side down) on the front. barrel/lining side. Likewise, stitch the facing of the front pocket onto the side/lining of the pocket. Finish the pocket as described in the Sewing Guide, sewing a finishing stitch along the edge, by hand, using small stitches.

    Baste the front halves of the trousers onto the lining of the front halves of the trousers so that the lining does not pull in the main parts. Overcast the sections of the main piece, joining them together with the lining with overcasting stitches.

    Sew the side and crotch sections of the trousers. Press the seams.

    Fold the trouser halves together. sides inward, align their top edges, crotch seams and, stepping back approximately 8 cm from these edges, sew the middle edges to the fastener.

    Fold the sill and sill backing together and grind the outer edges. Trim seam allowances to 5mm. On the front halves. trousers, sew a fastener with a hem on the men's side.

    Process six belt loops. Baste the belt loops, placing them outward. sides down, onto the top cut of the product. Topstitch the belt loops, sewing seams at intervals of 2 cm from the top edge.

    Trim, adding 1 cm to the seam allowance, the left side of the waistband at the front edge according to the markings. Edge the longitudinal internal sections of each part of the waistband with bias tape. Fold the waistband pieces in half lengthwise and stitch the ends. Trim the seam allowances to 5 mm, turn the parts of the belt right side out. side, straighten the ends and iron the pieces along the middle.


    Sew the waistband pieces from the faces. sides of the trouser halves. Press the seams onto the waistband. Stitch the middle edges of the trousers (in the open area) and the back edges. sections of belt parts. Press the seam to a length of approximately 15-20 cm. Stitch the longitudinal edge of the inner side of the waistband into a stitching seam.

    Fold the cross sections of the belt loops inward and sew the folds to the top edge of the belt.

    Press the hem of the trousers to the wrong side. side and sew with hidden stitches.

    Sew the loops along the markings on the slope and on the left end of the belt. Sew the buttons according to the eyelets.

    Pattern for men's casual trousers

    This model is in many ways similar to the previous one. The pattern in the document is located horizontally; it is recommended that when printing, select the “Poster” function and set the scale to 100% (see screenshot below).

    You will need:

    • main fabric for trousers;
    • cotton fabric for burlap pockets;
    • 1 m of lining fabric;

    Men's sports trousers occupy a special place in the wardrobe of those men who are actively involved in sports and cannot imagine themselves without physical activity.

    Sweatpants for men, depending on the type of sport and season, can be made from various materials. Thus, winter trousers are made of polyester, and fleece is used as insulation. For morning jogging, trousers made from materials containing cotton and wool, which have the ability to create maximum comfort, are better suited. For tourism, trousers made of water-repellent raincoat fabric are suitable.

    To ensure comfort, trousers should be designed for maximum freedom of movement.

    When constructing a pattern for men's sports trousers, the dimensional characteristic Half waist circumference (WW) is not taken into account, since the trousers are made with an elastic band at the waist and the length of the upper edge of the trousers must be no less than the value of Half hip circumference (SB). If the STp value exceeds the SB value, the pattern should be expanded at the waist.

    As an example, we will use the following dimensional characteristics of a male figure:

    Construction of the front half of men's sports trousers

    1. Draw a vertical line, mark point H at the bottom, from which move upward:

    Knee height: NK = 1/2 DN + 6.5 cm = 1/2 81 cm + 6.5 cm = 47 cm.

    Leg length: NN = DN measurement = 81 cm.

    Pants length: NT = DsB measurement = 106 cm.

    2. Hip line level: YB = 1/10 SB measurement + 3 cm = 1/10 50 cm + 3 cm = 8 cm.

    Divide the segment YaB in half, we get A.

    3. From points T, B, Z, K, H, draw horizontal lines to the right.

    4. Width of the front half of sports trousers at hip level: BB 1 = 1/2 SB measurement + 1.5 cm = 1/2 50 cm + 1.5 cm = 26.5 cm.

    5. Draw a vertical through point B 1, at the intersection with the horizontal lines we get T 1, I 1.

    6. Step width of the front half: B 1 B 2 = 1/10 SB measurement + 1 cm = 1/10 50 cm + 1 cm = 6 cm.

    7. The position of the front fold of the trousers is determined by dividing the segment BB 2 in half, we get B 3, through which to draw a vertical line from the waist to the bottom. At the intersection we get points K 1 and H 1.

    8. Width of sports trousers at the bottom level: H 1 H 2 = H 1 H 3 = 1/2 measurement WN – 0.5 cm = 1/2 22 cm – 0.5 cm = 10.5 cm.

    From points H 2, H 3, put 0.5 cm inward and draw upwards:

    • auxiliary side line to A;
    • auxiliary step line to B 2.

