Everyone comes to beading for different reasons. Some people want to create unique jewelry for themselves and stand out among their friends in a spectacular way. appearance. Others want to earn a little extra money, and still others, falling into childhood, make toys :) It is for such “masters” that our material will be most interesting.
In fact, this is a very impressive decoration in the house. They can be used as a keychain, car pendant, or a nice souvenir trinket. Wicker bright toys move as if alive, slide between your fingers, strive to run away, crawl away, fly away. Endowed with the energy of a person who creates his own little world, they come to life in the hands of a child who is able to animate almost any object he comes across.
Bears and giraffes, scorpions and hares, fish, swans and many other animals can be propagated using ordinary beads and wire. Although the year of the dragon is already over, many crafters like this mythical creature, and they often try to recreate it using different materials and technician. Not without success, by the way.
It is thanks to such creative searches that a dozen ways to make a dragon from beads have already been collected. Some of them definitely deserve our attention. Shall we get started?
Dragon made of beads - diagram, selection of material, creative spirit
If this is your first time taking on this or that job, don’t rush your horses. It's better to rock hard than to end up very disappointed. Weaving a dragon from beads can be a pleasant pastime, or it can discourage you from such an activity forever. Prepare and study the diagram in detail, select the necessary material and, having planned the upcoming process, begin. Using wire will help you maintain a more rigid shape and then create different poses. But sometimes it’s easier to start with fishing line. This depends on the specific case and the skills of the “worker”. We will make a dragon out of beads, whose wings are woven on a separate wire and attached to the body. A very beautiful, sprawling little dragon.
By the way, some bead toys (including our dragon) can be stuffed. The same as rag ones, but instead of foam rubber (or other similar materials) you can even take plastic bags. A densely stuffed animal is not afraid of the close embrace of children, who strive to turn the voluminous structure into a dense lump.
Let's get down to business - because the dragon needs a body
Actually, below is a separate diagram for the body of a pocket monster. Weaving a dragon from beads is a matter of skill. In our case, we start from the nose and gradually move to the tip of the tail. We make the legs separately.
We pay special attention to the wings. This is what our beaded dragon is so proud of. The weaving pattern of the upper limbs is very detailed. First we build a skeleton, which we then gradually fill in. To have fewer ends that need to be hidden, we do it all on one wire, and not on separate ones.
This dragon can be made in any combination of colors. Choose two shades of the same color, similar tones, or, conversely, contrasting colors. Yellow-green, blue-blue and even red-black - they all turn out interesting in their own way. On the Internet there are other options for making the “dragon made of beads” figure. A master class on such needlework will help you create the desired object with minimal effort and nerves.
And here is another Chinese barbel, with a mane decorated with crystals. Thin, true, but very impressive.
This one got ready for the holiday. How elegant, just look! The hippie dragon is peaceful and has flowered paws.
And this cutie looks something like a winged ant. But even a child can make a dragon of this kind from beads. By the way, beadwork can be very useful. Fine motor skills, after all.
Practical dragons - decorations
If you are not into toys, then you have probably wondered how to weave a dragon from beads, the use of which could be found on your own body. There are some! True, no schemes have yet been found, but it’s a matter of time. As the famous proverb says - whoever seeks...
So, dragon bracelet
Beautiful things are not for every day, you must agree. They are definitely for the brave girls. Small dragons can be worn as earrings or pendants.
A little about symbols
If you were born in the year of the fire-breathing winged lizard, then you are an honest and emotional person, a little irritable, but trusting and generous. Dragon people are usually soft-hearted and at the same time determined. Proud and enthusiastic, they achieve success in almost any endeavor, are often the subject of the heart’s passions, and less often they suffer themselves.
In Eastern culture, this creature is loved and revered. It symbolizes life itself. In contrast to the Slavic serpent Gorynych, the dragon is a positive character. By the way, the most ancient Chinese and Japanese dragons did not have wings. The modern world-famous appearance of the legendary animal is a kind of fusion of different cultures.
