Modern methods of performing perm. Secrets of home perm. Perm with thioglycolic acid

Perm gained popularity in our country many years ago and remains in demand to this day. But only relatively recently did this procedure reach its perfection - it became possible to create hairstyles that are completely different from each other, in contrast to the Soviet period. These changes were influenced by innovative developments in the field of hair beauty and the latest preparations for perm.

Soviet-era “chemistry” greatly harmed the hair structure and looked very unnatural, and also required titanic efforts to care for and restore hair. But that didn’t make her any less popular.

Modern preparations for perm

A few years ago, a significant leap forward took place in the field of hair beauty - safe and effective preparations for perms were created. But the sequence and essence of the procedure remained the same - modification of the structure and shape of the hair.

The latest generation of specialized preparations not only does not harm hair health, but also has positive effects on restoring the natural structure. With minimal trauma to the hair structure, you can now achieve a spectacular result.

The latest generation of preparations contains active chemical elements responsible for the formation and consolidation of curls, as well as caring “smart” substances that can self-distribute to the areas of hair most in need of strengthening.

Classification of perms

Most curling preparations basically contain organothio compounds and their derivatives, which can affect the structure and shape of the hair, modifying it regardless of temperature conditions.

An equally important indicator of the chemical composition is the pH value of hydrogen. The higher it is, the more actively the drug affects the hair, thereby increasing the likelihood of keratin dissolution and destruction of bonds.

Alkaline permanent for chemical styling

It is characterized by a classic composition, the main active ingredient is thioglycolic acid. Used for styling and curling natural, healthy hair, resulting in bouncy curls. Its pH level, depending on the percentage of ammonia, ranges from 8.5 to 9.5.

The main disadvantage of alkaline permanent is the release of harmful hydrogen sulfide vapors, which can cause side effects such as general malaise, headache, contact and other dermatitis.

Modern alkaline preparations are less aggressive to hair due to the presence of “smart” healing substances that restore damaged areas of hair and soften the effect of the chemical composition.

Acid-balanced permanent

Acid-balanced and neutral perm compositions do not contain aggressively strong alkalis, so they are not so harmful to the hair. Their main component is glyceryl monothioglycolate.

This product requires a special activator. When they are mixed, a chemical reaction occurs, as a result of which heat is released and the mixture heats up to 40 degrees. This helps speed up the curling process.

The effect of this composition is softer than alkaline, but the curls are not as elastic, and the styling process takes longer. This method is used on tired, weak and colored hair.

The main disadvantage of this product is that the curling power is short; the styling done with it will not last very long. But the hair will look more natural and not be afraid of the influences of nature and moisture.

Soft alkaline perm

This solution is more gentle than an alkaline solution; it does not harm the structure and health of the hair. It contains amino acids, so this perm can be called medicinal.

During the curling procedure, the hair receives a protein complex that restores and improves its structure. This installation is long-term.

The chemical solution is practically odorless and does not harm the skin or respiratory system. However, there is a high risk of an allergic reaction.

Gel-like product for long-term styling

This preparation is easily squeezed out of the package and is not particularly difficult to apply. It is convenient for styling in certain parts of the head. It is usually used for styling the regrown root layer of hair, adding volume to the roots of short hair, as well as for curling hair in the temporal region with short haircuts. The product is applied to the desired areas of the hair with a comb, giving it the required shape and volume.

Foaming product for permanent

This drug is the most harmless of all existing ones. Its gentle effect on the hair allows you to create volume without frizz.

Whatever chemical perm product you choose, before using it you need to make sure there are no allergic or side effects, and also consult with a specialist who will tell you which product is suitable for your hair type.

In order to do a high-quality perm yourself, you first need to understand what effects the hair is exposed to during this procedure. If we look at a section of straight hair, we will see that it has the shape of a circle, and curly hair has the shape of an oval. What follows from this?

To curl straight hair, you need to change the shape of its section while simultaneously twisting along the axis. When you wind your hair with curlers or bobbins, it bends and changes its shape. In this case, the internal bonds of keratin (the structural protein of hair) are displaced, but not torn, and the curl is maintained until the next hair wash.

