This article talks about how to create a pattern for the base of a dress for beginners, in simple words, With detailed description and a drawing of each stage of construction.
The pattern - the basis - is a basic drawing of the product, made to individual measurements, made on paper, on the basis of which various styles are subsequently modeled.
Building a pattern - the basics - is necessary for both beginners in sewing and experienced seamstresses, and you need to treat it very responsibly. The quality of fit of the future product on the figure, its beauty and ease of wearing depends on how well the pattern is constructed. The accuracy of the patterns made on its basis depends on how well the pattern is made, and an error made in it, reaching the finished product, can develop into a serious defect.
Let's build a pattern for the base of the dress according to our measurements.
Materials and tools:
- paper (preferably graph paper), measuring tape, ruler, pencil
Measurements:
We measure on the figure, I indicate mine as an example, you measure yours.
— Dress length (Di) = 100 cm,
— Back length to waist (Lts) = 43 cm,
— Armhole depth (GPr) = 21 cm,
— Hip height (Wb) = 22 cm (taken from 20 to 22 cm without measurements, but I prefer to take measurements from the figure),
— Shoulder length (Ll) = 13 cm,
— Neck half-circumference (PoSh) = 17 cm,
— Half-circumference of the chest 1 (half-circumference above the chest, PoG1) = 42.5 cm,
— Half chest circumference 2 (half chest circumference, PoG, PoG2) = 46 cm,
— Half waist circumference (PoW) = 31 cm,
— Semi-hip circumference (PoB) = 48.5 cm
We calculate auxiliary measures
(formulas are valid for exhaust gas > 80 cm):
— Armhole depth GPr = OG/10 + (10.5_12 cm) = 92/10 + (10.5_12) = 19.7_21.2 cm. (In my case, the measured value was included in the calculated range, and GPr = 21 cm. If your values do not match, you need to take the average between the measured and calculated ones).
— Armhole width ShPr = OG/8 – 1.5 cm = 92/8 – 1.5 = 10 cm,
— Back width ShS = OG/8 + 5.5 cm = 92/8 + 5.5 = 17 cm,
— Chest width SH = OG/4 – 4 cm = 92/4 – 4 = 19 cm
Choosing the degree of fit of the dress When constructing a base pattern, it is necessary to take into account the allowance for freedom of fit (hereinafter referred to as PSO), this is the “amount of air” between the human body and the product. I will create a dress pattern with an adjacent silhouette, my increases are as follows:
PoG with PSO = 46 + 1.5 = 47.5 cm,
ShG with PSO = 19 + 1 = 20 cm,
ShS with PSO = 17 + 0 = 17 cm,
ShPR with PSO = 10 + 0.5 = 10.5 cm,
GPr with PSO = 21 + 0.5 = 21.5 cm
Constructing a pattern for the basis of a dress
Step 1. Construction of a basic rectangle. In the upper left corner, 10 cm from the top, place point A. Draw down a vertical line with a length of = Di = 100 cm. Mark point H. From point H, draw a horizontal line to the right with a length of PoG + PSO = 47.5 cm, mark point H1 (HH1 is located at an angle of 90˚ relative to AN). From point A, draw a horizontal line to the right 47.5 cm long, mark point A1. Connect points A1 and H1. The result is a quadrilateral AA1H1N, check that all angles in it are necessarily 90˚.
Step 2. Construction of contour lines.
Step 2a. Chest line. From point A along the line AN, lay down AG = GPr + PSO = 21.5 cm. Draw a horizontal line, mark point G1, as shown in the drawing.
Step 2b. Waistline. From point A along the line AN, lay down AT = Dts = 43 cm. Draw a horizontal line, mark point T1, as shown in the drawing.
Step 2c. Hip line. From point T along the line AN down, put TB = Wb = 22 cm. Draw a horizontal line, mark point B1, as shown in the drawing.
Step 3. Auxiliary armhole lines. On the chest line GG1, to the right of point G, set aside the value ShS + PSO = 17 cm, mark point P1, from point P1 to the right, set aside ShPr + PSO = 10.5 cm, mark point P2. Check the length of the segment P2G1, it should be equal to SHG + PSO = 20 cm. From points P1 and P2, construct perpendiculars to the segment AA1, mark points P3, P4.
Step 4. Side line. In the middle of the segment P1P2, mark point P and draw a vertical line to HH1.
Step 5. Back neckline. From point A to the right, set aside AA2 = PoSh/3 + 0.5 cm = 17/3 + 0.5 = 6.2 cm, I will round to 6.5 cm. From point A2 we build a perpendicular, on it at a distance of 2 cm from AA1 mark point A3. We connect AA3 with a smooth concave line.
Step 6. Back shoulder. From point P3, set down 1.5 cm, mark point P5. Connect points A3 and P5 with a straight line. From point A3, set aside DPl = 13 cm, mark point P6.
Step 7. Back opening. Divide the segment P3P1 in half, denoting the midpoint as P7. From point P1, construct a bisector of angle P3P1P 2 cm long. Draw a concave smooth line from point P3 to point P through point P7 and the bisector of angle P3P1P.
Step 8. Cut out the front neckline. From point G1 up, set aside G1A4 = PoG/2 + 0.5 cm = 23.5 cm. From point A4 to the left, draw a horizontal line, set aside segment A4A5 = PoSh/3 + 0.5 cm = 6.2 cm (I’ll round to 6.5 cm). From point A4 downwards, lay down the segment A4A6 = PoSh/3 +1.5 cm = 7.2 cm (I will round to 7.5 cm). Connect points A5 and A6 with a smooth concave line.
