Denim sundress for girls. We sew ourselves. Warm sundress for a girl: with patterns and step-by-step master class Sew a dress with a fluffy sundress for a girl

A sundress is a type of women's clothing, invented in Ancient Rus'. There are not many details or darts in this item. Typically, a sundress is sewn from one or two panels and straps that hold the product on the shoulders.

First model

Making such a thing yourself will not be difficult even for those who have never held a needle in their hands. The simplest model is sewn without using a pattern. The process will literally take an hour. To do this, you just need to measure your chest circumference and increase it by 2-3 centimeters. On the fabric, folded in half, set aside the required length of the future product, with allowances for the hem. Mark the length on two perpendicular sides and connect with an arcuate line. Cut along an arc. Then measure half the length of the circumference of the upper part and cut along this line. Sew the fabric along the back, fold the fabric along the top and bottom of the product, and sew with a double stitch.

The straps for such a sundress can be used from ready-made satin ribbon. Another option is to sew it yourself. To do this, fold the fabric and measure the required width and length. Sew from the wrong side, leaving one edge open. Then turn it right side out. Then you need to iron it and sew it to the main part. The sundress is ready.

We sew on a T-shirt

Most often, sundresses are casual wear for girls of all ages. After all, such clothes are light, practical and do not impede movement. How to do it yourself for a girl? You can, of course, use the first sewing method described above. Or you can sew it using one of the child’s T-shirts as a sample. To do this, you need to fold the prepared fabric in half with the wrong side up.

Then put the T-shirt and trace it along the outline. Then set aside the required length. The second part of the sundress will correspond to the back of the T-shirt. Both pieces are then cut taking into account seam allowances. All that remains is to stitch along the side sections and the top sections on the shoulders. Afterwards you need to process the side armholes on the sleeves and hem the bottom of the product. Here's how to sew a sundress with your own hands for a girl without drawing up a pattern. As you can see, everything is done quite simply.

We sew a dress from an old thing

How for a girl from an old skirt or dress? To do this, you need to cut off the bottom of the dress. This is usually the largest piece with the most fabric. Then you can attach a children's T-shirt to the material and sew a sundress using the second method. Another option is to sew a sun skirt, with a length equal to the desired length of the sundress, insert an elastic band into the waist part according to the volume of the chest. Add straps for shoulder straps. That's it, the outfit is ready.

Sew with a pattern

How can I have patterns for which I already have? They only need to be transferred to plastic film and then transferred to fabric. Or you can make a pattern yourself. You just need to measure your chest, waist, hips and length.

The sundress pattern is based on a trapezoid. At the top base, half the chest circumference is laid off, then the length from the chest to the waist is measured, at this intersection half the waist circumference is laid off. Afterwards, a perpendicular is drawn equal to the length from the waist to the middle of the thigh. At this point, half the circumference of the hips is set aside. Next, the pattern continues to the required length. The base of the sundress should be 10 centimeters larger than the circumference of the hips. The pattern for the sundress is ready. Now it is simply transferred to the fabric, after which the item is made from it.

How to sew a sundress for a girl whose patterns are made for large volumes? It is only necessary to recalculate all the data regarding the dimensions of the model. Then you should rebuild the pattern based on this model.

Denim model

How to sew a sundress with your own hands for a girl from denim? Jeans is a fairly dense material. With little sewing experience, you can ruin both the fabric and the future product. It is best to use the services of specialists. However, if the sewing machine can handle denim fabric and the housewife has sufficient sewing skills, then you can make everything yourself.

The pattern shouldn't be too complicated. This product is usually made on the basis of a T-shirt dress, has a fastener on the front of the product and two side pockets. There should be no additional darts or folds on a denim outfit.

In order for the sundress to sit beautifully on the figure and add elegance, it is necessary to remember that only correct, even seams should be on the product. Take all measurements accurately and place them on the fabric, centimeter by centimeter. The length of the front and back panels should be the same. That's all the advice

Conclusion

Now you know how to sew a sundress with your own hands; some patterns are presented in the article. Helpful tips are also given. Don't be afraid to make such a lightweight model. After all, a sundress is always in fashion and is always useful for wearing both at home and for walks on the beach or the city. Every girl of any age will be glad to have a couple of different models in her wardrobe.

There is simply a huge assortment of different summer children's clothing, but the sundress is considered the most comfortable outfit for a girl. A sundress is an important part of the wardrobe, and all thanks to its practicality, because such a model can be worn by representatives of different ages. A sundress pattern for a girl will allow you to create an outfit with your own hands that will be ideal for a little fashionista.

Choosing a model based on age

A silhouette called trapezoid is suitable for little ones. Very often, such models of sundresses are equipped with straps, and you do not need to have any special skills to sew them.

The patterns for the front and back trapezoidal outfits are not much different from each other, so they are very easy to make. The sundress widens a little at the bottom, and to create a pattern you need to measure the chest circumference to determine the upper part, and also choose the length of the outfit. In addition, you need to measure the width of your arms to draw the armhole.

Dresses for older girls are more sophisticated and sophisticated. To make the sundress pattern for a 7-year-old girl special, combine a variety of fabric colors. There is no need to limit your imagination, because you can create several different sundresses of the same style. A circle skirt is considered a very popular option among little fashionistas.

Sundresses with a skirt consisting of several panels also look beautiful. This outfit has a festive look. The sundress set with figaro looks interesting. A cape-jacket will make the outfit fashionable and more versatile. The main thing is to use similar fabric for figaro. To pattern a shelf with a back, take any jacket or blouse. Short puff sleeves look great.

Necessary materials:

• fabric (its width and length are calculated taking into account the size of the child);
• sewing machine;
• threads;
• paper;
• pencil;
• ruler;
• chalk or dry soap.

Sundress pattern for girls 10 years and older:

1. We transfer the pattern to paper, calculating the length of the lines taking into account the size of the girl, as well as the product.
2. After drawing the pattern, it must be cut out and then applied to the fabric.
3. All parts should be carefully outlined with chalk or a piece of soap (it is better not to use a pen or felt-tip pen for this, because there will be marks that will be very difficult to wash off).
4. All that remains is to cut out the parts and sew them.

1. We cut out a large rectangle, setting aside vertical allowances for hemming the bottom edge (although it is better to trim the bottom part with some kind of lace or ribbon).
2. Leave an allowance for the drawstring. Its dimensions are affected by the width of the rope or tape - if the braid or tape is quite thin, you need to add only 5 cm; when it is wide or a twisted cord is used, then you need to leave 10 cm.
3. At the same time, we choose the width of the product taking into account that if it is wide, then there will be a lot of assemblies. Pleats look great if the fabric is thin, so they can be used in large quantities. Whereas hard material must be dosed, otherwise the sundress will look like a bell.
4. Leave allowances for all seams.
5. We cut out two main parts - one will be used for the front, the second for the back. We mow a few centimeters at the armhole, taking into account the fullness of the baby.
6. All that remains is to sew a sundress for a girl with your own hands: transfer the patterns to the fabric, and if all is well, sew it on a machine.

Read also:

School sundress pattern:

1. Using the measurements taken, prepare the main pattern by drawing the main lines on it.
2. When making the back, divide the dart located at the back into two parts. Continue the middle lines to the very bottom until they intersect with the bottom of the outfit. The bottom and waist lines need to be extended by 5 cm. Connect the resulting points with a line, leaving an allowance for assembling the product.
3. In the middle of the front part, you need to set aside 2 cm from the neck itself. Then draw a line from the resulting point to the neck. Set aside 2 cm from the middle of the front along the waist to the right so that the bodice can be fastened.
4. Mark several loops: one 2 cm lower from the neckline, the distance between the others should be 6 cm.
5. Continue darts until they intersect with the bottom of the garment.
6. Along the bottom of the skirt you need to set aside 5 cm for allowances.
7. The sleeve pattern remains unchanged. The length of the cuff should be the circumference of the girl’s wrist, to which 2 cm is added.
8. The result is a school sundress for a girl: the pattern must be numbered before transferring it to the fabric. Otherwise the parts may get mixed up.

To make a pattern for children's dresses and sundresses, you don't have to know how to sew dresses for adults or be a sewing master. Many models of dresses and sundresses are sewn very simply, and creating a pattern will take no more than 30 minutes. And a dress sized for little ladies will be special and individual, unlike one bought in a store.

Simple option

The simplest dress is a one-piece dress, which is sewn from any materials. It is suitable for ages from 1 to 3 years. For 3 years, many sew more difficult dresses, but as a summer lightweight option, this style is suitable for 5 years. You can easily find patterns for children's dresses for girls in our material.

The basis for the dress can be downloaded for free on the Internet, after which it can be adjusted to the desired size and added with details - ties, pockets, an additional skirt, buttons. But it’s more interesting to do it yourself, especially since it won’t take much time. Find out how to make this outfit below.

• Prepare paper for the pattern. Find a T-shirt in your daughter’s wardrobe that is not too small for her;
• Next, put the T-shirt on the paper and smooth it out so that there are no unnecessary folds. Trace the outline of the T-shirt, or just the outline of the neckline and armhole. Next, the lines need to be widened towards the bottom and rounded at the bottom. It’s not scary if the pattern turns out to be asymmetrical, since only half of the product will be needed for sewing.

• Choose the length of the dress according to age. Choose the neckline of the dress. Next, measure the circumference of the child’s chest, divide it in half, obtaining a half-circumference. Determine the size of A and B. If there is no child nearby, or you are sewing as a gift for someone, you can refer to the tables that indicate sizes for small children.

• Measure the distances for allowances so that the dress fits freely on the child;
• Divide the pattern in half and cut it, since only one half is useful, you can choose the most successful half if they turn out different.

Summer model

Summer sundresses come in completely different models: from simple ones with ties to complex patterned multi-layered sundresses. Let's look at two sundresses. For a sundress, a child under five years old will not need difficult patterns. You can make a simple sundress with straps.

It’s even easier to sew a sundress that is tightened with a ribbon. And it looks bright and beautiful, suitable for any age of child.

For a teenage girl

It is not much more difficult to sew a sundress for 10 years, but it is unlikely to be possible to do everything by eye, so it is better to take the basic dress pattern as a basis.

It will be a sleeveless bodycon dress with a big bow on the front.