Before perm The keratin scales of the surface layer of hair are tightly closed. But under the influence of the chemical composition, the bonds inside the hair disintegrate, the protein fibers are damaged, the scales open, and at this moment the hair, when wound on bobbins of different configurations, can be given any shape. The breakdown of molecular bonds should ideally reach 30%, then the hair will become stringy and viscous.

The next step is to stabilize (fix) the new hair shape. To do this, use a weak solution of hydrogen peroxide. At this moment, the swelling of the hair stops, and it begins to return to its natural state: the previous connections inside the hair are restored, the keratin acquires its original strength and elasticity, and the scales close. This stage should be given great importance: if the fixation is done incorrectly, then the perm will turn out to be fragile. During perm hair experiences physical and chemical effects simultaneously. When wound around a bobbin, the hair is stretched, in addition, each layer of hair puts pressure on the underlying one.

Thus, two forces act on the hair - tension and pressure. As the temperature during curling increases, the hair's ability to resist changing shape decreases, so during the curling process an insulating cap is used that retains the natural heat of the human body.

Each subsequent curl will look less beautiful than the previous one, since chemicals destroy the keratin of the hair, which is why a new substance is formed in the hair - meta-keratin, which reacts differently to the curling solution. There may come a time when your hair simply stops being curled and you will have to wait a while for it to grow back.

Hair curling tools.

If you decide to do perm at home, you will need a sufficient amount bobbins of various shapes and diameters - from 50 to 80 pieces. They do not have metal parts and are secured with rubber bands. Also for perm can be used at home plastic curlers, which are also secured with an elastic band or clip. Peignoir(a special cape made of waterproof fabric) will help you keep your clothes in order, and protective gloves will protect your hands and nails from aggressive solution. Among other things, you will need:

• plastic comb-tail,
• curling compound and fixative,
• insulating cap,
• bowl and sponge for fixative,
• drug for neutralization and stabilization,
• biological fixative.

Please note that during curling, products from the same company/brand must be used. You can buy all this in a specialized store.

Perm compositions

Almost all curling lotions are based on organothio compounds and their derivatives - they make it possible to influence the shape of the hair and change it even at normal body temperature. A very important characteristic of the drug is its pH value. The higher it is, the more active the effect of the drug on the hair and the greater the likelihood of complete destruction of bonds and dissolution of hair keratin. What curling compounds are used today?

Alkaline permanent (from Latin permaneo - I remain, I continue) is used for curling healthy and natural hair. The disadvantage of alkaline permanent is that it emits harmful hydrogen sulfide vapors, which can cause various side effects in humans - headaches, malaise, dermatitis (skin inflammation).

Acid-balanced permanent used for naturally weak, tired, heavily colored hair. This composition does not contain strong alkalis and is less harmful. Its main component is glyceryl monothioglycolate. This composition begins to act only after it is mixed with the activator (it is included in the kit, both liquids must be mixed before use, since the finished mixture cannot be stored), and a chemical reaction occurs with a large release of heat, and the composition warms up to 40 degrees C. The peculiarity of the acid composition is that due to the low swelling of the hair, the hairstyle is less afraid of moisture and weather influences, and looks more natural. The disadvantage is that the product is less stable and the curl does not last very long.

Soft alkaline permanent - a gentle solution, when used, the hair also receives a protein course of treatment, due to which the hair structure improves and the curl becomes more durable. Has no smell. Disadvantage: It often causes allergies.

Gel-like product for permanent - used for curling the roots of short hair, for example, curling the temporal zones in men's short haircuts. To do this, use a comb, not bobbins.

Foam permanent - the most harmless preparation for hair curling. It is so soft that the result is hair with volume and virtually no frizz. As mentioned above, great importance when perm is given fasteners which have oxidizing properties. Such preparations must contain hydrogen peroxide, but not more than 3%. Fixators perform the final operation in the hair curling procedure, ensure stabilization of the resulting curl, and return the internal structure of the hair to its previous state. Fixatives can be of the following type and consistency:

• concentrated fixatives(they are diluted with water in a ratio of one to one, their packaging bears the inscription “1+1”),
• non-concentrated fixative(ready to eat),
• foam solution(it is foamed with a sponge and applied to the hair, but it must be remembered that in this case it is the foam that “works”)
• non-foam solution(it is applied from the spout of the bottle separately to each bobbin).

