Raglan sleeves are back in fashion, and if you don’t already have a dress or blouse with such a sleeve in your wardrobe, with the help of our tutorial, you have a great opportunity to sew them. Modeling a raglan sleeve pattern is very simple; besides, a sleeve of this design, unlike a classic sleeve, is very easy to sew into the armhole. And even with little experience in sewing, you are guaranteed to cope with its processing.
If you decide to sew a product with raglan sleeves, first you need to build or blouses according to your own measurements. By the way, using this technique you can model a raglan sleeve not only for a dress or blouse, but also for a jacket or coat.
Then you should transfer onto tracing paper the front part of the dress separately, and the back of the dress separately. The sleeve should be re-shot onto tracing paper as a whole, and then to model the raglan sleeve pattern, the sleeve pattern should be cut in half vertically so that the cut runs exactly in the center of the sleeve from the highest point of the sleeve cap to the bottom of the sleeve.
There is a product on the front half of the dress (side dart).
Modeling a raglan sleeve pattern
1. Place the front half of the sleeve over the front half of the dress, leaving a distance of 1.5 cm between the extreme point of the shoulder and the high point of the sleeve cap (Fig. 1). In this case, the sleeve should be at a slight angle, which you can vary yourself, depending on the chosen dress model. At the intersection of the lower sections of the collar and the armhole, point R was obtained.
IMPORTANT! The greater the slope of the sleeve, the more convex the shoulder cap is, however, the angle of the sleeve in relation to the front half of the dress should not be too large.
2. Divide the neckline of the front of the product in half. From the resulting point, draw 2 smooth lines: one to the armhole (RB), the second to the sleeve (RB1) (see Fig. 1). In the upper part of the front the lines repeat the shape of each other, towards the bottom they diverge. Raise the shoulder seam at the extreme point of the shoulder by 0.5 cm and draw a smooth upper line of the shoulder and sleeve.
Rice. 1. Modeling the front pattern of a product with raglan sleeves
Model the raglan sleeve for the back of the product in the same way. Transfer the pattern of the front and back halves of the product and the front and back halves of the raglan sleeve onto tracing paper along the modeling lines.
Rice. 2. Modeling the pattern of the back of a product with raglan sleeves
Note: The neckline of the product, as well as the width of the raglan sleeves, can be changed according to the style if necessary. We invite you to explore other modeling techniques in the section
Details of the cut of the product are shown in Fig. 3. All patterns are given without allowances for seams and hems. When cutting, be sure to add 1-1.5 cm to the seams and 3-4 cm to the hem of the sleeves and the hem of the product at the bottom.
Rice. 3. Pattern for a dress with raglan sleeves - cut details
Raglan sleeve pattern with transfer of chest dart to waist dart
The second option for modeling a raglan sleeve is with the transfer of the chest dart into the waist dart. To do this, transfer part of the depth of the chest dart to the armhole - 1.5 cm and the remaining part to the waist dart (Fig. 4). Add the missing length to the sleeve along the armhole, drawing the radius AB.
Rice. 4. Modeling a raglan sleeve with a waist dart - front
Model the back as shown in Fig. 5. Draw a horizontal dotted line in the center of the armhole, cut the back along the marked line and cut. Spread the back along the armhole by 1.5 cm, then continue modeling the back in the same way as the shelf.
Rice. 5. Modeling raglan sleeves - back
Details of the cut of the product with raglan sleeves are shown in Fig. 6.
Rice. 6. Details of the cut of the product with raglan sleeves
You will find even more creative modeling ideas, ready-made patterns and master classes on the website of the Anastasia Korfiati Sewing School. Subscribe for free and be the first to receive our new lessons!
