It is known that darts serve to ensure that the modeled product “fits” the figure. Note that the darts on the model can take any position, but the standards for their translation remain the same.
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Exists two ways to transfer darts- graphic and pattern method. The graphic method is performed using the method of arcs and serifs. It is quite labor-intensive, so when modeling they mainly use the translation of darts using the template method (later, we will consider the graphical method). That is, they transfer the base pattern onto paper and use the cuts to model the darts.
Transfer of grooves on the shoulder base
On the shoulder base, darts can be directed from the shoulder, side seams, from the armhole or neckline, from the waistline or from the middle seam of the part. The main thing is to follow three rules:
- The tuck solution must be preserved.
- The top of the new dart should point toward the center of the bulge.
- If a tuck is transferred to the location of another tuck, then the tuck solutions are summed up.
(1). We take the template for the shoulder base - it is the upper part of the constructed pattern for the base of the dress.
(2). It has a chest dart - the color of the lines is red, a waist dart - the color of the lines is blue and the center of the bulge is a green circle.
(3). Let us dwell in more detail on the translation of the chest dart into the side line.
We determine the location of the new dart line on the template - the blue line. We make sure that the second rule of transferring darts is observed.
(4). We cut the template along this line, we get two parts.
(5). Part 2 remains stationary, part 1 is moved, closing the chest dart and at the same time opening the dart in the side line.
(6). We outline a new contour and get a product with a dart in the side seam.
(7). Similarly, you can transfer the chest dart into the neck line,
(8). In the armhole line,
(9). Using the previously described method, you can remove all the darts in the neckline. When translating, remember the rules for translating darts.
(10). During further sewing, we can create folds or gathers on the neckline; for this we will draw a new contour of the neckline.
(eleven). We can also remove the waist darts to the side. To do this, we need to set aside the size of the dart opening from the side line and draw a new side line.
Thus, on the shoulder base, you can transfer darts to any seam, the main thing is to follow the translation rules.
Partial translation
Also, we can completely get rid of the chest dart by partially transferring it to the neckline, shoulder line and armhole. You just need to remember that such a pattern without a chest dart is used when cutting a loose-fitting product. Women with a large size always need darts so that the item does not look like a bag.
First, let's measure the tuck solution. Draw cut lines to the neckline and armhole line.
We reduce the chest dart opening to 1.0 - 1.5 cm. On the neckline, we move the template along the cut line by 1.0 - 1.5 cm, and transfer the entire remaining breast dart opening to the armhole line.
(2). As a result, we get a new pattern outline.
Transfer of darts based on trousers and skirts
Most often in these products, if the silhouette is planned to be tight-fitting, it is not possible to completely get rid of darts. Darts are converted into shaped lines.
The exception is the jeans pattern. The cut of jeans differs significantly from regular trousers in that they are more tight-fitting, so some changes are made to the pattern of the base of the trousers. As a rule, there is a dart on the front half of the trousers; there should not be one on jeans. To do this, we partially transfer the dart to the middle and side seams.
REMEMBER: if the dart is moved only to the middle seam, a bubble will form at the end of the zipper. This happens because the middle seam line is strongly deviated from the vertical. At the same time, if you remove the entire dart into the side seam, then a strong narrowing occurs along the side line. Therefore, the recess solution is divided in half (red and blue lines).
We've covered the basics translation of darts. Their further modeling depends on imagination, the main thing is to follow the rules for translating darts.
When creating a new style and using the technique of moving the dart, you must always remember the following: in all positions and types of the chest dart, its top should always be directed to the center of the bulge of the chest.
And one more important information. To achieve smoothness in the chest area, the dart is shortened by 1 - 3 cm if its sides are directed towards the shoulder seam, towards the neckline and into the armhole. And by 2 - 4 cm, if its sides are directed to the side seam, to the waist line and to the center of the front.
If you have not yet created a pattern for the base of the dress, we recommend using our
Moving the dart into the armhole.
To do this, copy the upper part of the shelf from the pattern of the base of the dress onto a sheet of paper.
