Sew a draped dress with a skewed cut. A skewed cut is an exception to the rule. A prerequisite for fabric is knitwear that stretches - tariya9. Layout on fabric and resizing

Before we start designing, let’s figure out what the phrase “skewed cut”, which is so fashionable today, means. To prevent unnecessary deformation of the fabric when wearing, it is customary to cut along the grain of the warp, respectively, perpendicular to the weft. Sometimes, for flared styles, the pattern is laid out on the fabric at 45 degrees to the main line, i.e. obliquely.

« Skewed cut" is an exception to the rule, because the pattern is a construction not strictly vertically, but also horizontally. When laying out such a pattern on fabric, a very interesting effect is achieved. visual effect drapery fabric. Due to this, you can create diverse and unique fashionable tunics and lopsided dresses.

The material for products with a skewed cut must be stretchy, since use is not knitted fabrics with this unusual cut, may lead to discomfort while wearing.

Initial data

Pattern design

This pattern is suitable for sizes from 40 to 50. For sizes less than 40 and more than 50, it will be necessary to adjust some of the constants applied during construction. The front and back patterns of this tunic are exactly the same. They can be built directly on fabric wide 150 cm, folded in half, putting the graph paper and tracing paper aside.

(1). In the upper right corner we put t.A, we put it down from it 115 cm and put T.V. Right from t.V we postpone 75 cm and put t.B1. Up from t.B1 set aside 115 cm and place t.A1, connect it with t.A and we get a rectangle. Line AB- fabric fold line.

(2). From t.V set aside up 93 cm and put T.S. ½ About and put t.S1.

(3). From t.B1 set aside to the left 3 cm(estimated seam allowance) and put t.B2. We put it up from it 70 cm and put t.D.

(4). Connecting the dots C1 and D smooth line - we get the neck of the tunic.

(5). From t.D put down 40 cm- sleeve length to cuff, set t.D1. To the right of it we lay off a segment equal to ½ Oz or 10 cm, put t.D2.

(6). From t.C1 lower the line down until it intersects with the segment BB2, put t.S2. We put it up 50 cm and put t.S3.

(7). From t.S2 put it to the left 3 cm and put t.B3. Connect the dots with a smooth line B3, C3, D2- we get a side line. Full stop C3 You can lower it lower - it all depends on what degree of sleeve fit you prefer.

(8). From t.A to the right we put a segment equal to ½ Oz or 10 cm and put t.A2. We connect it with a smooth line with t.S1.

(9). As a result of construction, a pattern is obtained; all that remains is to figure out where to make the seams.

• Line AB- fabric fold line.
• Line С1D- neck line.
• Lines A2С1, DD1, D2С3В3- seam lines.
• Lines AA2 and D2D1- cuff stitching lines.
• Line BB3- bottom line.

Cuff pattern

Now draw a rectangle with equal sides 24cm And 20cm- (measurement OZ)- the cuffs are ready.

Well done! Skewed dress pattern ready!

Natamoda showed an interesting skewed cut. Its author is unknown. A client brought a ready-made regular knit blouse from her friend. A pattern was taken from it, adjusted, and sewn knitted dress skewed cut.

Dress pattern with a skewed cut

The pattern is quite simple. The dimensions in the pattern are made for a specific figure: chest girth (CG) - 88 cm, waist girth (W) - 66 cm, hip girth (H) - 100 cm, height 175 cm.

The dress is cut at the waist (LT).

Let's look at the drawing of the upper and lower halves of the dress separately.

The top of the dress is geometric figures: Rectangle with a one-piece stand-up collar and trapezoid sleeves.

The drawing shows the location of the shoulder, side, collar, folds, and where the fabric is folded. The sleeves at the bottom are very narrow - around the wrist.

The bottom of the dress is a straight, slightly tapered skirt, made exactly to fit the figure, taking into account the stretch coefficient of the specific knitwear.

Actual dimensions are shown in the drawing

Pattern adjustment

If you carefully examined the drawing, it shows that the entire width of the fabric is required for the top of the dress - 1.40 m.

Therefore, adjustments to the top of this dress will only be in the length and size of the sleeves.

Look, holding a measuring tape to yourself, by how many centimeters you need to lengthen or shorten the length of the upper part relative to the size of the pattern. In the same way, check your required sleeve length and wrist width.

The adjustment to the bottom is slightly different. Take your skirt base, or a skirt pattern that you have already sewn from and are satisfied with the result. Wrap the jersey fabric around your hips and find a comfortable fit.

Place marks or pins where you want the fabric to meet at the highest point of your hips. Measure this width using a measuring tape on the fabric. Measure the pattern along the LB and LT. Reduce the pattern along the side seams by as much as the fabric measurements are smaller than the actual pattern size for LB and LT.

Sewing a dress

There are not many seams in the dress (photo). It is only important to follow the assembly sequence.

