Flowers made of fabric without the use of “bulek” (cold corrugation)
Even those who are working in this technique for the first time can make such a brooch and other jewelry with their own hands! Using this technology, you can make poppies, roses, and any other flower.
This wonderful master class on silk floristry was provided to us by Lyudmila Strutinskaya, who makes flowers in different existing techniques and from different materials(silk, fabric, plastic (cold porcelain), felted wool, leather, fur). The master's works can be found in contact with, at the Crafts Fair in the Shop of the master Lyudmila Strutinskaya “Cuteness” and in the Shop of the master Lyudmila Strutinskaya “Milino Delo”.
Dear readers, this MK is designed for beginners, those who have never immersed themselves in the World of color making.
The fantasy-finishing flower is made without “boules” (cold corrugation), only with the help of hands!
With the help of this lesson, you can make a beautiful fantasy decoration flower as a gift for yourself or your loved ones. For example, for a school graduate or a bridesmaid, a bride, for yourself on a holiday!)
Everything will depend on what kind of fabric you take. Preferably natural silk(artificial fabrics are difficult to work with for beginners, but they are also suitable). For example, you have pieces of fabric left over from a dress that you sewed for prom. These scraps will make a wonderful decoration in the form of a brooch, hair clip, flower on your hand...
In MK, for clarity, I use two types of fabric: crepe-satin and knitwear (these are artificial and quite dense fabrics), but I recommend that you use natural ones: silk, crepe de Chine, poplin, satin, chiffon, lining, velvet, brocade, etc. .
To make a flower from fabric we will need:
Gelatinized fabric
Scissors
Wire
A piece of fabric 25 x 25 cm (for corrugation)
Threads (preferably in the color of the flower fabric)
Beads. Lurex, feathers... whatever you want to use to make the center of your unique flower
PVA glue
Accessories (hairpin, brooch base or just a safety pin, if you don’t have one, headband, elastic band...)
First you need to gelatinize the fabric:
Before gelatinizing the fabric, you need to iron it.
One tbsp. gelatin per 1 glass of water. Pour half a glass of gelatin with water and let it swell for 40 minutes, then add another half glass of cold water and put it on low heat, stirring continuously until the gelatin is completely dissolved and bubbles appear on the wall (but not bringing to a boil). Place the fabric on a glass or table with plastic and soak it in gelatin (moderately so that it does not drip). Impregnation is carried out with a hot gelatin solution removed from the heat using a wide brush. Heat the cooled gelatin again. The fabric must be soaked through. It is better to dry on a line, on safety pins and make sure that it does not curl up.
Once dry, iron (without steam).
Poppy pattern
Now we will take poppy patterns, but you can draw your own pattern and you will have a completely original flower. The main thing is to understand the principle of how to make a flower.
Making a petal
Place the patterns on the fabric and cut them out. The petals are cut out strictly along the bias thread, that is, the line of the middle of the petal coincides with the direction of the bias thread of the fabric (diagonal).
Let's start corrugating the petals.
Petals
To corrugate the petal - corolla, fabric is used (you can take gauze, cambric, organza). Corrugation is done by hand. Take a piece of fabric 25 x 25, fold it along an oblique line and insert a petal folded in the middle (right side inward). With your left hand we press the petal to the table, and with your right hand we pull and twist the fabric. It is better to do all this on the edge of the table.
Before you start corrugating, the petals should be slightly moistened by placing them on a damp cloth for a minute and covering them with the other end of the cloth. In this case, the petal should not be wet.
Petal corrugation
The result is crumpled fabric and corrugation.
And this is how the corrugated petal turns out. This is how you need to process all the petals of the corolla.
Next, we take the petal with the front side facing us, process it with our hands, as shown in the photo, bend it (stretch it), we get this convexity
Processing the edge
We process the edge of the petal with our hands: we stretch it with our fingers, while bending it in different sides(inside and out), and so on, cm by cm, we try to be careful so that the edge does not fray (if you do end up with moths, then you need to trim them so that the edge is clean and neat)
Petal
We process all the petals of the corolla in this way.
The number of petals in a poppy is usually 6 - 8, but you can have more - this is a fantasy flower
Middle
We make a core from beads: we string beads onto a wire and form a center of the required size, leaving the ends of the wire free, onto which we then screw the stamens and secure them with a thread, tightly wrapping them around. We make the stamens from wire or gelatinized thick thread (you can use fishing line).
We form any core you like (beads, threads, lurex, beads, feathers, etc.)
