Pattern for women's flannel shirt, size 52. Shirt pattern. Step by step construction. Important! Iron either the collar or the stand separately so that the collar does not lose its shape

In this material we will talk about modeling classic women's shirts. You will learn about the features of this type of product and the design options for individual components. And we offer you to sew such a universal model with an adjacent silhouette!

It’s no secret that we, women, borrowed many wardrobe elements from men - trousers, ties, T-shirts and shirts, a jacket as a variation on the theme of a man’s jacket, a coat as an interpretation of a military overcoat and much more... Many of us wear all this with pleasure, because that they value convenience and comfort!

The prototype of a women's shirt-cut blouse is the classic men's overshirt. Distinctive features of this type of clothing are:

• Symmetrical cut details
• Fastening to the top with a cut-off or one-piece placket with loops and buttons
• The sleeve, as a rule, is of a shirt type - with an increased width at the top and a reduced height of the collar (for tightly fitting models this is not always the case, but we’ll talk about this a little later)
• The bottom of the sleeve is made with a slit and is finished with a cuff with 1-2 loops and buttons.
• The back has a yoke, with the shoulder seam most often shifted towards the front
• Stand-up collar with a cut-off (less often - one-piece) stand

As for the shaping of the camp and the degree of fit, options are possible here.

This can be a shirt without the use of reliefs and darts, the so-called “flat cut” - more or less volume. To model such a shirt, you will need a dress pattern without darts, which you can use on the website according to your own measurements. And you can read more about modeling such a shirt in our material about “”.

In addition, it can be a shirt that follows the contours of a woman’s figure, with darts or reliefs. And here it is possible as an option that is less adjacent to the body,

or a more tightly fitting product:

The shirt, at the premiere of which we will learn today the intricacies of modeling this type of product, belongs to the second type - it has both waist darts and darts on the bulging chest, due to which a fairly tight fit is achieved. You can see the model features of our shirt in more detail in the following figure.

It is absolutely clear that the appearance of the shirt is regulated within rather strict limits. However, small variations in the form of design of the corners of the collar, the method of making the strap, the shape of the cuff and the technology for processing the cuts for it are still possible here.

Let's start analyzing the design of our shirt and, along the way, we will consider what other options for modeling this or that node were possible, so that in the future you can adjust the model as you wish.

Mill simulation

To model the waist of a shirt, we need pattern-basis of a dress with a semi-fitting silhouette with an increase of 5 cm to the chest semicircumference.

You can build it yourself according to your own measurements, or get it online using this one. To do this, you will need to enter your measurements on this page. You will find instructions on how to remove them correctly there. Your pattern will look something like the red and blue outlines in the following picture.

Preparing the base pattern

Step 1 . If your pattern is longer than necessary, first of all, cut it to the desired length - this is approximately 20-22 cm from the waistline.

Step 2 . We will not take into account the darts along the waistline and side reliefs marked on the pattern - later we will distribute their solution in a slightly different way. However, we will need to write down the value of the quantity Ib , marked on the drawing - depending on the sign, this will be an excess or deficiency in the hip area.

Step 3 . Expand the neck of the shelf and back by about 1 cm - they are shown in green in the drawing.

Step 4 . We will temporarily move the dart on the bulge of the chest on the shelf to the neckline.

Step 5 . We will close the dart for the convexity of the shoulder blades on the back (you can simply extend the shoulder line from the neckline to a distance equal to the total length of the shoulder on the back pattern). We will not mark the new contours of the dart, since its solution will partially go into relief between the details of the yoke and back, and due to the rest of the dart, the line of the back armhole will be slightly lengthened.

Adjusting shoulder and armhole lines

Step 6 . Let's deepen the armhole by 2 cm - to do this, lower the line under the armhole 2 cm down. Having indicated the width of the armhole (vertical dotted tangents in the drawing), mark its middle (red dot in the drawing).

Step 7 . Raise the shoulder line of the backrest by about 1.5 cm and lengthen it by 1-1.5 cm. And lower the shoulder line of the shelf by about 1.5 cm and also lengthen it by 1-1.5 cm. The extreme shoulder points are marked in red in the drawing .

Step 8 . Let's draw a new armhole line (shown in green) through the points marked in red in the drawing. Later we will remove a small section of this line to create a small relief in the area of ​​the shoulder blades between the yoke and back pieces.

Modeling the back yoke

Step 9 . Divide in half the segment of the mid-back line between the neck line and the old line under the armhole (point a on the drawing).

Step 10 . From the point a draw a horizontal line until it intersects with the armhole line. This will be the bottom line of the yoke - the line connecting it to the back.

Step 11 . Divide the yoke line in half (dot b ) and set aside 1.5 cm horizontally from this point towards the armhole (point With ).

Step 12 . Set aside 0.5 cm down the armhole line from the point where it intersects with the yoke line (point d ).

Step 13 . Draw the top line of the back (the line where it connects to the yoke) through dots a , With And d .

Bottom line design

Step 14 . Mark the side line of the shirt - this is a vertical line, lowered down from the point of the middle of the armhole width. Along this line up from the line indicating the length of the shirt, set aside approximately 5 cm.

Step 15 . Draw a smooth line for the bottom of the shirt, making a rise at the side line to the point marked in the previous paragraph.

Step 16 . Now it's time to take into account the magnitude Ib , which we measured and recorded in the second step of mill modeling. There are 3 options here:

• Magnitude Ib equal to zero. This option is shown in the previous drawing - in this case the bottom line is continuous.
• In case the value Ib positive surplus x And y A down.
• In case the value Ib negative(in the width of the pattern mesh along the hip line there is flaw), you will need to set aside this value evenly on both sides of the side line along the bottom line (points x And y ) and re-design the bottom lines as shown in the diagram b down.

Design of side lines and darts along the waist line

Step 17 . Draw a vertical from the point that bisects the line under the armhole between the line of the middle back and the armhole line - relative to this vertical we will draw the contours of the back dart.

Step 18 . The vertical line, relative to which we will draw the contours of the waist dart of the front, will be lowered down from the point of the center of the chest.

