Almost all of us have a magpie inside us. We all love jewelry, and sometimes the desire to acquire something new leads to the fact that there is simply nowhere to store this new thing, since the old “storage” is already bursting so much that it not only does not close, but is already bursting at the seams. A simple solution - buying a new (additional or more spacious) box seemed simple only at first glance. As it turned out, I have a whole list of requirements for which, unfortunately or fortunately, none of the boxes offered in stores suited me. And so I decided to make it myself. And it must happen that just at this time one of my good friends purchased a set of knives in a box that exactly corresponded to my ideas about the future box!!! I don’t know what was written on my face, but when I asked to give me this precious box, they gave it to me! The fascinating story of the box does not end there... During the process of making it, I realized that I wanted to give it to a wonderful person who selflessly donated this box to me. Actually, that's what I did today!!! And the lack of a new box is a deterrent for me from spending exorbitantly on new trinkets and jewelry, which I am incredibly happy about! Thus began my struggle with my own magpie!
Sorry for the long introduction :)
So... Leather box and how I made it:
Materials and tools:
- cardboard box suitable size(you can use an existing one, or glue it yourself),
- leather scraps,
- 3 sheets of adhesive felt (or velvet paper)
- a piece of coarse sandpaper,
- glue,
- scissors,
- a piece of black velvet for interior decoration(can be replaced with velvet paper or felt),
- thin foam rubber (in my case, the form in which the knives lay).
So let's get started. To begin with, I took out the mold in which the knives lay (it turned out to be three-layer). Separated upper layer, cut it into suitable pieces and filled them (coating with glue) into the recesses in the remaining two layers of the mold.
WITH reverse side the shape was even and smooth. I drew it out and cut it into small pieces. Having drawn and cut the glue-based felt, I wrapped each block.
The box itself turned out to be glossy. In order for the leather smeared with glue to stick better, I wiped off all the gloss with sandpaper. Then, lubricating small areas of the box with glue, I applied pieces of leather to them, making wrinkles of the depth I needed. I glued all the pieces together with an overlap. Those edges that are on top are folded, those that are below are not.
The bottom of the box was covered with the same leather, but without wrinkles and folds.
I covered the inside of the box with a piece of velvet because I had incorrectly calculated the amount of felt (I simply didn’t have enough).
Small note!!!
If (when) I make the next box, I will use velvet paper instead of felt (felt is very stretchy, especially if it is a large piece, and it is difficult to glue it absolutely evenly).
Well, that's all. Here it is presented from different angles. The bars are simply inserted into the box, so their number can be adjusted at your discretion, and you can store in it not only rings and earrings, but also bracelets with chains and beads.
Here it is tested for its intended purpose by the treasures of my magpie :)
Was given without them;)
Thanks to everyone who stopped by.
I'm interested in your opinion about my work.
I hope someone finds it useful.
How to replace leather for decoration. Master class from fljuida.We use vinyl wallpaper to decorate the box.
Hello, dear readers:) This time, let's look at how you can use wallpaper that imitates the skin of an animal (probably a hippopotamus) to decorate the surface of an object. This method is good because it perfectly imitates skin, we save the lives of animals and work with them is done quickly enough. If you are lucky and can buy such wallpaper, then imagine how long it will last you, and the price is very affordable. For Riga residents - this wallpaper is sold at the Depot :) And here is the box, which I decorated using film, which I easily peeled off from the canvas itself.
Agree, it looks very much like genuine leather :) Since vinyl wallpaper has a film coating, you don’t have to varnish the product, and this is also a plus for decoupage work and speeds up :)
You can see the wallpaper itself in the picture, as well as what you will need mainly for decorating an ordinary wooden box. As you can see, the arsenal is completely simple :)
We cut the wallpaper to the required size and peel it off in one fell swoop, first picking up a corner with a needle.
The enlarged photo shows the texture of the skin very clearly. Lovely, and that’s all :)) I’m writing to you, but I’m thinking about where else I could use this wealth :))
This film is glued very easily onto PVA construction adhesive evenly spread over the surface of the box.
