Well, please tell me, what woman doesn’t like jewelry? Brooches, hairpins, beads... You can buy all this, or you can make it yourself.
Today I want to introduce you to amazing knitted jewelry craftsmen from Ukraine Evgeniya. Her crocheted flowers bring only positive emotions. As Evgenia herself says, she knits bright emotions. And it is true.
It’s hard to believe that Evgeniya became interested in crocheting quite recently.
Evgeniya learned to knit such wonderful flowers using MK
. Evgeniya admits that she knitted her first poppy according to KSENIYANIK’s sketches.
But as a true Master, she did not copy Ksenia’s work. The poppy, which has 6 petals, was Eugenia’s own idea.
In my opinion, the centers of Eugenia’s flowers are unusual. Like, for example, this chamomile or poppy.
For the stamens, Evgenia used the finest golden wire. The stamens are hand-twisted from wire, and at the end of each stamen there is an olive-colored mother-of-pearl bead. Jewelry work!
In the details of their brooches related crochet Evgeniya knits a wire frame, which is invisible to the eye, and which allows you to give the flower the desired shape, and also protects the brooch from deformation.
When knitting your crochet brooch Evgeniya uses yarn of two colors.
Evgeniya knits her brooches using the technique " " .
Eugenia's brooches are ideal for dresses and jackets. And if you wish, they can also be used as decoration for a bag or coat.
You can buy such amazing jewelry in Evgenia’s store - livemaster.ru/evgenia041059
If you recommend my site to your friends and click on the social networking buttons, I will be very grateful to you.
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A brooch is a wonderful accessory that will help diversify any look. This thing is very relevant at the present time, because with its help you can decorate absolutely any item of clothing. Crocheted brooches look very interesting, but finding a really worthwhile item in a store is not at all easy, but don’t despair, because you can do everything yourself: you can get a stylish little thing and spend a useful evening. After reading our article, you will easily cope with this task, because we will tell you in detail how to crochet a brooch with diagrams and descriptions.
Unusual option
Perhaps the most unusual looking brooches are those tied with a pin. You can make absolutely any figurine in this style, but, to be honest, you won’t surprise anyone with flowers and butterflies. We bring to your attention a master class on creating a brooch in the shape of a bird.
You will need:
- Yarn;
- A large enough pin for the base;
- The legs are from toy birds, but you can do without them, or you can make them from thread;
- A beak for a bird, which can also be made from thread, or bought at a craft store;
- Wool thread to fill the figurine;
- Two eyes, you can embroider them or buy them ready-made at a craft store;
- Threads to match;
- Needle;
- Hook No. 2.
First you need to cast on the loops on the pin; to do this, tie it with half single crochet stitches. Next, work according to the scheme presented below.
Brooch-flower
We invite you to create a very delicate and feminine brooch using the free-form technique. This accessory will be a great addition to any romantic look. In addition, this brooch will be in the shape of a flower, and what woman doesn’t love flowers, because this is an imperishable classic that will perfectly emphasize your femininity.
You will need:
- Yarn;
- A bead or a beautiful button for the core;
- A base for a brooch, preferably round;
- Glue.
First you need to make a chain of six air loops and close them into a ring with a connecting post.
We knit the next row in the same way: two chain stitches and fourteen half-columns. Thus, our walls begin to rise, if this is the case, then you are doing everything right.
In this “plate” you need to place the button or bead you have chosen, make sure that the middle is the right size.
Now we need to strengthen our middle, for this we knit another row in the same way as we did before (two chain loops, fourteen half-columns).
We break the thread and fasten it.
Now crochet the thread to the wrong side.
We knit the thread below one or two rows.
Now you need to knit two chain loops and twenty-nine half-columns; we do this by knitting two half-columns in each loop.
Now you need to make three chain loops to lift to the next row, and then three double crochets in each loop. We repeat this action ten times.
Then you need to make three chain loops and attach them to the base of the single crochet column.
Working according to this principle, we go down to the previous row and continue to work in this way: one half-column, another half-column, two half-columns. We work like this until the ruffle begins.
Now we knit seven connecting stitches under the ruffle and make three air loops for lifting. We knit the second ruffle using the same principle (three double crochets in each stitch, repeating this ten times, then we make three chain loops and go down to the previous row).
Then we knit three columns without a crochet.
Now we make two air lifting loops and begin work on the third ruffle. We knit it like this: three double crochets in each stitch and repeat this fifteen times.
Now you need to bring the working thread to the front side, we knit a small ruffle near the middle, thus: two air lifting loops, and then three half-columns in each loop. We repeat this twelve times.
Now we break the thread and fasten the loop.
I tried microbeads as pollen. Liked. It does not weigh down the stamens at all and is reasonably priced. The sectional green cotton was almost gone, so I had to make the leaves a solid color. And the leaves themselves were replaced with less dissected ones.
Flower brooches
Knitted a yellow daffodil. I must say that white looks better. The stamens turned out surprisingly neat. 
I also knitted another unknown bright red flower with a dark gray beaded center. Three tiers. The petals are knitted using the Tunisian technique in transverse rows. 
Floral brooch made of denim threads
Floral brooch made of denim threads
Knitted from thin threads for sewing and finishing denim fabrics (polyester, 20/s) with a 0.5 crochet hook. The center is made of Japanese beads. There is a wire frame around the perimeter. Tunisian knitting. The composition of the threads is a little sad. I would like silk of the same thickness or at least viscose. In addition, polyester is a little fluffy. I don’t know how long the brooch will retain its original neat appearance. I would also like to draw a diagram for the leaves. They are made mainly in the Tunisian technique with shortened rows, increases/decreases; are obtained round, with rows radiating radially from the central vein. While I was knitting, I kept getting lost in counting the stitches. A diagram in front of your eyes would be very helpful. There are not a lot of programs for drawing up diagrams on the Internet. I'm trying to draw in MyCrochete. It turns out, frankly, not very good. Plus, you have to twist your head to distinguish between regular and Tunisian bars on the diagram. However, this is exactly the case when hunting is worse than captivity. So I'll draw.