Perm stages

Ideally, it is better to do the “chemistry” in a hairdressing salon with an experienced hairdresser, but if you want to do the perm yourself, then strictly follow the instructions. First of all, you need to carefully examine the scalp and find out if there are any inflammations, scratches or abrasions on the scalp. If so, then with perm You should wait until the skin heals. Perm should be performed in the following sequence:

1. Wash your hair with shampoo, squeeze out the moisture and dry with a towel.
2. Determine the method of applying the chemical to the hair.
3. Curl your hair into bobbins.
4. Soak your hair with the chemical composition.
5. Put on an insulating cap (option: cover your head with polyethylene, wrap it in a towel).
6. Record the start time of exposure on the clock.
7. Check the quality of the curl.
8. Rinse off the drug, without removing the bobbins, with running warm water for 5-7 minutes.
9. Apply the fixative for the first time for 5-8 minutes.
10. Remove the bobbins.
11. Apply the fixative a second time for 5 minutes.
12. Rinse the fixative with running water and squeeze out the water.
13. Rinse your hair with an acidic solution to neutralize the fixer.
14. Dry your hair with a towel.
15. Apply a medicinal product to restore hair structure.

When performing these procedures, there are several important points that you should definitely pay attention to and in no case neglect them.

Determining the condition of hair and scalp before curling

As mentioned above, if there is any damage to the skin on the head, perm better to reschedule. It is also necessary to check whether you have an allergic reaction to the drugs. It appears most quickly on the thin, delicate skin behind the ear. To check, you need to apply the composition with a cotton swab on the skin and after 10-15 minutes it will be clear whether there is an allergy or not (redness, rash, itching may appear).

You need to be especially careful with blonde (bleached) hair. If, after immersion in curling lotion, they do not break, but lose their original appearance, the composition must be diluted with water in a one-to-one ratio.

Choosing a curling composition

It is very important to assess the condition of the hair and make the right choice of the appropriate drug, since the degree of impact of different drugs differs from each other. First of all, we need to determine hair structure .

Let us remind you that hair can be soft, medium, or hard.

How to determine this?

If your hair feels soft and limp to the touch, then you have soft hair; if it is coarse and thick, it means it’s coarse; and if it’s neither, then you have normal hair. Then it is determined hair quality - thin, thick or normal. As a rule, hair structure and its quality are closely interrelated. If your hair is soft, it means it is thin. Blondes are more likely to have this type of hair, while brunettes are more likely to have thick, thick hair. In addition, it is very important type of previous hair treatment - dyed, bleached, with permanent residue, untreated. The fact is that the previous method of processing hair increases its porosity; it can also increase under the influence of sunlight, salt water, and hot air. In these cases, it is necessary to select the optimal chemical composition and means of protection, and in case of severe damage to the hair structure, it is better to carry out preliminary treatment. There are several permanent rules for damaged hair:

• when curling the roots that have grown after the perm, you should try not to apply the composition to previously curled hair;
• For heavily bleached hair and a large percentage of highlighted (partially dyed) strands, hair protection products must be used to even out the structure of dyed and sectioned hair and ensure uniformity perm. Keep in mind that every company that produces formulations for perm, usually offers several types of drugs:
• for healthy, previously untreated, difficult-to-treat hair,
• for normal hair,
• for porous hair that has previously been exposed to oxidizing agents,
• for blond and highlighted hair.

Having chosen a composition, you must strictly adhere to the instructions for use, since there may be differences not only between drugs from different companies, but also between the next generation of the composition from the same company.

Hair washing

There is a rule: perm Performed only on clean hair! Therefore, before curling, you must wash them, regardless of the last time you did this. This will slightly open the scales, which will speed up the penetration of the curling composition into the hair. The hair is washed once, and the scalp does not need to be massaged in order to preserve the fat layer on it, which will protect it from excessive exposure to acids and alkalis. After drying your hair with a towel, comb it, but you should not use a hair brush either before or after washing, so as not to damage the cuticle (the top layer of hair).