• Sew the shoulder and collar sections with one seam.
• Sew on the sleeves.
• Sew the side and sleeve seams with one seam.
• Place folds on the shoulder and opposite side. Attach the pleats to the seams.
• Fold half of the one-piece collar to the wrong side and attach it to the seam. On the second shoulder, where there is no seam, attach the collar using invisible stitches.
• Sew the seams and darts of the skirt.
• Sew the skirt to the top of the dress, from thin fabric Sew a drawstring along this seam from the wrong side, insert an elastic band into it.
• Try on the dress. Place the elastic band in a place convenient for you and adjust the degree of its tension.
• Fold the bottom of the dress and sleeves hand stitch or double needle.

Fabric consumption and properties

This model is sewn only from elastic fabric. When buying fabric in a store, put a couple of folds on it and see how beautifully this particular knitwear lies in the folds. Look at its stretch. Too elastic knitwear (with a high degree of stretch - 30% or more) is not suitable for this model.

If the fabric is 1.50m wide you will need 1.50m.

With a width of 1.40 m - 1.80 m.

Final result.

If you want to sew a knitted dress with a skewed cut with one-piece sleeves and without a stand-up collar, then use this tunic pattern:

The dress will look like this:

Good luck in your crafting and creative inspiration!

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Master Class

The “skewed cut” is becoming more and more popular among ladies, and for good reason. When laying out such a pattern on fabric, a very interesting visual drapery effect is achieved. Due to this, you can create varied and unique fashionable tunics and dresses. The material for a skewed cut should only be knitted, since it is this fabric that will allow you to move easily and will not cause discomfort while wearing, due to the unusual cut of the clothing.

Pattern design
This pattern is suitable for sizes from 40 to 50. We take 110 cm for hip circumference, 25 cm for wrist circumference. For sizes less than 40 and more than 50, it will be necessary to adjust some constant values ​​​​used during construction. The front and back patterns of this tunic are exactly the same. They can be built directly on fabric 150 cm wide, folded in half, putting the graph paper and tracing paper aside.

(1). In the upper right corner we put t.A, put 115 cm down from it and put t.V. To the right of point B, set aside 75 cm and place point B1. We put 115 cm up from point B1 and put point A1, connect it to point A and get a rectangle. Line AB is the fold line of the fabric.

(2). From t.B we put 93 cm up and put t.S. To the right of it we put aside a segment equal to ½ About and put t.C1.

(3). From point B1 to the left we set aside 3 cm (the expected seam allowance) and place point B2. We put 70 cm up from it and put etc.

(4). We connect points C1 and D with a smooth line - we get the neck of the tunic.

(5). From t.D we put 40 cm down - the length of the sleeve to the cuff, put t.D1. To the right of it we set aside a segment equal to ½ Oz or 10 cm, set point D2.

(6). From t.C1 we lower the line down to the intersection with segment BB2, put t.C2. We put 50 cm up on it and put t.C3.

(7). From point C2 we put 3 cm to the left and place point B3. We connect points B3, C3, D2 with a smooth line - we get a side line. Point C3 can be lowered lower - it all depends on what degree of sleeve fit is preferred.

(8). From point A to the right we set aside a segment equal to ½ Oz or 10 cm and place point A2. We connect it with a smooth line to point C1.

(9). As a result of construction, a pattern is obtained; all that remains is to figure out where to make the seams.

Blouson dress with a swing archive article.

A dress based on a Japanese pattern, another skewed cut - this time with a "swing", demonstrated Alexandrinka. It can be worn both as a dress and as a blouse.
You will need knitwear that stretches across the width. Cut length - 1.9 m, width - 1.65 m. The pattern is suitable for size chest girth (CG) - 100 cm, waist girth (W) - 82 cm, hip girth (H) - 104 cm. Reducing and increasing the pattern will be discussed below .

Reading and making a pattern
First of all, let's look at the diagram, let's find out where the hem, sleeves and front rocker neck are located.
Important - the rocker is located on the fabric along the loop column of the knitted fabric.

Enlarged assembly diagrams and drawings can be downloaded as one file in a zip archive.
(3.62 MB) Number of downloads: 204

In order to copy the pattern from the given diagram in full size, you will need to glue 6 large sheets paper. The height of the first and second sheets is 52.5 cm, the maximum width is 81 cm. Newspapers can be used as large sheets to be glued together. The seams of combining the 1st and 2nd sheets with subsequent ones are visible in the diagram

The sheet lines in the diagram are shown gray, the sheets are numbered 1 to 6. The alignment seams of the first and second sheet with subsequent sheets serve as a good guide. From these alignment seams, the dimensions indicated in the diagram can be conveniently placed up and down, right and left.
All dimensions (red numbers) in the drawing are given in cm. If the number is on a horizontal line, this is its length. If the number is to the left/right of the vertical dividing line, then this is the vertical distance between the red horizontal lines or the red lines and the edges of large combined sheets.
Having finished drawing all the dimensional lines, we trace the outline using rulers and tailor’s patterns.
The diagram shows allowances for processing seams. The width of all allowances is 1 cm. And only the allowance for the hem is 2 cm. The dotted line indicates a drawstring into which you can insert a lace and tighten it at the waist line. Drawstring width 3 cm.
For those who own graphic drawing programs, obtaining a pattern is made many times easier. The given drawing-scheme is loaded into the program and scaled along the length of one of the segments. Then, for control, the lengths of two or three segments are checked, and the pattern is printed. During the preparation of this article, the advice was tested in practice in the program Rhinoceros- the dimensions are completely consistent after scaling along a segment of 66 cm.