Front and back. The neckline needs to be deepened by 3-4 cm, and a new neckline must be built according to the given parameters. In order for the dress to emphasize the beauty of the figure, it needs to be fitted and widened at the bottom. On the back, at the waist line, retreat 1.5 cm, increase the bottom line by 3 cm. Since the dress has thin straps, the shoulder needs to be reduced by 2.5 cm and a new armhole made. Next, about 3 cm wide, make a facing for the neckline and an armhole facing.

Color transition. The dress will have a color transition, so horizontal lines should be used to mark the color change on the dress. You need to do this on both the front and the back pattern.

Cut the pattern and you can start sewing.

The basis of the outfit

To sew many dresses for your child, you can make a base pattern, which will easily be used to sew any dress in the future. To do this you need to take measurements:

• Lengths: back to waist, total length, shoulder, sleeves;
• Half-circumferences: neck and chest.

Build a rectangle on graph paper ABCD, AD is the length of the dress, AB and BC are the width = Length + 4 cm for allowance.

Please note that the seam allowance can be made smaller, then the dress will fit more tightly.

From A, retreat 1/3 * Pog + 6 cm and place G. From G, draw a line to BC, mark G1. From A, retreat Dc and mark the melancholy T, draw a line from it to BC and place point T1. Divide GG1 into two equal parts, mark G4 and draw a line from it to DC, mark H and H2. From G4 to the right and left, set aside ½*the width of the armhole (W=¼*Log+2 cm). Install G2 and G3. From G2 and G3, build straight lines upward to AB, place P1 and P. From B and P1, retreat 2 cm, place P2 and P3. Make a segment P2P3. PG2 is divided into two equal sections, and P1G3 is divided similarly into three sections.

From A, retreat to the right 1/3*Posh+0.5 cm, and another 1.5 cm to the right, connect the curve with A, you can use a pattern. From P, retreat 1.5 cm, draw a shoulder line using the resulting points, length = Dp. Divide angle G2 in half and retreat 2.5 cm on the resulting line, draw a line to G4.

From T2, retreat 2 cm, through G4 and the resulting point, draw a line to DC, not finishing 1 cm. Divide DH in half, connect the resulting point with 1 cm. From P3, retreat 1/3 * Posh + 1 cm down. From P3, retreat 1/3*Posh+0.5 cm to the left. Connect the resulting points with a curved concave line. From P2, retreat 3 cm and draw a shoulder line. Angle G3 is divided in half. Draw the armhole line through division P1G3 to point G4. From T2, retreat 2 cm to the left, draw a seam line from G4 to DC, not finishing 1 cm. From T1, retreat 2 cm down and connect to point 2 on the seam. From C, make segment BC 2 cm larger, connect the dots along the bottom.

The pattern is ready, it can be used as the basis for any dress for little princesses!

Video on the topic of the article

We sew children's dresses - easy and simple

We sew children's dresses - easily and simply with Olga Klishevskaya

Hello, dear mothers, I’m starting a series of articles on sewing children's dresses. The motto of these articles will be “Down with complex drawings and intricate calculations of patterns”.

Many people are put off by complex patterns, taking measurements, and various mathematical calculations, especially if you weren’t very familiar with geometry and drawing at school.

My goal is to explain everything in such a way that even mothers who do not have a mathematical mind can sew clothes for their children.

I will show you how to sew beautiful children's dresses yourself - I will tell you everything in as much detail and in an accessible language as possible, without resorting to abstruse tailoring terms.

For each dress, I will draw picture diagrams on which I will try to show step by step the sewing of a children's dress, starting from creating a pattern to working with fabric. Even those who do not have sewing skills or a sewing machine will be able to please their daughter with a new thing, sewn by her mother’s loving hands. So let's get started.

A simple one-piece dress is the basis of all dresses.

Let's start with a simple one-piece dress. I will tell you and show you how to make a pattern for a one-piece children's dress, and then use this one pattern to sew all these dresses.

Yes, yes, having just one pattern, we will sew in the future many different beautiful models of children's dresses. Let's get started...

Let's draw a pattern.

As I promised, there won’t be anything super complicated. Open the closet with your baby's clothes and find a T-shirt that fits her just right(that is, not tight or large, but more or less in size).

This T-shirt will serve as our assistant when creating a pattern for a future dress.

We also need a sheet of paper of such a size that the pattern of our future dress can fit on it - I use a tube of unnecessary old wallpaper for this (if you don’t have old ones, buy a tube of the cheapest wallpaper in the store - this roll will be enough for you to make many patterns, like a child , and to yourself).

We unfold a sheet of wallpaper on the floor with the wrong side up (so that the pattern does not distract from the pattern), press the edges with something, so that he doesn’t bend over and crawl on the floor(I press my husband with dumbbells or thick books). We place a straightened (pre-ironed) T-shirt on top and trace the outline of the T-shirt with a pencil. They circled it - that’s it, we don’t need the T-shirt anymore.

Note:

If you don't have a sleeveless T-shirt , but there is only a T-shirt with sleeves, don’t worry, it will also fit. When you trace the T-shirt, use a pin to trace the armholes through the sleeve of the T-shirt. Along the entire armhole seam, make pin holes through the T-shirt and the underlying paper. For this, it is better to spread the paper not on a hard surface, but on the carpet - this will make it easier to pierce holes. And then, along this holey line, draw the outline of the armholes with a marker (the armholes are the hole for the arms).

And now on top of these T-shirt outlines we will draw our pattern .

The contours of the drawn T-shirt will greatly facilitate the creation of the pattern. They will help us depict the proportional silhouette of the dress, where we do not need to calculate the length of the shoulder, the width under the bust, the length of the armhole (the armhole is a hole for the arm) - all this will already be on the drawn T-shirt. We look at the picture above. We outlined the T-shirt (Fig. 1), and drew a dress along the contour of the T-shirt (Fig. 2).

Please note 3 points:

1. The shoulders of the dress should be slightly sloping


2. the bottom of the dress is not a straight line, but rounded


3. the lateral lines from the armpits downwards slightly diverge to the sides (like a trapezoid)

There's another one here important note:

For those who doubt whether a pattern drawn in this way will suit your child, there is a simple tailoring way to check. This method will also allow you to draw any shape of armholes (arm holes) on your dress. The contours of the armhole and neckline do not have to be the same in shape as the T-shirt. You can choose any shape and depth of armholes and neckline. There is only 2 rules, subject to which the drawn pattern will ideally suit your child.

The dress has 2 important parameters that determine whether the dress will be true to size to your child. They are shown in the picture below:

1st parameter is the width of the dress along the axillary line (value A)

The 2nd parameter is the size of the armhole from the axillary line to the shoulder (value B)

To do this, you only need to take one measurement - half-circumference of baby's chest - take a centimeter and wrap it around the chest at its most convex part and remember the number (this will be the value girth chest), and now divide this figure by 2 (this will be the value half-girth chest).

Now look at the picture - it says how to calculate quantities A and B

For example, girth breasts of my two-year-old daughter (height 85 cm, weight 11 kg) - 50 cm. So to get half girth- Divide 50 in half = 25 cm.

Dimension A = 25 cm + 6 cm = 31 cm.

That is, the dress I drew should have a width from armpit to armpit of 31 cm. Then it will be true to size - it will not be tight - since these additional 6 cm are added precisely for the loose fit of the dress.

And if you want a dress to grow a little, then add not 6 cm, but 7-8 cm. Size B = 25 cm: 4 + 7 = 6 cm2 mm + 7 = 13 cm2 mm(these millimeters can be safely ignored). That is, if the height of the drawn armhole is 13 cm, this armhole will be perfect for my baby.

That's all, following these 2 simple rules, we will always have a dress pattern that is the right size for our baby. And no complicated drawings.

So, we drew the outlines of our future dress. Now make seam allowances- we stepped back 2 cm from the contours of the dress and drew it again with a thick, bright marker (Fig. 3 in the first diagram). These will be the final contours of the dress with allowances for the side and shoulder seams, at the bottom an allowance for the hem and an allowance for finishing the armholes and neckline.

(By the way, there are tailoring standards here: an allowance of 1.5-2 cm for the side and shoulder seams, 1-1.5 cm for the armhole and neckline, 4-6 cm for the hem). But I’m just looking at the fabric - if it frays a lot on the cut, then it’s better to make a larger allowance, otherwise while you’re sewing and trying on, half of the allowance will turn into fringe.

And also, when you draw a dress, don’t be upset if yours is a little crooked- one shoulder is more sloped than the other or the left armhole is not the same shape as the right. This is not important, since we will transfer to fabric only one half drawn pattern (left or right - whichever one came out more beautiful) - and when cutting, the dress detail will turn out to be absolutely symmetrical.

Now you will understand everything...

Divide the pattern in half to get one shelf.

In order for the dress part to end up symmetrical (that is, the left and right sides of the part are the same), we only need one half of the resulting pattern.

To do this, fold the cut out pattern in half - approximately shoulder to shoulder, armpit to armpit (approximately, because if you drew it crookedly, then the shoulders and armpits of the left and right halves may not completely coincide when folded).

Added and received fold line(Fig. 2), which runs right through the middle of the dress, and along this line you need to cut the pattern in order to end up with only one half of it (the shelf - as tailors call it - left or right, whichever you have is more beautiful and even) - Fig. 3.

The pattern is ready. It would seem that everything is simple, and so it is.

We transfer the pattern to fabric and sew.

We have in our hands a pattern for one shelf (left or right) and now we need to transfer it to fabric and cut out the detail of the back and dress.

The resulting shelf pattern was first placed on one side of the fabric - circled with chalk (Fig. 4), then turned over in a mirror with the other side (moving the central midline of the shelf to a similar line just drawn in chalk) (Fig. 5) - and also outlined. And the result is an absolutely symmetrical finished part of the front or back of the future dress.

By the way, if you don’t have a chalk, you can use a colored pencil or sharpen a regular piece of soap with a knife (light soap draws well on colored fabric); it’s great to draw on white fabric with children’s colored wax crayons.