Flower brooch: sectional and tiers again
Flower brooch: sectional and tiers again
The brooch consists of two identical petal tiers. The middle-base of the tier is knitted in a spiral using single crochets: 6-12-18-24-30-36-42. Each of the seven petals occupies 5 warp loops; There is a gap of one loop between the petals. The petals are made using Tunisian technique:
Cast on 10 ch;
- knit a full row of 9 Tunisian stitches;
- knit a full row of 11 Tunisian stitches, increasing at the beginning of the cast-on row;
- knit a shortened row of 6 Tunisian stitches, increasing at the beginning of the cast-on row;
- knit a shortened row of 10 Tunisian stitches, increasing at the beginning of the cast-on row;
- knit a full row of 14 Tunisian stitches, increasing at the beginning of the cast-on row;
- knit a shortened row of 10 Tunisian stitches, decreasing at the beginning of the cast-on row;
- knit a full row of 11 Tunisian stitches, decreasing at the beginning of the cast-on row;
- knit a shortened row of 6 Tunisian stitches, decreasing at the beginning of the cast-on row;
- knit a full row of 9 Tunisian stitches, decreasing at the beginning of the cast-on row;
- knit 10 connecting loops, closing the edge of the petal.
To increase, pull an additional loop from the horizontal jumper between the first two posts. To decrease, pull out the loop by inserting the hook simultaneously under the front walls of the first two stitches.
The petal tiers are tied with wire in single crochets. The middle is knitted in a spiral with beads pre-strung on a thread and stuffed with filler. 
Knitted flowers: Narcissus
I saw the incarnation of Ekaterina Vishnevskaya ( http://vk.com/feed?section=comments&z=photo314...0833%2Falbum31462333_155859564). And I liked it so much that I decided to knit. I don’t like diagrams - that’s it. I love Tunisian technology - that's two. Naturally, a similar daffodil came out, but in my favorite Tunisian technique. Cotton sectioned foliage, microfiber petals, sectioned cotton embroidery floss crown. 
Daffodil assembly
I made another daffodil. They fit very nicely; literally, in one breath. I don’t show how to knit individual parts: this is all clear. Showing the installation. 
For the petals you need to knit a circle in a spiral using single crochets: 6-12-18-24. On this circle, petals are made using the Tunisian technique: without knitting, pull 7 loops from the columns of the base circle; then knit the first one single, the rest two each. The first row of the petal is ready. In the second, third and fourth rows, add one loop each on the left and right (there will first be 9 loops on the hook, then 11 and then 13). Knit the 5th, 6th and 7th row without increasing. Then, in each subsequent row, decrease one loop on both sides until one loop remains on the hook. The petal is ready. And the vein is knitted with connecting loops over Tunisian posts. Cut the thread and bring it inside out. On one circle, 3 petals are knitted with a gap of one column. The finished piece needs to be tied with single crochets, knitting a wire frame.
"Fly, fly, petal..."
The "rainbow" theme is quite widespread in handmade. I was looking through my supplies of thread and discovered that I could afford it too. Orange, however, is not as intense as we would like. Purple is good in life, but again it didn’t work out in the photo. At first I planned to have a golden one, I assembled it, looked at it - I didn’t like it, so I remade it. I can't say that I'm completely satisfied. Too much glitter. Probably the stem and leaves should have been made matte. Or do without them altogether. 
The petals are exactly like those of a daffodil. Only they are knitted not three on a circle, but each separately. Here is a link to my comment to the post about assembling the daffodil: http://kseniyanik.livejournal.com/41097.html?thread=94345#t94345
Do you knit a little using the Tunisian technique? The petal begins with three loops, then in each row on the right and left one column is added to the desired width; Knit several rows without increases, then in each row (again, both on the right and on the left) - decreases until one loop remains on the hook. Using connecting loops, go down from the top of the petal to its base (you will get a central pigtail-vein). Having attached the wire, tie the petal around the perimeter with single crochets.
Here - http://kseniyanik.livejournal.com/48850.html - more details about decreases and increases.
There is a pin attached to the stem. Can be pinned to clothes. Or on a bag. 
Completed "looses"
Sometimes it happens that a flower is knitted in one go in a few hours. But it happens that “it doesn’t work.” It seems like everything is already ready, all that’s left to do is assemble it, but I don’t feel like it. Or some element is not satisfactory. You redo it, bandage it several times, but it still remains stubborn. And since I want to get a thrill from knitting, and not from struggling with it, these little flower things go into the box to rest without much thought. Sometimes I finish them. 
This brooch has two failures at once: yarn with lurex and ruffles. I will never imitate lush petals again. 
But I like this thing. She lay in the “loose” position for several weeks because of the middle. I wanted to knit a gerbera. I tried different threads, different knitting methods, I even thought about felting the central part, but then I gave up. I decided that the gerbera would wait and made the center from a wonderful bronze-mercury mixture of Czech beads. 
This flower also did not have a middle for a long time. And the point is not in the agony of choice, but in the fact that when the workpiece with the petals was knitted, while photographing another finished work from these threads, I discovered that the color was “not caught.” But it’s a shame: to knit a beautiful thing and not be able to show it. I delayed it for a couple of months, then finished it. It was not possible to really take a photo. Lightened it up a little, increased the color saturation a little; the result became brighter, but not real. 
Linen earrings with wooden beads
Linen earrings with wooden beads
On the last day of spring. I photographed the assembly process. If I'm not too lazy, I'll post it.
