We sew a dress with lace. Evening dress patterns

Admin 2013-11-24 at 8:00 pm

Hello, friends.

Have you tried to sew yourself a dress from transparent or elastic materials? I'll try to guess - probably yes.

And what problems stopped or slowed you down? If these problems are finding a pattern or questions about how to sew a dress from such capricious materials, then this Sunday's article on sewing a beautiful lace dress is for you.

And at the end of the article, we’ll talk a little about the exclusive - or how to manually decorate a dress and create a very beautiful outfit.

But let me save you from the illusion that this dress is suitable for any figure. Not at all. This style is suitable only for the fragile constitution of a girl with thin waist. Only this dress will not make such a figure bulky and look like a doll from a samovar. If your waist is too full, then don’t even try to sew this dress for yourself - it won’t be beautiful.

Now to the point. You can create a dress pattern

The skirts for these dresses are simply cut out as a rectangle.

For the skirt you need to cut out two rectangles - for the front and back parts of the skirt. The width of one panel is cut out to cover the entire width of the fabric - that is, 140 or 110 cm. Don’t skimp, it’s the thick gathering at the waist that makes the skirt of the dress so rich.

And the height of the panel, respectively, is the length of the skirt.

If you sew from lace, the width of the lace fabric can be 110 cm. From this width, you can also make two panels and the assembly will be enough.

Materials

Now about the materials from which such dresses can be sewn:

For the bodice, embroidered lace based on elastic or non-elastic mesh, ready-made embroidery on chiffon or organza are suitable. Any base, in general, will do. Only when processing elastic materials should you take into account that the seams are stretched by the stitches and in the finished product may look like wavy lines, and the stitches must also be elastic, otherwise the seams will burst.

For the skirt it is not necessary to use the same fabric as for the bodice. It can be organza, rigid mesh, lace or any of the above fabrics with embroidery, lace or hand embroidery.

Such a fluffy shape can only be achieved due to the rigidity of the main fabric.

There is definitely an underskirt with rings - with one or two, and on top of it there is another underskirt made of rigid mesh with frills.

I already wrote about how to sew such a skirt with frills

In the photo of the second dress, where the hem of the dress is slightly raised, such an underskirt is visible.

Sewing a dress

1) Sewing a skirt is not particularly difficult: sew a seam 1 cm wide and overlock the side seams, iron towards the front. There will be a hidden zipper on the back of the dress.

2) The fastener will be from the very neck to a point located 18-20 cm below the waist line. Therefore, on the back panel of the skirt you need to make a seam where the zipper will be sewn in. Sew the middle seam of the skirt from the fastener downwards with a seam 1.5 cm wide. Press the seams until they are overcast. Put the skirt aside.

3) Cut out the paper pattern pieces in your size and cut out the dress bodice pieces from calico. This will be the layout. On the side seams, the allowance for processing seams in the layout is no less than 2.5 cm. The allowance on the shoulder seams is 1.5 cm. The allowance along the bottom cut of the bodice of the dress is no less than 2.5 cm. The size of these allowances concerns only the layout. After specifying the fit of the bodice on the figure, cut out the details of the bodice from lace and make allowances in accordance with the recommendations, which I will describe below.

4) Sew chest darts on the front and iron upwards. Sew the front waist darts - press towards the center.

The shoulder and waist darts of the back are also stitched and ironed towards the center.

5) The algorithm for processing the neckline and armhole in such a product deserves a careful and thoughtful approach. But if you follow these simple recommendations, your dress will look neat and beautiful. And most importantly, this type of processing is perfect for transparent fabrics.

Sew the shoulder seams using one of the methods described below. Now I will briefly pay attention to two ways to process side and shoulder seams if you sew from elastic mesh:

The first method of processing an elastic seam: hInitially leave the seam gap at 1.5 cm. This will make it easier for you to process it. And after stitching, you can trim it to 7 mm with an overlocker.