We cut out exactly the same part for the back. Yes, many dresses (especially summer ones) have exactly the same front and back details. But you can draw a back pattern that is different from the front pattern, it will take you 2 minutes. Read below

Note “back pattern and its differences”

Usually, classic pattern of the front and back of the product differ from each other in the depth of the neckline and armholes(armholes are holes for the arms).

As you can see in the picture above, the armholes and front neckline are more curved inward, that is, deeper (blue outline), and at the back they are less deep(red outline).

And if you look at the photographs of the dresses at the beginning of the article, you will notice the difference in the neckline and armholes of the front and back.

Having examined many ready-made children's dresses in the store, I came to the conclusion that few dresses have a difference in the cut of the back and front armholes. That is, the armholes of the back and front coincide for the most part sleeveless dresses. And dresses with sleeves The back armholes are less deep than the front armholes - as in our diagram above). As a rule, there is a difference in the depth of the neck, but not always.

Conclusion:

For children's summer dresses without sleeves, identical armholes and identical necklines at the front and back are absolutely acceptable.

for children's dresses with sleeves, we make the back armholes less deep.

You are your own creators and artists of the future dress. As you draw, so it will be - in any case, you will get a beautiful dress, don’t worry.

Sew the front and back together.

Now (Fig. 6) we place both parts on top of each other with the front sides inward and manually connect the side and shoulder seams with coarse stitches.

We try it on and, if everything is good, we sew these seams on a machine, after which we pull out this rough thread (for those who do not have a machine, you can simply go to a clothing repair center or an atelier; sewing a couple of seams will cost you $1).

We bend the edge of the hem and either sew it on a machine or hand-baste it with hidden stitches (ask your mother or grandmother - she will show you how).

Now you need tidy up the neckline and armholes(Fig. 7). You can simply fold the edges inward and stitch. Or you can buy braid or bias tape and work it around the neckline - this is done in most children's dresses.

That's it, our DIY children's dress is ready.

You can decorate it with flounces, applique, embroidery, ribbons, bows. All this is detailed in the following parts of the article.

You can sew sleeves to a dress; for this, read the series of articles - all conceivable and inconceivable sleeves for children's clothing are collected there, and it tells you how to sew them yourself.

If the neck of your dress is not wide enough for a child’s head to fit through, then the dress can have a fastener - in my separate article I collected together all the existing fasteners on children’s clothing and told in detail in pictures how to make them yourself.

Our pattern today will serve us template when creating all subsequent models of children's dresses - and there will be many of them - all are different and one is more beautiful than the other.

And you will no longer need to draw a pattern. You will only sew and enjoy the fast and easy process and beautiful results.

And under your dress you can quickly and easily

Every time we model a new dress based on a template pattern, we will have to make some notes on it; this should not be done on the template (otherwise, it will soon be full of marks from different models, and you will be confused in finding the mark you need ). Just copy the template - that is, put it on a sheet of wallpaper and trace it - and draw what you need on this freshly received pattern. Modify the pattern by shortening it or marking the ruffle sewing lines as on the dress in this article. Now you will see and understand everything.

This is the children's dress we will sew today. Somehow I found this photo in the depths of the Internet and I really liked this, charming in its simplicity, delicate dress with lush ruffles and a flirty bow on the shoulder. I wish I could sew something like this then, but at that time I still had a vague idea of ​​how it was sewn. But today I know how to make it and I will teach you.

It's quick and easy. We just need ours pattern template from the first part of the article (link to the article above) and a pencil.

Model 1. Dress with 3 flounces.

We make notes on the pattern.

We take a ready-made pattern from the first part of the article (see link to the article above) and on this pattern-template draw the lines, to which we will sew flounces (Fig. 1). We do not draw straight lines, but slightly rounded ones, like the bottom line of the template pattern (the lower edge of the hem).

We sew a base dress.

First, using the template pattern (Fig. 1), we cut out the back and front parts from the fabric and sewed the side and shoulder seams. We processed the neckline and armholes, folded the bottom of the hem, that is, we formed the base to which we will sew the flounces. We have already described all the details of how to sew a base dress in a previous article.

We make shuttlecocks.

We cut strips of fabric to the length and width we need (Fig. 2). Length stripes - at your discretion, the longer the flounce, the thicker the folds will be when sewing it on (cut off the excess). The top shuttle will be shorter, the middle one will be longer, and the bottom one will be the longest. We prepared 3 flounces, processed their edges, folded them and stitched them (Fig. 2)

Width there should be enough flounces so that the top flounce covers the seam of the lower flounce - that is, 3-5 cm more than the distance between the marked lines on the pattern (+ a centimeter for the bend of the upper and lower edges - the edges of the flounce must be processed before sewing them on).

Sew flounces to the dress.

Now on this finished dress we have drawn the same lines in chalk as on the pattern - ruffle sewing lines(Fig. 1). Now we take the top flounce and sew it manually to the dress along the chalk line, starting from the side seam and around the entire dress. When sewing, we make uniform pleats.

Then we sew the remaining 2 flounces in the same way.

And that's it - our children's dress is almost ready. Now, if you wish, you can buy a piece of a regular bow or ribbon and sew one strip to the armholes of the back and front (armholes are holes for the arms), and tie them on the girl’s shoulder with a neat bow - see the photo at the beginning of the article.

As you can see in the photo, the flounces for the dress can be cut from fabric of different colors. You can make a bright rainbow.

Or smooth transition of different shades of the same color scheme, - that is, the bodice of the dress is light pink, the first flounce is deep pink, the second flounce is dark pink, the third flounce is closer to cherry blossom (Fig. 2).

Or do black and white classics: bodice black, first flounce white, second flounce black, bottom flounce white (Fig. 1).

Or elegant black and white version: black bodice, white flounces, and sew black lace along the edge of each white flounce. You can do the opposite, the flounces are black, the lace is white and the same lace is sewn around the neckline and armholes.

If your dress needs a fastener (in the case when the child’s head does not fit into the neck), then in the article you can choose any type of fastener for your two-layer dress, or do it easier, widen the neck.

In short, imagine, create! Based on this model you can get such different dresses.

Happy sewing!

So... Here is our future baby dress.

Model 2. Dress with a fluffy hem.

The upper part of the dress is sewn according to our template pattern. And the underskirt (incomprehensible and complicated at first glance) is actually made very, very simply, but looks cute and original. Such skirts with full hem entered youth fashion around 2003 and were very popular among girls. Now this element can still be found on modern models for adults and on children's clothing. So let's get started...

Bodice pattern This dress is a shortened template pattern. We take the pattern template - make a copy of it (so as not to spoil the template itself) and shorten this new copy pattern to the level we need. That is, the level where our hem will begin - it can be at the waist level, or at the hip level - as you wish. Please note that the cut line is not straight but slightly rounded. See the diagram below:

Transfer the pattern to fabric and sew the bodice

Transfer the resulting pattern to fabric, we get the detail of the front and back (the pattern of the front and back can be absolutely the same or differ in the depth of the neck - see).

Immediately sew the back and front, We placed the parts on top of each other with the right sides inward and first sewed the side and shoulder seams by hand, and then stitched them on a machine. If you don’t have a machine, go to a tailor’s shop or a clothing repair shop - they’ll quickly sew these seams for you for a little money.

You can immediately process the edges of the armholes and neckline - simply fold the edges and stitch them, or process them with piping.

Calculate the dimensions of the hem.

In order not to make a mistake with the hem length, it is best to put the finished bodice of the dress on the child and measure the desired hem length directly on it. Place a tape measure at the bottom edge of the bodice and measure down to the desired hem level. The dress can simply cover the butt or be below the knee - it's up to your taste.

Now you need to cut a piece of fabric for the hem. His length should be twice the size of the measurement we just made. Since the hem will fold in half during the sewing process (Fig. 5, 6). + a couple of centimeters will be spent on bending the cut edge. Also keep in mind that the hem will rise slightly due to the pomp.

For example, you want a hem to the middle of the knee, put the top part of a half-finished dress on the child and measure with a centimeter from the edge of the dress to the knee. It turned out to be 20 cm. This means that the length of the hem rectangle (Fig. 3) will be twice as large - 40 + 3 cm for the fold of the edge + 3-5 cm for the pomp = 46-48 cm. This is the height we draw the hem rectangle.

Hem width arbitrary, that is, also at your discretion. The wider the rectangle you cut for the hem, the more pleats you will make when you sew the hem to the bodice.

The hem can be cut in one piece - half the cut for the back, half for the front. Then you will have only one side seam on the hem. Or cut 2 pieces separately for the front and separately for the back - as your piece of fabric allows.

Sew the hem to the bodice.

Now you need to sew the hem to the bodice. Please note that we sew the hem with the wrong side up (!), then when we fold it in half (Fig. 5, 6), it will turn right side out.

The most important thing is to sew the hem evenly to the bodice, because it will be ugly if there are more folds and tucks on the left than on the right.

So that the folds are distributed evenly along the sewing line » , you need to make small strokes on the lower edge of the bodice to mark the middle of the bodice, and also mark the middle of the hem with a stroke (Fig. A). And immediately pin the middle of the hem to the middle of the bodice with a pin. This pin will sort of divide the hem into 2 parts. Well, also pin the corners of the hem to the side seams of the bodice (Fig. B).

Now again make strokes in the middle of the left half of the hem and the right half, mark similar strokes on the bodice (Fig. B). And also connect them with a pin.

Now we thread the needle and sew on the hem by hand, forming pleats and tucks and removing the pins as we go. We sewed it on by hand - now we put it under the machine and stitched it (Fig. 4).

Now we will sew the lower raised edge to the same line hem (Fig. 5, 6). To do this, the bottom edge must first be processed (fold 1-2 cm to the wrong side and stitch). And we must also this already processed edge evenly sew to the bodice. That is, also use strokes and pins.

Done, the hem is sewn (Fig. 7)

Dress decoration

And hem sewing line You can also hide it under braid or satin ribbon and sew on a flirty bow (Fig. 8).

DIY children's dress - ready.

If your dress needs a fastener (front, back or on the shoulder, with buttons or with a zipper), then you will find all the variety of fasteners with detailed explanations and step-by-step pictures in the article .

We will consider the option when, based on our solid pattern, a dress is sewn from pieces of different fabrics, as, for example, in these dresses:

As with all dresses based on a template pattern, we first make a copy of the template - put the template on a sheet of wallpaper and trace it along the outline.