In this master class I will show you how to make a beaded dragon with your own hands. This dragon looks very attractive, and it is not difficult to create - you just need to decide what color your dragon will be and stick to the pattern during the weaving process.
I wove my dragon in red and gold. To weave it you will need:
- Czech seed beads No. 10 in three colors – red, gold and black.
- Wire with a diameter of 0.3 mm.
There are many options for weaving dragons from beads, but I offer the easiest one so that not only an experienced craftswoman, but also a beginner, as well as children, can weave a dragon.
Below is the basic pattern for weaving a dragon from beads.
Body weaving pattern
- Row 1: 1 red bead.
- Row 2: 2 cr.
- Row 3: 3 cr.
- Row 4: 1 red, 1 black, 1 red, 1 black, and 1 red.
- Row 5: 5 cr.
- Rows 6, 7 and 8: 3 cr each.
- Row 9: 4 rows.
- Front paws: 4 red, 3 gold per paw.
- Row 10: 4 cr.
- Row 11: 5 cr.
- Row 12: 6 cr.
- Row 13: 5 cr.
- Row 14: 4 cr.
- Hind legs: 4 red, 3 gold each.
- Row 15: 4 cr.
- Rows 16 and 17: 3 cr each.
- Rows 18, 19 and 20: 2 cr each.
- Row 21 and 22: 1 cr each.
Decoding of the scheme: kr is a red bead, zl is a gold bead.
Take a piece of wire 52 cm long and string 3 red beads onto it. Having placed them in the middle and holding one bead, we pass the end of the wire in the opposite direction through 2 beads (as if forming a loop) and tighten it well.
In the fourth row we add black beads - these are the dragon's eyes.
After the ninth row we make the front legs of the dragon. First, string 4 red and 3 gold beads onto one end of the wire. We hold the gold beads and pass the wire in the opposite direction through the tap beads. We move everything close to the dragon’s body and pull the wire to the end.
We do the same on the other side of the dragon’s body.
And again we continue to weave according to the described pattern.
After the fifteenth row, we make the hind legs on both sides in the same way as the first ones.
When we have finished weaving, we fix the ends of the wires on the sides, thread them between the rows, and cut off the excess.
Beaded dragon wings
We weave the wings, like the body, in parallel weaving according to the following pattern:
- Row 1: 1 cr.
- Row 2: 1 red, 1 gold.
- Row 3: 1 cr., 2 zloty.
- Row 4: 1 cr., 3 zloty.
- Row 5: 1 cr., 2 zloty.
- Row 6: 1 cr., 4 zlotys.
- Row 7: 1 cr., 3 zloty.
- Row 8: 1 cr., 2 zloty.
- Row 9: 1 cr.
You need to make 2 wings.
Assembly
Now the wings need to be attached to the body. You need to take one wing and pass its wires between 9–10 and 10–11 rows. Then cross them and thread them lengthwise between the rows. We cut off the remaining wire.
We attach the second wing on the other side in exactly the same way.
Note! The wings should be positioned with gold beads towards the side of the tail.
We adjust the paws as in the photo - the front ones up, the back ones down. We raise the wings. The dragon is made from beads!
This cute little beaded dragon can be used as a keychain.
Video of a beaded dragon product made
The first part of the diagram (head and neck)
Weaving starts from left (according to the pattern) to right - from the head - to the tail.
To work you will need beads of two colors: green (I took “light”) and
something in addition to it, maybe as a contrast (I took green
"gasoline" color, which changes color depending on
illumination).
Two black beads for eyes.
Wire of two sizes: thinner - for the main weaving - a piece 2 m 80 cm long, four pieces of 30 cm each (for paws);
thicker (we'll talk about this later) for the wing frame 20cm.
Depending on the wing option you choose, you may need additional materials (see below).
