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The trendy skirt, which fits tightly around the hips and has an elegant cutout at the back, is a classic style that is popular among modern women. This is a basic wardrobe item that helps its owner look chic, feminine and confident. The product is easy to sew yourself if you know the basics of sewing and make the right pattern.
How to cut a pencil skirt
Sewing clothes that fit your unique shape and size may seem like a complicated process, but if you carefully cut the product, it will definitely work out. How to make a pencil skirt pattern? To do this, you need to have a couple of tools and a desire to please yourself with a new thing. After doing a few mathematical calculations, you will get a skirt template to suit your figure. When making a pattern, you should, first of all, start from the fabric from which you are going to sew the item.
Fabric for pencil skirt
The quality of the material depends on your desire. The question of how much fabric is needed for a pencil skirt worries every seamstress who is going to sew a new product for herself. The amount consumed depends on factors such as the style of the item, its length, width and hip volume of the future owner. When purchasing fabric, you should take into account the increase that will be used for seams, hems, decorative inserts or vents. There are rules, following which, even a novice seamstress will not go wrong with the amount of material for a pencil skirt pattern:
- If the hip volume is less than 145 cm, then the amount of fabric needed is calculated as follows: the desired length of the product is determined, and 20 cm is added to it for seams and other elements.
- If the hip volume is more than 145 cm, then the length of the skirt is multiplied by 2 and another 20 cm is added.
How to cut a pencil skirt - step by step instructions
Before you sew yourself a new thing, you need to create a pattern. Those who do needlework know how to cut a pencil skirt: to construct it, you need to take measurements and create a grid drawing of the base. Do it like this:
- To start, take three main measurements: the circumference around your waist, the distance from your waist to your hips, and the distance from your hips to your knee.
- Make a template for half of the skirt: take a large piece of paper, draw a rectangle with the long side towards the edge of the paper. The rectangle should correspond to the lengths of the measurements plus 12 cm for the waistband and hem. The figure should be as wide as the hip measurement plus 2cm for seam allowance.
- From the waist, measure the length of the product plus 6 cm for the belt. Mark this point on the long side of the rectangle. Carefully draw a curved line from the waist to the mark you just created. Then mark a curve from the knees to the hem 6 cm inward from the outer bottom edge of the rectangle. Mark this point.
- Cut out the template.
Pattern of a pencil skirt for beginners - step-by-step instructions
If you manage to cut out the product, then consider that success in sewing is almost guaranteed. All that remains is to take a few more steps. When you cut the fabric according to the pattern, do not forget to add two centimeters on all sides so that the item does not end up being tight, especially for material that does not stretch. So, to sew a pencil skirt with your own hands for beginners, step-by-step master classes have been developed. For example, here is how to make a pattern for a straight model pencil skirt, which has a narrowed shape, a vent and a belt:
- Make a drawing, then transfer its outlines to paper.
- Lower the hip line 7-8 cm along the side seam, place point A4 on the back half and A5 on the front.
- From the existing points, draw a bevel to the bottom line, narrowing the future skirt.
- If the length of the product is about 50-60 cm, then bend 2 cm on each side along the bottom line, and from these new points draw a side seam to the existing points. It is worth noting that the angles must be 90 degrees, otherwise the bottom will “bounce”.
- Create a vent (up to 5 cm wide, 18 to 20 cm high) or mark the height of the cut by placing a mark in the middle of the back of the pattern.
- Add seam allowances and begin cutting on the fabric.
Modeling a pencil skirt
You can choose a different cut of a pencil skirt, the main thing here is not to ignore the individual characteristics of the figure, correctly calculate the parameters so that when sewing the product fits perfectly to the figure. The pencil skirt has a tight-fitting style, so you need to accurately measure the waist, the distance from the waist to the hips and from the hips to the knee, and position the zipper correctly. Modeling a pencil skirt is not a difficult task, but it requires exact numbers and a detailed description.
High waist pencil skirt
This item is a universal outfit that will suit both slender girls and those with curvy figures. A high-waisted pencil skirt can be short or slightly below the knees, and it can be made from any material, for example, suiting fabric or knitwear of any density. Before cutting out a high-waisted product, you should take into account the load on the fabric, because the loose texture will not last too long.
Knitted pencil skirt
Products made from this material have won the hearts of more than one girl and woman. The peculiarity of narrow knitted skirts is that, while hugging the figure, they can emphasize the folds of the body, so they are recommended for thin girls to wear, or you can use slimming underwear. The product shown in the photo has a number of advantages that make it a favorite in women’s wardrobes:
- A pencil skirt is very easy to make with your own hands, and it can be of any length, high-waisted or with a vent - it all depends on your imagination.