Step 9. Front shoulder and chest dart. From point A5 to the left, set aside 4 cm, then down 1 cm, mark point P8. Connect points A5 and P8 with a straight line.
From point P8, lower the perpendicular to the chest line. From the point of intersection of the perpendicular with the chest line, set aside 1 cm to the right, mark point G2. Connect points P8 and G2 with a straight line. Divide the segment P8G2 in half, from the division point to the left, construct a horizontal segment with length = PoG - PoG1 = 46 - 42.5 = 3.5 cm. Draw a straight line through the end of the segment from point G2, lay off the segment G2P9 = G2P8 on it.
On the back armhole line, mark the middle of the segment P3P7 with point P10. Connect points P9 and P10 with a straight line. On it, from point P9, lay a segment to the left = DPl - 4 cm (rounded length of segment A5P8) - 1 cm = 8 cm. From the end of the segment, lower a perpendicular to line P9P10 2 cm long, mark point P11. Connect P9 and P11 with a straight line.
When sewing, the dart will close, points P8 and P9 will align, line A5P8P9P11 is the shoulder line of the shelf, its length is slightly less length shoulders of the back, if after modeling the lengths of the shoulders do not change, then when sewing the shoulder of the back will need to be adjusted a little.
Step 10. Armhole of the shelf. From point P2 up, set aside the distance = 1/4P2P4. Mark point P12. Connect P11 and P12 with a straight line. Divide the segment P11P12 in half, from the resulting point to the right, construct a perpendicular to the segment P11P12, 1 cm long. From point P2, construct a bisector of the angle PP2P4, 2 cm long. Draw a concave smooth line from point P11 to point P through the perpendicular, point P12 and the bisector of the angle PP2P4.
Step 11. Tail darts. The sum of the solutions of all tackle darts = PoG – PoT = 46 – 31 = 15 cm. 1/3 of the sum we take it to the side darts (I have 15/3 = 5 cm). 2/3 of the amount (10 cm) for the front and back darts, and for the back dart we take a little more (6 cm). With this value of the solution, when sewing a dress, it is necessary to make 2 darts on the back (distribute 6 cm into two darts), but we are now building a base pattern, a base for further modeling various styles, and my dress size is small, so here I will build 1 dart with such a large opening, and when subsequently modeling a specific style, I will decide how many darts I need per finished product. There is 4 cm left for the front tuck.
Side darts. From point T2 to the right and left we set aside 5/2 = 2.5 cm. We connect the resulting points with straight lines to point P and to the middle point or 1/3 of the segment B2T2 (depending on the steepness of the hips).
Back dart. We divide the segment GP in half and lower the perpendicular to line BB1. On the perpendicular from the segment GP we put 2-3 cm down, from the segment BB1 up 2 cm. From point T2 to the right and left we put 6/2 = 3 cm. We build a dart.
Shelf tuck. From point G2 we lower the perpendicular to BB1. On the perpendicular from point G2 we put down 5-6 cm. From point T3 to the right and left we put 4/2 = 2 cm. We build a dart.
Step 12. Line the side seam of the bottom of the dress. We calculate the insufficient volume along the hip line = PoB - (PoG + PSO) = 48.5 - 47.5 = 1 cm. From line B2 to the right and left we plot the values = (insufficient volume + 1 cm)/2 = 1 cm. Draw lines side seam, as shown in the drawing (red line – back line, blue – front line), check the values (distance from B to the red line) + (distance from B1 to the blue line) = PoB + 1 cm.
Step 13. The pattern is ready. I advise you to leave it in this form on graph paper, and perform the modeling on copies taken on tracing paper.
Now you know how to build a base pattern according to your measurements and you can do it yourself.
Well, I finally got to the System of 10 measures from Paukšte with my tabular data. I built it, transferred it to mock-up fabric, put it on and was horrified. I took out an old table of measurements + some points according to Mueller and.... got down to business. I sat for 10 hours, if not more, and combined the construction with my comments. What is surprising about the Paukšte System is:
1. The length of the chest dart is equal to the height of the bust minus the length of the sprout (which is equal to the width of the sprout) - with this construction, the dart turned out to be closer to the armhole and 5-6 cm higher than the center of the chest. The arithmetic is generally incomprehensible to me.
2. The depth of the neck along the shelf CANNOT BE equal to the width of the neck +1cm!! My neck girth is 44 cm. To be honest, continue to build further according to the system - the depth of the neck will end up squeezing the neck - nonsense!
3.Neck width is calculated using the formula Neck circumference/3+0.5, i.e. If we imagine that we divide the circumference of the neck into three parts and add 0.5 cm to one of the parts and set this value aside from the Shelf Center Line, then, apparently, the intersection point of the neck and shoulder is not taken into account at all! You don't have it! And you will think that the neck does not fit into the “opening”!
4.Calculation of the chest dart solution. From the edge of the shoulder of the front, use a compass to set aside the difference (shoulder width minus the already set aside distance from the beginning of the neckline to the starting point of the dart. The remainder will be the dart. That’s why I have a bumpy dart, because the volume is incorrect. I don’t think it’s possible to calculate using the residual principle. Many people have not wide shoulders, but breasts are size 6-7 (maybe I’m wrong - correct me).
5.Common center line for back darts. First you build the upper (shoulder) one, then along the same axis you build the lower waist dart. It's a jamb again! My old system for constructing the back dart turned out to be more accurate (this is the center of the bust in half minus 0.5). Maybe I’m wrong here, but I’ve built it this way more than once and the dart fits perfectly.