The second part of the diagram (torso)
The third part of the circuit (tail)
Let's start with the muzzle.
Since the work is performed according to the basic rules of parallel volumetric weaving, then I won’t talk about common truths.
I will only dwell on those places where difficulties are possible.
So, you can weave the beginning of the head quite easily. Don’t forget to make eyes in the 10th row (we count both the bottom and top ones).
In this photo, the work was completed up to the 11th row (it is the bottom).
In the 12th row you need to make a couple of horns.
To begin, string 7 beads (2 main colors and 5 additional colors) onto one of the wires.
Having passed the outermost bead, pass the wire through the remaining 4
beads of an additional color towards the initial stroke of the wire.
Tighten it by first moving the beads as close to the beginning of the row as possible.
Let's repeat the same on the other side.
To complete the 12th row, add two beads.
Add another bead to the left wire and pass through these with the tip
through two beads of the main color (they started the row when making
horn).
Let's repeat the same on the right.
The photo shows the 12th row before tightening the wire.
This is what our horns look like (i.e. dragon horns :))))))
In the 12th row (bottom) we will add 2 beads of the main - 1 additional - 2 primary colors.
Row 14 is interesting because you need to make a “collar” in it.
There are several ways here. The first is to do everything on one wire.
(for example, its left tip), and then the second one go through the beads
grounds. This path is simple.
But I chose another: dividing the petals of the “collar” equally between
wires. This path is more difficult, but thanks to it, the tips remaining in
work will have the same length and, therefore, it will be more convenient to use them
work.
We collect 7 beads on one of the ends (on the right in the photo)
main color. Let's skip the outermost bead and pass the wire through
the second (towards the initial move).
If you decide to use the method of sequential selection of petals, then in this step, select not 7 beads, but only 5.
Moving the bead to the beginning (here you can’t be too zealous, because
some slack between the beads will make our work easier in the future),
tighten the wire (we performed the same step when making the horns).
Add 2 beads of the main color.
Next, be CAREFUL:
let's pass the wire with stringed beads through the third (from the beginning)
bead in the SAME DIRECTION that the wire went at the very BEGINNING. On
words are not very clear, look at the following picture.
For the method of sequential set of petals: we pass the wire through the very FIRST bead.
The course of the wire in the petal of the “collar”. The drawing is rotated for ease of reading
The wire is divided into two colors for ease of understanding.
The petal should look like this after tightening the wire.
The diagram shows the order in which we will perform the petals (if
You chose my path - dividing the petals equally between the wires).
When working using the sequential method, the order of the set of petals will be (counting from right to left): 1 - 2 - 3 - 4.
Then we will string 8 more beads of the main color to make the second petal and make the tip as we did before.
For a sequential set, string only 6 beads.
The tip after tightening the wire.
String 2 more beads and again pass the wire in the same direction
through one (the fourth from the base of the previous petal) bead.
When casting sequentially, you should pass through the 3rd bead from the base of the previous petal.
Now two petals are ready (the first and third - in order, not in the order of manufacture).
Now you need to pass the second (free) tip of the working wire
after 3 beads, counting from the base of the outermost petal.
For sequential dialing, at this step we continue to dial the third
and then the fourth petals, proceeding similarly to the previous steps.
On the left is the tip of the wire on which we made the first two petals, and on the right is the one that was not previously used.
Now we will perform the second (in the “collar”) petal.
String 4 beads. Let's make the tip of the petal (I won't go into detail, because we have already repeated this step twice).
Let's string two more beads and pass the wire through 5 beads
base (you may have to use a needle to do this
and tweezers). This is where loosely tightening the beads in the rows comes in handy
We completed three of the four petals of the “collar”.
The first layer of “collar” is ready (view from back side) of four petals
In the 16th row, the second layer of the “collar” of two petals is made.
We string 6 beads of the main color onto the right wire and make the tip
petal (skipping the first bead!!!). Then we string 2 beads and
Let's finish making the petal by passing through the second bead.
