How pants should fit on a woman. How to choose the right men's sports pants? How should men's trousers fit?

Classic pants

1. If you find it difficult to choose the length of your trousers, take trousers with a small fold at the bottom, so that the back of your shoes is half covered.
2. If you squat down and feel too tight/wide, it’s not your size.
3. If you can’t find the size, then look for another manufacturer. The pattern and cut are different for everyone. Perhaps you will have luck with another fashion designer.
4. If possible, avoid folds in the waistband; they make people look overweight.

The length of the trousers depends on their width. The wider the trousers, the longer they should be. Width classic trousers the bottom is 2/3 of the length of the shoe, i.e. One third of the shoe should be visible. For such trousers, the length at the back can reach half the height of the heel or cover 2/3 of the heel. The front of the trousers should lie on the shoe and form one crease. If the trousers are without cuffs, then the hemline has a slope: the trousers are slightly longer in the back than in the front. If trousers have cuffs, the bottom of the trousers should be straight (parallel to the floor). The width of the cuffs in trousers is from 3 to 5 cm.

Wrong length!

1. The length of the trouser leg should slightly cover the boot, ideally it should reach the middle of the boot. At the back it should be to the middle of the heel.
2. Pants falling over shoes should not form more than one fold.
3. Pants should be of such length that socks do not show through. But when a man sits down, his socks are visible anyway. Therefore, there is something about them separate rule: they should be matched to the trousers and be of such length that bare legs are not visible - this is bad manners.

Chinos, khakis and corduroys

More casual trousers, such as chinos, khakis or corduroys, should be slightly more fitted than dress trousers. In addition, they can be worn 3 to 4 centimeters below the waist. However, it is worth paying attention to this point. If you wear chinos to work and fit the Business casual or Smart casual style, then the length and width of the trousers should be closer to the classic style. If you choose casual style- then the trousers can be chosen tapered and shorter, even slightly revealing the ankle. Or vice versa, wider and longer, so that a fold is formed at the bottom.

1. When choosing the length of trousers, you should proceed from the dress code. The larger the fold at the bottom, the more informal the dress code.
2. Pants should be tight-fitting, so don't be alarmed if your pants feel a little tight when squatting. This is fine.
3. Don't worry if your pockets protrude a little when squatting. This is normal for chinos, khakis or corduroys.
4. Avoid folds at the waist; the two-finger rule is also relevant here.

Jeans

Perhaps the most informal of all pants (we don’t take shorts into account). There are many options for how jeans should fit correctly. Basically, jeans are worn even lower than chinos. On most people, jeans that are slightly tapered at the hem look good. They should be slightly tight if we are talking about fashion and beauty. To be free, if we are talking about comfort.

1) To choose correctly men's trousers, after trying them on, you need to walk at least a couple of steps. They should be as comfortable as possible. It is believed that you can fit two fingers into the waistband of “comfortable” jeans. Usually, after you have walked, it is easier to understand whether these are “your” pants or not.

2) An important nuance - trousers should be held at the waist, not at the hips. This is not just a tribute to classics or fashion, but an aid in the visual correction of the figure. By nature, a man's belly is somewhat convex, and it is precisely the trousers that softly fit it and hide this small flaw. If the trousers hang on the hips, the emphasis will fall on the stomach.

3) If dress trousers have pockets, then check that they do not protrude, as this deprives the image of elegance and causes an association with a boy who has stuffed everything into his pockets. In general, trouser pockets are intended only for keys or a wallet. For everything else, there is a briefcase or some other bag.

4) It is also worth paying attention to the man’s physique in order to emphasize his advantages and gracefully hide his figure flaws. Eg, full man Straight trousers without creases and with wide legs are more suitable, and thin tall man- trousers with cuffs and pleats at the waist that will help hide excessive thinness.

