“Cutting out a sewing product”
5, 6,7 grade
Test on the topic “Cutting a garment”, grade 5
(one or more).
1. The arrow on the pattern sheet means:
a) direction of the filament;
b) direction of the transverse thread.
2. Cutting is:
a) cutting out paper parts of a garment obtained in accordance with the drawing;
b) the process of obtaining fabric parts by cutting them from a piece of fabric;
c) the process of obtaining fabric parts by cutting them from a piece of fabric in accordance with the pattern details, taking into account seam allowances.
c) the width of the fabric;
d) direction of weft threads;
e) the amount of seam allowances.
Write the correct answers: the right side of the fabric from the wrong side can be determined:
Indicate the correct sequence of technological operations when laying out a pattern on fabric:
b) arrange large parts;
c) pin the fabric with pins;
e) pin large parts;
h) mark allowances for processing;
i) trace the details along the contour;
j) determine the lobar thread.
Answers:
a, b, c, d
a) by the brightness and clarity of the picture; b) by the presence of shine;
5. j, f, c, b, a, d, d, i, h, g
Test on the topic “Cutting a garment”, grade 6
Write all correct answers (one or more).
1. Transferring the pattern to fabric is carried out using:
a) running stitches;
c) copy stitches;
d) tailor's chalk;
e) oblique stitches.
2. Fabric width is:
g) determine the lobar thread;
h) pin small and large parts;
i) arrange large and small parts.
Answers:
b, c, d
g, c, a, i, h, d, b, d, f
Test on the topic “Cutting a garment”, grade 7
Write all correct answers (one or more)
1. The control lines on the cut details are laid with stitches:
a) estimates;
b) copying;
c) oblique.
2. When cutting out a hem facing, its grain thread is placed:
b) across the facing;
c) at an angle of 45 degrees;
d) in the direction of the grain of the main part;
e) perpendicular to the grain of the main part.
3.When cutting fabric, use scissors:
a) manicure;
b) garden;
c) clerical;
d) tailor's.
When cutting out bias tape, its grain is placed:
b) across the binding;
c) at an angle of 45 degrees to the grain of the fabric;
d) along the binding.
When cutting the product, you must consider:
b) direction of warp threads;
e) direction of the pile.
Answers:
a B C D E
Let's consider the manufacturing technology of the shoulder product. It could be:
- without a collar with a neckline of any shape, which is processed in several ways;
- sleeveless (use ready-made pattern from a fashion magazine) or with a short one-piece sleeve (make the pattern yourself according to the basic drawing);
- straight, widened at the bottom (tunic blouse, nightgown, robe) or fitted silhouette with darts at the waist and chest (sheath dress) with a frill at the bottom;
- one-piece or cut along the waist, hips;
- without fastening or with button fastening at the front;
- with a fastener in the middle back seam or in the side seams.
IN creative project, which you will carry out according to your plan, you can model a product containing only part of the listed elements. Knowledge of processing technology for other elements will be useful to you in the future.
§ 24. Cutting the product
Cutting is a complex and important part of making a garment. When cutting material, greater precision is needed, because mistakes cannot always be corrected. Before you start cutting material, you need to check several times that the parts are positioned correctly. Workplace for cutting should consist of a large table around which you can move freely and approach the laid out parts from any side.
The sequence of preparing fabric for cutting
- Align the cuts: pull out one of the threads along the cut of the fabric and cut a strip of fabric along this marking.
- To eliminate skew: fold the fabric with aligned cuts lengthwise in half, right side inward, aligning the edges. If the fabric is skewed, stretch it diagonally, holding the corners.
- Cut the edges of the fabric: they can be stiff, shaggy and subsequently shrink a lot.
- Detect defects: carefully examine the fabric before laying to identify holes, stains, uneven coloring, thickening of threads. Such places should be marked with chalk or colored thread so that when cutting they do not end up on the pattern pieces.
- Determine the front side of the fabric by the brightness of the printed pattern, the type of weave, the quality of the fabric surface, and the edge.