Thanks to Vladislava Korshunova, who noticed the inaccuracy present in the earlier version of the description :)
The right petal of the second layer of the “collar” (the lower layers are covered with a “mask”)
Let's repeat the same manipulation with the left wire and get two petals.
Again, it was possible to make both petals on one wire, but I went with the symmetry method...
We collect an additional bead between the petals.
Now let's pass the wire through the two (left and right) beads of the base.
After tightening, the 16th row looks like this.
View of the “collar” with the “mask” removed.
This is what our dragon's head looks like
Starting from the 17th row, the neck is performed (with volumetric parallel weaving). Up to row 26 everything is extremely simple.
Before dialing the 27th row, you should take into account what will pass through it
wing frame wire (remember, in the materials required for the work,
mentioned a piece of wire 20cm long?) and selection is required here
beads
Find a wire that will hold its shape without being too
thick, because it must pass through the beads with a margin (except for it there
We will push two more ends of the working wire!).
Take a piece of wire, attach a piece of wire to it
(similar to that used for the main weave), folded
in half. Now select the beads so that these pieces are
the wires passed through them (even if under tension).
For the 27th row you need to select 4 beads of the main and 1 additional color.
String the selected beads onto the working wire, but do not tighten yet.
From a piece of wire 20cm long, cut 15cm and bend it on one side
future wing (do not try to give the workpiece its final shape yet,
because her turn will not come soon).
Insert the wing frame into the bottom row of beads and tighten the wire.
On the other side, we bend the profile of the future wing (try to do everything symmetrically).
In the 28th row everything is simple (7 beads of the main color).
Through the 29th row you should draw a piece of wire (30cm) for the front paws.
The ridge begins from the 30th row.
We collect 5 beads of the main and 2 additional colors and on two
(last) beads perform an action similar to the tip
collar petal.
We collect 5 more beads of the main color...
We pass the second tip of the wire towards the first.
We tighten it. We got the 30th row with a scallop.
(In the 33rd row, do not forget to wire the paws).
Up to row 34 everything is simple.
In the 34th row, the ridge is performed using a slightly different technology.
First half (making a comb like the tip of a “collar” petal)
similar to the previous steps, but there are differences when completing the row.
This means we performed the scallop as we did earlier, and then dial on
wire beads of the main color (see the quantity in the diagram).
Then we stretch the second tip of the working wire towards the first, but
not immediately through all the beads of the bottom row, but only through half
(strictly to the ridge).
Then we’ll hook another bead onto the same working wire and only then pass it through the remaining beads (after the comb).
As a result of this step, another bead will appear UNDER the comb.
34th row.
An additional bead is visible under the comb.
We fix the wire.
Having passed one of the ends through the second row, I twisted the remaining ones (they
now on one side) twist the ponytails and cut off the excess.
Twist after circumcision.
Front paw diagram
Hind paw
Making the base of the paw is not difficult (volume parallel weaving).
The fingers are performed in a similar manner to the horns or the tip of the “collar” petal.
I did not do as the diagram suggests (all fingers are on one
wire), but made symmetrically a pair of fingers on each wire.
To secure the wire remaining after performing the fingers, I passed
tips through two beads of the last row towards each other...
Fastening the wire
Then I secured the wire using my favorite method :)
We will make the hind legs similarly to the front ones (only they have three fingers instead of four).
Here she is, our Girl - Dragon :)
Darling?
(while the wings are not finished yet)
Wing frame before being covered with film
Ready-made Drakosha (so far only with a wing frame)
As you can see, rows with a large number of beads require fastening (stitching) to each other.
But whether you do it or not depends on you.
Baby dragon belly before firmware
Drakosha after flashing (close-up view from the back)
I started stitching on the back from the 26th row and finished in the 62nd.
On the tummy: beginning - 29th, ending - 61st.
(the firmware is done with fishing line).
