is one of the characteristics that everyone has heard about, but few can give a clear definition of what it is. However, when buying jewelry as an investment or as a gift for a loved one, we want to be sure that it is of excellent quality. And then we begin to wonder what the characteristics of diamonds are, how to distinguish them from each other and how to choose a diamond so as not to make a mistake.
Classification of diamonds by purity (clarity)
The purity of a diamond and its clarity are the same evaluation criterion, which in English is called Clarity. Depending on the origin and place of purchase, the clarity of the diamond on the tag can be indicated either by English letters and numbers, or simply by numbers.
The first classification is the value according to the American GIA (Gemological Institute of America) system. According to it, there are 11 classes that indicate the degree of purity of a diamond. The class depends on the number of defects on the outer surface of the stone and inside it, their volume and degree of visibility. External defects are less significant than internal ones, since they can be eliminated by grinding. The GIA system is most often used.
The Russian system is more complex. It takes into account not only the number and size of defects, but also the weight of the stone. The clarity of a diamond on the Russian scale is indicated by a number from 1 to 6 for small stones with 17 facets, from 1 to 9 for minerals with 57 facets, and from 1 to 12 for medium and large stones. Typically this characteristic looks like 4/6B, where clarity is indicated under the number 6. 4 in this case is an indicator of color, and B stands for class B cut quality.
If you are thinking about how to determine the quality of a diamond, first of all pay attention to this designation. A certificate issued by the GIA laboratory is the best guarantee of the specified clarity of the stone. Specialists working using this scale use standards for determination, whereas in the Russian system, diamonds are assessed based on verbal descriptions.
The Russian scale, which determines the clarity of diamonds, and the more common global GIA system are easily comparable to each other. Experienced jewelers can determine the clarity of a diamond by eye, without using reference books. Of course, in most cases this requires a magnifying glass with 10x magnification, but some groups of minerals have inclusions that are visible to the naked eye.
Find out what is considered good diamond clarity: here is an approximate correspondence table, which presents the scale of the Russian and American systems for determining diamond clarity.
| Russian system | GIA | Decoding | |
| Small (up to 0.29 carats) | Large (over 0.29 carats) | ||
| 1 | 1 | IF | An absolutely pure stone that has no inclusions even under a 10x magnifying glass. It is practically not found in nature. |
| 2 | 2 | VVS1 | Three or less inclusions of very, very small sizes, light in color, difficult to distinguish with a magnifying glass. |
| 3 | 3 | ||
| 4 | VVS2 | ||
| 4 | 5 | VS1 | Three dark inclusions or less, or no more than six light inclusions of very small size, visible through a magnifying glass. |
| 5 | 6 | VS2 | |
| 7 | SI1 | Eight or fewer inclusions of any color that can be seen under a magnifying glass or to the trained naked eye. They are considered the most profitable purchases among ordinary consumers. | |
| 7a | SI2 | ||
| 6 | 8 | SI3 | |
| 9 | I1 | Many dark and light inclusions of large sizes that are visible to the naked eye, as well as cracks. They are not usually used in quality jewelry. | |
| 7 | 10 | I2 | |
| 8 | 11 | I3 | |
| 9 | 12 | ||
So, if you decide to buy a diamond, then its clarity should be at least SI3 according to GIA. This criterion is one of the main ones that indicate the qualities inherent in. Choose carefully and be sure to ask for certificates if you doubt the clarity stated by the seller.
Other properties of the stone
In a jewelry store, carefully examine the tag that comes with the diamond jewelry you choose. It should indicate not only the clarity, but also the type of stone itself. The one we are interested in in Russia is designated by the letters Br. The number of stones in the product is placed before the type, that is, 3Br means that there are three diamonds in the jewelry. Next comes the weight of the inserts in carats (of course, 2 diamonds are better than 5, with a total weight of, for example, 0.3 carats). After this, you can see the letters “Kr” in the line. This means that the cut of the mineral is standard round. There may be other letters instead of them, for example “G” (pear), “Pr” (princess), “M” (marquis), etc.
Another number that is usually paired with clarity (for example, 4/7, where 7 is clarity) is the color of the diamond. In Russia, diamond colors are divided into groups, and their quantity also depends on the weight and number of facets, just like clarity. Thus, the color characteristic can consist of from 4 to 9 groups.
In other countries, the color of diamonds in documents must be deciphered based on the laws of a particular state. But abroad there is no longer any division into groups based on color and weight. The correlation between the Russian and any of the international systems is quite doable for an experienced person.
What color are diamonds?
A real diamond can be white, green, or blue. Fancy colored diamonds (Fancy, bright colors other than white) are highly prized in the jewelry market. The most expensive colored diamonds, each of which is a unique work of nature and art, are bright red.
However, if, say, you inherited a diamond ring from your grandfather, and its color is not white (not transparent), do not rush to rejoice. It may just be a cloudy white. Typically these stones are yellowish or brownish in color. These are not colored diamonds and are generally considered not as valuable as completely clear diamonds.
The most famous types of diamonds
To simplify our story a little, we will dilute it with a description of the most popular stones.