Linen earrings with wooden beads. Assembly
Linen, hook 0.5, wooden beads, wire 0.3, ear wires, clamping beads, jewelry cable, pliers, side cutters. I don’t write much about knitting elements. I'll try to show the assembly. Let me make a reservation: I am by no means an expert in assembling jewelry. Perhaps there is a simpler, more reliable, more elegant solution. 
Petals: circle in a spiral with single crochets 6-12-18-24. Each of the 8 petals is knitted on three warp loops using the Tunisian technique. From the first loop, cast on 10 ch, knit a row of 10 Tunisian stitches. From the second warp loop, knit two Tunisian rows of 11 stitches (increase on the right). From the third loop, knit one Tunisian row of 10 stitches (decrease on the right), close the row with connecting loops. Knit the remaining petals in the same way. Tie the finished part (photo 1) with single crochets, tying a wire frame around the perimeter.
The middles (photo 3) are knitted in single crochets in a spiral with pre-strung beads: 6-12. Knit the third row (18 loops) without beads. “Fringe” with single beads can be knitted in different ways: tie a round center picot, knitting a loop with a bead in the middle of the chain, or knit a flat cord. The sepals (photo 4) are knitted in a spiral using single crochets: 6-12-18-24. Tie the last row with picot.
Twist the wires tightly, roll them into a ring, sew the ring to the petal circle, seal the ends of the threads (photo 2, detail on the right). 
Sew the center to the petal circle (photo 5). For assembly you will need earrings, jewelry cable, clamping beads (crimps), pliers, and side cutters. 
Insert a piece of jewelry cable about 5-6 cm long into the eye of the earrings, put a clamping bead on both ends (photo 7), flatten it with pliers almost to the end (photos 8 and 9), put a needle on top and flatten it even more (photo 10). A depression will form on the flattened bead (photo 11), thanks to which it can be carefully bent in half using pliers so that it actually has the shape of a bead and not a rectangle. Also fasten the second bead at a distance of 5 mm from the first (photo 12). By the way, here is a link to Tatyana Zakharchenko’s article on methods of attaching crimps. In the same article there is a link to Galina Grebennikova’s tutorial on installing crimps without special tools. 
Sew the fastener to the petal circle by the jumper between the two beads (photo 13). Sew on the sepals (photo 14). Place a clamping bead on both ends of the cable, move it as close to the part as possible and clamp it (in photo 15 it is only flattened; you still need to fold it in half). Cut off the ends of the cable. One earring is ready (photo 16). 
Linen earrings with wooden beads: version No. 3
Slightly smaller than the previous ones: 4 cm in diameter. The base of the petal circle is knitted in a spiral using single crochets: 6-12-18-24. Each of the 6 petals is knitted on three warp loops. There is a gap of one loop between the petals. For the petal, cast on 8 ch; knit a row of 8 Tunisian stitches (pull the edge stitch out of the first warp loop); shortened row of 4 Tunisian stitches; knit two rows of 8 Tunisian stitches (pull the edge stitches from the second warp loop); shortened row of 4 Tunisian stitches; a row of 8 Tunisian stitches (pull the edge stitch from the third warp loop); close the row with connecting posts.
Yellow poppy
I cut out a strip of cardboard about 1.5 cm wide and crocheted about 80 elongated loops on it (there are a lot of illustrated descriptions on Google for “crocheting on a line”), turned the knitting and knitted the second row tightly with single crochets. I diluted PVA with water 1 to 1 and soaked the elongated loops. I didn’t wait for it to dry completely, fearing that future stamens would stick to the cardboard. I took out the template and cut the loops. The result was a braid with thread fringe. I rolled the ribbon into a ring (it turned out to be 3 turns), secured it in several places, and shortened the threads to the desired length. Once again I soaked it in PVA, dried it, and dipped the ends of the threads first in PVA, then in semolina. I shook off the excess and dried it; repeated. This is less labor-intensive than twisting each stamen with wire fingers. And the result looks more natural. But also messier. Threads soaked in glue tend to stick together; On some threads there is too much semolina, while on others there are almost no grains left. Of course, you can make each pair of stamens separately and then weave them into the braid. But when I imagine: dipping each of the one and a half hundred stamens into glue, dipping in semolina and drying, I’m taken aback.
The diameter of the flower is about 7 cm. The dimensions of the entire composition are approximately 10 by 12 cm.
Crochet motif
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Blue poppy
Blue poppy
I started looking at photos of blue poppies on the Internet only when almost all the details were already connected, except for the stamens. I found out that blue poppies are not exactly poppies, but their relatives, meconopsis. I hit the color scheme pretty accurately, but with the leaves I was very wrong. They shouldn't be so cut up. I didn't bandage it. For the stamens, this time instead of semolina I used glitter powder purchased at a nail design store. It turned out well, but according to the idea, the stamen filaments should have been lighter than the pollen. However, impregnation of the thread with PVA changed its color exactly to the shade that the powder has. This is another confirmation of the law of meanness) 
Two identical parts for the petals. The round center is knitted in a spiral using single crochets: 6-12-18-24-30-36. The Tunisian technique is used for the petals. Without lifting the thread from the warp, cast on a chain of 12 ch, knit a Tunisian row, pulling the left edge out of the loop of the round warp. Next, knit according to the pattern in the next photo. To increase, pull the loop out of the horizontal jumper after the first stitch. To decrease, knit the first two stitches together. 
Conventional knitting pattern for details with petals. I will duplicate the numbers of columns in the rows: 12-6__12-13-6__13-14-7__14-15-7__15-16-8__16-16-8__16-16-8__16-15-7__15-14-7__14-13-6__13-12-6__12. Having finished knitting one petal, use connecting loops to go down to its base, knit 7 single crochets and cast on a chain of 12 ch for the second petal. Tie the finished part around the perimeter with single crochets, tying in a wire of a matching color. 
