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Knives for skinning cattle. Hunting knives for skinning. Features of the skinning process and when a skinning knife is useful

Knives for skinning cattle. Hunting knives for skinning. Features of the skinning process and when a skinning knife is useful

02.11.2023

However, what to do, you need to get dirty and divide the meat. What a modern hunter usually does is to chop the carcass into pieces with an ax along with the skin, and that’s the cutting for you.

Nowadays, would-be hunters mostly butcher wild boar and elk, especially in winter. However, this is not all very good, and the skin is a very important trophy, since many hunters mainly hunt for it. And here, whether you want it or not, you have to become a skinner. If you like to ride, as they say, you’ll have to drag the carcass to the base without a sled, or, nevertheless, remove the skin and cut the carcass into pieces on the spot.

No, You can, of course, delegate this work to your family, motivating that I, supposedly, got the beast, and what you do with it is your concern. But transporting a whole carcass home is sometimes difficult for car owners, and in a city apartment you can’t especially bother with cutting up a carcass.

So you either have to do it in the garage or at the base. And then as it turns out - you just need meat, we remove the skin as necessary, and if you need the skin as well, then it doesn’t matter - either you married well, or you take off the skin yourself. And what is good and what is bad is different for everyone.

Those who are richer can entrust this matter to the rangers for a certain amount of money., and if you go hunting yourself, and you don’t want to spend extra money, then again you’re in a situation where you’ll have to work hard yourself.

The Internet is full of those who want to laugh at those who don’t know how to skin or are just learning how to do it, so there’s no need to know how to do it - there are plenty of photographs. All that remains is to find out how to do it correctly. “Country man must survey” is true if you are a country man. But it’s not worth skinning like this.

Shooting and processing of animal skins for the production of hunting trophies

There are quite a few options for shooting, depending on the type of animal and what you plan to do.

Predators and rodents

If, for example, you have caught a large predator (a bear) and do not know whether a carpet or stuffed animal will be made from it, then the option of filming the skin “in layers” is suitable. If you want to make a stuffed animal standing on its hind legs, then the option of shooting the skin “from the back” is more suitable. For other types of stuffed bear, both options are suitable.

If you have caught a medium-sized predator (wolf, lynx), then to make a carpet you need to remove the skin “flat on”, and for making a stuffed animal, shooting “flat”, “from the back”, or “stocking” is suitable.

For skinning small predators (fox, raccoon, badger, wolverine, polecat, marten, etc.), as well as for shooting rodents (babybak, squirrel, beaver, hare), it is better to use the “stocking” shooting option, as it is the most universal . For skinning a porcupine, only the “flat” option is suitable.

The removal of skins for making a trophy head from predatory animals will be discussed separately.

Ungulates

For ungulates, there are four main options: shooting the skin to make a trophy head, shooting “from the back” - for making a whole stuffed animal from small and medium-sized ungulates, “flat” - for making a stuffed animal from a wild boar, and a combined shooting option - for a whole stuffed animal from large ungulates .

Shooting the skin "layer"

This method is used, as a rule, for skinning large predators, although it is also applicable for other animals, especially if you intend to make a “carpet” from your trophy.

To ensure that the shooting process does not take a lot of time and effort, you need to have a well-sharpened tool on hand and prepare a place to work.

The sooner you start removing the hide after harvesting, the better your chances of keeping the hide in perfect condition. Within a few hours after shooting, and in the summer or when shooting an animal during or immediately after feeding, the skin begins to deteriorate. In the armpit and groin areas, when the animal lies on its side, its body cools down very slowly, and the skin begins to rot. Due to the ongoing fermentation process, heat and gases are released in the animal's stomach and intestines, causing the belly to swell and the belly skin to turn green. In such places, the fur almost always comes out during the dressing of the skin, and in some cases even before dressing.

Of course, during hunting it is not always possible to skin an animal immediately after shooting. However, it is important to remember that your trophy will only look great if you try to process and preserve it at all stages of working with it, adhering to the tips outlined in this article.

If you do not have the opportunity to remove the skin immediately after harvesting the trophy, try to protect your prey as much as possible from exposure to heat and moisture.

Do not leave the animal lying in the sun. Do not place it on cellophane film - without access to oxygen, the skin will begin to rot, not to mention that this film will not allow the carcass to cool. You can place the trophy on any natural surface - on the ground (but not on wet or heated by the sun), dry grass, boards (except pine - the resin greatly stains the fur), hay or several layers of cotton fabric, matting or canvas.

The main thing is that the surface on which your trophy lies is as clean, dry and not heated as possible. It is better if the animal lies in a cool, well-ventilated, shaded place. During the hunt, most likely, it will not be possible to comply with these conditions, and then everything will depend on how quickly you can process the trophy.

To avoid damage to the skin in the armpit and groin areas, you need to secure the animal’s paws at a distance from the body and from each other, for example, by stretching them on ropes. It's even better if the entire animal is suspended in the air. It is also important to place the limbs and head of the captured trophy, not pressed against the body, for the reason that when rigor mortis sets in, it is quite problematic to move the limbs apart. The animal's muscles can become so stiff that often the bones of the limbs break - as a result, you can not only pierce the skin with the sharp edges of a broken bone, but also injure yourself.

But even if you take all of the above measures, it is best to start filming as early as possible.

When starting to remove the skin, try to position the animal's body so that it is convenient for you to work with it. The less tired you are when processing your trophy, the better quality your work will be. If you do not have an assistant, secure the animal's paws by stretching them to the sides and tying them with a rope (Fig. 1).

This way, you will ensure that when working with the skin you will have a minimum number of hard-to-reach places for shooting.

Start shooting by cutting the skin on the sternum (Fig. 2). To do this, push the fur to the sides until the skin appears. Make an incision that cuts through the skin, but not deeper, otherwise blood may flow, which will stain the fur and interfere with further work. Then insert the tip of the knife under the skin with the blade facing up and cut the skin towards the animal's head using a knife motion from the inside out, constantly straightening the fur to the sides so as not to cut it off. Try to make the cut as even as possible. The cut needs to be completed between the bases of the jaws, at ear level.

During filming, the animal's fur fluffs up at the edges of the cut and becomes stained with blood. As a result, a number of problems arise. Fur stuck to the meat makes it difficult to see the edges of the cuts clearly. If it is not moved to the side, there is a risk of continuing the cut in the wrong place where it is necessary. Or the fur gets under the knife and you cut it off, which affects the appearance of the trophy.

All this can be avoided by wetting the fur along the edges of the cut with salt water (100 g of table salt per 1 liter of water, preferably cooled boiled water). It is more convenient to do this with a plastic bottle with a spray, although a brush, a piece of cotton fabric or foam rubber may be suitable.

Next, lift the skin to the sides, pulling back the edges and inserting your hand under the skin (in many freshly hunted animals, the skin is easily separated from the meat almost without the help of a knife). Before continuing the cut from the sternum to the abdomen, try to separate the skin from the walls of the abdominal cavity with your hands so as not to accidentally cut the animal's belly. Having brought the incision almost to the anus, go around it to one side and continue the incision to the tip of the tail. Also, on one side, go around the genital organ and scrotum. Never leave fur covering the animal's genitals on the carcass.

Remove the tail using a knife. If the animal’s tail can be easily removed with a “stocking” (in animals such as fox, marten, etc.), then it is more convenient to remove it at the last moment, when the skin has been removed from the entire animal, but before removing the head, by pinching the skin with your fingers and pulling out the vertebrae . But after the tail is removed in this way, be sure to open it with a knife from the underside to the very tip. Try to ensure that the cut comes strictly from the bottom. This is necessary in order to subsequently thoroughly salt, degrease and flesh the tail. It is unlikely that you want to have a trophy with a mangy tail.

On the hind limbs, start the incision from a point located a few centimeters from the anus closer to the abdomen (between the anus and scrotum in males). Next, make the incision to the popliteal cavity along the inner side of the thigh.

If you are going to make a carpet from the skin, then make the cut to the center of the heel and then along the bottom of the foot to the skin pad on the animal’s paw. Cut the pillow in the middle almost to the toes and then make cuts to the sides towards the sides of the paw. In this case, the incisions should be made between the pads of the toes and the ball of the foot along the hairline (Fig. 3).

If you intend to make a stuffed animal out of this animal, then make the cut from the knee area not to the heel, but to a point located between the heel and ankle, on the inside of the paw, but not along the cavity, but closer to the heel. Do not cut the pad on the foot, but go around it along the inside of the paw, leaving a fur edging on the pad about 1 cm wide. And then between the pad of the foot and the pads of the toes along the hairline of the skin to the outside of the paw (Fig. 4).

On the forelimbs, start the incisions from the middle between the top of the shoulder and the armpit. Then make a cut along the inside of the paw, closer to the elbow, then to the middle of the hand pad.

The skin on the hand is cut according to the same principle as on the feet, depending on what you want to make from the animal skin (Fig. 3 and Fig. 4).

After this, you need to remove the skin from the animal's paws. To do this, pull back the edge of the skin and use a knife to separate the skin from the meat, starting from where the longitudinal cut (from head to tail) meets the cuts on the limbs. Then remove the skin from the paws on both sides of the cut. Having separated one of the paws from the skin, bend the paw at the joint. Now, fixing the paw in the joint area and pulling back the skin, you get to the fingers.

Remove the fingers from the skin to the last joint, leaving in the skin only the last phalanx of the finger on which the claw is located (Fig. 5). The pads on the fingers are not cut.

By removing two paws, for example the left front and back, you remove the skin from the back of the animal. Now it will be easier to remove the remaining two limbs.

Lastly, remove the skin from the animal's head. This is one of the most difficult and responsible moments. The skin is removed from the head using a “stocking”. Having reached the base of the ears, separate the ear from the skull, cutting with a knife closer to the skull so that the entire ear cartilage remains on the skin. Next, continue to remove the skin with a “stocking”, cutting with a knife as close to the skull as possible, especially in the eye area, where the skin is closest to the bone. In order for the eyelids to remain intact, you need to pull the skin away from the skull and, as soon as the back of the eye socket is exposed, cut the skin not along the surface of the skull, but by pointing the tip of the knife inside the eye socket. When the eyeball appears, pull back the skin of the eyelid and trim it near the eyeball itself. If everything is done correctly, you will get a cut through which the inner surface of the eyelids will be visible. Insert your finger into the hole formed and, pulling the skin away from the eye, cut close to the eyeball. Once the eyelids are separated from the skull, do not rush to remove quickly. The lacrimal gland is located in the corner of the eye. The skin in this place is very thin and is attached close to the bone, so you need to separate it, cutting almost along the bone. At the same time, you should not press hard on the knife, scratching the skull, if you later expect to make a trophy from the animal’s skull.

Having separated the skin down to the molars, cut it closer to the skull so that the teeth become visible in the cut.

Next, separate the lips, trimming them as close to the skull as possible. First, remove the lower lip, then, lifting the skin almost to the nostrils, separate the cartilage of the nose from the skull, leaving it on the skin of the animal. As a result, the entire soft part of the chin, lower and upper lips, as well as the nose, along with the nasal cartilage, must be separated from the skull. With a certain skill, you will be able to remove the skin from the skull in such a way that there will be a minimum of “cuts” of meat left on it. But this skill is acquired with extensive experience in high-quality processing of raw materials, as a result of which you will learn to visually and tactfully determine that thin boundary between the skin itself and the muscle or subcutaneous fat layers, along which (ideally) the cut should pass.

While the experience is not so great, it is easier when shooting to leave more cuts on the skin, which can later be removed by flaying, but at the same time avoid numerous cuts to the skin.

Shooting the skin from the back

This method of shooting is a little more labor-intensive than the previous one, but it ultimately has a very significant effect on the quality of the stuffed animal.

Make the main incision along the back, from the base of the tail, slightly stepping back from the center line of the back in any direction; Trying to make the cut as even as possible, move along the spine to the head, ending at the back of the animal's head.

Then return to the beginning of the incision and continue from the side of the tail and anus towards the abdomen, ending 5-7 cm after the anus.

Make the cuts on the hind legs in exactly the same way as when shooting “in a layer”, going around the paw pads along the inside, 1 cm from the border of the pad.

Start making cuts on the front legs just above the elbow along the inside of the shoulder and then along the inside of the forearm, similar to the previous shooting option.

After this, you can begin skinning, taking special care in the armpit and groin areas, where it is quite easy to mistake the folds of fat and skin and cut the skin.

Remove the skin from the shoulders with a “stocking”, otherwise the shooting is practically no different from the previous method.

If the animal has developed rigor mortis or you do not have an assistant, or the trophy is very large and removing the front paws with a “stocking” is difficult, then it is quite acceptable to continue making cuts on the front paws from the elbow along the lower edge of the shoulder blade to the central cut on the back, actually removing the skin “in a layer” ", but from the back.

Shooting the skin with a “stocking”

Make the main cut from one foot to the other, from the outer edge between the pads of the toes and the pad of the paw to the inner. Then, going around the inside of the paw pad, to the center of the heel, to the popliteal cavity and, moving to the second paw between the tail and the anus, repeat everything in the reverse order.

On the front legs, make the cuts in the same way as when shooting “from the back,” from the elbow to the hand.

Next, remove the skin from the feet and toes of the animal's hind legs. Now you can hang the carcass by the hind legs by threading the rope through the puncture between the ankle and the Achilles vein. This will greatly facilitate your further work on removing the skin.

With this option, after you free the hind legs and tail of the animal, the skin from the carcass is removed quite easily. In fact, you can simply pull it off the carcass by grasping the edges of the skin and pulling it down to the armpits. Try not to overdo it. If the skin is difficult to pull off, it is better not to risk it, but to gradually remove it from the carcass, lifting it in a circle with a knife.