There is a funny paradox in knitting: despite the fact that there is a pattern for raglan sleeves for knitted items, the question of how to cut raglan for a knitted pullover or jacket is irrelevant, because, of course, sleeves for knitted sweaters are not cut out of fabric, but knitted on knitting needles or crochet By the way, you can download both patterns and diagrams on many sites easily and completely free of charge, no question. The question is what to do with these patterns after this if you are a beginner knitter and have not yet held knitting needles in your hands. What if you are a seamstress and want to learn how to make raglan patterns yourself, rather than scour the Internet looking for suitable ones? How do you know who suits such a sleeve? If it doesn’t suit you, can the raglan be converted into a regular one? And how to gradate raglan sleeves by size? Let's figure it out.
Raglan is a special type of sleeve. It is one with the shoulder. The absence of an armhole makes the garment as comfortable as possible. That is why such tailoring is most often used in the manufacture of sportswear. In addition, blouses and dresses, sweaters and jackets with such sleeves look more elegant and beautiful.
Raglan is a special type of sleeve
Depending on where exactly the armhole line is drawn, the types of raglans can be as follows:
- typical - the line is drawn literally one and a half centimeters below the top point of the neck and smoothly falls down;
- zero – a line is drawn from the top point of the front neckline to the top mark of the back neckline, smoothly descends from the top point down;
- semi-raglan - the passage of the line is marked from the center of the shoulder. In the shoulder area there is a small gap between the armhole and the neckline;
- raglan shoulder strap - the line runs parallel to the shoulder, there is a smooth transition into the armhole of the set-in sleeve;
- fantasy - the bottom line is no different from a set-in sleeve, while the top line can be arbitrary.
The types of raglans, depending on the shape of the sleeve, can be as follows:
- vertical;
- soft.
Sleeves are also divided according to the number of seams. Raglan can be:
- single-suture;
- two-seam;
- three-seam.
Raglan sleeve pattern with construction from the base (video)
Constructing a raglan pattern for beginners
Even a beginner can make a pattern. Although this process cannot be called easy, following the instructions it is still possible to complete it. The main thing is to strictly follow the sequence of actions and be as attentive as possible.
Even a beginner can make a pattern
How to cut:
- From the pattern of the front and back, copy the shoulders along the line, then close the chest dart of the front. This way you get a complete shoulder piece.
- Transfer the main points to the single-seam sleeve patterns.
- Place a centimeter from point C along the SF line and mark point L.
- Attach the piece cut from the back to the main part of the sleeve and combine points L1M with points CH.
- Set aside one centimeter from point G to the right and mark G2. Draw a line from G2 to L1.
- To the left of mark M, set aside one and a half centimeters and place point M2
- Connect marks G1, M2 and F with a smooth line, resulting in a rollback line.
- Now take the part cut off from the front part, step back one centimeter along the line SF1 and connect points L2 and M1 with marks C2 and M1.
- To the right side of mark G along line GG4, set aside just a centimeter and put point G3, connect it to L2.
- To the right of M1, set aside a centimeter and mark M2. Draw segments G4, M3 and F1, as a result of which you get another rollback line.
Semi-raglan: building a pattern
To tailor a semi-raglan, you will need a minimum of time and knowledge. Step-by-step instructions will help even a beginner cope with this task.
How to cut correctly:
- On the pattern of the base of the front part, close the dart on the chest, distribute the depth.
- Cut the single-seam sleeve into two equal parts and lower the perpendicular from the highest point of the rollback to the bottom of the sleeve.
- Combine the front part of the sleeve with half of the finished front pattern.
- Draw an arc AB and slightly round the line of the shoulder, raising it half a centimeter.
- Cut the back horizontally and spread it one and a half centimeters apart, straightening the middle line.
Cut half raglan pieces from the shoulder seam.
Raglan based on set-in sleeves
You can cut out and sew a raglan based on a set-in sleeve simply and quickly.
This cutting method is used most often, as it comes down to just a few steps:
- Transfer the bases of the back and front onto paper.
- Transfer the top dart to the neckline.
- Close and fasten all darts.
- Now place the pattern on the figure and mark the line of the future yoke on it, draw the initial marks of the raglan.
- Place the back and front side by side, leveling with the lower parts of the armhole.
- Make notches at one level 1.
- On both parts, draw vertical segments to the armhole lines and mark the touching points with notch 2.