We set aside approximately 1/3 of the length of the armhole from the side line and place point D.
Note: Dividing into 3 parts is just one of many options. Can be divided into 2 parts, you can select any point on the armhole line.
Let's continue. We connect point G7 with a straight line to point D and cut the bodice along this line.
We close the chest dart, thereby opening a new dart along the cut line G7D.
Do not forget to shorten the resulting dart by 1 - 2 cm to achieve smoothness when processing the bulge in the chest area. To do this, we shift the top of the dart from the center by 1 - 2 cm and connect this top with straight lines to the ends of the dart.
Methods for developing patterns of different styles by moving the chest dart provide enormous opportunities for creating a variety of models of women's dresses when used skillfully.
The location of the dart depends on the style, in other words, on the designer’s plan, i.e. from you.
Let's consider the main options for the location of the chest dart. Let's start simple.
One of the main structural elements of women's clothing is the dart, which is necessary to give the product the correct appearance, i.e. desired shape. To a greater extent, this applies to light women's dresses, where the volume of the chest is formed exclusively due to breast darts. These darts can be moved on the bodice in any direction, in accordance with the style of the product : to the middle of the front, on the waistline, in the side seam, in the armhole, in the neckline, in the yoke, in reliefs, in drapery, in undercuts, etc. With skillful use of this technique, you can develop a huge number of different models of women's clothing.
Main– no matter in which direction you move the dart, its center should always be directed towards the highest point of the chest. In our drawing it is indicated by point G7.
Before you start designing, you must copy the drawing of the base of the dress onto a sheet of paper, or rather the part of it that you are going to change.
Let's start simple.
Moving the dart to the side line(in the side seam).
To do this, copy the upper part of the shelf from the pattern of the base of the dress onto a sheet of paper.
We move the chest dart on the base pattern closer to the armhole line by 3 cm and deepen it by 2 cm. To do this, from point B7, continuing the shoulder line, set aside 3 cm and place point 3.
Draw a vertical line from it down, extending it 2 cm below the level of point G7 and place point 2.
From point B9 along the shoulder line we set aside 3 cm, we get point 31.
Rice. 5
From point 2 through point 31 we draw a straight line. From point 2 as from the center through point 3 we draw an arc until it intersects with a straight line. We denote the intersection point as 32. We connect points P5 and 32.
Fig.6
We divide the T4P lateral line into three equal parts. We designate the upper division point as 33 and connect it to point 2.
Rice. 7
We cut the shelf along the marked line and move it apart, while closing the chest dart.
Rice. 8
The dart along the waist line can be moved 3 - 4 cm towards the side line.
We correct the shoulder seam with a straight line.
Vera Olkhovskaya
This lesson on cutting techniques is quite simple and can be recommended for beginner couturiers who have already learned how to take measurements and remember their letter designations.
Don't forget to use the table for taking measurements, which you can download for free on Vera Olkhovskaya's website. To do this, click on the table image and enlarge it, save it on your device.
To ensure that the pattern for the base of the back does not overlap the pattern for the base of the shelf, check the width of the paper sheet. It should be no less than the width of the back and shelf combined:
Sat + 4 cm
Back base
We start with vertical and horizontal lines.
We will consider the left cut of the sheet of paper to be the middle line (vertical) of the back (Fig. 1).
Then we draw the initial (first, initial, upper) line, departing from the lower horizontal section of the sheet
Di + 3 cm
Of course, this horizontal and subsequent ones must be strictly parallel to each other and strictly perpendicular to the midline of the back.
We measure from the starting line down Ds and draw a waist line.
From waist up
D boch minus 1 cm
This is for the barrel height level.
From waist down 18 cm– hip level.
To determine the bottom line from the original down - Di or from the waist down Du, depending on what measurement you chose to take.
The horizontal backrest is finished.
Next, set the width of the back at the level of the barrel (Fig. 2):
Shs + 1 cm,
for kinky figures -
Shs + 1.5 cm
There, measure the width of the back to the side seam:
1/2(Cr + 4) minus 2 cm
Width of the sprout - according to the original to the right
1/3Сш + 0.5 cm
The height of the sprout is down the midline of the back:
1/3 the width of the sprout
Shoulder cut. We need to draw two intersecting arcs.