Carefully press the wire wing to the sheet and outline the upper contour of the future wing
I will offer you several options for making wings. Which one is you
accept will depend on your abilities, available materials and
desires.
You can suggest yours, I will be happy to post it on these pages.
The first option (the second starts similarly).
Give the wing frame the desired curve.
On a sheet of paper we will outline the outline of the future wing (to complete the template).
Using this template, bend the second wing.
Let's outline the outline of the lower part of the wing.
Let's draw the ribs.
From the remnants of the wire intended for the wing frame, we bend two ribs in the shape of the letter “L”.
OPTION 1
On a small piece of film (it is better to take a thin plastic film),
using a pencil template, draw an outline with black stained glass paint
(strictly along the contour drawn earlier).
I took “Stained Glass” paints to work on glass from the “Luch” plant (Yaroslavl).
OPTION 1
Let the outline dry (about 30 - 50 minutes) and fill it with green stained glass paint.
Until it dries, the color appears dark.
For work, I took glass paint "Stained Glass" from the Luch plant (Yaroslavl).
OPTION 1
Immediately after applying the green paint, place a wire rib on the wing (after the paint dries, it will stick).
OPTION 1
After drying, carefully cut out the wings, leaving a black outline.
Finished cut wing (option 1)
For now, WITHOUT glue, attach the film to the frame and, if necessary, adjust the shape (the film should be on the frame wire).
Using instant glue (such as “Second” or “Moment”), apply it
a thin layer (alternately) on the INNER side of the wing frame and
Carefully, using tweezers, glue the film (if you put it askew, then
It will no longer be possible to correct anything!).
ATTENTION: instant glue contains the TOXIC component CYANACRYLATE!!!
Only work outdoors or under a hood. In no case
DO NOT INHALE glue fumes - it is very harmful to your health.
OPTION 2
Actions similar to Option 1,
BUT we draw the contour of the wing not strictly along the line, but a little FAR from it
(so that later you can trim the black outline and the wing does not become too
small).
We also applied paint and, until it dried, we placed the ribs.
After the paint has dried (after about 1 hour), very carefully cut out the outline of the wings, cutting off the black paint.
OPTION 2
We glue the film to the frame, ON THE INSIDE.
Consider the same subtleties as in Option 1.
The excess film can be carefully trimmed ONLY after the glue has completely set (after about 10 minutes).
PLEASE NOTE that instant glue practically DOES NOT STICK polyethylene! That's why we glue on the side where the PAINT IS APPLIED!
Wing from the front side (before trimming).
OPTION 2
Finished wings.
For example, in the diagram taken from Belov’s book “Figures from Beads” ( 
And 
)
the same dragon is made with some simplifications (without a “collar” and without
paws), but with beaded wings (the diagram is similar to the one above)
Here).
It is proposed to weave the wings on a separate wire between rows 14 and 20.
Left wing
The arrow indicates the place where weaving begins (the wire is conventionally divided into
two halves by color to make it easier to trace its progress in the product)
You will need about 1.5 meters of wire per wing (depending on the size of the beads).
First, let's mark the middle of the wire (the diagram shows black dot). On
on the left half we will begin to perform the leading edge, and on the right
half a wire, let's make a claw
We finish weaving the wing by twisting the tails of the wire together.
The number of beads for both wings is the same (colors are at your discretion).
In order to make a dragon from beads you need to have with you: beads, wire, bead needle, fishing line and good mood. Below you can see the diagram for the dragon, which is taken as a basis:
As we weave, we will modernize the pattern, since with the wire there may be a problem with sealing the ends of the figure. It is best to reduce the number of wire tails that still need to be hidden. We will weave dragon wings with fishing line and two needles.
So, we collect six beads on one end of the wire of blue color and place them in the middle. We pass the second end towards the first, through three beads, as shown in the bottom photo.