- Step back three centimeters from the notches and mark point 3 along the yoke line.
- Transfer the yokes to another sheet, making sure to mark all the notches and closing the back dart on the shoulder.
- Transferring the drawings of the main parts onto the fabric, additionally draw a yoke.
- Cut off the yoke after fitting.
- Replace the sleeve fit along the rollback line with a tuck.
- Transfer the raglan base onto paper, leaving the space necessary to build the yoke.
- In the upper part, between marks B, mark the tuck solution.
- Place notch A ten centimeters below the middle of the rollback and draw a concave line.
- Extend the dart lines.
- Fold the paper lengthwise and compare both darts.
- Place the back yoke with the armhole at mark C and rotate until its mark 2 comes into contact with the rollback.
- In this position, circle the yoke.
- Perform the same manipulation with the front yoke.
- Using smooth lines, connect notches 3 with the rollback.
- Measure the distance from notch 3 to notch 1 and measure it from mark 3 along the curved line that was just drawn and place notch 4.
- On the bodice, measure the length of the armhole.
- Also measure the rollback line on the sleeve, starting from the cuts along the burs and reaching point 4. Compare the data.
You can cut out and sew a raglan based on a set-in sleeve quickly and easily
Distribute all excess between the sections drawn by the dotted line.
Raglan knitting needles
A knitted raglan looks no less impressive than one made from knitwear. The process of knitting is different from sewing in many ways. Using knitting needles, making a sleeve is much easier, since there is no need for patterns, you just need to make all the calculations.
- Cast on the required number of loops and knit the first nine lines using the following pattern: chain stitch, knit, yarn over, purl, six right sleeve loops, yarn over, purl, yarn over, sixteen back stitches, yarn over, purl, yarn over, six sleeve loops, yarn over, purl , yarn over, front stitch and chain stitch.
- In the purl rows, perform air stitches with edge stitches, and purl the rest.
- On the eleventh line, add a pair of air stitches on both sides and complete the work.
- Continue working in the round, knitting the main stitches and purling the raglan lines. Knit yarn overs with knit stitches.
- When all the stitches are cast on, you need to remove them with a pin and leave them at work.
- Combine the main parts and continue knitting.
A raglan knitted with knitting needles looks no less impressive than one made from knitwear.
Finally, complete the pattern with an elastic band and bind off all the loops.
In what styles of clothing is raglan used?
Despite its practicality and convenience, raglan cannot be used in all styles of clothing.
Most often they resort to its use in the following of them:
- unisex. In most cases, raglan is cut from the neckline;
- ethnic. Thanks to the peculiarities of the cut, it is possible to achieve a special softness of all lines;
- minimalism;
- eclecticism. Style already initially implies borrowing details from various directions. Raglan is also appropriate in this case;
- futurism. Characterized by a complex cut and the use of bright, shiny materials;
- romantic. The use of raglan in this case is also possible, but creating a harmonious image will require a lot of effort.
Modeling a raglan sleeve based on a sewn one (video)
Raglan is an unusual sleeve model. With its help, it is possible to hide overly broad shoulders and make clothes as comfortable as possible. Even the simplest things made in this style take on a very unusual and original look.
No wonder they say that everything new is well forgotten old. This statement is especially suitable for such a capricious “lady” as fashion. Suddenly something that seemed outdated long ago becomes fashionable. But designers introduce something new, and the thing becomes the last squeak. The raglan dress is back in fashion.
Which fabric is better to choose
It is no secret that many representatives of the fair sex are very fond of fabrics such as knitwear and the like, so that they are elastic and softly envelop the body. Firstly, it looks very feminine, and secondly, things made from such materials are also very versatile from the point of view of women who have any figure flaws. Knitted dresses are very slimming, comfortable and cozy. Also, knitted fabric is very practical to wear. It doesn’t wrinkle and washes easily, which is also very important for any woman. And another undeniable advantage of knitwear and fabrics identical to it is its versatility. Knitted clothing can be used for all occasions. For both everyday wear and special occasions. In addition, this can be an office option. It’s enough to add a suitable accessory to this or that look, and that’s it, you’ll look just great! A raglan dress made of jersey is the best solution; the thing will be elegant and at the same time practical. After all, the raglan sleeve itself is very comfortable. It is free and does not restrict movement. And besides, it is also warming, which is very useful for Russian beauties in cool weather.