A. Salov

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Enduring the hardships and vagaries of nature, the hunter spends day after day achieving his goal - to catch the animal. And when the work of participants in a collective hunt, many kilometers of a forest road or endless hours of sitting in a storage shed are rewarded with success, the eternal question arises: “What to do?” The trophy has been obtained, but it needs to be properly processed and preserved. If the shot animal is not large, and you have the opportunity to transfer it to a specialist taxidermist in the next few hours, then this is exactly what you should do. When the size of the animal does not allow it to be transported freely, it is necessary to remove the skin. As a rule, during commercial hunts there is a special person - Skinner, whose responsibilities include processing and conservation of your trophy. However, such a service is only of high quality in hunting areas in regions where a large number of hunts are carried out with the participation of foreign hunters, for example in Kamchatka. In our country, the role of skinner is often performed by a “pro” of huntsmen or sympathizers. The result of their work is cut off eyelids, lips, torn ears, improperly salted and subsequently peeling areas, as well as other, sometimes irreparable, defects. Therefore, never use the services of people you are not confident in. Below we will try to explain how to deliver the trophy safely, and some of the basics of the initial processing of the trophy for making a taxidermy product.

1.Large mammals: Of course, we will talk about the bear, the largest predator in the Urals. The specificity is that the hunt for this animal begins quite early, in the summer, when the average daily temperature is quite high. In such conditions, proper preservation is especially important. First you need to decide what product you want to see from the animal you hunted. If it’s a stuffed animal, then first of all try to take measurements, at least two indicated in the figure (1. length of the body from the tip of the nose to the base of the tail, 2. from the inner corner of the eye to the tip of the nose.). If the animal is not large, then you can remove the skin using the cut pattern for making a stuffed animal, with this method the main cut runs along the back, above the tail it is divided into two cuts running along the caudal (back) side of the hind legs. Two auxiliary incisions are also made on the forelimbs running from the elbow to the hand along the inside. If necessary, these incisions can be extended above the elbow. We recommend this method of shooting for subsequent production of a stuffed animal, but it is quite labor-intensive, especially when a large bear is caught. Therefore, you can remove the skin in a layer. There is no need to cut the genitals of the animal, making the main incision along the midline of the abdomen, when the skin is removed obviously for a stuffed animal; for the subsequent making of a carpet, the integrity of the genitals does not matter.

If in the near future it is possible to deliver the removed skin to a taxidermist, then the head, hands of the front legs and feet of the hind legs can be left uncovered. In cold weather (<+5о) время безопасного хранения шкуры в таком виде около суток. В теплую (+18о) не более 3-5 часов. Не стоит солить такие шкуры, так как из оставшихся лап и головы будет излишний рассол, лучше обильно проложите шкуру пихтовым лапником. Ни в коем случае не укладывайте шкуру сразу в полиэтиленовый мешок, сначала в тканевый, а потом в полиэтиленовый. Ткань, впитывая влагу и кровь, предотвратит быстрое запревание эпидермиса, а полиэтилен сохранит салон вашего автомобиля.

When it is not possible to quickly deliver the skin to a taxidermist, it is necessary to remove the hands, feet and head, and salt the skin. Here you need to be especially careful, if your skinner has a Crocodile Dundee knife in his hands, then this does not bode well; you need a more modest tool. A lanceolate, sharp knife, with a comfortable handle, and a blade length of about 12 centimeters, can be easily purchased at a hunting store. Have one of your own, it will come in handy.

On the hands and feet, an incision is made along the border of the callus, the fingers are carefully turned one after the other and separated from the skin along the joint between the last and penultimate phalanx. Thus, the last phalanx along with the claw remains on the skin, and so on for all twenty fingers. You must be careful during this operation, as you can easily cut the skin in the sinuses between the fingers.

When skinning a head, you need to pay attention to the following aspects. Firstly, the ears - you need to separate the ear cartilage from the skull as close to the skull as possible, and secondly, you must try not to cut the eyelids, they should remain on the skin. Thirdly, the lips - they also need to be left on the skin. And lastly, the nose - the nasal cartilage of a bear is large enough to rot. The proposed figure shows the place where the “meat skull” is separated from the skin; when cutting the cartilage, be careful not to cut off the nose itself.

After the skull is separated, it is necessary to finish processing the head skin. It is necessary to turn out the ear cartilages by carefully separating them from the skin of the back of the ear; a correctly turned ear has one hole - in the cartilage, in the place where it was separated from the skull (see picture). Carefully cut and turn out the mucous membranes of the lips and eyelids.

Afterwards the skin must be salted. For salting, coarse salt that does not contain iodine is suitable; the amount of salt should be quite large. For example, an average bear with a body length of 160 cm requires at least seven kilograms of salt. The skin should be spread with the skin side up and salted over the entire surface, rubbing the salt into the skin. Fingers and hands are filled with salt, and salt is also poured into the ears that are turned back. Pay attention to the edges of the cut; they may turn under and the salt will not get there.

A properly removed, processed and salted skin gives you some guarantee of its safety. However, try to transfer the skin to a taxidermist as quickly as possible, shifting the worries and responsibility for further safety to him. Don’t wait until the skin reminds you of itself with an unpleasant smell in the garage or on the balcony.

2. Medium and small sized mammals: To make a carpet from a wolf, wild boar, or lynx, a cut pattern similar to the pattern for skinning a bear is suitable. The other requirements for processing and preservation described above also remain the same (the paws must be removed to the last phalanx, the ear cartilages must be turned out, the eyelids must be kept on the skin, the mucous membranes of the lips must be opened, etc.). The procedure for removing the skin from the back onto a stuffed animal is somewhat different. The main cut is not connected to the auxiliary cuts on the hind legs, and the cuts themselves on the hind legs are much smaller.

Hunting for wolves, wild boars and lynx is carried out in the cold season. Therefore, the head and lower parts of the limbs can be left in the skin, simply by freezing it. Such skins do not need to be salted. When there is a strong minus outside (<-20o), рысь или не крупного волка можно заморозить целиком, но учтите, не следует хранить добытый трофей в таком виде, заморозка лишь позволит не мараться в крови, и доставить зверя, в течение ближайших полутора - двух суток, таксидермисту.

It is also advisable to bring whole foxes, beavers, raccoon dogs and smaller animals to the taxidermist. If you do not have the opportunity to do this, or you yourself want to practice skinning, you can only note that to make a stuffed animal, the skin from a fox, raccoon dog is removed in the same way as from a wolf, and from beavers, martens, squirrels through one cut, running along the spine from the base of the tail to the middle of the back (see picture).

3.Trophy heads: In addition to carpets and stuffed animals, trophy heads are also made from animal skins, which decorate the walls of hunting interiors. In modern taxidermy, the concept of a trophy head means a full-fledged product in which the animal is exhibited from the tip of the nose to the shoulder girdle. Severed heads resting their ears against the wall are not an aesthetically pleasing sight. And to avoid this, you need to leave the right amount of skin behind your head. The cutting diagram shown in the figure (behind the forelimbs) is suitable for making a trophy head from any type of animal. These cuts (along the back side of the skin with subsequent bifurcation towards the base of the horns) are necessary only for removing the skin from the heads of horned animals. Roe deer are often skinned with a “stocking”; during such shooting, you can simply separate the head from the carcass, leaving it in the skin. Then you will not need to remove the skin from the head by making the indicated cut, but only cut off the required amount of skin behind the head (hereinafter referred to as the shoulder blades). You can leave the head uncovered, with a large supply of skin, on an elk or wild boar. The main thing is that it is cool, and the transfer of the material (skin) to the taxidermist is quick.

Birds: Birds, like small mammals, are best handed over to a taxidermist whole. One of the features of bird conservation is their feather cover. Feathers are very easy to damage. Therefore, if you decide to deliver a bird for making a taxidermy product, then you don’t need to throw it haphazardly into a bag, then into the trunk, and put a bunch of things on top. The result of such transportation will be a kind of lump of blood and feathers with broken and bent wings and tail.

After you have caught the bird, inspect it for any major damage. If not, then the best way to transport it would be to put cotton wool or toilet paper in the beak and wrap the beak, head and neck with toilet paper. Tuck the wrapped neck and head under the wing, place several layers of paper under the second wing, press the wings to the body, fold the tail, wrap the entire bird in paper (for example, newspaper), being careful not to wrinkle the tail and ends of the wings. The wrapped bird can be placed in a fairly large plastic bag, with the tail facing up. For better preservation, it’s a good idea to add a few fir branches to the same bag; the phytoncides they contain inhibit bacteria that cause rotting. It is better to store poultry packaged in this way in a cool place. If it’s warm outside and your car is parked in the sun, you don’t need to keep the hunted game in a heated cabin. Duck, hazel grouse or grouse packed and arranged with fir can lie for a day in a shady place at an air temperature of +150C. It is also necessary to take into account the degree of damage to the bird; if there are bleeding injuries, they must be covered by inserting a piece of cotton wool into the wound or covering it with toilet paper. Game with a damaged belly is stored for a shorter period of time. During the cold season, hunted birds can be frozen by pre-packaging them. In any case, transfer the obtained trophy to the taxidermist as quickly as possible.

Often hunters, while on the hunting grounds, encounter birds of prey and owls and try to kill them. Remember - these are very small species, many of them are in the Red Book. During the cold season, owls and hawks gather near roads and populated areas in search of mice, rats, pigeons and jackdaws. This creates a misleading impression of their numbers. Every time you aim at an owl, remember that our children have a real chance in the near future to hear their voice only on CDs and see them on DVDs.

Fish: Both whole stuffed fish and trophy heads are made from fish; to make a stuffed fish, it is better to deliver the whole fish to the taxidermist, while trying not to damage the fins. To do this, press the dorsal, lateral, pectoral and anal fins to the body, and place a lining made of thick cardboard or fiberboard along the folded caudal fin. Wrap all fish in cling film. If it is not possible to do this, pack the fish in any other available way, just take care of the safety of the fins, for example, the fish can be wrapped in a regular bag, placing a straight stick of greater length along its body. If you intend to travel far for a trophy, from where delivery of a whole fish in a short time will be impossible, then consult with a taxidermist on how best to deliver the trophy. To make a fish head, you need a supply of skin behind the head. The head must be cut off along the indicated line without damaging the fins. If it is not possible to freeze the head or quickly give it to a taxidermist, you need to remove the insides and muscles from the cut side, leaving the esophagus and gills. To store the head for four to five days, carefully salt the part freed from the entrails and muscles, fill the mouth and the spaces under the gill covers with salt, then pour the salt into a bag and put the head there. The head preserved in this way should be stored in the coolest place available, and handed over to a taxidermist as soon as possible.

HOW TO STORE A HIDE - FROM HISTORICAL SOURCES

No matter how well the skin is removed, it can soon deteriorate when lying around if special measures are not taken to store it.

Freshly skinned skin is called steam room For a tanner, there is no better hide than a steaming one, especially if it is not stained with blood and dirt. But it is rarely possible to immediately send the skin to a factory or tan it yourself. And when lying there, the steamed skin quickly deteriorates. At first it shrinks, wrinkles, and becomes horny. Then she starts to warm up. Her hair is falling off. In the end she completely rots. Therefore, something has to be done to ensure that the skin is preserved without damage.

The best thing is to salt the skin, and such wet-salty skins are considered the most expensive. Although you need to buy salt for salting, you will then earn more money for the skin and more than cover the money you paid for the salt.

Before salting the skin, you need to clean it thoroughly. Where the cattle are poorly looked after and kept in the mud, there is often a lot of manure on the skin that sticks to the wool, the so-called bulk. The pile spoils the hide and prevents the tanner from working. We must take care that it is not present on live cattle, and it is better to keep the cattle in the stable. If the peeled skin turns out to be in bulk, then before salting you should try to remove it. To do this, it is convenient to place the skin on a block, and where there is none, then on an inclined board. The pile is carefully upholstered with a wooden spatula or a blunt scraper, but certainly in such a way as not to scratch or tear the fresh skin. If the pile has stuck so tightly that it cannot be knocked off, then you need to sprinkle salt over the fur in those places on the skin where the pile remains.

Cleaned skin it should be salted like this.

The salt is taken fine, not buzun. For each skin, from 8 pounds per pound of skin weight is taken in winter and up to 12 pounds in summer. For thin skins, use less salt, and for thick skins, more salt, but it is unreasonable to take less than what is said here. You'll spare a penny's worth of salt, but you'll waste the skin worth rubles. Therefore, for a large bull hide, you will have to take from 14 to 16 pounds in winter, and from 20 to 25 pounds of salt in summer; a cow hide will cost 8-12 pounds in winter, and 12-15 pounds in summer.

The skin is placed in a clean place on a spread, with the wool on the ground or floor. It is good to put some kind of lining underneath the skin so that the phlegm can drain from it. The entire skin is evenly sprinkled with salt from the inside: it is useful to rub the salt with your hand so that it sticks well to the skin. If the skin is properly salted, then after three days solid salt will be visible on it. If all its salt has been absorbed, then you need to add fresh salt. When the entire skin is evenly salted, bend the head and part of the skin at the tail inward, as well as the floors at the edges. Then the head is sprinkled with salt and all the thick parts are also sprinkled with salt along the coat.

Now they put the entire skin into a bundle. It must be folded according to the rules. At first the fourth part of the skin is folded inwards, starting from the head, then the right and left flaps are folded towards the middle, then the entire skin is folded along the ridge, then rolled up, starting from the head, into a bundle and tied with a tail or twine.