5) Do not forget that the trousers will not hold up on their own, and you will need a belt or suspenders. The classic option is, of course, a belt. For this, 6 loops are usually made on trousers. If there are fewer loops, the pants may fit a little worse. The color of the belt should match the color of the shoes, and should not contrast too much with the color of the trousers. The more modest the belt looks, the better, of course. For extravagance, you can also wear suspenders, but do not forget that you need to choose one thing. Wearing both at the same time is a sign of terrible taste. By the way, the color of the suspenders should match the color of the tie (or be as close in tone as possible)

6) Since trousers deteriorate much faster than jackets, it is worth buying them together, but it is better to take two pairs of trousers for one jacket. It is not necessary that the trousers and jacket be the same color. In this regard, you can experiment pleasantly, but you should not get carried away so as not to look vulgar.

Look interesting video about trousers:

If we look at regular classic straight trousers (or their tapered models) in online stores or on the shelves, we will see some kind of shape for different sizes.

And if you look at Russian women, very often (but not always) we will see hips of some kind like this. The difference is noticeable, right?

The thing is that the trousers are mostly sewn on square shape pelvis And here, most women (in my opinion) have a diamond-shaped pelvis. And this is a completely different shape, a completely different distribution of volumes, etc. You can read more about pelvic shapes.

And what happens when we put on straight trousers on a diamond-shaped pelvis.

The model sits quite loosely at the waist, but the legs themselves are tight at the hips. It is very uncomfortable to sit in such trousers, especially if the fabric does not stretch. And the silhouette looks completely different from what the model suggests.

According to my subjective assessments, in a typical mass-market figure, the ratio of hip circumference (pelvis at its widest part) to hip circumference (legs at its widest part, thighs in Russian) should be approximately 55% or less. The thigh should be 55% narrower than the hips, and the narrower the thigh, the better these classic trousers fit.

The trousers fit best on models; their ratio can be even 50%. Teenagers' legs may be even narrower, 46% for example.

And if you have a diamond-shaped pelvis, then you can even do it without excess weight do not fall into this proportion. I saw a leg with a volume of 60% of the hip circumference on a very slender girl who wears sizes 38 and 40. And, despite her overall slimness, this girl could not find classic trousers in stores. I calculated that in order for her to normally buy trousers in stores with such a hip circumference, she needs to gain weight in her buttocks by 8 cm!

I met 61% in overweight women and this was my personal maximum so far.

Using a measuring tape, measure the circumference of your pelvis at its widest part. And measure the circumference of your leg at the widest part. And then according to the formula:
leg circumference: (hip circumference: 100) = %

The result will be how many percent the leg circumference is less than the hip circumference.

If 55% or less - hurray, the trousers will most likely fit normally in this place.

Each additional percentage of volume significantly reduces the possibility of a perfect fit.

If the percentage is above 58, then it will be very difficult to choose straight trousers without fitting them in a studio.

And if 50% or less, there will be no problems with trousers, but you need to eat better :-))))

What to do if you have bulky legs and desperately need classic trousers?

You'll have to contact the studio. To do this, you need to choose trousers in the store that are slightly loose in your legs. They will be very wide in the pelvis and waist. And now it will be necessary to stitch them in the butt and waist.

To make suturing possible and not very expensive, choose models without crazy decorative finishing in this area. But since we are talking about classic trousers, they will most likely have a discreet design. And yes, your butt in such trousers will still look not like a fashion model’s butt, but like your butt. But the dress code is followed and you will be comfortable sitting at work. And no horizontal folds or creases.

You can also look for trousers tailored to the hips diamond-shaped, there is a greater chance that the voluminous legs will fit. These trousers will look something like this.

But you rarely see such models in offline stores in Russia.

If you don’t have a model figure, but you want to wear clothes comfortably and beautifully, I invite you to my course “Perfect Fit of Clothes.”

- Yes, sir. Just a quarter of an inch higher on your trousers please, sir. In the gap between the shoe and the cuff, a sock should flash with casual elegance. This subtlety is extremely important.
- So?
- Perfect, sir.
“There are moments in life, Jeeves, when a person asks himself the question: “Are trousers worth such attention?”
- This mood will pass, sir.

P. G. Wodehouse

The original intention of this blog was to write about men's style, dodging pitfalls in the form of obvious and hackneyed topics. And yet, objective reality forces me to write a couple of program texts. The appearance of today's material is due to two reasons:

1. The myth that “you have to know how to wear suits.” Yes, of course, style is not only clothes, but also a sense of self/attitude, but this fact in no way justifies those who say “suits don’t suit me.” In order for the suit to look good and the “magic” to start working, it is enough to adhere to a number of basic rules of fit, which are discussed below.
2. Unconscious misconceptions and total heresy, which are replete with such articles on the Internet, written as if they were carbon copies. Some of the information contained in them is hopelessly outdated, while others are initially incorrect. I would like to make material that is relevant today, but at the same time “timeless” in essence.