- The product fits the hips, favorably emphasizing the smooth curves of the female silhouette.
- The length to maple or slightly below is universal, so the skirt can be combined with business and casual wear.
- Knitted skirts wear well, do not wrinkle, and are easy to care for.
Pencil skirt below the knee
The product, as in the photo, was just recently worn exclusively by business women, and today many people choose this style. A pencil skirt below the knee looks ideal on girls of small stature, because it helps to visually lengthen the figure and legs. A slit at the back or sides allows freedom of movement, while maintaining an attractive, tight-fitting shape that every lady can cut and sew herself.
Classic pencil skirt
This type of clothing should be in the wardrobe of every true lady. A classic pencil skirt goes well with many types of clothing; it favorably emphasizes the femininity and beauty of its owner’s figure. It is worth noting that if you know even a little about sewing, then patterning a pencil skirt is a piece of cake for you, because detailed master classes on the process of creating a new thing are in almost every issue of the fashion magazine Burda.
Pencil skirt with pockets
If, when making your own skirt pattern, you want to give it some flirtatiousness, then you should consider this model. The pencil skirt with pockets has a loose style, so it can even be considered youth clothing. Different pockets can give the finished product a completely different mood: slightly protruding pockets are liked by lovers of informal style, while welt pockets with exquisite embroidery at the top are preferred by luxurious and self-confident ladies.
Pencil skirt with front slit
The elegant slit on the skirt cannot help but attract attention. A product with such a nuance will look more seductive. So, a pencil skirt with a front slit is suitable for women of any age, but it is better to make it no more than 10-15 centimeters so that the lady does not look vulgar. There are a lot of photos that demonstrate the beautiful appearance of the owners of such skirts.
Video: How to make a pencil skirt pattern
Found an error in the text? Select it, press Ctrl + Enter and we will fix everything!A classic pencil skirt is a universal model of women's clothing that will look irresistible in any design and will be very appropriate in any situation - from an informal party to a business event. An elegant high-waisted pencil skirt will allow every woman to look irresistible in any setting.
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However, it should be noted that the same model made from different fabrics will look completely different. Based on this, Several general patterns can be deduced:
- For a business meeting or going out to the office, tweed, tartan, gabardine, loden, jacquard, boucle, etc. are perfect.
- For everyday outings, skirts made of corduroy, denim, knitwear, crepe de Chine, linen, and georgette will be good.
- Evening clothing style is well emphasized by velor, velvet, suede, lace, fur, satin, taffeta.
Building the basis of the pattern
Before sewing a pencil skirt with your own hands, you need to build a base - a straight two-seam skirt.
Even a novice craftswoman can do this. Below is a step-by-step master class on creating a pattern.
You need to start working by creating a basic pattern for a straight skirt. To do this, you need to take the following measurements:
To create a pattern with your own hands you will need a millimeter.
- First you need to draw a basic line. To do this, a conditional point T is placed on the paper. A line is drawn from it strictly perpendicularly downwards.
- Next, the bottom edge is determined and drawn. To do this, on a line drawn from point T, a segment equal to the length of the product from the back waist (DS) is laid off. At the other end of the segment we place the letter H.
- From point H we draw a line horizontally to the right.
- Draw the line of the hips. To do this, a segment is laid down from point T. Its length is calculated using the formula DST /2–1 cm. Having determined this point, we designate it with the letter B. As a rule, the distance from the waist to the hips can vary in the range from 10 to 20 cm.
Construction of the front and rear canvas
To build the front canvas, you need to find the middle line.
- To do this, draw a segment along the hip line from point B. The length of this segment should be equal to the half-circumference of the hips and the seam allowance. At the end of the segment we place point B1.
- From point B1 a straight line is drawn straight down.
- Where the new line intersects with the bottom line, mark point H1. The next segment is laid upward from this point. Its length is equal to the DP figure. Point T1 is placed at this location.
- Next, the line of side cuts is constructed. To do this, a segment is drawn from point B. Its length is equal to half the size of the FOB + seam allowance. It is necessary to subtract 1 cm from this value. The resulting point on the segment will be called B2.
- From point B 2 downwards we draw a straight line until it intersects with the lower straight line. This intersection point will be called H2.
- From point H2 we draw a line vertically upward and lay a segment on it. Its length is equal to the number DU. At this end of the segment, point T2 is marked.
