Having mastered the skills of decoupage, we, as a rule, do not stop there, and today I will tell you what decoupage with craquelure is, and what craquelure is in general. After all, over time, just sticking a napkin becomes boring, you want to complicate the work. And the most popular method is to apply craquelure to decoupage.
Using craquelure varnish or paste, you can add some old charm, mystery and antiquity to the product.
There are two types of craquelure varnish - single-phase (one-step or one-component) and two-phase (two-step or two-component). From the name it is clear that in the first case one varnish is used, in the second - a combination of two different types.
One-component craquelure
One-component craquelure is applied between two contrasting layers of paint, where the first layer is the color of the cracks that have formed (when dry, the varnish breaks the second layer of paint, creating cracks of different shapes).One-component varnishes are all water-based and do not have unpleasant odor, even allergy sufferers can safely use them.
Features of working with one-component craquelure
Apply acrylic paint (the color of the desired cracks) to the prepared surface and wait until it dries completely. Then we coat it with one-component craquelure varnish and dry it. Be sure to read the instructions, as each manufacturer claims different drying times.
Then we paint with a second contrasting layer of paint. Here it is important to apply the paint in an even, dense layer with equal pressure on the brush or sponge, so that the bottom layer does not show through. You need to apply the second layer of paint very carefully so that they do not overlap each other, otherwise the layer in these places will be too thick and will not crack.
Since the varnish is water-based, the finished product should not come into contact with water or it will need to be additionally coated with a waterproof varnish.
Reasons for the different sizes and nature of cracks in one-component craquelure
The size and nature of cracks in crackle depends on many factors. If you apply it with a sponge, you will get a chaotic mesh, if you apply it with a brush, then the cracks will seem to “go” in the direction of the brush stroke.
The size of cracks in craquelure depends on the thickness of the varnish layer and on the time after which paint will be applied to it (the damper the craquelure and the thicker the applied layer, the larger, rougher and deeper the crack, respectively; the thinner the layer and the more dried it is, the smaller and more delicate it turns out to be a network of cracks).
Preferably use only acrylic matte paints. For example, glossy and metallic paints are very heavy and the varnish simply under their weight may not show cracks.After finishing work, brushes and sponges should be rinsed with water.
Stages of applying craquelure varnish depending on the type of decoupage
The technique for applying one-component craquelure varies depending on the type of decoupage chosen. With direct decoupage, paint is applied, then craquelure varnish, then paint again in a contrasting color, then a napkin is glued to the surface.
In reverse decoupage, a drawing is glued, then craquelure varnish, then paint (background), then another layer of paint (color of cracks.)
Textured or craquelure paste
In addition to classic craquelure varnishes, you can find in stores many products for creating cracks called structural paste (craquelure paste or paste for creating frescoes). It's kind of like artistic putty.
It is more convenient to apply craquelure paste using a palette knife or spatula. The result is beautiful cracks that imitate an antique surface. To create such cracks, it is recommended to use a hot hair dryer immediately after application. It promotes quick drying.
Afterwards, the product can be painted with water-based acrylic paints; the cracks can remain in the same color as the overall tone or can be rubbed over with contrasting pigments. The drying time and the size of the cracks depend on the thickness of the layer - the thicker, the longer and larger the cracks.
Two-component craquelure
The main difference between two-component crackle and one-component crackle is that the cracks are created in the varnish layer itself, and not in the paint. The advantage is that you can create a cracked effect on top of the decoupage.The nuances of working with two-component craquelure during decoupage
Two-component craquelure in decoupage is usually done at the final stage of surface decoration. We apply the first step of varnish to the prepared product with the pasted pattern, wait for it to dry (usually from 30 minutes to 2 hours, depending on the manufacturer), then apply the second step and also wait for it to dry completely.
Do not forget to carefully read the description of the technique for working with the selected crackle. The manufacturer may claim drying time from 2 hours to 24 hours. We rub over the cracks that appear either with oil paint or dry non-aqueous pigment or bitumen. Remove excess with a damp cloth or sponge.
The nature of cracks in decoupage with craquelure depends on the method of applying craquelure varnish. If the first step is applied in a very thin layer, the cracks will be small and delicate. If applied thickly, there will be larger and more characteristic cracks. All this must be taken into account when creating crackle.
Two-component pastes for craquelure
Just like in one-component craquelure, the line of two-component craquelure contains a paste for creating cracks. Such pastes work in tandem with a base to create such a craquelure. Visually, the result will resemble a one-component crackle, only the resulting cracks will be more rounded, uniform and identical.
