Dresses of the 19th century were repeatedly subjected to numerous and dramatic changes throughout the century. Our article is a short digression into history. It will surely be of interest to fashionistas.
Clothing is a kind of mirror of the time, reflecting not only fashionable, but also cultural, political, philosophical and other currents of the era. The nineteenth century, like other eras, is distinguished by its aesthetic ideals of female beauty, which were expressed in clothes and accessories. Dresses of the 19th century are subject to numerous and dramatic changes throughout the century.
The 19th century is a period of struggle in different directions, a turning point in the consciousness and culture of man. This is the era of the formation of the principles of realism, the replacement of religious and mythological perception by utilitarian thinking. Of course, this change was reflected in the nature of women's dresses in the 19th century. So, the century begins with attractive antique, somewhat theatrical outfits and ends with pragmatic and comfortable ones.
At the beginning of the century, a real revolution takes place - the lush and grotesque Rococo style is replaced by a simple Empire style. Therefore, complex outfits are replaced by translucent models of a simple cut in the Greek style. An antique silhouette is in fashion, reminiscent of a slender column of a Greek temple. Dresses of the early 19th century are light outfits with a high waist and a ribbon under the bust, a deep neckline, puffed sleeves, a loose hem with pleats, and floor length. White, blue and red shades were in fashion, as well as a minimum of cosmetics, the rejection of wigs. Empire style dresses of the 19th century were worn with silk ballet shoes with long ribbons that were tied around the legs.
The years 1820-1825 became the period of the "Restoration", that is, a return to the previously existing forms. The waist of the women's dress still remains high, but gradually it is shackled into a corset. The skirt takes on the shape of a bell, a metal frame and lower starched skirts appear.
Since 1837, Queen Victoria, who has been very fond of beautiful things, has become a trendsetter. Romanticism comes into fashion, and with it - sublime, spiritualized and dreamy images. Dresses of the 19th century during this period acquire a special splendor and richness of decoration. The hourglass silhouette is in fashion, created by an elegant corset, a crinoline skirt and puffy wide sleeves on the frame.
By the 60s, dresses of the 19th century began to be decorated with voluminous flounces, festoons, teeth, and a patterned border. The hem gradually reaches a diameter of 2.5-3 meters. This period became known as the "second Rococo". The outfits were complemented by elegant hats and caps, gloves, umbrellas, laced shoes, shawls, boas, clutches and jewelry.
The 70-80s of the 19th century were marked by the appearance of the bustle - this is a device in the form of a small frame and a pillow, which the ladies put under the hem of the dress at the back to give the figure splendor. Slender, high silhouettes with a lush back in the buttocks were in fashion, so dresses with a bustle at the back were decorated with ruffles, folds and draperies.
At the end of the 19th century, there was an active development of clothing production, a wide range of fabrics and the first fashion houses appeared. Clothing partially loses its exclusivity, as it is replicated to the masses. Dresses with a slightly curved S-shaped silhouette come into fashion. The upper part is slightly tilted forward ("pigeon chest"), the stomach is tucked up, and the lower part is slightly behind. Such styles were created using a special corset and petticoat.
19th century dresses for different occasions
Women of the 19th century liked to change their outfits many times during the day.
- Morning - the ladies went down to breakfast in a simple dress made of smooth material. It was with long sleeves, discreet colors. At home, a simple wrap dress with pockets and a belt was worn.
- Ballroom - magnificent and luxurious outfits were sewn from expensive materials: taffeta, silk, poplin, satin, velvet and moire. The color could be matte, plain or shiny. The dress for balls was complemented with gloves, high-heeled shoes and fans.
- Wedding - performed in the Empire style. As a rule, they were discreet shades. They sewed a bridesmaid outfit with a high waist, a deep neckline and short sleeves. The satin dress was covered with a transparent fabric on top.
- Winter - they were worn at home and for walks. The outfit was made of woolen material, decorated with embroideries and fur. Basically, models were sewn from luxor, merino, barege, castor and dradedam.
- For provincials - women from the provinces wore less decorated and inexpensive outfits. Dresses were sewn from wool, linen or cotton.