Next you need to outline the darts. A classic straight skirt has front, back and side darts. The total width of all open darts (∑B) implies the difference in the half-circumference of the hips and waist, taking into account the seam allowance.
- Side dart. Its area should be half the number (∑B). It is recommended to start sewing the dart 2 cm above the hip level.
- The back dart is calculated using the formula TT 1 = FOB ÷ 4–2 cm
- The front dart formula looks like T 1 T 2 = FOB ÷ 4–1 cm
- The front dart starts 7–8 cm above the hip line
The width of the back panel of the skirt along the bottom line is equal to the width of the product at the hips + 4 cm. The width of the front panel is equal to the width at the hips + 3 cm.
We got the basic straight skirt pattern. On its basis the pattern of a pencil skirt will be completed.
Constructing a pencil skirt pattern
To build a pencil skirt model with your own hands, you will need to narrow the skirt fabric at the bottom and make a vent on the back fabric. This will provide more freedom of movement. The narrowing can range from 1 to 3 cm.
To create a vent on the pattern of a tapered skirt, you need to make an additional allowance of 8 cm. The back panel is cut from 2 halves, which will need to be sewn together using a longitudinal seam.
Constructing a High Waist Skirt
To improve the proportions of your figure, you can create a pattern for a high-waisted pencil skirt. Such a knee-length skirt will look very advantageous, will highlight all the advantages of your figure and hide imperfections.
To create your own high-waisted pattern the belt of the desired length is drawn. This is done using vertical lines drawn up from the points on the waist line. All new points obtained are connected and a new waist line is obtained. This will require slightly reducing the depth of the darts. You can sew darts by adding 5 mm along the top edge. The height of the side cut is also raised by 5 mm. As a result, you will get a skirt with a one-piece belt.
We bring to your attention a method for constructing a straight skirt pattern. This technique takes into account some individual characteristics of a particular person.
We start by taking measurements.
In order to take measurements correctly, you need to tie a lace or thin elastic band around the waistline. Moreover, the lace should lie in the place of the body where the skirt belt is usually located when worn, and not horizontally to the floor. Otherwise, during wear, the skirt belt will inevitably tend to take its usual position, which will entail a displacement of the side seams towards the front or back, i.e. a violation of their verticality, and therefore a violation of the horizontality of the bottom line. The entire appearance of the skirt will suffer from this.
The process of taking measurements should always be approached with special responsibility, since the final result depends on it.
To draw a skirt drawing, in addition to the half-circumferences of the waist and hips, you need to take the following measurements:
In our table, as an example, we took half-girth measurements for size 48, the length is arbitrary, and you take your measurements or the measurements of the person for whom you are going to sew this skirt.
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Half waist St |
For belt products, the half-waist measurement is measured at the place of the body and in the position where the skirt belt is usually worn, and not horizontally to the floor. The measurement is recorded in half size. |
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Half hip circumference Sat |
Measure horizontally along the most protruding points of the buttocks, taking into account the convexity of the abdomen. The measurement is recorded in half size. |
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Distance from waist to floor in front |
Measure along the middle of the front vertically down from the lace at the waist to the floor. The measurement is recorded in full. |
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Distance from waist to floor at side |
Measure along the side line vertically down from the lace at the waist to the floor. The measurement is recorded in full. |
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Rear waist to floor distance |
Measure from the back in the middle of the back vertically down from the lace at the waist line to the floor. The measurement is recorded in full. |
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Distance from floor to bottom edge of skirt |
Measure from the floor to the desired length of the skirt. Or it is determined by calculation, subtracting the desired length of the skirt from the distance from the waist to the floor. For example, 102-67(skirt length) = 35cm. The measurement is recorded in full. |
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Back length to waist Dst |
Measure from the seventh cervical vertebra to the waist line. The measurement is recorded in full. |
In addition to the basic measurements, it is necessary to provide allowances for a loose fit along the waist and hips. These values depend on several factors, such as the thickness and density of the fabric, the characteristics of a particular figure, fashion trends, client wishes, etc. And most importantly, you determine all this based on what problems you need to solve.
We will take the following increases:
Along the waist line Fri - 0 cm
Along the hip line Pb - 1 cm.
The peculiarity of this technique is that the construction of the pattern begins not from the waist line, but from the bottom line of the skirt. Therefore, we will begin the construction from the lower left corner with the vertex at point H. From this point upward we plot the length of the skirt behind the Duse.
To determine the length of the back of the skirt, we subtract: The distance from the waist to the floor at the back minus the distance from the floor to the bottom edge of the skirt.