Stages of applying two-component craquelure paste
First of all, apply a thin and uniform layer of the craquelure paste base to the surface, wait for it to dry (you can use a hairdryer), then apply the craquelure paste using a brush, sponge or spatula.
The size of the cracks will depend on the thickness of the craquelure paste layer. A thin layer will create a cracked paint effect; thick – the effect of a voluminous paste.
To create an additional color shade when decoupage, you can mix the paste with acrylic paint before applying. After drying, the paste can be coated with acrylic paints or decorated with aging materials.
How to make one-component craquelure with your own hands and available materials
Sometimes it is very difficult to choose the necessary craquelure among the variety of products presented in stores, especially for a beginner. Sometimes it’s easier to try to make it from improvised materials in order to understand what craquelure is and what it looks like.
Craquelure using PVA glue
The most popular way to create a one-component craquelure for decoupage with your own hands is to use PVA glue.
But not every glue is suitable for this; it is better to take construction glue. It, unlike stationery, is not diluted. Its thickness is perfect for creating a layer of “craquelure varnish”. There are 2 ways to obtain craquelure using PVA.
The first method is that PVA glue acts as a substitute for craquelure varnish.
Apply a layer of paint (the color of the cracks) and dry. Then we apply PVA glue, remembering that the thicker the layer, the rougher and larger the cracks will be and the longer it will take to dry.
You can dry it with a hairdryer so that the surface becomes matte, and there is still “wet” glue under the film. We quickly and carefully apply the paint (you can use a brush or sponge, depending on the desired result) and dry. It is also good to use a hairdryer here; cracks quickly begin to appear from the heat.Then leave it to dry completely ( better than a watch 5-6 or more, depending on the thickness of the glue applied), coat with varnish and you’re done.
The second method is to mix PVA glue with acrylic paint 1 to 1 and apply this composition to the first layer of paint, dry for about 20 minutes, then you can use a hairdryer and get the same interesting design.
Craquelure for decoupage using egg white
Craquelure using egg white enough interesting way. The principle of application is identical to the standard method of creating one-component craquelure, although it has its own characteristics.
Apply paint to the primed surface and let it dry. Apply varnish in 1-2 layers. This is necessary so that the protein is not absorbed.
After drying, randomly apply the protein in a thick layer, using good strokes. We dry only naturally, this can take a long time (it is better to leave it overnight). Carefully cover the dried protein with a layer of contrasting paint, making sure that the strokes do not overlap each other. Let's dry it.
Craquelure using furniture wood varnish PF 283
Beautiful cracks in decoupage are obtained using furniture varnish PF 283. The only thing is that this varnish is alkyd and therefore you need to work with it in a well-ventilated room wearing a mask and gloves.
We cover the first layer of paint with varnish, wait for it to dry for 3-4 hours until it becomes “tack-free” (that is, the varnish sticks, but does not remain on your hands). Apply a second contrast layer acrylic paint and immediately dry it with a hairdryer until cracks appear. The varnish reaches complete drying in 36 hours, after which you can continue working with the product.
Craquelure using gelatin
Craquelure using gelatin is a fairly popular method, but it rarely works the first time. For gelatin craquelure, take a tablespoon of gelatin and dilute it in a glass of cold water. Leave to swell, then heat until completely dissolved.Apply the cooled gelatin mass to in no particular order for decoration and let it dry for 10-15 minutes, you can use a hairdryer, but don’t overheat it. Next, carefully cover with paint, making sure that the gelatin does not reach behind the brush, especially in places where the layer is very thick. Dry and coat with acrylic varnish.
Vinegar craquelure
Using vinegar, preferably 9%, you can also get a network of cracks. Apply vinegar to acrylic paint (not completely dried) with a sponge and dry naturally. The result will be fairly thin cracks.
DIY two-component craquelure
You can actually make two-component craquelure for decoupage with your own hands and at home, although it will be a little more complicated.
Two-component craquelure using eggshells.
Two-component craquelure using eggshells based on the mosaic principle. We break the dried shells without film into pieces of various sizes. We put together a pattern from the resulting fragments, leaving a gap between the particles. Glue it with PVA glue. We carefully paint the dried mosaic so as not to fill the cracks.
We coat it with varnish so that we can then wipe out the cracks with oil paint or bitumen. Or you can paint everything with one color, then carefully brush it over the surface with another paint so as not to get into the cracked layer.
The result is a beautiful autumn surface, the design of which you can initially create yourself, rather than waiting for what will happen as a result.