Now you can make marks on this new pattern, you can cut it into pieces, which is what we are going to do. See picture below

So, Model 1. Dress “animal in ambush”

We modify the pattern template.

On the pattern draw a line dividing the dress into 2 parts white and pink (can be a curved line, or a straight line - how you draw it will be). By the way, if you want to draw a smooth curved line (and you don’t have a compass in the house), just find a round-shaped plate or dish, make marks on the side edges of the pattern, place the dish close to these marks and trace along the edge of the dish with a pencil - you’ll get a perfect rounded line.

Along this line cut the pattern into 2 parts, and mark along the cut edge what needs to be added seam allowance. That is, when you place the pattern on the fabric and trace it, add 2 cm along the cut line. Other seam allowances are not needed - we already made them when we created this template - see .

So we got the pattern for the bodice (the white part of the dress) and the hem (the pink part). Now you need to make another copy of the bodice pattern (see figure above) and on this copy draw the outline of the animal’s head and cut it out. This one is ours third pattern.

A note about the clasp. If our template pattern has a wide enough neckline and the child’s head fits freely into the dress, then the fastener (which we see in the photo at the beginning of the article - 2 buttons on the shoulder) is essentially not needed. But if this is not the case, then there are 2 solutions: either increase the neckline on the pattern, or provide a clasp for the dress. Read more about how to make this (and not only this) clasp in our special article . If you don’t like this clasp, you can insert any other one described in this article (for the first 3 clasps from the article you do not need to make changes to the pattern at all) - choose what is easier for you.

We transfer the pattern onto the fabric and sew the parts together.

That's it, now you can take fabric, white and pink, and transfer our 3 patterns onto it(don’t forget to make a seam allowance on the side of the cut connecting the top and bottom of the dress - the rest of the allowances are already contained in the template itself). The back of the dress can also contain the face of an animal or simply consist of two halves, white and pink.

Details cut out of fabric(Fig. 1, 2, 3). We immediately place our pink animal’s face on the white bodice - place it strictly in the center and pin it with pins (so that it does not move), hand-baste it with large stitches (Fig. 4). And now you can take out the pins and sew them on a machine (if you don’t have a machine, go to the studio - in a couple of minutes and a little money they will do all the seams for you).

Now we connect the top and bottom the front of the dress (Fig. 5), do the same with the back. Then we place the finished back and front on top of each other with the right sides inward and sew the side and shoulder seams (Fig. 6)

Now the final chord - decoration(Fig. 7), take pink braid (or another contrasting color) and hide our seams with this braid. From it we form the ears of the animal. To make it smoother, it is better to first baste the braid by hand (burn the ends of the braid with a lighter so that they do not unravel), and when everything is smooth and beautiful, stitch it on a machine.

The same braid can be used to trim the armholes and neckline, or you can simply fold the edges of the armholes inward and stitch them.

Making a nose and eyes for the animal, you can use regular buttons, or buy special eyes for toys in the button department of the store.

That's it, your DIY baby dress is ready.

Based on the same pattern, you can create other designer dresses.. Let's play designer.

For example, I was born "dress with the sun" idea(Fig. 8). The rays must be sewn onto the bodice immediately - let the ribbons diverge from the central lower point of the bodice and in all directions like rays. Bend the ends of the rays behind the armholes and neckline. And then sew our semicircle (disk of the sun) on top of the rays.

Or a more complex and painstaking applique, where a semicircle turns into a hole of some animal, and then flowers and berries. I chose a hare and a carrot (Fig. 9). I will definitely tell and show how to make appliqués on fabric in one of my future articles.

If you want this dress to have a sleeve, then you will find everything you need in the article baby dress with buttons and straps , that is, a dress that opens at the shoulders (see photo below).

And we will create this dress based on the template pattern that we made in the first part of the article. As you can see, a template pattern is a valuable thing: you draw it once, and now we’re making the 4th dress model based on it.

This model of children's dress has at least 2 options:

1. dress with straps of static length

2. dress with straps that vary in length depending on what button they were fastened with.

Model 1. Dress with straps of static length.

Construction of a pattern.

The front pattern for this dress does not need to be changed (Fig. 1), - that is, our pattern-template will be the pattern for the front of the dress. And at the back pattern, lengthen the shoulder straps to the length we need; to do this, on a sheet of paper (or wallpaper) we make a copy of the template pattern and draw some kind of “ears” (see Fig. 2). In the classic version, the increase on the shoulders of the back (the length of the “ears”) will be 4-5 cm. All the patterns for the front and back are ready.

Now you can transfer these patterns onto fabric and cut out the front and back pieces.

Sealing the top of the dress

Since the straps of such a model must be dense, that is, two-layer, they must be cut from the same fabric shortened back and front doubles(Fig. 5, 6).

Pattern of duplicates It’s easy to get if you draw a rounded line on the front and back pattern 3-4 cm below the armpits. And cut along this line - the upper part of such a truncated pattern for the front and back will be the pattern for our sealing doubles.

Note. If you are sewing from thin, soft fabric, then for additional rigidity the doubles can be glued with non-woven fabric. You will need non-woven adhesive backing(sold in the same section of the store where the fabric is, cheap thin material with a hole, like gauze). Simply place a piece of non-woven fabric on the wrong side of the piece, with the adhesive surface to the fabric, and iron it with an iron. The interlining itself will stick to the part and give it density. And then trim off the excess interlining along the contour of the part. But if you sew from thick fabric (corduroy, denim), then you can do it without interlining. If you don’t find interlining on sale, you can also do it without interlining, no problem.

Sew duplicates to the back and front details

So, these shortened front and back doubles (Fig. 5, 6) now need to be sewn to the back and front pieces. To do this, fold the front double and the front piece together with right sides inward and stitch along the contour of the armholes, straps and neckline. But not along the contour of the side seams!(Fig. 7, - that is, the line goes from the armpit up, along the straps, and to the other armpit.

Now turn the right side out and stitch again along the front surface, following the stitch along the same path - along the edge of the armholes, straps, neckline. As a result of this simple operation, we obtain processed edges of the armholes, straps and neckline. We do the same with the back parts.

As a result, we get a front part with a two-layer upper part, and a back part also with a two-layer upper part. Both the straps and armholes were automatically processed.

Sew the side seams.

We place the front piece on top of the back piece with the right sides facing each other (that is, inward), and the duplicated sides outward. And we sew the side seams.

Moreover, separately (from the armpit to the bottom of the hem) we sew the back and front parts to each other, without catching the fabric of the double (!). And then we separately connect the duplicates themselves with side seams. (see Fig. 9 - the seam for the front and back is shown in dark green, it hides under the double and goes all the way to the armhole. It is difficult to reach there with a machine, so when removing the dress from under the machine, leave long threads from the bobbin and needle and finish it by hand line under the double. The light green dotted line shows the seam connecting the sides of the front and back doubles, it is short and would probably be inconvenient to get into with a machine, so I sewed it by hand.)

So that the duplicate lining does not turn outward when putting on and taking off the dress, you can hand stitch the bottom edges of the side seams of the doubles to the side seams of the dress itself.

There's nothing left fold the hem. Fold and stitch, or fold and manually baste with hidden invisible stitches (ask your mother or grandmother, they have done this more than once, they will show you).

You also need to sew buttons on the front parts and make slits on the back straps and process them in the studio or by hand (using embroidery threads will make it faster and smoother)

That's it, our first DIY children's dress is ready.

Model 2. Dress with adjustable straps.

If you want the dress to “grow” with the child, then you can make the straps with extra length and, by altering the button as the child grows, “increase” the size of the dress.

Then you need to round off the shoulders of the front pattern (Fig. 1), and draw longer “ears” for the back pattern (Fig. 2).

And here you need, on the contrary (unlike the previous model): buttons sew on on the straps, A slots do it for them on the front details.

And since the child grows not only in length, but also in width, so that the dress does not become narrow over time, make it wider in advance. If you remember, the optimal width of the dress from armpit to armpit should be equal to the half-circumference of the chest + 6 cm for a loose fit. So, in our case, you can add not 6 cm, but 10 cm, for example, to the loose fit.

This dress is sewn exactly the same as the previous one. We also cut and sew duplicates. The same features apply to sewing side seams.

As you can see, a children's dress with buttons on the straps is very easy to sew with your own hands.

Today we will do the so-called double layer dress, that is, a children's dress, which will consist of two dresses - an upper and a lower one.

Here's how it is in this photo and in the pictures:

In the photo, the lower dress is pale turquoise and the upper one is in Scottish white, blue and blue check. The top dress, as you can see, can have any length and shape.

Well, let's get started.

Constructing a pattern based on a template.

Pattern of an underdress Our template will serve us.

We will draw the pattern of the outer dress on a copy of the template. As you remember, in order not to spoil the template, all changes in the patterns are different "template-based models" We do this not on the template itself, but on a copy of it.

On a copy of the template (Fig. 1) on the middle line we select the length level of our outer dress. At this level, we draw a horizontal segment (Fig. 2), and the right and left ends of the segment should be equidistant from the midline so that the fronts of our outer dress are the same. Although we don’t have to strive for similarity of the shelves, since for the pattern we only need one half of the outer dress - first we will put it on the fabric with one side and trace it, then turn it over with the other side and trace it again on the fabric, so we will get 2 shelves, the right one and (its mirror reflection) left (Fig. 4).

Back of the outer dress is a template pattern, shortened to the same level (Fig. 4)

We transfer the patterns to fabric and sew 2 dresses, a lower and an upper one.

We transfer the template 2 times to the fabric - we get the back and front of the underdress. We place them on top of each other with the right sides inward and sew the side and shoulder seams (Fig. 5). You can immediately process the lower edge of the hem (fold the edge and stitch or baste it by hand with blind stitches). Our underdress is ready.

We transfer the pattern of the back and two shelves of the outer dress onto the fabric. We place the resulting parts of the shelves on the back part with the right side inward and sew the side and shoulder seams (Fig. 6). We also process the lower edge of the hem and the inner (central) edges of the shelves (fold and stitch). Our outer dress is ready.

We sew the lower and upper dress together.

Now all we have to do is sew both finished dresses to each other. See diagram below. To do this, we put the upper dress on the lower one - put it on with the right sides up - the way it will be worn.