Nozzle=101-35=66 cm.
From point H upward we set aside 66 cm and place point T.
The distance from the waist line to the hip line usually ranges from 18-20 cm (rarely up to 23 cm), regardless of how it is determined. Therefore, in some methods this value is proposed as a constant, for example, 18 cm for all sizes. You can determine it using the formula - this is 1/2 of the length of the back to the waist minus 1-2 cm, or even simpler - take a centimeter and measure this distance on a specific figure.
From point T downwards we will put the result obtained and place point B.
In our example, this is 18 cm, we determined it using the above-mentioned formula Dst: 2 - 1 cm = 38: 2 - 1 = 18 cm.
From point B to the right we draw a horizontal line.
We determine the width of the skirt - the half-circumference of the hips plus an increase for a loose fit.
Sat + Fri = 52 + 1 = 53 cm
From point B to the right we set this value aside and place point B1. Through point B1 we draw a vertical line up and down. Let us denote the point of intersection with the bottom line by the letter H1
To determine the length of the skirt in front of the Dupe, we subtract: The distance from the waist to the floor in front minus the distance from the floor to the bottom edge of the skirt.
In our example it looks like this:
Dupe = 100 - 35 = 65 cm.
From point H1 we set aside 65 cm upward and place point T1.
The position of the side seam can be determined using the formula given below, but you always need to take into account the characteristics of a particular figure (bulging buttocks, protruding belly) and based on this, move the side seam in one direction or another. In our example, the side seam is determined by the formula:
Distance BB1 (skirt width) divided by 2 plus 1 cm.
53:2+1=27.5 cm.
From point B1 to the left we set aside 27.5 cm and put point B2 through which we draw a vertical line. The point of intersection with the bottom line is designated by the letter H2.
Side skirt length.
To determine the side length of the skirt, we subtract:
The distance from the waist to the floor at the side minus the distance from the floor to the bottom edge of the skirt.
In our example it looks like this:
102 - 35 = 67 cm, and you do the calculations with your numbers.
From point H2 upward we set aside 67 cm and place point T2.
We connect points T, T2 and T1 with straight lines.
Calculation of darts along the waist line.
The total opening of darts along the waist line is determined by subtracting the half-circumference of the waist with an increase for a loose fit from the width of the skirt along the hip line, i.e. from the half-girth of the hips with an increase for a loose fit.
In our example, it looks like this: (Sat+Pb) - (St+Fri)=(52+1) - (38+0) = 15 cm.
And you substitute your values into the formula.
The front dart opening is equal to 0.16 - 0.2 of the total dart opening 0.2 x 15 = 3 cm.
The back dart opening is equal to 0.3-0.35 of the total dart opening 0.35 x 15 = 5.2 cm.
The side dart solution is equal to 0.45-0.5 of the total dart solution 0.45 x 15 = 6.8 cm.
The coefficient that you choose for calculations should reflect the characteristics of a particular figure as accurately as possible.
Check: 3 cm + 5.2 cm + 6.8 cm =15 cm
Front dart position can be determined by calculation, but it is better to proceed from the features of the figure and, in accordance with them, move the dart closer to the side line or to the line of the middle front, depending on these features (the presence and shape of the abdomen).
Moreover, the position of the darts, both on the front and back panels, can be determined during the first fitting. Details of this method are in the following articles.
In this example, we determine the position of the dart using one of several existing formulas:
Divide the width of the skirt along the hip line by 5:
BB1: 5 = 53: 5 = 10.6 cm.
From point B1 to the left we set aside 10.6 cm and place point B3. From this point upward, draw a vertical line until it intersects with the waist line and place point T3.
The length of the front dart can vary significantly in size (from 6 to 14 cm or more), if we are talking about an individual approach.
In our example, we will determine it using the formula, multiplying the tuck solution by 4, we get: 3 x 4 = 12 cm.
We put this value down from point T3 and place point B.
From point T3 to the left and right we set aside half of the front dart solution 3: 2 = 1.5 cm and put points B1 and B2.
Connect point B with points B1 and B2. Using a compass, align the sides of the dart with the smaller side and place point B3. (Fig. 11 Enlarged)
The sides of the darts can be straight or curved. Their configuration depends on the shape of the abdomen. In our example, the darts are slightly curved, and you are guided by the data of your client’s figure.
Position, length and depth of the back dart.
The position of the back dart can be determined by calculation, similar to the front dart, but it is always necessary to take into account the features of the figure and adjust the position of the darts in accordance with them. If necessary, move the dart closer to the side line or to the mid-front line.