So, as usual, there are three basic parts of a suit - a shirt, trousers and a jacket (not today about accessories). Let's go in order.

Shirt - second skin. The only freedoms it should have are those without which you cannot move/breathe (sleeve armhole, collar, slight allowance at the waist). “Sails” sticking out of trousers and fluttering in the wind are not needed. The stitching seam for the shoulder and sleeve should ideally be on the highest bone of the shoulder (while writing the post, I learned that it is called the “acromion” and is not the edge of the collarbone, as I previously thought).

Sleeve length is more a matter of taste and luck. In my opinion, in a modern suit, in a free state, it should reach exactly to the junction of the forearm and hand (if you look at the inside of the hand, this is a “fold” of skin at its base), and retrogrades will probably add another 1-2 centimeters in length. You should not choose sleeves shorter than the border of the wrist, especially if the shirt will be worn under a jacket (I will explain why later).

RIGHT HERE

The collar should be fastened with the top button without restricting breathing, but if you can’t do this (provided that the rest of the shirt fits perfectly), just wear it with the collar unbuttoned, and when putting on a tie, “tighten” the collar with it without fastening the buttons. This is a half measure, but it’s better than a shirt 2-4 sizes too large.

And the main thing (along with the shoulders), on which almost everyone gets pierced, is the fit at the waist. A chemise is not an informal shirt that can be worn untucked! This is an item that follows your figure, so the critical maximum freedom that you can see when tucking it into trousers/jeans is the third picture (although I strongly recommend strictly adhering to the first and second). Despite being horribly stock, this illustration gets the point across well:

In general, if you buy a slim or even regular fit shirt, you are unlikely to encounter this problem, but just in case - the armhole of the sleeve (this is the junction of the torso and the sleeve, where the arm is inserted) should also only provide freedom of movement, and nothing more There shouldn’t be any volumes of fabric there.

In 1944, everything was, ahem, somewhat different.

Pants specific to different types figures and style. For example, I wouldn’t hesitate to judge someone’s choice of waist height - some people can easily wear trousers that go to the navel (I’m not kidding, this can work, especially if the wearer knows how and likes to wear clothes in a vintage style), while others can only wear super-low pants waist, but there are still universal rules that will help in choosing.

Rule #1: Fit at the waist. In order to understand how certain trousers are generally worn (high, regular, low waist), you need to put them on so that in the crotch area (sorry, but tailors are people who know no shame) there is a minimum (but, again, , which does not restrict comfort and movement) space (let me note that we are not talking about trousers from Vivienne Westwood and other extravagant fashion brands). Only then will you see the waistline and be able to conclude whether the trousers are your size or not. There is nothing worse than mid-/high-waisted pants that fit “perfectly” on a man’s hips, leaving a terrible amount of room in the groin area.

If you like the fit overall, but your waist is a few centimeters wider or at whatever you want - just buy and give the trousers to the master to be adjusted to the waist. It’s possible, for example, for me. ☺

Rule #2: Pants Length. If you already exactly understand how trousers should fit correctly at the waist (and make sure they do fit) - look at the length (in that order, not vice versa!). One of the terrible things that is written in almost all “guides” is that trousers should form the mythical “one crease on the shoe.” Nowadays, this strange formulation misleads many beginners and forces them to buy dramatically long trousers, so I would advise you to listen to Jeeves’ phrase from the epigraph (“in the gap between the boot and the cuff a sock should flash with careless elegance”). Too short trousers in a business or semi-business style will be extravagant, but let's finally say goodbye to the bad Soviet tradition of “the more fabric, the better.” Remove the pile, take your trousers to a tailor for hemming (I won’t say who) and happily wear a piece of clothing that fits your size. Briefly - The length of the trousers should slightly cover the ankle bone. No more.

