Cellulose acetates were first produced in Great Britain during World War I by the firm of Henry E. Camille Dreyfus, which produced non-flammable varnishes for the fuselage and wings of aircraft of the time. In 1918, this company improved its technology and began to produce acetate in the form of shiny rayon threads. Based on these experiments, various studies immediately began. After some time, many other companies began to produce similar fiber under the general name acetate.
Properties:
Strength: It is one of the softest fibers and is very abrasion resistant.
Elasticity: Much more elastic than any rayon fabric, but its elasticity is still limited, much lower than silk.
Plastic: wrinkles slightly, much less than “rayon” type fabrics.
Drapery: very good drapery fabric due to its flexibility and volume.
Thermal conductivity: does not have strong thermal conductivity, it is more useful to use such fabric in clothing and linings for clothing that is designed to retain heat.
Absorbent properties: weakly absorbs moisture, just like “rayon” type fabrics.
Advantages: acetate fabrics dry quickly (suitable for making umbrellas, swimwear, bathroom curtains).
Flaws: discomfort during extreme heat, becomes damp due to its rather low ability to absorb moisture.
Cleaning and washing: The smooth surface of acetate fabrics allows them to be made hygienic clothes, which does not attract dirt and is easy to clean. Clothes made from this fiber should not be rubbed during the washing process, but should be gently kneaded in water with a neutral detergent, and then lightly wrung out to remove excess water. Such fabrics dry very quickly; to do this, they need to be placed on surfaces adapted for drying that allow water to drain from the fabric.
Whitening: fiber in its original form white and does not require bleaching. However, if bleaching is necessary, it is better to use diluted hydrogen peroxide or sodium hypochloride.
Shrinkage: It is possible to use special anti-shrinkage treatment.
Reaction to temperature: It is a thermoplastic fiber and becomes sticky at 177°C. You need to iron it with a warm iron.
Exposure to light: A fiber more resistant to light than cotton or rayon, but prolonged exposure to the sun tends to weaken it.
Exposure to mold: very resistant to its effects.
Insects: do not harm the fiber.
Interaction with alkali: concentrated alkaline solutions harm the fiber.
Colorability: Due to the fiber's ability to quickly absorb moisture, special dyes have been developed for it.
However, these dyes are not weather-resistant. To avoid this problem, you need to dye acetate fiber in a solution. Sweat resistance:
If the acetate was not painted in solution, the color will be damaged later.
Acetate can be mixed with:
- wool: such a connection reduces the shrinkage of the fabric and does not allow the formation of “rolling” balls on the surface of the clothing.
- by area: the most used connection. Clothing wrinkles less and does not absorb moisture as much as pure acetate.
TRIACETATE
Strength: Properties:
weak fiber. Elasticity:
Plastic: the same as that of acetate.
Drapery: Elasticity:
Thermal conductivity: It is one of the most suitable fibers for giving shape to clothing.
the same as acetate. Absorption:
Cleaning and washing: less than acetate. The fabric gets wet superficially before the moisture penetrates inside. It is used for the manufacture of clothing that must have a certain degree of water repellency.
Whitening: Triacetate fabrics are easy to wash and clean, they hardly shrink and are much stronger when wet than acetate fabrics. They can be washed at 70°C and spun in a centrifuge.
Shrinkage: good reaction to bleaches.
Reaction to temperature: does not shrink.
thermoplastic fiber that becomes sticky at 300°C. If the fabric is ironed too hot, it acquires additional shine. Reaction to light:
Exposure to mold: more durable than silk, rayon, acetate, opaque nylon. Used to make curtains and curtains for windows.
Insects: very resistant to mold.
Interaction with alkali: like acetate.
triacetate is very stable. Interaction with acids:
triacetate is less susceptible to acid reaction than all other fibers, but concentrated solutions of strong acids destroy it. WITH coloring ability:
good. Reaction to sweat:
Hardly ever. May be mixed with:
cotton, wool, rayon.
Polyester fiber consists of straight chain polymers and is obtained from substances produced from coal, air, water and oil. These fibers are chemically replaced by 85% carboxylic aromatized acid ester, which includes the substituent terephthaltate or para-hydrosibenzoate. There are three types of polyester yarn: constant spun yarn, structured yarn and fluffy yarn.
There are also two main types of polyester: PES and PCDT.
Properties:
Strength: Polyester threads are relatively strong. PES type fibers are stronger than PCDT type KODEL 200 series.
weak fiber. Polyester fibers are not particularly elastic, except that PCDT fibers are more elastic than PEC fibers.
Plastic: In general, polyester fibers are characterized by high tensile strength, which allows polyester fabrics not to deform too easily and not lose their shape under stress.
Drapery: has a high ability to retain shape, and PCDT type polyester has this ability more than PES type polyester.
Thermal conductivity: satisfactory.
Polyester fabrics conduct heat better than acrylic fabrics. Absorption:
The least absorbent fiber, this quality gives fabrics made from this fiber two advantages:
- they dry quickly, since moisture is retained more on the outer surface of the fabric rather than penetrating into it, this allows the use of such fabrics in the manufacture of products with water-repellent properties;
Reaction to temperature:- stains hardly form on such fabrics due to their low ability to absorb moisture.
thermoplastic fiber that becomes sticky at 300°C. If the fabric is ironed too hot, it acquires additional shine. polyester becomes sticky at temperatures between 200°C and 230°C. At temperatures from 230°C to 250°C, polyester begins to melt and burn.
Exposure to mold: When exposed to light, the quality of the fabric does not deteriorate.
Insects: does not interact.
Interaction with alkali: do not spoil the fabric.
Hardly ever. good at ambient temperature.
cotton, wool, rayon, triacetate, nylon. Acetate (and triacetate) fibers are artificial, that is, obtained as a result of special processing of natural raw materials, in contrast to synthetic fibers obtained as a result of chemical synthesis. The basis of acetate and triacetate fibers is not pure cellulose, as is the case with viscose, but cellulose acetate. The fabric obtained from them is often called “artificial silk”. Indeed, she is very similar to natural silk
Acetate and triacetate fabrics hold their shape well, are resistant to microorganisms, elastic, and pleasant to the touch. Acetate is a component of yarn with cotton, wool, and mohair. It should also be noted that acetate has the ability to transmit ultra-violet rays. Products made from acetate dry quickly, but do not tolerate contact with the iron; They should be washed at a temperature not exceeding 30 degrees.
Yarn with acetate: Lina.
Acetate and triacetate
Unlike viscose, acetate and triacetate fibers do not consist of pure cellulose, but of cellulose acetate. They have a slightly shiny surface and look like natural silk. They retain their shape well and hardly wrinkle. They do not absorb moisture well and melt under high heat, so these fabrics are well suited for pleating. Fabrics containing acetate are washed by hand or in a machine at 30°C in a gentle cycle. Fabrics containing triacetate can be machine washed normally at 70°C. These fabrics should not be dried in a tumble dryer. They need to be hung to dry. These fabrics dry quickly and require almost no ironing. If you want to iron them, do it from the wrong side through an iron and a warm iron. Triacetate can be ironed in the wool/silk setting. Properties: Fabrics made from acetate and triacetate silk have a slightly shiny surface and are very similar in appearance to natural silk. They keep their shape very well and hardly wrinkle. Acetate silk does not take moisture well (approx. 6%), but dries quickly. Acetate does not tolerate heat well (melts at 210°) and dissolves in acetone. Triacetate silk absorbs even less moisture than acetate, but has greater heat resistance 9 melting point approx. 300°), and it retains its shape well when pleated. Appeal: Acetate should be washed by hand or machine at 30°C on a gentle cycle. Dry cleaning is also possible. Never place acetate clothing in the dryer, but hang it up to dry. Acetate dries quickly and requires almost no ironing. If ironing is required, it is better to iron the fabric on the wrong side through the fabric and with a slight heating of the iron.
Triacetate silk tolerates ordinary machine washable at temperatures up to 70°C and ironing with a hotter iron (“silk/wool” setting). Otherwise, triacetate products are treated the same as acetate.
One of the fabrics that combines positive traits synthetics and natural – acetate. Its name will mean nothing to many, although it is quite common. So what kind of material is this with such a strange name, let’s figure it out.
Acetate was invented in England at the beginning of the last century; it is a fiber produced from cellulose using a special technology using chemical reagents - cellulose acetate. To obtain it, a dry method is used, and acetone is used as an organic solvent.
Description, properties, characteristics, application
Unlike synthetics obtained from chemical compounds, acetate is a successful symbiosis of natural raw materials and reagents. To prevent the fabric from becoming electrified, the resulting thread is specially treated before weaving. Acetate lends itself well to coloring, which allows you to obtain a large number of bright colors.
In terms of its properties, acetate fiber is superior to ordinary viscose; it is more elastic, stronger, softer to the touch and less wrinkled, with a characteristic silky sheen. Acetate fabrics resemble natural silk in appearance and tactility, and the cost of production is much lower, as is the selling price. The properties of the British invention explain its popularity.
- Decorative– duplicating silk, allows you to sew beautiful things.
- Elastic– keeps its shape well, which simplifies care and allows things to always look good.
- Pleasant– does not create discomfort on the body; on the contrary, it is very pleasant to wear.
- Hypoallergenic– viscose base is neutral, even for allergy sufferers sensitive skin easy contact with acetate.
- Unpretentious– easy to wash, does not require special care, but you should handle it carefully, wet weak to tear.
- Breathable– allows air to pass through well, but practically does not absorb moisture.
- Available– looks like silk, feels like silk, and costs significantly less.
The characteristics of the fabric predetermined the scope of its application: consumer goods. All kinds of clothing and household items are sewn from it.
- Underwear, including everyone's favorite skimpy nightwear, negligees and dressing gowns.
- Outerwear.
- Bed sheets.
- Furniture covers.
- Curtains.
Kinds
Acetate fabric is divided into acetate and triacetate, they differ in the production method and the solvents used, but the resulting material is almost identical. With similar, positive characteristics mentioned above, it also has the same disadvantages.
- Wears out quickly.
- Electrifies despite treatment.
- It loses its appearance as it is washed.
- Weak to tear.
To improve the properties, manufacturers introduce artificial or natural fibers into the acetate composition. This increases the strength of the fabric, extends its service life and prevents damage during washing. Typically acetate is combined with polyester, although combinations with cotton or wool are also found.
Both acetate and triacetate are also called artificial or acetate silk, due to their external similarity and some common properties. To obtain the fabric, acetate fiber is woven in a special way so that the surface acquires a characteristic shine and silkiness.
On video - a film about acetate fiber:
Production
To produce silk acetate, raw materials (cellulose acetate or cellulose acetate ester) are dissolved in acetone. Afterwards, the mass is heated, the acetone evaporates, and the base is passed through a very thin filter, solidifying into threads. They are further processed, twisted and then woven into fabric.
Even a schoolchild with a little knowledge of chemistry can easily read the formula for acetate silk; it looks like this: n. If you try, you can actually get acetate silk even in laboratory conditions in a lesson, so on a production scale it is not difficult. The formula may be slightly modified, depending on the modifiers used in production, designed to improve the quality of the thread and the performance of the finished fabric.
How to distinguish it from other materials
How to distinguish acetate and natural silk? Although artificial silk resembles natural silk, it can be distinguished by knowing some subtleties.
- If you separate several threads and set them on fire, the natural ones will smell like burnt hair and will burn into ash, which can be easily rubbed between your fingers.
- Silk made from acetate, although not much, wrinkles if you squeeze the fabric in your fist and then straighten it, traces of folds will be visible on acetate, but on natural they will almost even out.
- Natural silk applied to the body will almost instantly equalize the temperature, acetate silk will remain cool longer, and, whatever one may say, the silkworm derivative is more pleasant to the touch.
- Nylon can be distinguished from acetate by touch; it is rougher, not as elastic and soft. After drying, nylon does not require ironing, but silk will have to be ironed at least slightly.
- Nylon has a coarser weave of threads; they do not fit so tightly to each other, so the surface is slightly rough, while silk is perfectly smooth and soft.
- When compressed, nylon produces a characteristic crunch, but acetate does not.
- Artificial silk is dissolved with acetone, and nylon with acid.
Product care
Whether clothing or household items made of acetate fiber, it is necessary to take care of them taking into account their characteristics.
- Wash by hand or on delicate cycle, but hands are better.
- Use only neutral detergents; when rinsing, it is better to use softening additives.
- Dry without using heating devices, in the air, carefully hanging and smoothing with your hands.
- If necessary, ironing is done from the wrong side and preferably through a damp natural fabric.
The disadvantages of a rather finicky material are corrected by its ability to repel dust and dirt. Although linens and clothes will need to be washed frequently, furniture covers and curtains will hang for months without the need for cleaning.
Acetate is not the easiest fabric to use, but the difficulties with its use and short eyelids are more than compensated by its stunning appearance. And it’s a pleasure to wear on your body, and sleeping on silk sheets, even if artificial, will be serene on a summer night. It is enough to follow the care recommendations so that the items last and remain beautiful for as long as possible.
This article is dedicated exclusively to fabrics acetate. Of course, not only fabrics are made from acetate, but also, for example, combs and eyeglass frames.
Acetate (acetate, acetato)- an artificial fabric “related” to viscose (which, by the way, is called rayon in English). The difference between acetate and viscose is that while viscose is obtained from cellulose, acetate is obtained from cellulose acetate (acetic acid is added to cellulose). Acetate is inexpensive and is used mainly as lining for trousers, jackets, jackets and coats (men's, women's and children's). In addition, acetate is sometimes produced women's dresses and blouses.
A little history
In 1865, chemist Paul Schutzenberger first discovered that cellulose could react with acetic acid and that this reaction produced cellulose acetate. In 1894, English chemists Charles Frederick Cross and Edward John Bevan patented a method for producing cellulose acetate. The Swiss Camille and Henri Dreyfus began actively studying and commercializing acetate in the 1900s. The Dreyfuss, by the way, also invented a synthetic blue dye - a replacement for natural indigo.
After the First World War, the production of acetate fabrics began to develop, but at first they were unpopular. Widespread commercial use of acetate fabric began around the second half of the 1920s. By the middle of the 20th century, acetate (as well as a mixture of acetate and viscose) was already very actively used for the production of clothing. Today it is also very popular (usually in combination with viscose, less often with cotton).
Acetate Features:
- Good (but not excellent) wear resistance.
- Low price.
- Doesn't wrinkle.
- Does not cause allergies.
- It has a moderate shine and resembles silk, but it does not look and feel as noble as high-quality natural silk or, say, cupro (bemberg). Somewhat less pleasant to wear than natural silk and cupro.
- Much less hygroscopic (absorbs moisture worse) than viscose or cotton.
- Dries quickly.
- Very sensitive to heat (melts at a temperature of approximately 200 degrees). Acetate should be ironed at a minimum temperature, preferably on the reverse side and through the fabric.
In general, acetate is better than polyester as a lining material, but worse than cotton. However, acetate is often used in combination with other materials; usually viscose or cotton. Let's say the lining may consist of 40% viscose and 60% acetate. This option is definitely better than 100% polyester, but definitely worse than 100% cupro (or bemberg).
I don’t see the point in listing manufacturers of clothes with acetate lining, since acetate is not a material worth pursuing.
This article was written within the framework.
Fabrics made from artificial fibers have long entered our lives and enjoy deserved popularity. They are beautiful, varied, have good performance properties, and most importantly - inexpensive. All artificial fibers are obtained by processing cellulose, however, depending on the technology, the properties of the resulting materials will be different; accordingly, their care will also differ.