We sew ourselves
For all needlewomen who like to create their own outfits, it is worth noting right away that a raglan dress is simply sewn, because it does not have any complex details. And even a novice craftswoman can easily cope with sewing. For example, you should sew a sleeve only along slightly curved lines, and not along circular ones. Yes, and bending the sections will be quite easy.
To start sewing a dress with raglan sleeves, you need to download the pattern from our website, it is located at the end of the page, print the diagram and glue it according to the diagram and cut out the desired size. Please note that before cutting this pattern, you must know your own measurements, that is, take a centimeter and carefully measure your figure. Next, compare your own measurements with the dimensions of the pattern. Change the parameters if necessary, and only then can you cut out the patterns, taking into account all the changes. In places where clarification may be required, allow allowances a little larger than usual when cutting. We must not forget that patterns are usually designed for a standard figure, so it would be useful to check it on a model, try it on, and adjust it again. Calculate the cut details. Well, after that, don’t be afraid, get to work!
Sewing
So, you will need to overcast and iron the seams after stitching, then be sure to process the darts in front of the bodice, put a mark at the bottom of the front of the fold, stitch and iron. After this, connect the top and bottom of the front, stitch the darts and middle seam on the back to the mark. Sew in a fastener (usually a zipper), stitch the side sections, upper and lower sleeve sections. Then assemble the sleeve sections (lower) in parallel, the gathers should be uniform. The cuff cross sections need to be stitched into a ring and sewn to the lower sleeve sections. Now you can sew the sleeves of the dress into the armholes. Finish the neckline with facings and hem the bottom of the dress.
That's it, your masterpiece is ready! Wear it with pleasure, and don't forget to complement it with suitable additions and accessories.
Raglan sleeves are widely used in everyday wear. It creates a soft, rounded shoulder line and visually reduces their width.
A raglan sleeve can be made by construction or by modeling. Raglan sleeve construction is labor-intensive and requires calculations, but gives a good balance of the product on the figure.
In today's article we will look at the method of designing a raglan pattern by modeling. This method is simpler and faster, but it requires well-established backrest, front and sleeve basics.
2. On the back, move the dart to the convexity of the shoulder blades towards the armhole (in our example, the tuck opening is 1.5 cm).
3. On the front, move the chest dart into the waist dart. Lengthen the armhole using a waist dart by an amount equal to the lengthening of the armhole along the back (1.5 cm).
4. Deepen the back and front armholes by 3.8 cm (or another value according to the model).
Create a new armhole line.
Shoulder section of the back of the raglan sleeve
4. From point A along the armhole, set aside half of the segment AB minus the dart opening (1.5 cm). Point X obtained.
5. Measure 3.2 cm from the top of the neckline and draw an auxiliary line to X.
Divide the resulting segment in half and restore a perpendicular 1 cm long.
6. Draw a line for the armhole/piping of the raglan sleeve as shown in Fig. 2.
Shoulder section of the front part of the raglan sleeve
7. From C along the armhole, set aside half of the segment CD minus the dart opening (1.5 cm). Point X obtained.
9. Cut off the shoulder sections of the raglan sleeve pieces and save.
Changing the sleeve cut
2. Extend the line of the middle of the sleeve upward from the hem by 0.6 cm. Draw a horizontal line through this point.
3. Set aside 0.6 cm outward from K at the elbow line and draw a new line for the front cut of the sleeve.
4. Set aside 3.8 cm along the longitudinal sections of the sleeve - points E and F and draw the lower sections of the new edging line.
5. Set aside for the okata:
- distance EX equal to segment AX on the back armhole;
- distance FX is equal to segment CX at the front armhole.