After five days, the package is dismantled. The sputum is allowed to drain, lightly salted and rolled up again as the first time. If everything is done according to the rules, the skin will last a long time and will not dry out.

When, say, a collective collects a lot of skins, it can be salted in riots or piles.

The first skin is salted on the floor on a spread, as just described. Then the entire skin is folded around so that the head, paws and flanks lie inside, and the entire skin around becomes like a saucer. All bent parts are sprinkled with salt along the fur, the head is especially carefully salted. Then they place the second skin so that the head does not rest on the head of the first skin, but next to it. Everything is done as with the first skin. On the second one place the third, fourth, fifth and so on in the same way, salting everything well each time. The heads will lie in a circle, one after the other. Up to two hundred skins can be folded into such a riot. The brine in the riot should not flow to one side, which can happen if the skins are not distributed correctly.

If the skin was* poorly salted, then it will prohibit. When the skin begins to rot, the first thing that will begin to come off is hair. From time to time you need to tug your hair with your fingers. On a healthy skin, the hair sits tightly, but on a damaged skin it is easily torn out.

Damaged hide is not suitable for a tanner.

If the skin begins to grow hair, it can quickly rot. You can improve the situation if you take the skins apart and salt them again. You need to carefully monitor your hair so as not to be late with over-salting.

Wet-salted skins are the best, but sometimes it is difficult to get enough salt. Then you can store the skins by drying them.

Drying skins done in the warm season.

The skin removed from the animal is hung on a pole with the wool inward along the ridge.

The pole is hung somewhere under a canopy or in a barn, in the shade. You should never start drying a hide directly in the sun because sun drying will ruin the fresh raw hide. This makes it horny, and then easily cracks and breaks. Only an almost completely dried skin can be dried in the sun, and even then not in the summer, but when the sun is not so hot. Many skins are spoiled by improper drying in the villages.

You cannot dry the skins by spreading them on the ground; the only correct way is to dry them in the shade so that there is air on all sides. You can dry cow and horse hides. They almost always dry milk, sheepskin, goatskin and foals. They can be dried in the hut in winter.

However, it is much better to salt the corn, as the Germans and Americans do, because then much better leather can be made from it.

During drying, the skin on the paws and cheeks of the muzzle shrinks. To prevent this from happening, the paws and cheeks are straightened by inserting wood chips or splinters. Where the skin is adjacent to the pole, it is better to make linings so that air gets in there and the skin does not rest along the ridge.

It happens that the entire skin is already dry, but the head and thicker parts are not yet dry. Then you can expose the skin to the sun for a short time, covering it with matting, so that only the head dries openly in the sun.

In winter it is difficult to dry skins, and there is nowhere to dry them. They are therefore often frozen, but this should only be done as a last resort, when salting cannot be established in any way. Very bad lumpy frozen skins, frozen right in the yard in the snow, because a lot of snow and dirt stick to them. Then, when the skin thaws, it is difficult to tan. Better hooped frozen skins, which are frozen on poles in a suspension, as in drying.

During transportation and disassembly, frozen skins easily crack and break. At the factory you have to tinker with them a lot to put them into production. When the skin freezes, it becomes weaker. In the event of a thaw, especially during long-distance transportation, frozen skins easily deteriorate and rot.

There is another type of preservation of skins, this is dry salting. The skins are first salted and then dried. You can use less salt than with wet salting.

Any prepared skin must be handled with care, do not trample it, do not throw it anywhere, but store it in a safe place. Dry skins are almost as easy to break as frozen skins. Therefore, you need to save the skins so that they lie in a cool, dry place, so that water does not drip on them through a thin roof, so that they do not get wet from below, so that moths do not appear on dry skins, and in general, so that they do not deteriorate. If the skins have to lie for a long time, then it is necessary to review them and rearrange them, if necessary, salt them or ventilate them.

A knife is a mandatory attribute of a hunter. There are universal hunting knives, with the help of which they perform such operations as finishing game, skinning, cutting carcasses, and household work.

However, multifunctional tools are always inferior to specialized ones. For example, to quickly and efficiently remove skin from an animal, it is recommended to use a skinning knife specially designed for such purposes.

Types of skinning knives

There are several types of knives used for skinning - skinners, drop-point blades and clip-point blades.

Translated from English Skin - skin, leather. Accordingly, one of the varieties of knives is called Skinner. This is a highly specialized tool used for skinning and ripping open the belly of an animal. The design of the skinner is such that it is not suitable for cutting game. The blade of such a knife cannot be used to finish off animals while hunting.

The standard blade length is from 10 to 13 cm. The blade is made rounded, sometimes without a cutting part. The blade is wide, reminiscent of sharpening. The upper part of the blade is straight, not directed towards the tip. This shape allows you to cut the skin smoothly, avoiding uneven lines.

The skinner handle is small in size. It should fit comfortably in your hand. Some models have a butt with a hook.

Drop point

The drop-point blade is wide and thick. The blade has a straight spine, and the tip is located on the middle part of the blade. Thanks to this, the drop point can also be used for finishing game, cutting hides, and separating fat. Some models are equipped with an additional blade with one-and-a-half sharpening, which makes cutting the skin easier.

Clip point

Professional Clip-point knives have a blade that is narrower and more centered than Drop-point. High piercing ability makes it easy to make punctures in the skin with such a knife, no matter how thick it is.

The notch on the blade is directed towards the tip. There is a bevel on the butt. There may or may not be sharpening on the bevel - it depends on the model. Thanks to the rounded rise of the blade, the cutting edge area is increased, which makes skin removal convenient and quick.

Criterias of choice

Skinning knives must meet the following requirements:

Ease of cutting the skin.
Sufficient blade hardness. The optimal metal hardness is 55 HRC or more.
Blade wear resistance.
Ability to resist corrosion. The process of skinning prey involves the presence of a moist, viscous environment.
No need for frequent sharpening.
Ergonomic handle. The ideal handle of a skinner should be straight and have no bends or grooves. The best material for the handle is wood. The types of wood used are Karelian birch, walnut, wenge and some others. When making handles for good knives, plexiglass is not used, since it is a slippery and uncomfortable material.
There should be no engravings or patterns on the handle or blade. Decorations are suitable for collectible knives, but they only get in the way when doing work.

GOST requirements allow the use of the following metals for the production of skinning blades:

steel and its alloys (low-carbon, alloy or Damascus steel, damask steel);
composite compositions (for example, steel with the addition of titanium nitride);
other materials (including zirconium).

Some types of steel undergo additional processing, including grinding, heat treatment or burnishing. This gives the material additional performance characteristics.

From the point of view of working features, Damascus steel is best suited for making a skinner. However, this metal is not resistant to moisture and must be thoroughly wiped dry after use.

Do-it-yourself skinner

The stores have a large selection of knives for skinning prey. However, if desired, you can make a skinner yourself.

The easiest way is to purchase a blank for a knife for skins. Recommended blade material is stainless steel. Some craftsmen purchase material with “raw” hardening, and then themselves bring the steel to the required condition, forming a descent. Others buy blanks with bevels, sharpening and even a polished finish. In this case, all that remains is to make a handle, attach it to the tail section and begin skinning.

If there is no workpiece, you will have to make the skinner yourself. First, a drawing of the future knife is created. Real existing models are usually used as a model. Sometimes they decide to develop their own design. Then they adhere to the correct ratio of the length of the handle to the blade, corresponding to the tasks of the shape of the blade, and provide descents and fasteners.

You will have to independently make the following parts of a knife for cutting skins:

blade;
bolster (protective cover for the handle);
handle.

Manufacturing process

They start by making a blade for the skinner. You will need a source metal with characteristics appropriate to the task at hand. A file, saw blade, or even metal cable will do.

The first step is to give the material the correct shape using annealing technology. The process involves heating the metal to a high temperature. This can be achieved using, for example, an oven. The purpose of heating is to reduce the hardness of the metal to give it the desired shape using a tool. The type of material affects the hardening methods. Different types of steel require different approaches: hardening times and temperature conditions differ.

At home, a muffle furnace is best suited for hardening and tempering. This device is heated to a temperature of about 700 degrees. It is also possible to use a homemade forge, for example, from a tin can. It is important to maintain a reasonable balance. Due to overheating, the part will become excessively brittle, and if the temperature is insufficient, it will become too soft. Although in the latter case the situation can be corrected by new hardening.

There are a number of markers to check the readiness of the blade. Look at the color of the heated product. If the surface has turned cherry or scarlet, the temperature has reached 730–800 degrees. The part should be removed and the tempering process should begin.

As a result of tempering, the metal will acquire the required strength. The procedure is performed by reheating to the desired (not critical) temperature with further slow cooling. For this purpose, the metal is dipped in quenching oil, salted water, or left to cool in the open air. In the latter case, the technology is called “natural release”.

As soon as the required technological characteristics of the metal and the shape of the product are achieved, it is fixed to the handle shank. Then they begin finishing the blade. The blade is cleaned, polished and sharpened. The main attention is paid to the sharpness of the cutting part. For sharpening, sharpening stones (with small and large grains) are used. During the sharpening process, the sharpening angles are observed: for a skinner, the optimal angle is 25–30 degrees. It is recommended to use special corner clamps; they will allow you to maintain the desired angle, rather than working by eye.

The formed blade is ground using a stone with a fine-grained surface. The sharpness of the blade is checked as follows: if a falling sheet of newspaper is cut, the knife is sharpened well. It is suitable for working with skins.

Features of skinning different animals

There are specific features of skinning work depending on the type of animal. For a bear, the option of skinning “flat” is better. However, if the task is to create a stuffed animal standing on its hind legs, it is better to use the “from the back” method.

In relation to medium-sized predators (wolf, lynx), the “flat”, “from the back” and “stocking” methods are used. If you need to create a carpet from skin, use only the “layer” method.

The skin of small predators and rodents is removed with a “stocking”. But for working with porcupine skin, the only method suitable is “with a layer”.

For ungulates, four options are used:

Removing the skin to make a trophy head.
Removing the skin from the back to create a complete effigy.
The “layer-by-layer” method for making a fake wild boar.
Combined skinning. Used when it comes to large ungulates.

Methods for skinning game

You will need a well-sharpened skinner and a prepared workplace. You need to start skinning as soon as possible after shooting the animal. After just a few hours, the irreversible process of deterioration of the skin begins. Degradation occurs especially quickly in the armpits and groin areas. Fermentation processes in the gastrointestinal tract lead to bloating. As a result, the skin in this area becomes greenish and unsuitable for further use.

The skin should not be left in direct sunlight. You should not cover the animal with plastic wrap unless it is for transport to a taxidermist. Polyethylene does not allow air to pass through. Deprived of oxygen, the skin quickly begins to rot.

The carcass should be stored in a dry, clean and cool place. It is advisable to ventilate it well.

It is recommended to place the carcass on dry ground, grass, hay or boards. However, pine boards should be avoided as the resin will ruin the hide. Cotton or other natural fabrics are also used as lining.

To prevent the skin from deteriorating in the most sensitive areas - the armpits and groin - it is recommended to secure the paws of the prey at some distance from the carcass. Ropes are used for this.

The head and limbs should not be pressed to the body. Otherwise, rigor mortis will greatly complicate manipulation of the animal carcass.

Removing the skin "in a layer"

The “layer” or “carpet” method is used in relation to the skins of bears, beavers, moles, badgers, gophers, water rats, and pinnipeds. Skins from ungulates are removed in the same way.

The main incision is made from the middle of the lower lip to the tail. The cut line runs along the middle part of the ventral side of the carcass. Moles, water rats and beavers are skinned with one cut, cutting off their paws and tails. In the case of marine animals, the paws and tails are left behind.

Incisions are possible along the back sides of the front paws through the middle part of the chest - from the sole or hand of one of the paws to a similar area of the other paw. An incision is also made between the feet and the hocks of the hind legs. The incision is made along the back of the joints through the rump.

Having made the main cuts, they begin to gradually separate the skin from the carcass. First, remove it from the paws, moving towards the spine. The skin is completely removed from the head. It is removed from the paws along with the claws only on bears. In badgers and marmots, the skin from the paws is completely removed, but the claws are left. Beavers and ground squirrels are skinned at the level of the hands and heels.

The tail, divided by a longitudinal section, is left in all animals except the beaver. His skin is cut along the fur line.

Removing the skin “in a layer” is carried out with a sharp knife. As a result of careless actions, it is easy to pierce the animal’s belly, contaminating the skin with intestinal contents. This situation can be avoided by using small blades with a concave blade and a sharpening that does not reach the tip by about a centimeter. The end of their blade is thickened and the edges are rounded.

A knife with a sharp end is used to create a short cut in the skin in the lower jaw area. A knife blade with a blunt end is inserted into the resulting cut and continue cutting further - right up to the tail. The blunt end of the knife goes between the skin and the carcass, without spoiling them, and the blade directed towards the skin makes a cut.

Skinning "from the back"

This option is more complicated than the previous one. However, this has virtually no effect on the quality of the manufactured dummy.

Work order:

We make the main incision on the dorsal part - from the base of the tail. The incision is indented from the center of the back in any direction. We try to cut as evenly as possible, moving along the line of the spine to the head. We complete the incision near the occipital region of the animal.
Next, we return to the beginning of the cut and cut the skin from the side of the tail towards the belly. We finish the incision 6–7 cm from the anus.
We make cuts along the hind legs, as when removing the skin “in a layer.” We go around the paw pads along the back side - a centimeter from them.
On the front legs, we cut the skin just above the elbow joints - along the inner part of the shoulder. Then we move along the inner side of the forearm.
We remove the skin. We take special care in the armpit and groin areas. It is easy to damage the skin here due to the abundance of fat and skin folds.
We remove the skin from the shoulder girdle using the “stocking” method.