Curling hair with bobbins

Depending on the hair type, bobbins are chosen. If the hair is hard and elastic, then it is wound in thin strands on large bobbins. Medium-bodied hair is best curled with medium-sized curlers. Thin hair is wound into small bobbins, separating very thin strands. In this case, the strands must be separated with zigzag partings so that clear parting lines do not form, and the bobbins must be placed in a checkerboard pattern. It must be taken into account that the thickness and width of the strand must correspond to the thickness and length of the bobbin. The process of winding strands of hair onto a bobbin is as follows: the strands are separated from each other with a comb-tail, combed out, pulled perpendicular to the head and wound onto the bobbins. Make sure that the ends of the strands are carefully twisted and do not bristle or stand out from the general mass. The direction of hair curling depends on:

1. on the direction of hair growth (if this is not taken into account, the hair can be broken at the root),
2. from the future hairstyle (it is better to place the bobbins in the direction in which the hair will lie in the future),
3. from a haircut, which can be emphasized using curlers of different diameters.

The angle of tension of the strand can be different: the higher the strand is moved relative to its base, the more magnificent it will be later. If volume at the roots is not required, then the bobbin is placed as low as possible to the base of the strand. The securing elastic should not be tight, pressed into the hair or located close to the roots, so that there are no creases that can lead to hair breakage. The elastic band can be at the top of the curler or placed crosswise. You can also use hairpins to secure your hair - wooden or plastic.

Hair curling methods

Direct method. The hair is first moistened with the composition and then curled: first from the lower part of the back of the head, since this is the coldest zone and the healthiest hair grows there. To get an even curl, you need to curl your hair very quickly. They are pre-wetted in the composition, then, after winding, they are impregnated with it two more times. Indirect method. Wet hair is rolled into curlers and then moistened with a curling solution, and as it dries, it is moistened with a spray bottle. Winding is done in any sequence. This method is most preferable, since wet hair absorbs the solution faster and better retains its original structure. Mixed method. It is used for hair longer than 20 cm. Before curling, only the ends of the hair should be moistened with the composition, retreating 2/3 from the roots. In this way, the bobbins are wound around the entire head, and then all the hair is wetted. According to the way the bobbins are placed on the head, the curl is divided into horizontal and vertical. At horizontal way the hair is wound onto a bobbin located horizontally in relation to the base of the strand, from the end of the strand to its base. The disadvantage of this method is that a high-quality curl is obtained only on the first revolutions of the bobbin, then it weakens due to the increase in the diameter of the bobbin with each revolution. At vertical way the hair is wound in the reverse order - from the roots of the hair to its ends - and the bobbin is located vertically on the head. The main advantage of this type of curling is that the curl is uniform along the entire length of the strand. But at the same time, the hair does not come into contact with the head and there is not always enough internal heat for the curling process. One more note: if the hair has been permed several times and the ends of the hair are completely lifeless, then you can wrap the ends of the hair in paper. In this case, the ends will not suffer so much.

Applying the curling compound

When all the hair is twisted into bobbins, the composition is applied to each bobbin from above and below with a brush. This must be done quickly and evenly. You cannot apply a very large amount of the composition at once, since the upper layers of the hair, having absorbed too much moisture, will swell and will not allow the composition to pass into the lower layers, which will remain uncurled; in addition, the composition may begin to flow off, which is not always pleasant. The first time you need to apply the composition very sparingly. The second time you can apply a little more. And the third time it is applied until the liquid stops being absorbed. In this case, you cannot save the composition or fixative, since the hair must be soaked very well. Before applying the composition, the scalp along the hairline should be lubricated with a protective cream, and a napkin rolled up should be tied around the head. After impregnation of the hair with the composition, the tourniquet is removed. After the hair is evenly moistened, a warming cap is very carefully placed on the head, being careful not to move the bobbins. To preserve heat, the cap must be tightly secured, otherwise the curling process will be lengthened.

Exposure time

The holding time is always individual, on average from 10 to 30 minutes, as it depends on the structure of the hair and the desire to have a curl of one or another elasticity. To determine it, it is necessary to untwist the strands in different parts of the head during the curling process. (It's important to remember to twist the strands back!) A sign of a good curl is a bouncy and moist curl. After rinsing and fixing, the degree of curl in the hair will increase slightly, and if the exposure time is too short, the curl will not have time to form completely and will be short-lived; if exposed to the curling composition for too long, the hair can be severely damaged.