6.When distributing darts along the waist line....from the center of the back along the waist line, set aside 1 cm to the right and build a dart. FOR WHAT? And then, from the total amount of tucks, subtracting this one unit, we calculate how many pieces we have enough... EVENLY! NON-SANE!
Waist darts are built according to the difference in the solution of these same darts.
dart solution (R) = (OG+8cm):2 minus (OT+3cm):2 Divide the resulting number by 4. For side darts, subtract 0.5cm from the resulting number. For darts in the middle of the front and back, add 0.5 cm. All these points are laid along the Waist Line.
Based on the total amount of darts and the difference in the width of the chest and waist, I have a large figure of 23 cm for darts. With such options, you can freely increase the central darts, but not the side ones, because displacement will occur. Therefore, a system of uniform distribution of darts is not suitable. I hope what I wrote will not be difficult to understand. I want to discuss it with those who are already working with the system, and maybe you can correct me or give me some advice. I'll wait for answers.
Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern - building the base.
If you decide to sew a dress, the first thing to start with is to take measurements and create a base pattern, which can be used to model any style. Today we will give you a step-by-step construction of the pattern for the base of the dress.
But first, let's take measurements.
To construct a drawing of a base pattern women's dress(size 48) you need to take the following measurements:
1. Dress length 100 cm
2. Back length to waist 38 cm
3. Shoulder length 13 cm
4. Half neck circumference 18 cm
5. Half circumference above the chest 44 cm
6. Half bust 48 cm
7. Half waist 37 cm
8. Half hip circumference 50 cm
9. Armhole depth 20.5 cm
IMPORTANT! All calculations performed when constructing a dress pattern are valid for a Bust Circumference (BC) of more than 80 cm.
Where to begin?
Before you start creating the base pattern for the dress, decide on the silhouette. It is important to determine for yourself what kind of dress you want to sew: tight-fitting, tight-fitting or loose. Based on this, we will make an increase in the freedom of fit of the product.
IMPORTANT! We recommend that you read it very carefully important information about how to add weight to your measurements. Then any product, no matter what you sew, will fit perfectly!
We are building a dress with a close-fitting silhouette and take an increase of 1.5 cm for the freedom of fit to the half-circumference of the chest (see the table of increases).
Calculation of auxiliary values
Let's calculate the auxiliary values that we will need when constructing the pattern:
Back Width (BW). Formula for calculation: 1/8 OG +5.5 cm = 17.5 cm
Armhole Width (ShPr). Formula for calculation: 1/8OG -1.5cm=10.5
Chest Width (CH). Formula for calculation: 1/4OG -4cm=20 cm
Armhole depth (GPr). We measure it or, to check the measurements, calculate it using the formula GPr = 1/10OG +10.5 = 20.5 cm. If the calculated value does not coincide with the measured value, take the average between them.
Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern.
Rice. 1 Fig. 2
Move 10-15 cm down from the top of the paper and place point A in the left corner. Down from point A, draw a vertical line 100 cm long (the length of the dress as measured). To the right of point A, draw a horizontal line with a length equal to 1/2 of the chest circumference according to the measurement of +1.5 cm (increase in freedom of fit) - points D and B are obtained - draw segments DC and BC.
Armhole line. From point A downwards set the Armhole Depth according to the measurement + 0.5 cm (increase in freedom of fit from Table 1) - points G and G1 are obtained. Draw a horizontal line.
Rice. 3 Fig. 4
From point G to the right, set aside the Back Width +0 cm (to fit freely) and the Armhole Width + 0.5 cm (to fit freely), chest width + 1 cm. In total, we added 0+0.5+1=1.5 cm - this is the increase that we included above. Draw vertical lines from the obtained points upward until they intersect with AB.
Waistline. From point A downwards, set the length of the back to the waist according to the measurement - point T. Draw segment TT1.
Hip line. From point T, set aside 20 cm downwards - the height of the hips as measured - point L. Draw segment LL1.
Rice. 5 Fig. 6
Side line. Divide the width of the armhole with the increase in half, draw a vertical line down from the division point until it intersects with DC - you get a side line. Divide the left and right auxiliary vertical lines of the armhole with crosses into 4 equal parts.
Back neckline. From point A, set aside 6.5 cm to the right (1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck as measured + 0.5 cm) and upward 2 cm (for all sizes). Draw a curved line for the back neckline.
Rice. 7 Fig. 8
Back shoulder. On the left auxiliary line of the armhole, set aside 1.5 cm from the top down. Connect points 2 (back neckline) and 1.5 (shoulder slope) with a straight line. The length of the shoulder according to the measurement is 13 cm. In the process of sewing the product, the length of the back shoulder is slightly adjusted.
Back armhole line. From the lower left corner (the width of the armhole), draw a bisector of the angle 2 cm long (for all sizes) and, using a template or by hand, draw a cutout for the back armhole, based on the control points: point 13, the middle auxiliary dividing point, point 2, to the side line.
Rice. 9 Fig. 10
Lifting the shelf. From point G1, set aside 24.5 cm upward (1/2 of the half-chest girth according to the measurement +0.5 cm) - point W. Draw a horizontal line from point W. Raise the auxiliary vertical line of the armhole (see Fig. 9).
IMPORTANT! The second way to lift the shelf is to set aside the measurement Length of front to waist from point T1 up (T1Sh).
Front neckline. From point W, set aside 6.5 cm to the left (1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck according to the measurement + 0.5 cm) and down 7.5 cm (1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck according to the measurement + 1.5 cm). Draw a front neckline according to the pattern (or by hand).