If the carcass has begun the process of rigor mortis or the animal is too large, skinning with a “stocking” often becomes impracticable. In this case, we increase the cuts along the front legs: we go from the elbow joints along the lower part of the shoulder blade to the cut in the center of the back. Thus, we implement the “layer” method, but from the back.

Skinning with a stocking

We make the main cut from foot to foot, from the outer edge between the pads of the toes. Going around the inside of the paw pad, we go to the center of the heel, to the popliteal cavity. Next, we move to the second paw between the tail and the anus and repeat the steps described above in reverse order.

On the front limbs we cut, as when removing the skin “from the back” - from the elbow joints to the hands.

The next step is to remove the skin from the feet and toes of the animal's hind paws. After this, we hang the carcass by the hind limbs. To do this, we pass the rope through the hole between the ankle and the Achilles tendon.

After freeing the hind legs and tail, the skin can be removed from the carcass without any problems. It is pulled together by grasping the edges and pulling downwards. However, if there are difficulties, there is no need to be too zealous so as not to damage the skin. In this case, remove it little by little - in a circle, while helping with a knife.

Trophy heads

Some hunters take on the task of making not only full-fledged stuffed animals, but also trophy heads for interior decoration. The trophy head refers to the head and the area from the tip of the nose to the shoulder girdle.

The cutting pattern behind the forelimbs is applied to all types of hunted animals, regardless of size. In the case of large ungulates, a cut is used along the back side of the skin with further bifurcation towards the horns.

From small ungulates, such as roe deer, skinning is carried out using the “stocking” method. The head is separated from the carcass along with the skin. In this case, only a small section of the skin in the area of the shoulder blades is cut off. You can also leave the heads of wild boars and elk in this form.

Note! For the operation of making a trophy head to be successful, the temperature regime (cool air) and the efficiency of transferring the working material into the hands of the taxidermist are important.

Birds

As with small animals, it is recommended that bird carcasses be taken whole to a taxidermist. An important factor in preserving birds is maintaining the integrity of the feather cover. You can’t just throw a carcass into the trunk, putting it on top of things. In this case, the feathers will bend or break.

After harvesting, the birds inspect the carcass for serious damage. If there are none, a piece of cotton wool is placed in the beak. Next, the beak, head and neck are wrapped with toilet paper. The already wrapped neck and head are tucked under the wing. Several sheets of paper are placed under the second wing. The wings and tail are pressed to the body. The bird is wrapped in paper, being extremely careful not to crush the plumage.

The packaged carcass is lowered, tail up, into a large plastic bag. Several fir branches are also placed there. Due to the presence of antibacterial phytoncides in fir, rotting is slowed down.

Note! If there are bleeding wounds on the carcass, they are covered with a piece of cotton wool or toilet paper.

Store the bird in a cool place. At 15 degrees above zero, a black grouse carcass remains suitable for further processing by a taxidermist for up to a day. Game with a damaged belly is preserved for much less time - several hours.

Fish

The fish are made into whole stuffed animals and trophy heads. To create a stuffed fish, it is recommended to give the whole fish to a taxidermist. The body, including the fins, must not be damaged. To deliver the fish intact, the fins are pressed against the body. Along one of them - the tail - place a piece of cardboard or fiberboard. Next, the fish is wrapped in one or two layers of cling film. It can be replaced with a plastic bag, and the previously described lining with a flat stick.

To create a trophy head, it is cut off so as not to damage the fins. Need skin reserve behind the head. If there is no taxidermist nearby and there is nowhere to freeze the fish, remove the entrails from the cut area. The esophagus and gills are left in place. The head will be stored for 4–5 days if the space freed from the entrails is generously salted. Salt is placed not only at the incision site, but also in the mouth, as well as under the gills.

Making a skinner is a difficult task to perform. It requires an understanding of the characteristics of steel and skills in working with tools. However, if you have the knowledge and follow the instructions exactly, anyone can make a skinning knife.

A hunter's complete arsenal is never complete without a specially designed knife for skinning the trophy. Experts in their field will never go hunting without a high-quality and reliable assistant. This means that a tool such as a knife must be selected correctly and strictly in accordance with its intended purpose.
There are knives whose purpose is solely for skinning, cutting up carcasses or finishing off prey. And there are multi-purpose specimens. It is clear that a kitchen, combat or professional knife is not suitable for hunting.

Types of knives for skinning.
It should be noted that the primary difference is not in the general appearance or material of the knife, but in the blade. This is exactly what should glide smoothly and not spoil the skin of the resulting trophy.

The first and main type of knife, the purpose of which is skinning, is considered skinner. This shape of the knife blade ensures smooth, minimally traumatic skinning of prey. The skinner is intended for this purpose only, and any use other than separating fat from the hide may cause damage to the hunting tool. This knife is equipped with a relatively short blade, 10–13 cm. Despite the length, the skinner has a fairly wide blade. The upper edge of the knife is straight and does not decrease towards the tip. In some cases, the blade may be missing a point. The handle of the knife is also small; for convenience, it is made the size of a palm. However, some models are equipped with a full handle. This is a personal choice of the hunter and his individual convenience. The butt of the skinner is sometimes equipped with a skinning hook.

The second type of knife often used for skinning is considered drop point. Unlike a skinner, such a knife can be used both for skinning and for cutting a carcass or separating fat from the skin. This knife is characterized by a lowered butt line. The tip is on the axis, thanks to which, when pressed, the drop point cuts well and also stabs perfectly. In some models of knives, to facilitate easy entry into the material being cut, a “false blade” or a second full blade with one-and-a-half sharpening is made.

The third universal type of skinning knife is a tool with a blade like clip point. The butt of such a blade has a bevel, the blade is narrower, and the tip has an awl-like appearance. There may or may not be a sharpening on the bevel of the butt. The rounded rise of the blade allows you to increase the length of the cutting edge of the tool, which makes skinning easier. This knife will also be useful for cutting a carcass and other ordinary hunter manipulations.

What to look for when buying a skinning knife?
When choosing a skinning knife, pay attention to the following factors:
- a hunter’s knife must be wear-resistant;
- maintains sharpness well;
- the tool implies quality and practicality;
- the material of the blade is of great importance. The ideal option is Damascus steel (it should be protected from moisture and dampness, and wiped dry after finishing work);
- the handle should be straight, without bends or deep grooves. Preferably made of wood - the warmest and most natural material.
When choosing a skinning knife, you should remember that this particular tool is a kind of extension of the hunter’s hand. Often patterns and various engravings are carved on the handle, but such tools will not be ergonomic due to the numerous protrusions. These knives are best added to your collection. Inexperienced or novice hunters often directly compare the length of the blade with the practical skills of the owner. In fact, everything is absolutely wrong; on the contrary, it is the skill of using a short blade that is an indicator of the hunter’s level.

It doesn’t matter whether you are the happy owner of a large farm in the countryside or just sometimes like to spend the weekend hunting, you definitely cannot do without a good knife for cutting up carcasses and skinning. After all, the taste of the meat and its shelf life largely depend on how quickly and efficiently the carcass is skinned.

Knives for cutting animal carcasses

A cutting hunting knife is called a “skinner”. It is distinguished by its curved “flying up” shape and the relatively small size of the blade, as well as the presence of a groove on it for draining blood. Thanks to all this, the knife easily copes with any cutting tasks, be it a large animal or a small bird. The blade, made of flexible and durable steel, allows you to bypass bones, separating the skin from the meat as cleanly as possible. In addition, the skinner knife is convenient to use for skinning.

Household knives and saws for cutting carcasses

For cutting pig and cattle carcasses, it is rational to use household knives or saws. Unlike a miniature skinner, such knives are much larger in size: a thick spine and a reliable, durable handle with a recess that prevents fingers from slipping. Most often, the handles of household cutting knives are made of durable plastic that can withstand repeated treatment with boiling water and considerable physical stress. There are also special requirements for the quality of steel for such products, because a knife for cutting carcasses must be both flexible and durable, preventing chipping.

However, what to do, you need to get dirty and divide the meat. What a modern hunter usually does is to chop the carcass into pieces with an ax along with the skin, and that’s the cutting for you.

Shooting and processing of animal skins for the production of hunting trophies

There are quite a few options for shooting, depending on the type of animal and what you plan to do.

Predators and rodents

The removal of skins for making a trophy head from predatory animals will be discussed separately.

Ungulates

For ungulates there are four main options: shooting the skin to make a trophy head, shooting “from the back” - for making a whole stuffed animal from small and medium-sized ungulates, “flat” - for making a stuffed animal from a wild boar and a combined shooting option - for a whole stuffed animal from large ungulates .

Shooting the skin "layer"

This method is used, as a rule, for skinning large predators, although it is also applicable for other animals, especially if you intend to make a “carpet” from your trophy.

To ensure that the shooting process does not take a lot of time and effort, you need to have a well-sharpened tool on hand and prepare a place to work.

The sooner you start removing the hide after harvesting, the better your chances of keeping the hide in perfect condition. Within a few hours after shooting, and in the summer or when shooting an animal during or immediately after feeding, the skin begins to deteriorate. In the armpit and groin areas, when the animal lies on its side, its body cools down very slowly, and the skin begins to rot. Due to the ongoing fermentation process, heat and gases are released in the animal's stomach and intestines, causing the belly to swell and the skin on the belly to turn green. In such places, the fur almost always comes out during the dressing of the skin, and in some cases even before dressing.

If you do not have the opportunity to remove the skin immediately after harvesting the trophy, try to protect your prey as much as possible from exposure to heat and moisture.

Do not leave the animal lying in the sun. Do not place it on cellophane film - without access to oxygen, the skin will begin to rot, not to mention that this film will not allow the carcass to cool. You can place the trophy on any natural surface - on the ground (but not on wet or heated by the sun), dry grass, boards (except pine - resin stains the fur a lot), hay or several layers of cotton fabric, matting or canvas.

But even if you take all of the above measures, it is best to start filming as early as possible.

This way, you will ensure that when working with the skin you will have a minimum number of hard-to-reach places for shooting.

The skin on the hand is cut according to the same principle as on the feet, depending on what you want to make from the animal skin (Fig. 3 and Fig. 4).

Remove the fingers from the skin to the last joint, leaving in the skin only the last phalanx of the finger on which the claw is located (Fig. 5). The pads on the fingers are not cut.

By removing two paws, for example the left front and back, you remove the skin from the back of the animal. Now it will be easier to remove the remaining two limbs.

Having separated the skin down to the molars, cut it closer to the skull so that the teeth become visible in the cut.

While the experience is not so great, it is easier when shooting to leave more cuts on the skin, which can later be removed by flaying, but at the same time avoid numerous cuts to the skin.

Shooting the skin from the back

This method of shooting is a little more labor-intensive than the previous one, but it ultimately has a very significant effect on the quality of the stuffed animal.

Then return to the beginning of the incision and continue from the side of the tail and anus towards the abdomen, ending 5-7 cm after the anus.

Make the cuts on the hind legs in exactly the same way as when shooting “in a layer”, going around the paw pads along the inside, 1 cm from the border of the pad.

Start making cuts on the front legs just above the elbow along the inside of the shoulder and then along the inside of the forearm, similar to the previous shooting option.

After this, you can begin skinning, taking special care in the armpit and groin areas, where it is quite easy to mistake the folds of fat and skin and cut the skin.

Remove the skin from the shoulders with a “stocking”, otherwise the shooting is practically no different from the previous method.

Shooting the skin with a “stocking”

On the front legs, make the cuts in the same way as when shooting “from the back,” from the elbow to the hand.

A. Salov

If in the near future it is possible to deliver the removed skin to a taxidermist, then the head, hands of the front legs and feet of the hind legs can be left uncovered. In cold weather (

HOW TO STORE A HIDE - FROM HISTORICAL SOURCES

No matter how well the skin is removed, it can soon deteriorate when lying around if special measures are not taken to store it.

Cleaned skin it should be salted like this.

When, say, a collective collects a lot of skins, it can be salted in riots or piles.

Damaged hide is not suitable for a tanner.

Wet-salted skins are the best, but sometimes it is difficult to get enough salt. Then you can store the skins by drying them.

Drying skins done in the warm season.

The skin removed from the animal is hung on a pole with the wool inward along the ridge.

You cannot dry skins by spreading them on the ground; the only correct way is to dry them in the shade so that there is air on all sides. You can dry cow and horse hides. They almost always dry milk, sheepskin, goatskin and foals. They can be dried in the hut in winter.

However, it is much better to salt the corn, as the Germans and Americans do, because then much better leather can be made from it.

There is another type of preservation of skins, this is dry salting. The skins are first salted and then dried. You can use less salt than with wet salting.

A hunting knife is an indispensable accessory for any hunter. This is not only a valuable practical thing, but also an essential element that emphasizes the status of its owner. A quality knife can perform many useful functions and, with proper care, will last for many years.

Choosing a hunting knife is not an easy task. In the modern world there are a great variety of different models. You can very easily get confused in them, especially if you don’t understand the intricacies: what steel is suitable for a hunting knife, what models are suitable for different hunts, what is the difference between manufacturers and why are the prices so different. A logical question may follow from this: why choose them again? You can simply buy any one you like. But it's not that simple. This article will help you reveal all the nuances when purchasing this product.

There are some important things you should know about before purchasing a knife.

Direct purpose of knives for hunting

First, ask yourself: “How do I intend to use this knife, what do I need it for?” If you are looking for a knife that will perform one specific task, such as skinning elk or deer, then you should choose this particular model. If you want a universal and multifunctional knife, know that it may not work well under certain conditions. A traditional knife with a fixed blade will perform its direct functions well - helping to cut up a trophy or cook dinner over a fire.