Diamond 1/1
This is an excellent quality mineral that is very rare. Collectors hunt for it, and a certain public, consisting of fabulously wealthy individuals, seeks to purchase it as a financial investment or an indicator of their high status.
Diamond 2/2
Slightly more common than the previous one, and slightly less valuable. Let us remind you that it has small sparse spots, but they cannot be seen without a magnifying glass.
Diamond 3/3, 4/4 and others
They are already more popular among ordinary buyers. A diamond's clarity of 4/4 or 3/3 is an indication that there are defects, but they still cannot be seen with the naked eye. Therefore, in the eyes of anyone other than an experienced jeweler, such a piece will be flawless - but its cost is much lower.
It is far from a fact that in any jewelry store you will come across a diamond with a high level of clarity and good color. You need to choose places to buy wisely, consult with experienced people, and most importantly, decide in advance what kind of stone you need. Then you will be able to get a valuable acquisition, the quality of which no one will ever doubt.
Characteristics of diamonds that you should pay attention to first
Typically, independent certification of stones in many cities around the world is carried out by special gemological certification centers and private gemologists. But no matter how much you trust the experts, when choosing diamonds, additional knowledge will not hurt you. Of course, without significant practice, it is unlikely that you will be able to see all the subtleties of the stone you are purchasing, but, nevertheless, you will not get lost in all these letters and numbers after familiarizing yourself with the basic information.
So, the value of a cut diamond is influenced by four main characteristics, which add up to: "4C" system. This diamond grading system includes the following concepts: “carat” (ct, k) - weight, “color” - color, “clarity” - clarity and “cut” - cut. The combination of these characteristics determines the price of the stone.
Estimating the value of a diamond.
There are quite a few subtleties in this process, but in general terms we can say that the cost of diamonds, with other similar characteristics, always increases exponentially with the weight of the stone. The lower the number (or the closer to the beginning of the alphabet the letter) characterizing the color and purity of the diamond, the more expensive it is. The quality, appearance and proportionality of the cut are also important in judging. Fancy diamonds are graded according to a special scale. Next are the nuances of the characteristics:
Carat (weight).
Measuring the weight of a diamond in grams is impractical. In nature (and on sale), cut diamonds weighing even around 1 gram (5 carats) are extremely rare and very expensive, and small and medium-sized stones (up to 0.2 grams, which exactly correspond to 1 k) are much larger. Therefore, since ancient times, a constant value for measuring the weight of a diamond has been adopted, based on the weight of 1 seed of the Carib tree “carat”, equivalent to 0.2 grams.
For convenience, all stones weighing up to 0.29 carats are considered small, over 0.3 and up to 0.99 carats - medium, and more than 1 carat - large. By the way, the term “solitaire” refers exclusively to large diamonds. And proper names (“Korloff Noir” - 88 ct, “Great Mogul” - 279 ct, “Orlov” - 190 ct, etc.) are given to cut diamonds weighing more than 25 carats. The weight of a diamond less than 1/100 (0.01) carat is not specified and is considered diamond chips.
Transitional masses of diamonds.
Although as the mass of the stone increases, its value increases, this process occurs unevenly (intermittently). A sharp jump in price occurs at certain values (0.3 ct, 0.5 ct, 1 ct 1.5 ct, 2 ct, etc.), which are called “transitional diamond weights”. Knowing this pattern will allow the buyer to save money by purchasing, say, a stone of 0.48 ct rather than 0.5 ct - the difference in weight (and visually) is negligible, but in price it is very significant.
Color
Often, the average person perceives the color of a diamond as “steel,” “white,” or “transparent.” For a specialist, all the nuances of colors and shades are important - because of this, the price of a stone can rise and fall with a huge difference. An important condition for determining the color of a diamond is a 10-fold magnification and comparison with a standard using the selection method, since the difference between “neighboring” colors can be very arbitrary. It is even more difficult to determine the color of the stone in the product - its removal is required for certification.
The color of a cut diamond can range from very rare, virtually colorless (“pure water”), through a scale of shades of grayish and yellowish, to brownish.
A separate type are “Fancy” diamonds, which have obvious rich shades - black, brown, green, pink, blue (the most unique ones are bright red and blue). They are extremely rare and are valued on a different scale; they are often incredibly expensive, outshining “white” diamonds. Here it is important to understand the difference between a unique fancy diamond and its cheap dark-colored “brother.”
Different countries use different diamond color scales, but they are easily comparable and have similar criteria.
Diamond color grading system in Russia.
In domestic jewelry practice, the weight of the stone matters, so three scales are used:
- for 17-facet cut diamonds, the number of colors is divided into 4 groups;
- for 57-facet diamonds from the “small” group (up to 0.29 ct), the number of colors varies from 1 to 7;
- For all other 57-facet diamonds (from 0.3 ct), a different scale is used, implying 9 color groups.
International Diamond Color Grading System .
The international system (GIA) differs from the domestic one in the absence of division of color scales according to the weight category of the stone.
All color values for "white" diamonds range from D to Z, where the price drops as the letter range increases to the right (and the color "darkens").
Fancy colors of diamonds are assessed according to a special scale of color standards, where, on the contrary, the darker, more saturated the shade, the more expensive the stone.
Clarity (purity/defectivity).