Eggshell craquelure is shown in the photograph at the beginning of the article. There are used shells of 3 different shades– white, brown and light brown. It is rubbed with oil paints in ocher and gold colors and then varnished. This color scheme suited the overall background of the picture perfectly.
How to make two-component craquelure from one-component craquelure varnish
It happens that there is only one-component craquelure varnish, but you want to use a two-component one in creativity and decoupage. The basic idea is that if a one-part varnish can crack acrylic paint, then it can also create cracks in acrylic varnish.
E The steps of work are as follows:
1 stick a napkin and dry it;
2 is coated with acrylic varnish in 8 – 10 layers. We apply them very thinly, without creating smudges, making each layer perpendicular to the previous one. The larger the layer, the larger and rougher the cracks.
3 We cover the dried acrylic varnish with a one-component craquelure varnish very carefully in an even layer.
4 After about an hour, cracks will already be visible. Rub over with contrasting pigments or oil paint. Cover with finishing varnish.
In this topic, we looked at all the main ways to create craquelure when decoupaging various products; now we have an idea of how one-component craquelure differs from two-component craquelure. Crackle compositions can be purchased at craft stores or made yourself without leaving home. A beautiful pattern of cracks can be created from PVA glue, eggshells, yolk, or gelatin.
And in the next article I will present to your attention, and of course, read on our training and self-development portal other articles about decoupage with my master classes and theoretical training in this wonderful type of creativity and handmade, for example, and in general.
Craquelure means cracking of a layer of paint, which is not as easy to do correctly as it seems Craquelure is the art of non-natural aging, which involves the formation of miniature cracks in a layer of paint. The surface coated with this varnish acquires an interesting, beautiful structure.
Craquelures in decoupage: description and varnishes
This is achieved through the use of special varnishes applied to the surface of the object.
The varnishes used in the crackle technique come in two main types:
- One-step (single-phase) - great for beginners, for those people who have just started practicing this technique. This craquelure looks like a cracked enamel surface; the first layer or base is visible through it.
- Two-step (two-phase) is more difficult to apply, but at the same time, it is more beautiful, cracks form in the varnish itself, which allows it not to overlap the previously applied image, which allows it to be used on different surfaces.
When using a one-step varnish, you must first apply the primer, wait for it to dry, then apply the paint. Varnish is applied on top and, without letting it dry completely, paint is applied on top, then some kind of design is applied.
If a two-step varnish is used, then first the surface is covered with shellac varnish; it should be applied in 2-3 layers, waiting for each layer to dry.
After drying, the top of the product is coated with a two-step craquelure varnish; after it dries, the resulting cracks are rubbed over with oil paint, pastels, etc. The design is again applied on top and shellac varnish is applied to secure it.
Description and technique of applying craquelure varnishes for decoupage
All craquelure varnishes used in the decoupage technique are divided into two main types: one-step or one-component and two-step or two-component. The only difference between the two types of varnish is that one varnish is a one-component one, applied between layers of paint. A two-component varnish is applied to a layer of shellac varnish, followed by grouting, gluing the image and a layer of regular varnish.
Sometimes two-component varnishes are applied directly to the prepared and glued design, thus creating an antique effect.
Such varnishes can be bought in specialized stores; there are quite a few types of them, so before purchasing it is worth familiarizing yourself a little with their range and characteristics.
To apply such varnishes correctly, you should adhere to a certain technique:
- A one-component varnish is applied in a thin layer to the prepared surface using a soft kolin brush. Apply so that no brush marks remain, after which you must wait until the layer dries.
- When applying two-component varnish, be aware that it can be very sticky, so you should not touch it with your fingers to avoid leaving fingerprints and also be careful not to get dust on it. The second coat is applied after the first is almost dry, and after that the product must dry, in accordance with the instructions for this type of varnish.
One-step craquelure in decoupage: master class
In order to learn how to make decoupage with your own hands, it is worth learning from more experienced people or watching a video on the topic of a master class on decoupage, such a video will allow you to understand everything in more detail. One-step craquelure is considered one of complex elements, used in decoupage, but at the same time, it is a bright and expressive technique, and objects made with it look quite unusual.
One-step craquelure consists of cracks in the coating layer through which the underlying surface is visible.
In order to achieve this effect, the following steps should be taken:
- The workpiece is primed, then, when it dries, paint is applied to the places where the craquelure varnish is supposed to be applied. Paint should not be applied twice, and you should strive to cover as much area as possible. After the varnish has dried, paint the main color is applied to it and wait for it to dry.
- After this, you can start drawing, you can use photographs, cover the surface beautiful napkins or any drawings. After this, you can start varnishing with regular varnish.