But if you need, for example, a screwdriver or pliers, you can buy a good multifunctional knife. This will be what you need.

Depending on the type of hunting, sooner or later any experienced hunter comes to the logical conclusion that he needs more than one knife.

If you are an avid hunter, we advise you to get this type of knife.

Clip point

Thanks to its more pronounced point, it is ideal for making punctures of any complexity. Characterized by a thin and narrow blade. The range of uses for this knife does not end with just hunting. It can be successfully used at home. If you don’t go out hunting that often, but prefer going out into nature, this knife will be most useful to you.

Skinner

Quite a unique knife with a narrow specialization. Designed mainly for skinning animals. With it, this process will remind you of a fairy tale and will save a lot of time. It is practically not suitable for cutting up carcasses. The blade itself is very rounded, often without a cutting part. In most cases it is used as a second knife. Moreover, due to its size, it takes up little space.

Blade material

The type of steel used in the blade is a very important fact when purchasing a knife. It is this that will determine the quality of sharpening and service life. The best steel blades boast strength and corrosion resistance.

Bottom line

Choosing a good hunting knife is not an easy process. But in most cases, personal preference matters. After reading the materials in our article, you will be able to take a more responsible approach to purchasing this accessory. We wish you happy shopping!

Video - Choosing a knife

Video - Exhibition of hunting knives

Video - How to sharpen a hunting knife

A successful hunter, for whom a good outing is not only the process itself, but also the result, will certainly be faced with the task of cutting and skinning a carcass. The quality of the meat, as well as the skin as one of the trophies, depends on the manifestations of skills and knowledge at this stage. Previously, various improvised materials, such as flint, were used for these purposes, but now there are special knives whose task is to help the hunter quickly and effortlessly gut a carcass, ultimately obtaining excellent, fresh meat and neatly cut skin. This skin can later be used for various purposes, including being passed on by inheritance as a family heirloom in memory of past successes.

Features of the skinning process and when a skinning knife is useful

After the animal is caught and deprived of life, it is necessary to begin cutting up the carcass and gutting it. This should be started as soon as possible so that the quality and taste of the meat does not deteriorate.

Every hunter knows one indisputable fact: before starting all manipulations with the body of a killed animal, it must be bled. If you can wait with other stages of cutting, then you should release the blood immediately if you want to end up with good meat and not spoiled “rotten meat”. For this, an ordinary hunting knife is useful, which should be stuck into the chest, thereby damaging either the heart or the large arteries emanating from it. The process of bleeding out may take a certain amount of time, but you must wait until the blood stops flowing completely.

A bled carcass should not be left unprocessed. It should be remembered that under normal field conditions, the processes of decomposition in the uneviscerated body of a killed animal begin after a couple of hours, and after 3 - 5 hours this meat will already have a smell, and, therefore, it cannot be eaten.

Depending on the circumstances, the next step will be either skinning or gutting. You can delay cutting off the layer of solid fur in the following cases:

if it is necessary to transport the product over a long distance. In this case, the animal’s fur will become a reliable coating that will maintain the optimal temperature. It should be noted that we are talking about a cooled or frozen carcass. If you transport meat with wool that has not cooled properly, then the only thing that can be achieved is a rotten result with an intoxicating corpse aroma upon arrival;
meat from which the skin has not been cut does not lose its weight due to the fact that it does not evaporate;
This product retains its original color and looks clean.

Consequently, wool on a killed animal can be left if it was killed specifically to obtain marketable meat. However, if the hunt was carried out in the warm season, and even more so in the heat, then the only correct solution would be to immediately remove the skin. After all, meat with wool cools very slowly, which means it will spoil at record speed.

The standard procedure involves starting the evisceration stage with skinning (skinning), which occurs in several stages:

First, you should clean the skin from possible traces of blood and dirt using a damp cloth;
Next, a special skinning knife will come in handy, which will preserve the integrity of the surface of the wool, which sometimes has no less value than the meat itself, and make the whole process quick and easy. The carcass is placed either on its side or on its back; it can be hung. There are two main methods of skinning: with a layer (if it is ungulate game), with a tube (if you are working with a hare or rabbit). To do this, a longitudinal incision is made from head to tail. The skin is also cut at the knee joints, from where it begins to be removed towards the central incision. First, the removed skin reaches the sacrum, after which the carcass is turned over and removed on the stomach towards the head;
The process ends with the final touch in the form of removing the skin from the head, or separating it as a trophy.

When skinning, knives are used specifically to cut and separate the skin from the subcutaneous connective tissue. The rest of the time, it is advisable to do everything by hand, using improvised means such as a towel and a wooden spatula. In animals such as deer, removing the skin will not be difficult, because it comes off very easily. You will have to tinker with a wild boar and practically not let go of the knife from your hands, because its skin is firmly connected to the muscle tissue. In this case, you should use the tool with double caution also because you can damage the roots of the awns (deep wool) and then the resulting skin will turn out to be shabby.

Structure of a skinning knife

The main assistant during skinning even looks different from his other hunter brothers. It is also called a skinner, which translated from English only confirms its main purpose - removing skin.

This essential piece of hunting equipment is a small-sized tool for specialized agricultural needs. Attribute skinning knives to the category of edged weapons is fundamentally wrong, because they differ from them:

a general design that does not allow direct stabbing wounds;
such knives must have a strong fixation of the blade if they are equipped with some transforming mechanisms;
the dagger blade in such knives is prohibited by law;
When the blade length is over 9 cm, skinning knives are prohibited, the design of which allows lightning-fast removal of the blade.

On average, knives designed for skinning are equipped with a wide and sharp blade, sharpened on one side. These are small tools, because their area of application implies the need to operate with a brush or elbow while working, which will be impossible if the size of the knife is too large.

The blade, as a rule, is small, 4–12 cm in size, structurally shorter than the length of the handle. It is distinguished by a convex cutting edge, the spine of the knife has a significant thickness, because while working with the tool, the blade should not spring back or slip. Most often, these knives have a fixed blade, but there are also folding models.

Types of skinning knives

There is a significant variety of this knife, which at first glance is not picky in terms of constitutional design.

First of all, the difference is in size. After all, for a fur-bearing animal, a small knife with a miniature blade is suitable, which will ensure clean and neatly cut skin. For working with large deer, a slightly larger sample size is suitable in order to remove the skin evenly, and not in short jerks.

Often, the blade of “skinners” has a slightly lowered blade so that when removing the skin, the knife does not break through it, and the applied force falls on the subcutaneous area. This is a version of a softened blade that is less aggressive given its sharpness. But there are also curved blades with the tip of the blade raised above the butt. In this case, the same softened effect is achieved, but using a different design.

Equally important in the operation of a knife is the ease of use. The presence of a guard to protect the hand, grooves, and notches for the fingers will ensure the correct grip of the tool and, as a result, it will be easy to work with it, which means the result will be cleaner.

In addition to the standard models, which represent a laconic relationship between the blade and the handle, there are variations with the addition of additional parts, which are most useful when skinning a carcass (insert for cutting skins), and will also contain tools for household purposes (corkscrew, awl) , special purpose (tool for cutting tendons). Sometimes additional modifications only interfere with a process where accuracy and calculation of movements are so necessary.

Skinning knives, which are equipped with a special hook, can boast of real practical use. This hook is located on top of the blade tip and points towards the handle. In practice, it is used to quickly cut the skin with one precise movement, as well as to open the peritoneal area.

Materials for making a skinner

Just by looking at skinning knives photo One obvious pattern can be noticed: almost all of them prefer wood as a material for making the handle. It can be Karelian birch, walnut, wenge, birch bark and many others. Wood is preferred for several important reasons:

a handle made of wood is called “warm”, that is, it does not cause rejection, in work it feels like an extension of the human hand;
Due to the low-weight handle, such a knife as a whole becomes light, which means it does not burden the hand during work and does not create additional stress. In addition, this is a durable material, therefore, you don’t have to worry about the condition of the handle;
the main advantage is the anti-slip properties of the wooden handle. In conditions of working with such a viscous liquid as blood, when cutting animals, this characteristic is decisive. After all, it provides good grip on the hand, on which both personal safety and the quality of the work performed directly depend;
such a handle will not freeze to the hand, which is also important, especially in winter types of hunting.

From this perspective, it is not recommended to use newfangled samples of handles made of plexiglass. Such a knife will slip out of the hand due to the slipperiness of the material upon contact with liquid; in the palm it will feel like something sharp and foreign. The same can be said about metal, as the basis for the handle. Its main drawback is its poor ergonomics. In the cold, such a knife can even damage your palm; you will have to handle this cold material with gloves, which from the point of view of skinning technology is not at all realistic.

According to GOST, the materials for blades of skinning knives can be used:

metals and their alloys (from low-carbon to damask and Damascus steel);
other materials (zircon-zirconia);
compositions of materials of different composition (steel with a layer of titanium nitride).

Obviously, one of the main useful characteristics when working with such a blade will be its anti-corrosion properties. After all, the scope of application of skinning blades involves working in a damp, viscous environment, and, therefore, blades that are susceptible to corrosion will be difficult to care for. Therefore, of all types of steel, it is best to choose alloyed steel, which contains elements such as nickel and chromium.

The next necessary property is the hardness and strength of the blade. The skinning knife must provide an accurate cut, be reliable and durable in operation. In this regard, the hardness of the steel used is often adjusted to at least 55 HRC; ideally, the higher the better. Then the likelihood of damage to the blade during heavy or imprecise work will be minimal.

Sometimes such blades use various mechanical and thermal processing technologies (grinding, painting, bluing), which are designed to ensure longer service life of the blade and proper care of the surface.

How to make a skinning knife with your own hands

A similar model of a hunting knife can be bought at a specialized store, or you can design it yourself.

To do this, it is not at all necessary to have an equipped workshop at home with a whole set of appropriate tools. The task is simplified by the fact that you can always purchase a blank for a knife. This is possible, given the design of hunting knives, which prefer mounted mounting of the handle, which involves mounting it on the shank of the handle and its subsequent fastening.

It is advisable to purchase the workpiece from stainless steel. You can stop at “raw” hardening and then independently bring the product to strength, form the slopes, or you can buy a ready-made sample with the basic characteristics of the slopes, sharpening and even polishing the blade. In the latter case, all that remains is to make a handle, attach it to the shank and go to skin the carcass.

If there is nowhere to purchase the blank, then you can start the manufacturing process from scratch. Having the necessary knowledge and skills, you should begin shaping the blade for the future knife using the same mounting method, as the most acceptable for skinning knives in view of the possibility of repairs and the ease of the resulting design.

To make DIY skinning knives“from scratch” you should first make a sketch of the future product. If you don’t have enough imagination for this, then you can use ready-made models, on which the required ratio of the blade to the handle is drawn, the shape of the blade, the necessary slopes and the method of fastening are indicated.

In order to form a future knife you need to make:

the blade itself;
bolster (which is a pad in the front part of the handle that serves to protect the end from redistributing loads);
handle.

First you should start making the blade. To do this, you can use any available source material that boasts good properties and quality. It could be a file, a saw, springs, or even a cable. After all, sometimes in order to make a knife with your own hands there is not much to choose from, since melting metal at home is unrealistic.

The first stage is to give the selected material the required shape, in this case, the skinner blade. For this purpose, annealing technology is used. When the product is heated to low temperatures (250°), which is realistic in a conventional oven, followed by slow cooling. Thus, the part will lose its hardness and it can be given any shape using an electric or mechanical tool (grinder) and a drawing of the desired shape.

But with hardening the source material, the situation is even simpler. You just need to know what the original sample is made of, because hardening methods for alloy and carbon steels differ in temperature and time exposure. Hardening followed by tempering is a necessary step to give the blade the necessary hardness and strength. At home, for this stage you can use either a muffle furnace, which is easier to maintain and bring to the required temperature (700°), or a homemade forge from a tin can.

The main thing is to maintain the correct balance, because if the part overheats, it will be hopelessly damaged (it will become irreversibly brittle), but if the future blade is not hardened, the product will be very soft, but in this case the situation can be corrected by repeated, correct hardening.

There are methods for checking the readiness of a product. This is, first of all, an indicator of color. If the part has acquired a cherry-red and scarlet color, then this indicates that the hardening temperature has been reached at 730 - 800 ° C - the most optimal temperature. This means that the product must be removed to carry out the tempering procedure, which should give the overly hard blade the strength it needs.

Tempering is carried out by reheating the sample to a certain (not critical) temperature, followed by slow cooling. To do this, the part can be dipped in quenching oil, water with added salt, or left to cool in the open air (natural tempering).

After the product has acquired the necessary technical characteristics and shape, you can begin to form the knife by attaching the handle to the shank and finishing the blade.

The blade must be cleaned, polished, and sharpened. Particular attention should be paid to the sharpness of the cutting edge, because the skinning knife must cut well and evenly. To do this, you should have several types of sharpening stones (coarse and fine-grained) in your arsenal. In this process, it is important to maintain sharpening angles. For a skinner, the ideal indicator would be to form a blade of 25-30°, which is intended specifically for hunting knife models due to the fact that such a blade does not dull for a long time. If it is difficult to maintain the required degrees by eye, then you can stock up on special clamps for corners that will prevent you from bevelling the desired indicator.

One of the indispensable attributes of every hunter is a knife. For many, it is a subject of attention and even pride; its choice is approached with the utmost care.

To select the right hunting knife, you need to decide on how to use it during hunting. If we exclude extreme situations, such as hand-to-hand combat, for example with a hare, then a knife during hunting is used to finish off a wounded animal, for skinning game, for camping, tourism and household kitchen purposes. In a good way, four different ones would be suitable for all this, in the first case it is better to use something like a dagger, in the second a small convenient knife with a long curve like a drop point, for kitchen purposes any small one with a thin blade, and for hiking in the forest, on the contrary, a large survivalist or army cleaver.