    9. Along the knee line, move 1 cm to the right from the auxiliary side line, obtaining point K2.

    Measure the segment K 2 K 1 and put the found value from K 1 to the right, we get K 3.

    10. To build midline the front part of the trousers from T 1 is set aside 0-1 cm to the left, depending on the body type, we get T 2.

    From Z 1 up, put aside 1/2 of the segment Z 1 Z 2, we get point A 1, which is connected by a straight line to Z 2.

    Draw a middle line through T 2, B 1, Z 2.

    11. Design the side and step sections of the front of the trousers, and also draw the top section of the trousers in accordance with the drawing.

    Construction of the back half of men's sports trousers

    The design of the back half of men's sports trousers is carried out on the front drawing.

    1. Extension at the level of the knee and bottom: K 2 K 4 = K 3 K 5 = 1 cm, H 2 H 4 = H 3 H 5 = 1 cm.

    Using the resulting points, draw side and step sections parallel to similar sections of the front of the trousers.

    2. From B, set aside 2 cm to the left, we get B 4.

    From B 4, set the width of the back of the trousers to the right: B 4 B 5 = 1/2 SB measurements + 4 cm = 1/2 50 cm + 4 cm = 29 cm.

    3. Step width of the back of the trousers: B 5 B 6 = 1/5 SB measurements + 3-4 cm = 1/5 50 cm + 3-4 cm = 13.5 cm.

    4. To determine the angle of inclination of the upper section from I, set aside 2 cm upward, we obtain A 2.

    Connect straight points A 2, B 5 and draw a perpendicular upward from B 5.

    5. To build step cut connect the back of the trousers to K 5 with B 6.

    Measure the segment K 3 I 2 on the front of the trousers and set aside the found value minus the amount of stretching of the material equal to 0.7 cm from K 5 upwards, we get I 3.

    K 5 I 3 = K 3 I 2 - 0.7 cm.

    Make a step cut with a smooth concave curve.

    6. Connect straight line K 4 with B 4 and extend it upward.

    Measure the length of the side cut of the front of the trousers from K 2 to T and set aside the found value from K 4 up in a straight line, we get T 3.

    7. Measure the distance from T 3 to K 1 and transfer the resulting value plus 1.5 cm from K 1 up to the intersection with the center line of the rear part, we get T 4.

    K 1 T 4 = K 1 T 3 + 1.5 cm.

    8. Checkout midline through T 4, B 5, I 3.

    9. Through T 3, T 4, draw along the straight line of the waist of the back of the sports trousers.

    Drawing control

    Measure the length of the top cut of the front and back of the trousers, sum up the resulting values ​​and subtract the size of the SB measurement.

    TT 2 + T 3 T 4 - measurement SB = 52.5 cm - 50 cm = 2.5 cm (increase for freedom of movement).

    To ensure that trousers can be easily put on, the increase in freedom of movement should not be less than 2 cm.

    Sweatpants

    Draw a one-piece belt 4 cm wide parallel to the waist. A drawstring for the cord is made in the middle of the belt. The cord is threaded through pre-installed eyelets.

    Draw lines for the pocket entry and pocket lining on the front and back of the trousers according to the drawing.

    The trousers are made with a zipper at the bottom of the side seam. The zipper is offset 1 cm towards the front of the trousers. Draw the fastener allowances in accordance with the drawing.

    A finishing stitch is laid along the front fold of the trousers.

    These trousers are quite narrow along the entire length, so it is advisable to make them from elastic materials.

    Jogging pants

    The trousers are designed with elastic cuffs, so the trousers are shortened by 2cm at the hem: 4cm (cuff width) minus 2cm (pants slouch).

    The front and back parts of the trousers should be expanded in accordance with the drawing, while in order to harmoniously match the lines and expand the details in the hip area, the front and back parts should be expanded in the step area by 1 cm.

    6 cm above and below the knee of the front of the trousers, draw cut lines to form folds.

    To create a side panel 5 cm wide, narrow the front and back parts of the trousers along the side cut by 2.5 cm each.

    Spread the front part of the trousers along each cut line in the knee area by 3 cm and mark the folds from the side and step cuts.

    Draw seam lines along the knee line of the back of the trousers, place 1.5 cm up and down along the back fold of the trousers and draw concave seam lines.

    On the front of the trousers, draw a pocket with a leaf and an inclined relief. On the back of the trousers, draw a yoke, a placket above the pocket entrance, a pocket entrance and a pocket lining.

    Draw the details of the side insert, cuff and waistband in accordance with the drawing.

    The trousers are made with button fastening on the insert. On the side insert and cuff, mark the location of the buttons; on the back of the trousers, draw an allowance for the bottom side of the vents, 4 cm wide.

    These trousers are wide enough so they can be made from non-stretch materials.

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