What is acetate?
The name "acetate" comes from the word "vinegar", because this fiber is obtained by treating cellulose with acetic acid salts, resulting in the formation of the substance "cellulose acetate". It was first obtained at the end of the 19th century from cotton wool, and for a long time did not find practical use.
In 1909, this substance began to be used for the manufacture of photographic and film films, and only at the beginning of the First World War a method for producing acetate from cellulose was developed in Great Britain. This significantly reduced the cost of its production, which at that time was focused primarily on military purposes. Acetate was part of fire-resistant varnishes used to coat airplanes, was used as an insulating material, was added to natural silk, and was used to make waterproof materials.
The material now has many technical applications, from eyeglass frames to armoring rocket fuel tanks.
Acetate yarn is very elastic, it does not crease easily, and is called “artificial silk” because it has a slight shine and is pleasant to the touch.
However, its use for making clothes was hampered by the fact that acetate can only be colored using special dyes. After their invention, it became widespread both as an independent material and as a component in fabrics of mixed composition.
Properties of acetate fabrics
Technologists distinguish between two types of fiber obtained using salts of acetic acid - acetate and triacetate (although the composition of the fabric on the label may not reflect this), while triacetate is more heat-resistant and its fibers have greater shine.
Advantages
The main properties of these fabrics are:
- acetate fibers are less elastic than natural silk, but much more elastic than viscose;
- this material has low thermal conductivity, therefore it is often used to cover insulating linings of clothing;
- acetate and triacetate do not absorb water well, which makes clothing made from them non-hygroscopic, but they are indispensable for swimsuits, umbrellas, bathroom curtains, and are not damaged by mold and insects;
- acetate transmits ultraviolet rays, but is resistant to their effects;
- artificial silk has a smooth surface, it does not get dirty easily, is easy to clean and dries quickly;
- the plasticity of acetate fibers allows this material to drape beautifully, and triacetate is often used to create durable pleating.
Flaws
- The main negative characteristic of acetate fibers is their low strength and instability to abrasion.
- They electrify, do not absorb sweat, and with their low thermal conductivity in hot weather, clothing made from them is not very comfortable.
- In addition, this material dissolves in acetone, is not resistant to acids and alkalis, and often sticks to a heated iron.
- Acetate yarn shrinks, but most fabrics receive an anti-shrink treatment at the manufacturing stage.
- The colors of acetate fabrics are very diverse, but their dyes are not very resistant to prolonged exposure to sunlight, as well as human sweat.
What are acetate fabrics suitable for?
First of all, inexpensive, bright and pleasant to the touch, artificial silk is used for creating an easy clothes. It is used to make elegant and practical swimsuits, spectacular underwear and other wardrobe items.
Plastic and thin acetate drapes beautifully and holds folds well, so it is often used for curtains and draperies. It is also widely used to create stage costumes, as lining and for other purposes.
This fiber is often included in mixed fabrics, adding it to natural silk, cotton, wool, which does not impair their properties, but reduces the price.
It should be noted that yarn made from wool and acetate does not form pills and does not shrink.
The mixed acetate-viscose composition increases the hygroscopicity and elasticity of the material. For lingerie knitwear and swimsuits, elastane or lycra is added, which increases the elasticity of the fabric and guarantees a good fit.
Washing and ironing
Caring for acetate fabrics is very simple:
- They are easy to wash, and to prevent premature wear, they should be washed in warm water at low speeds or by hand.
- The detergent should not contain bleach.
- This material dries very quickly, but at the same time it can become deformed, so you need to dry things made from it in a well-flatten form, and, of course, avoid exposing them to direct sunlight.
- Acetate products practically do not require ironing. You need to iron them very carefully, from the wrong side and through the fabric.
- Triacetate is more heat-resistant, it can withstand ironing in the “silk-wool” mode and create fairly strong folds, but this operation requires great care.
If treated with care, acetate will serve for a long time, remaining beautiful and elegant.