Flower assembly:
We take the finished core and, one by one, lay and tie with threads all the petals at the base by 5 mm (for strength, glue with PVA glue). PVA glue should be transparent when dry (we only use this kind)
The petals must be tied at the same level (not with a bump). Each petal overlaps each other by approximately half a petal if there are 6 petals in a flower, and by three quarters if there are 8 petals.
It turns out to be such a flower!
This flower is made of kashibo fabric (thick artificial silk), the edge is treated with glitter (sequins)
Imagine! I'm sure you will succeed!
DIY flower head wreath made of fabric
We also invite you to watch the master class DIY fabric flowers master class for beginners - Roses
DIY flower brooch made of wool
There are always a lot of detailed master classes for you on felting, making flowers from fabric with your own hands, sewing Teddy bears, modeling and other techniques in the section
Creating graceful and beautiful , I want to prolong the pleasure as long as possible by adding them to my look. It is precisely so that during the manufacturing process the details of the future flower can be easily processed, and the finished flower retains its unique shape, the fabric must first be treated with a special solution.
In modern flower making there are 4 main fabric processing method, which have both their pros and some cons. This is what we are going to figure out now.
1. Treatment of fabric with gelatin
The first and probably the most common method of processing fabric is. This method is mainly used for processing silk fabrics.
Traditional recipe for gelatin solution:
3 teaspoons + 350 ml water, but if you want to create a light swaying in the wind flower decoration, then you can get by with two teaspoons (this ratio is great for natural satin fabric). Pour 350 ml of cold water into 3 tsp. gelatin and leave to swell for 30-40 minutes. As soon as the gelatin has completely swollen, we heat the solution in a water bath until it is transparent, and the gelatin solution must not boil under any circumstances, otherwise it will no longer be suitable for use!
After the finished solution has cooled a little, you can safely treat the fabric with it. In this case, the fabric must first be lightly washed in a soapy solution, allowed to dry, after drying, do not iron, and for ease of processing, cut into small pieces of 30*30 or 30*40 cm. Dip a piece of fabric into a bowl, let it soak well and then, without squeezing, and removing excess gelatin with your fingers, straighten it and hang it to dry on a fishing line or thread, securing it with pins. After drying, the fabric is ready for further processing.
Depending on the density of the fabric, the amount of gelatin varies and it is important to remember that the thinner the fabric is, the greater the mass fraction of gelatin in the prepared solution should be.
+ When treated with gelatin, flower details are easy to process and hold their shape well.
— The gelatin solution gives a yellowish tint to light-colored fabric and with this treatment it is very difficult to achieve impeccable snow-whiteness of the product, therefore this method rarely used for making wedding flowers.
2. Treatment of fabric with starch
Cotton fabrics are usually treated with potato starch.
To do this, stir 1 tablespoon of potato starch in 2 glasses of cold water and bring to a boil, stirring constantly. After this, it is allowed to cool to a warm state and the fabric is treated in the same way as with a gelatin solution.
+ Starching does not impart yellowness to products.
— The products are poorly resistant to moisture.
I’m probably carried away by the theory, but do you want to start making flowers as soon as possible? I understand you very well, but I still think that the previous lessons were useful. Especially for those who have no more information on this topic.
This was a small digression, but now let's get down to business. I tried to illustrate and describe the whole process in detail. I hope everything will be clear. If you have any questions, write to the forum or to me personally.
Today we will make a small bouquet similar to the one that is in my first gallery: second row, second and third photographs (No. 4 and 5). These two works were made from the same pattern, only used different fabrics and added various accessories.
You can use any fabric. It is advisable that it be thin, since working with dense and thick fabrics is much more difficult. And it’s better if it’s natural. You can make this bouquet entirely from one fabric, or you can make flowers and leaves from materials of different colors, and also choose a fabric of a different quality for the leaves. You can also collect the flowers themselves from different fabrics. I think they will only benefit from this. For example, in my bouquets, some of the leaves are made of organza. You can fantasize as much as you want.
For my bouquet I took 4 types of fabric: light yellow natural crepe de Chine for the corollas, organza of the same color to add a little shine to the flowers and two shades of green fabric for the leaves.
In addition to the finished fabric (this means processed with gelatin and dried), we will need:
- thin wire
- crepe paper
- beads or small beads for the core and larger ones - as an addition to the flowers
First of all - patterns.