Step 19 . Determine the total solution of darts along the waistline. To do this, measure the width of the mesh on the pattern and compare it with your half-waist measurement St :

RTV = (Grid Width) – ( St + Increase)

In our case, increase along the waist line P =3 cm, and the total solution of waist darts will be equal to RTV = 47 – (31.7 + 3) = 12.3 cm.

Step 20 . Let's distribute the total solution of darts along the waist line as follows: 30% of the total solution will go to the back dart, 37% to the front dart, 13% to the relief of the side line of the back and 20% to the relief of the side line of the front. The distribution of the dart is shown in the drawing below.

Important Note : Perhaps such a distribution of darts may not be suitable for your figure - when most of the total solution is distributed on the shelf. You can only find out about this experimentally, or judge by the characteristics of the figure (for example, if the figure is curved, with the buttocks protruding strongly back). In this case, you can leave the distribution of darts the same as on the base pattern, only move the solution of the side reliefs to the new position of the side seam line.

Step 21 . Draw out the contours of the darts and side lines as shown in the figure. In this case, the dart on the back will end approximately 6 cm above the bottom line of the shirt, and on the front - on this line itself.

Step 22 . Place the flange along the side seam 5 cm down from the armhole line. Let's draw a line from this point to the top of the chest dart. This will be the line along which we will cut the pattern to transfer the dart to the bust to the side seam.

Step 23 . Transfer the dart to the bulge of the chest into the side seam and shorten it by about 2.5-3 cm.

Step 24 . The previous drawing shows a case where we did not have excess or deficiency of mesh width at the hip line.

• In case flaw there is a line along the hips (and we have already marked it in the 16th modeling step), the contours of the side lines will look as shown in the diagram b below.
• In case there is surplus width at the hips, you can simply draw the contours of the lateral lines through points X And at which we noted earlier. Or you can do it as shown in the diagram A below: distribute part of the excess at the side line, and transfer part to the lower contour of the waist dart on the front.

Modeling the fastener strap

Step 25 . From the line of the middle of the front - the half-skid line, which is shown in the drawing below with a red dotted line - we will set aside the width of the fastener strap evenly in both directions (approximately 2.5 cm) and draw parallel lines to the left and right of it through the resulting points. Thus, we outlined a fastener bar 2.5 centimeters wide.

Step 26 . Mark the position of the buttons (and, accordingly, the loops) on the half-skid line through uniform sections. There are 8 of them in this model and they are marked with crosses in the drawing.

Step 27 . Reflect the contours of the plank relative to the edge line of the bead.

There are two main types of fastener strips in shirts, depending on the method of their manufacture - these are stitched strips (shown in the figure A below) and one-piece (pictures b, V down):

• In case of execution stitching strip (A) the shelf part will need to be cut along the line indicated by the scissors sign in the previous drawing - in this way a strip part will be obtained, the fold line of which will be the line of the edge of the side. When cutting out, allowances are added to the cuts of this part. The diagram of its connection with the shelf is shown in the figure A, in this case, line 1 is the connecting line, and finishing line 2 is laid at a distance of 1-2 mm from the edge line of the bead.
• In our model one-piece plank, that is, we will cut out the entire shelf part along with the contours of the plank, not forgetting to add seam allowances. When making the strap, it is folded along the line of the edge of the side to the wrong side (Figure b) or on the front (Figure V) side and adjust it to the main part, having previously folded the seam allowance. Option shown in the picture V This can only be done if you use double-sided fabric, identical on both sides.

It should also be noted that the trim part is usually glued with an adhesive lining only if the product is made of very thin fabric, for example, chiffon.

Construction of the sleeve

This model has a shirt sleeve cut, which is characterized, first of all, by a reduced collar height. It is clear that in order to keep the length of the sleeve cap unchanged while reducing its height, it is necessary to increase some other parameter - and this is the width of the sleeve at the top. Severe deformation of the edge requires a corresponding change in the armhole - deepening it, increasing the length of the shoulder.

Such a sleeve is constructed with a minimal fit along the edge and is sewn into an open armhole. This means that the shoulder seams are connected first, then the sleeve is sewn into the armhole, and only then the side seams of the waist and sleeve are connected in one step.

Below are options for changing the parameters of the prime sleeve:

• In the picture A We see a model with a sleeve with a standard, non-reduced hem height, and the armhole is not deepened. In such a product, when the arms are lowered down, no folds form on the sleeves in the upper part
• In the picture b we see a sleeve with a reduced collar height, but the armhole is slightly deepened. As a result, such a product has loose folds and creases in the armhole area; when you raise your arms in a horizontal position, the folds straighten out. This is normal for a shirt-type sleeve, because it is due to this that freedom of movement is achieved.
• In the picture V we see a loose shirt without darts with a sleeve in which the size of the collar is reduced to almost nothing. This is achieved by significantly lengthening the shoulder; in fact, a design like a children's undershirt is obtained.

For more fitted shirt models, the height of the collar will vary within 1/3 - 1/4 of the armhole size. We will consider the construction of just such a sleeve further.

The initial data for constructing a drawing of a shirt sleeve are:

• Armhole length DP , measured on the mill drawing. In our case, it consists of the lengths of the following curves: the armhole of the front, the armhole section of the back yoke and the armhole section of the back itself. (In my example DP = 44.2 cm)
• Wrist circumference Ozap - a measurement taken from the figure for which the pattern is being drawn. (In my example Ozap = 15.2 cm)
• Arm length DRzap - a measurement taken from the figure for which the pattern is being drawn. Measured from the shoulder point to the wrist circumference line. (In my example DRzap = 57.8 cm)

Step 1 . Mark a point t0 and from it downward vertically set aside a distance equal to DRzap minus the width of the cuff plus 1.5 cm. The width of the cuff in our model will be equal to Shmange = 5.5 cm Mark a point t1 . An increase of 1.5 cm is necessary so that the sleeve does not fit tightly.