The quality and, accordingly, the price of a diamond is also affected by the presence (absence) of inclusions of natural origin inside the stone, such as bubbles, turbidity, cracks, inclusions, etc. This is a completely natural phenomenon for a mineral, but that is why a large number of diamonds have a very low cost. And only a small part of the mined material is turned into high-quality diamonds.
As with color determination, 10x magnification is used to determine whether a stone is defective. The degree of visibility of these inclusions through a magnifying glass, as well as with the naked eye, is a criterion for the purity of a diamond.
Domestic system for assessing the purity of diamonds.
Our system, just like with color, takes into account the weight and cut of the stone, only the ranges of groups increase slightly: diamonds with 17 and 33 facets - from 1 to 6, for diamonds with 57 facets - up to 0.29 carats from 1 to 9, for stones from 30 carats and above - from 1 to 12.
International system(GIA).
Unlike the letter (in alphabetical order) color designation, the international diamond clarity scale is indicated by an abbreviation with the addition of numbers (degrees) of defectiveness of the stones. For example, the ideal clarity of a diamond has the index “F” (Flowless – flawless, free of inclusions), and the worst option is indicated by the letter “I” (Imperfect – imperfect, with noticeable inclusions) with an index of 1, 2 or 3.
Cut (cut).
Processing the mined mineral is of course of paramount importance. In most cases, it depends on the professionalism of the jewelry maker whether a dull, shapeless stone will sparkle with amazing brilliance or become mediocre “glass.”
Rough diamonds can be cut in a number of ways, of which the round “brilliant” cut is the most popular, preferred in more than 90% of cases, despite its high cost. This type of cut allows from 57 (“classic”) to 17 (simplified version) facets. “Diamond” processing is the most optimal for revealing the unique optical properties of the stone.
All other types of cuts belong to the fancy group, which, in turn, are wedge (round-oval proportions) and stepped (angular, polygonal).
The most popular types of fancy cuts are: oval, marquise (oval with pointed top and bottom), pear (drop-shaped), princess (square), heart, baguette (rectangle), "emerald" (polygon).
Diamond cut quality groups.
The maximum brilliance and play of a diamond are achieved as a result of precise adherence to proportions, calculated according to a certain formula, which takes into account the following ratios: depth - diameter of the stone, diameter of the platform - diameter of the stone.
According to the GIA international system, the quality of diamond cutting can be: “Ideal” (ideal), “Premium” (excellent), “Very Good” (very good), “Good” (good), “Poor” (good quality). The foreign cutting quality system (geometric conformity, polishing quality, symmetry) is very convenient from a visual point of view, in contrast to the domestic one, denoted by letters:
- for Kr-57 – ranges from “A” to “G”;
- For Kr-17 and fantasy forms - “A” and “B”;
- non-traditional cut proportions are usually classified as group “B”.
By the way, often the proportions of a diamond cut are violated not because of the unprofessionalism of the master, but because of the need to preserve the size of the stone as much as possible.
What does the tag say?
After reviewing the characteristics that make up the price of a diamond, we can understand what is being said on the tag attached to the product. The characteristics of the stone are placed opposite the “insert” column. Typically the information is provided in the following form:
Br. Kr. 57 1 pc. 3/4 A 0.07 ct
“Br. Kr." - type of cut, here - “round diamond”;
“57” - number of faces;
"1 PC." - the number of stones with the same characteristics in the product;
“3/4” - color/purity;
“A” - cut quality;
“0.07 ct” - weight in carats.
In addition, the condition of the tag itself is important, because it is the “face” of the manufacturer, and reputable companies do not skimp on it. Usually the tag is located on a heavy-duty thread attached to the product, where there should be a seal-imprint with the manufacturer's emblem. It must contain information about the manufacturer and its legal address, name of the product, metal and sample, insert (characteristics of all stones), article number, regulatory documents, price for the entire product, size, and have a quality control department stamp.
Images: "© Depositphotos.com/Norman Chan"
The purity or transparency of a stone is the main criterion for determining its value, and a diamond is no exception. The cost of a diamond directly depends on the number of inclusions in the structure. Thus, a one-carat diamond with high quality indicators (for example, color/clarity = 1/1) costs around 30-35 thousand dollars, while a stone of the same weight with characteristics 8/12 is estimated at no more than one and a half thousand “green”. Diamond grading It is impossible to notice with the naked eye the difference in the clarity of a diamond with parameters 1/1 and the clarity of a diamond 3 3 or 3/4, Therefore, you should not chase a perfectly clean stone. A diamond with average characteristics looks exactly the same as a clean one. but it costs an order of magnitude more. Defects in a diamond can only be seen with a 10x magnifying glass or microscope. Stones with clarity (8,9,10,11,12) are rated very low; these are cheap diamonds, but their purchase can hardly be considered profitable. It is better to compromise in color than in the transparency of the stone. Diamonds of the lowest purity groups have inclusions (flaws) visible to the naked eye, and can easily break if handled carelessly. If you are going to buy a defective stone, you should try to choose one whose inclusions are concentrated in the lower part of the pavilion. But it is better to refrain from purchasing diamonds with numerous defects in the area of the platform (upper part), since the stone will greatly lose in brilliance and optical properties. Manufacturers strive to mask the flaws of stones using all known methods - often defective diamonds undergo a refining procedure. Thus, cracks in the structure of the mineral are filled with a special substance with a high refractive index. In addition, jewelers usually “hide” the defective area of the diamond under the setting so that it is not possible to evaluate the diamond without damaging the jewelry.Diamond 1 1
A “pure water” stone, also known as a 1/1 diamond, is the most expensive among other groups of diamond color and clarity. This is not surprising, since the 1/1 characteristic is assigned only to the best diamonds.Nature of diamond purity defects 1
Diamond clarity is the number of natural inclusions in the stone's structure.