Sew both parts. 
Bring the wire ends inside out, twist them together, lay them in a ring and secure them. 
A pestle is a single crochet ball, stuffed with filling and embroidered. In this case, a rococo stitch was used, although it is possible to use a chain stitch to indicate a pattern characteristic of a poppy, or a regular “forward needle” stitch with several threads. 
For the stamens, crochet a strip of cardboard about 1.5 cm wide. There are about 50 turns. Unfold the knitting and secure the turns with a row of single crochets. Soak the coils with PVA glue. Let it dry a little, cut and remove the piece from the cardboard. You will get a braid with fringe. 
Place the braid with fringe in a ring and secure it. This flower turned out to have two turns, maybe more if the stamens are denser. Dip the tips of the stamens in PVA, and then in semolina/microbials/ground coffee or whatever else is at hand. Here we use powder with glitter for nail design. 
Use a few stitches to attach the stamens to the flower. 
Attach the pestle. 
This is what the inside looks like. Fasten the ends of the threads and trim them. 
Blanks for a bud. The petals are connected according to the same principle as in the red poppy: http://kseniyanik.livejournal.com/29603.html
The green part of the bud consists of two oval parts. Each oval is knitted in a spiral using single crochets. The last 2-3 rows from one edge are knitted with half double crochets and without increases. 
Roll the petal part of the bud into a tube and secure it. 
Connect the two green halves and fill one third with filler. Attach a wire to the petal part and insert it into the green part. Use a few stitches to fasten the petals and the green cup together. 
Attach a green thread to the base of the bud and tie the stem with single crochets. 
Leaves. Frankly speaking, the leaves are not entirely plausible for a poppy. Someday, I will knit better, but for now you can read about the principle of their manufacture in the same post about the red poppy: http://kseniyanik.livejournal.com/29603.html 
Continuing to tie the stem, attach a small leaf to it. 
The base-backdrop, to which a pin is sewn and a bud with a leaf is attached, is knitted in a spiral with single crochets. In the photo there are 6-12-18-24-30-36-42-48, but the number of rows may vary depending on the thickness of the thread. 
When knitting the last row, attach a sheet... 
... and a bud. 
This is how unpresentable the inside looks so far. 
Carefully trim the protruding ends of the wire and threads. 
When sewing a pin, it is better to place it slightly above the center. This way the brooch will wobble less on the fabric. 
Sew the backdrop to the flower. 
All that remains is to corrugate the petals as desired.
Evolution of the sunflower
The evolution of the sunflower from Ksenia Nikolaeva
Sunflower
Threads are cotton. The middle of the flower is cotton with lurex. Hook 1.3. Became a brooch. I don’t wear brooches myself; I will give it away. I’ll make myself a bracelet with a sunflower. 
When knitting flowers, I am moving further and further from nature) There are no more poppies and daisies, instead there are fantasy flowers with terry beaded centers. These centers are surprisingly pleasant to the touch; you want to touch them and touch them. I'm a kinesthetic person after all)
YarnArt Tulip yarn also turned out to be tactilely pleasant, but during knitting it causes inconvenience: it jumps off the ball in coils, gets tangled, and twists. But the result is pleasing: the knitted fabric is smooth and shiny.
As usual, I ran a wire around the perimeter of the petals. Without it, the petals curl tightly, and you don’t want to starch them.
In the white flower I tried not to sew a pin, but to tie it into the base backdrop. Looks neater. On the other hand, if a pin breaks, replacing it will be a pain. 
Poppy crochet: description
Poppy crochet: description
Materials and tools
Red yarn for the petals (in this case YarnArt Tulip, 100% microfiber, 250 m by 50 g) and green yarn for the leaves (YarnArt Violet section dyed, 100% cotton, 282 m by 50 g). Hooks of the appropriate size: in this case 0.9 for petals and 0.7 for leaves. The wire is red, green and black; black beads, scissors, wide eye needle (tapestry); a little filler for stuffing the box and bud (in this case, toy filler was used; you can get by with padding polyester); platform brooch pin with three holes.
Flower petals
1.
A poppy flower consists of two parts: a pair of lower petals and a pair of upper ones.
For the lower petals, use single crochet stitches to work a circle 6-12-18-24-30. Knit the first row (6 loops) into a sliding loop (amigurumi loop); then knit in a spiral (without lifting loops), making 6 increments evenly in each row. For increases, knit two double stitches from one stitch. Insert the hook under both half loops. For ease of counting stitches, the beginning of the row can be marked with a marker (thread of a different color, pin). If you make increments exactly under each other, clearly defined 6 sectors will be visible on the part and it will have the shape of a regular hexagon rather than a circle. For small sizes this is not critical, but for reasons of perfectionism, you can shift the position of the increases from row to row.
The resulting round part - the base of the lower petal circle - has 30 loops around the perimeter. We will consider the current loop to be the first. On the first 12 loops, one petal is knitted using the Tunisian technique; then 3 loops are knitted in a double stitch (the space between the petals); on the next 12 loops - the second petal; last 3 loops - st b/n.
For the petal, from the first loop of the base, knit a chain of 15 air loops (photo 1). Consider the loop on the hook to be an edge loop. From the remaining loops of the chain, pull out one loop at a time, but do not knit; Pull the last loop out of the first warp loop (photo 2). There will be 16 loops on the hook: 15 + edge loops. Knit two loops on the hook (a total of 15 “knits”). The first Tunisian row is ready (photo 3).