So, before stitching the seam, place masking tape on the fabric to the left of the stitching. The tape should not cover the stitching area, but should run exactly end to end. Now, using a zig-zag stitch, we sew along the tape to the right of it, without catching the tape itself, otherwise you won’t be able to remove it later.

This way you can avoid stretching the material and the stitching will be good and neat. Then overlock the edge of the seam and remove the tape.

Second way It also helps a lot in grinding down stretchable materials and, in addition, it guarantees that there will be no gaps in the stitching if the machine is capricious.

To do this, you need to tear off strips 2-3 cm wide from the newspaper. You just need to tear off the white areas, without block letters, since the paint gets very dirty and you risk ruining the light-colored material.

The first step is to sew the side or shoulder seam with a regular straight stitch, only placing a strip of newspaper on the fabric.

Remove the newspaper and, in the second step, stitch in a zigzag pattern over the first line. The first stitch joins the layers and prevents the fabric from stretching, while the second stitch secures the seam and makes it strong. Then overcast the edge of the seam, you can cut it to the very narrow width- 0.5 cm, so the seam will look softer and more invisible.

And I want to give you one more piece of advice if you sew from chiffon. Chiffon seams are loose, and even if the seams are 1.5 cm long, they can still spill out during use of the product, especially in those places where the fabric runs along the bias - the armhole, for example.

I sew such seams with a narrow and frequent zig-zag stitch, 1.5 - 2 mm wide. Or a very frequent straight stitch - 10 stitches per 1 cm.

So, the shoulder seams were sewn. Now cut out a 4 cm wide strip from the main fabric along the bias, fold it in half lengthwise and iron it. Finish the neckline of the dress's armhole with this bias piping in the manner described in the sewing process.

6) Sew the side seams and press towards the front.

7) Take the skirt and gather it evenly along the top edge by 2 threads until the length of the cut is equal to the bottom edge of the bodice.

Pin and sew the skirt to the bottom edge of the bodice. Overlock the cut using an overlocker. Do not iron the seam, but point it down when sewing in the lock.

8) Sew a hidden zipper to the middle sections of the back.

9) Well, now about petticoats in more detail. This dress has two petticoats. The bottom one has rings. The second is made of mesh with waves or frills. So, this intermediate skirt can be sewn separately or sewn to the dress. If you want to sew it onto the dress, now, at this stage, is the time.

The underskirt is sewn on the wrong side of the bodice. It turns out that the bodice is inserted between the upper and lower skirt. This way, a fairly dense and prickly seam will be hidden inside the skirts and will not cause discomfort. Serve hedgehog seam once.

10) Hem the bottom of the overskirt thin double seam: First, fold the bottom edge towards the wrong side of the skirt by 5 mm and stitch to the edge, and then fold it a second time and sew with a second line that falls into the first. Iron the bottom of the skirt.

11) Hand stitches Hem the middle sections of the petticoat to the lock. Press the zipper seam.

Probably, many have encountered the problem that cutting and sewing magazines are full of a variety of patterns for everyday and business outfits, but there are very few evening models. They are usually boring and don't always follow fashion trends. For this occasion, a selection of patterns has been created for you. evening dresses from the catwalk from world couturiers. Sexy mermaid dress, A-line with a deep neckline, classic straight and disco short - these outfits will always be relevant.

Mermaid

We can say that the mermaid is the most interesting style for designers. The fitted silhouette and flared skirt remain unchanged, but what the bodice and tail will look like depends on your imagination.

We present to your attention a simple model with straps and a light drapery on the bodice, which will give a small volume to the chest and focus attention specifically on the décolleté area, wide belt This will further contribute to this.

Front modeling

1. Add by basic pattern the length of the skirt you need and flare it. The splendor of the “tail” depends on the width of the flare.
2. Draw the neckline and armhole. Close the dart.
3. The bodice is cut off, so set aside 15-16 cm from the neckline and model a belt 8-9 cm high (see pattern).
4. The belt is ready, we will cut it.