We have three flowers in our bouquet, so we count like this:
In total we need five patterns:
- No. 5 - 1 piece, d= 8cm, it has 5 round petals
- No. 4 - 2 pcs., d= 7.5 cm, with three petals
- No. 3 - 3 pcs., d= 6.5 cm, with three petals
- No. 2 - 3 pcs., d= 5.5 cm, with three petals
- No. 1 - 3 pcs., d= 4 cm, with three petals
The petals can be cut finely wavy - the flowers will be more interesting. Use a thick awl to make a hole in the center of each corolla.
You also need to cut out 4-5 oval-shaped leaves with pointed tips and 3-4 long, sharp leaves. 
Leaves can be cut out without patterns, but if it’s difficult, first draw on cardboard and cut according to patterns.
Now let's prepare the stems for our flowers.
Crepe paper cut across the roll into strips 4-5 mm wide. We wrap a wire 10-12 cm long very tightly with paper ribbon.
You will need the following supplies:
- 3 - for flowers
- 8 - for leaves
- 5 - for additional decorations.
Total 16 pcs. (Better with a margin: 17-18)
In addition, the cores of our flowers are 5 stamens made of thin wire collected together with beads at the tips. For the stamens, you need to wrap pieces of very thin wire around a paper ribbon - 3-4 pieces. 12-15cm each. length.
We will paint all the entwined wires in a tone close to the color of the petals (or a contrasting one).
I use gouache paints for painting. Mix in a separate bowl necessary colors, achieving the required shade and be sure to add a little PVA glue. The more glue you add, the shinier the stems will be. It is convenient to paint the wire with a small flat brush.
Now let's collect the cores. 
Thin wires need to be cut into pieces approximately 2 cm long. You should get 15 pieces.
Glue a bead or small bead to the tip of each stamen wire. Gather 5 stamens into a bundle and make 4-5 turns with matching threads at a distance of approximately 1.5 cm from the beads. Now attach one of the wires prepared for the stems and wrap it tightly to the stamens. To be secure, add a drop of glue to the joint. We carefully wind a cotton ball with a diameter of about 5 mm into the place of winding and paint the cotton wool with the same paint as the stamens.
Well, aren't you tired? You can do this work in several stages until you get the hang of it. As a result of the torment, you get 3 blanks of cores with stems.
So how? Beauty? It's only the beginning!
In addition to the cores, we need 5 more beads for decoration. It's simple. Dip the tip of the wire into thick glue and put on a beautiful bead.
Now the petals.
For each whisk, select a boule suitable size. This means that the diameter of the bulb should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the petal (not the petal circle).
We work on a bed of sand.
From the front side we deepen each petal with a round loaf. The harder you press the tool, the more convex the petal will become and the more wavy the edges will be. Lightly press the center of the corolla with the same bubble. Repeat with each petal circle. Press the middle of petals No. 1 firmly so that the petals come together.
Hello dear readers. Since I decided to start a new section on making flowers using tools, the first thing I want to do is describe how to properly prepare fabric for working with it, so that in the future I don’t have to describe this process in every article; we’ll go here for this information.
The gelatin solution is approximate, since the exact proportions depend on the quality of the gelatin and the thickness of the tissue (than thinner fabric– the more gelatin).
We dilute 2 teaspoons of edible gelatin in 0.5 cups of water and let it brew for 15-30 minutes.
After the gelatin has infused and swollen, add 1 glass of water.
We heat the gelatin solution on a water bath or on a very low heat on gas, stirring it continuously. Do not bring the solution to a boil, but make sure that all the gelatin is thoroughly dissolved and does not leave small lumps.
Remove the solution from the heat, cool it a little so that it does not burn your fingers, but do not let it cool too much.
Dip the fabric into the solution and remove excess solution from the fabric, passing it between your fingers; it is not recommended to wring out the fabric.
The fabric should be dried in such a way that it is completely straightened and does not come into contact with anything. IN otherwise the fabric will stick together and once dry it will be impossible to separate it without ruining it. It is better to dry indoors and not in the wind, which can also cause the fabric to stick together.
After the fabric has dried, it can be used. It can also be removed for storage by rolling it up - you cannot fold the fabric, as the folds will be difficult or almost impossible to remove.
Copyright © ATTENTION!. This material is for personal use only. Copying content and posting on other Internet resources is PROHIBITED.I
. Fabrics:
Silk, crepe de chine, poplin, satin, chiffon, lining, velvet, brocade, etc. synthetic and natural
II . Tools:
- Fabric scissors (large and small)
- Scissors for cardboard and paper.