The first arc is from the lateral point of the germ with a radius
Dp + vt
(in many cases, a tuck is not needed and you can get by with a fit 1 cm)
The second arc is from the midpoint along the waist with a radius Military industrial complex. If there is a shoulder pad, add more 1 cm, that is, the radius will be
Vpk + 1 cm
To design the armhole
From the back width point (red cross) – perpendicular 7-8 cm.
Set aside at hip level
1/2(Sat + Pb) minus 2 cm
Draw the side cut with a straight line.
Shelf
If you are building the base of the shelf on the same sheet, extend the horizontal lines of the waist, hips and bottom (Fig. 3). If on another sheet, copy the horizontal lines for the shelf pattern onto a new sheet.
Then take the measurement from the waist up DPT and draw the original horizontal line for the shelf.
Measure from the starting line of the shelf downwards Vg and draw a line for the height of the chest, then again from the original down - the line for the height of the armhole.
To find the height of the armhole of the shelf, you need to measure the distance from the midpoint of the sprout to the level of the barrel using the back drawing. The resulting distance should be reduced in accordance with the shelf armhole reduction table.
And set the already reduced value, as was said, down from the original line of the shelf.
The next stage, which can roughly be called “width limitation,” is shown in Fig. 4. The most important vertical of the shelf pattern is the semi-skid - this vertical corresponds to the midline of the human torso, passing through the jugular cavity and the navel.
We start from the original line of the shelf - measure the width of the neck along it from the half-skid:
Neck width = sprout width
Neck depth = neck width + 1 cm
The depth of the neck is measured, as you guessed it, down the half-skid.
We connect the resulting neck points with a smooth curve.
At chest height from half-skid, measure Rtsg and mark the center of the chest bulge - we will need this point to construct the chest dart.
From the half-skid at the armhole level, set aside the width of the chest:
Shg 2 + 0.5 or 1 cm.
From the resulting point upward, a perpendicular segment 4 – 5 cm. Its top is one of the points of the armhole and you can immediately make a bisector from the corner of the armhole (shaded in yellow) - 2 – 2.5 cm. We'll take care of the design later.
And again, from the half-skid at the armhole level, set aside the width of the front to the side seam:
1/2(Cr + Pb) + 2 cm
Measure at hip level
1/2(Sat + Pb) + 2 cm
Now, the shoulder section (Fig. 5).
We find the shoulder point at the intersection of two arcs:
The first arc is made from the side point of the neck with a radius dp;
The second - from the point of convexity of the chest with a radius Npp + 1 cm for the shoulder pad.
We connect the resulting shoulder point with the side neck point already existing on the original line.
The armhole will be formed according to the existing shoulder points, “5” and “2”. The last point of the armhole should be shifted up and towards the half-skid 1 cm.
Connect the “unit” to the point marked at hip level. This will give a preliminary line for the side cut, without a bust dart for now.
Construction of a “side” dart (Fig. 6).
To determine the dart solution, we compare the length of the back barrel and the length of the shelf barrel, measuring them according to the drawing.
We start the top line of the dart by stepping back down the side cut from the “unit” by 5 cm.
Next we measure 
tuck solution.
The top of the dart (Fig. 7) should not reach the center of the chest bulge on 2.5 cm– mark the point “2.5” and connect it with the points already existing on the side cut.
We align the sides of the dart along the longer side and build the missing section of the side seam (red dotted line).
All that remains is to draw out all the lines smoothly, lengthen the half-skid by 1 - 1.5 cm and add darts (see below and in Fig. 8).
If the dart is too large, then this base will not suit you.
But, of course, the waist dart of the front should be shifted from the center of the chest bulge to 2.5 cm to the side seam. This will place the waist dart underneath the top of the bust dart.
The finished pattern for the base with a side dart for the bust is shown in Fig. 9.
Patterns of dresses of popular styles this season in full size
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Hello, dear craftswomen!