And sweep them away together by hand with large stitches in the area of ​​the neck and armholes (Fig. 1). That is, the lower and upper dresses will be connected only in these places.

There are 2 options heresewing and processing the edges of the neckline and armholes.

Option one- connect dresses put on each other manually with a seam along the line of the armholes and neckline. If everything turned out smoothly, stitch it on a typewriter. Then we simply bend the edges of the armholes and necks of both dresses back, behind the underside of the lower dress - we folded them a centimeter at a time, threaded them into a needle and sewed them on by hand. Now sew on the machines 2 times: at the very edge of the fold and further 1 cm from the edge. Plus This option is faster. Minus- the result is less aesthetically pleasing than the next factory option.

Option two- it is more neat, since all the seams will be hidden between the lower and upper dress.

To do this, a hand seam, with which we sew the lower dress to the upper one in the neckline and armholes, needs to be done, stepping back from the edge of the armholes and neckline 2-3 cm deep. This indentation is needed so that we can fold the edges of the armholes and neck of the lower dress separately, and fold the edges of the armholes and neck of the upper dress separately (see picture below).

And the connecting running stitch will help us not to make the fold on the lower dress smaller than the fold on the upper one (so that the folds on both dresses are the same size). Then the lower dress will not look unattractively from under the upper one in the neckline and armhole area.

As you can see in this diagram, after we manually basted one dress to another, retreating 2-3 cm to the hem (Fig. 1), we got the edge of the top dress that can be bent (Fig. 2, 3) and processed separately from the bottom fold the edges (Fig. 4) and stitch the fold (Fig. 5). The same goes for the edges of the lower dress - fold it over (Fig. 4) and stitch the fold (Fig. 5).

That is, we bend the edge of the lower dress to the front side and baste it. We bend the edge of the outer dress to the wrong side and baste it.

We received 2 separately processed edges - the edge of the upper dress (pink with white dotted stitching) and the edge of the lower dress (blue with white dotted stitching) - Fig. 5.

And now you need to again attach these already processed edges of the upper and lower dresses to each other and stitch them to each other (Fig. 6) - you get a neat armhole, where all the edges are hidden inside between the dresses. All that remains is to remove all the rough threads that we used to manually baste the dresses and from the edges.

Using the same principle, we process the neckline and other armholes.

That's it, our two-layer DIY children's dress is ready.

With this dress, if you use your imagination, you can find more many design options. Here's what I suggest:

Model 1. Lush underdress + thick outer dress with rounded fronts.

Everything here is probably clear from the picture.

At the pattern of the outer dress make the shelves rounded.

And the pattern for the underdress we will get if we make changes to the pattern. You just need to expand the template, starting from the armpits. See diagram below:

In order for the resulting hem to be even (both in front and on the sides), you must follow the rule a=b, that is the height of the hem in the center (b) should be equal to the height of the hem on the sides (a). Therefore, we measured the height of the hem of the template (b), then measured exactly the same length on both sides and connected everything with a rounded smooth line.

By the way, you can also sew just one-piece fluffy dresses this way.

And if you don’t like the tight and narrow top of this model, then you can make the top dress the same way, extended template. Then the outer cape will be as fluffy as the dress. The next model is designed in a similar way.

Model 2. Thick underdress + light transparent outer dress.

Here principle of cutting an outer dress a bit similar to the principle of cutting an underdress previous model, everything also expands to the sides.

And the underdress is cut simply according to the template. Opaque bottom and airy top, and a matching rose at the throat. Beautiful, I think.

You can also dream up and come up with a bunch of options, well, that’s up to you.

If your dress needs a fastener (in the case when the child’s head does not fit into the neckline), then in the article you can choose any type of fastener for your two-layer dress, or do it easier, expand the neckline on the pattern in advance.

Or if you want to attach a cute puff sleeve or wing sleeve to your dress, then you will find all the information in the article

Hello again, dear mothers. Today we will sew baby dress with straps. On the agenda, so to speak, is the following:

1. Creating a pattern

2. Sewing a dress

3. Forming and sewing straps

4. Tie straps

5. Adjustable strap

So let's get started...

Creating a pattern.

The pattern for this children's dress can be created based on the template pattern that we created in the first part of our series of articles

We make a copy of the template and draw the outlines of our future dress on it (see diagram below). Here you can show your imagination and draw as you like. As you draw, such a dress will be. You can simply draw a straight line on the template (Fig. 3), or draw a rounded neckline (Fig. 2)

And if you have not yet created a template, then you can take a child’s T-shirt as a basis for the pattern, put it on a sheet of wallpaper, trace it along the contour, and then draw our pattern using such a “template” (Fig. 5) (Fig. 6, 7, 8) .

For this baby dress, the same pattern can be used for both the front and back. Or, if you want, you can make the front with a round neckline (Fig. 2, 7, 8), and the back simply in a straight line (Fig. 3) - as is often the case in women’s adult dresses.

Transfer the pattern to fabric.

It’s absolutely not scary if the hand-drawn dress turns out to be not entirely symmetrical (that is, the right side is not the same as the left). Since to transfer the pattern onto the fabric (Fig. 5, 6 in the diagram below), we will use only one half of it (Fig. 2, 3, 4), right or left (whichever turned out better for you) and as a result the dress part ( back or front) will in any case be symmetrical.

So, we cut off the right or left part of the resulting pattern (Fig. 2), put the resulting shelf on one side of the fabric and outlined it with chalk (Fig. 5), then turned it over in a mirror and outlined it again (Fig. 6). We received the front part. Now do the same thing again - to get the back part.

Sew the details of the dress.

Now (see diagram below) we placed the back and front parts on top of each other with the right sides inward and sewed the side seams (Fig. 8).

Then the edges of the armholes and neckline were processed - folded and stitched (Fig. 9)

Now we sew on the straps. You can just have one regular strap on the shoulder, or you can come up with an interesting overlap of several straps (Fig. 10, 11,12)

How to sew a strap.

You can use finishing piping as straps (sold in fabric departments or in sewing accessories departments). For those who do not know what piping is, it is a strip of fabric folded at the edges (in the picture below we see it under the number 3). But often the straps are made of wear-resistant synthetic materials, and for a child it is better to have a strap made of “hebeshechka”. Therefore, if you haven’t found anything suitable among the edgings, we’ll make a strap yourself

With the onset of summer and rising temperatures, we more and more want to dress in such a way that we feel comfortable and cozy, so that the clothes are light and weightless, and the most suitable clothes in this case will be tailored DIY summer sundress.

In ancient times, this beautiful outfit was made from different types of fabric and varied in cut and by what color and style it was, one could find out about the girl’s mood and her social status.

Today there are many styles of this wonderful and comfortable garment, but those that are sewn by hand are especially original and beautiful. Sewing a sundress, in contrast, is not at all difficult; the main thing is to choose a style that suits your figure, find its pattern and read the sewing instructions.

Below we have collected several original models for you, perhaps you will like something especially among them.

How sew a summer sundress with your own hands girl

We invite you to sew an outfit for a young fashionista of about five years old; this wonderful outfit for your daughter will not only be comfortable, but also beautiful.

At the first stage, you need to decide on the choice of material from which the product will be made. We recommend using lightweight natural fabrics such as linen, cotton or satin to sew such summer outfits. The color of the piece of fabric can be any color; a sundress with polka dots or flowers will look very beautiful. We also recommend that you be careful when selecting threads for sewing, because if they differ in colors from the material, it will look ugly.

The style of the sundress that we present to you is simple - it will have straps with a small frill at the bottom. First, we prepare a pattern from paper or cut the sundress directly on a small piece of fabric prepared in advance. Please note that if you make a pattern directly on the material, you must leave allowances in those places where there will be a seam.

Description of work.

1. First, measure the length, extend a centimeter from the upper edge of the chest to the bottom of the skirt, and add fifteen centimeters for the frill; its length is usually twice as wide as the bottom of the sundress.

2. Now measure the width of the chest, divide the resulting centimeters into four parts, add a couple of centimeters to each part, the result of the calculations will determine the width of the shelf along the chest line on the pattern. In this case, the height of the breast should be ten centimeters, and the armhole circumference of the back shelf should be more flat than on the front.

3. After all the above operations, you should end up with exactly seven parts:

Back facing at top;

Facing the front shelf from above;

Straps;

4. First, prepare the straps, so that they do not put pressure on your princess, we recommend using ribbons with an elastic texture to make them. Fold each strap in half lengthwise, right side inward, and stitch. Then you need to turn the straps out and iron them properly.

6. Determine the places for the straps on the shelves, correctly calculate their length, and then baste them.

7. Now you need to sew the facing on the front and back inside with the front side, its seam will also help to hold the straps tighter. Then sew the facing on the sides.

8. Turn the facing inside out, iron it thoroughly and set it aside. Measure three centimeters from the edge and stitch, this seam will help secure the facing at the bottom.

9. Carefully and carefully process the bottom of the sundress using a special hem stitch.

10. The final touch of our product will be sewing on the frill, stitch it along the side edges, then gather it at the top and sew it onto the bottom edge of the sundress, also sew the bottom of the frill with a hem seam.

Children's DIY summer sundress - photo:

That's all, very easily, simply and quickly we put together an outfit for the little beauty. You can also decorate the finished outfit with various appliqués, rhinestones, embroideries, or simply sew fancy-shaped patch pockets. By the way, this pattern can be used as a basis for creation.

We sew a summer sundress with our own hands for woman

This model is for lovers of floor-length lengths. The style of our outfit is very original, since its upper part reveals the shoulders and arms, and the lower part, on the contrary, hides the legs to the ground. Depending on the constitution of your body, choose the right type of material for sewing. We offer options such as linen, cotton or simple shirt material; for lovers of tight-fitting outfits, we suggest taking stretch with a light texture.

To work, we will need a piece of material with matching threads, scissors, pins, a needle, and an elastic thread.

DIY summer sundress pattern.

Description of work.

Please note that in order for the sundress to fit your figure perfectly, do not make mistakes when taking measurements. First, measure the widest part of your figure or try on any suitable item from your wardrobe and start cutting from this figure.