The length of the back dart should also be based on the characteristics of a particular figure (buttock shape). You just need to keep in mind that the top of the back dart should not come closer than 3 - 4 cm to the hip line (to the protruding point of the buttocks).
We determine the position of the back dart in the same way as the front:
BB1: 5 = 53: 5 = 10.6 cm.
From point B to the right we set aside 10.6 cm and place point B4. Draw a vertical line from point B4 upward. At the point of intersection with the waist line we place point T4.
From point T4 downwards we set aside the length of the dart 14-15 cm and place point B4.
From point T4 to the left and right we put aside half of the back dart solution 5.2: 2 = 2.6 cm and put points B5 and B6.
We connect point B4 with points B5 and B6.
Using a compass, align the sides of the dart along the larger side and place point B7.
The sides of the darts can be straight or curved. Their configuration depends on the shape of the buttocks. A figure with flat or lush buttocks, all these are individual characteristics of a particular figure, and this is where we should proceed from.
In our example, we curved the sides of the back dart slightly to ensure a good fit on the moderately plump buttocks of our hypothetical client.
When determining the length of the side dart, you should take into account that the area from the waist to the hips along the side line for each person has an individual configuration.
The length of the side dart depends on the steepness of the hips of a particular person, i.e. the one for whom you are making the pattern.
On average, the length of the side dart is 15 -18 cm.
From point T2 down the side line we set aside 16 cm and place point B8.
From point T2 to the left and right we put aside half of the side dart solution 6.8: 2 = 3.4 cm and put points B9 and B10.
If the resulting size is more than 4 cm, then it is better to make two darts on the front and back panels of the skirt rather than putting everything in the side darts.
We connect points B9 and B10 with a dotted line to point B8. Using a compass, align the sides of the dart along the larger side and place point B11.
If you are creating a pattern for a proportionally folded figure, divide the sides of the dart in half and set aside 0.3 - 0.5 cm from the resulting division points at right angles to the auxiliary lines and draw the side lines in a smooth curve.
If you are dealing with a figure in which the steepness of the hips has its own characteristics, then the side line should be brought into line with this steepness.
Moreover, this does not mean that the side line should follow the curves of the figure. Rather, it means that by changing the configuration of the side line, you can change the accents, i.e. hide something, veil it and thus achieve the desired visual effect.
When cutting in places that cause you doubts, increase the allowances for later clarification during fitting and possible correction of cut details.
Finally, we draw the line of the upper cut of the skirt with a concave line with closed darts.
IMPORTANT: The line of the top cut of the skirt should approach the middle lines at a right angle.
The construction is complete.
This is a basic straight skirt pattern.
Based on it, you can create various styles of skirts.
The finished pencil skirt pattern is designed for girls and women of curvy shapes with a hip circumference from 110 to 128 cm.
Pencil skirt occupies a leading position among styles and types of clothing that fit perfectly into the wardrobe of overweight women.
This is an almost standard pencil skirt pattern, which is what makes it good, as it can be used as a basis for modeling.
Even if you are just starting to understand the basics of tailoring, this style will easily conquer you.
Thick knitwear is ideal for sewing - this is a friendly recommendation (tested from personal experience). You can also use other fabrics.
Waist circumference 86 92 98 104 cm.
Hip circumference 110 116 122 128 cm.
The pattern is given in actual size without seam allowances
How to prepare a pattern for cutting a skirt:
After receiving the file with the skirt pattern, print the first sheet with a square of 10 by 10 cm, check the scale, if necessary, achieve full compliance with this size (10x10) using the printer settings. Now you can print all other sheets. Glue the pattern sheets together - this can be done using narrow tape or a glue stick, cut out the pieces to the size that suits you and the pattern is ready to work.
Before you start cutting the skirt, make sure that the parameters of the pattern match your girth. Also adjust the length of the skirt.
When cutting, make allowances slightly larger than usual in those places where adjustments are possible during fitting.
CUT DETAILS
- Skirt front panel 1 piece with fold
- Back panel of skirt 2 parts
- Additionally, you should cut a belt with a length of 92-98-104-110 (according to the size) and a width of 6 cm, plus seam allowances.
Once again I remind you of the need to give seam allowances, since the pattern is given without allowances. For stitched seams, 1.5 cm is enough; for hems, leave a standard 4 cm.
The skirt can be sewn either with or without lining.
The lining is cut according to the main patterns.