They can be either internal (impossible to get rid of by polishing without losing weight) or external (surface defects that can be removed by polishing). A GIA grade 1 or IF diamond may have only minor external imperfections that can be easily removed with secondary polishing. As for internal defects, they may be present in the structure of the diamond, but are invisible when viewed through a 10x magnifying glass, and it is with its help that the diamond belongs to one or another purity group.
The best diamonds
1/1 diamonds are quite rare guests both in jewelry stores and in the bins of diamond dealers, and they cost several times more than stones of the same size, but with average characteristics. Usually such diamonds are ordered in advance.
Diamond 2 2
Diamonds with clarity 2 (GIA VVS1) are almost as rare in nature as the purest diamonds (quality group 1).
If the presence of internal defects is not allowed in stones with clarity 1, then diamonds with clarity 2/2 have inconspicuous light inclusions-dots.
Defectiveness of diamonds 2/2
It is almost impossible to see these tiny dots from the side of the site - if you look closely you can catch them by looking from the side of the pavilion. There should be no more than two dots, or the presence of a barely perceptible stripe is allowed. To purchase a diamond of purity group 2 or VVS1, you sometimes have to wait several years. If you are lucky enough to find a 2/2 diamond, do not rush to buy - First make sure the information on the certificate is correct. To protect yourself from scammers who pass off an “average” stone as a diamond of exceptional purity, only require a GIA certificate, the most authoritative world gemological center. Diamond 3 3
Diamonds with a clarity of 3 (or VVS1) open the category of the best-selling diamonds, both set and unset.
The fact is that it is diamonds of 3 - 6 clarity groups that are excellent for investment,
they show stable growth and are an excellent way to save money.
Of course, you should only buy stones weighing one carat or more.
Defectiveness of diamonds of purity group 3
Internal defects of a 3/3 diamond at 10x magnification appear as three inconspicuous light dots (clouds, feathers) or two dark dots (stripes) Of course, if you take a microscope, you can find other “imperfections” of the mineral, however, when determining the clarity and color of a diamond, only 10x magnification is used and no more.For the buyer, these minor flaws are completely invisible; he does not see the difference between,
for example, the first purity group and the third. The situation is similar with color assessment: experts, under certain lighting, compare the color of a diamond with standards, catch the slightest shades of color, blooms, and buyers examine stones with the naked eye and even with poor artificial lighting in the store. Naturally, there will be no difference between a 3/4 diamond and a 3/5 diamond. Diamond 4 4
One of the most popular diamonds are round diamonds with a clarity of 4 and a color of 3 or 4.
These diamonds (4/4) do not fall in price and give a good increase in value from year to year.
Of course, you shouldn’t expect super income, but they are perfect for preserving capital.
Diamonds with a clarity of 4 are generally not assigned controversial quality characteristics,
and for clear stones this is quite common (two different gemological centers may assign different characteristics to a stone).
Defectiveness of diamonds of purity group 4
It must be said that natural inclusions are a kind of “litmus test” that helps identify natural diamonds . The presence and authenticity of a diamond can be determined by the presence of natural defects.When determining cleanliness defects, their size is assessed,
number, nature, location, color of defects, etc. Looking at a diamond of 4th purity category through a magnifying glass, at least two minor inclusions can be seen in central area or 2-4 light dots (or 2 stripes) in other areas. For a 4/4 diamond, a small crack on the side is omitted. Diamond 5 5
A diamond with a clarity of 5 (VS1) belongs to the so-called medium clarity stones.
However, we need to make a small clarification: for a large diamond, transparency 5 is a very good characteristic,
but a small stone (up to 0.29 carats) with a purity of 5 is considered frankly defective.
This is due to the fact that in large diamonds the difference between clarity groups 3 and 5
(and the colors too) are impossible to notice with the naked eye,
but the difference in clarity for small diamonds is visually noticeable.
That is, visually a 4/5 diamond will be indistinguishable from a 5/3 diamond (with a weight of 1 carat),
and the difference in price will be significant.
Defectiveness of diamonds of purity group 5
The study of the location, size, and nature of inclusions is comparable to human fingerprint identification procedure. Synthetic diamonds do not have natural inclusions, their physical and chemical properties are now close to those of diamonds, therefore, only the defects of the stone prove its naturalness. Diamond clarity 5 is a small light cloud (or crack or 5-6 light lines) in the center of the stone. If the inclusions are in the peripheral part, then for a 5/5 diamond, three small cracks are allowed. Diamond 6
A clarity 6 (VS1) diamond is an excellent option for buyers who want the largest marketable diamond possible on a limited budget.