With this technique, there is one important condition, this is the need to correctly combine a set of brushes, layers of paint and drying of each layer.
Perhaps no one-step craquelure technique has as many conditions and features as other decoupage techniques, but the effect will be more interesting and beautiful.
Two-step craquelure in decoupage: master class
Two-step craquelure is the most common technique in decoupage. It consists of cracks in the varnish layer on a finished surface, such as glass, wood, metal and even furniture.
As a rule, two-step craquelure is sold in a set consisting of two jars, one component is applied to the other.
In this case, the top layer cracks, and so that the cracks are clearly visible, they are rubbed with different grouts.
To ensure high-quality decoupage using this technique, you should use the following tips, step by step:
- The workpiece should be almost completely ready, with a pattern applied to it, and it is desirable that it should already be varnished, and there should be several layers of varnish.
- Next, the first part of the craquelure varnish is applied to the surface; it should be dried according to the instructions, and it is advisable to dry it until it is not completely dry. After this, the second part of the composition is applied, and you also need to wait until cracks appear. After this, the cracks are grouted and the entire product is varnished.
Two-step craquelure can be water-based or not, slightly yellow or completely transparent, etc. Gradually, with the acquisition of experience, a person will work with 2-3 types of such varnish.
Decoupage with craquelure on a bottle step by step
To create beautiful decoupage, you will need certain materials and tools; materials can be bought both in regular stores, for example, acrylic paints and primers, and in specialized stores, in particular, craquelure varnishes.
You will also need soft wide brushes, sponges, etc., and a surface on which all the work will be done, for example, bottles:
- The bottle should be washed, all stickers should be removed, then it should be primed and wait until the primer dries. After this, it should be painted with acrylic or water-based paint of the selected color; the paint can be applied either with a sponge or with a brush.
- It is best to apply a one-component layer of varnish using a sponge; you need to wait until the varnish dries and apply the paint in an even, wide layer. When the paint has dried, the bottle should be coated with a layer of regular varnish.
- A design from a napkin or from a print should be sprayed with hairspray, the film is straightened, and the design is applied with the front side to it. The film together with the napkin is applied to the bottle, after which air bubbles are expelled from under the napkin. Afterwards, the film is removed, and the design is covered with aquatic, and then the entire bottle in several layers. Such beautiful bottles you can make a large quantity.
When a person learns to use all the techniques of decoupage with craquelure, and is confident in applying paints, varnishes, gluing images and maintaining a certain style, he will be able to create many interesting and beautiful works.
How to use craquelure varnish for decoupage
Crackle is one of the techniques that simulates the aging of something, for example, in order to make beautiful boxes or for processing a plate or several plates. For this, a variety of varnishes are used, which come in two types: one-component and two-component. Each varnish uses its own technique and a specific varnish. Replace special varnish For the crackle technique, it is impossible to use the usual one, since it will not give the required effect.
But, despite this, when using varnishes, there are certain tricks:
- Paint should be applied to the surface, wait until it dries, and then varnish should be applied to it, which should be applied with a wide soft brush, and those who are starting to practice this technique for the first time should use a foam sponge.
- After the first layer has dried, apply a second layer if the varnish is two-component. If the varnish is one-component, then one layer is enough, but applied thickly. The varnish can be applied in different directions with a brush or sponge, creating different patterns.
Two-step craquelure in decoupage: master class (video)
The big advantage of this technique is that anyone can master it in a relatively short time. a short time, but at the same time it is necessary to constantly experiment, do both direct and reverse decoupage.
How to make a craquelure effect at home using one-component and two-component varnish
If you want to create a “antique” interior, you will have to master the craquelure technique: doing this kind of “aging” of surfaces with your own hands is not at all difficult, the main thing is to have a special varnish and carefully study the recommendations of professional craftsmen.
For beginners, it is better to make craquelure with your own hands using a one-component composition - it is much easier.
What is craquelure, and what materials are needed for it?
What is craquelure, and how to master this technique? Craquelure or crackle is one of the most popular decoration methods. The painting technique involves creating a pattern of thin cracks on the paint surface and the effect of an aged and cracked surface. Vintage style is extremely popular today, and therefore artificial aging in the interior has also found application. However, few people know that the crackling technique appeared in the 18th century in France.
The technology is based on the peculiarity of craquelure varnish. It is applied between two layers of paint of different shades and cracks as it dries. Thanks to this property of the varnish, a network of small cracks appears on the surface in a chaotic manner.
A surface with imitation aging will be appropriate in interior styles such as country or classic. Using the craquelure technique, you can process not only doors, but also doors.