Sewing
After stitching, overcast all sections and iron or iron them in accordance with the style of the product.
- Sew darts on the front and back panels of the skirt, iron to the center line.
- Sew the middle section of the back panel of the skirt between the control marks. Leave an open area for a zipper - at the top, and for a small slit, allowing free walking - at the bottom of the middle seam of the skirt.
- Sew in the zipper.
- Finish the cut at the bottom of the middle seam of the skirt.
- Stitch the side seams.
- Process the top section of the skirt, having previously duplicated the skirt waistband with an adhesive gasket.
- Hem the bottom.
You should not have any special difficulties when sewing this skirt model. The style itself is simple, and must obey you.
Hi all!
It is clear why the method of constructing a skirt drawing , has generated so much interest in the sewing world. Simple, affordable, fast. Fast results with a minimum of measurements.
However, not all sewing lovers like such simplicity. Many people prefer something more substantial and... domestic.
Straight skirt pattern size 50.
To construct a drawing of a straight skirt, let’s take the dimensional characteristics of size 50 (height 164 cm, full group 1, chest volume - 100 cm, waist volume - 78.2 cm, hip volume - 104 cm (taking into account the protrusion of the abdomen)).
Note. For a proportional, typical figure, it will be sufficient to draw a drawing of a straight skirt for half the figure. Therefore, all volume measurements are “used in this matter” at half size. In different sources there are different designations for “halves” of volumes: Pot - half waist circumference, Pob - half hip circumference. And St is also half waist circumference, and Sb is half hip circumference. Both abbreviations are correct.
(On how to correctly take measurements of a figure there will be a separate article).
One more thing. For a free fit of the finished skirt to the figure, ease of movement, for heat exchange and breathing of the body, when drawing a skirt, you need to take into account the allowance for freedom of fit.
Depending on the desired tightness of the fit for a straight skirt, increases are made along the waist and hips.
Note. The first number in each column is for skirts made from thin fabrics, the second for thick ones.
To start building the pattern, we need to make one more “calculation”. Mathematically, you need to “find” the distance from the waist to the knee. We know the height of the waist line - 103.2 cm. The height of the knee point is also 45.4 cm. 103.2 - 45.4 = 57.8 cm.
So, the distance from the waist line to the knee is 57.8 cm. But in the pattern, this is the distance from the waist line to the hem line. But in fact, this is the length of the skirt. Up to the knee!
Why is the skirt pattern first built to the knee line?
The fact is that only this length of the skirt pattern (from the waist line to the knee line) allows later, after the project is completed, to use the finished skirt without making any preliminary changes to its pattern. Such a skirt can even not be equipped with a vent (slit). Its absence will not become an obstacle to freedom of movement.
If you want to make the skirt shorter or longer, you can’t do without making changes to the side line. Changes in the lateral lines occur both on the back part and on the front part, symmetrically.
Short skirts should be tapered at the bottom to a width of 0.5 - 2 cm, depending on the length. You need to start tapering at a distance of 8-10 cm from the hip line.
When lengthening the skirt, changes to the side line can begin just above the hip line. And at the bottom the skirt widens by 2-3 cm, depending on the length.
And shortening - narrowing the skirt, and lengthening - widening, and here and there, for freedom of movement, either a cut or a slot will be necessary (according to the model, at will).
(The skirt can be shortened by -25 cm and extended by +45 cm).
Constructing a straight skirt pattern.
Basic grid.
The construction of a straight skirt pattern begins with the construction of a base mesh. The basic grid is a set of auxiliary vertical and horizontal lines that determine the overall dimensions of the main parts of the product.
The basic grid consists of three horizontal and five vertical lines. Horizontal lines are the lines of the waist, hips and bottom. The vertical lines are the lines of the middle of the front and back panels, the side line, the lines of the back and front darts.
- waistline;
- bottom line;
- line of the middle of the rear panel;
- lateral line;
- line of the middle of the front panel;
- hip line;
- back dart line;
- front dart line.
How is the base mesh constructed? Distances, lines, segments, points, etc.
Construction of the base grid.
Below is an example of calculation for constructing a straight skirt (height 164, size 50, fullness 1).
Base grid points.
In local areas of the base grid (waist line, hip line, bottom line), the intersection points of lines and the ends of segments are designated for convenience by the letters T (waist), B (hips), H (bottom).
Lines, segments.
- The construction of the mesh begins with the construction of a right angle with the vertex at point T.
- The segment TB (see Table 3) down vertically determines the position of the hip line.
- TN segment (see Table 3) bottom line.