Because of all this, the best blades for hunting are either the best representatives of highly specialized blades, or partially universal ones with a successful combination of characteristics, since, unfortunately, an absolutely universal knife for hunting does not yet exist. While it is convenient to cut through thickets and chop firewood, it is not very suitable for peeling potatoes or skinning. Therefore, when choosing a knife, the hunter must assume what kind of hunting he will have to do, a taiga search, an ambush for a duck or a command for a large animal, and what he will have to do with it. It is often better to have several of them than none at all.

We present a rating of ten knives that are very popular, enjoy well-deserved respect and, in the opinion of most hunters, perform well when used. This includes both types of knives, which represent a certain shape and concept, manufactured by many manufacturers, and individual models, which are a successful individual development, based on careful calculation and analysis, from a specific manufacturer.

Buck 110BRS is a knife from Buck Knives, the only folding knife in our rating. This good hunting blade has been produced by the company since 1962, and during this time it has earned a reputation as a reliable tool, equal in strength to monolithic ones.

Made of steel 420 NS, hardness 56-58, handle made of Macassar Ebony wood with copper inserts. Comes with a lifetime warranty. The length of the blade is 95 mm, the total length of the device is 220 mm. The blade is suitable for both skinning carcasses and for everyday camping needs.

Compact, lightweight, reliable, relatively versatile.

The blade is short and it is still not a monolithic knife.

Price 3000 – 5000 rub. (1480 – 2400 UAH)

Military

Military is a group of multifunctional knives of military origin and design. Many hunters prefer them because of their versatility, convenience, often habit, or their brutality.

This includes the classic army models HP-40, HP-43 “Cherry”, “Finka NKVD”, “Vityaz”, the American “Ka-Bar Next Generation Fighter”, etc. or their hiking and tourist replicas. Most of them have a length of more than 150 mm, a thick spine of more than 3 mm with sorrator sharpening, a Bowie or Spear-point blade shape, a handle made of ergonomic artificial materials with a cross or a well-defined stop.

Most of these knives, due to their military origin and sick multitasking, cope perfectly with most hunting tasks, especially if the hunting is of a hiking type, regardless of their model. But you need to pay attention that many of them are prohibited, subject to free circulation and require permission.

Among the civilian modifications of such weapons, we can recommend the Military knife, manufactured by the Kizlyar plant. The blade has a slight drop in the spine, narrowed towards the tip and wide slopes from the middle. The length of the product is 287 mm, the blades are 160 mm, the thickness of the butt is 5.2 mm, AUS-8 steel, hardness 55 - 57 HRC, with a black matte finish. The solid blade is passed through the entire handle, forming a “glass break” in the back; the material of the handle is elastron. This is a good knife for camping, but it will do an excellent job of cutting and skinning carcasses, especially large ones. It is allowed for free circulation and has a very reasonable price.

The knives are quite versatile, reliable, multifunctional, and have a brutal appearance.

Most of these blades require a permit and are not suitable for skinning small carcasses.

Price: Kizlyar “Military” - 2550 rubles. (1250 UAH)

Model 007 – hunting knife from gunsmith Pampukha I.Yu. It has been manufactured for more than 20 years and is the most popular model of this workshop. Stainless steel damask steel is forged personally by the master, total length - 263 mm, blade - 145 mm, spine - 4 mm, hardness 60-63 HRC, wooden handle.

A very balanced, high-quality, well-thought-out hunting knife with a classic shape. Special properties are obtained due to the sharpening angles and the forging method. Possessing excellent cutting properties, it can withstand high loads. This versatile blade is good for skinning and butchering game. It would be an ideal choice if not for the price.

High-quality, reliable, almost universal.

High price.

Price 21,000 rub. (10000 UAH)

A fisherman's knife is a whole group, similar in shape, function and appearance. The Fisherman is a fairly universal hunting blade, intended primarily for skinning and cutting up trophies. A knife with a straight wooden handle (usually Karelian birch), usually simple and smooth, sometimes with a notch for the index finger.

The length of the blade is about 120 - 180 mm, the bend of the blade is slightly longer than usual, the sharpening is from a third to the middle of the blade. The main emphasis of the metal is on its anti-corrosion properties. It usually comes with a sheath.

Similar blades are produced by different manufacturers under the names “Promyslovik”, “Poacher”, “Taiga”, etc.

Relatively versatile, perfect for cutting animals.

They don’t solve all the issues during the hike.

Price: 2600 – 18000 rub. (1400 – 10000 UAH)

Spyderco Bill Moran is a knife from the USA, a joint creation of the famous designer Bill Moran and the Spyderco company. One of the lightest (84 g) and durable models on the market. The length of this model is 203 mm, the blade is 99 mm, VG-10 steel. It is thanks to the very durable Japanese stainless steel that the cutter is so durable and lightweight.

The blade is very good, it copes well with both skinning trophies, even quite large ones, and with many household issues during hunting, and thanks to its weight, or rather its absence, it will not be difficult during any transition and can be used as a second special one without any problems. The downside is the molded handle instead of surface mounting.

Durable, light, reliable, good for skinning.

Short blade.

Price: 8000 – 11000 rub. (3600-4500 UAH)

The Yakut hunting knife is a traditional knife of Yakutia, known for hundreds of years, and belongs to the universal hunting knife. It is distinguished by wide functionality, as well as simplicity and ease of use, optimal for taiga hunting. It is a pointed blade with a straight spine, a narrow blade with an asymmetric sharpening, 110 - 170 mm long. The steel is forged by local blacksmiths using their own technologies, reaching a strength of 56 -60HRC.

On the right side of the blade there is a dol that strengthens it. The handle is straight, without stops or crosses, the cross-section of the handle is oval, slightly longer than the palm. Made from a single piece of birch burl, impregnated with oils to protect against moisture. A good knife can be bought in Yakutia itself, where they are widely produced, but can also be found in a number of online stores.

Versatile enough for hunting and hiking, reliable.

It is difficult to buy a high-quality, original blade.

Price: 4000 – 20000 rub. (3000 UAH)

Benchmade Hidden Canyon is another knife from the USA, from the Benchmade company. This is a good hunting blade, if not one of the best at the moment. It appeared recently, but has already firmly gained popularity among hunters. Drop Point type blade, 65 mm long, with a total product length of 160 mm, spine thickness 3.5 mm. Steel S30V with hardness 58-60 HRC.

The handle is made of G-10, which does not absorb liquids, so it will not slip. It does an excellent job of skinning and butchering game. Quite versatile and comfortable to wear. It would be ideal for hunting if not for the short blade.

An excellent blade for working with a trophy, well thought out, high quality, reliable.

Very short blade.

Price: 9000 – 11000 rub. (4600 – 6000 UAH)

Berkut - from the Kizlyar plant, a model produced for more than ten years, widely sold and has become quite popular. Kizlyar blades, among domestic ones, are distinguished by a good price-quality ratio, and this model especially emphasizes this.

This is a knife with a “Bowie” type blade, on the straight bevel of the butt there is an additional sharpening for chopping small bones, on the heel of the blade there is a finger groove. The length is only 285 mm, the blade is 160 mm, French steel Z60CDV14, hardness 56 - 58 HRC. The handle is made of Caucasian grain, protected from moisture. The Berkut is a good universal blade, due to its shape it is perfect for skinning, cutting and for work in field conditions. The only drawback is that it refers to edged weapons and requires permission.

Published: 15.12.2012

Hunting bladed weapon

To bladed weapons intended to cause bodily harm to animals (animals, birds); for cutting up carcasses, skinning, cooking, setting up a place to stay for the night, etc. various operations related to hunting include:

Hunting knife,
- dagger,
- cleaver,
-- stiletto,
-- a spear,
- slingshot.

For example, a knife can be recognized as a bladed weapon only based on a combination of characteristics, including:

Blade length is more than 90 mm;
-- the edge of the blade, adapted for thrusting (GOST lists a number of geometric parameters of the blade)
-- a handle that provides a reliable hold during an injection (GOST standardizes the size of the stops and (or) finger grooves of the handle)
-- the strength of the blade or the entire structure of the knife (the material and hardness of the blade, design features, etc. are taken into account).

In modern practice, a manufacturer or seller of knives certifies products at the Forensic Expert Center of the Ministry of Internal Affairs of the Russian Federation, receiving a certificate classifying the knife as a household tool or weapon. When purchasing a knife, the buyer can receive an “Information Sheet” containing a description of the knife, an expert opinion, its date and number and the coordinates of the body that performed the examination.

How to choose the right knife

Connoisseurs and connoisseurs of hunting knives often discuss the grades of steel that are used to make blades. In this case, the chemical composition of steel, the structure of the alloy, manufacturing technologies and other subtleties are considered. But the opinion is often expressed that a simple consumer does not need to delve into such complex details and become a home-grown metallurgist-steelmaker. If our goal is simply to buy a high-quality hunting knife that will serve for many years and delight its owner, then it is enough to remember a few simple facts. Of course, you won’t pass for an expert, but you will get closer to a competent consumer and user.

BLADE STEEL IS NOT THE MAIN THING

That is, of course, knowing the grade of steel of the blade and understanding what it means is useful. But what does this give us? First you need to figure out why a knife is needed at all and what qualities it should have.

The knife must cut. Sometimes it’s convenient to pierce something with a blade or pick it out.
The knife should NOT: chopping, sawing, working with a poker and jack - this is not its area of application.
Accordingly, we expect good cutting properties from a knife (ease of cutting, sharpness and “not dull for a long time”), and strength.

What makes a knife cut?

Without going into the details of metallurgy, let's say that due to its geometry. Not due to sharpness and good steel, but due to the shape of the blade, sharpening angle and other characteristics that ensure easy penetration and destruction of the material being cut. Accordingly, the geometry of the blade is the first thing the consumer should pay attention to. The thinner the knife, the better it cuts, all other things being equal. It is generally accepted that a thin blade, in cross section representing a thin isosceles triangle (wedge), works best. The closer the cross-section of the blade is to such a figure, the better the knife will cut bread, vegetables and everything else. However, the strength of such a blade is low, and when cutting hard materials or chopping something, a knife with such a blade section will dull quite quickly. Therefore, quite often a slightly different section is used - a wedge with an inlet. It looks like the same wedge, but the cutting edge is sharpened at a more obtuse angle, about 30-40 degrees. This solution allows you to increase the thickness of the cutting edge and increase its strength, while maintaining the good cutting properties of the blade.

HANDLE

The next thing that makes working with a knife easy and enjoyable is the handle. Here everyone chooses for themselves, for their needs and their own hands. You cannot choose a knife based on a picture or just by looking at the display case - you must definitely hold the knife in your hands and try what it will be like to work with it in warm gloves, if it is not a kitchen knife. It is important that there are no sharp corners or numerous grooves on the handle; they can crush your hand during operation. Decorated handles of gift knives very often turn out to be inconvenient precisely because of the abundance of protrusions, as well as handles that are round in cross-section, due to which the knife can rotate in the hand.

We also note that it is in vain that many people disdain handles made of synthetic materials, preferring wood, birch bark, bone or leather. Modern plastics are very comfortable in the hand and provide reliable hold of the knife with a minimum of care for the handle. Synthetics, of course, do not always look as “elegant” as some golden veined wood. But natural material can darken, absorb dirt and odors, crack or become wet, while plastics (and even not all of them) are only afraid of solvents like acetone or very severe frosts, during which they become less durable.

JACKKNIFE

A folding knife is a type of knife whose blade is retracted into the handle. Modern folding knives often have one-handed opening features, such as a peg or hole. Folding knives are convenient in urban environments due to their small dimensions. If you buy a folding knife, be very careful about how the mechanism works. Nowadays, most knives have a locking lock that locks the knife in the open position (often called a lock). Most often this is a liner lock ( liner-lock, linear lock) in the form of a spring-loaded plate hidden in the handle.

Liner is not the most complex lock, does not require special attention and maintenance, is simple and reliable to use, provided it is manufactured properly. When purchasing, look very carefully at how the lock mechanism works, how well it holds the blade, and how convenient it is to open and close the knife. A well-made folding device should open comfortably and easily (without excessive effort), and at the same time not have longitudinal or transverse play in the open position. The blade should not “wobble” if you forcefully try to swing it in the opening-closing plane, as well as in the “breaking” direction. There is a slight play in itself during operation
practically unnoticeable, but its presence on a new knife indicates low quality manufacturing and the possible imminent retirement of the knife.

Also, in addition to the liner lock, a lot of different types of locks are used. The simplest requirements and quality control methods described above are generally the same for all folding knives.

A folding knife should open comfortably and easily. Nowadays, most folding knives have special holes, protrusions, pins or washers on the blade that allow you to quickly open it with one hand, most often with the movement of the thumb. The location and shape of the device for opening the knife should be convenient for you and your hands, since everyone’s palms and fingers are different.

When choosing a knife, you should definitely think about how and where you will wear it. A clumsy person should have a comfortable sheath that securely holds the knife - there is nothing more offensive than losing your favorite blade. When buying a folding one, you should try putting it in your pocket, attaching it to your belt, trying to remove it, quickly take it out - check how comfortable the knife is not only to use, but also to carry. The general consensus is that thick, heavy folding knives with protruding parts are not comfortable to carry in your pocket. Nowadays, most folding knifes are made lightweight, relatively “flat” and with a special clip that allows you to attach the knife to a belt or pocket. Treat this springy part with distrust: carrying a knife on an unreliable “clothespin” is the easiest way to lose it. The clip should not be too thick, hard or too soft, otherwise it will not hold the knife or, on the contrary, will hold it too tightly.