So, in our example: /t0;t1/ = DRzap – Shmange + 1.5 cm = 57.8 – 5.5 + 1.5 = 53.8 cm.

Step 2 . On the segment /t0;t1/ from the point t0 set down a distance equal to the height of the sleeve cap THIEF and mark with a dot t2 . The height of the sleeve collar in this model will be equal to a quarter of the length of the armhole plus the increase:

/t1;t2/ = THIEF = DP /4 + P

The increase for half-chest girth up to 42 cm inclusive will be 1 cm, for half-chest girth from 42 to 44 cm - 2 cm, up to 46 cm - 3 cm, up to 50 cm - 4 cm and so on. So, for our example, the height of the sleeve edge will be equal to THIEF = 44.2 /4 + 1 cm = 12 cm.

Step 3 . Through the point t2 draw a horizontal line. From the point t0 set aside distances equal to half the length of the armhole to this horizontal line and mark the points t3 And t4 . Line between points t3 And t4 called sleeve width at top.

In our example: /t0;t3/ = /t0;t4/ = DP /2 = 44.2/2 = 22.1 cm.

Step 4 . Divide the segments /t0;t3/ and /t0;t4/ into 4 sections each. At the resulting points, lay out segments perpendicular to the lines /t0;t3/ and /t0;t4/ (up or down from them) in accordance with the drawing below. Using the resulting points, draw a sleeve piping line.

Step 5 . From point t2 set aside horizontally to the left and right along half the circumference of the wrist plus an increase. Mark the points in these places t5 And t6 . In our model, we will take an increase to the wrist circumference of 6 cm, thus, the size of the segments in our example will be equal to:

/t1;t5/ = /t1;t6/ = 1/2 ( Ozap + P) = (15.2+6)/2 = 10.6 cm.

Step 6 . Draw the side lines of the sleeve between the points t3 And t5 , and also t4 And t6 slightly curved lines.

Step 7 . Draw a sewing line for the cuff between the points t5 And t6 , bending it slightly (about 0.7 cm) at the point t1 .

Step 8 . Divide the section of the cuff stitching line, located on the half of the sleeve facing the back, in half. From the resulting point up perpendicular to the stitching line, set aside 10-15 cm - this will be the sleeve cut line. From the beginning of the cut, the stitching of the cuff begins and ends, the construction of a drawing of which we will consider further.

Construction of the cuff

Cuffs may vary in width and angle design. If the cuff width is 8 cm or more, there are two loops (and, accordingly, buttons) on it. The cuff should fit fairly snugly, but there should still be enough space between the arm and the cuff. Approximately enough so that you can fit at least a couple of fingers under the cuff when buttoned.

The picture above shows the different types of cuffs:

• Cuffs with right angle (drawing b) are cut out in one piece with a fold
• For each cuff with rounded (drawings V,G) or truncated angle (figure A) you will need to cut out two parts

The cut under the cuff can also be designed in different ways:

• Cut processed bar (drawings A, b)
• In the case of a two-seam sleeve, processing is possible cut in sleeve seam
• Cut processed by type of edging (drawing G). You can find out more about this processing method in the material on the technology of sewing the shirt in question.

So, constructing a cuff drawing includes the following steps:

Step 1 . Measure the cuff stitching line on the sleeve drawing. Construct a rectangle with a length equal to the length of the cuff stitching line on the sleeve plus 2 cm. The width of the rectangle is equal to the width of the cuff - in our case it is 5.5 cm.

Step 2 . Finish the outer edge of the cuff with rounded corners. To do this, mark points at a distance of approximately 1.5 cm vertically and horizontally from the upper corners of the rectangle. Use these points to round the corners of the cuff.

Step 3 . Mark the lines where the sides of the cuff overlap each other when fastening. In the drawing they are shown as dotted segments located at a distance of 1 cm from both edges of the cuff. In the middle of these segments, mark the position of the button and its corresponding loop. On the left cuff the button will be on the right side, and on the right cuff on the left side.

Construction of the collar

The collar in a shirt can be of two types:

• Stand-up with one-piece stand(drawing A), the construction of which we have already discussed in the article on modeling
• Stand-up with cutting stand(drawings god), this is exactly the collar of our shirt model and we will consider it today

The collar stand height may vary (in the picture b shows a high rack, on V, G– racks of medium height). The higher the collar stand, the closer it should fit to the neck. Collars with low stand-ups and medium stand-ups may lag further behind the neck (Figure G), or to a lesser extent (Figure V) degrees.

The degree of fit of the collar to the neck depends on the curvature of the stand lines. A straighter stand-up line will cause the collar to lag behind the neck, and a more concave line will ensure that the collar fits snugly to the neck.

We have already discussed the option of a stand-up collar with a detachable stand-up in the lesson on modeling a shirt dress, you can see it at.

The collar, the construction of which we will consider, is shown in the figure V. Let's start by building a stand.

Building a stand:

Step 1 . The basis for construction is a rectangle with a length equal to the length of the neck, measured in the drawing, and a width equal to the height of the stand.

• Neck length Dgor will consist of the length of the back neck and the length of the shelf neck on the drawing . That is, in fact, this is half the length of the neck of the finished product.
• Rack height in the classical version can be taken equal to Sun = 3 – 3.5 cm. You can roughly calculate it using the formula Sun = Height/50. So, for a height of 170 cm, as in our example, the height of the stand will be 3.4 cm.

Step 2 . Mark a point on the long side of the rectangle a , which divides it in half. And on the short one - mark the point b , which divides the side in a ratio of 4 to 3 (as an option, you can mark the middle of the segment, and then lower this point 0.5 cm down).

Step 3 . Through dots a And b we will build a line for stitching the stand into the neck. To do this, through the points a And b draw a smooth line and extend it this distance to the point c so that the stitching line of the stand (shown in the drawing in dark blue) is equal in length to the length of the neck Dgor plus half the width of the fastener bar.

Step 4 . Through the point With Let's draw a perpendicular to the stitching line of the stand. On this perpendicular we will put the height of the stand up and draw it through the points d And f a smooth line, similar to the line of stitching in the stand.