- For trips in carriages - a dress designed for such purposes was free and practical. It was sewn shorter than usual so that a woman could easily get in and out of the carriage, and also so that it would not get dirty during the journey.
See what the outfits from the past looked like in the photo. How do you find the featured models?
Dresses of the 19th century. A photo
In clothing is now very popular. This does not mean that everyone around begins to wear floor-length sundresses, kokoshniks and bast shoes. It's just that some of the individual components of the outfit are reminiscent of the past. A lady dressed in Russian style does not look like a girl from fairy tales. She, on the contrary, emphasizes her deep knowledge of fashion. The most famous designers create collections with Khokhloma and Gzhel elements.
Colors
In clothes it is expressed in several colors, these are red, white, cream, less often blue and brown. They are combined with embroideries, ornaments, prints imitating folk crafts. Shades of black were considered mourning in Russia, so they were almost never used. Although now they can be applied in combination with a bright accent.
Outerwear
What can be Russian style is found even in this part of the wardrobe. Such a thing is made in the form of a cut. It is usually monochromatic with a bright element such as ornament or embroidery. Outerwear may be with fur on the collar or sleeves.
At the same time, hats with pompons and the like that are now fashionable cannot be worn on the head. The best option is a lace or pavlovo-posad shawl. Fur hats look good on older ladies. The length of the coat depends on the height of the girl. The lower it is, the shorter you need to choose a model.
If you do not like coats, but want to have a Russian style in clothes, then you can purchase a down jacket with an appropriate print. To him should pick up the national "earflaps". Dilute the fur coat with a pavlovo-posad shawl. They also wear fur vests. Previously, they were worn over a dress, but this will not work for cold weather. Still, the Russian winter is severe. Yves Saint Laurent introduced sheepskin coats into fashion. This is a great alternative for those who want to stay warm but don't have the money for a fur coat and find a coat boring.
Shoes
In Russia, in ancient times, noble nobles preferred exquisite, elegant shoes. Clothing in the Russian style must be complemented by red ankle boots. In winter, you can wear boots. For several years they were not used, they were considered rustic old-fashioned. But lately, designers have begun to create truly amazing things. So, ordinary gray felt boots are decorated with embroidery in the national style, have a print of nesting dolls. Some models even wear heels. Therefore, if you are seriously engaged in filling your wardrobe in the Russian style, buy fashionable felt boots. For spring, red rubber or leather boots will go well.
Accessories
Accessories are large fur mittens, hats, a muff, pavlovo-posad shawls. Women's clothing in the Russian style, creating a certain image, takes into account these, at first glance, insignificant details. First of all, you should take care of your hair. Braid the braid in any way. Good for those who have long hair, the rest can buy a false braid. Weave a red ribbon into your hair, put on a headband. Plain beads, bracelets and earrings will help to complete the look.
It is allowed to use glasses, although they have not been worn before. The bag should look harmonious with the whole outfit. So, only a plain handbag is suitable for a bright dress. This is the most advantageous option, because it can be combined with other clothes later. But a white clutch with Khokhloma is much more difficult to apply. It will suit only a white embroidered shirt and a dress in this style.
Style
A real modern one should be knee-length. A little higher is allowed, but just a little. If the neckline is open, then the hands are necessarily closed. Sleeves may be missing. In this case, the straps should be wide or made in the form of "flashlights". Well, if the long sleeves fit the arms only on the cuffs. Girls prefer traditional clothes, as if taken from their grandmother's chest. The Russian style of dress looks harmonious and interesting on them. The photo below is proof of that. But not everyone takes the risk of dressing like that. Many simply dilute the image with some element, not even paying attention to makeup and hair.
The fabric itself can be anything from satin to cotton. But in order to repeat the Russian image in the finest details, purchase things made from natural materials.
Makeup
Any image will look complete only in combination with makeup. Russian-style clothing is no exception. Lips should be emphasized with red, eyelashes should only be slightly tinted. Ideally, when a girl highlights her eyebrows, and generously blushes her cheeks. But remember: natural beauty is welcome. Therefore, it is irrelevant to achieve the appearance of a nesting doll. Cosmetics should be in moderation.