The sequence of assembling the sections of the dress.

The large gray numbers on the diagram indicate the areas of alignment and at the same time the order of actions.
The number 1 is missing - this is the processing of the back neckline with a hem or bias binding.
2 - hem of the front swing.
3 - processing of sleeve cuts. There is a seam along the shoulder seams along the right and left sleeves. An incision can be made in this seam if desired. The diagram for processing the cut and sewing the cuff is in the zip archive.
4-1 - laying folds on the front shoulders, connecting the shoulder seams.
4-2 - connecting seams of sleeves.
5 - side seam.
6 - hem the bottom of the sleeves.
7 - adjusting the drawstring for the elastic/lace.
8 - hem the bottom of the product.

Let's take a closer look at the knot of folding on the right shoulder section in front (4-1).

The drawing shows that points A and B on the right shoulder of the front should coincide with similar points on the right shoulder of the back.
Before you start sewing the connecting seams of the sleeves, lay out the fold - lines of blue color on the drawing. The inner edge of the fold is laid from the neckline deep into the shoulder. And only after this do we turn the whole hem allowance for the swing to the wrong side - in the drawing

it is indicated by a red line. The sequence of operations is indicated by numbers - 1 and 2.

Layout on fabric and resizing

The photo shows the layout on the fabric.

What can be done if the fabric is not enough in width or length? You can reduce the length of both sleeves and make cuffs from the fabric drops.
If your measurements are larger or smaller than those given in the example, you will need to either narrow or widen the pattern.
On the drawing

It shows which lines should be used to reduce or expand the pattern. Let's say you want to reduce it by 8 cm. Therefore, from the central axis in both directions you will need to set aside 1/4 of this value, and 1/4 from each side seam (cut out the shaded areas). That is, 2 cm from the center line in both directions, and 2 cm from each side seam. The pattern is enlarged in the same way - by sliding along the center line and adding along the side seams.

Options for various dresses and blouses are demonstrated in the forum thread

Natamoda showed an interesting skewed cut.
Its author is unknown. A client brought a ready-made regular knit blouse from her friend.
The pattern was taken from it, adjusted, and the dress was sewn.

Pattern

The pattern (photo) is quite simple. The dimensions in the pattern are made for a specific figure: chest girth (CG) - 88 cm, waist girth (W) - 66 cm, hip girth (H) - 100 cm, height 175 cm.
The dress is cut at the waist (LT).
Let's look at the drawing of the upper and lower halves of the dress separately.

The top of the dress (photo) consists of geometric shapes: a rectangle with a one-piece stand-up collar and a trapezoid-shaped sleeve. The drawing (photo above) shows the location of the shoulder, side, collar, folds, and where the fabric is folded. The sleeves at the bottom are very narrow - around the circumference of the wrist.

The bottom of the dress (photo) is a straight, slightly tapered skirt, made exactly to fit the figure, taking into account the stretch coefficient of the specific knitwear.
Actual dimensions are shown in the drawing.

Pattern adjustment

If you carefully examined the drawing (photo), it shows that the entire width of the fabric is required for the top of the dress - 1.40 m.
Therefore, adjustments to the top of this dress will only be in the length and size of the sleeves.
Look, holding a measuring tape to yourself, by how many centimeters you need to lengthen or shorten the length of the upper part relative to the size of the pattern. In the same way, check your required sleeve length and wrist width.

The adjustment to the bottom is slightly different. Take your skirt base, or a skirt pattern that you have already sewn from and are satisfied with the result. Wrap the jersey fabric around your hips and find a comfortable fit. Place marks or pins where you want the fabric to meet at the highest point of your hips. Measure this width using a measuring tape on the fabric. Measure the pattern along the LB and LT. Reduce the pattern along the side seams by as much as the fabric measurements are smaller than the actual pattern size for LB and LT.

Sewing a dress

There are not many seams in the dress (photo). It is only important to follow the assembly sequence.
Sew the shoulder and collar sections with one seam.
Sew on the sleeves.
Sew the side and sleeve seams with one seam.
Place folds on the shoulder and opposite side. Attach the pleats to the seams.
Fold half of the one-piece collar to the wrong side and attach it to the seam. On the second shoulder, where there is no seam, attach the collar using invisible stitches.
Sew the seams and darts of the skirt.
Sew the skirt to the top of the dress, sew a drawstring from thin fabric along this seam on the wrong side, and insert an elastic band into it.
Try on the dress. Place the elastic band in a place convenient for you and adjust the degree of its tension.
Hem the bottom of the dress and sleeves using a hand stitch or double needle.

Fabric consumption and properties

This model is sewn only from elastic fabric. When buying fabric in a store, put a couple of folds on it and see how beautifully this particular knitwear lies in the folds. Look at its stretch. Too elastic knitwear (with a high degree of stretch - 30% or more) is not suitable for this model.
If the fabric is 1.50m wide you will need 1.50m.
With a width of 1.40 m – 1.80 m.