- Small pliers (pliers, preferably duckbills) for cutting wire, for bending and twisting wire
- Tweezers for gripping petals during dyeing, for crimping and assembly.
- Hook or knitting needle for curling petals.
- Awl.
- Preferably a set of tools (“bulks”).
8.Pads:
Hard rubber for corrugating leaves and petals, piercing holes (such rubber can be cut from old car tire and at least 2 cm thick and 15 cm wide (square)
Soft rubber (you can use a porous sponge or thick foam rubber at least 4 cm thick) for squeezing out petals and deep corrugation
A sand pad 15x20 cm (wash the sand, dry it and put it in a bag) is used for convex corrugation of rose petals
Cover all pillows with cotton fabric covers (or simply cover them with fabric)
III . Tracing paper, cardboard for making and making patterns
IV . PVA glue (attention!!! The glue must be transparent after drying)
V .Brushes for painting petals.
VI .Dyes:
Aniline for fabrics of all types and colors (Batik is very good)
Food colorings
VII . Paper:
Corrugated in all colors
Cigarette paper
VIII
. Edible gelatin
it's better to use this one
X .Wire:
from 0.3mm to 2mm. It must be plastic (now often sold in handicraft stores for beadwork, in radio goods)
XI .Colorless varnish
XII . Semolina (tinted) yellow, orange, brown, red, green, gray...
Semolina color:
in 1 tbsp. semolina add a grain of aniline dye (dry) desired color and pour in 0.5 teaspoon of alcohol (or cologne). Mix everything thoroughly. If you dilute liquid paints in alcohol and mix in semolina. Let dry (on paper). Grind so that there are no lumps. Store in small closed jars.
Treatment of fabric with gelatin:
Before gelatinizing the fabric, you need to iron it.
One tbsp. gelatin per 1 glass of water. Pour ½ cup of gelatin with water and let it swell for 40 minutes, then add another ½ cup of cold water and put on low heat, stirring continuously until the gelatin is completely dissolved and bubbles appear on the wall (but not bringing to a boil). Place the fabric on glass or a table with plastic and soak it in gelatin (moderately so that it does not drip). Impregnation is carried out with a hot gelatin solution removed from heat using a wide brush. Cooled gelatin
reheat. The fabric must be soaked through. It is better to dry on a line, on safety pins and make sure that it does not curl up.
.
After drying, iron (without steam). .
Treatment of velvet and panvelvet with gelatin
Prepare a gelatin solution for thick fabrics and cool to a thick jelly. Before processing, steam all pieces of velvet with the lint facing up and stretch it onto a frame or hoop. Quickly gelatinize the reverse side and remove excess. Gelatin should not bleed through from the front side of the velvet.
The gelatinized fabric should rustle like paper. But if you have gelatinized the fabric, it must be washed and gelatinized again.
This is a “bulka” tool with which petals are processed.
The tool is heated and the corolla or leaf is processed.
Making patterns:
The petals of the corolla and leaves can be made by disassembling (any) living flower, transferring it to tracing paper, and then transferring the outline to cardboard - making a template (pattern)
We transfer the contours of the template (details) onto the already prepared fabric, trace it with a simple pencil and carefully cut it out (be sure to cut off the pencil line)
ALL LEAVES AND PETALS ARE CROSSED STRICTLY ON THE BIAS THREAD (i.e., the center of the petal and the middle of the leaf lie along the bias thread of the fabric).
Master class on making a fantasy MAKA. This flower version is made without " bulek" (cold corrugation)
Only with the help of hands.
Patterns of fantasy POPPY petals and cores (without teeth, the velvet poppy in MK is presented from satin)
We string beads onto a wire and form a center of the required size, leaving the ends of the wire free, onto which we then screw the stamens and secure them with a thread, tightly wrapping them around. We make the stamens from wire or gelatinized thick thread (you can use fishing line).
It is made from threads like this: On a flat strip of cardboard (or on a finger, or on two pencils), gelatinized threads are wound in the amount of stamens needed. Then the threads are removed from the cardboard (hand), tied in the middle and cut on both sides to the required length. You can cut the threads directly on the cardboard. To make pollen, the ends of the stamens are dipped 0.5 mm into PVA glue, then dipped in semolina, white or tinted (microbeads can be used).
We form any core you like (beads, threads, lurex, beads, feathers, etc.)
In this MK, for clarity, I use thick fabric. But it’s better to make poppies from thin fabrics, then they will be light and airy.