Despite the apparent complexity, making craquelure on walls with your own hands is extremely simple. Cracks appear on the surface by themselves; the main thing is to follow the correct sequence of actions. The easiest way to create an aged surface is to use water-based paints.
What tools and materials are needed for craquelure done at home?
To age the walls you will need:
- acrylic primer;
- craquelure varnish;
- acrylic paint;
- putty knife;
- sponge, brush;
- protective varnish.
Before making craquelure at home, purchase paint in two colors. It is better to choose contrasting shades, so the cracks on the surface will appear brighter. If you need to create a network of small cracks, you should use a sponge to apply the varnish, since when using a brush, deep grooves will appear on the surface.
Craquelure varnish can be one- or two-component. In the first case, the varnish dries quickly and is easy to apply. Often, when creating a craquelure effect with your own hands, you use a hairdryer to speed up the drying process.
A two-component varnish requires precision from the artist and takes much longer to dry. However, for a normal smooth surface, using a one-component varnish is sufficient.
The DIY craquelure master class will help you master the aging technique to perfection.
How to make craquelure at home with one-component varnish
First, learn how to make craquelure on a wall with a one-component varnish. Before decorating, the surface is leveled and coated with acrylic primer. There is no need to level the walls to perfection, since craquelure masks small irregularities, chips and cracks. The imitation is usually created on a certain section of the wall, so it is necessary to stick masking tape along its border.
After waiting for the primer to dry completely (about 3 hours), use a flat synthetic brush to apply a dark shade of paint to the surface.
It must be remembered that the cracks will be the same color. After this, the paint should dry completely and the wall area is covered with another layer of paint. Two layers of paint are necessary to ensure that the composition lays down evenly. The color will dry for about 2-3 hours.
If the area with craquelure borders on surfaces painted in other colors, it’s time to paint them too. It is necessary to choose a color for this part of the wall so that it contrasts with the craquelure background.
These DIY craquelure photos show how a one-component craquelure varnish is applied to the surface:
For this you will need a flat brush with synthetic bristles. If you decide to use a sponge, it should be a comfortable size, but not too big. When applying varnish, you need to move from bottom to top. The varnish is applied with a sponge using blotting movements, also from bottom to top. Brush strokes should be not only vertical, but also horizontal. To diversify the pattern, strokes can be applied in different directions, for example diagonally. In this case, the cracks will be vertical, horizontal and diagonal.
The thicker the varnish layer, the brighter the cracks will appear. If the varnish is applied in a thin layer, the cracks, resembling a cobweb, will not be so noticeable. The varnish can dry from 30 minutes to 2 hours - it depends on its type and the level of humidity in the room.
After the varnish has dried, the surface is painted with a contrasting color using a moderately damp bristle brush. The paint layer should be uniform over the entire surface. It is necessary to paint it entirely, otherwise the craquelure will not appear. The coating must be applied quickly. If the wall area is large, it is recommended to apply vertical stripes of equal width to it, working carefully and making sure that there are no layers or drips of paint at the joints.
As soon as the paint begins to dry, cracks will appear. To speed up the drying process, you can use a hair dryer or halogen lamp. Complete cracking of the paint will occur within 24 hours.
To emphasize the texture of an aged section of the wall, you can paint a border along its edge with gold paint. In this case, individual places are not painted over, which also creates the effect of antiquity.
To give the treated surface strength, acrylic is applied to it. clear varnish, preferably matte. Surfaces painted with a sponge are covered with decorative varnish. To give additional attractiveness to the finishing layer, natural wax is used.
Now that you have learned how to make craquelure with a one-component varnish, practice on a small surface and then try to master a more complex technique.
How to make a craquelure effect with your own hands using two-component varnish
Here's how to create a craquelure effect with two-component varnishes. Craqueling with a two-component varnish has a more complex technology, but the result is impressive.
The surface is painted with background paint and dried. Then a two-component crackle varnish is applied in as thin and uniform a layer as possible. The brush, preferably a foam one, should move only in one direction, since the stripes of varnish should be as even as possible.
After the first coat of varnish has dried and becomes transparent, apply the second coat. It can be made thick, and the thicker this layer is, the brighter and deeper the cracks will be. When applying varnish, the brush should move crosswise in relation to the first layer.
Then the surface is covered with a finishing layer of paint and dried. It is better to use a fan to dry it or be patient and wait a few days. If you use a hairdryer to dry, the depth and width of the cracks will be even greater. The entire decorated wall must be treated with acrylic varnish and dried.