BLADE STEEL

So, the knife has a comfortable handle, a high-quality lock and cuts well. So what does steel grade have to do with it?
The grade of steel is actually its encoded chemical composition, which is quite strictly limited by standards. Depending on the material of the blade, the knife can rust, become dull quickly, be difficult to sharpen, bend easily or break under the slightest load. But, again, the steel grade does not play the only determining role here. The quality of hardening is a very important factor; depending on it, the blade can be too soft, bend and quickly become dull (under-hardened) or brittle and brittle (over-hardened). Unfortunately, it is impossible to determine the quality of hardening by eye.

Many manufacturers indicate the hardness of the blade in their catalogs. Typically throughout the world this indicator is measured in Rockwell units and denoted HRc. For knives, this indicator is measured in the range from 40 to 60 units; for small pocket knives, a range from 52 to 58 units is considered good. A knife with a hardness of 60 or more HRc should be treated carefully - it is either a product of the highest technology at an appropriate price, or simply a deception of the buyer. However, the presence of a catalog with the specified characteristics of the knife already indicates the manufacturer’s attentive attitude towards the buyer and the product produced and is a positive signal for purchase.

But, again returning to the title of the article, what is a steel grade and is it worth paying attention to it? Still worth it. We consider it unnecessary and uninteresting to talk in detail about the types of steels and classification of grades. We’ll just indicate a few brands of the most common knife steels and explain what this can mean.

Of the domestic steels, the most common for knives is steel 65X13. The letter "X" stands for chrome and indicates that the steel is stainless. This steel is most often used to make medical scalpels and other instruments, which is why this steel is often significantly referred to as “surgical” or “medical grade.” This is a fairly soft steel; a knife made of 65X13 is easy to sharpen, but also dulls quickly. The only undeniable advantage of this steel is that it truly never rusts. Almost all domestic knife consumer goods are made from it, often branding the products with the name of the city of Vorsma, Nizhny Novgorod region (partly in
This is the fault of some manufacturers who flooded the market with low-quality goods in the 90s, partly a campaign to discredit Vorsma craftsmen by other manufacturers). Some craftsmen are able to work efficiently with 65X13, hardening it to normal hardness, but this is rather rare. In general, we can say that this is a steel for an inexpensive working knife. The closest analogue of the domestic 65X13 can be considered American steel grade 425mod.

Steel 65G- This is a “rusting” spring steel, popular for both mass-produced and homemade knives.
Most so-called “throwing knives” are made from it, and quite rarely, cutting knives. However, if a neighbor in the garage made a homemade knife, then it will most likely be a knife made from a spring, that is, from 65G steel. Steel rusts heavily, has the unpleasant property of bursting under load, or being heavily tempered (or under-hardened) and bending very easily. In factory conditions, they often try to neutralize the tendency to rust by applying various polymer coatings to the blade or by oxidation (blueing), but any coating will eventually wear off and in any case does not provide 100% protection against corrosion. However, 65G is one of the cheapest knife materials, and it cuts quite well, so knives from this steel will be made for a long time. Decent specimens, alas, are extremely rare.

Steel 40Х12– very soft steel. Cheap domestic kitchen knives and souvenir blades are made from it. Steel is difficult to harden, so the products are very easy to bend, and the knives quickly become dull. However, such knives are acceptable in the kitchen, since they do not rust under any conditions, are very easy to sharpen and do not require additional care. Moreover, if you are used to working in the kitchen “in the European style”, constantly adjusting the knife with musat, a knife made of 40X13 is a good choice.
The popular 420 steel is considered a foreign analogue of this steel.

Steel 95Х18– a good domestic stainless steel, but, unfortunately, quite capricious in hardening and processing. From reputable manufacturers it has high hardness, while being flexible and quite durable. A 95X18 knife is not as easy to sharpen well as a regular kitchen knife, but the blade will keep its sharpness for quite a long time. When overheated, the knife can become brittle, easily break and chip parts of the blade. With prolonged contact with moisture, and especially with salt, slight corrosion may occur. With all this, it is one of the best steels in domestic knifemaking, with which both large manufacturers and respected private craftsmen work. The imported analogue is 440B steel.

Steel 50Х14МФ used by a number of large manufacturers. With high-quality heat treatment, it produces hard and durable blades that hold an edge well. As with any other steel, under-heated specimens are characterized by softness and rapid wear, while over-heated specimens are brittle. Many believe that with proper hardness the blade will be fragile, so they urge caution when handling long, thin blades made of 50X14MF. Overall a good all-purpose steel, although it can occasionally corrode with prolonged contact.
with moisture, its properties are close to domestic steel 65Х13. This steel should not be confused with the “fiftieth” 50X12, which is an “intermediate option” between 40X12 and 65X13 and is used mainly for the manufacture of kitchen knives.

Let's move on to steels used in foreign-made knives.

The cheapest and most popular steel for imported knives, from which the vast majority of them on the Russian market are made, is considered to be 420 steel. Almost all Chinese knives are made from it, which has brought it notoriety. Indeed, in the “oriental” version it is a low-quality material, with characteristics closer to our “kitchen” 40X12. The only advantage of this 420 steel is that it is absolute “stainless steel”, which is why Taiwanese “underwater” knives made of 420 steel are considered among diving enthusiasts
quite tolerable. True, Japan stands out separately among its eastern neighbors, as in many other things - they make quite high-quality products from 420.

In the “Western” version, 420 steel is considered a normal inexpensive knife material. Spanish knives made of 420 steel are also very soft, almost like Chinese ones. But German (Magnum, Beker), Swiss (Victorinox, Wenger) and Austrian (Fortuna) knives made from 420 are distinguished by greater hardness and neat execution. The only thing that should be noted is that all 420 steel blades, both Chinese and European, are very thick and heavy, which makes them less convenient when cutting anything.

Particularly noteworthy is the American quality of knives made from 420 steel. Along with almost souvenir products from United Cuttlery, SOG and Buck make excellent knives from 420 steel with a blade hardness of up to 57 HRc, and at the same time the blade is often quite thin and elastic. This once again confirms the position that high-quality hardening and processing is often more important than the grade (chemical composition) of steel.

Knives made from 420 steel are not always marked accordingly. If there is no inscription on a knife from an unknown manufacturer, or it simply says “Inox”, “Stainless”, “Stainless Steel”, “Rostfrei” (actually the word “stainless steel” in various languages), “Super-steel” and so on, then most likely This is exactly 420 steel with all the ensuing consequences.

Steels 425 and 425mod are modifications of 420 steel with minor changes in composition. For the user, this gives a slightly more durable blade sharpening with slightly harder steel. However, 425 steel is a rarer material for knives than 420 steel.

In general, well-known manufacturers rarely work with 420 series steels, since obtaining decent quality blades from these materials requires an expensive and complex production process. The use of cheap steel in this case is economically unjustified, and manufacturers most often use 420 steel in products for which corrosion resistance is very important.

Very common steels in knife production are steels of the 440 series. These are 440A, 440B and 440C. The softest and most “stainless” steel is 440A. Knife steel 440C is the hardest, but it is also brittle and more susceptible to corrosion. 440A is most often used to make large non-folding knives, including submariner knives and survival knives. With high-quality processing, very high-quality blades are obtained from 440A steel, for example, the American company SOG, but most often reputable companies avoid this soft material.

440B steel is used quite rarely in knife production. But a lot of knives are made from 440C in both Europe and America. For quite a long time, this steel was considered the best for knives, until it was replaced by new expensive high-tech alloys. But it is still a very popular and worthy knife material. 440C is a fairly hard steel, knives made from it cut well and do not become dull for a long time, but with prolonged contact with moisture and/or salt, rust may appear. This is a very good material for blades when properly processed. However, it is worth noting that 440C steel made by Spanish manufacturers is often softer,
than even 440A from other Europeans.

“On the basis” of steels of the 440 series, several equally famous steels used for the manufacture of knives were created.

Steel grades AUS6, AUS8 and AUS10 can be considered analogues of 440A, 440B and 440C, respectively. AUS6 is often used on relatively inexpensive Taiwanese knives, both from Taiwanese companies and well-known American and European brands. Many knives from the world's leading manufacturers (as well as clothing, shoes, and electronics) are made in Taiwan, which does not mean their low quality. AUS10, like 440C, is one of the best materials for knives, but it can also rust slightly. But in general, it should be noted that AUS series steels rust a little more than 440 series steels due to less chromium in the composition, but are less brittle.

Among the steels with properties similar to 440C are Japanese ATS34 and American 154-SM. These are slightly more expensive steels, but in general their properties and hardness are close to 440C, although they are more prone to corrosion. Knives made from these steels are also difficult to sharpen yourself, but at the same time they hold an edge for a long time, do not dull easily and are quite durable, which allows you to make thin blades that cut well. Also among similar steels are GIN1 and VG10; at the moment these are one of the best steels of traditional technology for knife production.

Most users will not notice the difference between 440C, 154-CM, ATS34, AUS10, GIN1 and VG10. These steels are similar in composition and properties. But the main thing is that well-established companies work with these materials; they make not the cheapest knives and can afford to use more expensive steel. A knife made of any of the listed steels will be an excellent choice for the buyer. You only need to be careful with 440C steel from Spanish or little-known manufacturers who can speculate on this well-known grade of steel. Using a popular grade of steel, but not knowing how or not wanting to process it properly, such companies do not provide the high quality of their knives. If you avoid such products, then a knife made of good steel will please its owner for many years, requiring a minimum of sharpening and maintenance.

In recent years, high-tech expensive steels have appeared in the knife industry, produced not by traditional casting, but using special technologies for instant micro-droplet cooling and subsequent processing. In terms of their chemical composition, these steels could be called “alloyed cast iron,” but in terms of molecular structure they are more like “metallic glass.”

Steel CPM 440V(S60V) is one of the few new type steels used in the mass production of knives by large manufacturers. An excellent material for a knife, a very hard blade retains its sharpness for a long time and does not rust, and such knives have special cutting qualities. The only drawback of this steel is some brittleness, and therefore it is not used for heavy chopping knives. However, this is a rather expensive material, and mainly small knives, most often folding ones, are made from it. These knives are more for connoisseurs who can not only admire the quality of the cut, but also will not chop or pick out anything hard with a knife.

Using this article, you can choose a high-quality knife from a domestic or foreign manufacturer. When understanding the most popular steels, still remember where the article began - with the fact that this is not the main thing. The geometry of the blade, the handle, and the mechanism play no less a role. If you choose a knife for yourself, then choose one that suits your own hand, without paying premature attention to the design and appearance of the knife. Some even choose a knife with their eyes closed to find the most comfortable handle.

Think about what you will most likely do with this knife - clean fish, sharpen pencils, cut food? Buy a knife based on your tasks, without listening to the advice of “experts” who brag about their huge hunting cleavers. A knife is a laconic, practical tool, a faithful companion and friend, so you need to choose it wisely and for yourself.

Source: “WORLD OF SECURITY” magazine No. 119

Tourist and hunting knives

For a real hunter, a knife is not just a tool. Buying a hunting knife means choosing a faithful comrade and friend who will help in difficult times and will not let you down in an extreme situation. Hunting knives are a natural extension of the hunter’s hand, part of his body. That is why the best hunting knives are ideally balanced, sharp, reliable and durable. In the field there will be no time to repair, sharpen or straighten the tool, so hunting knives should always be in perfect condition.

Hunting and tourist knives are reliable and convenient tools on which a person’s life often depends in extreme conditions, be it hunting or outdoor activities. Therefore, special requirements are always placed on products such as knives for hunting and tourism. Without exaggeration, we can say that hunting knives - Finnish, German, Swiss - are the pinnacle of the art of creating knives. This has been the case since time immemorial, when the best hunting knives were worth their weight in gold. Often a hunter would give half of his annual catch for a quality instrument and did not regret it. Handmade hunting knives were so highly valued in the old days. Hunters lined up to see the knife master and dutifully waited for him to get to work. Moreover, such hunting knives could only be bought for a fabulous price. Hunting knives made of Damascus steel also cost a lot of money. However, even in our time, any catalog of hunting knives offers high-quality products at an expensive price, but they are worth it.

Hunting knives

Hunting knives can be useful for both fishing and hunting. You can also buy a hunting knife for outdoor activities or just as a gift; they are in demand in any situation, they are distinguished by unsurpassed quality and an affordable price. What types of hunting knives are there, what functions can they perform, and how to make a choice so that the hunting knife is durable and convenient?

Let's start with the fact that the main requirement for a hunting knife is not its attractive design or interesting handle, but the durable steel of the blade. Hunting knives are made from special steel alloys; hunting knives made of Damascus steel are in greatest demand - durable and reliable. If you come to the store to buy a hunting knife, then it is important to clearly understand what exactly the hunting knife will be used for. A hunting knife for cutting a carcass and a universal knife for hunting are two different models. For each case, you will need your own knife with a special blade length and a certain blade bend.

So, if you need a hunting knife for finishing game, then it should have a narrow blade, similar to a spear. If you plan to remove skins with a hunting knife, it should have a curved blade and, if possible, a special hook for ripping; this procedure cannot be carried out with a regular knife. Cutting a carcass is carried out with a hunting knife with a strong and long blade, although such a knife is universal and can be used for other purposes. Hunting knives for household work are radically different from others; their wide blade, similar to a hatchet, even allows you to plan a tree or chop off branches. When purchasing a hunting knife, it is extremely important to hold it in your palm and feel the handle: it should fit comfortably and freely in your hand, providing you with maximum comfort.