Diamonds of clarity group 6 are in great demand in European countries,
but for some reason Russian buyers are scared off by the number 6.
Meanwhile, a 6 6 diamond is an average quality diamond,
the most common quality group.
But stones weighing more than one carat in most cases look the same regardless of their clarity.
A 6th grade diamond is visually identical to purer stones.
The difference can only be seen with a 10x magnifying glass (this is about eight small light inclusions,
dispersed over the entire area of the stone,
or five dark dots or a small inclusion of graphite).
In natural light, these defects are completely invisible.
And since there is no visual difference, why overpay?
Diamond 7
Diamonds of purity group 7 (SI1) are characterized by multiple natural inclusions in the structure.
In this case, the characteristics of the diamonds will be the same, but the nature of the inclusions will be different.
Everyone chooses what they like. We can only advise one thing: if you are offered several diamonds of clarity 7,
Diamonds without playing
When buying a diamond, you need to take into account a lot of nuances, study dozens of offers and, with a limited financial budget, decide for yourself the question:
What do you have to sacrifice for the weight of the stone? Color or purity?
Clarity is a kind of test of a diamond, one of its main parameters.
When it comes to diamonds with a clarity of 10, 11, 12, it is better not to sacrifice anything, especially your money.
These are diamonds without “play” or sparkle.
They have numerous graphite and other inclusions, as well as cracks along the entire diameter of the stone.
Defects are noticeable even to the naked eye and negatively affect the refractive and reflective properties of the diamond.
Luxurious radiance and mesmerizing play of colors? Not with these diamonds. Another minus is numerous cracks.
If a diamond suddenly falls out of a ring, it is quite possible that it will break. There can be only one recommendation here - give in to the mass of the stone,
give up the color of diamonds, but take a clarity of at least 8.
Industrial diamonds
Industrial or industrial diamonds are much more common than jewelry diamonds, and their cost is much lower than jewelry diamonds. Industrial diamonds are mined in more than thirty countries. These are stones with numerous defects that there is no point in cutting. However, even low-quality industrial diamonds still have the highest hardness in the world, and therefore are widely used for industrial purposes. They are used mainly as an abrasive substance. Industrial diamonds can be found in diamond drill bits, dies, cutters, electronic devices, etc.Millions of representatives of the fair half of humanity dream of having a decoration with a stone, which became iconic thanks to the brilliant Marilyn. Stone evaluation systems help you choose the best option, in which, along with weight and cut, the color and clarity of the diamond are analyzed. It is the last two characteristics that make a diamond aesthetically attractive and affect the final price of the stone.
Diamond grading systems
A unified classification of the main parameters of a diamond was not in demand until the 1950s. The stone remained the privilege of a few; a simple taxonomy of Old Term color was sufficient; the question of the purity of the crystal did not arise.
However, after the film “Gentlemen Prefer Blondes” (1953) with Marilyn Monroe, where she sang a song about “a girl’s best friend,” diamonds became not just popular, but cult attributes.
Considering this circumstance, experts took up the problem closely. Ten years later, employees of the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) presented 4C. The system covers all the nuances that determine the value of a crystal: color, clarity, weight, cut.
Today, the GIA classification is the basis for determining the value of diamonds.
GIA Classification of Diamonds and Diamonds Diamonds are assessed by national specialized institutions or certified specialists.
In Russia, all manipulations with cut diamonds are regulated by TU 117-4.2099-2002 “Diamonds. Technical requirements. Classification". The quality of the stone is assessed by several organizations, in particular, the Gemological Center of Moscow State University. The main characteristic of the Russian system is taking into account the weight and cut of the diamond.
Diamond clarity rating
Unlike synthetics, natural stones are imperfect. They always have flaws such as cracks or inclusions.
What is meant by the term “purity”
Purity is a quality that shows how many and what kind of inclusions are present in the stone (or records their absence). Such defects can be internal (impregnations) or superficial (spots). There are coal or snow inclusions. Most often these are dark particles of magnetite or ilmenite, less often reddish garnet, brownish spinel or greenish malacolite. The degree of purity of the stone depends on their number, location and dimensions.
The final weight and level of cut of the diamonds are determined by the master, but he cannot always change the clarity. This refers to factors that spoil the appearance of a diamond, but cannot be eliminated without noticeable loss of weight or size.
The class of this characteristic shows how deeply the light will penetrate the pebble. The higher the level of purity, the more it “forces” the light to refract, reflecting on the edges and creating signature shimmers.
Diamond clarity (sometimes the term "clarity" is used) is determined using a 10x loupe - this is a worldwide practice.
There are no flaw-free diamonds. Transparent stones, devoid of internal inclusions, are considered ideal: the external ones are removed by polishing or ideally cut. However, if there are “strangers”, then the crystal was created by nature.
Russian scale
According to the Russian method, the diamond clarity scale has a different basis - during distribution, the mass of crystals is measured and the number of faces is taken into account:
- small stones with 17 facets - six categories of purity;
- with 57 facets, not heavier than 0.299 carats – 9 categories;
- with 57 facets, from 0.300 carats – 12.