To enhance the brightness of the cracks, dark dye, gold or silver powder is collected on a sponge and gently rubbed into the recesses. Excess paint can be wiped off using a cloth and vegetable oil.
Craquelure must be properly cared for, otherwise the decorative layer will be damaged. Do not knock on the surface. The finish may crumble if it is strongly touched by something hard (for example, when installing furniture). The coating must not be cleaned, rubbed or wetted excessively. Cleaning is allowed using soft fabric soaked in clean water. You should not get carried away with wet cleaning; it is enough to do it once a week. It is almost impossible to restore a damaged layer of craquelure unnoticed, and only an experienced craftsman can do this.
In the video “Do-It-Yourself Craquelure” you can learn more fully about all the intricacies of the process of aging surfaces:
Today I want to talk about craquelures. After I started posting my work online, I was bombarded with questions about craquelure, so I decided to devote a page to this interesting topic.
First, I want to say that you will find very interesting articles from Elena Ostrovskaya.
1 part
part 2
.
These are very informative master classes, I advise everyone who is interested to read them carefully. Now about my craquelure varnishes. I use this one a small amount for now.
One-step varnish from Tair company. Always cracks! It is applied between contrasting paints, cracking the top layer. The primer is applied, then paint-varnish-paint, then you can stick on a napkin, a rice card, whatever, and only then the finishing varnish that seals the work. Be careful, some varnishes are not friendly with craquelure ones and also tend to crack or even shrink and fall off. I recommend applying craquelure varnish on a test item and trying to cover it with a finishing varnish to see if there is a symbiosis between them.
Examples of my work with one-step craquelure varnish. The first layer is gold, the second is brown. By the way, all metallic paint should NOT be used for a second coat, it will NOT crack. Can only be used as the first layer!
Since I already posted my work here, the logo is already present in the photo, so it’s double. Here the first is brown, the second is Neapolitan yellow. I did the craquelure on this box not even with varnish, but with PVA glue. The principle is absolutely the same as with one-step varnish. I applied the top layer with a brush, the cracks are different, they seem to stretch from the brush, you can even create a pattern. Here you can clearly see that the cracks are thicker on top and thinner on the sides. This does not depend on the thickness of the varnish, as many people write for some reason, but on the thickness of the second layer of paint. The thicker the layer, the larger and thicker the cracks will be. On the sides I slightly diluted the paint with water, made the layer thinner and got a finer mesh. Don’t be afraid to experiment on unnecessary objects, I craquelured a bunch of simple cans at home to learn how, you don’t have to paint an expensive thing right away!
We sorted out the one-step. Now two-step. This means that there are two steps, two jars with different compositions. The first is basic, the second is cracking. Two-step craquelure is applied to the completed work, where all the pictures have already been pasted, everything you wanted has been painted on, all types of dark and gold paints have been applied. The final stage is craquelure.
The most trouble-free is the Creall pair. The varnishes are signed, all instructions are given on the back, the type of cracks is shown throughout the label. After applying the first layer (you don't need to apply a very thick layer, it's just a base layer), I dry it a little with a hairdryer in order to speed up the process. At this stage, many people overdry the varnish, then no matter how much you apply the second layer, there will be cracks, but nothing will stick in them, the varnish has dried out! Here you need to dry the varnish so that it is sticky, but does not remain on your fingers. Yes, you’ll have to gently poke your finger into it every five to seven seconds and check for stickiness. As soon as it does not stick to your fingers, immediately remove the hairdryer and apply the second layer. Here, as your imagination tells you, thinner and smaller cracks are needed - apply a thin layer, huge thick cracks are needed - I apply two layers of thick cracks at once, I will show the result below. And also a hairdryer. And you shouldn’t overdry it either. Dry until the layers become transparent, immediately rub the cracks, otherwise everything will dry out. I’ll also tell you about the types of grout below.
Here are two coats of the second polish. Cracks of 5 mm are obtained. I rubbed it with dry gold pigment. If the pigment is not stuck to the cracks, I take a damp cotton pad and gently wipe it away. Everything is cleaned up right away before it dries out.
The pigment here is silver.
Varnish Idea. It is undesirable for white works as it turns yellow. After rubbing, you need to expose the work under a gentle stream of water and wash off the second layer of varnish. Do not touch it with your fingers, as you will erase the craquelure itself, do not worry, the water itself will wash away everything that is needed. I like.
The craquelure turns out beautiful.
Such thin, broken cracks. I rubbed it with a wax pencil.
Lucky Idigo. Water-based, therefore odorless. The mesh turns out beautiful, and you can also make the cracks thicker or thinner. Very good on white and blue surfaces, does not yellow. The can shows the type of cracks and instructions for use.