Who will go? Where to wear?
Russian style of dress will suit almost every girl. It just looks better on some. Naturally, this applies to the Slavic appearance. Tall stature, big eyes, full lips, long blond hair are welcome. Complementing such a bow with a modest character and diligence, we get a real “Russian beauty”. Even the weight of the lady is not important. Lush forms are characteristic of wealthy noblewomen, and peasant women were thin.
You can wear this style anywhere. It all depends on the style and color. So, a long plain dress, decorated with some element of the Old Russian province, is preferably only for the evening. A bright floral sundress will look good during the day. A tracksuit with flowers will go for the gym or street jogging. Russian style in clothes is in any case a great solution for a photo shoot. Choose the most different time of the year:
- For winter, tie a scarf on your head, put on felt boots, a sheepskin coat, a fur coat or a coat. Braid the braid and do the appropriate makeup. The best place for a photo shoot would be a village or a forest.
- In the summer, go to the same village or field, where there are more ears of corn. Put on a sundress, red beads. Feet must be bare. Be sure to braid the braid, put a wreath on your head.
In both seasons, you can sit at a table on the veranda next to the samovar and bagels. It would be nice to try on a kokoshnik, but due to the fact that it is richly decorated with beads, such an element is usually very expensive. Moreover, it cannot be used anywhere except for a photo shoot. It is worth choosing modest poses to give the impression of a girl from the past.
Bow variant
Russian clothing style can be expressed in different variations and used at any time of the year. The most popular models are created in a certain color scheme with the addition of one bright element. For example:
- A red dress that accentuates the waist with a Khokhloma belt.
- Sweatpants with Khokhloma stripes on the seams.
- White dress trimmed at the edges with a border in the Gzhel style.
- Dress with embroidery of national ornaments.
- Straight-cut sundress with wide straps.
- Often, fashionistas leave their choice on a bright skirt with a matching print and a plain top.
- A white loose shirt with a folk pattern plus a puffy skirt.
- Dress, blouse with lace on the collar.
These are a few examples of clothes that are most often found in stores.
If you have a dress in white or red, then you can easily give it a twist with a Russian accent. Cross stitching will help with this. Using the appropriate ornament, create some flowers in different shades or frame around the edges. So, a boring, monophonic thing will become much more interesting.
Russian style in clothes gives the girl femininity and sophistication. You can only have a Pavlovo-Posad shawl, a Khokhloma element or red boots, and the image will already give off notes of a beauty from the people. Such clothes will be appropriate for any event. It is not for nothing that the world catwalks often present clothes of this style. Although sometimes the images are too extravagant and retain only some elements of the Russian folk style.
The history of the wedding dress in Russia dates back more than a century. Previously, it was mandatory for the bride to have several wedding dresses. One could be intended for entertainment dances, the second for a celebration, the third for an engagement with a betrothed, and the fourth, of course, for the most important wedding.
It was interesting that brides from the nobility used the same dresses as the simplest girls from the people. Only fabrics could distinguish them. It also remarkably reflects the Russian history of the wedding dress, the need for self-tailoring. And again, it didn't matter who got married. Even the merchant's daughter had to sew it for herself with her own hands.
Everything changed when Peter 1 came to power. All the foundations of the wedding ceremony and the dress itself. All sections of the population of the village and the city were forced to follow the fashion of the king. Classical white dresses of the European sample also came into fashion.
Today, many girls choose this attire solely for their taste and style. Some brides become the epitome of grace in Italian dresses. For some, on the contrary, the traditions of the Russian people in the form of certain details of decor on a wedding dress have become dearer.
Peculiarities
The brightest features of the traditional Russian wedding dress are embroidery and various decorations. Russian notes in the design of a wedding dress, even the most modern one, will evoke the enthusiastic gaze of those present at the celebration.