Step 5 . Segment cd divide in proportion 2 to 1, and from the point d to the left you need to set aside at least half the width of the fastener bar (plus 0.1 - 0.3 cm), put a dot in this place e . Through the received points from the point With to the point e Let's draw a smooth line for the ledge of the stand.

Distance between points d And e can vary from half to the full width of the fastener bar. In the first case, the collar will look like in the picture V with a picture of collars above and a photo of a white collar below, and in the second - as in the picture G and a photo of the black collar below.

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Step 6 . Let's mark the line of the middle of the fastener - this is a segment that runs parallel to the segment cd at a distance of half the width of the fastener bar (shown in the drawing with a dotted line). In the middle of this segment, mark the position of the button (and, accordingly, the loop) with a cross.

Thus, the construction of the collar stand is complete! Line fe is the line for sewing the collar into the stand-up collar. Let's move on to building the collar itself.

Construction of the collar itself

Step 7 . Let's draw from the point e horizontal (shown in the drawing with a dotted line) and reflect relative to it the line of sewing the collar into the stand fe – line received f1 e .

Step 8 . From point f1 put the width of the collar up, mark the point g . In the classic version, it is usually 5–6 cm. In our model, we will take the width of the departure to be 2 cm greater than the height of the stand: Shaw = Sun + 2 cm = 3.4 + 2 = 5.4 cm.

Step 9 . At the intersection of a horizontal line from a point g and verticals from a point e mark the point e1 . Let's move about 1 cm horizontally from it to the right and mark the point g1 .

Step 10 . Let's draw the lines of the end and departure of the collar. In general, this is done in an arbitrary manner, based on the characteristics of the model - the corner can be more pointed or completely rounded, the ends of the collar can be longer, etc. In our model, we will design the collar lines as follows: connect the dots e And g1 and along this line from the point e set aside a distance equal to the width of the departure plus 1 cm. Mark a point in this place h . Let's connect the dots g And h a concave smooth (almost straight) line - the line of departure of the collar is obtained.

Hello.
In this article we will learn how to build a shirt design.
Shirt-cut clothing is primarily distinguished by the parameters and configuration of the armhole. The dimensions of the shirt armhole are larger than the armhole dimensions of the basic dress design, and the configuration of the shirt armhole is more widened and deepened. Therefore, the details of the shirt pattern - the back and the front - also differ in their parameters and configuration.
There are two ways to construct a shirt design: use constructive modeling of the basic dress pattern, or use the developed methodology for constructing a shirt design. In this article we will look at the second option.
To create a shirt pattern we will need the following measurements:

Name of measurements and symbols	cm
Half neck circumference (Ssh)
Half chest circumference (Сг)	40,5
Half waist (St)
Half hip circumference (Sb)	44,8
Back length to waist (Lts)
Chest Height (Vg)
Shoulder Length (Dp)
Product length (Di)

(you can see how to measure your figure correctly in the article on taking measurements). The table shows my measurements as an example, so do not forget to substitute your parameters into the formulas.

In this cutting technique we will consider two shirt silhouettes: semi-adjacent And direct. The shirt has a semi-fitting silhouette and suggests the presence of chest and waist darts, while the product is quite loose and dynamic. The shirt has a straight silhouette and has no darts, and the product itself is looser. As a result, the cut of these two silhouettes differs not only in the allowances for a loose fit, but also in some construction structures. To create a shirt pattern with a straight and semi-fitted silhouette, we will use the following allowances for a loose fit:

The increase along the chest line between the design details is distributed as follows:
Let's prepare a blank sheet of paper, the length of which is 5-10 cm longer than the measurement of the length of the product.

Drawing grid
Product length and width. Stepping back 5 cm from the top edge of a sheet of paper, draw a rectangle AA 1 H 1 H, where sides AN and A 1 H 1 are equal to the measurement of the length of the product, and sides AA 1 and HH 1 are equal to the measurement of the half-circumference of the chest with an increase for a loose fit (AN = A 1 H 1 =Di=68cm; AA 1 =NN 1 =Cr+CO=40.5+5.5=46cm). Please note, in this example I used an increase for a semi-fitting silhouette; if you are drawing a straight silhouette, then do not forget to substitute the corresponding allowances for a loose fit into the formulas (see the table above).

Armhole depth. From point A downwards in a straight line we put aside 1/3 of the measurement of the half-circumference of the chest + CO (see the table of increases) and put point D (segment AG = 1/3Cr + CO = 40.5: 3 + 9 = 22.5 cm). From point G to the right we draw a horizontal line until it intersects with the segment A 1 H 1, denoting the intersection point as G 1.

Back width. From point G we set aside 1/3 of the measurement of the half-circumference of the chest + CO (see the table for the distribution of the increase along the chest line) and we get point G 2 (segment GG 2 = 1/3Cr + CO = 40.5: 3 + 3 cm = 16.5 cm) . From point G 2 upward we will construct a perpendicular to the intersection with side AA 1, we will denote the intersection point as P.

Armhole width. From G 2 to the right, we will set aside 1/4 of the half-chest girth measurement + CO (see the table for the distribution of the increase along the chest line) and mark the point G 3 (G 2 G 3 = 1/4Cr + CO = 40.5/4 + 0.5 = 10.6 cm). From point G 3 upward we draw a perpendicular to the intersection with side AA 1, and denote the intersection point as P 1.

Waistline. From point A downwards, take the measurement of the length of the back to the waist and place point T (AT=Dts=40cm). From point T we draw a horizontal line to the intersection with side A 1 H 1 and denote the point of intersection T 1.

Hip line. From point T downwards, put half the measurement of the length of the back to the waist and put point B (TB=1/2Dts=40:2=20cm). From point B we draw a horizontal line to the intersection with the segment A 1 H 1, mark the intersection point B 1.

Side line. Divide the segment G 2 G 3 in half, denote the intersection point G 4 (G 2 G 4 = G 4 G 3), and lower the perpendicular from this point to the intersection with the bottom lines, denote the intersection point H 2, and the intersection points with the waist lines and hips - T 2 and B 2.