- Determine the grain thread - it runs along the edges of the fabric. If there are no edges, the fabric is stretched: in the lobar direction the stretch is less than in the transverse direction.
- Lay the fabric: lay it out on the table in one of the following ways: folded or spread.
Rules for laying out patterns on fabric
To ensure that the product stretches less when worn and does not lose its shape, when laying out the pattern on the fabric, you need to ensure that the direction of the grain of the fabric and the direction of the arrow on the pattern coincide.
If the fabric has a one-sided pattern, pile or shiny surface, all pattern pieces are laid out with the top cuts in one direction.
First, lay out the large parts that will be cut into the fold. The edge of the pattern with the words “fabric fold” is laid exactly to the fold (Fig. 71).
Rice. 71. Layout of folded parts patterns on fabric
The pattern pieces are attached to the fabric with pins: first, the corners of the patterns are pinned to the fabric, placing the pins diagonally, then the edges of the pieces along the seam allowances, placing the pins along the seam lines. The distance between the pins is 7.5 cm. On rounded areas and on slippery fabric, pins are inserted more often.
When marking allowances for processing (for seams and hems), their size depends on the purpose and type of seam, as well as on the fraying of the processed section of the part or product.
Cutting rules
When cutting, the wide blade of the scissors should rest on the table surface.
Cut the material exactly along the intended line, with confident movements, completely closing the blades of the scissors. In the rounded areas, the cuts are made shorter. Use your free hand to hold the edge of the paper pattern.
Control notches are made with a simple cut or corner, but not deeper than the seam allowance. Notches mark the edges and middle of darts and folds, the middle of the front and back at the neckline.
Bias bindings are cut at an angle of 45° to the direction of the grain thread. If there is not enough material to cut out the binding of the required length, it is cut out from several parts.
Paper patterns are not peeled off immediately, so as not to mix up the cut details.
The scraps remaining from cutting are not thrown away, but are used for test stitches and loops.
Practical work No. 18
Cutting the product
Materials and tools: fabric for making a project item, shoulder pattern, tailor's scissors, pins, tailor's chalk, ruler, measuring tape, textbook.
- Prepare the fabric for cutting.
- Lay out the shoulder pattern pieces on the fabric.
- Cut out the design product.
Control
- The patterns are arranged according to the design.
- The direction of the grain thread on the fabric coincides with the arrow on the pattern.
- The middle of the pattern pieces coincides with the fold of the fabric.
- Allowances for processing are given correctly for all sections.
- All details are cut out.
- Control notches were made.
- The seam allowances are not cut.
New concepts
Cutting work, cutter.
Control questions
1. What is the difference between cut details and pattern details? 2. What requirements must be met when cutting? 3. How to cut bias tape exactly at an angle of 45° to the grain thread?
Preparing fabric for cutting. Open it up.
Strengthen skills in preparing fabric for cutting;
Strengthen the skill of economical layout of patterns on fabric
Development of research skills - putting forward hypotheses and testing them;
Foster independence, the ability to overcome difficulties in
problematic situations.
During the classes:
Challenge Stage.
Showing a fragment of the cartoon “Greedy Rich Man”.
WITH sheep skin to the furrier
A rich neighbor came in:
- Make a hat from this skin
Can you or can't you?
- Can! - the furrier said in response,
Looking at the skin.
- Will there be two? - asked the rich man,
Squatting down.
What do you think the furrier answered? Why?
Children's answers:
The furrier answered the rich man in the affirmative, since the customer did not specify the size of the hat. Fabric consumption for a product may depend not only on the size, but also on the model, width and quality of the fabric.
The teacher records the answers on the board.
How many hats did the furrier sew for the merchant and why? Read the text.
Children's answers:
In order not to find yourself in such an unpleasant situation, let's remember the sequence of preparing the fabric for cutting. Now I will give you cards, you must determine the sequence of actions for preparing the fabric for cutting (put down the numbers). Check your work against this example.
Preparing fabric for cutting.