Bodice modeling

Cut the front of the bodice along the lines and widen it by two cm (see picture). The distance between parts can be increased to 3 cm if you want the number of assemblies to be large.

Back modeling

Model the back in the same way as the front of the dress.

This outfit should be very tight-fitting to the silhouette, which means that minimal increases in freedom of fit are made.

Belt and bow design

1. To drape the belt, you need a rectangle with a width equal to the width of the front part of the belt (detail 2). Its height is 2 times greater.
2. Sew the rectangle along the sides, carefully pull it evenly to the width of the front waistband. Baste them together and stitch them together. Then baste the drapery along the top and bottom edges. Then sew as a single-layer piece.
3. For the bow, also cut out two rectangles. Their finished width should be equal to the width of the front part of the belt, and their length should be 75 cm.
4. Sew all the details of the dress. Sew the finished bow elements into the sides of the mermaid and tie with a bow.

Half couture

At one of the shows, Elie Saab presented a red chiffon dress with the illusion of nudity.

The cut of the model is quite complex, so we will consider the sewing stages in detail.

Required for work:

• lining fabric to match the skin tone;
• Chantilly lace;
• chiffon:
• lightning.

Constructing a pattern

Please note that there are 2 options for creating an evening dress pattern with your own hands:

• draw on graph paper and then cut out;
• use the RedCafe program.

The program has a convenient function that divides lines by color, so you can see the location of all the lines.

Note that modeling a skirt is quite simple and you can immediately do it on fabric.

Cutting out the lining

The modeling stage is over, let's start working with the fabric.

• Print out the pattern and fold it into a single piece, matching the corners.
• Then transfer the pattern to the lining fabric and trace the lines with soap or a piece of chalk. You can use a disappearing marker.

Sew darts and side seams on a machine without backtack and with a large stitch width. This basting is necessary to check the desired fit of the bodice on the mannequin.

Since the model is difficult to sew, check the fit frequently. This way you will be more successful in achieving the desired results.

Working with lace

Cut out the lace fabric according to the pattern of the lining fabric. Fasten it on the sides and sew the darts, after cutting off the excess lace along all the cuts.

Stitch the darts at the waist and iron them towards the center. Make sure that they are not visible on the lace from the front side.

Stitching raised lines

At this stage, the sequence of stitching the embossed binding is important. The pattern should be beautiful, without overlapping lines. To understand which line will come first, make a sample. For contour lines, use knit bias tape. It is shine-free and easy to work with.

Processing slices

Use knitted tape to trim the edges of the armhole and neckline. Finish the neckline, which turns into a slit on the back, with tape stitched into a spread.

Cut out your skirts

The half-sun skirt consists of a thick lining and transparent chiffon.

Make the bottom radius the desired width.

Working with large cuts has its own characteristics:

• Make sure there are no defects, stains, or stitches on the fabric;
• Try to buy the material in stock so you don’t overpay.
• Keep in mind that chiffon with natural threads can shrink, so carry out a wet-heat treatment on a sample of the material.

Get rid of the edge. After making a cut, tear it off along the bottom and top edges of the fabric.

To assemble the skirt along the waist line, lay 2 lines 1 cm apart and carefully pull to the desired width. It is better to take reinforced threads, they are resistant to strong tension.

Sew a lined chiffon skirt. Process the cuts using an overlocker. Attach the resulting hem to the bodice of the dress on the mannequin. Correct any discrepancies if necessary.

Sew the zipper into the middle seam of the skirt.

At the final stage, connect all the parts. Sew the belt to the skirt with frills along the bottom edge, and then to the top of the dress.

Short dress with one sleeve

The one-shoulder evening option not only allows you to move away from the usual styles, it has a number of advantages, such as practicality. The dress pattern will be relevant for any occasion. The solemnity of the model will depend on the chosen material, but you can adjust the length to your liking.

Modeling

1. On the base pattern, cut the chest and shoulder darts.
2. Align the shoulder sections.
3. Close the darts and decorate the neckline.
4. Model the back.