We continue weaving according to the pattern presented above. The odd rows of beads should become the belly of the dragon, and the even rows should become its back. For the eyes, you can buy dark or black beads and use large sizes of material. If you look at the photo, you can see the blue shiny eyes of the dragon, which makes it look aggressive.
Now we will make the dragon's ears, as shown in the diagram. To do this, we collect two beads, then one of a darker color, then again three blue beads and five darker ones. Skip the last bead and thread the wire in reverse order through the four beads. As a result, we will get a dragon's ear, which needs to be finished with a set of one dark and two blue beads.
We pass the end of the wire through two blue and one dark beads, then through three blue ones, making the second ear. To do this, we collect five dark beads, thread the wire in the reverse order through the four beads as with the first ear. Then we pass the end of the wire through the last dark bead and two blue beads.
Next, we again weave the dragon according to the pattern, rounding the rows a little so that the dragon takes shape. To make the toy more rigid, you can stuff the body with synthetic padding from the inside. Then we begin to weave the second side until we have completed all the rows. After this, you can proceed to the front legs of the dragon. We string a white bead on a piece of wire, which will become a claw, and one blue one, and thread the second part of the wire through this bead in the same way as the first time. Then you need to pick up another one of the same bead and return it with wire. Then we make another finger with a claw. After this, you can collect a white and two blue beads by passing the other part of the wire through the blue beads. At the end you need to twist the wire and continue weaving according to the pattern, making the other leg and hind legs.
To make a wing you need to prepare a frame (skeleton), which can be started from the longest bone. You need to weave fifty identical rows of beads in each row and assemble the resulting weaving with an accordion. The third bone will consist of thirty-one rows, which must be assembled in the same way as the previous rows. Now we take part of the wire from the first bone and from the third to weave a second bone of thirty-seven rows. The penultimate bone should have twenty-five rows of beads, and the last one should consist of seventeen rows of two beads.
Now we work with one end of the wire to avoid unnecessary ends. To do this, you need to put six beads on one end and pass the wire through the third and fourth beads. Then pass the wire through the first and second beads in the same direction as they were strung on the wire. Everything will turn out as if three rows are woven. The free end of the wire must be passed through the penultimate row and weaving continues according to the pattern, making nineteen rows of two beads each.
We connect the bones together to hide the extra ends of the wire and begin to design the wing. To do this, we use a needle with a fishing line, clinging to the wire on the bones, picking up the amount of beads we need, making a connection with the adjacent bone, moving to the next row. A needle is needed so that the fishing line does not sag and the wings turn out to be an even canvas.
Let's collect the received dragon parts. To do this, you need to thread the ends of the paws through the body beads and hide the fixed ends of the wire. The wings need to be attached using a diagram, collecting beads, hooking the wire onto the outer bone of the wing and the arch of the body.
For work we will need: beads, wire, fishing line, a beading needle and a good mood.
Below are all the main scheme necessary for weaving beaded dragon. I took this one as a basis, modernizing it as we weaved it. If you weave on wire, then you probably encountered the problem of sealing the ends. In his scheme I tried to reduce as much as possible the number of extra wire “tails” that need to be hidden somewhere. I hope I don't confuse you too much with this.
Place 6 blue beads on one end of the wire and place them in the middle. Let's pass the second end of the wire towards the first through 3 beads, as in the photo below. We continue weaving according to the pattern. The odd rows will become the belly of the dragon, and the even rows will become the back. For the eyes you can take black or dark beads, you can use larger size beads. I made my little dragon these shiny blue eyes, because with black ones he turned out to be very angry.
According to scheme let's do the ears. We work at one end wire. Let's collect 2 blue beads, 1 darker bead (for me these are transparent blue beads), again 3 blue beads, 5 darker beads. Having passed the last collected bead, we pass the wire in the opposite direction through 4 beads. It turns out to be an ear. Let's collect one more darker bead and 2 blue beads.