Most fabrics need to be sanforize(moistening and drying to avoid shrinkage of the finished product)
Determine the grain thread, the front and back sides, the direction of the pattern or pile;
Check for weaving defects;
Cut off edges if they tighten the fabric;
Iron the fabric to remove wrinkles;
Fold the fabric along the grain with the right side inward, aligning the pattern;
Align the cross section of the fabric using a square.
We repeated the sequence of preparing the fabric for cutting. In order to carry out practical work, today we need to decide on the choice of models of nightgowns and potholders.
Speech by individual students with pre-prepared messages in the form of presentations:
a) girls talk about nightgowns and show their models;
b) boys report on potholders and introduce their types.
Task for the rest of the students at this stage of the lesson: choose your favorite options for a nightgown and potholders, sketch them on sheets of paper.
Justification for your choice.
(During the discussion, students become convinced that fabric consumption depends on many options, that the simpler the model, the less fabric consumption).
Preparation for practical work.(teacher's story)
Cutting is one of the most important processes in tailoring. It is divided into two stages: preparing the fabric for cutting and cutting itself.
Patterns are laid out on fabric in several ways:
- in the fold– the fabric is folded in half lengthwise with the right side inward; This is how paired parts and parts with a fold are cut.
- in a turn- the fabric is turned wide; This method is used for cutting single parts.
- in two layers- the fabric is laid in two layers and two parts are cut out at once; suitable for several identical parts, as well as mirror parts (shelves, etc.)
Laying out patterns on fabric and cutting should be done on a large table or a flat, smooth surface. In this case, special attention is paid to the placement of patterns (patterns) on the fabric in relation to the warp and weft threads, pile, as well as in relation to stripes, checks and other patterns. The strips on the fabric must match exactly when cutting. The check pattern must match in paired (shelves, sleeves, pockets, etc.) panels of fabric relative to the transverse stripes and checks.
The patterns are fixed on the fabric with pins and outlined with sharp chalk (pencil, soap), taking into account seam allowances.
Cutting is done with sharp scissors along the second marked line (the parts are cut with seam allowances). All pattern lines are transferred to the mirror parts using snares, chalk or a copy cutter.
2. Children are given memory cards. Layout of patterns on fabric.
1. Lay out the large pattern pieces first
Combine the grain thread on the pattern pieces with the grain thread on the fabric.
On fabrics with a one-sided pattern and on pile fabrics, the pattern pieces should be placed in the same direction.
The details of the patterns must be arranged so that the layout is economical.
The pattern pieces must be pinned to the fabric and then the pattern should be chalked along the contour. The second line should be marked with a dotted line, taking into account seam allowances.
Cut the pieces along the second chalk line, taking into account the seam allowances.
3. Next, students perform training exercises for laying out patterns on fabric in M 1:4, choosing one of the options, thanks to which one of the most difficult and time-consuming learning activities for children of this age becomes more understandable and even fun.
Carrying out practical work ""Laying out patterns of parts on fabric and cutting""(work in pairs)
Introductory training on TB
Place the scissors on the right with the blades closed, pointing away from you.
Pass the scissors with closed blades and rings forward.
Monitoring the progress of students’ practical work)
Control 1.
Are the patterns placed correctly on the fabric based on the design?
Does the direction of the grain thread on the fabric coincide with its designation on the pattern?
Are the parts outlined accurately? Are all reference points marked on the fabric?
Are the allowances given correctly?
Make a cut.
Control 2.
Are all the cut details available?
Are control points marked along the waist line?
Are the seam allowances even?
Is the direction of the fabric thread indicated?
3) Ongoing teacher briefing (conducted as students complete independent work).
4) Advertising the work of students.
Reflection Stage.