The increase in looseness of fit depends on the fabric you choose. If it is elastic, then the increase is minimal - 1.5 cm. When modeling, be sure to completely retake the back and front of the outfit onto tracing paper.

Lace is very beautiful material, which gives femininity and grace to every girl. Today lace is very fashionable; it is used to sew absolutely all clothes, including tracksuits. But lace dresses have remained especially relevant for more than one season. Despite the lightness and thinness of the fabric, sewing such things is quite easy. We present to your attention several step by step lessons how to sew a lace dress with your own hands. We hope they will help you create truly unique pieces that will not go unnoticed.

Basic rules for working with lace that everyone should know

Despite the simplicity of working with lace, problems may arise if you do not know certain nuances. So that you do not have such embarrassments, we bring to your attention several rules that will significantly simplify and speed up the process:

• You can connect the lace parts using sewing machine or overlocker. IN in this case the choice of tool depends entirely on the pattern and density of the material.
• The cut of the allowances can be processed using bias tape or an overlocker.
• If the product needs to be adjusted strictly to the figure, it is best to use knitted lace for these purposes.
• If the finished product is not intended to be transparent, you will need to select a lining. For these purposes, it is best to choose thin knitted fabrics, satin or silk.

Important! To make the finished product more original and extraordinary, the lining should be chosen in a contrasting color.

• If you are making a dress or other item of stretch lace, it is best to reinforce the shoulder seams by sewing cotton bias tape to them.
• Try to choose models with a minimum number of seams. This is necessary in order not to cut the material too much and not spoil the ornament.

• If the piece of lace you choose has scallops, you can beautifully decorate the edges with them finished product, sleeves or neckline.
• This material should be ironed very carefully at low temperature.

Lesson #1. Dream dress

We suggest you sew a maxi length lace dress with lining. This outfit would be ideal for a wedding or prom.

To make it you will need the following tools and materials:

• 3.5 meters of lace;
• 3 meters of knitted fabric for lining;
• Scissors;
• Soap or tailor's marker;
• Tape measure;
• Sewing machine;
• Threads in color;
• Overlock;
• Needles;
• Tailor's pins;
• Concealed zipper;
• Bias tape.

Sequence of actions when sewing an outfit:

• Carefully trim the scalloped edge of the lace.
• Create a pattern and cut out the parts you need from it.

Important! You can create a pattern yourself or download a ready-made one from the Internet.

• Transfer the cut out pattern elements to the lace and cut out the details of the future product. Do the same with knitwear for the lining.

Important! The parts for the cover should be cut 4 centimeters smaller than the parts cut from lace.

• Cut out the “train” piece from the lace.
• Finish the edges of the lining with bias tape. It should be sewn on using an overlocker, and then sharpened using a sewing machine.
• On the lace part of the dress, sew up the side and chest darts. They should be topstitched on the front side using a zigzag seam.
• Trim off excess fabric from the wrong side of the workpiece.
• Place the lace blank on the lining blank.
• Using tailor's pins, pin the pieces together and stitch them with a sewing machine.
• Sew scallops onto the neckline using a zigzag stitch.
• Along the middle line of the back, sew the layers of the lining and the lace part with an overlocker.
• Insert a hidden zipper into the middle of the back.
• Hide the zipper tails and secure them with a hand stitch.
• Place the details of the train on top of each other and sew it in from the middle of the back. It should be in the form of a wedge.

That's all, your elegant lace dream dress is ready! You can wear it like this and add sleeves if you want.

Lesson #2. Lace cocktail dress

This dress is also suitable for prom and parties. To make it you will need the following tools and materials:

• Lace. It can be made of either elastic or inelastic mesh;
• Ready-made embroidery on chiffon;
• Organza for a skirt;
• Scissors;
• Sewing machine and overlocker;
• Tape measure;
• Tailor's Marker;
• Tailor's pins;
• Threads in color;
• Calico for layout;
• Needles.