Diamond clarity rating The higher the category number, the worse the quality of the mineral. The best degree of purity is found in stones of the first category in all classifications. These are minerals without fracturing, foreign fragments or other flaws. They are counted in units and cost exorbitantly.
GIA Score
The system distributes stones into 11 classes. Importance is given to the dimensions, quantity and degree of distinguishability of internal and external inclusions. The carat and cut of the stone are not taken into account:
| Designation | Class | Characteristic | |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Flawless | F | Ideal |
| 2 | Internally Flawless | IF | Almost ideal |
| 3 | Very Very Small Inclusions | VVS 1, VVS | Very, very small inclusions (one or two - indicated by the number) |
| 4 | Very Small Inclusions | VS 1, VS 2 | Very small inclusions (one or two - indicated by the number) |
| 5 | Small Inclusions | SI 1, SI | Small inclusions |
| 6 | Imperfect | I 1, I 2, I | Far from perfect example |
Correlation of purity scale indicators
Product tags indicate data on different scales. The following table will help you avoid confusion and correctly determine cleanliness:
| GIA | Russian system (cut, carat) | Description (valid options) | ||
| Up to 0.299 | From 0.300 | |||
| Kr - 17 | Kr - 57 | Kr - 17 | ||
| F | 1 | 1 | 1 | No defects found. |
| IF | 2 | 2 | 2 | One or two light dots in the center or on the periphery or a stripe (acceptable). |
| VVS 1, VVS 2 | - | 3 | 3 | A maximum of three light dots or one or two barely visible dots or lines of dark shades. |
| - | - | - | 4 | Dark dots - one or two, almost unnoticeable, concentrated in depth, or light dots - small, up to four, any segment of the stone, a small surface crack is acceptable. |
| VS 1 | 3 | 4 | 5 | A small crack or light haze in depth, up to six light dotted or striped fragments or up to three dark dotted inclusions. |
| VS 2 | - | 5 | 6 | No more than one graphite inclusion, up to eight bubbles, stripes, light-colored dots, cracks; up to five dark dot fragments. |
| SI 1, SI 2 | - | - | 7, 7a | Graphite haze, no more than two single inclusions of graphite, up to eight small flaws in total. |
| SI 3 | 4 | 6 | 8 | Many minor defects, some of which are barely visible under a magnifying glass. |
| I 1 | - | - | 9 | Cracks are sometimes accompanied by inclusions or are visible to the naked eye. |
| I 2 | - | 7 | 10 | Multiple defects, transparency minimum 60%. |
| I 3 | 5 | 8 | 11 | Numerous flaws, transparency 30-60%. |
| - | 6 | 9 | 12 | Numerous flaws, transparency up to 30%. |
The visibility of flaws with the naked eye (without a magnifying glass) depends on the size of the stone: on minerals up to 0.299 they are visible starting from purity level 6, on specimens heavier than 0.300 - from 7. These data should be taken into account when purchasing stones.
Diamond color
The principles of color evaluation of diamonds in the Russian Federation and the world are not the same. Colorless or colored (fancy) stones are also distributed differently.
Russian scale
According to Russian standards, the color of a diamond is determined on three scales. It takes into account how many faces the stone has and what its carat weight is.
Stones with 17 facets are divided into four groups according to color:
- white with a subtle bluish tint;
- yellowishness is insignificant;
- white with a visible color tint or yellow;
- brown.
For 57-sided stones not heavier than 0.299 carats, seven groups are distinguished:
For stones with 57 facets from 0.300 carats - 9 groups:
Stones are not compared to a standard (as in GIA). When characterizing appearance, verbal descriptions are used. It is difficult for an ignorant person to understand, since even the official document operates with vague concepts: “barely noticeable”, “with a barely noticeable tint” and the like.
A classification has been developed for yellow and brown colors that is not provided by the GIA.
GIA Score
A special feature of the color evaluation system according to the international method is the use of two scales: for colorless and fancy specimens. There is no gradation based on weight or number of edges.
The shade is determined by comparing the sample with a diamond standard. For white crystals, the indicator depends on the letter: the gradation goes from D to Z.
D is a completely colorless pebble, yellowness begins at level K, which reaches noticeable at step Z. Specimens of category Z are conditionally yellow stones.
Colored (not white) diamonds are classified into special color groups. Their common name is “Fancy”, that is, “fantasy”. The scale is radically different from the “white” one: the darker the mineral, the more expensive it is.
Correlation of color scale indicators
White (colorless) diamonds are graded:
| GIA | Russia | |
| up to 0.299 carats | from 0.300 carats | |
| D | 1 | 1 |
| E | 1 | 2 |
| F | 2 | 3 |
| G | 3 | 4 |
| H | 3 | 5 |
| I | 4 | 6 |
| J | 4 | 7 |
| K-Z | 5 | 8 (1-5) |
| 6 | 6 (1), |
|
| 7 | ||
Color or clarity: which to choose?
This dilemma often arises when purchasing a diamond. Both factors are important; the choice is made based on specific circumstances.
- Color comes first if the jewelry is intended for a specific setting. For a white frame, a colorless diamond with visible tints is undesirable: the yellowishness will only intensify.