Rice. 11 Fig. 12
Front shoulder to dart. From point 6.5 (neck) set aside 4 cm to the left and 1 cm down (for all sizes). Draw a short sloping line.
From point 1 down, draw an auxiliary perpendicular with a dotted line to the armhole line GG1. Set aside 1 cm to the right and connect points 1-1 with a straight line (the right side of the chest dart is built).
Rice. 13 Fig. 14
Bust dart. Divide the right side of the chest dart in half and draw a horizontal line 4 cm long from the division point (Half chest circumference minus half circumference above the chest: 48-44 = 4 cm). Draw through point 4 left side bust dart length = length right side chest dart (Fig. 13).
Front shoulder line. Draw an auxiliary dotted line from the top of the left side of the bust dart to the top dividing point of the auxiliary line of the back armhole.
Rice. 15 Fig. 16
Along the auxiliary dotted line, set aside 8 cm (13 cm (shoulder length as measured) minus 4 cm (shoulder length to the right side of the chest dart) minus 1 cm) and down at a right angle 2 cm (for all sizes). Draw a front shoulder line.
From the extreme point of the front shoulder, draw an auxiliary dotted line to the lower point of dividing the auxiliary line of the armhole, cut it in half (Fig. 16). From the lower right corner (armhole) draw a bisector 2 cm long.
Rice. 17 Fig. 18
From the point of division of the auxiliary dotted line, place it at a right angle 1 cm to the right (Fig. 17). Using the pattern or by hand, draw the cutout of the front armhole along the control points: shoulder point, point 1, point 2, to the side.
Calculation of darts:
We calculate the darts in this way: 1/2 Bust circumference minus 1/2 Waist circumference = 48-37 = 11 cm. This is excess fabric around the waist, which we need to remove into darts. We put 1/3 of the resulting value in the side darts and 2/3 in the back and front - a little more in the back and a little less in the front.
Side darts: 11cm/3=3.6cm (rounded to 4cm) (Fig. 18). IMPORTANT! The side lines shift to the left and right from the starting line (hip circumference control: 1/2 of the hip circumference according to the measurement + 1 cm). The lack of volume at the hips + 1 cm is divided in half and added to the back and shelf on the sides (from the hip line to the bottom of the product).
The tuck on the back is 4 cm, on the front - 3 cm. Total 11 cm.
Rice. 19 Fig. 20
Back tuck: Divide the width of the back waist to the side in half and from the division point draw a vertical line to the armhole and hips. Draw a dart as shown in Fig. 19.
Front waist tuck. From the top of the bust dart, draw an auxiliary perpendicular to the waistline. Draw a dart as shown in Fig. 20.
Rice. 21 Fig. 22
ADVICE! If you have slim waist and a “kinky” back, excess fabric can be removed into the middle seam along the back and an additional dart (see Fig. 21 blue lines).
Rice. 22. Finished pattern. Re-make the front pattern and the back pattern of the dress separately and proceed to modeling.
Half girths (we divide girth measurements in half and get half girths):
Rice. 1
Ssh - half neck circumference
Сг1 - half chest circumference first
Сr2 - half chest circumference second
Сг3 - half chest circumference third
St - half waist circumference
Sat - half hip circumference
Lengths:
Rice. 2
Di - product length
DP - shoulder length
Lts - back length to waist
Accident - shelf length to waist
Rice. 3
Widths:
Shp - shoulder width
Shg - chest width
Shs - back width
Rice. 4
Heights:
Vpkg - shoulder height oblique chest 
Rice. 5
Vpks - shoulder height oblique back
Rice. 6
Vg - chest height
We take measurements from the figure according to Figures 1−4. When taking measurements of the circumference of the chest, waist, and hips, you need to take Special attention the fact that the measuring tape should be positioned strictly horizontally in the narrowest/widest place (depending on the measurement). When removing the girths, you do not need to tighten the tape, as this may lead to narrowing of the product. The most difficult task at this stage is to correctly measure the height of the back and front, as well as determine the designed line of the shoulder seam.
Increases in looseness of fit
The increases depend on the type of fabric, its elasticity, as well as the desired freedom of the product, and this must be taken into account when constructing. For example, we will take average values. We also need to take into account that we use increments to build half of the product.For an example of how to build a dress, we will take size 48 (this is size 96.0 cm across the chest) for height 164.
- paper (preferably graph paper), measuring tape, ruler, pencil
Sh = 18.5 cmСг1 =45.9 cm
Cr2 = 50.4 cm
Cr3 = 48.0 cm
St = 38.0 cm
Sat =52.0 cm
Di = 90.0 cm
Dts = 42.9 cm
Accident = 44.4 cm
Shp = 13.3 cm
W = 17.3 cm
Shs = 18.3 cm
Vpx =43.2 cm
Vprz = 21.5 cm
Bg = 27.5 cm
Increases:
Pg = 6.0 cmFri = 3.0 cm
Pb = 2.5 cm
Pshs = 0.8 cm
Pshp 0.3 cm
Psh pr = 4.9 cm
Pdts = 0.5 cm
Pdtp = 1.0 cm
Pshgor = 1.0 cm
Pspr = 2.0 cm
Calculation for creating a mesh:
Mesh width (A0a1) = Cr3+Pg=48.0+6.0= 54.0 cmBack width (A0a) = Shs+Pshs=18.3+0.8=19.1 cm
Shelf width (a1a2)= Шг+(Сг2-Сг1)+Пшп=17.3+(50.4−45.9)+0.3=22.1 cm
Armhole width (aa2)= Shpr=Shset-(Shsp+Shpol)= 54.0-(19.1+22.1)=12.8 cm
Armhole depth (A0G) = Vprz + Pspr 0.5*Pdts =21.5+2.0+0.5*0.5 = 23.8 cm
Waist line position (A0T) = Dts+Pdts = 42.9+0.5 cm = 43.4 cm
Hip line position (A0B) = Dts/2−2 = 42.9/2−2 = 19.5 cm
The position of the bottom line of the product (A "H1) = Di + Dts = 90.0 + 0.5 cm = 90.5 cm (the length of the back should be set aside after constructing the neck of the back), but at this stage we will set aside the length of the product from point A1.