The procedure is as follows:

1. Cut out the necessary elements of the outfit according to the pattern.
2. Transfer the pattern design onto the skirt fabric and cut out the desired piece.
3. Sew the skirt blank with a 1 centimeter seam and overlock the side seams.
4. Iron the piece towards the front.
5. Make a seam where the zipper will be sewn in.
6. Sew the middle seam of the skirt, starting from the fastener 1.5 centimeters wide. Press the seams.
7. Cut out the elements of the bodice pattern, transfer the design to calico and cut out the blank.
8. Baste the bodice from the layout fabric and make any necessary adjustments and changes.
9. Cut out the lace bodice, taking into account all corrections and adjustments.
10. Sew the bust darts and press them upwards.
11. Sew the waist darts and press them towards the center.
12. Sew the shoulder seams. This can be done in two ways:
    • Initially, leave a seam margin of about 1.5 centimeters. Place masking tape on the fabric to the left of the stitching. It should not cover the place of the stitch itself, but will go exactly end-to-end. Along the tape right side stitch with a zigzag stitch. Finish the edge of the seam and remove the tape.

Important! Try not to touch the tape while stitching.

• Cut strips 2-3 centimeters wide from newspaper or paper. Sew the shoulder or side seam with a regular straight stitch, having first placed a paper strip. Remove the strip and sew a zigzag stitch onto the finished seam. Serge the edges of the seam and cut off any excess.

Important! If you are working with chiffon fabric, you should take into account the fact that its edges are quite loose. Therefore, so that your finished outfit does not simply come apart, the edges should be processed with a narrow and frequent zigzag seam.

1. From the main fabric, cut a strip 4 centimeters wide along the bias. Fold it lengthwise and in half, then iron it.
2. Finish the neckline with a bias stitch.
3. Stitch the side seams and press them towards the front.
4. Take the skirt blank and gather it along the top edge so that it is even with the bottom edge of the bodice.
5. Pin together the skirt and bodice pieces.
6. Overlock the seam with a serger and iron it downwards.
7. Sew a hidden zipper to the middle sections of the back.

That's it, the dress is ready! If desired, it can be made more voluminous by wearing a petticoat with rings or an organza petticoat with frills underneath.

Important! The organza underskirt should be sewn according to the same principle as the overskirt for the dress.

Lesson #3. How to sew a lace dress for a girl

For the manufacture of summer dress for your little princess you will need the following tools and materials:

• A piece of lace fabric;
• A piece of cotton fabric;
• Threads in color;
• Needles;
• Tailor's pins;
• Sewing machine.

For a successful result, make the necessary measurements first:

• Waist circumference;
• Chest volume;
• The desired length of the future product.

Further order of work.

Lace is a favorite material for wedding dresses. Although many dressmakers consider working with lace fabric to be very difficult, you will be pleased to know that these difficulties are somewhat exaggerated. The advantage of lace is that it does not need to process the sections and cut them out only along the grain thread. In addition, a good result will reward you for all your efforts.

Properties of lace.

Lace fabric for wedding dress, as a rule, has a complex pattern. The popular lace tulle, like many other types of lace fabric, has a mesh (or honeycomb) as a base, on which the pattern is repeated and protruding loops (picot) along the scallops.

High-quality lace fabrics are very thin, they can be decorated with hand or machine embroidery, braid, ribbons, sequins, pearls, beads or seed beads. The honeycomb structure of lace fabric allows you to ignore the direction of the grain thread and work creatively with patterned motifs and scallops.

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Lace fabrics and canvases are usually of small width and are used for cutting yokes, trims or appliqués. Sometimes the entire bodice and sleeves are made from lace fabric. Machine-made lace has patterned repeats along its entire length and not always scallops and processed edges. Some motifs of such lace are repeated quite often and can be cut into strips to finish the edges of the product. You can also choose well-matching strips for finishing the edges of lace parts.

Layout of lace patterns.

Lace fabric can be used for the entire dress or just for its individual parts. When purchasing lace fabric, pay attention to how much material is required in terms of the pattern as well as the layout of the lace patterns.
Think if you can the best way use this lace fabric for your project.

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See how the lace itself, its pattern, weight and density will combine with the style of your dress. Consider the direction of cutting the lace: will you need to cut it lengthwise, widthwise, or cut out individual patterns or edges with scallops.

Look carefully at the lace pattern: can you use individual sections of it for finishing? You can decorate the edges of the product with lace scallops, in addition, decorate the product with lace appliqués or edge the lace edges with braid. Depending on the type and weight of the lace fabric you choose, you must decide whether you will use a backing and, if so, what kind.

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Some are very beautiful dresses made without lining. Choose only a lining that will not affect appearance your lace. It is better to use lining fabric for transparent lace; it can be the same color as it or another, or even contrasting. Lining will make your dress tighter, more comfortable and allow for a better fit.

Some laces are thin, but very prickly. For them, it is better to use an almost invisible thin mesh or tulle as a lining fabric. The lining can be shiny or matte. Try combining lace with satin, taffeta, organdy, crepe, voile or fine leotard.

When working with lace light color Cover your work surface with a smooth dark cloth and lay out the lace in one layer on the cloth. Place all paper patterns on the lace, paying attention to how the lace patterns lie on the right and left sides of the front and back, as well as in the middle.

Either pin the parts onto the lace with thin pins, or press them with weights. You only need to cut out lace fabric using cutting scissors.

1

Open the lace.

When cutting lace, try to ensure that its pattern is not disrupted by the seam, but ends near the seam. Carefully plan and lay out your paper patterns, similar to how you would work with tartan. Arrange the patterns evenly and think about how to join the parts. Having achieved a good result, secure the paper patterns with thin pins or weights.

Lace embroidered with ribbons, where the ribbons highlight the floral motifs, requires more careful thought, although the well-known statement that lace does not fray is true, however, your results will be better if you do not cut the ribbons that frame the outer line of the design.

To make it easier to cut out the lace while maintaining the integrity of the pattern, use thread to trace the line of the motif. Use a thread of a different color to mark the stitching line. Cut the lace behind the stitching line, but you can give a regular seam allowance of 1.5 cm or more if the piece big size. Only cut out the lace when you are sure you have drawn the lines correctly.

2

Before you start sewing, try ironing out an unnecessary piece of lace. It is recommended to iron lace terry towel or a special soft bedding so as not to smooth out the pattern. The lace is placed face down and then ironed with moisture through a damp cloth or ironing iron, which will protect your lace, including from dirt.

Needles and threads.

Take pieces of lace and check which threads and needle size are suitable for sewing it. If you are using a size 80 needle, thread the machine with cotton or polyester thread. Hold the lace along the front and back of the seam to keep it from bunching, but don't pull. Set the stitch length to 2.5mm and sew slowly. Change the stitch length, combination of needles and threads, thread tension until you achieve a suitable result. If the foot “gets stuck” in the lace, its sole can be wrapped in plastic or use another foot, for example for sewing denim or embroidery with satin stitch "roller". If you still need to string the lace onto the foot, sew through tissue paper or a transparent interfacing. If the lace gets caught in the needle clamp, use a straight stitch or place a strip of tissue paper under the fabric.

Traditional methods of seam and dart edging work well with matte, lined, or edged lace. These seams can be adjusted at the last fitting. Seams on thin lace are processed with double stitching or overlock. This type of stitching is very difficult to correct.

Connecting the lace parts along the marked lines.
Lay the pieces on top of each other, matching the lines of the same patterns. Baste the part along the seam line with a contrasting thread, make the necessary marks with a curly stitch. In this case there is no need to make marks.

3

Stitching the overlay seam.
Secure the bottom edge of the piece with small zigzag stitches. Check your machine's manual to determine which foot and stitch length you should set.

4

Seam processing.
After stitching the pattern, trim off the excess allowance on the top lace piece. On the wrong side, trim the seam allowance close to the stitches. The darts should be ground in the same way.

5

Lace applique.

Application placement.
Sometimes it is not possible to place the pattern pieces so that the scallops are where you want them to be, such as at the neckline or along the bottom edges of the sleeves or skirt. In this case, the edges are trimmed with stripes with scallops or appliques, for which lace braid with scallops is also quite suitable.

You can also cut scalloped strips from existing lace fabric or cut patterns from the inside of it. Place the lace strips on the edge you want to trim. For a more favorable effect, try to distribute lace patterns evenly: small patterns will look better on small details such as collars and cuffs, and patterns bigger size- on large parts, for example on a skirt.

Lace edge trim.
Apply the applique to a section of fabric so that a single piece is formed. If the part being processed has sharp curves, iron the applique into shape using steam or notch the applique so that it lies more evenly; pin and baste.

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To create the same scalloped hem as on our dress, cut a large triangle of scalloped lace to secure along the bottom of the front of the dress. Place the scalloped edge over the already sewn skirt front.

Sew by hand or machine stitch near the top edge of the lace. To decorate the rest of the bottom, cut out a scalloped strip following the design motif. Pin to the finished hem of the back panel of the skirt, placing the inner edge of the scallops along the entire bottom edge.

The lace motif from the back panel of the skirt should end so as to overlap the sides of the front appliqué; try to make sure that the motif is not interrupted along the entire edge if possible. Imperceptibly and firmly bend the straight edge of the scallops with your hands. Without grabbing the dress, connect the ends of the motif from the back panel of the skirt with the appliqué on the front panel of the skirt on your hands, imperceptibly and firmly.

To complete the top edge of a large applique on the front panel of the dress, place individual motifs cut from leftover lace to create a continuous beautiful drawing from lace. Sew the motifs onto the arms firmly and discreetly.

Cutting out the fabric from underneath the lace applique.
Sew the inside edge of the appliqué using a zigzag stitch, or sew over the edge on your arms. Cut the base fabric close to the seam to make the applique sheer.

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Lace applique on satin.
Pin the applique with the wrong side to the right side of the satin. Baste. Sew the applique along the edge and inside the pattern using small stitches by hand, trying to keep the lace and satin lying smoothly. You can stitch the applique to the edge using a narrow zigzag or straight stitches if it looks nice.

Pattern:

A short flared dress with a pleat at the back, made entirely of lace, is simply…

There is a pattern for a lace dress for a girl:

Pattern:

116, 122, 128, 134, 140

The dream of every young fairy - lace dress with decorative polo clasp made of rep and satin ribbons…

A real master class was made on the basis of this model.. But I changed the sewing technique; in my opinion, it is simpler and more versatile. We won’t need an overlocker; all the seams will be “packed” from the inside out, like in a couture product.

You will need:

- lace (in this master class, cotton lace fabric)
- silk cambric as lining
- lightning
- threads, needles, pins
- scissors
- water marker or water pencil for marking.

Since the lining is cambric (cotton with silk), you can use any lace, it will still suit the body natural fabric. Moreover, the choice of lace is now very diverse.

Step 1

Both lace and cambric need to be decatified - soaked for 20 minutes in hot water, then wrung out, dried and ironed from the inside out.

Step 2

In lace, the bottom is not processed, so you need to choose an edge that will go along the bottom of the dress and sleeves. If the lace already has scallops, then these scallops go along the bottom of the dress. But there is lace without scallops. Here you need to trim the edge according to the pattern and choose the most suitable option. I got three of them - I cut the edges on both sides, as well as the edge of the lace along the transverse side and chose the edge with flowers.

Step 3

Be sure to attach the pattern to your child and choose the optimal length; once cut, the dress cannot be shortened!

Cut out the details from lace with an allowance of 1.5 cm. Place the lace along the bottom of the pattern clearly along the figured edge.

Step 4

Without removing the pattern, place the details on the lining and cut it out so that the allowances on the neck, shoulders and armholes coincide with the lace allowances, but the vertical seams (side and middle back seam) are 1.5 cm larger than the lace. We do not allow allowance at the bottom!

We have one front piece with a fold and two back pieces. The sleeves have no lining.

Step 5

Break off the pattern, apply it to the lining parts and trace them along the contour with an aqua marker.

Turn the part over and also draw the outline of the part.

Step 6

Peel off the pattern, fold the bottom of the lining twice by 7-8mm and iron. Then baste and stitch the hem of each lining piece. Make sure that the hem of all parts is the same in width!

Step 7

Place the lining pieces on the wrong side of the lace, align along the bottom and baste the lining over the scallops at the bottom and along the side allowances. The lining on the sides protrudes 1.5 cm, the bottom of the lining is shorter than the scallops. We don’t baste the armholes and necklines yet!

Step 8

Sew the shoulder seams separately at the lining, separately at the lace, iron the allowances, trim to 1 cm. Now you can pin and baste the lining and lace details along the armholes and neckline. Trim mismatched sections - align the parts along the armholes and neckline.

Step 9

Pin and baste the front and back pieces along the side seams. At the bottom we combine the lining and the edges of the lace.

Sew the side seams of the dress. If the dress is adult and has darts, you need to baste them and sew them down before sewing the side seams. The darts are sewn together with the lining, so they become almost invisible from the face. Iron the waist darts to the center of the part, the chest ones down.

Step 10

Iron seam allowances.

Press the lining seam allowances onto the lace.

Fold the lining allowances over again and pin them onto the lace allowances.

Baste and topstitch the folded seams of the lining. It turns out that we edged the allowances using the lining allowances.

We bend the unedged edges of the lace and hem them at the corner. From the face they become invisible.

Step 11

Pin and baste the middle seam along the back.

Step 16

Pin the sleeves along the marks and sew them into the armholes. Try on the dress, check the fit of the sleeves.

Sew the sleeves in from the sleeve side, placing a strip of cambric under the stitching. You can edge it with soft mesh or chiffon, or something very thin that you have on hand.

Trim the seam allowances to 7-10 mm and edge them with this strip. My size is small, the armhole is small, I went around the seam allowances with a strip and hemmed it by hand, it’s more difficult to do this with a machine. In an adult dress, this operation can be done using a typewriter.

Iron the allowances in the upper part of the armhole into the sleeve; with them it will fit better.

Step 17

Fold the lining at an angle, with a scarf, exactly at 45 degrees, iron it and cut a strip 3 cm wide, stretch it with an iron, so it will be easier to sew it on.

Mark a line on the strip 1 cm from the fold.

Step 18

Prick and baste a strip from the front side along the neckline so that the sections of the strip lie on the sections of the neckline, and the marking line coincides with the seam markings on the neckline.

At the back, unscrew the seam allowances with the zipper, then roll them over the front side of the dress, and place the ends of the strip on top.

Sew the strip according to the markings, trim the allowances to 5 mm and notch them at the curves. Cut allowances at the corner of the zipper.

Turn out the corners at the ends of the zipper, lift the strip up and stitch it to the allowances.

Turn the strip over to the wrong side of the dress, baste the strip, iron it and hand-hemm it to the lining of the dress. In this case, there will be no stitching on the front side along the neckline.

: Master Class

This is our neat inside with packed seams.

And this dress is from the face.

This processing method is suitable for thick lace, under which we take a thin lining, and for thin lace, then it is better to take an opaque lining. The lined lace is stable and will not stretch when worn. Although this is only one way to process lace dresses, in my opinion, it is the most successful when starting to work with lace.

Happy New Year!

Svetlana Khatskevich

Svetlana graduated from a university with a degree in Technological Engineer clothing production" She has been teaching sewing technology for over 20 years. He is a senior teacher at Burda Academy. We know Svetlana from her work on the site since its inception. She generously shares her knowledge and infects with her love of sewing.

Sewing is creative, fun and educational. Welcome to this bright and interesting world!