Auxiliary armhole points. Let us divide the segments G 2 P and G 3 P 1 into three equal parts, denoting the lower division points as P 2 and P 3 (see figure).

Building the back
Back neck cut. From point A to the right, we will set aside 1/3 of the neck half-girth measurement + 0.5 cm (for all silhouettes) and get point A 2 (AA 2 = 1/3Сш+СО=15:3+0.5=5.5 cm). Up from point A 2 we will set aside 3 cm (for all silhouettes) and mark point A 3 (A 2 A 3 = 3 cm). Let's draw the neck line with a smooth line, maintaining a right angle at point A.

Shoulder section of the back. From point P downwards we will set aside 3 cm (for all silhouettes) and place point P 4 (PP 4 = 3 cm). Now let’s connect points A 3 and P4, and on the resulting straight line from point A 3 we will set aside the measure of shoulder length + CO (see the table of increases) and put point P 5 (A 3 P 5 = Dp + CO = 13 + 1.5 = 14 .5cm).

Back armhole cut. Let's connect points P 2 and G 4 with a dotted line and divide this segment in half, and from the division point downward we will put 2 cm at a right angle and place point P 6.

Let's form a smooth concave line to cut the armhole, connecting points P 5, P 2, P 6 and G 4.

Back yoke. Let's put 8 cm down from point A and put point K (AK = 8 cm). From point K to the right we draw a horizontal line until it intersects with the back armhole line, and we denote the intersection point as K 1.

Down from point K 1 along the armhole line, set aside 1 cm and place point K 2 (K 1 K 2 = 1 cm). Connect point K 2 with a smooth line to the yoke line.

Constructing the front of a shirt with a straight silhouette
Shelf neck cut. From point G 1 up, we will set aside half the measurement of the half-circumference of the chest and place point P (G 1 P = 1/2Cr = 40.5:2 = 20.3 cm). From point P to the left we draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length.

Now from point P to the left and down we will set aside 1/3 of the neck half-girth measurement + 0.5 cm and mark points P 1 and P 2 (PP 1 = PP 2 = 1/3Сш+СО = 15:5 + 0.5 = 5.5 cm ). We connect points P 1 and P 2 with a dotted line, which we divide in half and from point P through this division point we set aside 1/3 of the half-girth of the neck measurement + 0.5 cm and get point P 3 (PP 3 = 1/3Сш+СО = 15:5 +0.5=5.5cm).
Let's draw a smooth line to cut the neck through points P 1, P 3 and P 2, maintaining a right angle at point P 2.

Shoulder section of the shelf. Let's build an auxiliary line by connecting point P 1 with the upper dividing point of the segment PG 2 (see figure), on this line from point P 1 to the left we will set aside the measure of shoulder length + CO and place point P 7 (P 1 P 7 = Dp + CO =13+2=15cm). Please note that now we are considering the construction of the front of a shirt with a straight silhouette, so the increase in the formula corresponds to the increase for a straight silhouette.

Front armhole cut. Let's connect points P 3 and G 4 with a dotted line, divide this segment in half, lower a perpendicular of 2 cm from the division point and mark point P 8.

Let's draw a smooth line to cut the armhole, connecting points P 7, P 3, P 8 and G 4.

This completes the construction of a straight silhouette shirt.

Our pattern is ready!

Construction of a shirt front with a semi-adjacent silhouette
Shelf neck cut. From point G 1 up, we will set aside half the measurement of the half-circumference of the chest + 0.5 cm and place point P (G 1 P = 1/2Cr + CO = 40.5: 2 + 0.5 = 20.8 cm). From point P to the left we draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length.

Down and to the left of point P, set aside 1/3 of the neck half-girth measurement + 0.5 cm and mark points P 1 and P 2 (PP 1 = PP 2 = 1/3Csh + CO = 15:5 + 0.5 = 5.5 cm) . Let's connect points P 1 and P 2 with a dotted line, which we will divide in half and from point P through this division point we will set aside 1/3 of the half-girth of the neck measurement + 0.5 cm and get point P 3 (PP 3 = 13/Сш+СО=15:5 +0.5=5.5cm). Let's draw a smooth line to cut the neck through points P 1, P 3 and P 2, maintaining a right angle at point P 2.

Shoulder cut and chest dart. To the left of point P 1 we put 4 cm and put point B (P 1 B = 4 cm), down from point B we put 1 cm, we get point B 1 (BB ​​1 = 1 cm). Let's connect points P 1 and B 1.

Let's add the lengths of the segments PP 1 and P 1 B (5.5 + 4 = 9.5 cm), subtract 1 cm from this sum (9.5-1 = 8.5 cm), put the resulting value to the left of point G 1 and place point G 5 (G 1 G 5 = PP 1 + P 1 V-1 = 8.5 cm). Connect points G 5 and B 1, segment G 5 B 1 is the right side of the chest dart.

Now let's build an auxiliary line by connecting point B with the upper dividing point of the segment PG 2. Draw a vertical line upward from point G 4 until it intersects with the auxiliary line; we denote the intersection point as O.

To the right of point O, on the auxiliary line we plot the length of the shoulder with an increase for loose fit minus the length of the segment P 1 B and place point B 2 (OB 2 = Dp + SO-P 1 B = 13 + 1.5-4 = 10.5 cm) . Next, from point G 5 up through point B 2, we draw a segment whose length is equal to the right side of the dart and we get point B 3 (G 5 B 3 = G 5 B 1).

Down from point O we will set aside 3 cm and place point O 1 (OO 1 = 3 cm). Let's connect points O 1 and B 3 with a thin line.

From point B 3 to the left along a thin line, set aside the length of the shoulder with an increase for loose fit minus the length of the segment P 1 B and put point P 7 (B 3 P 7 = Dp + SO-P 1 B = 13 + 1.5-4 = 10 .5cm).