Meshing
Step 1
Rice. 7
The first construction point is point A0 and from it we set the width of the grid to the right - 54.0 cm, draw a line and put point a1 at the end of the segment.
To the right of point A0 on line A0a1 we set aside the width of the backrest and get point a.
To the left of point a1 on line A0a1 we set aside the width of the shelf and get point a2.
Segment aa2 is the width of the armhole.
Down from point A0 we set aside the height of the mesh and put point H at the end of the segment - the length of the product. Corresponds to the bottom line of the product (at this stage).
From point A0 downwards we plot the position of the chest line on line A0G and get point G.
Also, from point A0 on segment A0G, the position of the waist line is plotted and we obtain point T.
And we postpone the position of the hip line from point T on the segment A0G and get point B.
From point a1 down we also set off the height of the grid and get point H3. We close the rectangle.
From points G, T and B we draw horizontal lines and get points G3, T3 and B3 at the intersection with line a1H3.
In turn, from points a and a2 we lower the vertical to the chest line GG3 and get points G1 and G4.
The first and important stage of creating a mesh should look like shown in Fig. 7.
Drawing the backrest
Step 2
Rice. 8
From point A0 we put it to the left on a line of 0.5 cm - this is the outlet of the center of the back at the top. We get point A0".
From point A0" down along the line A0H we plot the level of the shoulder blades, which is 0.4*Dts = 0.4*42.9 = 17.2 cm and we get point Y. We connect point Y to point A0" with a time line.
We build the depth of the neck of the back A0"A = A2A1 = 7.2/3 = 2.4 down from point A0" on the line A0"U. We complete the rectangle and draw the line of the neck of the back with a pattern curve.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 8.
Step 3
Rice. 9
From point T to the left on the waist line TT3 we set aside a bend along the waist line = 1.5 cm, for semi-adjacent products. We get point T1.
To construct the middle seam of the back, we put a bend from point H to the right equal to the bend along the waist line of 1.5 cm and get point H1. We draw the middle back seam through points A-U-T1-H1.
From the neck of the back, along the middle seam, we put the length of the back down and get point H (the correct length).
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 9.
Step 4
Rice. 10
We build the end point of the shoulder, for this we build a radius from point A2 equal to Шп + tuck opening = 13.3+2.0 = 15.3 cm, where the dart opening is equal to 2.0 cm. And also the second radius from point T1 equal to Vpk+ Pvpk, where Ppvk=Pdts+Ppn (increase on the shoulder pad, in in this case=0), and we get 43.2+0.5 = 43.7 cm.
At the intersection of the radii from points A2 and T1 we place point P1.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 10.
Step 5
Rice. eleven
We begin the construction of the shoulder dart by determining the position of the dart along the shoulder seam. The dart should be located 1/3 - ¼ of the shoulder width: 1/3 * 13.3 - ¼ + 13.3 = 4.4 - 3.3, let's take the value 4.0 cm.
When constructing the shoulder seam, we took the tuck opening = 2.0 cm. We put point I1 on the shoulder from point A2 and point I2 in increments of 2.0 cm. Next, from points I1 and I2 we draw a radius equal to 7.0 cm and get point I. We connect points I and I1 and I2. To align the shoulder seam, it is necessary to increase the sides of the darts from the shoulder seam by 0.2 cm.
We connect the sides of the darts with the neck points A2 and the end of the shoulder seam P2. From point P2 to the vertical a1G1 we draw a perpendicular; we will need it to calculate the auxiliary lines of the armhole.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. eleven.
Step 6
Rice. 12
We build auxiliary points of the armhole based on the length of line P1G1 - the length of this section is 18.9 cm. To build point P3 = 18.9/3 + 2.0 cm = 8.3 cm. We set point P3 from point G1 from the chest line to segment G1a1.
From the corner G1 of the armhole we draw a bisector with length = Шр*0.2 + 0.5 cm = 12.8*0.2 + 0.5 = 3.1 cm.
Auxiliary point G2 is located in the middle of the armhole width, i.e. Шр/2 = 12.8/2 = 6.4 cm.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 12.
Step 7
Rice. 13
The back armhole line is drawn with a smooth line, while point P2 should have a right angle.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 13.
Building a drawing of a shelf
Step 8
Fig.14
To construct the chest center point, the distance G3G4/2 - 1.0 = 22.½ - 1.0 = 10.1 cm is set aside from point G3 to the right and we get point G6.
For products of the dress group, we draw up a descent of the waist line = 0.5 cm, for this we put 0.5 cm down from point T3 and get point T31. From this point we draw a horizontal line to the left with a length equal to the width of G3G6.
To construct the width of the neck of the shelf Ssh/3 + Pshgor = 18.5/3 + 1.0 = 7.2 cm, we move from point A3 to the left horizontally and get point A4. We calculate the depth of the neck using the formula A3A4 +1.0 = 8.2 cm and draw a radius from points A4 on the vertical A3T3 and get the neck point A5. In turn, from points A5 and A4 with a radius equal to the depth of the neck, we make serifs and get an auxiliary point A3" from which we draw the arc of the neck of the shelf.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 14.
Step 9
Fig.15
Highest point position mammary glands we put it away from point A4 with a radius equal to Br = 27.5 cm and get point G7.
At the intersection of two arcs with the radius of the chest height from point G7 and the radius of the dart opening from point A4, we find point A9.
We connect points A9 and A4 with point G7 and get a chest dart for the front.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 15.
Step 10
Rice. 16
To determine the auxiliary points, it is necessary to calculate the position of point P4 on the segment a2G4. To do this, the distance P1G1 (from the drawing) - 1.0 cm = 18.9 - 1.0 = 17.9 cm, we get the distance P4G4. Next, this distance G4P4/3 = 6.0 cm and we put this distance from point G4 up and get point P6.
Point P5 is obtained at the intersection of arcs from point A9 - shoulder width = 13.3 cm and from point P6 equal to distance P6P4 = 11.9 cm.
We draw a shoulder line through points A9P5.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 16.
Step 11
Fig.17
To construct the armhole of the shelf, draw an auxiliary line, in the middle of which we set a perpendicular 1.0 cm long.
From corner G4 to construct the armhole we draw a bisector Шр*0.2 = 12.8*0.2 = 2.6 cm.
Through points P5 - P6 - G2 and the constructed perpendiculars we draw the line of the armhole of the shelf.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 17.
Construction of lateral lines
Step 12
Rice. 18
We will start constructing the side lines along the chest line from point G4 - this is the middle of the armhole. From point G4 downwards we draw a vertical line, this is the center line of the side seam.
At the intersection with the line of the waist, hips and bottom we get points T2-B2-H2, respectively.
To design the side seam, take 0.4*R-r outt waist = 0.4*11.5 = 4.6 and divide this amount by two, since this is a complete dart solution in the side seam. To do this, 4.6/2 = 2.3 cm and set aside in each direction from point T2. And we get points T21 and T22.
Next, we calculate the expansion along the hips, for this (Sb + Pb) - B1B3 = (52 + 2.5) - 52.5 = 2.0 cm. We also divide it in half 2/2 = 1.0 cm, in order postpone the expansion along the hips on both sides of point B2. And we get points B21 and B22.
In this example of construction, we will leave the dress with a straight silhouette at the bottom, so along the hem line along the side seam we set aside the same values as along the hips. And we get points H21 and H22.
Through points G4-T21-B22-H22 and G4-T22-B21-H21 we draw the lines of the side seam of the front and back.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 18.
Step 13
Rice. 19
To construct a dart along the back waist line, we determine the position of the dart along the waist line on the back, for this, the distance T1T21/2 = 21.8/2 = 10.9 cm and get point T4.
Next, we calculate the tuck solution along the waist line (R-r out waist - R-r out waist side) * 0.55 = (11.5 - 4.6) * 0.55 = 3.8 cm. We also divide this solution in half 3.8/2 =1.9 and set aside from point T4 and get points T41 and T42.
The height of the dart from the waistline up and down is 15.0 cm - we get points K1 and K2, respectively.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 19.
Step 14
Rice. 20
To construct a dart along the waist line of the shelf, we use the position of the center of the chest on the shelf; to do this, down from the waist line from point T6, we lower the vertical to the hip line - we get point T5.
Next, we calculate the tuck solution along the line waist size vyt tal - R-r vyt tal side-R-r vytal sp = 11.5 - 4.6 - 3.8 = 3.1 cm. We also divide this solution in half 3.½ = 1.55 and set it aside from point T5 and we get points T51 and T52.
The height of the dart from the waistline up and down is the same as on the back, 15.0 cm - we get points K3 and K4.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 20.
Step 15
Rice. 21
To build relief lines, it is necessary to transfer part of the chest dart of the front. To do this, with a notch equal to the distance from the neckline to the back dart = 4.0 cm, set aside 4.0 cm on the shoulder line of the front and get point A81.
We connect point A81 and point G7 - this is the length of the transfer radius of the chest dart = 26.3 cm.
Now from point A4 we set aside the radius A4A8, equal to the section A9A81 = 4.0 cm, put the first notch, and from point G7 with a radius equal to the segment A81G7, we make the second notch. At the intersection of the radii we obtain point A8. Then we connect points A8 and G7, as well as points A8 and A4 - we get a shoulder line to the shelf relief line and a section of the shelf relief.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 21.
Step 16
Rice. 22
To design the bottom line of the product, you need to lower the line of the center of the shelf - the descent of the bottom line H3H31 is 1.0 cm.
We lower the lines of the reliefs of the shelf and back to the bottom line and get points H4 and H5, respectively.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 22.
Rice. 23
The construction of the dress has come to an end and our drawing should look as shown in Fig. 23.
Step 17
Rice. 24
Next, you need to transfer the main parts of the shelf, the barrel of the shelf, the back and the barrel of the back onto tracing paper and add seam allowances.
This construction stage should look like shown in Fig. 24.
If these are your first steps in design, then the design needs to be checked, that is, sew the dress from mock-up fabric and try it on to be sure that there are no errors in calculations and construction.
Also, after construction, it is necessary to add details of the facings of the neckline and armholes of the back and front. And also, if desired, decorative elements- yokes, flounces, edgings, etc.
Photo: website
Text and illustrations: Olga Kuznetsova
Material prepared by Anna Soboleva
Take the following measurements:
For example, I use the standard size 48, and you take measurements from your figure or from the figure of the person for whom you are going to sew this dress.
Name of measurements and symbols |
cm |
Taking measurements |
|---|---|---|
Half neck circumference |
Measure at the base of the neck. The measurement is recorded in half size. |
|
Half chest |
This measurement determines the size of the figure. The measuring tape should go along the protruding parts of the shoulder blades on the back and along the highest part of the chest. The measurement is recorded in half size. |
|
Half waist |
Measure at the narrowest point of the waist. The measurement is recorded in half size. |
|
Half hip circumference |
Measure horizontally along the most protruding points of the buttocks, taking into account the bulge of the abdomen. The measurement is recorded in half size. |
|
Measure from the seventh cervical vertebra to the waist line. The measurement is recorded in full. |
||
Measure by placing a measuring tape horizontally between the back corners of the armpits at the level of the protruding parts of the shoulder blades. The measurement is recorded in half size. |
||
Front length to waist |
Measure from the shoulder line at the base of the neck through the protruding point of the chest to the waist line. The measurement is recorded in full. |
|
Chest height |
Measure from the shoulder line at the base of the neck to the protruding point of the chest. (This measurement is performed simultaneously with the previous one.) |
|
Center of the chest |
Measure along a horizontal line between the protruding points of the chest. The measurement is recorded in half size. |
|
Shoulder length |
Measure along the shoulder line from the base of the neck to the shoulder joint. The measurement is recorded in full. |
|
Arm circumference |
Measure around the arm at the armpit. The measurement is recorded in full. |
|
Wrist circumference |
Measured at the wrist joint. The measurement is recorded in full. |
|
Sleeve length to elbow |
Measure from the shoulder joint to the elbow. The measurement is recorded in full. |
|
The length of the sleeve |
Measure from the shoulder joint to the hand. The measurement is recorded in full. |
|
Length of the product |
Measure from the seventh (protruding) cervical vertebra in the middle of the back to the required length. The measurement is recorded in full. |
|
Loose fit allowances: |
||
On the left side of the prepared sheet of paper, draw a vertical line on which to mark the length of the dress, in our case 110 cm, and put points A and H. Draw perpendicular lines through A and H to the right.
From A to the right, set aside half the chest circumference plus 5 cm. and place point B (48+5=53cm). Draw a line from B down to the intersection with the bottom line and place point H1.
Rice. 2
From A down, set the length of the back to the waist plus 0.5 cm and put T (38 + 0.5 = 38.5 cm). From T to the right, draw a line to the intersection with line BH1, at the intersection place point T1.
Rice. 3
From T down, set aside 1/2 of the length of the back to the waist and place B (38/2=19cm). From B to the right, draw a line, mark the intersection with BH1 as B1.
Rice. 4
From A to the right, set aside the width of the back plus 1.5 cm and put A1 (18 + 1.5 = 19.5 cm).
Rice. 5
From A1 to the right, set aside 1/4 of the half-circumference of the chest plus 0.5 cm. and put A2 (48:4+0.5=12.5). From A1 and A2 down, draw lines of arbitrary length.
Rice. 6
From A to the right, set aside 1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck plus 0.5 cm and place A3 (18:3+0.5=6.5). For figures with fat deposits in the area of the seventh cervical vertebra, the neck width is increased by 0.5 cm. From A3 up, set aside 1/10 of the half-circumference of the neck plus 0.8 cm and place A4 (18:10 + 0.8 = 2.6 cm). Divide the angle at point A3 in half and draw a line. On this line, set aside 1/10 of the half-circumference of the neck minus 0.3 cm and place A5, (18:10-0.3 = 1.5 cm). Connect the resulting points A4, A5 and A with a smooth curve.
Rice. 7
From A1, set down 2.5 cm for normal shoulders, 3.5 cm for sloping shoulders, 1.5 cm for high ones and place point P. Connect points A4 and P. From A4, set aside the shoulder length plus 2cm for the dart and put P1 (13.5+2=15.5cm). On the resulting line A4P1 from A4 to the right, set aside 4 cm and place point O. From O down, set aside 8 cm and place O1. From O to the right, set aside 2 cm and place O2. Connect points O1 and O2. From point O1 through point O2, set aside a value equal to the segment O.O1 - 8 cm (so that the sides of the dart are the same length) and put O3. Connect points O3 and P1.
Rice. 8
From P down, set aside ¼ of the half-circumference of the chest plus 7 cm. (for stooped figures plus 7.5 cm, for kinky figures plus 6.5 cm) and place point G (48: 4 + 7 = 19 cm). For overweight women(size 58 and larger) the armhole depth is made 1 cm less. Through G to the left and right, draw a horizontal line until it intersects with AN, denote G1, with the line of the armhole width G2, with the line BH1, denote G3.
Rice. 9
From G up, set aside 1/3 of the distance PG plus 2 cm and place P2 (19: 3 + 2 = 8.3). Divide the angle at point G in half and set aside 1/10 of the armhole width plus 1.5 cm and place point P3 (12.5:10 + 1.5 = 2.8 cm), divide line GG2 in half and place G4. Connect points P1, P2, P3 and G4.
Rice. 10
From G2 up, set aside ¼ of the half-circumference of the chest plus 5 cm (for stooped figures plus 4.5 cm, for kinky figures plus 5.5 cm) and place P4 (48: 4 = 5 = 17 cm). For overweight women (size 58 and larger), the front armhole cut is 1cm smaller. From P4 to the left, set aside 1/10 of the half-circumference of the chest and place P5 (48:10 = 4.8 cm); from G2 up, set aside 1/3 of the size of the segment G2P4 and place P6 (17:3 = 5.7). Connect P5 and P6 with a dotted line, divide in half and set aside 1 cm to the right at a right angle. Divide the angle at point G2 in half and set aside 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 0.8 cm, put P7 (12.5:10+0.8=2.1 cm) connect P5,1,P6,P7,G4.