1. Fold the fabric in half along its entire length, the grain thread should be vertical, then, using the measurement taken in advance, measure the required size and add about twenty centimeters for the fold and a little more for the seam - about one and a half centimeters.

2. Before sewing the sundress, you need to assemble it, which will run in several rows along the top and waist. We mark the assembly by measuring the highest part of the chest and the height from the armpit to the base of the chest. Don't forget to also add a couple of centimeters for the seam allowance at the top.

3. Next, measure one centimeter from the top to the place where you plan to sew the elastic thread, then thread it into the bobbin and sew with a zigzag seam or a regular “straight” seam. Thanks to this assembly, the sundress will fit well on you even without straps.

4. Now you need to measure the size from the chest to the waist, the distance between the lines should be equal and can be from four to six centimeters. If you wish, you can raise the waist a little, then in this version of the outfit you will look slimmer.

5. The simplest thing left is to sew the sides of the sundress, tuck the bottom of the fabric so that it is about one centimeter from the floor and sew with a regular seam or a hem seam.

Sewing a summer sundress with your own hands for pregnant

This section of our article will be interesting for expectant mothers , For pregnant women, sewing something new for yourself will not be very difficult. A sundress is a very convenient item of clothing; it must be made of natural fabrics so that mother and baby feel comfortable and cozy. The style of the product can be different according to the choice of fashionistas: with straps, with ties or with an elastic band, long to the floor or short to the knee.

To sew such a summer outfit, you do not need to have any skills or knowledge about cutting and sewing; it is enough to be able to take measurements correctly and sew on a sewing machine. We will practically not be cutting here, there will be no complicated patterns or drawing with chalk on fabric, everything will be simple and, most importantly, fast.

So, we will need:

Cotton tank top;

The elastic band, the wider, the better;

A piece of fabric;

Threads to match;

Sewing machine.

Description of work.

By the way, the color of the product can be very diverse, adjust it to your taste, you can make everything one tone, or you can, for example, have a plain top and a bottom with flowers or polka dots, or vice versa.

1. Lay the T-shirt on a flat table surface, straighten it and measure the required length, adding three centimeters to it for the seam. Then carefully cut off the measured top of the T-shirt using sharp scissors.

2. Using a meter, take measurements under the bust, the main thing is not to tighten it too tightly, the sundress should be loose and not impede blood circulation - this is very important. Using the measurements taken, cut the elastic and sew its edges on a machine using a zigzag seam.

3. Now measure how many centimeters you have, it turns out, from the chest to the knees, transfer the result obtained to the fabric and cut off two straight panels.

4. Sew the edges of the material with a simple seam, then hem the hem by five centimeters.

5. Make a light basting along the top of the fabric, pulling the material up so that you get a slight gather. Having carefully arranged the folds, machine stitch the top of the skirt.

6. Sew an elastic band on the wrong side of the skirt using a “regular” seam, after which we attach the sarafan bodice to the upper part of the elastic using a “zigzag” seam.

We hope that you liked this interesting option for tailoring an outfit using practically improvised materials, and that you look original, stylish and impeccable in it, and most importantly, you feel comfortable and at ease.

How sew a summer sundress with your own hands simple

This option for selecting clothes guarantees you the uniqueness and originality of your item, and its price will be much lower than designer products purchased in stores, which is of little importance in our time.

For sewing, take thin and high-quality fabric, various decorative elements, such as beads, buttons, chains. You will also need sharp scissors, needles, thread and a sewing machine.

Description of work.

As in the previous sections, take your measurements first, paying attention to the prominent parts of your body, such as your chest and hips, leaving ten centimeters of fabric for seams.

1. Using your measurements, determine the size of the required material; if you want the sundress to be more airy, take more fabric. Fold it so that the front side is inward, using scissors, divide it into two halves.

2. Then, in turn, cut each of the halves evenly diagonally into triangles. Place the triangles in pairs with the right sides facing inward. Then sweep the central seams and side seams approximately to the beginning of the chest.

3. Now try on the workpiece and determine the height of the seams on the sides. If the workpiece fits you perfectly, then you can stitch it using a sewing machine. Please note that if you have a large bust size, you will need to make darts.

4. The remaining unsewn top of the material will be the straps, but first you need to turn them right side out, tie double knots on them and adjust the height of the armhole. If desired, the ties can be easily removed, and shoulder seams are made in their place.

5. The bottom of the sundress must be tucked and hemmed; you can also trim the corners and make the hem even.

6. The final touch is decoration; it can be done with the help of large beads, which are put on the ties or, as an option, the straps can be trimmed a little, and in their place, sew a chain and a button clasp.

So, your design work is ready, now you can put it on and go show off your skills and sense of taste to your friends, and the right shoes and accessories will further improve your appearance and add originality to your image.

Sundress for a 3-year-old girl.

We present another option for sewing a children's sundress for a three-year-old girl. Our outfit will be made of denim, namely from dad's or mom's old wide jeans. It’s easy to sew, since we’ll make the pattern based on your fashionista’s sleeveless summer dress, which suits her perfectly.

1. Cut the legs from the jeans and cut them so that you get a piece of material, then trace the dress with chalk or soap so that you get two separate parts, the front and back of the product.

3. From the remaining fabric, make two rectangles measuring 8 by 27 centimeters, then sew them on the wrong side, turn them right side out and sew the edges again with a zigzag seam. Now cut a square from the jeans - this will be a patch pocket that can be sewn either on the chest or on the side.

4. We sew the workpiece from the wrong side along the side seams, sew on the straps and pocket, and sew all the details of the finished outfit with a decorative seam of crimson or any other color for beauty. In the front part of the sundress at the top we make cuts for buttons, and sew some funny or glamorous buttons onto the straps. You can also sew a children's applique at the bottom of the finished outfit.

Thanks to this sewing of clothes, your child will be fashionable and comfortably dressed, and old things will not accumulate in the house. This sundress can be worn with a T-shirt in the summer, or when it’s cooler - with a golf shirt or a sweater. You can find what else you can sew on our website.

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A sundress is comfortable clothing in the summer. Especially if the clothes are made from light fabrics, then the sundress will become indispensable on hot days! If you sew a sundress from dense material, then you can wear it both in autumn and spring. You can wear a turtleneck or T-shirt underneath, depending on the weather conditions. A sundress made of thick fabric will warm a girl in winter and will not hinder the child’s movements.

Let's look at 5 options for sundresses for girls.

Summer sundress with straps. These clothes are ideal for a child aged 2-5 years. You will need a small amount of fabric, and it is better to purchase satin, linen or cotton. Choosing colors is not a problem. Before you start creating a pattern, you need to calculate the length of the cut. Measure the future length of the sundress from the top of the neck to the bottom of the skirt, and then add 15 centimeters for allowances and facings. If everything is correct, you will get the desired length that you will need for sewing clothes. You can sew a sundress with a frill at the bottom, or without, it’s a matter of taste. In order to correctly draw up a pattern for the future product, you will need to use the diagram below as a sample. Measure the length of the sundress and the width of the chest. If you are sewing clothes with a flounce, then shorten the length of the pattern by the expected width of the flounce. Divide the width of the chest into 4 segments, and then add 2-3 centimeters. Let's get the desired width of the shelf pattern along the chest line. Set aside 8-10 centimeters for chest height. The front and back shelves are almost identical, the only difference being the armhole circumference. On the back it is flatter than on the front. Draw a pattern on paper, cut it out and start cutting. Don't forget the seam allowances!

The end result should look like this:

Back 1 pattern;

Front part 1 pattern;

Straps 2 patterns;

Shuttlecock 1-2 patterns;

Top facing 1 pattern;

Facing the front shelf (top) 1 pattern.

So, to sew a beautiful sundress, you need to do the following:

Fold the strap inward and stitch.

Turn the straps inside out and iron them.

You can use ribbon or elastic to create straps. Fold the back over the front, right side facing in, and stitch the side seams.

Baste the straps to the shelves, adjust the length.

Place the facing along the upper edge of the front shelf and the back one, the front side should be inside. Secure the straps and parts with a seam.

Sew the side seams of the facing.

Iron and stitch the edge of the facing turned inside out.

Place a stitch 2-3 centimeters from the edge, which will secure the facing along the bottom.

Finish the bottom with a seam.

If you are sewing a sundress with flounces, then sew the side sections of the flounces, finish the bottom edge with a seam, and gather the top edge and sew it to the bottom edge of the product.

The sundress is ready! Let your daughter wear it with pleasure!

Additionally, you can decorate it with various accessories and appliques.

2) Summer sundress without using a pattern.

The model is easier to sew than the previous one. You can do it, even if you've never picked up a needle before. The work will take approximately 20 minutes, and your beloved daughter will have new clothes. A sundress can be sewn from different fabrics; a plain fabric with a bright print is also suitable.

For sewing you will need:

A small piece of fabric that can be used to wrap your daughter.

1.5 - 2 meters of tape for straps.

The sundress itself consists of 2 parts that are exactly the same: front and back. Clothing should be loose and not interfere with the child's movement, so the width of each part should be 10-15 centimeters larger than half the circumference of your baby's hips. The sundress will turn out flared.

Let's start with the pattern of cutting the sundress:

Fold the fabric right side inward, mark the length and width of the future sundress, and draw armholes.

Cut out 2 parts of the back and front, and do not forget about the seam allowances. No tape for straps? Then make straps from fabric.

Fold the edges of the armhole under and stitch.

Sew the side seams.

Tuck the bottom of the sundress and stitch it. You can, if desired, add a flounce, braid, and so on. Fold up the neck and make a drawstring.

Thread the ribbon through the drawstring and tie a bow.

For older girls, you can sew the same sundress, but you need to cut it diagonally.

3) Sundress for girls with “wings”.

Instead of straps, the product has lace wings attached.

For sewing you will need:

Cotton fabric.

Lace “Sewing” - 50 centimeters.

To sew a sundress you will need:

Measure the length of the sundress and make 2 patterns for the front and back. Don't forget about seam allowances, bottom trim and drawstrings.

Fold the shelves right side inward and sew the side seams.

Sew the lace to the front and back. Check the diagram. Finish the edges of the armhole with a hem stitch and topstitch.

Fold the edge of the neck so that you can insert an elastic band. Finish the bottom of the sundress; you can sew on ruffles or flounces for beauty.