This photo shows a version of the middle of a velvet poppy (see pattern). We cut the part along the dotted line and wrap each petal with scissors (stretching it out), in a checkerboard pattern... face - wrong side.
We tie the curved petals to the core (whatever you can think of) in a checkerboard pattern.
This is what the middle of a velvet poppy looks like.
Organza fabric (you can use gauze) is used to corrugate the petal of the corolla. Corrugation is done by hand, take a piece of fabric 25 x 25, fold it along an oblique line and insert the petal bent in the middle (right side inward). With your left hand we press the petal to the table, and with your right hand we pull and twist the fabric. It is better to do all this on the edge of the table.
The result is crumpled fabric and corrugation.
And this is how the corrugated petal turns out. This is how you need to process all the petals of the corolla.
We take the petal with the front side facing us (if there are no “bullets”), process it with our hands, as shown in the photo, bend it (stretch it), we get such a convexity.
We process the edge of the petal with our hands: we stretch it with our fingers, while bending it in different directions (inward and outward).
The result is a petal like this (pink)
We process all the petals of the corolla in this way. The number of petals is usually 6 - 8 pieces
The processing of velvet poppy petals (from satin) is similar, only it is cut out according to a pattern without teeth (see photo of the pattern above).
Here is a photo of the front side, side view and back side (satin)
Flower assembly:
We take the finished core and, one by one, lay and tie all the petals at the base with threads of 5-7 mm (for strength, you can also glue them with PVA glue). The petals must be tied at the same level. Each petal should be placed on top of each other by approximately half a petal if there are 6 of them, and by 3/4 if there are 8 of them.
It turns out to be a flower that we attach to a hairpin (pin).
lilac poppy made of thick organza, fancy poppy made of kashibo 
Master class on making a fantasy flower
based on rose.
A variant of colors with minimal use of “bullets” or replacing them with a knife and spoon (something at hand).
In MK, for clarity, I use thick fabric so that it is better to see what and how...
Ideally use thin fabrics (silk)
Making a pattern
Production of litons:
Let's take corrugated paper, cut it 5mm wide, cut the tip of the paper at an angle of 45 degrees.
Place the wire parallel to the cut just below the tip of the paper, attach the end of the wire with PVA glue and bend the tip and glue it to the paper, then twist the wire with your right hand, and with your left hand pull the paper at an angle of 45 degrees to the wire (the sharper the angle, the thinner and neater the liton will be ) and twist to the end of the wire (you can periodically coat it with glue). At the end of the stem, secure the paper with glue. Right hand keep it at the top of the stem all the time without letting go. Tint the finished lithon in color and coat it all with glue.
Sheet processing:
The sheet is cut out using a template from gelatinized fabric.
We take the prepared lithon (the wire should not be thick and flexible), spread it with glue and glue it from the inside of the sheet in the center. It is advisable to tint the lithone in advance to match the tone.
Here I am showing an unpainted lithone for clarity, to make it clear.
We carry out the processing with a heated knife. We make the central vein with a double knife from the front side (holding the tip of the leaf).
Then we make lines on the leaf from the front side (single) at an angle of 30-45 degrees and cuts from the wrong side (in the spaces between the lines)
Here's what we get:
We make the core you like: beads, bugles, feathers, etc.
We process a small whisk (for pendants) with a hot “bulk” (a ball-object suitable in size) from the edge to the center (on rubber) from the inside out.Before processing, you need to moisten the petals a little (put them on a damp cloth for a few minutes) from the front side, from the edge to the center and in the center (the “bulks” can be replaced with a spoon or other object of suitable size)
If during the process of processing the “bulks” the edges have unraveled a little, they can be twisted again.
Flower assembly:
We put the petals on the core (be sure to glue them), in a checkerboard pattern.
And we form the following flower options:
The pendants are made like this: we string the processed small corollas with nalurex thread (in several folds). We make a knot at the end of the thread, put on a bead, then pierce the treated whisk in the center and stretch it to the bead. At the distance you need, we make the next knot, put on the bead, the whisk, and so on until the end.
We form a flower.
Such flowers can be made based on one pattern, just various additions and decorations. Here for clarity, I used thick fabric.
If you take a thin artificial or natural fabric, you get light and beautiful decorations!
Of course, these roses are made using boules, but if you wish, you can do something similar with a knife and spoon
Silk was used for flowers, artificial silk, satin, green leaves, batik paints were used for interior roses;
for brooches natural silk, satin. and hand tinting with batik paints.
Plasticine cactus
For more details, see Tags - Plasticine cactus