Fishing knives

Fishing knives are designed primarily for cutting and gutting fish. And other operations necessary during fishing: cutting tangled rope, fishing line, cutting branches, etc. A distinctive feature of fishing knives is their relatively narrow blade.

The versatility of a fishing knife makes it convenient both as a tourist knife and in everyday life.

Fillet knives

Fillet knives are designed for filleting fish. Thanks to its excellent flexibility and increased sensitivity, the blade will feel the bones of even small fish and the fillet will turn out to be of high quality. When bending, the knife holds not only a straight angle, but also an acute angle. A stainless steel blade is better suited for fruits and vegetables, and a Damascus blade for fish. Use the knife for its intended purpose and it will serve you for a very long time!

Survival knives

Survival knives, which are items of hunting equipment, are intended for use in conditions of commercial or sport hunting as hunting knives, and for use in difficult (extreme) hiking conditions, travel and sports tourism, including its special types ( mountaineering and water tourism). Survival knives are classified as civilian bladed weapons. The main purpose of survival knives as weapons is to defeat and finish off an animal (including a sea animal or large fish), and to protect itself in the event of its attack or an attack by an armed person.

Survival knives and their accessories are also used for economic purposes as a set of tools and devices to ensure a person’s survival in extreme hiking conditions and in commercial or sport hunting (for example, when: collecting firewood; clearing a passage or site; setting up a tent or hut; cutting up carcasses and skinning; fishing; orienteering, etc.). A survival knife that is truly worth the money they ask for it must have a number of essential qualities and characteristics. Thus, a person, finding himself in a critical situation and having such a knife at his disposal as his only tool, should be able to perform all types of work that ensure his survival on enemy territory or far in the taiga.

One of the successful options of this class is the Austrian Feldmesser Glock 78,81

Survival knives. Short review.

A relatively new direction in the development of modern knives, which appeared only in the second half of the 20th century, was the creation of survival knives.

Of course, any knife should ideally serve for the safety of its owner and ensure his survival in extreme conditions. For example, Bowie-style knives common in North America, or large hunting knives and “bear” daggers common in Russia, had this function. There were also more active attempts to create a universal knife - a weapon-tool.

So, for example, hunting sets appeared in which an auxiliary knife, and sometimes more than one, was located in the sheath of a large knife. In some models, the auxiliary tool was located in the handle. In this case, they tried to combine the best features of folding and non-folding knives in one design.

Such knives were launched as hunting knives, but during the First World War, Puma produced military knives made according to a similar design. Since using such knives turned out to be not very convenient, attempts were made to find another solution to this problem. For example, in one of the German designs, a folding knife was built into the handle of an ordinary bayonet, which was simply removed from it when used. The design of the bayonet itself became simpler, and it could be used separately or with a folding knife.

Another model was created by the famous designer of automatic weapons M.T. Kalashnikov. His knife has a large blade built into the folding knife design. If the large blade was not needed, it could be removed.

The most successful combination of versatility and combat properties occurs in the knives of the series "Werewolf".

Civil modification of the Werewolf-2 knife

In them, the blade and the tool part are located between two hinged handles. By throwing the handles onto the tool or combat part of the blade, you can get a weapon or a universal tool. The design is simple and reliable.

As you can see, the design team worked quite actively to create a universal survival knife. However, modern survival knives, which have proven themselves well in normal conditions, turned out to be of little use for use in specific environmental conditions.

For example, KA-BAR knives rusted badly in a humid climate, and the inlaid leather handle and leather sheath quickly failed. To create reliable knives, new technologies and materials were required. This is how survival knives appeared, the design of which was based on classic models, but was made as utilitarian as possible.

Such a knife was made of high-alloy stainless steel, had a developed guard, often carrying a tool load, and a hollow cylindrical handle with a sealed container for placing the NAZ. Typically, the handle is made of light alloy to make it lighter. The blade on the butt has a shock tooth or saw.

This knife is durable, versatile, and can be used as a combat or hunting knife. In this design, functionality and reliability are sacrificed for ease of use. Gradually, survival knives came into fashion and became a special class of modern knives with their own design features.

A survival knife often comes in a set. So, in addition to the knife, the kit includes a fairly complex sheath and an auxiliary flat skinner knife. The sheath can contain cutters, saws, slingshots, launchers for signal flares, and auxiliary elements of the NAZ, such as a signal mirror and a sharpening whetstone. The need to use the sheath as a survival element, and not just to house the knife itself, led to the fact that the sheath began to be equipped with quick-release loops that allow you to remove the knife from your belt without removing the belt.

The knife itself can be used as a saw, and is often strong enough to be used as a fulcrum. There are models in which special pins are screwed into the guard, turning it into a “cat”, and in the handle there is an “earring” for attaching a climbing carabiner or rope. This knife can be used for belaying and overcoming various obstacles.

The placement of the NAZ in the handle can also be designed in different ways. In the simplest version, the handle is made of an oval cross-section and usually with finger protrusions. This is how new models of the company's survival knife are made. The NR-2 and Katran knives are made in the same way, although they are not survival knives, but have a handle design with a hollow internal sealed volume.

At the same time, the handle itself is non-metallic, and the power part is a metal case with a sealed plug. There is an option when the handle is a separate part, and it can even be made of plastic. The base of the shank has a longitudinal cutout and ends with a thread. A cylindrical container with a NAZ is placed in the longitudinal cutout and a handle is pushed in, which is pressed by a metal top that is screwed onto the threaded part of the shank.

The advantage of this design is the possibility of making handles from non-metal and increasing overall strength due to the shank running the entire length of the handle. The downside is great complexity. Another option to make the handle more comfortable is to locate the NAZ in the internal volume of the flat handle, which is covered on both sides with linings. As a rule, one pad is fixed rigidly, and the second with screws. In this case, you can get to the NAZ only with a screwdriver or a special object that replaces it.

There are other split handle options. However, recently there have been trends towards simplifying the design of survival knives and reducing their size and functionality. The handle in such knives is usually made with a screw-mounted handle, and the NAZ is absent or placed in a pocket on the sheath. The emergence of “skeletal” type survival knives can be considered as the extreme point of this development.

In their pure “skeletal” form they are rarely used. Basically, for ease of use, the knife handle is wrapped with a cord. Such a knife can also be used for other specific work performed, for example, under water. This is facilitated by the presence of a serrated sharpening, which occupies part of the blade, and in addition to its main cutting function, the knife can replace a saw to a limited extent.

Some models of such knives are even made not of steel, but of titanium alloys. The reason for this specific approach is the reduction in the weight of the knife and the increased resistance of titanium to aggressive environmental influences; minus - less hardness and durability of the cutting edge.

There are also original designs. For example, Cold Steel produces two models of a simplified BUSHMAN knife, made of thin 3-mm steel. The handle of the knife is also rolled from this metal and can be used to place the NAZ or attach an additional shaft.

There are skeleton-type models that are actually designed as enlarged skinners that come with a survival knife. The advantage of this approach is increased functionality, but there are many more disadvantages affecting ease of use.

If we recall the first models of survival knives developed by the famous knife maker Rendal, they were of medium size and bore little resemblance to the oversized cutlasses that survival knives later became. Therefore, now the design of survival knives simply largely returns to its original idea. Unfortunately, the fashionable theme promoted by Hollywood and public interest played a cruel joke on survival knives. Many counterfeits of models from well-known companies, made from lower quality materials, have appeared on the market.

In addition, models began to appear in which individual elements of various knives were used, without taking into account the possibility of their actual performance. Such products from a serious knife for special purposes turned a survival knife into consumer goods of not the best quality. In addition, the quality of the knife was negatively affected by the desire of manufacturers to incorporate as many useful functions into the design as possible.

The result was heavy, inconvenient knives, unsuitable for any field of activity. Universalization always harms specialization, and here it is important to stop in time, without crossing the line beyond which a multifunctional product becomes inoperable.

Over the course of their development, survival knives have come to be used in different ways. So, in addition to combat purposes, they are used in extreme situations and are included in various NAZ kits, for example, those used in aviation. At the same time, classic designs can be used as a basis for creating a knife.

For example, the F-1 knife from Fallkniven, used as a survival knife in the Swedish Air Force, can be used as a small hunting knife. The absence of a NAZ set in the handle or sheath in aviation knives can be explained by the fact that such a knife is usually part of a whole set of equipment placed on a special vest or in a special backpack.

The design feature is a small but powerful blade. Blade length 100 mm with thickness 4 mm. The handle is made of rubber-plastic with a small one-sided protrusion that serves as a guard. The sheath can be made of different materials: leather with a flap covering the handle, synthetic textiles or elastic, impact-resistant plastic. The use of a traditional design as a survival knife, improved for northern conditions, but made at a new technological level, is common and completely justified. In many ways, this is a tribute to traditional approaches.

For example, the American pilot's knife resembles a smaller version of the KA-BAR knife, on the butt of which there is a fine-toothed saw. Therefore, a modern survival knife is a very broad concept and not tied to specific design solutions. What all these models have in common is the ability to survive with such a knife in the most extreme conditions.

For example, a knife can be quickly turned into a more powerful weapon by attaching it to a stick, turning it into a heavy spear, or by attaching an auxiliary skinner with a lanyard, using it as a light dart or spear. A knife with a shorter handle can be used as a cleaver or machete, increasing its chopping ability due to the length of the handle. Knives with a hollow handle are mounted on shafts and additionally secured with rope. Skeleton type knives are simply tied to the shaft. A large survival knife mounted on a strong shaft can easily serve as a hunting spear.

The concrete jungle of big cities is sometimes more dangerous than the tropical jungle. Therefore, special models for survival in urban conditions appear. This knife organically combines the capabilities of a self-defense bladed weapon and a universal tool. Usually folding knives are used for this, but interest has also been noted in non-folding models.

Their advantage is readiness for instant use and greater structural reliability. For example, the Commandos knife has a small blade with a serrated sharpening in the front part. It is carried in a sheath, and the sheath is designed for concealed carrying of the knife and its instant snatching. To do this, a clip is attached to the handle of the knife, and on the sheath itself there is a special belt loop for fixing it.

When you flip the handle onto the blade, the tool part of the knife is exposed. Despite its small dimensions, the knife can perform many functions: a wood saw, a saw-file for metal, a screwdriver, a can opener, a wrench, a ruler, wire cutters and mini-pliers. As you can see, a very impressive set for all occasions. The presence of a clip allows you to carry the knife with the handle down, at a certain angle. This not only increases stealth and the ability to quickly extract, but also does not interfere with driving.

Another interesting modification of the urban survival knife is professional rescue knives.

Usually these are small knives with a highly tool-rich blade. It can use replaceable working elements, various types of saws and cutting edges.

As a rule, the blade of such a knife has a rounded front part or ends with a special tool, a flat-head screwdriver or a special key.

The creation of such special knives is a fairly new direction that has a steady tendency to develop.

Material taken from the site www.taryar.narod.ru

My knives...

I am not a fanatic about edged weapons, but I almost always use knives on my hikes and rafting trips, fishing and earlier hunting, which I like in appearance and excellent quality. Quite often I gave the knives I used as gifts to my friends, especially when I noticed that they liked them. At the top of the photo I have placed three of my samples that I plan to use in the future.

№1

Already familiar to you Austrian Feldmesser Glock 78 is a survival knife.

Additionally, I attached about a dozen small-sized matches to the scabbard in waterproof micro bags, as well as 6 more special hunting matches for making fire in difficult conditions. In addition, under the tape there are several flies, 3 reliable hooks and a cord for catching fish. I wrapped ALL this “wealth” with strong adhesive tape in two layers, which can also be used as a bandage or plaster for injuries. Under the tape there is still a very strong oiled nylon thread several meters long. A knife can be used as a harpoon if you tie it to a long and strong wooden pole; in the same way, you can make a spear or pike to repel the attack of a large predator. The knife can also be used, if necessary, as a chisel for making a raft.

№2

This is an everyday knife MORAKNIV often used for various purposes by the famous Swedish company MORA.

Knife Companion black It has a very sharp and strong blade, a handle made of special rubber, a fluorescent-colored sheath with a belt mount, and it has been tested many times that the knife is very securely fixed in the sheath. This knife is very convenient for performing any camp work: peeling fish and vegetables, cutting bread and sausage, cutting off thick branches and preparing kindling for a fire, and much more. Does not require constant adjustment of the blade on the block. It has many modifications specifically for adventurers... Blade made of cold-rolled stainless steel Sandvik. Fluorescent colored sheath with belt clip.

№3

I don’t know the brand of this knife, my son gave it to me mainly for hunting.

I assume that this Damascus steel knife will be good for skinning any large trophies: deer, elk, bear, etc.

A knife blade is considered good if it has withstood the cutting of the first carcass of a large animal without straightening the blade.
Tests of products that were carried out in the hunting farm of the Izhmash concern showed the following results:

A) Damascus steel can withstand cutting 2 wild boars and 1 elk or 130 kg of pike without adjusting the blade.

B) When testing carbon damask and stainless damask steels, no restrictions were identified, because During testing, the available quantity of animal carcasses was found to be insufficient for these steels.

C) All research and testing of Damascus and damask steels was carried out strictly on a scientific basis in the laboratories of NIIMT (Research Institute of Metallurgical Technology) in Izhevsk and the laboratories of the Izhmash concern. All results and conclusions on the properties of steels are summarized and certified by test reports and photographs of professional commissions.

№4

My smallest brand pocket knife "Opinel" No. 08

Lightweight, comfortable, sharp, the lock is simple and very reliable, the handle is “warm”, the blade is made of stainless steel... I often used folding knives, this one turned out to be the most convenient for me.