Now we will pass the second end of the wire through 2 blue beads, 1 transparent, 3 blue and make a second eye: collect 5 transparent beads and pass the wire in the opposite direction through 4 beads, just like with the first eye. Then we pass the end of the wire through the remaining 1 transparent and 2 blue beads of the row. This is such a difficult series.
Next, we continue weaving according to the pattern, rounding off the rows so as to give the neck and body baby dragon rounded shape. To toughen our future bead toy You can stuff the body with padding polyester. I did this without any extra thought, because I know for sure that if suddenly my the Dragon If it falls into the hands of my youngest daughter, then without dense stuffing it will definitely turn into a shapeless lump. And restore lost form Very difficult.
Next we weave the second side until we weave all the rows. A third of the work has already been done. Let's start with the front legs. We string 1 white bead (claw) and 1 blue bead onto a piece of wire, pass the second end of the wire through the blue bead in the same direction as the first, as in the photo below.
Let's pick up one more blue bead, 1 white bead and pass the wire back through the blue bead. So we'll make another finger with a claw. Then we collect 1 white and 2 blue beads, pass the second end of the wire only through the blue beads. Before tightening the row, twist the wire around the remaining free white bead. Next, we will complete the required number of rows according to the pattern.
The legs turned out to be so long. Let's shorten and thicken them by collecting rows of beads like an accordion (photo below). Let's do the second front paw in the same way. The hind legs weave according to the same principle.
The dragon's wing is woven in the following sequence: first the skeleton is made, and then the wing is shaped. Let's start with the longest first "bone". We weave 50 identical rows with 1 bead in each. Let's assemble the finished accordion weaving, as in the photo below. Then we will weave the third “bone” from 31 rows and assemble it in the same way. Take one end of the wire from the first “bone” and one end from the third and weave a second “bone” of 37 rows onto them. In general, you can make each detail on a separate wire, but personally I like this option better. The fewer extra ends of the wire are hidden in the end, the neater our bead toy.
The left photo below shows what should happen. We will also collect the long “bone”. You can proceed to the fourth. On the right in the photo below you can see what you can do to continue weaving at the existing ends of the wire.
We collect beads and weave another “bone” of 25 rows of beads. Our next seed consists of 17 rows of 2 beads each. Right photo below.
Now let's pass the end of the wire through the 1st and 2nd beads in the same direction as they were placed on the wire. It will look like 3 rows are woven (left photo below). Let's pass the second end of the wire through the penultimate row and now we will continue weaving according to the pattern at 2 ends of the wire. 19 rows of 2 beads each. The photo on the right shows what the end result will be.
Let's connect all the "bones" together, hiding all the extra ends of the wire. Now you can start decorating the wing. In general, according to the pattern that I took as the basis for my dragon, the wings are also woven on wire. But to be honest, I don't really like working with wire. At this stage, my wire began to break, bend... in general, nothing worked for me. And since I really wanted to finish weaving the dragon, I found another option. Fishing line and needle. In the same way as in the version with wire, hooking onto the wires between the rows of our “bones” on the fishing line, we will collect the amount of beads required according to the diagram and, grabbing the wire of the adjacent “bone”, we will collect the next row. It turns out faster and more convenient.
But the fishing line is soft and sagging rows cannot be avoided. Having walked a little with a needle and fishing line between the rows of the wing, we will fasten them together and you will get a smooth canvas without any sagging. Now, looking at my dragon, I’m already thinking that it would be easier to weave a wing with a mosaic...
Now the wing is ready. Let's do the second and start assembling. We will pass the ends of the paw wire through the body beads in the rows indicated in the diagram, secure the wire and hide the ends. "Crocodile" is ready. All that remains is to secure the wings.
One end of the wire can be hidden, and we will weave with the other end. We collect beads according to the diagram, hooking the wire alternately onto the outermost “bone” of the wing and onto the arc of the dragon’s body. Well, that's all, our beaded dragon is ready to decorate the interior of your home or your friends.