Rice. eleven
From G3 up, set aside 1/2 of the half-circumference of the chest plus 1.5 cm and place B1 (48: 2 + 1.5 = 25.5 cm). For stooped figures, set aside 1/2 of the half-circumference of the chest plus 1 cm, for kinky figures plus 2 cm. For obese women (size 58 and larger), the neckline cut is 1 cm smaller. From G2 up, set aside the same amount and put B2. Connect B1 and B2. From B1 to the left, set aside 1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck plus 0.5cm and place B3 (18:3+0.5=6.5cm). From B1 down, set aside 1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck plus 2cm and place B4 (18:3+2=8cm). Connect B3 and B4 with a straight line and divide it in half. From B1 through the division point, draw a line on which set aside 1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck plus 1cm and place B5 (18:3+1=7cm). We connect points B3, B5 and B4 and get the line of the neck of the shelf.
Rice. 12
Center of the chest. From G3 to the left, set aside the measurement for the center of the chest and place G6. From G6, draw a line upward until it intersects with the line B1B2. At the intersection, place point B6.
From B6 down, set aside the chest height measurement and put G7
Rice. 13
From B6, set aside 1 cm down and place B7. Connect points B3 and B7. Connect points B7 and P5 with a dotted line. Along line P5 B7 from point P5 to the right, set aside the length of the shoulder minus the value of the segment B3B7 minus 0.3 cm and put B8 (13.5-3-0.3 = 10.2 cm). From point G7 through point B8, draw a segment equal in length to segment G7B7 and place B9. Connect points B9 and P5.
Rice. 14
Start of construction. From G to the right, set aside 1/3 of the armhole width and place G5 (12.5:3 = 4.2 cm). draw a vertical line through point G5. At the intersection with the armhole line, place point P; at the intersection with the lines of the waist, hips and bottom, place points T2, B2, H2.
Rice. 15
Determining the solution of darts along the waist line. To the half-waist measurement, add 1cm for a loose fit (38+1=39), then subtract this value from the width of the dress along the TT1 line (53-39=14cm). We get a total dart solution of 14 cm. The size of the front dart opening is equal to 0.25 of the total dart opening (14x0.25=3.5cm), side 0.45 (14x0.45=6.3cm), rear 0.3 (14x0.3=4.2cm).
Determining the width of the dress along the hip line. Add 2cm to the hip circumference for a loose fit (53+2=55cm). From the resulting value, subtract the width of the dress along line BB1 (55-53=2cm). Distribute the result equally between the shelf and the back, i.e. 1cm each
Let's start building darts. Set aside 1 cm from B2 to the left and right and place B3 and B4. From T2 to the left and to the right, set aside half of the side dart solution (6.3:2 = 3.2) and place T3 and T4. Connect point P to points T3 and T4. Connect points T3 B4 and T4 B3 with a dotted line, divide it in half, set aside 0.5 cm from the division points to the side and connect them with a smooth curve to points B3 T4 and the other side with B4 T3.
Rice. 16
NOTE: If the semi-circumference of the hips plus the increase for a loose fit is less than the width of the dress, the result will be negative. For example, if with a half-circumference of the chest of 48 cm, the half-circumference of the hips is 50 cm, then when calculating we get negative meaning(50+2 – 53= –1cm). We distribute this value equally between the shelf and the back (-1: 2 = - 0.5 cm) and set aside B3 and B4 from point B2 to the left and right, 0.5 cm each. See figure "If the result is negative"
Rice. 17
If during the calculation you get zero as a result, then points B3 and B4 will coincide with point B2.
See figure "When the result is zero"
Rice. 18
From B1 down, set aside the length of the front waist plus 0.5 cm and put T5 (43 + 0.5 = 43.5 cm). Connect T4 and T5 with a smooth line.
From B1 down, set aside the value of the segment T1, T5 and place B5. Connect points B5 and B3 with a smooth line.
Rice. 19
Divide the distance G, G1 in half, mark the division point as G8. From G8, lower the line down until it intersects with line B, B1. At the intersections with the waist line and hip line, place dots and label them T6 and B6. From T6 to the left and to the right, set aside half of the back dart solution (4.2:2 = 2.1) and place T7 and T8. From G8 down, set aside 1 cm; from B6 up, set aside 3 cm. Connect these points to T7 and T8.
Rice. 20
From G6 down, draw a line until it intersects with line B, B1. Mark the intersections with the lines of the waist and hips as T9 and B7. From T9 to the left and to the right, set aside half of the front dart solution (3.5:2 = 1.7) and place T10 and T11. From G7 down, and from B7 up, set aside 4 cm, place points and connect them with T10 and T11.
Rice. 21
Shelf bottom line. From B3 and B4, draw lines down to the intersection of I with H, H1 and label H3 and H4. If the dress should be widened downwards from H3 and H4 to the left and right, set aside 3-7 cm and connect with B3 and B4. In the drawing these lines are shown as dotted lines. From H1 down, set aside the value of the segment T1T5 and place point H5. Connect points H3 and H5.
Rice. 22
All. The pattern for the base of the dress is ready.
This is the basic drawing on the basis of which you can design any style from the whole variety of dress styles.
Rice. 23
I wish you all creative inspiration!
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