This decanter is made with two types of craquelure. Below is one-step, and above is two-step, Idigo.
More Idigo. I rubbed it with oil paints.
Shellac and gum arabic. Very refined and fine craquelure, very expensive jars. It turns yellow a little.
The thicker the second layer, the rarer the cracks.
Hobby thread craquelures. Water based. The craquelure turns out to be very thin indeed.
This is how it turns out on the board.
This is a beveled varnish. There is a picture on the lid of what will happen. There are different colors. Apply to a surface primed and painted in a contrasting color. This is, so to speak, both paint and varnish in one. Looks like paste. Apply with a palette knife as written in the instructions. Also, the thicker the layer, the larger the cracks.
Here he is at work.
Now about what needs to be rubbed. Only two-step craquelure is rubbed, I hope this is clear. Craquelure can be rubbed over with dry pigment. The colors are mostly metallic. When I can't find a color, I take old shadows and rub them in.
Wax crayons. I used it once, I didn’t really like it, so I’m leaving it without comment.
Oil paints. There are no metallic paints in the set, but you can wipe them down with them. I rub it into the craquelure with my finger, then wipe it with a dry cloth. Like. Can be used if the craquelure is slightly dry and the pigment does not stick.
When I was learning to craquelure, I couldn’t find anywhere exactly such a detailed explanation of what and why, so I tried to tell the very basics in as much detail as possible. I really hope that I helped newbies understand it. In general, my advice is to try it yourself! Not at work, but as I already said, at banks. Apply a little, see the effect, take into account mistakes and try again.
One-step craquelure(single-component) - one of the decorating techniques, once you get acquainted with which, you can make original crafts for home interior. There are other directions, such as patination, gilding, decoupage and several more. All of them can be combined, complemented and added individual notes. We'll get to know all the techniques later, but let's start with a very bright and impressive one-component craquelure.
What is one-component craquelure?
(“fr” craquelure) translated from French is a crack in the paint layer or varnish in a work of painting. One-step craquelure used for aging simple plain surfaces. To do this, the surface of the object to be decorated is covered with the main background. This is the color the cracks will be. After the paint has completely dried, a one-step craquelure varnish is applied with simple movements in one direction and dried again. Next, paint of the main color is applied, under the influence of which the craquelure varnish begins to crack, and the background paint is visible in the cracks. Ready product Can be coated with clear varnish for acrylic paints for durability.
The concept of one-component implies the use of one product (component) in the decorating process. It is worth highlighting that two-component and one-component compositions can give the effect of simple cracking. At the same time, single-component ones can cause cracks in both varnish and paint.
The general scheme of a one-component pie is as follows:
- The first stage consists of high-quality preparation and priming of the workpiece.
- Then we paint it the color we want to see in the cracks and dry it completely,
- Next we apply craquelure varnish. Let it dry a little (here are the following nuances - the longer you dry it, the smaller and longer the cracks will be).
- Apply top coat paint.
- After it you can patina or varnish.
As a result of these manipulations, the craquelure varnish, due to the difference in surface tension, cracks the paint of the main color and the previous layer of paint is visible in the cracks. For clarity, it is recommended to watch the following video:
What to pay attention to
When applying the top coat of paint, you must adhere to the following rules:
- You cannot paint twice on the same place, as cracks begin to form immediately, and it is possible to paint over them.
- At one time, the paint should be applied as evenly as possible, covering the layer so that the underlying paint does not show through.
- The consistency of the paint of the main color is very important - not liquid, but not thick, so that the craquelure varnish allows it to crack.
- It is important to apply this paint evenly, with equal pressure on the brush. If the pressure is stronger, the paint layer will be thin, the cracks will be long and elongated, thin (when applied with a brush) or small and “scaly” (when applied with a sponge).
To recreate beautiful natural cracks, you need to correctly combine a sponge, a brush, layers of paint and drying the craquelure varnish. And, naturally, the selection of the optimal craquelure composition is no less important. Therefore, the nature of the cracks depends entirely on:
- Craquelure composition.
- The thickness of the varnish layer.
- Drying conditions.
- Consistency of top coat paint.
- Thickness of the top layer of paint.
Which varnish to choose for one-step craquelure
One-step craquelure varnish is a water-based product that looks like a liquid paste. It dries extremely slowly. And acrylic paint applied on top of such a composition dries simply quickly in comparison. That is why its cracking occurs, provoked by movement in the underlying layer.