6. Reduce the opening of the elbow dart by 0.6 cm. Set aside 0.6 cm upward from G (compensation for the reduction in the dart opening) and draw a new bottom line to point H. The remainder of the dart solution is drawn up in the form of a fit, mark the landing position with control signs, as shown in Fig. 4.
Designing a raglan pattern
1. Attach the upper sections of the sleeve parts to the sleeve cap so that the X points are aligned, and the points B and D on the shoulder sections are located on the horizontal guide. Lock it in.
2. Mark the Z point on the horizontal guide midway between B and D (may not coincide with the middle).
3. Mark point Y at a distance of 1.6 cm from the middle of the sleeve along the bottom and draw a straight line from Z to Y (Fig. 5).
4. Draw curved cutting lines from E and F to point Z (Fig. 6).
5. Cut the raglan sleeve along the lines ZУ, EZ and FZ.
6. Place the cut patterns on a sheet of paper and spread their parts by 5 cm to lengthen the sleeve parts along the lower sections. Fix and circle (Fig. 7).
7. Create new cuts from the elbow to E and F.
8. Set aside from B and D:
- outward 0.6 cm;
- along the lines of the upper cuts 7.6 cm down.
Draw the lines of the upper cuts through the obtained points, as shown in Fig. 8. Place control marks (notches).
9. Indicate the direction of the warp threads on the bodice patterns and parts of the raglan sleeves (Fig. 9).
The raglan pattern is ready.
Dress for young fashionistas with an original cut. In front there is an undercut under the bust, from under which pleats emerge, secured with stitching to the waistline. Raglan sleeves, widened at the bottom, gathered at cuffs.
This pattern can be used in many ways: for sewing an elegant, evening, cocktail dress, and with skillful selection of material using the same pattern, you can sew a dress in which you can attend classes at school or university, go shopping or take an evening stroll in the city. You can easily adjust the length of the dress and sleeve length according to your own wishes.
Soft fabrics are suitable for sewing this dress model, for example, crepe, chiffon, thin wool, light linen, thin elastic knitwear, etc.
The pattern is given with seam allowances of 1.5 cm, unless otherwise indicated on the patterns.
Bust 78 81 84 cm
Waist circumference 60 63 66 cm
Hip circumference 84 87 90 cm
After receiving the pattern, print the sheets, glue them according to the diagram and cut them to the desired size.
A few important notes:
1. Check the scale - the sides of the square on the first sheet of the pattern should be exactly 10 cm.
2. Before cutting out the pattern, take a centimeter and carefully take measurements from your figure or from the figure of your client for whom you are going to sew a dress. Compare the result obtained with the pattern parameters, adjust if necessary, and only then cut out the patterns, taking into account the amendments.
3. When cutting in those places where clarification is possible after fitting, allow allowances slightly larger than usual.
Please note that the patterns are designed for a conventionally typical figure, so the best option is to check it on a mock-up fabric, and after trying on and adjusting, you can safely start working with the “finish version”.
Dress cut details
- Upper part of the front of the dress 1 piece
- Bottom front of dress 1 piece
- Dress front neck facing 1 piece
- Back neck facing 2 parts
- Dress back 2 details
- Front sleeve 2 parts
- Elbow (back) part of the sleeve 2 parts
- Sleeve cuff 2 parts
Sewing a dress
- After stitching, sweep and iron all seams.
- Finish the darts on the front of the bodice.
- On the lower part of the front, place folds according to the marks, stitch and iron.
- Connect the upper and lower parts of the front.
- Sew darts on the back of the dress.
- Sew the center back seam to the mark.
- Sew in the zipper.
- Stitch the side seams.
- Stitch the upper and lower edges of the sleeves.
- Gather the lower sections of the sleeves into two parallel lines, evenly distributing the gathers.
- Sew the cross sections of the cuffs into a ring.
- Sew the cuffs to the bottom edges of the sleeves.
- Sew sleeves into armholes.
- Duplicate the facings with an adhesive pad.
- Finish the neck of the dress with facings
- Hem the bottom of the dress.
You can complement the dress with a belt made of the main fabric.