Cast on loops for the second row (pull the last loop again from the first warp loop); knit loops on the hook two at a time. The second row is ready (photo 6). The third row will be shortened: cast on 7 loops (there will be 8 on the hook, counting the edge loop), knit one (!) loop, then knit the remaining loops two at a time (photo 8). For the fourth row, cast on the first seven loops from the third row, seven more loops from the second row and pull the last loop from the second (!) warp loop. Knit loops two at a time. Knit the fifth row in the same way, picking up the last loop from the second warp loop. The sixth row is shortened again. In the seventh and eighth rows, the last loop is cast on from the third warp loop.2.
Knitting the petal continues up to the 12th warp loop inclusive (on each warp loop there are two Tunisian rows, with one shortened one between them). Having finished the petal, close the row with connecting posts (photo 12), knitting the last one into the 12th loop of the warp. In the 13th, 14th, 15th and 16th loops of the warp, knit along a single crochet. From the 16th loop, start knitting the second petal in the same way as the first. The detail resembles a figure eight (photo 13). As a rule, the edges of the petals curl (more or less depending on the density of the knitting and the twist of the thread). To impart rigidity and ductility, the part must be tied around the perimeter with single crochets, attaching a wire to the edge (photo 14). It is advisable to choose a wire that matches the thread. However, with a sufficiently tight knitting, the wire will completely “hide” inside the last row. In the corners of the petals you should knit 3 single crochets to avoid deformation. From time to time it is useful to stretch the fabric in order to tie the maximum length of wire around the perimeter. This will give greater freedom in giving the petals a natural, dynamic shape. Having finished tying, cut the thread and twist the ends of the wire. “Hide” the ends of the threads by stitching them through the warp circle. The wire can be secured in the same way. The lower petal circle is finished.
The upper petal circle is knitted in a similar way. The base is one row less: 6-12-18-24. Each of the two petals is knitted on 10 warp loops. In the spaces between the petals there are two single crochets. For each petal, from one warp loop, knit two Tunisian rows of 15 loops (plus one edge stitch). Between twos of full rows, knit one shortened row of 7 loops (plus an edge stitch).
Tie up the ends of the threads and sew the parts together.
Capsule and stamens3.
For the box (photo 19), knit a ball using single crochets in a spiral: 6-12-18-24-24-24-24-18-12-6. Decreases/increases are performed evenly. To decrease, knit two loops at a time: insert the hook into the first loop, pull the thread, insert the hook into the second loop, pull the thread, knit three loops on the hook. Before the last row, while the size of the hole still allows, tightly fill the ball with toy filler. Then knit the last row and cut the thread, leaving enough end to attach to the core of the flower.
For the stamens, use red yarn to knit a circle according to the size of the base of the upper petal circle: 6-12-18-24. Cut the thread, leaving a long enough end so that you can then sew the part with the stamens to the petals. Cut a piece of black wire 70-80 cm long (this length is not enough for all the stamens, you will have to increase it; but longer wire is extremely inconvenient to work with). The loops of the first row must be skipped; a box will be sewn to them later. But from all the other loops the stamens will “grow”. Insert the wire into the first loop of the second row from the bottom up (from the inside to the face), leaving a short end of 7-8 cm. Attach the wire to the base with this end, wrapping it around the nearest post. Place a black bead on the working end of the wire, bring the wire through the same first loop to the wrong side, leaving on the face a loop with a bead about 1 cm high. Twist the loop to the base: you get a bead on a wire “leg” - the first stamen. Insert the wire from the wrong side onto the face into the second loop, string the bead, and through the same loop bring the wire to the wrong side, leaving a loop; twist the loop. In total there will be 12+18+24=54 stamens. The stamens of the first circle are about 1 cm high; the second circle - a couple of mm more; the third - a little more. If you want to make the stamens thicker, you can “grow” not one, but two stamens from every second or third loop. To extend the wire, just twist the ends of the “old” and “new” wire from the wrong side.
Using a thread coming from the box, sew it to the first row of the circle with stamens. Then, having pierced the box through and through, bring the thread to the top of the head and, hooking a couple of threads, again to the bottom. Pull the thread so that the box is slightly flattened and the top is concave. Make a couple more of these stitches, tightening the top and bottom. Fasten the thread and cut. Sew a circle with stamens into the center of the flower.
Leaves4.
For a large sheet, knit a chain of 29 ch. Fold a green wire about 30 cm long in half. Attach the wire to the ch braid and knit the first loop from the hook with a single crochet, inserting the hook into the wire arch (photo 29). Pull up the wire and continue tying it, inserting the hook into the next loop of the chain under the wire veins. 2-4 loop - st b/n, 5-8 loop - pst s/n, 9-20 loop, st s/n, 21-24 loop - pst s/n, 25-28 loop - st b/n. Unfold the knitting. Attach the wire coming from the spool to the “pigtail” (do not cut the wire; it will be a shame to miss the size to the smaller side). In the first three loops, knit a single crochet. Knit only 7 tbsp on the wire (the wire and the loops on it are located perpendicular to the previous row, photo 31). Bend the wire immediately after the last loop, placing it along the bottom edge of the seven loops cast on. Knit 6 tbsp, inserting the hook under the wire vein between adjacent loops on it. Knit the 7th stitch from the 3rd warp loop. Knit the next three loops of the warp with single crochets, continuing to “hide” the wire frame inside. Then, only on the wire, knit 1 tbsp, 6 pst s/n, 1 tbsp. Bend the wire and knit in the opposite direction 1 tbsp, 6 pst s/n; Knit another st into the warp loop. Knit the next three loops of the warp with single crochets. For the third branch of the sheet, cast on 9 loops on the wire: 1 st b/n + 7 st s/n + 1 st s/n. Bend the wire and knit the loops in the opposite direction symmetrically. Continue knitting branches from every 3rd loop of the warp. At the same time, knit the 4th, 5th and 6th leaves on 10 loops (1 st b/n + 8 pst s/n + 1 st b/n), the 7th leaf - on 9 loops, the 8th on 8, 9th on 7. The 10th - the “apex” leaf - is knitted on a loop from the end of the base of 7 loops. The left side of the sheet is performed symmetrically.
For a small leaf, knit a chain of 20 chain stitches. Attach a wire bent in half; knit 3 tbsp s/n + 3 tbsp s/n + 6 tbsp s/n + 3 tbsp s/n + 4 tbsp s/n. Unfold the knitting and attach the wire without cutting it from the spool. Knit 3 tbsp. For the first toshoko branch, knit 6 tbsp on the wire, bend the wire and knit 6 tbsp in the opposite direction, knitting the last stitch from the warp loop. Knit the next three stitches of the warp in a st. For the second branch, cast on the wire 1 st b/n + 5 pst s/n + 1 st b/n and knit symmetrically in the opposite direction. Knit another 3 tbsp and for the third branch, cast on the wire 1 tbsp + 6 tbsp s/n + 1 tbsp; knit in the opposite direction. Tie the 4th branch in the same way; 5th - like the second; 6th - like the first. Tie the top leaf at the end of the base of 6 columns. Knit the left side symmetrically.
For the petals, use single crochet stitches to knit a rectangle 19 stitches long and 5 rows high. Next, using the Tunisian technique, knit 4 petals 7 loops high and 8 rows wide (2 rows from each warp loop). The gap between the petals is 1 column (4+1+4+1+4+1+4=19). Having finished the last petal, use connecting posts to go down to the first row of the rectangle and cut the thread, leaving an end of about 30 cm (photo 37). Roll the piece into a tube (right side out) and secure the base of the resulting cylinder with the remaining thread.
Knit the sepals for the bud with single crochets in a spiral: 6-12-18-18-18-18-18-18-18-18. Before starting knitting, leave the end of the thread about a meter long; bring it to the front side. Having finished the piece, cut the thread, leaving an end of about 30 cm.
Using a piece of green wire about 35 cm, pierce the base of the bud petals. Place the part in the middle, twist the wire ends by 3-4 mm. Seal the ends of the threads.
Insert the petals of the bud into the sepal, bringing the wire through the bottom of the sepal to the front side (photo 39). Fill the gap between the base of the petals and the walls of the sepals with filler. Using a thread from the edge of the sepal, sew it to the petals. Using a thread from the bottom, tie the wire with single crochets. At a distance of 3-4 cm from the bud, attach a small leaf to the stem (the wires from the leaf will become part of the stem) and continue tying for another 3-4 cm. When attaching the leaf to the stem, it is important not just to tie the ends of the wire together, but the very first post after the junction knit by inserting the hook into the end loop of the sheet. Otherwise, there is a risk of “losing” the sheet during operation: the wire may simply slip out of the binding.
Assembly6.
Knit the sepal for the flower (aka the base of the brooch) with single crochets in a spiral: 6-12-18-24-30-36-42-48-54. Increases within each row are made evenly, but from row to row it is better to shift their location so that the part turns out to be round rather than hexagonal.
Before the last row, attach a large sheet to the base (with the wrong side facing you, facing away from you!), and continue knitting, laying the wire and threads from the sheet around the perimeter of the base (photo 47). After 7-9 loops, attach the stem with the bud inside out to yourself, facing away from you (photo 48). Having finished the last row, cut the thread, leaving a fairly long end to sew the pin to the sepal and the sepal to the flower. Twist the protruding ends of the wire, if any remain, together, roll them into a ring and lay them flat on the part. Sew a brooch pin to the sepal, placing it just above the center. If you sew exactly in the center, it may “dangle” on the clothing. Sew the flower to the sepal7.
Poppy earrings
They turned out large: 5 cm in diameter. The most tedious part is twisting the wire for the stamens. My fingers still hurt. She planned to attach the shvenza to the sepals, but it didn’t work out. I collected it and discovered that the earring was warped and thrown back. I had to attach the wire to the petal. For this reason, the jewelry cable is visible on the reverse side. But I like the earrings themselves: they have a lock, unlike the previous ones. Now I'm trying unsuccessfully to remember where I bought them. 
Poppy earrings: second version
The second version of the poppy earrings turned out to be more miniature: 3.5 cm in diameter (the previous ones were 5 cm). I suspect that this is almost the maximum size.
I planted poppies on arches without a lock (mylosure). 
We should also make a ring. You just have to choose a suitable base.
Crochet snowdrops: detailed MK
Crochet snowdrops: detailed MK
Materials and tools
For leaves, bobbin threads (polyester + silk), hook 0.5; green wire. (Comment from the author) It must be admitted that the choice of threads is not entirely successful. Below I will outline my thoughts on this matter in more detail.
For flower shoe nylon 7K; hook 0.7; white (silver wire); some yellow beads.
For assembly, a needle with a wide eye, pliers, side cutters.
For one flower you need to knit three inner petals (in one piece), three outer petals (in one piece), a bract, a large leaf, and a calyx. All stitches are knitted using both half-loops.
Inner petals
3.
Knit a 3 by 3 rectangle with single crochets (photo 1). Attach the wire, leaving the end about 10 cm (do not cut the wire from the spool), knit a double stitch into the loop of the previous row (photo 2), cast on only 1 double stitch, 6 double stitches, 1 double stitch. n (photo 3). Bend the wire, placing it along the edge of the loops you just cast on; knit 1 st b/n and 6 pst s/n in the opposite direction, inserting the hook between the loops under both wire strands (photo 4, 5). Work a st b/n into the 1st warp loop, a st b/n into the 2nd loop. Similarly, knit the 2nd petal on the wire, then the 3rd. Work another 2-3 sc along the edge of the rectangle to go down to its base (photo 6). Fasten the thread; cut the thread and wire, leaving the end of the wire 10 cm long, the thread 15-20 cm. Use this thread to sew the edges of the rectangle so that you get a tube with petals (photo 7,8). Seal the ends of the threads (nylon ones can simply be tied in a knot and melted with a lighter). The tips of the petals need to be tinted green. You can embroider them if you know how to do it carefully. I don’t know how, so I decided to paint them (photo 9).
The first mistake was to use regular acrylic paints instead of special fabric paints. The paint did not spread, as I feared, but it significantly changed the texture of the canvas: the tips of the petals became rough and tactilely unpleasant. The second mistake is that when mixing paints, I tried to achieve only a believable shade that was pleasing to the eye, without checking the available supplies of green threads. Naturally, I missed. Not a single tone suited me, I had to buy more.
Outer petals
In a spiral, single crochet, tie a tube 6-9-9-9-9 (photo 10). Count the last stitch knitted as the first one. Cast on a chain of 11 ch. Starting from the second loop from the hook, knit 1 st b/n, 2 st s/n, 4 st s/n, 2 pst s/n, 1 st sc/n (photo 11). Knit single crochets into the 1st warp loop (the same one from which the petal “grows”), into the 2nd, 3rd and 4th. From the 4th loop, knit the second petal; from the 7th - the third (photo 12). Attach the wire and tie the petals around the perimeter with single crochets (photo 13). Leave the ends of the wire 10 cm long for the stem; bring them through the initial ring to the front side (photo 14). Seal the ends of the threads (photo 15).
I don’t yet see the possibility of knitting reliable pistil-stamens for a snowdrop. You can depict the yellow center (photo 16) like this: string a bead into the middle of a wire about 25 cm long, bend the wire in half and string beads on both ends in such a quantity that this bead column is level with the inner petals (or even slightly lower). To secure the “post”, string the last bead onto only one end of the wire, and pass the other end through it in the opposite direction. To assemble, you need to insert a bead column into a small petal circle (photo 17), all together into a large petal circle (photo 18).
Leaves, assembly
For the leaves, in this case, bobbin threads (polyester + silk; two threads) and a 0.5 hook were used.
I didn’t really like the result: two threads of different shades of green did not produce any noticeable color transitions and all this greenery looks rather dull. Thin sectional dyed yarn would fit perfectly here, but the YarnArt Tulip and YarnArt Violet sectionals I had turned out to be too thick for such a miniature flower. In the future I’m thinking about dyeing nylon threads myself, but for now I’ll tell you how I knitted this time.5.
For the bract leaf (photo 19), knit a chain of 11 chains. Starting from the second loop from the hook, knit 2 st b/n, 2 st s/n, 2 st s/n, 2 pst s/n, 2 st sc/n. Unfold the knitting, attach the wire to the edge of the piece, leaving the end about 10-12 cm long, and tie the sheet around the perimeter with single crochets. From the end, knit three stitches into one loop. Cut the wire, leaving an end of about 10-12 cm.
For a large sheet (photo 20), knit a chain of 31 ch. Starting from the second loop from the hook, knit 3 st b/n, 3 st s/n, 18 st s/n, 3 pst s/n, 3 st sc/n. Unfold the knitting, attach the wire to the edge of the part and tie the sheet around the perimeter: 4 tbsp s/n, 4 pst s/n, 14 tbsp s/n, 4 pst s/n, 3 tbsp s/n, in the loop at the top - 3 st b/n; symmetrically tie the second side of the sheet. Cut the wire, leaving an end 5-7 cm long.
Knit the cup (photo 21) in a spiral using single crochets: 6-12-12-12-12-12-12. To reduce the number of connections during assembly, it is better to first unwind a couple of meters of thread from the spool and knit a cup with this end. Closing the first row into a ring, you need to bring the thread from the spool to the front side.
Insert a flower into the cup (photo 22). Sew the edge of the cup to the petals. Use a thread coming out of the bottom of the cup to tie the wire veins - the stem of the flower (photo 23). Attach a small leaf 1-1.5 cm from the flower (photo 24). After another 5-6 cm, attach a large sheet. After 1.5-2 cm from the large leaf, bend the wire (you may have to use pliers) and knit the columns on the stem in the opposite direction to the leaf (photo 26). Cut off the excess wire with side cutters; seal the end of the thread.
I described this method of forming a stem because I myself used it in this version of snowdrops. I can't say that I'm completely satisfied with the result. A braid made from columns does not turn out as smooth as we would like on bobbin threads. When the ends of the wire veins become very short, they “crawl” onto the surface of the stem. It is almost impossible to bite them down: even if the “stumps” are not visible visually, they are felt tactilely. It is difficult to neatly bend a bundle of 10 wire strands.
What other option do I see? You can try not crocheting the wire stem, but simply wrapping it with thread. I did this when installing flowers from beads. Naturally, the winding must be tight, the turns must be laid one after another. For reliability, you can process the PVA thread as you wind it. What will it give? The stem will be thinner and more graceful, without excessive thickening at the end. The wire ends will not stick out through the threads. When choosing this method of making a stem, you cannot seal the ends of the threads from the sheets. The fact is that when tying a stem, the leaf is tied to it “by the meat”. When winding, there is no possibility of such a connection and there is a risk that the sheet will slide along the wire frame, exposing it. To avoid this, you need to wrap the stem together with these threads coming from the attached part.
A few more words about my unsuccessful attempt to collect three flowers into a brooch.
I purchased a “vertical flower pin” specifically for this purpose (photo 28). By design, it is a safety pin with an open ring attached. You need to insert flowers into this ring and clamp them with pliers. In theory, everything is fast, simple and reliable. I made a bouquet, put it in a ring, and clamped the ring with pliers. After this manipulation, the ring, which had previously sat firmly on the pin, began to move freely along it up and down and rotate left and right. I had to twist it out and secure the pin with thread and wire. As a result, the inside looks completely unpresentable (photo 31).
Another problem with the pin was that the metal ring “hugging” the stems was visible on the front side of the bouquet (photo 29). I had to tie an extra leaf and sew it to the stem to cover the ring. No matter how hard I tried, I couldn’t make the junction invisible (photo 30). Options? First, look for high-quality fittings that will behave decently. Secondly, the “camouflage” leaf must be attached to the stem directly when assembling the flower, and not to a ready-made bouquet. It is necessary to understand, however, that if the stem is not wrapped, but tied, then it will be practically impossible to position it at the desired angle without skewing the “pigtail”.
Crochet snowdrops: working on mistakes
I knitted the third version of snowdrops. Fixed some errors.
I have already written that monotonously colored green threads in snowdrops look rather dull, and there are no thin enough sections on sale. I haven’t gotten around to dyeing my favorite shoe nylon yet, but I bought floss in the color I wanted to try. Cotton, 6 threads, 8 m per skein. 6 threads is, of course, too many. I rewound three. From 8 meters in three threads three large leaves for a snowdrop come out. It’s not cheap, to be honest; but the leaves look much more graceful.
As planned, this time I did not tie the stems, but wrapped them. They turned out thin and neat. And now it’s not a shame to show the inside out.
The issue with the fittings remains open. This time I acted as carefully as possible and the ring on the pin does not move up and down, but it does rotate left and right, although with a small amplitude.
Blooming apple tree
Another brooch is a blossoming apple tree branch. For petals: shoe nylon 7K and hook 0.9. For leaves: Micron polyester 20s/3 and hook 0.5. The leaves are embroidered with floss in 2 folds. Stamens made of beads and wire.
Chamomiles: hair ties
Chamomiles: hair ties
Hair bands with daisies
100% cotton and this time no internal frame. The elastic is knitted into the cup; the cup is sewn to the petals.
A brooch is a wonderful accessory that will help diversify any look. This thing is very relevant at the present time, because with its help you can decorate absolutely any item of clothing. Crocheted brooches look very interesting, but finding a really worthwhile item in a store is not at all easy, but don’t despair, because you can do everything yourself: you can get a stylish little thing and spend a useful evening. After reading our article, you will easily cope with this task, because we will tell you in detail how to crochet a brooch with diagrams and descriptions.
Unusual option
Perhaps the most unusual looking brooches are those tied with a pin. You can make absolutely any figurine in this style, but, to be honest, you won’t surprise anyone with flowers and butterflies. We bring to your attention a master class on creating a brooch in the shape of a bird.
You will need:
- Yarn;
- A large enough pin for the base;
- The legs are from toy birds, but you can do without them, or you can make them from thread;
- A beak for a bird, which can also be made from thread, or bought at a craft store;
- Wool thread to fill the figurine;
- Two eyes, you can embroider them or buy them ready-made at a craft store;
- Threads to match;
- Needle;
- Hook No. 2.
First you need to cast on the loops on the pin; to do this, tie it with half single crochet stitches. Next, work according to the scheme presented below.
Brooch-flower
We invite you to create a very delicate and feminine brooch using the free-form technique. This accessory will be a great addition to any romantic look. In addition, this brooch will be in the shape of a flower, and what woman doesn’t love flowers, because this is an imperishable classic that will perfectly emphasize your femininity.
You will need:
- Yarn;
- A bead or a beautiful button for the core;
- A base for a brooch, preferably round;
- Glue.
First you need to make a chain of six air loops and close them into a ring with a connecting post.
We knit the next row in the same way: two chain stitches and fourteen half-columns. Thus, our walls begin to rise, if this is the case, then you are doing everything right.
In this “plate” you need to place the button or bead you have chosen, make sure that the middle is the right size.
Now we need to strengthen our middle, for this we knit another row in the same way as we did before (two chain loops, fourteen half-columns).
We break the thread and fasten it.
Now crochet the thread to the wrong side.
We knit the thread below one or two rows.
Now you need to knit two chain loops and twenty-nine half-columns; we do this by knitting two half-columns in each loop.
Now you need to make three chain loops to lift to the next row, and then three double crochets in each loop. We repeat this action ten times.
Then you need to make three chain loops and attach them to the base of the single crochet column.
Working according to this principle, we go down to the previous row and continue to work in this way: one half-column, another half-column, two half-columns. We work like this until the ruffle begins.
Now we knit seven connecting stitches under the ruffle and make three air loops for lifting. We knit the second ruffle using the same principle (three double crochets in each stitch, repeating this ten times, then we make three chain loops and go down to the previous row).
Then we knit three columns without a crochet.
Now we make two air lifting loops and begin work on the third ruffle. We knit it like this: three double crochets in each stitch and repeat this fifteen times.
Now you need to bring the working thread to the front side, we knit a small ruffle near the middle, thus: two air lifting loops, and then three half-columns in each loop. We repeat this twelve times.
Now we break the thread and fasten the loop.
Using a crochet hook, pull the thread onto the wrong side of the product and secure it with glue.
Lubricate the previously prepared base with glue.
And glue the brooch itself to the base.
Your cute brooch is ready!
Video on the topic of the article
Every woman can acquire a unique piece of jewelry, and for this you don’t have to spend a lot of effort and money, just spend a couple of evenings and a little patience, and you will become the owner of an exclusive accessory, because if you make a brooch with your own hands, no one else will have the same one. We recommend that you watch the videos below, in which you will learn many more interesting ideas and techniques with which you can crochet a brooch.