Varnish for one-step craquelure
On sale on the shelves of craft stores you can find many jars of one-component compositions from various manufacturers. The most common one-step varnishes that are used are:
- Craquelure varnish - DECOLA (Russia).
- Craquelle Medium - Hobby Line (Germany).
- Krakelierlack - Nerchau company (Germany).
- Krakelee Medium - Marabu (Germany).
- Antique Effekt - Sadolin (Denmark).
- Idea Decoupage - Maimeri company (Italy).
- Krakelierlack DecoArt medium - Rayher (Germany).
- Crackle Medium - Decorfin (Holland).
- Craquelure paint Krakelierfarbe - Glorex (Switzerland).
- One-step craquelure varnish - Ars Hobby company (Russia).
- One-step craquelure varnish - Tair company (Russia).
- One-step craquelure varnish - Aqua-color company (Russia).
- Country Style Crackle - Stamperia (Italy).
- One-step varnish Vintage design “I am a decorator” - Rusart company (Russia).
Unfortunately, each composition gives its own peculiar cracks, and it is unlikely that you will be able to choose the composition that you will definitely like the first time. Therefore, you should experiment with different compositions. Feel them and choose the best one for yourself.
Mistakes that are best avoided in one-step craquelure
Follow the instructions to avoid mistakes
Errors in preparing the base
- The porous base will absorb the craquelure medium, which will not be able to produce full cracks in the subsequent paint layer.
- Only one, thin or uneven, layer of primer or acrylic paint is applied to the base.
- The compositions are applied with a coarse (bristle) brush.
- A well-prepared base (wood, plaster, plastic, ceramics, etc.) is a surface with two layers of acrylic paint or primer.
- If you want to leave the color and texture of the base, you can coat it with a clear finishing varnish with a glossy or matte effect.
- Each layer of product applied to the base must be thoroughly dried.
Application of craquelure medium (composition)
As a rule, all craquelure compositions, regardless of price and manufacturer, allow you to achieve a cracking effect. They each do it in their own way, and working with each of them takes a little getting used to. However, there is general rules work.
Typical mistakes:
- The craquelure varnish medium was not mixed before use or was mixed too much and contains many air bubbles.
- An uneven layer of craquelure varnish is applied to the base (if unintentional, this is considered a mistake).
- The composition is applied with a rough, for example, bristle brush, leaving “grooves”.
Rules:
- Before use, you need to mix the composition well (for a uniform consistency) and wait a little (until any possible air bubbles disappear).
- Apply the composition with a flat synthetic brush (for a smooth, “grooved” coating). A thin layer of the product will cause small cracks, a thick layer will cause large cracks. An uneven layer will produce cracks of different sizes.
- If the composition is applied only to certain parts of the work, then craquelure will appear only in these places.
- The movements of the brush are directed in one direction, the composition is applied to the surface at a time.
Applying acrylic paint
This is perhaps the most subtle moment in the whole work. The final appearance of the work on creating cracks depends on the timing of this stage, the accuracy and uniformity of paint application.
Typical mistakes:
- The paint is applied too early, that is, when the craquelure varnish has not yet dried enough (it sticks and gets dirty).
- The paint is applied too late. For different compositions this is different period(you need to look at the description).
- The paint is applied in random directions (if not intended).
- The paint is not applied “in one pass”, but is applied to the still wet layer again or “fiddled” back and forth with a brush.
- A rough or, conversely, too soft (not elastic) brush is used.
Rules:
- The paint is applied at the moment when the craquelure varnish stops staining your finger when you touch it, but still sticks.
- To obtain large and rough cracks, paint can be applied a little ahead of schedule, making confident impasto strokes.
- To speed up the drying of the product, you can use a warm stream from a hair dryer.
- All areas with craquelure varnish must be covered with paint.
- The paint must be applied strictly in one layer (do not move the brush over the same place).
- The movements of the brush are directed in the same direction as when applying the medium (unless otherwise provided by the design).
- The composition is applied with a flat synthetic brush (for a smooth, “grooved” coating).
- A thin layer of paint will give thinner and more graceful cracks, a thick layer will produce larger and deeper ones. An uneven layer will produce cracks of different sizes and types.
Drying one-step craquelure
It's quite difficult to make a mistake at this stage. To speed up the final result, two options are possible: wait until everything happens on its own, or speed up the process of crack formation using a warm jet of a hair dryer (a hair dryer will also work).
Rules:
- Cracks begin to appear almost immediately, especially if the compounds are applied in a thin layer.
- Large cracks appear first, then they continue to grow and, as a rule, are covered with a network of smaller cracks.
- The heating process speeds up this process.