What new and important things did you learn in class today? What tasks did you find difficult to complete? How do you evaluate your work?
| Lesson stage, stage time | Stage tasks | Methods, teaching techniques | Forms of educational interaction | Teacher activities | Student activities | Formed UUD and subject actions |
| Motivational-target stage | Arouse an emotional mood and cognitive interest in the problem; Organize independent problem formulation and goal setting | Pointing to a problem using a cartoon video clip | frontal | Creates problematic situation. Invites students to discuss and solve the problem. | Watching a fragment of a cartoon. Discuss and solve the problem based on life experience | Cognitive UUD: see the problem (realize the difficulties encountered in solving problems in the absence of the necessary knowledge); Communicative UUD: participation in a collective discussion of the problem; Personal UUD: Be aware of incomplete knowledge and show interest in new content. Regulatory UUD: Determine the goals of educational activities. |
| Approximate stage | Organize independent planning and choice of information search | Drawing up an algorithm for preparing fabric for cutting | Suggests compiling an algorithm and comparing it with the right option | Children create an algorithm and compare it with the correct option | Regulatory UUD; Plan, draw up an action plan taking into account the final result. |
|
| Search and research stage | Encourage students to independently search for solutions to problems and construct new knowledge. | Presentation | individual frontal | Invites students to choose the model they like, sketch it and give reasons for their choice | choose a model and justify their choice. | Cognitive UUD; Extract the necessary information from the presentation. Communicative UUD: Enter into dialogue, express your thoughts with sufficient completeness and accuracy. |
| Practical stage | Ensure the application of acquired knowledge to achieve the final result. | Story practical work. | steam room, frontal | Conducts safety training. The teacher distributes reminder cards indicating the sequence of cutting the product Monitors student activities. | Listen and answer questions. Independently perform actions according to the algorithm | Subject UD: Take specific actions. |
| Reflective-evaluative stage | Provide understanding of the process and result of the activity. | frontal | Asks reflective questions. | Assess the degree to which their goal has been achieved; | Regulatory UUD: Evaluate the degree to which the goal has been achieved. Personal UUD: Express your thoughts. |
Cutting is one of the most important processes in tailoring, from its correct execution Much depends, and above all, the quality of the sewn product. It is divided into two stages: preparation for cutting and cutting itself.
Preparing fabric for cutting
TO preparatory work belong to:
- fabric decating;
- determining the front side of the material;
- fabric flooring;
- laying out product patterns on fabric;
- chalking of parts and seam allowances.
Consider each point of preparation for cutting in more detail.
Decatation
The simplest method of decating fabric consists of dampening the fabric; drying; easy ironing. Decate mainly natural fabrics, which can shrink when washed and ironed: cotton, linen, wool, silk. Synthetic fabrics It is enough to iron it from the wrong side with a slightly heated iron.
How to determine the front and back sides of fabric
Before laying out patterns on fabric, you need to determine its front side. For fabrics that have a pronounced pattern, it is easy to distinguish between the back and front sides - where the pattern is brighter, there is a face. But how can we determine the face and back of fabrics where the pattern is not expressed?
- Plain cotton (chintz, calico, etc.), some natural wool and silk fabrics, as well as artificial silk have predominantly plain weave threads and therefore the back and front sides of such fabrics are little distinguishable. The front side of such fabrics is determined by comparison - where the fabric looks better visually, the front side is there (no knots, threads, spools).
- For twill weave fabrics, the front side is determined by the rib - on the front side (if you look along the warp) it is located from bottom to top and from left to right.
- The front side of a satin weave is easily distinguished by its smoother surface compared to the back side.
Fabric flooring
After determining the right side of the fabric, proceed to laying the fabric. You can cut on any horizontal, flat surface. At home, this is usually a large table or floor. There are four main methods of laying fabric:
- Method No. 1 "Into the fold": The fabric is folded along the warp thread and folded so that the edges coincide. In this way, paired parts and parts with a fold are cut.
- Method No. 2 “In two layers”: The fabric is laid in two layers and two parts are cut out at once. Suitable for several identical parts, as well as mirror parts (shelves, etc.). These layout methods have the same pros and cons. The disadvantage of this layout: it is not an economical consumption of fabric. Plus: you can save time on cutting, because two parts are cut out at once.
- Method No. 3 “Fabric unfolded across the width”: This method is used for cutting single parts. The disadvantage of this layout: it is not time-efficient; you have to trace and cut each part separately with scissors. Plus: you can save fabric, there is little waste left with this arrangement of parts.