For the top cap, a larger size is cut than the cap itself requires. About that much.
Once again admire the texture itself :))
While the glue is not high, we begin to assemble the film, creating artistic folds. It is advisable not to make intersecting lines, but to create air movement.
Once you are satisfied with the movement of the folds, cut off the edges with nail scissors and additionally coat the film with PVA glue along the edges.
Don't worry if the edge is a little uneven. It won’t be visible anyway, since it will be covered by the edge of the side. This is exactly what we will now proceed to :) Cutting off the edging bigger size, taking into account the size of the bend.
We coat the bend with glue and glue it to the film itself. 
We glue this strip to the side of the box so that the top edge hangs over the edging. We properly glue this edge to the edge of the artistically twisted canvas.
All that remains is for you to further decorate the box to your taste. I made flowers from the same film using hot glue, which I glued to the top and side surfaces of the box.
You can leave it this way, but I wanted to additionally decorate the box with rhinestones. You will see them a little later, and in the next photo the insides of the box are decorated :))
Since the bottom of the box will be lined with pink fur, I painted the bottom and all the sides inside the box with a slightly different shade of pink. And through a stencil I applied the exact color of the fur so that it would be visible only in reflections. But that is not all:)
Above the box I placed film and Mordan glue, which I will use to apply golden touches. I often use this sweet couple for decoration :)
Outline the outline of the stencil with a muzzle.
In this photo you can already see how the Mordan glue applied with the contour dries a little (to the point of tack). And as soon as it dries slightly, I will put a film on top (the golden surface is on top, and the reverse side is towards the Mordan).
Oh, in this photo, which shows how I decorated the bottom part of the box, you can see how bald spots appear on the film after contact with the face :) It is reusable, so it will be enough for you to use it many times.
“Many people store photographs in familiar albums, but now special photo boxes have begun to come into fashion. They have many advantages: spaciousness, compactness, and the most pleasant thing is the feeling of a living photograph in your hands when viewing, not covered with film and without a base. You can easily make such a box with your own hands, and I will describe all the details of working with it below.
This master class will help you make a box covered with leatherette to store 150 photographs in a format of 10x15 cm. The base is 1.75 mm thick binding cardboard, and all the given sizes are suitable only for it. But you can easily convert the diagram to other formats, cover the box with fabric or paper, make it higher or lower.
To begin, we cut out the base of the box from binding cardboard:
To glue the frame together, I apply Korfix glue (similar to PVA) directly to the edge of the cardboard and glue the long sides on top of the base first.
Regarding glue and materials, I’ll immediately make a reservation: I always write which ones I use, but in no case do I insist on using them. You can try the means that are familiar to you, I think this is unlikely to have a significant effect on the result.
On the short walls we apply glue to 3 ribs and insert them between the long ones:
The frame is ready, but it does not hold very securely. Therefore, I glue each rib from the inside with strips of craft paper folded in half, cutting off its edges at 45 degrees.
Apply glue to craft strips...
And this is how we glue each joint.
It is not always possible to cut and glue cardboard so that the ribs are perfectly even. At this stage we can file the frame with a rough saw, smoothing out the places and joints that we don’t like.
Now you can start covering the frame with leatherette binding. Apply glue to one of the outer long walls of the box, starting approximately from its middle and grabbing a couple of centimeters after the corner.
We glue the leatherette (at this stage strips of 605x75 mm are enough) so that the distance above and below the box remains approximately equal.
When we glue it to the corner, we stretch the leatherette a little.
So we gradually glue the entire box around the perimeter.
As a result, there should be a small reserve at the junction.
It is necessary to cut the material so that in the upper part of the box it can then be neatly laid end-to-end. We are not interested in what happens at the back; we will seal this part anyway.
Now turn the box upside down and cut off the excess from the corners like this:
Ideally, the corners should also lie end to end so that there is no overlap. Next, glue the resulting valves one at a time:
For greater accuracy, I press the corners into place with a scoring bone. If you don’t have one, you can use here and below scissors, the base of a brush, or something else that will be convenient.