Rinse

Without removing the bobbins, you need to rinse your hair very thoroughly in the shower. Rinse time depends on hair length. So hair up to 10 cm in length is washed for at least 1 minute, 10-20 cm - 2 minutes or more, and hair longer than 20 cm must be washed for at least 3 minutes.

Fixation

Bottom line perm depends on proper fixation, which restores the damaged hair structure. If the fixation is done superficially, the molecular bonds of the hair will remain partially split and the hair will be inelastic. After thoroughly washing your hair and patting it with a towel, apply the fixative.

The holding time is determined according to the following table:

After applying the fixative and the required holding time, the bobbins are carefully removed, trying not to pull back the curl. Then the fixative is applied again. After re-fixation, the hair is thoroughly washed and treated with a preparation to neutralize and stabilize.

At the final stage, a biological fixative is applied, which instantly strengthens the hair keratin, makes the hair elastic, and affects the duration of preservation. perm and elasticity of curls. After thoroughly washing your hair after fixing, you need to blot it with a towel and apply the product evenly to it. After 3 minutes, the hair is thoroughly washed again. After this, you can use a rinse balm, which will restore the natural acid pH of the hair and scalp and make combing easier.

Hair care after perm

It takes at least 48 hours for the hair keratin to strengthen. Therefore, it is advisable not to dry or blow-dry your hair during this time, or curl it with curlers. For hair care with perm there are rules:

• You need to wash your hair only with special shampoos, and also use special hair balms with perm.
• If the hair is very dry, you should carry out intensive treatment that will restore the hair structure: you can use medicinal products, masks for weakened hair. The course of treatment is at least 10 sessions.
• After every 3-4 hair washes, it is advisable to use medicinal preparations, and for long hair, a preparation for the ends of the hair is necessary, because they will become drier after curling.
• In order for the “chemistry” to last as long as possible, you should not pull your hair while it is wet or twist it with a towel. You can comb them only with a sparse comb, and immediately shape them with your hands. Don't go to bed with a wet head.
• It is necessary to protect your hair from exposure to direct sunlight, salt and cold water, and in the summer to protect it with special preparations with ultraviolet protection.
• Laying is done in a more gentle way. It is important not to overdry your hair or damage it with backcombing. For styling you should use a nourishing foam balm.

And after all these manipulations, you can finally enjoy the result. The efforts of the home hairdresser will not be in vain: with perm morning styling becomes easier, because the hair has become more pliable and soft, holds its shape better and makes it possible to try many different hairstyles.

Manufactured hair perm products must meet the following requirements:

1. hair retains its curl for at least 3 months, even if cut;

2. hair does not change its original color;

3. the drug is easily washed off from the hair with warm water;

4. the product contains surfactants (surfactants) that provide good wetting and impregnation of the hair;

5. the drug has neither an allergic nor an irritating effect on the skin, and its vapors have no effect on the mucous membrane;

6. The drug has a perfume smell (not strong).

The basis of almost all currently produced hair perm preparations are organothio compounds and their derivatives. Most recipes for foreign perm preparations contain thioglycolic acid, which has restorative properties. Compounds belonging to the organothio group make it possible to influence the shape of the hair even at normal human body temperature. This, obviously, can explain the fact that organothio compounds are included in almost all preparations for perm. Significant disadvantages of these compounds include:

1) a sharp unpleasant odor due to the release of hydrogen sulfide and mercaptan in the air;

2) toxicity, causing painful phenomena - headaches, general malaise, decrease in the content of white blood cells, etc.

When studying the effect of a solution of thioglycolic acid on the human body when used in hairdressing, cases of diseases were noted in persons preparing solutions of thioglycolic acid: a decrease in the content of white blood cells and the number of platelets, headaches, general weakness and malaise, gastrointestinal disorders, kidney function. In addition, when working with solutions of thioglycolic acid, skin diseases were also observed: redness, itching, eczema, urticaria and nail damage. Such diseases can occur both in hairdressers and in people who independently use such compositions.

As protective equipment for hairdressers, various bactericidal ointments, biological protective preparations, coating of nails with varnish, reducing the time of contact with harmful solutions and the use of gauze masks when working are recommended. It is not recommended to neglect protective equipment. Their skillful and correct use largely protects the hairdresser from direct contact with harmful compounds and their vapors. So, when winding hair onto bobbins, you should use rubber gloves. Having acquired the skill of working with gloves, you can perform this operation at the same speed as without them.

For chemical hair perming, hairdressing salons use the following preparations: “Londa” and “Mintox”, “Lokon” and “Zavitol”.

In terms of the chemical composition and degree of effect on hair, “Londa” is close to “Lokon”, and “Zavitol” is close to “Mintox”. The similarity between the preparations “Londa” and “Lokon” is explained by the fact that they are prepared on the same basis. The percentage of the main component - thioglycolic acid - in the preparations "Londa" and "Lokon" is about 6.5%.

Currently, the Vella company has released a new preparation for chemical perming, which is very popular, since the process of winding onto bobbins does not require gloves to protect hands from the chemical composition. In this case, the time for winding on bobbins is reduced. The composition of the drug "Vella" includes:

Perm liquid - 100 ml (1);

Liquid for fixation - 100 ml (2);

Plastic cap:

Instructions.

Depending on the length of the hair, the contents of the bottle are enough for 1-2 applications.

Washing and curling hair

1. Wash your hair with a mild shampoo without massaging the scalp.

2. Use a towel to squeeze out excess water.

3. Curl your hair. The hair should not be treated with a perm solution before wrapping it with bobbins.

4. Select the bobbin winding system according to the haircut style.

5. Wear gloves to apply the solution.

6. Lubricate the forehead, temples and neck with cream along the hairline.

7. Roll the gauze into a rope and tie it around your head to protect the skin from the flowing solution.

8. After winding the hair onto the bobbins, thoroughly moisten each bobbin with the solution, starting from the neck. The solution should be applied with a sponge in small doses to avoid getting excess on the skin. If the solution gets on your skin, rinse it immediately with a cotton swab and water.

Technological data on the use of drugs for perming hair of various structures

Hair structure	Ratio parts	Exposure time on hair, min	Notes
				No extra heat	Under the PA-1 apparatus
Regular fine hair
Dry thin hair							Hair soaked in water
Oily fine hair
Regular medium hard strips
Medium hard ear strips						Hair soaked in water
Oily hair of medium coarseness
Regular coarse hair
Dry, coarse hair						Hair, moistened with water
Oily coarse hair
Lightly bleached and primarily colored hair							Hair, moistened with water, milk or “Londestral”
Lightly bleached and multi-dyed hair

Do not exceed the specified action time, otherwise you can significantly damage the hair structure.

The strength of a perm depends on:

The selected perm preparation;

The size of the bobbins (large bobbins - a light curl, small bobbins - a steep curl);

Hair conditions;

Duration of action of the composition for perm on hair.

Rinsing

After the action time has expired, rinse the hair wound onto the bobbins thoroughly with warm water for 2 minutes (without removing the bobbins and gloves).

Fixation

1. Use a towel to dry your hair.

2. Pour 100 ml of foam fixative into a bowl, foam the composition with a clean sponge and apply the fixative evenly to all bobbins.

3. Leave the fixer for 7-10 minutes.

4. Carefully remove all the bobbins, starting from the lower occipital area, apply the remaining fixative to the hair and leave it on the hair for another 5 minutes.

5. Rinse hair thoroughly with running water.

Hairstyle plays one of the main roles in creating a stylish and complete look. Representatives of the fairer sex try to improve their appearance by any means and do a variety of cosmetic procedures. The modern beauty industry offers new methods of transformation, and the focus is primarily on safety, minimizing negative consequences and ease of use of products. Hair perm is also being improved.

History and theory

The hardware perm procedure was first performed in 1908 by Karl Ludwig Nessler. It was this enterprising German who invented permanent and false eyelashes. The hairdresser made his wife's dream of luxurious curls come true; she became his first client. There was no need to talk about the good condition of the curls after such a procedure. However, numerous fans of this method did not complain and turned to it more than once.

Nowadays, having ringlets and curls is still relevant, but the chemicals themselves do not cause significant harm to the hair.

Perm is a very labor-intensive and complex procedure for transforming straight, sparse hair into luxurious, voluminous and thick hair. With a perm, you can get wavy locks, large curls or small curls.

Important points

Every hair procedure must begin with a diagnosis. It is necessary to assess the health of the curls, paying special attention to damage. For different hair types, special formulations are used that are suitable for them. An experienced hairdresser will definitely tell you whether it is possible to perm your hair or whether it needs to be treated first.

Features and types of curling

The technique of this procedure has undergone many changes. Nowadays, salons offer several perm methods to choose from. They differ in the resulting curl size, frequency, winding method, and chemical composition.

Acidic

This is a rather aggressive method in which the drug penetrates the structure of each hair without opening its outer cuticle. The result of such chemistry will be tough, beautiful curls.

• This option is not suitable for women with thin and soft hair. The curls will quickly lose their shape and straighten out at the base. The hairstyle will look ugly and not well-groomed.
• It is also better for girls with dry, damaged hair and sensitive scalp to avoid such chemicals.
• Acid perm with thioglycolic acid is considered the most gentle. The hair will hold a curl for about three to four weeks. This method can be used even on newly dyed strands.

Alkaline

This type of transformation will delight you for no more than 12 weeks. The curls are natural and elastic. In this case, a special preparation opens the cuticle and gets into the middle of the hair.

• The alkaline composition acts more gently. On thick, coarse strands the chemical will last only four weeks.
• This method has a lower cost than the one described above.

Neutral

This gentle perm can be done on any hair; the product is applied to the entire length and roots. You will have flexible and long-lasting curls for 12-18 weeks.

Amino acid

Manufacturers include protein and amino acids in the curling composition that nourish curls. It does not spoil the strands and almost does not harm the hair.

• The result is a beautiful natural curl, but it will only last a few days.
• Amino acid perm is not done on long, heavy and coarse hair; the curls will quickly unwind under their own weight.

Bioperm

The drug contains no substances that can cause significant harm. Thioglycolic acid, peroxide and ammonia were replaced by other components that are similar to the molecules of the hair itself.

• After this procedure, the curl looks healthy, shiny and lasts about 10-12 weeks. This type of perm is best done on hair that has not been subjected to any chemical treatment for six months.
• You shouldn't do a bio-perm if you have dry hair. After the session, the curls may become even drier and more porous, they will begin to get tangled and difficult to style.

But those with oily hair type can afford it. Biowave normalizes the functioning of the sebaceous glands, slightly drying the strands.

Silk wave

Suitable for girls with curls up to shoulder length and below. The chemical composition includes silk proteins, which have caring properties and give the hair additional shine and silkiness.

The curling method also varies

Perm for long hair

Large curls look best on long hair. This curl size is obtained when using large diameter bobbins. The master also regulates its hardness and intensity by keeping the composition on the strands.

At the base, the curls are not so steep and lush; they unwind under their own weight. If you want uniform curls, then contact an experienced specialist. Only a highly qualified hairdresser will be able to make a curl using bobbins of different sizes and avoid creases and noticeable transitions.

Experts recommend doing a cascading haircut or light graduation before curling. Slightly shortened top strands will make the hairstyle more voluminous, add volume and help create uniform curls at the roots and ends.

Curl for medium hair

Most often, perm is performed on medium hair. The spiral turns out uniform, neat and does not unwind. Curling will provide faster styling, beautiful and voluminous curls.

On hair of this length, you can use almost all curling methods. Root, vertical and other types of chemistry are used. The average length is universal, this gives the master stylist a large field of activity for experimentation.

Curling short hair

The main advantage of short hair is that it can be easily done with a light bio-perm and traditional chemical treatments. Now almost any beauty salon will offer you the most suitable options. But you should approach the choice of a specialist responsibly; it is better if you study the reviews or if your friends recommend a good specialist to you.

A bob or bob looks great with large curls, spiral curls or small curls. A cute bob with short bangs will give your face freshness, and curls will add romance.

A bob without bangs with a curl can also be worn with a straight parting, and a side braid will make the hairstyle more original. Avant-garde ladies will like the option with a low parting, when almost all the curls lie on one side; this will add a touch of sensuality and mystery to the image.

A curl will perfectly highlight the beauty of a graduated bob or bob. Even a small ladder will look great; the hairstyle will look beautiful and original.

A multi-stage haircut in combination with steep curls can give elegance and grace to unruly locks. Hair will be easy to style and, with proper care, look healthy and shiny.

What you should know when deciding to get a perm

If you want to become the owner of beautiful curls, you should be aware of the following disadvantages of chemistry:

Of course, there are undeniable advantages:

1. Beautiful curls of any size look stylish and will always be in trend.
2. A curl will add volume to your hairstyle.
3. With chemicals, hair is easier to style.
4. Modern perm compositions do not cause as much harm as their predecessors, and with proper care, your hairstyle will delight you and those around you for a long time.

Proper care and recovery

You can treat, moisturize and nourish your curls after the procedure using both special professional means and folk methods. The first option is the most effective, but costly.

At home, trichologists recommend:

1. For two days it is not recommended to wash your hair, dry it with hot air, or use curlers.
2. Avoid tight hairstyles: ponytails, braids. Walk around with your hair down more often.
3. After washing your hair, do not twist it, gently pat dry with a towel.
4. When combing, try to immediately form curls.
5. Always dry your hair before going to bed.

To make your curls look beautiful, bouncy and defined, they need to be styled in a certain way. A diffuser and the use of cosmetics specially designed for this will help you with this.

Most representatives of the fair sex are sure that the perm procedure will completely ruin their curls and it will be impossible to restore them. But it's not like that at all.

Almost all curling lotions are created on the basis of organothio compounds and their derivatives, which make it possible to influence the shape of the hair and change it even at normal body temperature.

A very important characteristic of the chemical composition for hair curling is its pH value.

The higher the pH, the more active the effect of the chemical composition on the hair and the greater the likelihood of complete destruction of bonds and dissolution of hair keratin.

Alkaline hair perm

Alkaline permanent is a classic composition, the main component of which is thioglycolic acid.

This chemical composition is used to curl healthy and natural hair and creates an elastic curl. Its pH is 8.5-9.5 (depending on ammonia content).

The disadvantage of alkaline permanent is that it emits harmful hydrogen sulfide vapors, which, when inhaled, can cause various side effects in humans - headaches, malaise, dermatitis. Therefore, it is very important to ensure that the premises of hairdressing salons are very well ventilated.

Classic alkaline compositions today are no longer so aggressive on the hair due to the presence of substances in them that heal damage already existing on the hair and weaken the effect of the chemical composition for curling on these places.

Acid-balanced hair perm

Neutral and acid-balanced hair curling chemicals were introduced in 1970.

These formulations do not contain strong alkalis and are therefore less harmful to hair.

The main component of these chemical compounds is glyceryl monothioglycolate.

These solutions have a pH (5-7) lower than alkaline, that is, closer to the pH of the hair and scalp.

The drug begins to “work” only after it is mixed with the activator. When mixed, a chemical reaction occurs with a large release of heat, and the composition is heated to a temperature of 40°C, which significantly speeds up the hair curling process.

The action of an acid-balanced permanent is much softer than an alkaline one, but the curl is less elastic. Since this composition penetrates into the hair more slowly than the alkaline one, the hair curling process takes a little longer.

This type of permanent is used for naturally weak, tired, heavily colored hair.

The disadvantage of this composition is that it is less stable, and the curl does not stay on the hair for very long. The peculiarity of the acid composition for curling is that due to the low swelling of the hair, the hairstyle is less afraid of moisture and weather influences, and curls and waves look more natural. When working with this drug, you should remember that both liquids are mixed immediately before use and the resulting composition cannot be stored.

Soft alkaline hair perm

A gentle permanent solution based on amino acids does not cause any harm to the hair compared to a regular alkaline one.

When performing chemical treatments, the hair receives a protein treatment, which improves the structure of damaged hair and makes the curl more durable.

The drug has almost no odor and does not cause any harm to the skin and respiratory organs. But the risk of allergies when using this composition is higher than when using a conventional alkaline composition.