Let's talk about darts, or more precisely about such modeling techniques as transferring a dart. Firstly, what is a tuck and why is it needed. The human figure is three-dimensional, has certain roundness, and when trying to attach a piece of fabric to it to create a robe, we see that the fabric does not lie evenly, bending around the bulges on the body. So, darts give us the opportunity to make a smooth transition from a bottleneck to a place with volume. A dart is excess fabric that is sewn in to give the desired shape to the product.
The main dart is a breast dart, used to go around the roundness of the chest, located on the shelf of the base pattern from the shoulder seam down to the center of the chest. In products, the chest dart can originate from any seam of the front (this is achieved using constructive modeling and is called transfer of the dart), but its end is always directed to the bulge of the chest. Of course, there are accepted canons for the location of darts - from the shoulder seam, from the side seam, from the armhole, from the waist - these are the main positions of the dart on the chest, but besides this, every designer tries to find a new, most successful, in his opinion, location of the dart, concludes it in relief, or undercut. In addition to the chest, there are also other darts, shoulder darts, to give roundness to the back of the product in the area of the shoulder and shoulder blades, waist darts - they remove excess fabric in the waist area and create a smooth transition to the hips. It is important to remember that it is better to split a too large dart opening into two, i.e. into two darts, this will help distribute the fabric more evenly and make it possible to properly iron the resulting slack at the end of the dart. Therefore, if you have any doubts about the size of the solution, it is better to use this technique.
Darts can also be converted into relief seams, which have the same constructive function, bend around the figure, repeating all the curves, but also give an aesthetic appearance to the product. Reliefs can also be simply decorative. Today we will look at ways to transfer darts, and analyze the most interesting cases using examples of dress models from modern designers. Having mastered the technique of transferring darts and shaping them into relief, you will be able to create your favorite clothing models yourself. It's not difficult at all! So let's get started.
For modeling we need a pattern - the basis of an adjacent or semi-adjacent silhouette. You can take it on our website. To do this, go to the main page of the site, select “basic dress pattern” and indicate your measurements. Then the program will instantly create your individual pattern and, after paying for the service, you can print it on a printer in A4 format and, by gluing the sheets together, get life-size base patterns. Instructions on how to do this are on the pattern generation page.
As already mentioned, the dart for the bulge of the chest can be placed at any seam of the front, the only condition is that its top always points to the highest point of the chest. (Important! The end of the dart is located 2 cm short of the center of the chest! That is, we finish the stitching seam of the dart, reducing it to nothing, 2 cm earlier). The figure shows examples of dart translation. 
The method of modeling reliefs is extremely simple, and the main condition is also that all relief lines pass through the center, the most convex part of the figure. (or close to it). For modeling we will need the same pattern - the basis. Next, the algorithm is as follows: on the pattern piece - the base, in this case we took the shelf piece, apply model relief lines, making sure that the lines pass through its top. We cut along the resulting lines, and by combining the parts of the pattern we obtain the required parts. 
Let's take a closer look at modeling the chest dart. For example, let’s take the transfer of a dart into a side seam. This location of the dart is the most invisible in clothing. In this example, a waist dart is also included in the side seam, but you should know that with a large bust size, this option is unacceptable, because the solution will be too large. 
In Victoria Begham's dress, the dart on the bulge of the chest is transferred to the side seam and is decorated in relief. Modeling takes place on a pattern - the basis of an adjacent silhouette. Modeling step 1 - draw a relief line passing through the center of the chest, making an incision from the top of the waist dart to the top of the chest, and close the dart. Step 2 - cut off the side part of the relief. Step 3 - outline the decorative seam line according to the sketch (photo). 
Let's consider transferring the dart to the neck line. On a Karen Millen dress, the chest dart moved asymmetrically into the boat neck looks very impressive. Let's size the simulation. We will need a pattern shelf - the basics of a close-fitting silhouette, link, reversal. For ease of modeling, we will close the chest dart and move it down to the waist. Let's outline a new neck line and pattern cut lines that coincide with the location of future folds (darts), remember that the ends of the cuts coincide with the tops of the darts (bust centers). Let's turn the pattern pieces so that the new darts open into the neckline. All! The resulting darts can be processed as shown in the red dress with allowances on the face, or they can be laid with soft folds. 