Fitting a jacket is more difficult than it seems at first glance. Despite the fact that this is one of the most structurally complex pieces of clothing in the world and its fit has many subtleties, let's start with the basics for now. The main point is the fit of the shoulders. The edge of your jacket shoulder = the edge of your shoulder! Remember this once and for all. Even in the loosest fit, the shoulder line should not extend further than your own shoulder. This means, almost like a shirt, the upper arm bone is the beginning of your jacket sleeve. The maximum deviation from this point is 1 cm. Most other defects can be corrected by a craftsman, but the shoulders cannot be adjusted. So be careful when choosing.

Simple and clear picture

Further, continuing the discussion of the upper half, - how at the same armhole, the better the jacket. Let me remind you again: the armhole is the place where the sleeve is sewn into the “body” of the jacket. Of course, the phrase about the “best” jacket is exaggerated, but in 90% of cases it is true. Firstly, a wide armhole is less aesthetically pleasing, secondly, it creates inconvenience when moving and raising your arms, and thirdly, a wide armhole is an unambiguous indicator of the factory production of the jacket (it guarantees the manufacturer that any buyer will “fit” into it). Therefore, make sure that the freedom in the armhole is, if not minimal, then at least moderate.

The length of the jacket is a debatable issue. Again, the first thing I want to do is debunk the myths. The most delusional postulate replicated - free hanging the hand should grab the edge of the front (the front of the jacket), which means the length is correct . Suddenly, all people’s hands are different, and if you grab it, it doesn’t mean anything. This rule works for some, but not for others; it cannot be called universal.

A more sane, but for my taste a little outdated cliche - back the jacket should completely cover the buttocks . Ok, this might work, provided that the rest of the fit looks perfect. But usually in the situation of choosing the first/second/only suit, this is not the case, which means that this will become another “plus” in the collection of features that turn your figure into something like a sack of potatoes. My personal “rule”, which has never failed me, is this: in a modern suit, the back of the jacket should slightly cover the protruding point of the buttocks(to be more straightforward - the middle of the butt). This minimum is quite enough not to look ridiculously “fashionable”, but at the same time to emphasize the figure and lightness. This length is preferable for medium and low-waist trousers; in the case of a high waist, it is better to stick to the retrograde “to completely cover the buttocks.” The picture above is an example of a good modern jacket length.

Further - waist issue. I recommend wearing your jacket buttoned up unless otherwise necessary. This means that when you fasten the top button, the jacket should take the shape of your body. Of course, this is what happens with perfect suits in an ideal world, but in our case, let's agree on at least one thing (let me repeat the cliché again, this time completely adequate) - between a shirt and a buttoned jacket button there is maximum freedom - the volume of one apple or fist. Anything more is already too much. If the jacket “tightens” and restricts movement when fastening a button, it should also be neglected.

Fit at the waist of a smoker / Fit at the waist of a healthy person (but the sleeves are neither suitable)

Your jacket sleeves are longer than necessary. You may think that the jacket should cover the shirt. Perhaps you just haven't thought about this issue. Anyway - jacket sleeves should be 1-3 centimeters shorter than those of the shirt. If you cannot see the sleeve of your shirt from under your jacket, immediately go to a specialist and reduce the sleeve of your jacket (or change your shirt). A good guide for the correct jacket sleeve length is the bone on the outside of the forearm, which turns into the hand. From it to the hand is just about a couple of centimeters. Shirts with a French cuff (under a cufflink) should stick out even more - by 2-4 cm or, for easier orientation, before the edge/center of the cufflink becomes visible.

The right sleeves, the right shoulders, the right armhole.

One more thing - please do not wear a jacket with three buttons (“2.5 buttons”, where one button is on the bend of the lapel, does not count). Just put it on the mezzanine. Unless you're a vintage fashion enthusiast and under 45, everyone will think you inherited it from your dad or grandpa. That THE BOTTOM BUTTON OF THE JACKET IS NEVER BUTTONED I hope you know without me. If not, remember it forever and make it automatic.

The vents, lapels, buttonholes and other details are more about style than fit, so we won’t touch them for now.

If you remember these simple and completely intuitive basics, you (or your guy) will become cooler than Colin Firth.

Well, okay, you won't, but at least get a little closer.