- Clarity is more important than color when the setting is yellow gold: it will absorb the yellowish tones of the stone. The gem will visually “whiten” and if it is of poor quality, the contamination will become obvious. The diamond should look clean.
Clarity and color are the most important characteristics of a diamond. On the tag they are indicated side by side in the form of numbers: the first is a score for color, the second is for purity. For example, 3/3 is an almost transparent mineral with a maximum of two minor defects.
What to consider when buying diamonds
If funds allow, it is better to choose a specimen without visually visible defects.
For models with 57 facets, the third category is considered good clarity for a diamond; for 17-facets, the second or third category is suitable. According to GIA this means F, G and H.
The best-selling stones are those whose color and clarity correspond to levels 3/3, 4/4, 6/6. Round specimens larger than a carat with a purity of 3 - 6 are considered investment grade. They never become cheaper and their resale value decreases little.
Silver ring with diamond The location of the defect is important. If it is on the “platform”, the shine and play of light are minimal. Small cracks or similar flaws at the edge are not important: they will be hidden by the frame of the product.
A precious gem of purity level 4 does not have the conflict of basic parameters inherent in pure stones.
If you need a decent-looking diamond, but have limited funds, it is better to purchase a large 6/6 stone. In terms of quality, it belongs to the average group, but successfully imitates a higher level. The differences are only noticeable under a 10x magnifying glass.
This is the most sought after jewelry insert in Europe.
Conclusion
For many, buying a diamond or a product with it is a single event in life for which they prepare. If it is not possible to take a knowledgeable person with you, the attached tag will help you evaluate the quality of the stone.
You need to pay attention to what scale the assessment is on, look at the numbers and letters.
Jewelers work with stones that have no defects or are barely noticeable. Microscopic cracks, inclusions or darkening should not be repulsive: they confirm the natural origin of the diamond.
As diamond color designations became ingrained in international trade, interest arose in another characteristic that determines a diamond's value: clarity. In the 1960s, diamond clarity designations were used not only in America, but also in Europe.
Diamond Clarity is a collective concept that defines the transparency, absence or degree of manifestation of internal or external defects of a diamond. The clarity of a diamond shows how easily light can penetrate inside the diamond, reflect off its facets, and scatter into multi-colored rays. The purity of a diamond determines its rarity, attractiveness and durability, and therefore its value.
The formation of inclusions and defects in a diamond that affect the clarity of the diamond.
Diamond was formed in the depths of the Earth gradually over several time phases. Moreover, the conditions - temperature, pressure, environment - were not always the same. This gives rise to natural features often referred to as internal diamond defects.
The division into internal and external defects is conditional, since, for example, an internal crack can be formed as a result of diamond processing, and an external defect in the form of a left natural edge is of natural origin.
Photos of diamonds of different clarity
Diamonds and diamonds have the property of sticking to fat. When worn, a layer of dust and grease particles inevitably forms on the surface of a diamond, hiding the diamond’s defects. We specially cleaned diamonds of different clarity groups so that in macro photos it was possible to see diamond defects.
The photo shows an 8th clarity diamond - dark inclusions can be seen without magnification.
Each diamond is unique and inimitable, so diamonds of the same clarity grade differ in size, color and location of defects.
The photo shows an 8th clarity diamond - the light defect in the form of a crack is difficult to see without magnification.
The Diamond Expert company uses diamonds with a clarity of 3 to 7a to create jewelry, inclusions and defects of which are not visible to the naked eye when viewing a diamond set in a frame.
Diamond clarity group 7a. With a magnifying glass you can easily see a light defect, but without magnification it will be invisible.
In the catalog of certified diamonds, you can select diamonds weighing from 0.25 to 0.29 carats with clarity characteristics from 3 to 5 and diamonds weighing from 0.30 to 1.06 carats with clarity characteristics from 3 to 7a.
Diamond clarity group 7a. Dark inclusions can be easily seen with a magnifying glass, but without magnification they will not be visible.
The most advantageous purity groups are 7 and 7a. At 10x magnification, you can see diamond defects, but they will not be noticeable to the naked eye.
Diamond clarity group 7. The dark inclusion in the center can be seen with a loupe, but it is impossible to see without magnification.
If you can see inclusions in diamonds with a clarity of 6 or 7 using a 10x magnification loupe, then you have excellent eyesight and attention.
Diamond clarity group 6. The dark inclusion on the edge of the diamond and its reflection can be seen with a loupe, but it is impossible to see without magnification.
In diamonds with clarity group 5 and better, without preparing and training the eye, it is impossible to see anything even with a magnifying glass with tenfold magnification, but such diamonds are much more expensive.
Diamond clarity group 5. The light inclusion is difficult to see even with a magnifying glass.
Diamonds with a clarity of 3 or better are rarely used for jewelry purposes due to their high cost. In addition, their defects are not visible even with magnification when viewing the diamond from the platform. Imagine a microscopic bright inclusion in the form of a dot similar to the clarity 5 diamond in the photo above, only this inclusion will be located closer to the edge of the diamond under the edges of its facets. Even a professional gemologist will need a lot of time to find and identify such an inclusion.
Diamond clarity rating
On diamond appraisal influenced by all its internal and external flaws and shortcomings, their color and size, location in the diamond, degree of manifestation and visibility. The international standard for identifying defects in a diamond is 10x magnification.