- Horizontal lines are drawn through points B and H. The lengths of the segments TT1, BB1 and NN1 are the same. And segment BB1 is the width of the skirt along the hip line plus an increase for freedom of fit (see Table 3).
- The segment BB2 determines the position of the side line: BB2 = 0.5 x BB1 - 1 (see table 3).
- The position of the back dart is determined by segment BB3. It is deposited from point B to the right horizontally and is equal to 0.4 x BB2 (see Table 3).
- The position of the front dart is determined by the segment B1B4. It is deposited from point B1 to the left horizontally and is equal to 0.4 x B1B2 (see Table 3).
Waistline.
The true waistline of a skirt is not a straight line. The real waistline still needs to be built. And to do this, it is necessary to determine the magnitude of the rise of the waist line along the side line and the line of the middle of the front panel.
Raising the waistline along the lateral line. The segment T2T20 (see Table 4) is laid vertically upward from point T2.
Rise along the mid-front line. The segment T1T10 (see Table 4) is laid vertically up from point T1.
We connect the points with segments: T, T20, T11.
We extend the lines of the back and front darts until they intersect with the specified waist line. We denote the resulting points as T30 (rear panel) and T40 (front panel of the skirt).
Darts.
The difference between the volumes of the hips and waist, along with allowances for a loose fit, is removed in darts.
Total darts ∑B=(Sb+Pb) – (St+Pt)= 54 – 40.1 (see table 5).
The side dart removes 50% of the entire difference between the hip and waist volumes. In the back 35%, in the front 15% (see table 5).
When constructing a drawing of a skirt, the solution for each of the three darts must be divided by 2. In the case of a figure of size 50, 1 fullness - the following numbers are obtained:
side dart 0.5 x ∑B = 6.95 cm (½ solution - 3.48 cm);
rear dart 0.35 x ∑B = 4.865 cm (½ opening - 2.4 cm);
front dart 0.15 x ∑B = 2.085 cm (½ solution - 1.04 cm); cm.
Side dart.
The depth of the side dart does not reach the hip line 2 cm.
From point T20 to the sides, straight from the top along the segments (refined waist line), we put aside half of the side dart solution.
Even with the naked eye it is clear that the segment, the one laid to the right and located on the side of the front panel of the skirt, has a smaller deviation from the imaginary horizontal line (from point T20) than the other, laid to the left and located on the side of the rear panel. This means that this side of the dart will be higher than the other.
The rule is half the tuck solution.
The sides of the darts are aligned along the larger side.
Therefore, first we build the right side of the side dart. We connect the end of the segment set aside from point T20 (to the right! down) with an auxiliary point on the side line.
The side of the side dart should be decorated with a smooth line. To do this, divide the set aside segment in half.
And we build a perpendicular to the point marked on the line. Depending on the shape of the hips (steep, flat, normal), the segment can be from 0.1 cm to 1.2 cm. (Here 8 mm).
We connect three points with an arc.
The sides of the side dart or both parts (according to the model) will be connected by a seam, so the bend of the side line of the back panel above the hip line should be exactly the same as on the front panel. To do this, you should build a mirror copy of the drawn arc.
From the point (end of the segment (1/2 of the side dart opening, set aside from point T20 to the right)) we build a perpendicular to the side line.
And then we put exactly the same segment on the other side of the side line.
In the picture below you can see how the locations of the points differ: 1st - the end of the segment of ½ side dart solution, laid from point T20 to the left and 2nd - the point at the end of the newly constructed segment (a copy of the right side).
This is fine. I would even say it's correct. That's how it should be. (see “Half Dart Rule” above).
From the resulting point, using the same principle as on the side of the front panel, we build the second side of the side dart.
Back dart.
From point T30 down vertically we set off the length of the back dart. The length of the back dart can be from 13 to 17 cm. Here (16 cm).
From point T30 to the side, up the segment, towards point T20, set aside ½ of the back dart solution (see table 5).
We connect the resulting point with an auxiliary point on the line of the back dart.
We follow the rule of half the tuck solution! (see above in the article).
We build the second side of the back dart exactly the same as the first, with a length and angle of deviation from the vertical line. To do this, from point T30 up horizontally a little, 1-2 centimeters, we will continue the line of the back dart.
And from the point (the right end of the ½ back dart opening segment) to the extended line we will construct a perpendicular.
We are building exactly the same one on the opposite side.
We connect the left end of the resulting segment with an auxiliary point on the line of the back dart.
Front dart.