The bottom is ready:
On the reverse side, cutting off the corners is a little more difficult. They should be cut to about the thickness of the cardboard or a little further from the corner, but not so much that the cardboard itself is exposed. It’s better to cut them off in stages, try them on, and cut them again if necessary.
And also from the gap in the middle, we begin to seal the valves one by one inside the box.
The corners should lie like this:
And when I reach the joint on the back wall, I glue it also without overlap:
The base is ready, you can start working on the lid. The same binding cardboard is cut out for the lid. Dimensions are shown below. But because During the work process, everyone stretches the material differently and glues the frames together, so there may be deviations. Therefore, you can try the lid on to your frame during the process.
For the lid we need a piece of leatherette measuring about 370x200 mm. We glue our cardboard onto it from the wrong side in the order shown in the diagram above. On each of the 4 sides we leave approximately equal distance from the edge to the fold. I apply glue to the entire surface of the cardboard in an even layer.
Afterwards I also cut off the excess around the corners. Here the angle is cut at 45 degrees, and approximately its thickness is removed from the cardboard. I also advise you to act gradually and try on how well the material fits.
After we have glued the cardboard to the leatherette, we apply glue to long sides leatherette...
And glue each piece of it to the cardboard.
Using a scoring bone, I “drive the leatherette into the holes between the cardboards:
These are the “streamlets” you should get:
To achieve accuracy in forming the corners, we glue the small metric we have at the very tip of the corner, also on the opposite side:
Then we seal the valve itself. On the other side we do the same.
The lid is ready, that's all the “dirty” :) the work with glue is finished.
Now you need to install magnets in the box so that the lid slams shut happily. For them, we make a hole in the cardboard from the inside of the box, but do not cut through all the cardboard, but only remove its layer. It is advisable to remove it so that the magnet “sinks” well into the hole and does not protrude. I used magnets about 1.5 mm thick and 12 mm in diameter. The place where exactly the magnets will be placed is not important, because... they won't be visible. The main thing is to place them on the front side of the box, where there is no seam.
I glue the magnets themselves with superglue.
Now that there are already magnets inside, I magnetized the remaining couple to them from the outside. This is done in order to accurately mark the place where to poke holes in the lid for them.
I colored them with an easy-to-wash marker...
And she closed the future box with a lid. The mark from the marker moved onto the lid, showing us exactly where there should be more magnets.
Using these marks, I made the same holes and glued magnets there, paying attention to their polarity: so that the lid would be attracted to the box when closing, and not repelled.
Now we will tape the inside of the box beautiful paper. I use scrapbooking paper. The diagram below shows the parts that need to be cut out for gluing. There may be discrepancies in sizes of a millimeter or two, so it is better to try on before gluing. Solid lines indicate cut points, dotted lines indicate fold points.
First of all, we glue the walls of the box; 4 parts with folds are used for them.
This diagram will be useful for thrifty craftswomen :) Here we show how to cut out all the parts for a photo box from one sheet of scrap paper 30.5x30.5 cm.
Before gluing, I tint the white sections of the paper:
First we glue the long walls, which have 3 valves:
Here I use UHU Twist&Glue glue. Does not lead to paper, transparent and convenient. But there is a minus - if you mess with leatherette, you can’t erase it, so it’s better to try to work very carefully.
Then I glued the short walls; they already have only one flap at the bottom. And I used a hot glue gun to glue a tape that makes it easy to pull out the stack of photos. I glued it, placing the box with the front part facing me, on the left side. When the photos are placed on it, the loop for pulling them out will be on the right.
And you can glue a small loop to the front of the lid so that the box can be opened easily.
After this you can glue the bottom.
It's time to decorate the lid. I used a stamp and Stazon ink, they do not wash off from leatherette and smooth surfaces.
Now all that remains is to cover the inside of the lid with paper. While without glue, I use a scoring stick to mark the contours on the paper so that in places where we have “rivulets” between the cardboards, it will fit right into them.