Since a diamond is a creation not only of nature, but also of man, it may have external defects that appear or form during the diamond manufacturing process.
The degree of manifestation and visibility of internal and external defects of an unmounted diamond in a free and perfectly clean state is described in the following terms:
Degree of defect manifestation |
Description |
| Defects that are difficult to see | It is very difficult to detect by looking long and hard at an unmounted diamond from all angles at 10x magnification. |
| Hardly visible defects | Difficult to detect when looking long and hard at an unmounted diamond from all angles at 10x magnification |
| Visible defects | Can be detected by closely viewing an unmounted diamond from all angles at 10x magnification |
| Easily visible defects | Easily detectable by carefully viewing a diamond from all angles at 10x magnification, but they are barely visible to the naked eye |
| Clearly visible defects | Can be detected at 10x magnification and can also be seen with the naked eye |
| Very visible defects | Very easy to detect at 10x magnification, including easy to spot with the naked eye |
The following terms are used to describe the size of internal and external defects:
Defect size |
Description |
| The smallest defects | They do not have a discernible volume, have the appearance of dots or stripes, and according to the degree of manifestation - defects that are visible with great difficulty |
| Minor defects | Do not have a discernible volume or have a very difficult to discern volume, according to the degree of manifestation - hardly visible defects |
| Minor defects | They have a volume that is difficult to discern, and according to the degree of manifestation - visible defects |
| Minor defects | They have a discernible volume and, according to the degree of manifestation, easily visible defects |
| Large defects | They have the appearance of three-dimensional objects; according to the degree of manifestation, they are clearly visible defects |
| Very large defects | They have the appearance of three-dimensional objects; in terms of the degree of manifestation, they are very clearly visible defects |
The following terms are used to refer to some internal and external defects:
Table for determining the purity of a loose diamond by characteristics according to the classification of diamonds GOST R 52913-2008 *
Characteristics of diamond clarity groups | Diamond Clarity Group |
|||
Central zone of the diamond | Middle zone of the diamond | Peripheral zone of the diamond | ||
Weight up to 0.299 carats | Weight from 0.30 carats |
|||
| Free from internal and external defects | 1 | 1 | ||
| One tiny defect in the form of a bright point, visible only when viewing the diamond from the pavilion side | - | - | 2 | 2 |
| - | No more than two tiny defects in the form of light dots | 2 | 2 | |
| - | One tiny defect in the form of a strip | 2 | 2 | |
| No more than three small defects in the form of light inclusions | - | - | 3 | 3 |
| - | 3 | 3 | ||
| - | No more than two small defects in the form of a stripe | 3 | 3 | |
| No more than two small defects in the form of dark inclusions | - | - | 3 | 4 |
| No more than four minor defects in the form of light inclusions | 3 | 4 | ||
| No more than two minor streak defects | 3 | 4 | ||
| No more than one minor streak defect and three minor light inclusion defects | 3 | 4 | ||
| - | - | 3 | 4 | |
| One minor defect in the form of a light cloud | - | - | 4 | 5 |
| One minor defect in the form of a crack | - | - | 4 | 5 |
| No more than three minor defects in the form of dark inclusions | - | - | 4 | 5 |
| No more than six minor defects in the form of light inclusions and stripes | 4 | 5 | ||
| - | No more than three minor defects in the form of cracks | 4 | 5 | |
| No more than eight small scattered defects in the form of light inclusions, stripes, cracks, transparent volumetric inclusions | 5 | 6 | ||
| Up to five minor defects in the form of dark inclusions | 5 | 6 | ||
| One minor defect in the form of a voluminous dark inclusion | 5 | 6 | ||
| No more than eight small scattered defects in the form of light and dark inclusions, stripes, cracks, clouds, transparent volumetric inclusions | 5 | 7 | ||
| One small defect in the form of a dark inclusion | 5 | 7 | ||
| No more than two small defects in the form of dark inclusions | 5 | 7a | ||
| No more than two small defects in the form of cracks | 5 | 7a | ||
| No more than one small cloud-like defect combined with a small dark inclusion | 5 | 7a | ||
| Several small defects in the form of cracks combined with a small dark inclusion | 5 | 7a | ||
IN Diamond Expert catalog of certified diamonds you can choose large diamonds with clarity characteristics from 1 to 7a and small diamonds with clarity characteristics from 1 to 5. From the crown side, which is how the diamond is seen when mounted, inclusions and defects are not visible to the naked eye. |
||||
| Numerous small defects in the form of various inclusions and cracks | 6 | 8 | ||
| One big crack | 6 | 8 | ||
| Numerous large defects in the form of various inclusions, cracks | 6 | 9 | ||
| Numerous large defects in the form of various inclusions in combination with cracks | 6 | 9 | ||
| Numerous very large defects of various types and at least 60% of the diamond pavilion facets are transparent for viewing | 7 | 10 | ||
| Numerous very large defects of various types and transparent to view from 60% to 30% of the diamond pavilion facets | 8 | 11 | ||
| Numerous very large defects of various types and less than 30% of the diamond pavilion facets are transparent for viewing | 9 | 12 | ||