The outfit is ready! You have created a summer lace dress for your beloved daughter. You can decorate the product with ribbon bows.

4) Flared summer sundress.

Just sew a children's sundress with a detachable skirt.

You will need the following materials:

Summer light fabric, about 60-70 centimeters. It all depends on the age of the girl and the length of the product.

Threads, braid.

In order to sew a sundress you will need:

Take all measurements from the child and mark the pattern. The scheme is very simple, so you can work directly on the fabric. You can use the diagram below.

Finish the edges of all parts.

Sew the back seam on the skirt and front.

Fold the front and skirt with the front parts inward, and stitch along the waistline.

Gather the skirt a little as you go. Fold the bottom edge of the skirt and sew a seam. Finish the top edge with a hem stitch.

Choose a place for the straps and stitch them. If you wish, YOU can decorate the product with pockets, openwork appliqué or a belt.

The sundress is ready, and your daughter can wear the new thing with pleasure.

5) Double-sided sundress for girls. At first, it may seem that sewing a double-sided sundress is much more difficult than a regular one, but this is a misconception. Simplicity and speed are the main advantages of the product!

For sewing you will need the following materials:

Threads that match the fabric.

Two fabrics, 80 centimeters each.

One side can be sewn from thin denim, and the other from cotton.

In order to sew a sundress you need to do the following:

Transfer the pattern to paper and cut out the parts.

Cover the front and back sides of the sundress from fabrics A and B. You will get 4 parts.

Open your pockets. Process the sections together with the hem of the sundress. Use an overlock stitch or a zigzag stitch.

Sew the pockets onto the pattern from fabric A.

From fabric A, fold the front and back pieces right sides together. Stitch the seams.

From fabric B, fold the front and back parts with the front parts facing inward. Stitch the seams.

Fold the parts of the sundress with the front parts inward so that they are adjacent to each other, and sew the seams along the armhole, straps and neckline.

Notch the neck seam allowance in several places.

Turn the double sundress inside out and iron all edges.

Topstitch along the straps, armhole and neckline.

Hem the hem of the sundress. You can decorate the product with appliqués, ribbons or a belt, it is at your discretion.

So, to sew this sundress I used
- thin knitted jersey “strawberry” - it’s difficult for me to count the quantity, because... flaps and trimmings were used, well, approximately 0.4-0.45 m (150 width) will be required for a height of 92-96, if you buy a new one in a store,
- satin red ribbon 12mm wide (it took about 7m), you can calculate it based on the width of the hem (multiply by a factor of 4 or even 5 - this is for decoration at the bottom, plus 0.5m for the bodice)
- red ribbon 25mm wide, 0.6m long for a belt
- elastic band 20 or 25mm wide for the waist - about 40cm long
- elastic bands for the top of the bodice - about 40 cm were used from various leftovers (4 pieces of 10 cm each)
- lace and beads optional, I just had to add any leftovers
- we especially remember about the red threads, which will need to be used to sew meters and meters of red ribbon, i.e. take a reel to match.

Pattern calculation is as simple as possible:
Skirt It is a long rectangle (mine spans the entire width of the fabric) with a height = the desired length of the skirt plus seam allowances and a hem turn. In my case, the height of the skirt is 22cm + allowances.


We sew the rectangle along the side seam and finish it with an overlocker. First process the bottom with an overlocker, then turn it up by 1-2cm (how many allowances were planned), here you can immediately sew the hem, or you can pin it with pins/bait and sew it on at the same time as the tape - this is more difficult, because The entire tape must be laid out manually.
Now about the tape. Of course, it is very difficult to assemble 6-7 m of ribbon onto a thread by hand, in addition, due to the tightening of the thread, satin ribbons give “fabric coming apart” and the appearance of the unraveling ribbon is somehow not very good. So I used the Miracle Gathering Foot with a fold factor of 2 and a pitch of 1.
For those who don’t have such a paw, don’t be upset, but keeping in mind the difficulties described above, take pieces of tape 1-1.5 m long and simply connect the overall picture of their pieces. A little longer, but the view will be better than stretching the entire 6m along the thread. Don't forget to burn the edges of the tape so that they don't fray later.

So, the assembled tape lies ready. We lay it beautifully along the hem (I pinned the kinks with pins). Keep in mind that the assembled tape must be made 10-20 cm more than mathematically calculated, since during the process of laying and stitching it will still be packed thicker than expected. Here's a close-up view


I lay the tape in zigzags with flips at the transition points from one semicircle to another - fortunately, the tape is almost double-sided. You can come up with your own styling method.)

Bodice pattern It is also a rectangle (2 pieces). Height = bodice height, width = waist circumference/2 + allowance for a loose fit (mine is +10cm).
In total, we get 2 rectangles with a height of 14 cm (plus seam allowances) and a width of 46/2 + 5 = 28 cm for each rectangle (with a waist of 46 cm for a child)

At the upper corners of the rectangle we cut (almost by eye) small (!) semicircles for the armholes. Cut very small ones, because... The seam allowances will also be taken away and the armhole will become larger, so don’t overdo it in the beginning. It’s better to put it on the child and use a pencil to mark the height of the armhole, if necessary.

Here in the photo are all the details of the bodice - below are just the rectangles of the bodice. On the left are the straps (I already have them ready, because I didn’t immediately think about MK), above are facings for the armholes and rectangles – facings for the top of the bodice.

Let's do the straps first. Their length can also be measured on the child (or calculated knowing the length of the front to the waist and the height of the main part of the bodice), length x2, so that later they can be assembled with an elastic band and it will turn out magnificent. It’s better to make it with reserves, and then cut off the excess. The straps are sewn from simple rectangles, decorated with lace on one side. An elastic band is inserted inside. It is better to sew bows on the finished product.)

When the armhole cutouts have been accurately checked, you can cut out the top facings for them (rectangles 3-4 cm wide and length = the length of the flat upper part of the bodice (again, let me clarify that allowances were made for a loose fit (about 10 cm), in addition, a gathered top is planned, so the top The bodice is slightly larger than the same line along the child's body. Didn't it confuse everyone?
In my case, the final length is 14, and the initial one is 22 cm. And facings = 24x4 2 pcs.

And we cut out the armhole facings - you can sew the parts of the bodice on one side, attach them to the paper and trace the armhole line. The width of the facing is also 3-4 cm.

We process the top of the bodice. We add decorations (I have a red ribbon and a piece of lace) + facing

We sew everything along the top at once. By the way, I don’t process the edges that go inward with an overlocker (in this case), because... the knitwear practically does not fray, and the seam itself does not thicken.
We turn everything inside out and stitch at a distance of 1 cm (to fit the elastic inside)

.

We insert an elastic band inside and secure it along the edges so that it does not run away in the future.


So both edges of the bodice.

Now we sew on the straps - we apply the finished straps (do not confuse right and left, if the straps are different - like mine in semicircles), on top of the facing (the lower edge of which is processed).


Carefully sew along the strap (above the edge of the bodice with elastic, i.e. without catching it with the stitch) and along the armhole.


We turn the facing inside out and sew a beautiful stitch over it. We decorate the straps, if necessary. The bodice is ready.

Now I sewed a red ribbon (25mm wide) along the bottom of the bodice, leaving its seam unsewn to insert the elastic. I pinned the bottom of the bodice along with the ribbon to prevent fidgeting.

The prepared skirt must be gathered at the top (here it’s easier with a thread) so that the width of the skirt and the width of the bodice are equal.
We fold the bodice and skirt face to face and sew them together, evenly grabbing the edge of the red ribbon. Perhaps the whole difficulty lies in accuracy, so make larger allowances, and then cut evenly to the edge of the tape so that you can see the edge and dance from it when stitching.

All that remains is to thread the elastic into the waist and manually grab the armhole facing to the side seams and the top facing so that it does not turn away.
The sundress is ready!

Sew with pleasure!

Master class on sewing a children's sundress. Today we will tell you how to sew a sundress for a girl with your own hands.

Required materials and tools:

Paper pattern for the base of the dress bodice, fabric, hidden zipper, button, thread, scissors, tailor's pins.

Preparing the pattern.

To make the sundress easier to sew, and the item itself to turn out beautiful and even, it is better to cut out the product using an already proven pattern - the basis of the bodice of a dress for a girl. On the paper blank, mark a new neck line on the front and back.

Now let's imagine where the straps will be. It is important that they coincide when combining the front and back patterns along the shoulder seam.

The last stage of preparing the pattern for the upper part of the sundress is the design of a new armhole line.

Sewing the top part of the sundress.

Using the existing paper base, we cut out two pieces each for the front and back (one for the lining). Using the pattern, we measure the length and width of the strip that will serve as the strap, and also cut it out in duplicate.

Let's start making the straps. Fold the fabric blank in half and stitch along the long side. Then turn it inside out and smooth it out so that the seam is in the middle. All that remains is to lay a stabilizing stitch a few millimeters from the long edge.

We connect the straps with the “lining” of the sundress bodice. It is advisable to try on the future product at this stage, so that the finished straps fit beautifully to the shoulders and shoulder blades of the girl model. Please also note that the seam on the straps at this moment should coincide with the front side of the cut out lining.

Sew the front and back parts of the lining along one of the side seams. We leave the other one for lightning. Similarly, we sew both parts of the main fabric.

Now we sew the inner and outer parts of the sundress bodice, turn the part inside out and, by analogy with the straps, lay a stabilization stitch along the upper edge.

Sewing a sundress skirt.

To cut out the lower part of this product, no special calculations are needed. The pattern is a rectangle, the length of which matches the length of the future skirt of the product, and the width matches the width of the purchased fabric, but not less than 1.5 times the circumference of the girl’s hips.

Sew the rectangle along the only side seam, leaving the area for the zipper unsewn. We lay two straight lines along the top of the skirt and gather the fabric until its width is equal to the width of the bodice.

Product assembly.

On the bodice we press the side seam so that a hidden zipper is placed in the resulting “pocket”. We sew the main part of the bodice with the skirt, and leave the lining unsewn about 3-4 cm to the future side seam.

We sew in a zipper and smooth out the seams.

We bend the bottom of the product.

Sewing a belt and bow.