This is the form the marked paper takes:
Next, we do the same with the glue applied to the paper: glue a part, use a stick to push the paper into the stream, glue the next part, push it into the stream again, and glue the remaining valve. This is how she should lie:
Now the lid will open and close with a bang, and generally bend in all directions.
Now we apply glue to the bottom of the box and glue it to the largest part of the lid. We should still have an indent from the edge. Ideally, it turns out to be equal to the thickness of cardboard covered with leatherette, but you can measure your indentation just in case.
Apply glue to back wall boxes...
And close the product. I also glued one of my favorite giant rhinestones on top. For ease of use, it is better to glue voluminous decorations at the very end.
DIY box. Master class with step by step photos.
Box made using imitation reptile skin technique. Master class with step-by-step photos.
Goloveshkina Lidiya Mikhailovna technology teacher MBOUSecondary school No. 8 named after A.N. Bliznyukov Beysug village, Vyselkovsky district, Krasnodar region
Description: This master class is intended for children from 10 years old, teachers, parents, as well as for all creative people.
Purpose: The box, made using the technique of imitation reptile skin, can serve as an interior decoration, for exhibitions and participation in competitions, as well as as a gift.
Target: Complete the box.
Tasks:
- Arouse interest in this type of creativity;
- develop diligence, accuracy, perseverance, patience;
- develop aesthetic perception of the surrounding world, observation skills;
- develop fine motor skills hands, eye, fantasy, imagination.
Preface to the work:
Snakes are one of the most peculiar creatures on earth. Their unusual appearance original way movements, many remarkable behavioral features, and finally, the poisonousness of many species - all this has long attracted attention and aroused keen interest among people. The study of snakes gradually reveals new remarkable features in the structure and lifestyle of these animals.
At first glance, it seems that snakes are easy to distinguish by appearance from all other reptiles. Indeed, they have a long, legless body, covered with scales, their eyes are always covered with a transparent leathery membrane, and they lack an external ear. However, all these structural features can also be found in various lizards.
About 30 signs of external and internal structure distinguish snakes from lizards, but almost all of them “as an exception” are also found in the latter. Thus, only by the complex of all these differences can one reliably divide two orders of reptiles—snakes and lizards.
The body of the snake is covered with horny shields and scales. On the head of many snakes, large shields of regular and constant shape are grouped into in strict order, typical for each species, and serve important sign for scientific description and identification of species.
The purpose of this topic is to try to revive interest in such wonderful and interesting animals as snakes. There are no people who would treat snakes with indifference. People either hate and fear them, or have truly warm feelings towards them.
There are 11 species of snakes in our country. Among them, 3 species belong to viper snakes and 8 to colubrids. All representatives of the viper family have poisonous glands and corresponding dental apparatus.
What to do if a snake bites you. Useful tips.
When bitten by a snake, it is important to limit your mobility: the faster you move, the higher the rate of absorption of the venom into the blood. The affected limb needs special rest: it should not be moved at all.
Immediately after the bite, you can try to suck out the poison from the wound. You should not be afraid of getting poisoned by swallowing a small particle of poison: poisoning through the esophagus requires a dose much larger than if you accidentally swallowed the residue in saliva. You can suck out the poison either yourself or by asking anyone nearby. It is important to remember that after 2-3 minutes the action becomes practically useless.
Give the victim plenty of fluids to reduce the concentration of poison in the blood and lymph. Water and warm sweet tea are fine, coffee and alcohol are not: the former changes blood pressure, increasing the rate of circulation of blood and poison, the latter is another poison that the liver has to neutralize.
Deliver the victim to the nearest hospital, where there is antidote serum, and the necessary care will be provided health care, including relieving allergic shock.
Many snake venoms can be used in small dosages for medical purposes. Along with their direct use as medicines, they contribute to the search for new ones. Poisons help explain many processes and better understand them, as well as find new active substances. Poisons are a prerequisite for lowering blood pressure from the ACE group of drugs. Snake venoms are used in the following areas of therapy: arterial hypertension(increased blood pressure), hereditary or acquired changes in the coagulation system and for the manufacture of antidotes (antidotes). In homeopathy for reversal of pain conditions.
Venom production occurs on snake farms by “milking” the venom glands. To do this, the teeth are placed on the membrane of the container and the poisonous glands are massaged. The venom that flows out is severely frozen, dried and crushed into granules.
Historically, poisonous snakes were also a fairly important part of medicine in Europe. Thus, various infusions and other prepared forms were used against all sorts of diseases and to achieve future beauty and so on.
The wisdom of the snake allows a person to make thoughtful and informed decisions, its endurance allows him to be persistent, tenacious, physically and mentally strong.
The snake is resourceful and gives the ability to find ways out even from the most difficult situations. The coldness and composure of the reptile will allow, when necessary, to moderate ardor and maintain sanity in any “hot” life situations.
We already know what the first people looked like on Earth. Now scientists have revealed what the first snakes looked like.
The ancestors of all modern snakes had tiny hind limbs with full ankles and toes. They were predators and set up ambushes at night... The first snakes are described in the Navy journals Evolutionary Biology. The research was carried out by an international team of scientists. Scientists analyzed the fossil remains, genes and anatomical structure of 73 species of snakes and lizards. Biologists have concluded that the first snakes appeared on land apparently in the warm forests of the southern hemisphere 128 million years ago (Early Cretaceous).
At the dawn of their evolution, snakes hunted soft-bodied animals that were significantly larger than them. But snakes did not yet know how to strangle prey with their coils. Next to the remains of extinct snakes (as found in 1987), fossilized remains of shells are found - this is evidence that snakes ate eggs and baby dinosaurs. The first snakes were active at first. But in the Cenozoic (about 45-50 million years ago), ancient snakes began to crawl out to hunt during the day. It is assumed that it was the cold at night that forced the snakes - Colubroidea - to which more than 85% of modern species belong.
Exoticism has always attracted people. For some it was an unknown fruit, for another it was an unprecedented country, for a third it was hitherto unheard sounds of nature... Nature... Our nurse and drinker, our teacher. She accompanies us everywhere from our first breath to our last. Even when we are no longer there, she continues to take care of us. But do we pay her the same attention and care? Are we trying to preserve it for our descendants? Unfortunately, this is far from the case. We have already destroyed a huge amount of its wealth, and many of them are already irreplaceable. Submitting to our whim to have an exotic thing or object, we often do not think how many specimens of plants or animals used as material remain on Earth...
Why are bags, shoes, shoes, boots made of leather and reptile skin so popular? Where does a person get this desire to make many practical things from the skin of reptiles? And why do many people dream of buying reptile skin to make unique accessories out of it? It's very simple: reptile skin has a number of qualities that no other animal on our planet has. Therefore, it is not surprising that the skin of these animals is in demand and popularity. They even produce tiles, laminate, wallpaper, and leather goods.
How to make an exotic item, not only without harming nature, but also somehow preserving it? There is only one answer: imitate this or that surface available means. This is already being done on a production scale with furs, pillows and furniture... But can this be done at home? Can! And today we will try to make imitation reptile skin.
For our work we need the following materials and equipment:
1. item to be processed (box, box, etc.);
2. mesh;
3. putty;
4. PVA glue;
5. paints (acrylic or gouache);
6. colorless varnish;
7. self-adhesive film;
8. brushes;
9. spatula;
10. scissors;
11. fine sandpaper.
Safety precautions when working with scissors
1. Store the scissors in the specified place and position.
2. When working, carefully monitor the cutting direction.
3. Do not work with dull scissors or loose hinge joints.
4. Do not hold scissors with the blade facing up.
5. Do not leave scissors with open blades.
6. Don't cut with scissors as you go.
7. Do not approach your friend while working.
8. Pass the closed scissors rings forward.
9. While working, hold the material with your left hand so that your fingers are away from the blade.
Safety precautions when working with glue
1. Handle the glue with care. Glue is poisonous!
2. Apply glue to the surface of the product only with a brush.
3. Do not let glue get on your fingers, face, especially eyes.
4. If glue gets into your eyes, rinse them immediately large quantities water.
5. After finishing work, be sure to wash your hands and arms.
6. When working with glue, use a napkin.
Sequence of work:
1.The item to be processed may be different (wooden, paper box). For my work I chose a cardboard packaging box.
The inside can be glued different ways(velvet paper, fabric, self-adhesive film or paper). I liked working with self-adhesive film more, as it is convenient to use. The color I chose was pink, which goes with gray. Glue it so that the edges of the box are covered.
2.The outside of the box must be covered with paper to level the surface. To do this, apply PVA glue to all sides one by one and apply small pieces of paper with glue to the surface of the future box (for this I chose toilet paper, rough). Let dry.
3. Let's move on to creating the texture of the reptile. I started working from the bottom of the box. I stretched a mesh onto the surface (you can stretch it so that the pattern fits differently), fix it in this position. After this, we apply putty, covering the folds. The layer should be even and overlap the mesh pattern. After a minute, carefully remove the mesh from the surface.
This is what happened. If you don’t like it, you can repeat it after drying. All roughness can be removed by sanding with fine sandpaper.
Treat all sides of the surface in this way. Before processing the lid, I advise you to place any paper for protection.
The texture similar to snake skin is ready.
4. In nature, the pattern of a snake can be very different. Therefore, there are no limits to fantasy. I had acrylic paints on hand in grey, white and black. That’s why I chose a drawing of a common viper.
If you are an artist, you can color each cell, getting closer to the original drawing. I don't have such abilities. Therefore, I applied approximate black spots of the future “skin” with a simple pencil.
Painted the designated areas black acrylic paint. The main background was painted over with gray paint.
5.Around black spots I applied white paint like an edging. Since reptile skin has blurry patterns, take a brush with black paint on the tip and blend it over the entire surface.
Finally, we coat all sides of the box with colorless varnish.
6.When the box was ready, I wanted to decorate it. And the idea came to mind to add to the box. Glue on the snake and rhinestones. I had rhinestones, but I decided to make the snake myself. You can sculpt from salt dough, but products made from it take a long time to dry. That's why I chose cold porcelain. You can buy it, or you can make it yourself. There are many recipes on how to prepare it. I settled on cooking without heat treatment. Necessary:
1 part corn starch;
1 teaspoon Vaseline; Grind until smooth and add 1 part of PVA glue. Mix all this until a lump appears and then knead in your hands (you can grease your hands with Vaseline) until the dough becomes elastic.
I made it from an old wooden box, made the lid out of cardboard and covered everything genuine leather. The result was a beautiful leather chest.
To work you will need:
Wooden box or cardboard.
Leather natural or artificial.
Chain.
Corrugated paper.
Acrylic paint bronze and black.
PVA glue.
Glue moment.
Bronze jewelry.
Chest manufacturing method with photo:
This is the box I made my chest from (it was an old wooden box). If you don’t have one, you can glue the box together from corrugated cardboard.
We cut out rounded sides of the size you need from thick cardboard. On the back side of the box, we measure on cardboard the size for the future lid, adjust the size based on the sides (I used cardboard from a school textbook, it bends very well and is quite durable). Leave the top of the lid wider and cut the sides into triangles, as shown in the photo.
We're making wooden legs for our chest. We cut them out of wood.
We glue the moment with glue or nail it to the bottom of the box.
Glue the lid with glue.
We bend it so that it then opens well.
This is how it is glued on the sides.
Cover the inside with PVA glue with corrugated paper. If you don’t have one, you can cover it with regular napkins and paint it with acrylic paint.
We glue the top of the chest with leather using glue.
Then we cut out thin strips from the leather and tape all the seams.
Dip a sponge into bronze paint and apply strokes to the skin.
We paint the legs with black paint. We glue bronze decorations to the sides. We glue leather strips on the front (I have strips Brown) with bronze buttons. I already had these strips ready from my old belt. We glue some kind of bronze decoration onto the lid, maybe a lock or something else. We tighten the chain twice around the bottom and fasten it tightly so it won’t fall off.
The DIY chest is ready. Good luck to everyone in their creativity!