From point T40 down vertically we set off the length of the front dart. It can be from 10 to 12 cm. (Here 11 cm).
The end of the segment is marked with a line mark.
Following the rule of “half the dart solution”, see above in the article, we put it to the left and slightly up along the line of ½ the front dart solution (see table 5).
We connect the left end of the set aside segment with an auxiliary point on the line of the front dart.
The right side of the front dart is built according to the same rules as the left side of the back dart (see above in the article).
From the base of the right side of the back dart and the left side of the front dart, as well as from point T10, towards the side line, you need to make auxiliary horizontal lines that cannot be climbed behind when drawing arcs (waist line).
And now we “draw” the arcs.
We connect with arcs:
dot T with a dot on the left side of the back dart.
A dot on the right side of the back dart with a dot on the left side of the side dart.
Dot on the right side of the side dart with a dot on the left side of the front dart. 
The back and front panels of the skirt are cut. The pattern itself is cut out along the contour and that’s it, you can start making the skirt.
If you plan to further model the skirt, some auxiliary lines can be left.
Straight skirt pattern for plus size people.
Many sewing enthusiasts are interested in information on how to create a straight skirt pattern for a full female figure. Nothing, I repeat once again, nothing, constructing a pattern for a straight skirt for a full figure does not differ from constructing a pattern for an incomplete figure, if the difference between the half-volumes (Sb-St) of the hips and waist for this figure does not exceed 14.5 cm. Once again, nothing!
Many overweight women have a perfectly proportional figure, with fat deposits evenly distributed throughout the body.
And at the same time, other “skinny women” have a figure with a difference in half-volumes of 16 - 19 centimeters or more.
If the sum of the dart openings exceeds 14.5 cm, then to better fit the skirt on the figure, 2 rear darts should be built.
To construct a drawing of a straight skirt with two darts at the back, let’s take the dimensional characteristics of size 50 (height 164 cm, but size 3).
St - 41.1 cm
Sat - 56 cm.
The difference between the volumes is 15.9 cm.
Lateral 0.4 x ∑B = 6.36 cm (½ solution = 3.18 cm)
Front 0.15 x ∑H = 2.4 cm (½ opening = 1.2 cm)
Rear 0.45 x ∑V. The standard opening width of 4 cm (½ opening = 2.0 cm) will be used for the main tuck, and for the additional remainder 0.45 x ∑B - 4 = 7.2 cm - 4 cm = 3.2 cm (½ opening = 1.6 cm).
According to all the rules (see above in the article), the most common drawing of a straight skirt is constructed. The solutions for the side, back and front darts are made according to the calculations laid out above in the article.
Then: 1) the area between the right side of the back dart and the left side of the side dart is divided in half and the most common dart is built (see above in the article): 2) an auxiliary dart solution is laid from the point on the line upward to the right, 3) the right side of the dart is built, 4) and then the left one.
When sewing a skirt cut using a pattern with two back darts, the side seam allowance should be made at least 2 cm wide, since adjustments to the side seam line may be necessary.
The pattern for a skirt with two back darts looks like this.
If the difference in the half-volumes of the hips and waist is more than 17.5 cm, it is necessary to construct another dart. This time also from the front.
To construct a drawing of a straight skirt with four darts, let’s take the dimensional characteristics of the same size 50 (height 164 cm, but size 5).
St - 43.1 cm
Sat - 60 cm.
Increase in waist + 1cm; hips +2 cm.
The difference between the volumes is 17.9 cm.
How is the difference in volume distributed between darts in this case?
Lateral 0.4 x ∑B = 7.16 cm (½ solution = 3.58 cm)
Two back darts 0.4 x ∑H = 7.16 cm, opening of one dart 3.58 cm (½ opening = 1.79 cm).
Two front darts 0.2 x ∑H = 3.58 cm, opening of one dart 1.79 cm (½ opening = 0.9 cm).
The drawing of a straight skirt with four darts is constructed in exactly the same way as the drawing of a straight skirt with two back and front darts described above in the article. Then additional darts are built between the main and side cuts.
Additional darts can be the same length and width of the solution as the main ones. Or they can be smaller (according to the model, according to the figure, at will). The main darts can be shifted closer to the lines of the middle front and back (according to the model, according to the figure, if desired).
Straight skirt with vent pattern.
Patterning a straight skirt with a vent begins with constructing a straight skirt pattern. For information on how to build one, see the article above. The slot is “attached” to the skirt as the last of all its parts. You can read everything about the slot in the article “
All! Good luck to all! Sincerely, Milla Sidelnikova!