In the Victoria Beckam FALL 2013 RTW - NYFW dress, the dart is turned into a cut-off side. How to do it? First, mark the line of the barrel, transfer the tuck solution to the fitting into the seam of attaching the barrel to the middle part of the bodice. The barrel part needs to be cut off from the pattern. Next, we make a cut from the seam of the barrel stitching to the top of the chest dart and open its solution in this place, simply by turning the parts. 
In A-shaped silhouette models with folds at the bottom, the dart is moved down. To achieve uniformity of the folds, it is not enough and it would be incorrect to simply expand the product along the bottom due to the side seams. Therefore, downward translation of the darts is used. 
Let's take the whole pattern-basis of the dress, together with the skirt, and make a cut from the bottom line up to the top of the dart, open it, turning the pattern pieces and closing the previous location of the dart. Additionally, you can add an extension along the side seams, but not more than 10 cm. 
Let's consider transferring the dart into the side seam and shaping it into relief. And again using the Victoria Beckam dress as an example. Step 1 - use a cut to connect the tops of the waist and chest darts. Step 2 - open both solutions at the highest point of the neckline, at the place of the chest dart. Let's outline the lines of the relief passing through the center of the chest, and the line of the decorative seam, based on the sketch. Step 3 - cutting along the relief line, close the dart at the highest point of the neckline, it will open in the relief line, outline the model lines of the neckline and armhole. 
Transformation of the chest dart into a fantasy relief in an Elie Saab dress. We proceed in the same way. First, we outline the line of the cutting barrel, and move the chest dart down to the waist. Next, we mark the relief line according to the sketch and, having cut along it, we transfer the tuck solution to the barrel stitching line, attaching the resulting piece to the middle part, see the figure. 
In Sarah Jessica Parker's dress, the dart is turned into relief from the shoulder. Everything is simple here - on the pattern-base of the shelf we draw a relief line, cut and connect the parts, we get the central part of the shelf and the side. On the side part we will mark a cutting line, as shown in the figure; as a result, we have an imitation of a sundress and a top worn inside. 
In the charming dress of American TV presenter Nicole Scherzinger, the darts on the bodice are moved to the middle seam. Modeling is carried out like this, using cuts running from the middle of the front to the tops of the chest and waist darts, the solutions are opened in a new location, then you need to cut out 2 parts of the front of the dress with a seam in the center of the dress. 
TRANSFER OF THE CHEST DART FROM THE SHOULDER SEAM TO THE SIDE SEAM
This is a very simple process - and it will take you no more than 2-3 minutes.
This is what our pattern looks like with darts on the shoulder seam. 
If we leave this dart here and close it, it will create the bulge we need for our chest, BUT on our dress there will be a not very attractive seam in the center of each shoulder. We don’t need this, so we will move the dart to a less accessible place - to the side seam.
Take a pencil and a ruler. On the pattern, from the bottom edge of the armhole downwards, measure 5-7 cm - put a dot in this place. 
Now we find the top of our chest dart - here it is. And we draw a line connecting the top of the chest dart with the point that we measured on the side line of the pattern. 
We take scissors and make a cut along this line WITHOUT REACHING 2 CM to the top of the dart. 
Now we manually close the dart on the shoulder and a new dart automatically opens in the very place where we just made the cut. That's all - all that remains is to seal the old dart with tape (so that it does not open back). 
So we have a new dart on the side seam under the armpit. As you can see in the photo below, this new dart perfectly performs its function - that is, just like the old one, it creates a voluminous bulge for your chest. 
And now you can continue cutting your dress, with full confidence that the new dart will fit perfectly into the shape of your bust, and the bodice of your dress will fit you well.
Our lesson has come to an end. I hope it was informative and helped you understand such a simple method of clothing modeling as transferring a dart. Good luck and creative mood!