Front armhole cut. Let's connect points P 3 and G 4 with a dotted line, divide this segment in half, lower a perpendicular of 2 cm from the division point and mark point P 8. Let's draw a smooth line to cut the armhole, connecting points P 7, P 3, P 8 and G 4.

Calculation of the solution of darts along the waist line. From the width of the product, we subtract the measurement of the semi-circumference of the waist with an increase for a loose fit (AA 1 - (St + CO) = 46 - (30 + 3) = 13 cm), the resulting result is the sum of the solution of all darts along the waist line, where
the size of the front dart opening = 0.25 of the total dart opening (13 x 0.25 = 3.3 cm),
side dart opening size = 0.45 of the total opening (13 x 0.45 = 5.8 cm),
back dart opening size = 0.3 of the total opening (13 x 0.3 = 3.9 cm).

Determining the width of a shirt along the hips. Now, from the measurement of the half-girth of the hips with an increase for a loose fit, we subtract the width of our product (Sb + CO-AA 1 = 44.8 + 4-46 = 2.8 cm), the resulting result is the amount of expansion of the product along the hip line.

Side cut. From point T 2 along the waist line to the right and left, we will set aside half of the side dart solution (we calculated its value a little higher) and mark the points that we will connect with straight lines to point G 4.

From point B 2 along the hip line to the right and left, we will set aside half the amount of expansion of the product along the hip line and put points that we will connect with smooth convex lines to the opening points of the side dart at the waist and extend these lines until they intersect with the bottom line.

Construction of a waist dart on the back. To the right of point T, set aside 1/3 of the neck half-girth measurement + 0.5 cm and place point T 3 (TT 3 = 1/3Сш+СО=15:3+0.5=5.5). From point T 3 to the right, we plot the value of the entire back dart opening and get point T 4 (T 3 T 4 = 3.9 cm).

Divide the segment T 3 T 4 in half, and draw a perpendicular through the division point, not reaching 6 cm to the chest line, and 12 cm to the hip line, this perpendicular is the midline of the dart. Let's connect points 6 and 12 with the tuck solution points T 3 and T 4.

Clarification of the waist line and the bottom line of the shelf. From point T 1 we will set aside 1 cm downwards, connect the resulting point with the notch along the waist line along the side cut, maintaining a right angle at the point 1 cm. We will also set aside 1 cm down from point H 1 and connect it with a smooth line to the bottom line point along the side cut, while the angle at the 1 cm point should be straight.

Construction of a waist dart on a shelf. From the value of the segment G 1 G 5, subtract 1.5 cm, put the resulting value to the left of the 1 cm point along the new waist line and place the point T 5 (1T 5 = G 1 G 5 -1.5 = 8.5-1.5 = 7 cm ). Let's connect points T 5 and G 5.

Along the new waist line to the left of point T 5, we will set aside the size of the front dart opening and place point T 6 (T 5 T 6 = 3.3 cm). Along the line G 5 T 5 down from the point G 5 we will set aside 6 cm, and connect the resulting point to T 6.

Divide the segment T 5 T 6 in half, and from the division point we lower the perpendicular, not reaching the waist line 12 cm. Now connect point 12 with points T 5 and T 6.

This completes the construction of the shirt.

If the shirt model has a button fastener, then the front must be extended along the neck line and the bottom line by the same distance - 1.5-2 cm and a new cut line for the front must be drawn. The resulting line is a half-skid line, and on the middle line there are buttons on one part of the shelf and buttonholes on the second part.
Fastener cuts can be processed in several ways:
Stitched strip ,

The width of which is twice the width of the half-skid, the length of the strip is equal to the length of the shelf along the half-skid line, while the upper cut of the strip repeats the cut of the neck of the shelf along the entire width of the strip.

One-piece plank ,

Its configuration is completed by extending the line of the bottom of the shelf by twice the width of the half-skid, and then a vertical straight line is drawn upward from the resulting point. The neck line on the bar is drawn symmetrically to the neck of the shelf relative to the half-skid line. When sewing a shirt with a one-piece placket, the placket itself is folded along the half-skid line to the wrong side of the product.

Supat clasp

It is a secret fastener; the buttons in such a fastener are hidden and are not visible from the front side of the product. The configuration of such a fastener is completed from a one-piece strip, extending the bottom line of the product to a length equal to twice the width of the strip. As a result, three widths of the plank are obtained along the bottom line; a vertical straight line is drawn upward from each width. The line of the neck of the fastener is drawn symmetrically relative to the line of the first strap. Along the half-skid line of the shirt, the fastener is bent to the wrong side, along the next vertical line the fastener is bent, and along the next vertical line the fastener is folded back to the wrong side and the cut line of the front (on the fastener) is stitched on the wrong side of the product. The fastener is built on only one part of the shelf, on which the buttonholes are located, and on the part with buttons only a one-piece placket is built.

The Grasser design and sewing bureau offers high-quality patterns for women's shirts of various styles, created by professional designers and fashion designers. All patterns correspond to the sizes according to the GOST standard, are made in pdf format and are ready for use. It is enough to print them on a wide-format plotter or a regular printer on A4 sheets, and then cut and glue them.

The shirt patterns are unique, created in accordance with the latest fashion trends, but at the same time are easy to sew even for novice seamstresses. Using our patterns, you will create your own exclusive wardrobe.

How to Buy and Use a Shirt Pattern

1. Select any model you like from those presented in the catalog.

3. Place the pattern in the virtual cart.

4. Pay the cost by choosing a payment method convenient for you.

5. Receive the file by email or download it from your personal account.

The resulting pattern can be printed in two ways: with a regular printer on A4 sheets or in full size on a wide-format plotter. For your convenience, the pattern is accompanied by a memo with sewing recommendations, including material consumption, recommended type of fabric, tips on accessories, and more.

Pay attention! All product details are given with allowances for processing.

All you have to do is take your measurements correctly, following our instructions.

Shirt pattern: advantages of our models

• Convenient pattern design. The patterns presented in the catalog are so carefully designed and simple that they allow not only experienced, but also novice seamstresses to sew shirts.
• Fashion products. We follow the trend, producing models that correspond to the latest trends. We regularly update the catalog to ensure that you always have new items in your wardrobe.
• Perfect Fit. Each pattern has undergone practical testing. The models were sewn and tested for fit and comfort of wearing. Therefore, we guarantee that you will be able to sew a fashionable and practical item yourself.
• Opportunity for creativity. By purchasing a shirt pattern in our online store, you can not only sew it yourself using a ready-made pattern, but also make any changes based on your body shape and personal preferences: options for modeling cuffs, patterns for turning sleeves, or adjusting side seams.

Shirt patterns from the Grasser bureau are simple and easy to use and will be an excellent help when sewing. A wide range of sizes: from 38 to 56, will allow you to choose the right pattern for a petite girl and a respectable lady.

Using our patterns, you can easily sew stylish clothes for everyday work and holidays.

pompa.ru

The women's model of the shirt (classic shirt) is an interpretation of the men's outerwear. The femininity of the style is achieved through standard or raised darts, variable proportions that match the figure, and the ability to model the cut.

Features of the cut

• Darts formed in the waist and chest area can be classic or embossed. With their help, the silhouette of the product is narrowed.
• Fitting the model according to the figure becomes relevant.
• Changes in proportions are associated with a decrease in the length of the sleeves and bottom of the product.
• Modeling allows you to create a variety of configurations for the collar, fastener, and bottom design of a women’s shirt.

The pattern for creating a women's shirt is built on the basis of a simple (men's) shirt cut, by changing and adding fragments of the construction. Or it is created from scratch based on precise measurements.

A men's shirt, sewn according to modern sewing standards, is characterized by other characteristics.

• Symmetry of construction fragments.
• Fastener along the entire length of the front.
• Sleeve with upper extension and low edging.
• The end of the sleeve has a slit and a cuff.
• Yoke on the back.
• Shoulder seam located closer to the front.
• Turn-down stand-up collar (can be cut-off or one-piece).

Modeling options

lekala.co

The design of the base model varies mainly around the degree of fit of the product to the body and the variety of its configurations.

• A flat cut without darts or raised areas is made on the basis of a standard dress pattern with a straight, loose silhouette.
• A piece with a fitted silhouette is created based on a pattern of a classic model, historically assigned to the men's wardrobe, or it is built according to exact measurements using a construction grid.

As a result of using one of the two modeling methods, the product will be equipped with darts at the waist and chest area. The planting density will increase. The design of collar edges, trims and methods of forming cuffs may be different.

Modeling based on dress

Changes are being made to the pattern of a women's dress model with a not too tight silhouette. In this case, add 5 cm to the size of the chest semicircle.

Model basis

1. Shorten the base pattern according to the new length measurement. It is not recommended to make a cut shorter than 20 cm from the waist line.
2. Measure the extra or missing centimeters at the hip circumference level.
3. Make the neckline wider at the back and front (+1 cm).
4. Move the dart from the chest area closer to the neckline.
5. Close the fold to ensure comfortable positioning of the shoulder blades. To do this, extend the shoulder contour, starting from the neckline, by an amount equal to the full length of the shoulder of the back part.
6. Part of the solution of the resulting dart will fall under the wedge passing between the yoke and the back of the cut. The contour of the back armhole will become longer because of this.
7. Make the armhole 2 cm deeper, lowering the contour passing under it. Measure the width of the armhole and find its center.

Yoke

1. Raise the shoulder line of the back by 1.5 cm and make it longer by the same amount. Lower the contour of the shoulder in the area of ​​the shelf and lengthen it by 1.5 cm.
2. Get a new armhole line.
3. Divide the fragment of the midline of the central part of the back between the neckline and the previous contour of the armhole in half.
4. Draw a horizontal line until it intersects the armhole contour. This line will connect the yoke with the back.
5. Divide the yoke line in two. Place 1.5 cm horizontally from the last mark in the direction of the armhole.|
6. Measure 0.5 cm along the armhole line, towards the bottom, starting from the intersection mark with the yoke fragment.
7. Decorate the top of the back.
8. Mark the side shirt cut, lowering the vertical from the mark of the center of the armhole width. Draw a 5-centimeter segment upward along the same line.

Bottom of the product

luciana-shop.ru

1. Smoothly shape the bottom outline. Raise the cut at the side line.
2. Depending on the previously recorded amount of excess in the hip area, the bottom of the product is shaped. If this value is zero, draw the lower curve continuously. Provided there is a positive surplus, put this value on the left and right sides, starting on the side cut, along the bottom line. If there is not enough width in the hip area, set aside the appropriate number of centimeters from the side cut along the bottom in both directions and re-shape the bottom of the product.
3. From the point dividing the straight line passing under the armhole in two, draw a vertical line. In accordance with its location, mark the dart on the back.
4. From the center of the chest, draw the vertical line necessary to construct the waist dart.
5. Calculate the total opening of the waist darts by measuring the width of the mesh on the construction. Compare the resulting figure with the existing half-waist measurement.
6. Distribute the value of the total dart solution at the waist. 30% of this figure will be the dart on the back part. 37% will go into the tuck of the shelf. 13% will be added to the relief of the side cut of the back, and 20% – to the relief of the side contour of the front part of the cut. The distribution of darts is individual for each body type; they can be transferred from the base pattern without changes.
7. The back dart should end 6cm above the bottom edge. The tucked fragment of the shelf will fit directly onto the part itself.
8. Measure 5 cm along the seam of the front side down from the armhole mark. From the resulting point, draw a straight line to the top of the dart in the chest area. Cut the cut along this mark. Move the dart to the side section of the chest area.
9. Determine the dart in the chest area on the side seam and shorten it by 3 cm.

Clasp

shoppingpay.ru

If the shirt is supposed to be fastened with buttons, the front must be extended along the contour of the neckline and along the bottom edge by about 2 cm. Bring out a new section of the front. This will create a half-skid line. Buttons and loops will be located along the center line on different parts.