Reposting to other resources - only with mention of the original address.

Current fashion trends and constant changes in dimensional grids brands have led to the fact that now many young guys and even older men do not know how to choose men's trousers. And in vain, because classic trousers should be present in the wardrobe of any man, regardless of his type of activity and style of clothing.

Are you going to attend a serious event with a formal dress code, and now you are looking for the perfect trousers for you? So how should men's trousers fit and how to choose? right size trousers?

The most important thing to remember is that classic trousers are usually selected according to height. When trying on, walk around a little to make sure that the item is the right length for you. Please note that your socks should not be visible while walking. But you also shouldn’t overdo it – the trousers shouldn’t bunch up like an accordion downwards. How to determine the length of men's trousers? Correctly selected men's trousers should fit slightly over the front of the shoe and reach the heels of the shoes at the back.

The pockets are also important part men's trousers In no case should they be narrower than the average male palm. The upper part of the pocket should be adjacent to the belt, and the lower part needs high-quality fixation using side stitching. Well-tailored trousers will never have pockets that bulge.

How to choose men's trousers by width?

When purchasing dress pants, consider your body type. It happens when expensive and high-quality clothes do not look very attractive due to voluminous hips or belly. In such cases, you need to buy trousers with a low rise and wide, loose legs. If you have a thin build and insufficiently voluminous buttocks, then it is best to choose trousers that are exactly the right size. “French pockets” located in the side seam, without trim, can also help you.

How to choose pants that fit a man?

Believe me, an accurately selected trouser size will add more solidity and presentability to your image. Choosing the size of men's trousers is practically no different from choosing the right jeans.

To determine your size, you will also need to measure your waist, hips and leg length. If you have any problems measuring the length of your legs directly on yourself, then simply measure your favorite trousers or trousers using a measuring tape or tape measure.

Lay the garment out on a flat surface and then measure the length of the legs along the inseam from the seam to the hem.

Let us remind you that the waist must be measured at the place where you wear the belt, placing the measuring tape tightly against the body.

How to find out the size of men's trousers for other size grids?

There may be some difficulties with foreign brands. For example, on American products you can often find not only the size of the trousers, but also several other parameters: waist (letter W) and length (denoted by letter L). Please note that they are indicated in inches, and to convert to the usual length measure, you need to multiply the number indicated on the tag by 2.54.

Sometimes one gets the impression that there is a category of representatives of the stronger sex in the world who, in principle, do not know what the length of trousers for men should be. Everything would be fine if their pants were long - it looks rather untidy, but at least it doesn’t cause laughter and bewilderment among people from the outside. But too short trousers often become a reason for jokes, which sometimes resemble outright mockery. To avoid such embarrassment, it is important to know how to determine the length of men's trousers. Today we will tell our readers how this is done, and also find out the features of calculating this parameter depending on the model of pants.

Measure seven times and cut once!

Of course, it happens that a man has a rather non-standard height, and therefore it is much more difficult for him to choose the right length of trousers. At the same time, it is usually difficult for owners of long legs to buy normal pants, because manufacturers most often average their products to standard parameters. So it turns out that men who are above average height flaunt in short trousers, and short ones sweep the ground with their trousers.

It’s another matter when the length of men’s trousers is incorrect (the photo posted a little higher demonstrates typical mistakes) is only the result of an inattentive attitude to this both on the part of the owner and on the part of the tailor, who probably knows the standards and rules. In addition, when hemming pants, you need to do a fitting. Cutting off the excess offhand simply means ruining your trousers.

Gold standard: does it exist?

Yes, the rules of men's fashion in this regard are clear. Special guides clearly state what the length of trousers for men should be. Moreover, stylists and fashion designers give definitions and parameters for each style of pants, because in different cases there are their own characteristics.

According to the generally accepted standard, the trouser leg should cover the heel no more than halfway. This is the so-called mid-heel rule. Other sources say that it is better if the hem of the trouser leg is located above the heel, and the gap between them should be within 1-2 centimeters, then it will look beautiful. However, everything directly depends on the style of the trousers, which even in the classic version can be different.

Timeless classic

What should be the length of trousers for men, if we are talking about traditional trousers with wide legs, in the center of which there is an arrow? This style is most often chosen by older men and those with an imperfect figure, who with the help of such a suit can hide flaws in the form of a protruding tummy. In order for the suit to fit well, you need not only to fit the trousers to your figure, but also to line them correctly.

The back of the trouser leg should be placed no higher than one centimeter above the heel, but not lower than its middle. If your pants reach the ground, it looks bad and is also uncomfortable. In front, they should cover 2/3 of the shoe, leaving only a third of the shoe or boot visible, while the leg in the shin area usually folds into one fold.

Classic (not tapered) trousers with cuffs need to be lined differently. They should reach the shoe, lying on it, but a crease in the trouser leg should not form. Usually the distance from the hem of the trouser leg to the heel is 2-2.5 cm.

There is one more trick that helps to beautifully process the bottom of the trouser legs: they need to be trimmed on the bias. In this case, the leg in the back is usually slightly longer than in the front.

Casual suit

These are clothes made in accordance with modern trends and the rules of tailoring men's clothing. Usually both the jacket and trousers in such suits are tapered. Pants can be with or without cuffs. In any case, the recommendation regarding their length, which reaches the middle of the heel, will be incorrect.

The length of trousers for men who want to look stylish and elegant must be adjusted with precision reaching almost a millimeter. If you leave them long, they will not reach the floor, but will gather at the bottom into an accordion. When trying on, be sure to put on those shoes or boots that will most often be worn specifically with these trousers and use them to navigate. As is the case with classic version tapered pants should form one fold in the front, but at the back they cannot be shorter than to the middle of the back.

Chinos and their ideal length

This type of trousers is very popular among young people and men aged 20-40 years. Their informal style is more suitable for everyday looks, not burdened by a strict dress code. However, chinos go well with tight shirts, raglans, casual jackets, and therefore they are often worn by employees of the banking sector, offices and other institutions.

This model of trousers is distinguished by a wide variety of colors; in addition, there are many options for wearing these trousers. They can either lie on the shoes or be turned up. What should be the length of trousers for men if they do not like cuffs and prefer a classic style of clothing? As with the previous option with tapered trousers, chinos should not bunch up too much at the bottom, but a straight leg without a pleat will look too short.

In a cropped look, you need to rely on shoes and style, using the rule: the looser the bow, the shorter the pants can be.

Velvet pants

Quite wide trousers are usually made from ribbed fabric, which are more suitable for everyday wear. You can freely wear them for a walk, shopping or to the cinema. Microcorduroy looks more elegant and does not weigh down the figure; in this case, the model can be quite narrow.

Based on the width of the pants, you need to select their length. Classic wide models cannot be shortened, and it is also rare that such trousers have cuffs. Therefore, their length should reach the middle of the heel and cover the shoes, right up to the edge of the lacing.

Sport is still power

In the case of workout clothes, the rules remain standard, although with some caveats. Excessively long pants can become a hindrance during exercise and even cause injury. Pants with a straight cut should reach the beginning of the sole of the sneakers, and under no circumstances should they lie on the ground. But a training uniform with cuffs is difficult to adjust - it’s too complicated a process. Short men should avoid this model, because without a hem it looks too crumpled.

Originally from the army

Cargo pants are no less popular in men’s daily wardrobe. This is a military-style model with patch pockets on the legs and buttocks. Unlike classic models, this version has one feature. The ideal length of trousers for men who prefer the cargo model should be such that they reach their shoes. In this case, the trouser leg usually falls on it a little, without forming folds, but also does not fall to the floor.

Shoes matter

The correct length of trousers for men depends not only on the clothing, its style or the build of the owner. Shoes are a fundamental factor to a certain extent. So, formal shoes or boots classic style Cropped trousers that expose the ankle are not allowed. The maximum permissible length can end at the level of the hem of the shoe; this option is called mid-Atlantic.

But with shoes in sporty style, moccasins, Converse, you can “play around” by tucking your trousers shorter. But not the classic models, but chinos and jeans. The latter, by the way, allow the most liberties with regard to their length. Jeans usually made longer than usual. As a result, models with wide legs sometimes reach the floor, and narrow ones are gathered in several folds above the shoes.