Patterning and sewing a belt for a sundress is not fundamentally different from how the straps are sewn. First, we cut out a rectangle, which we stitch along the long side, and after turning it inside out, we smooth it and stitch it a few millimeters from the edge.

To create a bow, cut out a square from the fabric. We smooth its two parallel sides by 0.5 cm, and sew the other two sides.

We turn the workpiece inside out and manually sew the remaining open edges with blind stitches. The middle seam should be in the middle.

Now we find the vertical middle of the rectangle and manually tighten it along this imaginary line. It turns out to be a beautiful bow.

We sew it to the edge of the belt, and attach a button on the back side.

The second part of the button is placed at the second end of the belt. At the same time, in order for it to hold securely, it is better to sew the belt itself to the sundress in the area of ​​the side seam (without a zipper).

The sundress for the girl is ready!

The final look of the craft. Photo 1.

The final look of the craft. Photo 2.

The final look of the craft. Photo 3.

The sundress can be decorated with a bright and beautiful pattern. Find a design that is suitable for a girl. For a drawing to turn out beautiful, the quality of the drawing itself must be good. It is best to print on the cut, and not on the finished sundress. Finding where they print drawings is not a problem. For example, they do printing on the cut.

> We sew a summer sundress for a girl - 5 options
In the hot summer, a light sundress made of thin fabric is simply irreplaceable.
In spring and autumn, a sundress is convenient because you can wear either a T-shirt under it for warm weather, or a turtleneck for cool weather.
And in winter, a sundress made of warm fabric perfectly warms and does not hinder movement.
The sundress has long become the standard for a convenient and practical school uniform for girls.
There are a great many options for sundresses. You can't tell about everyone.
Here are summer models that will suit any girl.
The models of sundresses are very simple; you can sew them with your own hands without much effort. All that remains is to choose!
Summer sundress for girls with straps

This sundress is suitable for a little girl, from 2 to 5 years old. You will need a very small piece of light fabric. Satin, linen or cotton will do.

Nowadays, fabric stores have a huge selection of all kinds of summer fabrics. You can easily choose the color to suit your taste.

Measure the length of the sundress from the estimated top edge of the chest to the bottom of the skirt and add 15 cm for allowances and facings. The result will be the length that is needed to sew the sundress.

The sundress can be sewn with a frill at the bottom, as in the photo, or without a frill.

To create a sundress pattern, use the diagram below as a sample.
Measure sundress length(excluding straps) and chest width.

If you are going to sew a sundress without a bottom frill, leave the length as is.
If you like the option of a sundress with a flounce, then shorten the length of the pattern by the width of the flounce.

Divide the width of the chest into 4 parts and add 2-3 cm. We get the width of the pattern for each shelf along the chest line.
The height of the breast is approximately 8-10 cm. The front and back shelves are almost the same. The only difference is the armhole circumference. The armhole on the back shelf is flatter than on the front shelf.
You can make a pattern on paper, cut it out and then cut from it. Or you can cut out a sundress by making markings directly on the fabric. Just don't forget the seam allowances.

Pattern pattern for a sundress for a girl

Layout of a children's sundress pattern on fabric

You should now have:

• back – 1 piece
• top back facing – 1 piece
• front – 1 piece
• facing of the top of the front shelf – 1 piece
• strap – 2 parts
• flounce – 1-2 parts (the length of the flounce is 1.5-2 times wider than the bottom of the sundress)

To make the sundress beautiful not only from the outside, but also from the inside, I recommend immediately processing all the edges of the parts with a zigzag seam or using an overlocker.

So, to sew a sundress you need:

1. Fold each strap in half lengthwise, right side inward, and stitch.
2. Turn out the straps of the sundress and iron.
   Elastic braid or ribbon can be used as straps.
3. Fold the front and back halves of the sundress right sides inward and sew the side seams.
4. Baste the straps to the shelves, determining and adjusting the location and length of the straps.
   Keep in mind that the straps of the sundress are located closer to each other on the back than on the front.
5. Place the facing along the upper edge of the front and back panels of the sundress with the right side facing inward. Sew a seam that will also secure the straps.
6. Sew the side seams of the facing.
7. Turn the facing inside out, iron and topstitch.
8. At a distance of 2-3 cm from the edge, very carefully lay another stitch that will secure the facing along the bottom edge.
9. Carefully sew the bottom of the sundress with a hem stitch.
10. If you are sewing a sundress with a flounce along the bottom edge, then you need:
    • Sew the side sections of the flounce.
    • Finish the bottom edge of the flounce with a hem stitch.
    • Gather the top edge of the flounce and sew it to the bottom edge of the sundress.

The summer sundress for your daughter is ready!
In addition, you can further decorate it with applique, braid or sew on a pocket.

The next summer sundress model is even easier to sew!
Summer sundress without pattern
Even if you have never sewn anything, you will still definitely be able to cope with this simple model and sew a summer sundress for your baby in literally 20 minutes.

This simple sundress can be sewn from different fabrics. A plain fabric or one with a bright print is also suitable.

You will need:
a very small piece of fabric that can be loosely wrapped around your daughter and 1.5 - 2 m of tape for the straps.

The sundress consists of two identical parts - front and back.
The sundress should be loose, so the width of each part should be 10-15 cm larger than half the circumference of your girl’s hips.

Moreover, the sundress can be made a little flared.

Pattern for cutting a sundress for a little girl

To sew a sundress you need:

1. Fold the fabric face inward, mark the length and width of the sundress and mark the armholes with chalk.
2. Cut out 2 parts: the back and front of the sundress, not forgetting the seam allowances. If you don't have suitable tape on hand for the straps, cut them out of fabric.
3. Fold the edges of the armholes and stitch.
4. Sew side seams.
5. Fold the bottom of the sundress and stitch. If desired, you can add a flounce, border, braid, whatever you like to the bottom of the sundress.
6. Fold the upper part of the sundress (neck) - make a drawstring.
7. Thread a ribbon through the drawstring and tie a bow.

Sundress for your baby READY!

But for older girls and teenagers, I recommend sewing a similar sundress, but you will only need to cut it diagonally.
A diagonal cut or, as it is also called, a “cut on the bias” will give the sundress a light and flowing silhouette.

Learn more about how to sew a summer sundress without a pattern in 30 minutes in the video tutorial by Olga Nikishicheva.
How to sew a sundress without a pattern
Online sewing school for Moms

Another version of the original sundress for girls
Children's sundress with “wings”
It won’t take much time to sew a summer sundress for a girl that has lace wings sewn on instead of straps.

You will need:

• Some cotton fabric
• Lace “Sewing” – about 50 cm
• Rubber

To sew a sundress you need:

1. Measure the length of the sundress and cut out 2 parts (front and back). Don't forget about seam allowances, drawstring and hem finishing.
2. Place the shelves right sides inward and sew the side seams.
3. Sew lace to the front and back flaps as shown in the diagram above.
4. Finish the edges of the armhole with a hem stitch. Topstitch.
5. Fold the edge of the neck so that the elastic can be inserted inside. If the width of the lace does not allow this, sew an additional narrow satin ribbon or bias tape on the wrong side. Insert the rubber band.
6. Finish the bottom edge of the sundress. You can sew a wide ruffle or lace along the bottom of the sundress.

Another summer outfit is ready!

The result is a light summer dress with lace wings. It looks very romantic. Additionally, the sundress can be decorated with bows made from braid and ribbons.
Summer flared sundress
You can just as easily and quickly sew a children's sundress with a cut-off skirt. The skirt can be made either gathered (“tatyanka”) or “sun”.

You will need:

• light summer fabric - about 60-70 cm, depending on the age of the girl and the length of the sundress.
• threads, braid

To sew a flared sundress you need:

1. Take measurements and mark the pattern. Because The pattern is very simple, you can measure all the measurements on the fabric at once. Use the pattern for a sundress for a girl.

2. All edges of the received parts must be processed.
3. Sew the back seam on the front and skirt.
4. Place the front and skirt right sides together and stitch along the waistline. In the process of connecting the upper and lower parts of the sundress, the skirt needs to be gathered slightly.
5. Fold up the bottom edge of the skirt and sew a seam. You can decorate the edge with braid or lace.
6. Finish the top edge of the front with a hem stitch.
7. Determine the place for the straps and stitch them. As straps, you can use elastic braid to match the fabric.

If desired, you can sew an applique, pocket or ribbon to the sundress as a belt.
The new thing is ready!
Double-sided children's sundress
At first glance, it may seem that sewing a double-sided sundress is much more difficult than a regular sundress, but this is not so. The speed and ease of sewing is its main advantage. And the original straps with knots and the contrast between the front and back sides make the sundress very unusual.

You will need:

1. Two pieces of spectacular fabrics, 80cm each. One side can be made from thin jeans (dark blue or light blue). The color of the jeans goes beautifully with the multi-colored cotton.
2. Sewing threads that are harmonious in color.

The pattern for a double-sided sundress is available in three sizes:

• 86/92 (1.5-2 years)
• 98/104 (3-4 years)
• 110/116 (5-6 years)

Seam allowances of 1 cm are taken into account.

Pattern for a double-sided children's sundress

To sew a double-sided sundress you need:

1. Transfer the pattern to paper (1 square = 1 cm) and cut out the parts.
2. Cut out the front and back of the sundress from fabric A and fabrics B. There will be 4 parts in total. Also cut out pocket pieces if needed. (Let me remind you: seam allowances of 1 cm are taken into account.)
3. Finish all edges and hems of the dress with a zigzag stitch or overlock stitch.
4. Sew a pocket or applique onto the front piece of Fabric A (optional).
5. A
6. Fold the front and back fabric pieces B together, right sides facing in. Stitch and press the side seams.
7. Place one dress inside the other, so that they are right sides together, and sew the dresses together along the armhole, straps and neckline.
8. Notch the seam allowances several times at the neckline and armhole. The allowances at the ends of the straps can be cut off a little.
9. Turn the resulting double dress right side out and iron all edges.
10. Use a straight or decorative stitch along the armhole, straps and neckline, not too close to the hem.
11. Hem the hem of each sundress. You can sew cotton lace, decorative ribbon or braid onto one side of the sundress.

Hooray! Sundress for daughter READY!

Apr 26, 2015 Galinka