1. From the center of the front (it is marked by the half-skid line) to the left and right sides, set aside the width of the strap for the future fastener (about 2.5 cm). Draw parallels to the left and right through the received marks. This fragment will be used as a strip for a future fastener.
2. On the half-skid line, outline the location of the buttons at regular intervals.
3. The contours of the trim detail should be reflected relative to the edge edge line.

Plank

A button fastener is a stitched placket or a one-piece piece.

1. If the part is stitched, cut off the flange. Then the fold line will be the outermost straight line. Add allowances to the plank cuts. Place a finishing stitch 2 mm from the side edge.
2. The one-piece strip, being a part of the shelf, needs allowances. Fold it inside out or right side out, depending on the location of the side edge. The strip is sewn onto the base.
3. If the item is sewn from thin fabric (silk, chiffon), it is recommended to glue the strip with a corresponding piece of fabric impregnated with adhesive.

Sleeve

wellconstruction.ru

The reduced height of the collar of a classic shirt during modeling must be preserved by reducing the sleeve height. If the model is very close to the body, the height of the sleeve cap can be 1/4 of the armhole size.

1. Extend the sleeve at the top. After this, you will need to deepen the armhole and lengthen the shoulder.
2. Sew in the sleeve, joining the shoulder seams and inserting it into the armhole.
3. Combine the side sections of the base with the sleeves.

The sleeve for a ladies' shirt can be made according to a separate drawing.

Construction of the sleeve

To create a drawing, the length of the future armhole, wrist circumference, and arm length are determined.

1. From the starting point of construction, draw a straight line vertically down, equal to the length of the arm (minus the width of the future cuff) with an increase of 1.5 cm so that the sleeve lies freely and does not stretch.
2. From the first point downwards, set aside the value of the height of the sleeve coverage.
3. Draw a horizontal line that will go through the third pattern mark.
4. From the initial cut mark to the resulting horizontal line, set aside several segments equal to the value of the armhole length, divided in two.
5. The segment between the two points obtained will be equal to the width of the upper part of the sleeve.
6. Divide each of the resulting lengths into 4 equal parts. From the new points, draw perpendiculars up or down to form the edging of the part.
7. From mark No. 2 to the left and right in the horizontal direction, set aside the values ​​of half the circumference of the wrist.
8. Decorate the sleeve sides with curved curves.
9. Use a smooth outline to mark the line along which the cuff will be sewn.
10. Divide in two that part of the cuff stitching contour that occupies the sleeve half located closer to the back.
11. From the new mark, draw a 15-centimeter segment perpendicularly upward, towards the stitching area. This will mark where the part will be cut.
12. Stitch the cuff at the beginning of the cut.

Cuff

Cuff configurations vary in width and corner design. If the width reaches 8 cm, the element is equipped with two buttons and two loops.

• A rectangular cuff is cut out in the form of one piece with a fold.
• The cuff, the corner of which is rounded or truncated, is folded into two parts.

The part is cut and shaped in several ways.

1. Using a plank.
2. Inside two-seam sleeve.
3. With the help of edging.

Collar

The shirt collar can be a turn-down collar with a one-piece or cut-off stand. The stand (height) varies in this design. A high-stand collar should fit closer to the body. Low or medium may lag somewhat.

The degree of fit of the collar part is also influenced by the curvature of the lines. Straight contours provide a certain lag, and concave contours provide fit.

sewingadvisor.ru

Having started to connect the seams sequentially, the allowances are processed with a sewing-type stitch. At this stage, wet and heat treatment of the workpiece should be carried out.

1. On the back part, first of all, sew reliefs running vertically.
2. Make darts for the shelf.
3. Attach the yoke pieces to the front and back pieces.
4. The front part is equipped with pockets and flaps.
5. Connect the seams on the sides.
6. Sew strips for fastening to the edges of the shelf fragments.
7. Bring the sleeves together at the elbows until the cut necessary to make the fastener begins.
8. Process the sleeve cuts using strips. Sew the bottom sleeve stitches. Attach cuffs.
9. Sew the collar into the neckline.

Hello. I will create a pattern for a women's shirt based on the dress.

The shirt has a number of characteristic features: a loose armhole, wide sleeves, yokes, a stand-up collar, cuffs. For me personally, a 100% shirt is wide with the sleeves down. Recently, these are quite rare and are passed off as shirts as blouses with dropped sleeves, stylized as a shirt. This is exactly the option I will do.

The shirt will be loose-fitting, without waist darts.

My foundation

I changed the color of the lines and moved the halves apart.

• I transfer half of the raster of the shoulder dart on the back to the armhole.

I have a 2 cm dart on the back. I place a perpendicular (approximately) on the armhole from the base of the dart. An incision is made and the armhole is moved apart by 1 cm.

• If you open it on the back, you need to open it on the shelf too. Without hesitation, I open the armhole on the shelf by 1 cm too.

If the chest volume is large, you can open twice as much as on the back.

• I lengthen the shoulder line by 1 - 2 cm.
• I shift the side seam by 2 cm.
• I lower the bottom of the armhole by 2 cm.

Values ​​may of course vary.

• I'm drawing a new armhole.

I clean the drawing from unnecessary lines.

After modeling the armhole, I build the sleeve

You can model the base sleeve in this way:

Yoke

• I close the rest of the shoulder dart into a yoke.

I extend the dart to the yoke line.

I close the dart.

Transfer of chest dart

I draw a new dart line randomly from the base of the dart.

On the fabric, the dart closes about 3 cm short of the very center of the chest.

Shifting the shoulder line forward

The shirt is characterized by moving the shoulder line forward to the front. I transfer 2 cm.

Plank, bottom

From the middle of the shelf (in the picture below I made the middle line dotted) I set aside 1.5 cm to the fold and another 3.5 cm for a one-piece strip.

The bottom was raised on the side to wear the shirt for graduation.

Finished pattern

Pattern with allowances.

Using this pattern, this straight dress - a shirt - was sewn. On the girl it looks very loose, this is because the dress is on me, and I took a photo of it on my niece. I'm a little bigger.