- Method 4 “Combined”: Combines all the methods described above. Disadvantage of this layout: none. The advantages are obvious: you can save fabric and time on cutting parts, and there is little waste left with this arrangement of parts.
Laying out patterns on fabric
- Cut out parts according to patterns or patterns. In this case, special attention is paid to the placement of patterns (patterns) on the fabric in relation to the warp and weft threads, pile, as well as in relation to stripes, checks and other patterns. The strips on the fabric must match exactly when cutting. The check pattern must match in paired (shelves, sleeves, pockets, etc.) panels of fabric relative to the transverse stripes and checks.
- When laying out the pattern on the fabric, you should take into account the direction of the pile, shade, pattern, etc. If the fabric pattern is directed in one direction, then the patterns are laid out so that the sprout, neckline, sleeve cap and upper part of the skirt are placed in the same direction.
- Patterns for parts of products made from velvet and corduroy are laid out against the direction of the pile (if you run your palm over the pile, it rises), and for all other fabrics - in the direction of the pile (if you run your palm over the pile, it lies smoothly) in order to maintain a smooth surface while wearing products.
- When cutting products made of brocade, taffeta, gabardine, it is necessary to determine the shades of the fabric. To do this, fold two pieces of fabric along a transverse thread and select the desired shade.
- When laying out patterns on striped or checkered fabric, you need to make sure that the stripes match in color and width at the side seams and in the middle of each piece. Moreover, the pattern details can be placed not only lengthwise, but also across or along the bias thread, depending on the style.
- On plain fabrics or on fabrics with an indefinite pattern, patterns can be laid out in different directions, taking into account the direction of the main thread in the details and the most economical use of fabric.
- First, lay out the main patterns of products (fronts, back, sleeves, front and back panels of the skirt) on the fabric, and then smaller ones (cuffs, collar, belt, etc.), using free place between large pieces, making sure that the direction of the grain thread on the pattern coincides with the warp thread on the fabric.
Seam allowances
The patterns are fixed on the fabric with pins and outlined with sharp chalk (pencil, soap, miracle chalk, etc.), taking into account seam allowances.
The default seam allowances for garments are as follows:
- for overcast seams, allowances are 1.0 cm;
- for stitching seams: shoulder seams - 1.0-1.5 cm, side seams - 1.5-2.5 cm, stitching seams for collars, sleeves, etc. 1.0-1.5 cm, stitching the top and bottom of the product – 2.0-3.0 cm;
- for hemming the bottom - from 1.0 to 5.0 cm, depending on the model and processing method.
When fitting a product to a figure (in the absence of an exact pattern), when cutting out parts in a checkered pattern, stripes, or with a clearly defined pattern, all allowances must be increased.
Cutting is done with sharp scissors along the second marked line (the parts are cut with seam allowances). All pattern lines are transferred to the mirror parts using snares, chalk or a copy cutter.
When laying materials, a number of technical conditions must be observed:
The fabric is cut into sheets by a team of two people on a separate table. Table length is at least 7 m, for main fabrics, width 1.60 cm. For lining fabrics, table length 7 m, width 1.20. Fabric cutting in production is done mechanically.
Specifications for cutting the product
When making products, cutters are guided by uniform methods of designing clothes, using basic patterns of leading models and structurally leading silhouettes. The patterns indicate the direction of the fabric, control marks and measurement locations of the main structural sections, which are adjusted when cutting individually, according to the customer’s standards.
When cutting wool fabrics, it is necessary to take into account the shrinkage ability of the fabric. Therefore, the fabric is pre-decated. The cutting of the main fabric for individual orders is always carried out for only one product. In this case, the fabric is folded in two folds, with the right sides inward, aligning the edges of the fabric. When sewing fabric with stripes, checks, or an asymmetrical pattern, where adjustment of the pattern is required, as well as when making products with one-piece sleeves and large asymmetrical parts, the pattern layout is performed in an unfolded form.
The following types of work are performed in the cutting shop:
