Leather for footwear. Is it genuine leather or not? Yuft (Yuft) Material yuft what

The PAT company continues to talk about the intricacies of shoemaking. And this time we will talk about the leather used in the production of safety shoes. It would seem that genuine leather is such a familiar material that nothing new can be learned about it. But we will try to reveal some secrets to you.

The modern world is faced with a shortage of genuine leather for shoes. The fact is that the number of animals specially bred for production is becoming smaller in relation to the number of shoes produced. This trend is due to the increased global need for leather clothing and, in particular, shoes, the reduction of pastures for livestock, an increase in the population of the earth, etc. That is why manufacturers began to resort to some tricks that help meet the high demand for leather shoes. Since safety shoes, and especially those sold in Russia, belong to the category of inexpensive economy class products, then, as a rule, all manufacturers try to use fairly cheap leather, while continuing to indicate that it is of high quality.

Types of shoe leather

In the production of special footwear, cattle leather is used: cow leather or buffalo leather (buffalo), as a rule, from India and Pakistan. Buffalo leather is more common. It is in itself cheaper than cowhide leather (cow), has a greater thickness, which can be cut into a greater number of layers - splits, each of which can be used in various areas of shoe production. Thus, the leather for the uppers of shoes, which is used in the production of safety shoes, is divided into three main types:

• leather with a natural front surface (front leather / leather goods);
• sanded leather (skin with polishing);
• shoe splits (coated genuine leather).

Skin with natural grain

This is the uppermost layer of the skin, which has the best characteristics compared to the lower layers: high elasticity, resistance and strength, durability. The skin from the top layer of the skin is better breathable and does not let water through due to the presence of animal fat in its composition. However, in the mass production of special footwear, this type of leather is rarely used due to its high cost. Manufacturers solved this problem by sawing (sanding) thick leather (about 1.5 cm) into layers. This is how splits appeared.

Leather with a natural grain surface is divided into two main types depending on the method of tanning:

• chrome leather;
• yuft.

Chrome leathers

Chrome leathers are soft leathers tanned with basic chromium salts - chromium-potassium and chromium-sodium alum and chromium peak. Tanning is carried out in special rotating drums for 8-12 hours using a specially developed technology. The skin of this finish becomes soft and supple.

This method of finishing provides the skin of the legs with normal perspiration, breathing and optimal temperature. Its features: it has increased thickness and elasticity (which improves the resistance of the upper to repeated bending), resistance to impact and abrasion, water, dirt and dust.

With all the merit this method is quite expensive and therefore chrome-tanned leather is rarely used in the production of safety shoes. Chrome leathers with a natural grain surface can be both smooth and incl. with a pattern (meria) and velvety (with pile), like nubuck.

Nubuck

Nubuck is a specially treated leather that goes through a chrome tanning process. It has a weak pile on the front surface, which gives the skin a good appearance - it becomes velvety. Genuine leather nubuck has good breathability and is poorly wetted by water, has a waterproof effect. The disadvantages of this skin include the need to care for products. Nubuck is a high-quality material, therefore it is used only in the production of high-class shoes.

• Beige work boots with metal toe "Hummer"
• Brown work boots with metal toe "Hummer"

Yuft leather

Skin gets rid of titelny tannins. Yuft leathers are thick, soft leathers with a high fat content (26-30%), waterproof. Unlike chrome leather, they have a high content of fatty substances, as well as water resistance and wear resistance, but are less elastic. To give these qualities, the skin is treated by long-term gilding and abundant fatliquoring (the fat content in yuft is up to 25% of the skin mass). This method is less expensive compared to chrome tanning, so it is more often used by manufacturers of safety shoes. Sometimes yuft tanning is combined with chrome treatment.

New working boots with an adjustable drawstring, made of grain yuft leather, polyurethane/thermopolyurethane soles, with a composite toe cap reinforced with Kevlar threads, a Kevlar anti-puncture insole, CAMBRELLE lining PA081b, and natural fur lining PA081b G. FUR:

Sanded leather

The animal, even during its lifetime, could damage the skin or have other skin defects in case of illness. Also, animal skins can be damaged during their removal from the carcass, transportation or storage. In this case, the manufacturers grind the damaged areas, but the front layer in these areas is also destroyed (damaged). Sometimes animal skins are in such a state that the entire surface has to be sanded. In this case, the quality of buffed leather is very similar to split leather.

splits

Leather split or leather split is a layer of leather that is obtained using special equipment. The skin is stratified into several layers, sometimes up to 5-6. There are split front, middle and mezdrovy (or Bahtormy).

When stratification occurs, a violation of the structure of the skin, so the splits receive a number of disadvantages. They are loose, heavy, and since the fibers remain in the upper layer, the split does not stretch well and does not restore its shape after deformation. Like upper layer leather, split leather allows air to pass through, but quickly absorbs and accumulates water vapor, less waterproof, as a rule, dries worse. Shoe splits are less elastic, strong and durable. The artificial coating of split leather can crack or completely lag behind the leather base.

To restore the properties of split leather and expand its scope, namely, in the shoe industry, it is embossed with a hot press with various additives or impregnations, creating on one of the sides 100% artificial surface to make it look like leather. There are many different technologies for applying artificial surfacing to split wood. As a result, it is almost impossible to distinguish split leather from leather in the finished product. Once chemically treated, split leather is sometimes referred to as "faux-faced" or coated leather.

With a certain processing, the split can be coated on one side. Often they are treated with polyurethane application: coating split wood with a film based on microporous polyurethane. The process of applying foamed PVC or polyurethane films to a split consists of coating the split with an adhesive (usually applied on a roller machine), then the split is fed to the film and fixed by pressing. Sometimes liquid polyurethane is sprayed onto the skin, which makes it possible to obtain splits with excellent appearance and physical and mechanical characteristics, but at a higher price.

Thermoplastic, polyurethane and PVC films create a dense surface with good performance. However, the performance characteristics are significantly different from genuine leather with a natural “face”, so this technology allows the production of only inexpensive split leather articles.

Another simple technological solution is split wood trim with acrylic resins. The finish is applied by watering machine or by spraying. After applying one or two primer layers by cutting (pressing), the effect of the front surface is created. Finally, the surface is varnished. The advantage of this finishing method is its economy. Application of acrylic resins does not require special equipment; standard machines available to tanneries can be used.

Sometimes combined mixtures of polyurethane, acrylic and other substances are used.

THE PRINCIPLE OF WORK OF OUR ORGANIZATION "RAT" IS TO ALWAYS COMPLETELY AND RELIABLY INFORM CLIENTS ABOUT THE MATERIALS AND TECHNOLOGIES THAT WERE APPLIED IN THE PRODUCTION OF SHOES AND ALL RISKS THAT MAY ARISE DURING THE OPERATION OF SPECIAL FOOTWEAR.

FOOTWEAR FROM THE FIRM "RAT" HAS ALL THE NECESSARY CERTIFICATES AND WARRANTY. BUYING SPECIAL FOOTWEAR FROM US, YOU ARE GUARANTEED TO RECEIVE A HIGH-QUALITY PRODUCT FROM PROFESSIONALS WITH THE BEST PRICE/QUALITY RATIO!

The company "RAT" with due attention monitors the quality of the production of its safety shoes. Including the materials from which the goods are made. Leather is the basis of safety shoes, so control over the proper protective and comfortable characteristics is carried out at the very high level. The company "RAT" uses only high-quality split wood, processed using the latest technologies, which allows us to maintain its high positive characteristics without reducing the quality of products.

The RAT company offers wholesale safety shoes made of high-quality coated genuine leather and with delivery to any corner of Russia and the world:

• Work boots with black metal toe "Hummer" on rubber soles;

There is another type of leather - pressed or restored. It is made of a material produced under pressure from natural leather production waste: scraps and patches, chrome shavings, leather dust and other waste. The dispersed particles are crushed into a fine powder, which is mixed with synthetic materials acting as binding fibers. The production is completed by filling with a paste, which fixes the resulting material. Next comes the stage of drying and coating with polyurethane, acrylic or other substance.

It is quite clear that this is done to save raw materials and reduce the cost of products. It is one thing - a product from a single piece of leather, and quite another - from shredded leather waste. At the same time, "pressed leather" has all the properties of synthetic leather. This is a non-woven base on which a layer is applied that imitates the front surface of the skin. This skin does not breathe well, does not allow moisture and air to pass through. In addition, it is not wear-resistant and brittle. The material is made as similar as possible to genuine leather, it is difficult to determine it “by eye”. RAT company never used similar tricks in the production of all kinds of their shoes. All safety footwear produced only from high-quality materials is the main rule of the company.

One of the many examples of the use of this rule: for food, medical, chemical and electronic industries with a metal carrier made using artificial leather "Microfiber". This is a stylish, high-quality and durable material; Waterproof leather is wear-resistant, does not absorb water and dirt, and is easy to apply and maintain. Made from silicone and polyurethane. Microfiber leather is only used for some safety shoes. This material is unfriendly to the growth of microorganisms and is suitable for frequent washes in washing machine. Thanks to all these qualities, sandals are very much appreciated by our customers throughout Russia.

Mankind has been using natural leather since ancient times. Depending on its manufacture, the following types are distinguished:

• raw;
• rawhide;
• tanned.

To date, the most common is tanned leather. There are several tanning methods. It is applied as one separate method, and combined. In addition, in GOST there is a division of genuine leather into hard and soft.

Material characteristics

Yuft is genuine leather made by combined tanning. The raw materials for it are the skins of cows, bulls, horses, pigs. Yuft refers to soft skins.

The properties of the material depend on the type and quality of the raw material, as well as the way it is processed. If the raw material is the skin of cows and bulls, then the dressed skin is called cowhide. The material is taken from the belly of nulliparous cows and one-year-old bulls.

Yuft made from the skin of pigs is less durable compared to cowhide and horse. Therefore, the standards for pigskin are softer.

Material Features

Yuft was called "Russian leather". In the 19th century, it was valuable abroad because it was the only tanned leather that was treated with a mixture of birch tar and seal oil. As a result, insects could not damage it, it did not mold. For the production of yuft, abundant greasing is used, so that the mass fraction of fat in it reaches 25% of the total mass.

In Russia, there is a state standard that spells out all the characteristics that yuft must comply with.

Of all natural materials, yuft has no equal in thickness. There is an opinion that if clothes from this skin touch a nail, then the nail will fly out sooner than the clothes will tear.

Dressed leather yuft comes in various colors. The most popular is black.

According to their application, the following types of yuft are distinguished:

• shoe;
• sandal.

shoe type

Shoe type is most often used to create the upper part of shoes, boots, boots. natural material It has a very dense structure, so shoes from it are incredibly resistant to wear. But it is flexible enough a large number fat. All these characteristics make it possible to use this type to create shoes for all military and security structures. In the photo you can see soldiers' boots made of yuft - berets.

Also there is leather yuft from a combined material. The material consists of yuft and tarpaulin - an artificial substitute for pigskin. High-quality genuine leather is used to manufacture those elements that are most heavily loaded when walking, and the tops of boots and the top of boots are decorated with tarpaulin. Shoes made of combined material are more affordable.

Shoe look is used not only for army, but also for work shoes. Yuft boots are great for industry with difficult conditions. Their top is impregnated with a special compound that protects against oil, water and gasoline. The feet are equipped with a metal insert, and on the toe of the shoe there is a steel or thermoplastic overlay. In such boots in hot workshops, the feet will not sweat much.

Boots made of yuft are used by those who work a lot in difficult natural conditions: the properties of the leather are such that shoes from it do not get wet. This applies to exploration oil industry, assembly, construction and road works.

sandal type

The sandal type is very different from the shoe type. If for shoes they take the highest quality cowhide leather obtained from the skins of cows and bulls, then the sandal type is made mainly from pig and horse skin. This leather is thinner than shoe leather.

The front side is brought to glossiness by grinding, and all places with relief are removed. The sandal type is only suitable for dry conditions, as it repels moisture worse than shoes. This is due to the lower fat content in it (two times lower). But the sandal type is a breathable material, so the feet in such shoes are quite comfortable. The top of sandals is sewn from sandal material, which gave it its name. Clogs and multi-colored models of workers in medicine, lung, Food Industry, cleaning companies are often made just from sandal-type leather.

Characteristics of the material crust

The word "crust" is translated from English as "bark" or "crust". Crust is distinguished by amazing strength and elasticity. To obtain similar properties, raw materials are soaked in water and treated with wood smoke. Then it is subjected to a gilding procedure, as a result of which the wool is removed.

Crust is characterized by the use of drum dyeing. The front side of the skin is not processed. The natural pattern is preserved, and the crust acquires water-repellent properties. Therefore, the material is perfect for creating demi-season and winter shoes.

Crust is often called haberdashery leather. It is not only strong and durable, but also malleable. Crust is easily processed, so it has found wide application.

Made from this material:

• furniture;
• women's and men's bags;
• shoes (the uppers of the shoes are mainly made from crust; after the hydrophobic treatment, the shoes become especially strong);
• stationery and office items (diaries, business card holders, etc.);
• hunting and combat equipment (holsters, game-bags, etc.);
• riding equipment (saddles, harnesses, etc.).

Crust leather and yuft are natural raw materials that are particularly durable. They are perfect for the manufacture of safety shoes, army and work models.

Boots- unlike boots, they do not have a front cut in the upper part. Depending on the materials from which they were made, boots were divided into leather, rubber and felted.

Fishing boot (model of the Taganrog factory. 1952)

Fisherman's boot made of black cowhide yuft. The sole is leather. Wood-stud fastening.

Leather boots are the most diverse group in terms of the materials used, designs and methods of fastening the bottom. According to the material of the top, they were divided into yuft, chrome, textile, combined and felt.

Yuft boots were produced both for household and industrial use, the rest were for household use only.. Yuft boots were designed for the harsh conditions of everyday wear; used in conditions of high soil moisture. They are made from materials of increased thickness, density, strength and water resistance and are distinguished by high resistance, increased water resistance of seams and fasteners, and increased dimensions. The main types of yuft boots are exhaust and covering.

Exhaust yuft boots were the development of ancient Russian footwear; the front and the top made up one large part (hood), which, in the process of production, was planted in the front area (received a three-dimensional shape), re-edged and trimmed. The draft boots blanks were sewn only along the back line and did not have a seam fastening the front to the top, which contributed to their water resistance. In the past, the bulk of yuft boots were made exhaust. However, cutting out a very large detail of a complex configuration with its subsequent cutting led to a useful use of the skin only by 60-62%, which is approximately 20% less than normal. Exhaust boots were produced on special orders and only for industrial purposes (the so-called fishing and marsh boots), in which, for greater stability, the tops were sometimes lengthened, ending in a bell, and a bull bladder was laid between the top and the sub-dress in the front area (see).

Cover-up boots made up the bulk of both yuft boots and boots with uppers made of other materials. The design of one of the most common types of yuft boots with a leather top is shown in the figure below, highlighting the main details. The list of parts indicating their quantity and the material used for their manufacture is given in the table.

Yuft boots

Yuft boots: 1 - before; 2 - shaft; 3 - seam; 4 - backtack; 5 - filing; 6 - suborder; 7 - ears; 8 - sole; 9 - outsole; 10 - heel; 11 - heel; 12 - insole; 13 — back (soft layer); 14 — back (hard layer); 15 - lining; 16 - calf

Details of yuft boots with leather tops

Men's boot made of black yuft. The sole is leather. Screw fastening.

Yuft-covered boots were produced with tops stitched on the front, or with fronts stitched on the tops; without zadinok and with detachable zadinki; with rear outer straps, rear outer straps and stitching, rear inner straps and stitching. The tops were made of leather and leather substitutes (kirza, shargolin). Leather boots were with leather sub-outfit and lining, with leather sub-outfit and through futor, with leather sub-outfit and lining made of textile materials, with textile sub-outfit and through futor. Shafts made of leather substitutes were with a leather sub-outfit and with a textile sub-outfit. Yuft-covered boots were made mainly with a soft toe, that is, without toe caps; only a small part with leather tops had rigid toe caps cut from granitol or leather.

According to the design of the bottom, yuft boots were with soles: made of leather with leather lining; made of plastic leather with leather lining or backing; from non-porous or porous rubber with or without lining, backing (using the hot vulcanization method); in leather with an outer sole in plastic leather, leather or rubber, or with an inner sole in leather. Bottom fastening methods: nail, screw, wood-stud with screwing (see).

The details characteristic of the tailor-made yuft boots were: the front, the tops, the rear outer belt, the seam, the bartack, the back, the hemming, the rear inner belt, the subdress, the outsole, the back.

If the lining captured the entire area of ​​the leather top, then it was called a futor, and boots - boots with a soft through futor. Futor was only leather.

Sometimes in boots with a leather top with a lining, a rear inner strap was used, which ran from the back to the edge of the lining and was sewn with a hidden seam; increased the water resistance of the back seam, strengthened it, provided great convenience for putting on the boot and protected the leg from rubbing with the back seam when walking.

In order to increase the resistance to abrasion of the bottom of the shoe, the leather bottom of the yuft boots was often reinforced with metal reinforcement (jambs, staples, horseshoes, etc.).

The material for the outer parts of the top of yuft boots was cowhide and horse yuft of black and natural color, meeting the requirements of GOST 485-52, partially split wood for the top of shoes produced in accordance with GOST 1838-42, tarpaulin and shargolin; for the inner details of the top, in addition, chrome lining leather (except for chrome sheepskin), which met the requirements of GOST 939-41, x.-b. fabrics for filing (GOST 7287-54) and semi-double threads (OST 30288-40). In boots with tops made of leather substitutes, the outer leather details of the top could be cut out with the face or bakhtarma outward; with split tops, only the fronts were allowed to be placed on bakhtarma. Soles for yuft boots, except for children, were cut out of leather and rubber; soles are made of leather, rubber and plastic leather. Leather had to meet the requirements of GOST 461-51, rubber and plastic leather - the requirements of TU. Children's boots were made only with leather soles.

Boy's boot (model of the X October factory, 1952)

Boy's boot. The vamp is made of black yuft, the tops are made of tarpaulin. The pad is rubber. Nail fastening.

By gender and age, yuft boots were divided into men's (Nos. 38-47), women's (Nos. 37-42), boys' and girls' (Nos. 35-37), school (Nos. 31-34) and children's (No. Nos. 27-30). Shoes for children were in two sizes; for adults - in three fullness of elevated rooms.

Women's boot (model of the X October factory, 1952)

Women's boot. The vamp is made of black yuft, the tops are made of tarpaulin. The pad is rubber. Nail fastening.

Chrome boots- more elegant, designed for use in best conditions. Chrome boots were produced in the form of fitted boots with set-in fronts, with tops made of leather or substitutes (lint and textile). The first were made with a leather sub-dress and a soft see-through futor, with stitching, a hard toe, with a top made of full grain or embossed leather and a chevro; V a small amount manually, in the order of individual tailoring, men were also produced with a hard futor, in which leather tops were stretched over a three-dimensional frame, cut out of hard leather of a semi-valve type; the second - with a leather or textile sub-dress and a through textile futor, with fronts and cut-off backs made of grain, embossed and pigskin, with a hard toe and stitching.

The material for the outer parts of the top of chrome boots was chrome-tanned leather - calf, outgrowth, half-skin, chevro, goat, horse and pig skin of black or Brown, which met the requirements of GOST 939-41, as well as (for the tops) polished pile and textovinite, which met the requirements of TU. According to the materials of the lining and details of the bottom, chrome boots did not differ from yuft boots. According to the design of the bottom, they were with a sole made of leather with a leather lining or backing, made of leather with a leather welt, made of non-porous or porous rubber. The methods of fastening the bottom of chrome boots are welted, screw, wood-stud, hot vulcanization. By gender and age, they were divided into men's (Nos. 38-47), women's (Nos. 34-42), boys' (Nos. 35-37) and school (Nos. 31-34). Men's weights were 8, 9, and 10; women's and boys' weights were 7, 8, and 9.

Men's boot (model of the Spartak factory, 1952)

Yuft and chrome boots were produced in small quantities with fur, with a solid lining, cut from natural fur of mestizo sheepskin of the second group (with yuft top) or dyed sheepskin (with chrome top). For a better hold on the leg, yuft boots with fur were made with a narrow circular belt with a buckle in the upper part of the top; were developed on a leather sole with a screw method of fastening the bottom, on a non-porous rubber sole with a leather backing - with a nail method. Chrome boots with fur in the upper part of the tops usually had a short longitudinal slit with a valve and side lacing, they were produced on a double leather sole with a welt fastening method. Boots with fur were used mostly in low temperatures.

Textile boots designed to be worn in dry climates. They were made in the form of cut-out boots with set-in or tuning fronts. Top details were cut out of fabrics. Black, brown, gray and protective colors were produced. Lining pieces consisted of a textile futor and sub-garment and a leather back inner strap; boots were made for the most part with a slit, blocks for lacing and valves in the upper part of the tops on the outside or along the back seam; the incision had a length of 9-10 cm, five blocks were placed on each side, fixed with sub-blocks. In boots that did not have a cut, it was mandatory to use cotton lugs. braids wide. 32 mm. In terms of bottom details, textile boots did not differ from chrome ones, except that, along with ordinary backs, they could be produced with a three-layer granite back, placed in a tuning pocket made of hard leather. They could have a sole made of leather, plastic leather, porous rubber (with the welt method) and rubber (with the hot vulcanization method). Fastening methods: screw, welt and hot vulcanization. Materials for the manufacture of textile boots: duplicated and duplicated shoe fabrics, two-layer tarpaulin (TU 243-49) on the details of the top; shoe tent (OST 30293-40) - on the details of the top, sub-outfit and futor; teak twill and other fabrics of equal physical and mechanical properties - per footor; chrome leather - on the leather parts of the top and the rear inner belt (GOST 939-42); lining leather for shoes (GOST 940-41) - on the rear inner belt; leather for the bottom of shoes (GOST 1010-41 and 461-51), leather gatherings for the bottom of shoes (GOST 1903-54), as well as plastic leather and rubber for the bottom of boots.

Boots combined differed from textile ones by the presence of leather backs and leather curly vamps. The leather details of the top were cut out of chrome leather (GOST 939-41) - calf, outgrowth, semi-leather and horse fronts.

In accordance with VTU 1288-55, textile and combined boots were produced only for men (Nos. 38-47) in three widths (7, 8 and 9).

Felt boots used for wear in conditions of relatively low temperature. They were produced with a number of leather overlays, which protected the most worn areas of the top and bottom and contributed to an increase general term boots service. To improve the performance properties, the bottom was often hemmed with leather. The group of felt boots included: boots with tops made of dyed and unpainted felt with leather vamps and hem, with leather trim and upper piping, on leather, plastic-leather, rubber and felt soles, with low heels; boots with tops made of undyed (natural white) felt with elongated tops (hunting), with leather vamps and backs, with leather soles, with low leather heels (only for men); boots with uppers made of felt, Caucasian cloak or cloth with leather vamps and backs, with leather trim and upper edging, on leather, plastic leather and rubber soles; cloaks and stockings.

The main material for the manufacture of felt boots was felt; leather details of the top were cut out from certain areas chrome leathers that met the requirements of GOST 939-41. According to the materials of the bottom, felt boots did not differ from other types of chrome boots. According to gender and age, they were divided into men's (Nos. 26-32), women's (Nos. 23-26), children's school (Nos. 20-23), preschool (Nos. 13-19). The numbering corresponded to the length of the insole in centimeters.

Dimensions leather boots . Minimum dimensions the heights and widths of the tops of everyday leather boots were as follows (in mm): male - height 390, width at the bottom 170.5, at the top 191; female - height 345, width at the bottom 157.5, at the top 190; boys - height 350, width at the bottom 155, at the top 175; school - height 300, width at the bottom 138, at the top 158; children's - height 250, width at the bottom 121, at the top 141. The difference between adjacent numbers of yuft, chrome and textile boots is as follows (in mm): 5 in height, 2.5 in width of the tops (with the top folded in half and measured at the top in the widest place, at the bottom - at the level of the front neck). Size indicators for felt boots - see Felt shoes.

Rubber boots

Rubber boots: 1 - top and front rubber; 2 - sole; 3 - insole; 4 - heel; 5 - top lining; 6 - front lining; 7 - back; 8 - textile insole

Rubber boots according to their purpose, they were divided into household and industrial. Worn directly on the leg (over a sock, stocking or footcloth). Household were used in damp places or in rainy times; industrial - when working in water, with solutions of acids and alkalis, with gasoline and oil, in the mining and chemical industries, in agriculture, in forestry, when fishing. They were made by manual gluing of individual parts or by molding (see).

The figure above shows a boot made by the molding method, indicating eight details: textile - lining of the tops, lining of the front, heel and insole (sewn into a stocking); rubber - shaft with front, sole, insole and heel.

The main types, types and sizes of rubber boots are shown in the table below.

The main types, types and sizes of rubber boots

The main types, types and sizes of rubber boots (continued)

Boots article 150 (glued) - the most common type of rubber boots; suitable for various wearing conditions. The list of the most important parts of these boots and the rubber and textile materials used for their manufacture is in the table below.

Details of rubber boots article 150

Other article-styles of rubber boots differed from glued art. 150 by the number of parts and the caliber of the textile fabrics and calendered rubber used.

Men's boot (model of the factory named after Kirov, 1952)

Men's boot. The vamp is made of black yuft, the tops are made of tarpaulin. Nail fastening.

Mining boots art. 118-a, to strengthen the structure and increase resistance to mechanical damage, were equipped with additional reinforcement parts (front, side and rear), consisting of textile fabrics coated with a rubber mixture; had a low top made of smeared and rubber-coated textile fabric and a rubber compound sole.

Anti-acid and anti-alkali boots art. 11150 and 11114. Thicker calendered rubber of 1.85-2.05 mm caliber was used for the tops and fronts. For petrol-resistant boots, dibutyl phthalate was added to the rubber compound. For mining and tunneling boots, the bottom of the shoe had a reinforced solid sole 14-15 mm thick; on the lower part of the shaft there is an additional reinforcement - a figured semi-shaft, which eliminated cracks on the sides at the transition points of the head and back to the shaft and on the lower part of the shaft; figured back and figured head had an elongated tongue to prevent cracks during operation at the transition points of the head and back to the top; glued heel 11-12 mm high was not subject to pasting and had increased wear resistance; the top was duplicated with a lining on a calender, which significantly increased the strength of their adhesion, eliminated peeling and reduced the wear of the lining; instead of an external corrugated tape - a rubber one under the head, which made it difficult to peel it off the boot.

Men's boot (model of the X October factory, 1952)

Men's boot. The vamp is made of black yuft, the tops are made of tarpaulin. Nail fastening.

For the manufacture of fishing boots article 151 to them with the help of a rubber connecting tape, a rubber leg was molded on a lining of twill or knitted fabric; leg thickness with lining 1.4 ± 0.1 mm.

Insulated boots article 156 UV additionally consisted of two heat-insulating layers, an inner felt insole (8-12 mm thick), rubberized textile lining made of technical knitted fabric. The internal heat-insulating layers for the front and top consisted of a combination of a half-woolen fabric with a fleece (for the first layer) and a woolen overshoes (for the second layer). Sole with a grooved outsole and a heel with a thickness of at least 8 mm in the outsole and 20 mm in the heel; superimposed with a “blockage” along the entire lower part of the boot. The outer profile rand was butted against the sole, blocking the junction of the sole with the rubber upper.

Fans of exquisite shoes and perfumes know that yuft is surprisingly soft and at the same time durable genuine leather. What is it - expensive elite leather or material for casual shoes? First of all, a material made from cow, horse, pig and deer skins, processed with tannins and fats, world-famous for its strength, elasticity and moisture resistance, as well as its special aroma.

Yuft classification

The grades and properties of yuft are standardized by the standards in accordance with GOST 337-84 “Yuft for shoe uppers. Determination of the grade "and GOST 485-82" Yuft for the uppers of shoes. Specifications". According to GOST, yuft, depending on the availability of usable area, is classified as 1, 2, 3 or 4 grades. Useful area in percent is determined according to GOST 26343-84.

The raw materials are mainly pig and horse skins. The front surface is polished, uneven areas are removed. Leather for the uppers of shoes is characterized by a high fat content (up to 30%). This gives it elasticity, moisture resistance, but at the same time reduces its heat resistance.

In addition, yuft is distinguished by several characteristics.

By origin of raw materials:

• yalovochnaya - yuft from the skins of cattle;
• horse and pork - made from horse and pig skins.

According to the features of the tanning process:

• leather tanned with vegetable tanning agents with chromium salts;
• with the addition of synthetic tannins;
• the above components plus sulfite cellulose extract.

Thickness:

• thin - 1.5-1.8 mm;
• medium - over 1.8 to 2.2 mm;
• thick - over 2.2 to 3.0 mm.

By size (area), yuft is classified into three groups:

• small;
• average;
• large.

Special types of yuft leather

The special types of leather described have a narrow application. Heat-resistant with a content of fatty components of 8-10%, water-resistant, has high heat resistance, and a reduced content of fatty substances makes it easier to finish, with less softness and plasticity. This type is used for the outer parts of the uppers of shoes that are worn at elevated temperatures. Hot shop workers do not wear artificial leather, as it is easily deformed. Shoe leather, on the contrary, breathes, allowing sweat and moisture to evaporate.

Saddlery is a durable high quality leather with a semi-aniline coating. It is used for the production of harnesses, saddles and accessories.

History of Russian yuft

Animal hunting was an occupation among primitive people, so leatherwork is a very ancient craft. Leather was used to make clothes and shoes, vessels for liquid, and it was used to cover the dwellings. At all times, gloves, bags, bags, saddles were in great demand. And the manufacture of leather shoes has always been considered an art, the secrets of which have been mastered by a few shoemakers.

With the advent of tanning technologies in Rus', tailoring leather shoes took on new dimensions. There were large shoe companies. And for tailoring they began to use a special skin - yuft. What it is, the wealthy citizens of Europe were the first to know.

Secrets of the manufacture of yuft

The abundance of leather raw materials in Russia became the basis for the modernization of leather production using a unique technology. rye flour, soaking in a tanning solution using oak bark, larch, poplar, manual fat and lubrication with birch tar. As a result of this treatment, the skin became soft and elastic, and also received high moisture resistance. Documents from the time of Peter the Great indicate that the entire process of processing yuft lasted from 18 months to two years.

Traditionally, Russian tanners distinguished three types of leather - white, red and black, depending on the quality of the raw material and the method of final finishing.

For the first of them, the best raw materials were selected. Yuft boots, bags, belts, military ammunition were sewn from this material. Black yuft acquired its color from staining with iron salts. Shoes were sewn from it and household items were made.

Red yuft was smeared with a solution of alum and stained with mahogany. She was delivered to Europe, where they sewed from her Leather Products: purse, belts, gloves, accessories for riding.

It was under the name "Russian leather" that the unusually soft and wear-resistant red yuft became known. What it is, many experienced shoemakers knew, but not a single foreign manufacturer managed to find out the secret technology and get material of the same quality.

Yuft in the world of perfumery

Russian leather had a pleasant specific smell, which became one of the symbols of fashion and aristocracy. At the end of the XIX century. The yuft fragrance became a landmark perfume commissioned by Napoleon III himself. The famous perfume house Creed has created a perfume with notes of "Russian leather" - "Cuir de Russie". Since that moment, yuft has become a link between the practical world of luxury items and the exclusive ether that evokes feelings and memories.

Before the start of World War II, leading French and German perfume houses produced more than 30 fragrances with the smell of yuft.

Now every year there are new compositions based on the aroma of "Russian leather". Yuft in the world of perfumery has become synonymous with exquisite taste and elegance.

Application and features

The properties of the named material in the shoe industry are determined by the type of raw material, its quality and the method of finishing processing. Cowhide leather, which has high mechanical strength and water resistance, is considered to be of the highest quality.

Yuft is the main material in the shoe industry. Its dense structure guarantees wear resistance combined with elasticity and excellent appearance. It is used for tailoring model and uniform shoes.

Yuft boots

Such shoes do not get wet, so they are worn by oil workers, geologists, builders working in northern latitudes, industrial workers with difficult working conditions. Water-repellent impregnation protects the boots from getting wet, the metal insert protects the feet from damage when walking, the toe cap made of steel or thermoplastic protects against punctures.

In the army, fighters are equipped with yuft berets. Their difference from boots is that the ankle in such shoes is movably fixed, preventing sprain of the ligaments of the foot.

In a more affordable price category, there are boots and boots, the material for which is tarpaulin and yuft. What it is for soldiers undergoing long exhausting marches is clear to everyone.

Russian manufacturers

The range of yufti is quite wide. Modern master tanners combine it with current fashion trends. All models from it are comfortable to use.

One of the oldest tanneries in Russia - the Taganrog Tannery - produces shoe, belt, saddlery, technical leather, including yuft. Bogorodsk Chrome Leather Plant is an enterprise with many years of experience in the production of genuine leather and its finishing. And in the field of saddlery products, the company managed to become one of the best. Russian leather is produced for the top of work and army footwear. The plant is close to the commodity markets, has large production capacities, and supplies leather in bulk throughout the country.

“Quality, time-tested” - this phrase reflects the essence of the activity of the Vakhrushi-Yuft enterprise, which has been producing leather since 1854. The plant was the first in Russia to open the production of hydrophobic chromium, having patented its development. The company is in the top 100 the best organizations Russia.

The Rybinsk tannery is equipped with modern equipment, new technologies are constantly being developed here, mastering the production of new types of leather.

Other Russian leather companies - Khromtan, Kozha-M, PF-Volgodon - continue the traditions of the old masters who made Russia famous all over the world thanks to the "Russian leather".

Domestic craftsmen also sew shoes in small batches by hand. Fur boots, unique for a cold climate, can be an example: natural special leather-skin is the basis, and the material of the top is long pile artificial fur(muton). Inside, the high boots are trimmed with natural sheepskin fur.

Yuft, or "Russian leather", has become a world-famous quality standard, a symbol of shoemaking and leather craftsmanship. It's practical and stylish material for the necessary and indispensable attribute of equipment and image - shoes.

Developed from the skins of cattle, horses and pigs.

Terminology

The modern term has spread from the Russian yuft; derivatives - Ukrainian Yufta, Belarusian yukht, Czech juchta, Polish jucht, juchta, French youfte, English yuft, German Juchten. In Russian, the word has been used since the 16th century, borrowed by the East Slavic tribes, in turn, from the ancient Bulgars, but its origin is unclear until the end. Some researchers derive it from the Persian joft(pair, couple), but without sufficient justification. Since yuft is leather made by shearing, forcing hair (wool), then the origin of the word yuft from the Tatar o'fe is possible - to drive out, drive out.

"Yalovy" in the Slavic languages ​​meant animals that did not give birth or had not yet given birth. Cowhide leather for boots was made from the skins of one-year-old bulls or still nulliparous cows. Such leather was optimal for durable and comfortable shoes. Older or younger animals were no good - soft skin calves were still not strong enough, and the thick skins of old cows and bulls, on the contrary, were too tough.

In the world, yuft was often also called "Russian leather" (Eng. russian leather, fr. cuir de Russie). The main difference between Russian yuft and leather vegetable tanned tanned in the rest of the world in the 19th century was that it was the only leather that was soaked with tar. For this reason, such leather did not mold in cabinets and was not spoiled by insects; It is for these qualities that she was valued in the market. Modern yuft is made using a different technology.

Characteristics

The characteristics of yuft produced in Russia are regulated as of 2009 state standard GOST USSR 485-82 “Yuft for shoe uppers. Specifications".

There are two main types of yuft:

• shoe, used for the manufacture of uppers, mainly military and work.
• sandal, used in the manufacture of sandal tops.

Production features

In the production of yuft to give it softness, plasticity, water resistance and resistance to repeated bending, a significant separation of the structural elements of the skin is used by long-term gilding and abundant fattening (fat content in yuft is up to 25% of the skin mass). Key Feature traditional yuft was the use of a mixture of birch tar and seal blubber for fatliquoring, which gave it a characteristic smell, highly valued by consumers in Western Europe.

The yuft is finished from the front surface or along the bakhtarma, using grinding and coating dyeing (traditionally, sandalwood was used for red and gall ink or iron salts for black shoe yuft). Finishing on the front side may be accompanied by the application of an artificial pattern - measure.

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Notes

Literature

• // Encyclopedic Dictionary of Brockhaus and Efron: in 86 volumes (82 volumes and 4 additional). - St. Petersburg. , 1890-1907.

An excerpt characterizing Yuft

The first to speak was General Armfeld, unexpectedly, in order to avoid the present difficulty, by proposing a completely new, in no way (except to show that he, too, may have an opinion) inexplicable position away from the Petersburg and Moscow roads, on which, in his opinion, the army should have united to wait for the enemy. It was evident that Armfeld had drawn up this plan long ago, and that he now presented it not so much with the aim of answering the proposed questions, to which this plan did not answer, but with the aim of taking the opportunity to express it. It was one of millions of assumptions that could be made just as thoroughly as others without having any idea of ​​what character the war would take. Some challenged his opinion, some defended it. The young Colonel Toll disputed the opinion of the Swedish general more than others, and during the argument he took out a written notebook from his side pocket, which he asked permission to read. In a lengthy note, Tol proposed a different plan of campaign - completely contrary to both Armfeld's plan and Pfuel's plan. Pauluchi, objecting to Tolya, proposed a plan for moving forward and attacking, which alone, according to him, could lead us out of the unknown and the trap, as he called the Dris camp in which we were. Pfuel during these disputes and his interpreter Wolzogen (his bridge in a courtly sense) were silent. Pfuel only snorted contemptuously and turned away, showing that he would never stoop to object to the nonsense that he now hears. But when Prince Volkonsky, who was in charge of the debate, called him to present his opinion, he only said:
- What should I ask? General Armfeld offered an excellent position with an open rear. Or attack von diesem italienischen Herrn, sehr schon! [this Italian gentleman, very good! (German)] Or retreat. Auch gut. [Also good (German)] Why ask me? - he said. “After all, you yourself know everything better than me. - But when Volkonsky, frowning, said that he was asking his opinion on behalf of the sovereign, then Pfuel stood up and, suddenly animated, began to say:
- They spoiled everything, confused everyone, everyone wanted to know better than me, and now they came to me: how to fix it? Nothing to fix. Everything must be done exactly according to the reasons I have set forth,” he said, tapping his bony fingers on the table. – What is the difficulty? Nonsense, Kinder spiel. [children's toys (German)] - He went up to the map and began to speak quickly, poking a dry finger on the map and proving that no chance could change the expediency of the Dris camp, that everything was foreseen and that if the enemy really goes around, then the enemy must inevitably be destroyed.