Who will suit
There is no traditional concept of who suits wedding dresses. A wedding dress is a mandatory attribute of a wedding. This is a life changing event. She will forever remain both in memory and in photos and videos. Naturally, any bride wants to look irresistible on this day.
styles
Styles of wedding dresses are very diverse. Each in its own way has certain advantages and decor options. Don't think of a wedding dress as one of a kind. You can diversify any dress under the Russian version quite simply and naturally. Take, for example, the year that has recently entered the modern style. It is worth adding a traditional Russian cape to it and any bride will find in it a unique elegance.
Or combine such options as traditional French Provence framed by Slavic lace. No bride will go unnoticed in this image of elegance and romance.
Sundresses
Traditional Russian sundress. In the past, every girl was in him the standard of beauty and modesty. Modern fashion has not left our girls deprived of attention either. The image of a wedding dress is fraught with simplicity and charm of the Russian soul. Russian sundresses are especially suitable for fuller girls and women.
Fashion trends
The fashion of traditional Russian outfits sits tightly in every Russian soul. And even if not every girl is ready to try on an absolute copy of an old Russian dress for her wedding. But the minimal touch of charm introduced in the form of embroidery in ancient motifs or with the use of fur is increasingly being met at wedding celebrations.
Shoes
The most characteristic shoes for a traditional wedding dress should be relatively modest. Ballet flats will look good with such an outfit. Red sleepers are also quite appropriate with the color of modernity and Russian traditions.
Despite the recommendations, the main reason is again the figure and style of the wedding dress. With a certain image, rather high boots can also look quite extravagant. They will create their own exquisite style for the bride.
Accessories and flowers
Any wedding dress, whether modern with Slavic variants or traditional Russian, should be combined with the whole festive look as much as possible.
Various accessories and flowers will help our lovely brides in this. It is known that in the Russian tradition, white color on wedding dresses was not popular. In a modern addition to white wedding dresses, bright colors add color. Red shoes and a bright crown will be especially appropriate. This image is amazing and beautiful in its execution. It is also worth paying attention to the veil. In this case, in relation to the wedding dress, the complete opposite should be created. For example, the more modest and casual the bride's attire is, the brighter and more colorful the veil looks. Incredibly appropriate and unique can be an addition to a wedding dress and a fur cape. She will add grace to her owner and practicality.
Flowers are generally considered an ideal decor that can fit into absolutely any image. With their help, you can emphasize such properties as tenderness, and the most natural girlish modesty.
Hairstyle
A hairstyle at a wedding celebration probably means no less than the perfect wedding dress. If you follow the tradition of Russian weddings, then there are quite a few options. The classic Russian braid in a kokoshnik, although it is a kind of paraphernalia, but not every bride will be able to accept this option.
A rather attractive option for a wedding hairstyle can be a classic styling with large curls. A special sophistication can be achieved with a perfectly smooth hairstyle, combined with a decor made of stones or large earrings.
Especially stylish and practical will be a bride with a hairstyle of collected hair with woven flowers. Another noticeable trend among potential brides is growing hair. Long before the wedding, they begin to intensively conjure over them, care for and protect them with a vengeance. Indeed, such romance as long curls flowing over the shoulders can enchant not only the groom, but every man at a happy marriage ceremony.
Makeup
Any wedding is, first of all, beauty and the personification of the naturalness of the bride. It is the bride who becomes the main character. Do not neglect makeup, just as you should not be zealous. Slightly drawn eyebrows, a slight blush, slightly elongated eyelashes will help you create the right image. The main thing to remember here is that the best beauty is naturalness.
- Take your time when choosing a wedding dress. Evaluate your requirements and preferences, contact your friends and family. Maybe they will help create the right image;
- First of all, this is your lucky day. You are the queen of the ball and no one can stop you from realizing your cherished dream;
- Don't go overboard with accessories, but don't neglect them either. They will add color and originality to you.
A special decree of 1834 legalized the nature of the ceremonial women's costume. The color of velvet and the pattern of gold or silver embroidery were determined by the rank of the owner.
The upper green velvet dress with gold embroidery was supposed to be ladies of state and ladies-in-waiting; blue - to the mentors of the Grand Duchesses; a crimson dress - for the ladies-in-waiting of Her Majesty, for the ladies-in-waiting of the Grand Duchesses - light blue, for the chamberlains at the ladies-in-waiting - crimson. Ladies coming to the Court were given the right to have dresses of various colors and different sewing and with different sewing, except for patterns intended for court ladies.
Tailor the dress for everyone according to one pattern: very long fold-down sleeves with an open armhole, descending almost to the knees, accentuated by decor and a placket with buttons, as in a Russian sundress, a vertical line in the center of the front. All ladies, both courtiers and those who come to the Court, were supposed to have "< ...>a warrior or kokoshnik of an arbitrary color with a white veil, and for the girls a bandage, equally of an arbitrary color and also with a veil.
On March 25, 1834, in one of his letters to Moscow, the maid of honor of the Imperial Court, A.S. Sheremeteva wrote about the preparation of the ball in honor of the oath of the heir to the throne:
“We will all be in Russian dresses, that is, the ladies will be dressed in something like sundresses, but made of light material, and on their heads they will be rosy in the form of a kokoshnik. Young ladies (dancing) in garlands of white roses. The Empress will also be wearing a sundress herself. Later there will be a ball in the White Hall of the Winter Palace.”
At the end of the nineteenth and beginning of the twentieth century, the “Russian” dress was made of white satin with a velvet train covered with gold embroidery. At the first court ball of the winter season, the ladies paraded in court dresses. On the left side of the corsage was attached, according to their rank, either a cipher (a monogram described with diamonds - a distinctive sign of a maid of honor), or a “portrait” surrounded by diamonds (a high distinction that gave the title of a “portrait” lady).
Grand Duchesses appeared in their family jewels with rubies and sapphires. The color of the stones had to match the color of the dress: pearls and diamonds or rubies
and diamonds with pink materials, pearls and diamonds, or sapphires and diamonds with blue materials. Dresses and kokoshniks were decorated with precious stones, depending on the degree of wealth of the person. So, the wife of the leader of the nobility of one of the counties of the Petrograd province wore emeralds the size of a pigeon's egg in the form of buttons. Countesses Shuvalova, Vorontsova-Dashkova, Sheremeteva, Princess Kochubey and Princess
Yusupov.
Here is how the chronicler of the magazine World Illustration describes the reception at the Winter Palace in 1895 on the occasion of the introduction of court ladies to Empress Alexandra Feodorovna:
“The magnificent white Nikolaevsky hall was filled with ladies by half past one. Here, in all its brilliance, the beauty and richness of the original Russian costume showed up. The picturesqueness of the collection... begged for the artist's brush. What luxurious kokoshniks were here ... what rich sundresses made of velvet, silk, Indian fabrics, what rich brocade, fur trims, flowers, lace, what a variety of colors and shades from dark green, blue to delicate and light green, pink , lilac. Among this brilliance and richness of toilets, diamonds and precious stones and a significant mass of red armbands and red, gold-embroidered trains of the ladies-in-waiting of the large court - here and there the masters of ceremonies with wands walked around in their court uniforms sewn with gold.<. . .>».
It should be noted that the court dress of Russian ladies looked especially impressive at ceremonial receptions at foreign balls, where this kind of clothing was required.
The traditional custom required only from the English women a special headdress consisting of ostrich feathers. A distinctive detail of the court costume was a train attached to the shoulders with a ball gown. "< ...>Russian ladies, on the other hand, invariably attracted everyone's attention with the beauty and richness of our national dresses. A kokoshnik, a veil, a richly embroidered historical cut Russian dress with a train and a large number of precious stones could not help but impress,” recalled M.P. Bock (née Stolypina) about one of the court balls in Berlin at the beginning of the twentieth century.
The court ceremonial toilets made an indelible impression on contemporaries: “... By the splendor of uniforms, by the luxury of toilets, by the richness of liveries, by the splendor of decoration ... the spectacle is so magnificent that not a single courtyard in the world could compare with it,” - wrote the French ambassador to Russia M. Paleolog.
A number of state decrees of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, regulating the form of clothing, suggests that the importance attached to the costume as an exponent of the class and moral ideas of the nobility during this period was great. At the same time, the ball gown also had a picturesque function.
"Secular ceremonials of Russia in the 18th - early 20th centuries"
