In chilly weather, knitted wool socks will help keep your feet warm. You can make such a product yourself, having only two knitting needles on hand. There are several techniques for knitting such socks: with a seam, without stitching, from the toe. Each technique has its own distinctive features.
Necessary materials
Before you start work, prepare and necessary materials:
- Knitting needles. Select the number (thickness in mm) in accordance with the recommendations indicated on the yarn package.
- Knitting. Acrylic or wool blend yarn is ideal for creating socks. It is more durable, warm and holds its shape well.
- Knitting pattern, pen and paper for notes.
- Pin, markers.
- Hook, for lifting air loops from work.
How to knit socks on two knitting needles
There are many options for knitting socks with two knitting needles: with a seam, without a seam, with a toe, with a pattern, on circular knitting needles. They all have their own scheme of work, but before you start knitting, you need to take measurements and calculate the number of loops. Armed with a measuring tape, take the following measurements:
- foot circumference;
- sole length.
Write down your results on paper. From yarn, knit a sample of 20-30 loops (the more, the more accurate the calculation). Calculate the knitting density. To do this, divide the number of loops in the sample by its width in cm. The resulting number will be the knitting density, write it down. Take measurements of the sample after washing and drying it, because... Some yarns tend to shrink or stretch after WHT (wet heat treatment).
Seamless
To calculate the number of initial loops for your size, multiply the circumference of the foot in a wide area by the knitting density and divide by two. You need to divide by 2, because using this method you knit the back half of the sock up to the toe, then the second half, catching the edges of the finished part. Socks on 2 knitting needles without a seam are knitted according to the following pattern:
- Knitting a cuff.
- Heel shaping.
- Knitting a trace.
- Formation of the toe.
- Cast on the initial number of stitches on the knitting needles.
- Tie a half cuff of the desired width with any elastic band.
- The knitting edge should be a straight edge (braid). To do this, always remove the first loop without knitting, and make the last loop a purl (IP). This is necessary to ensure a neat connection in the future.
The next stage of work is the most difficult for beginners - the formation of the heel:
- Calculate the heel height using the following scheme: number of rows = number of stitches on the needle minus 2 (if the number is even) or minus 3 (if the number is odd).
- Knit all rows of heels using stockinette stitch.
- In the last row, start forming the heel. To do this, divide all the loops into 3 parts. If the remainder is 1 p. attach it to the middle part, if 2 - 1 to each of the side parts.
- Mark the number of stitches in the middle part with markers.
- Knit the side part in stockinette stitch without changes.
- Knit the first loops of the middle part, and connect the last one together with the adjacent loop from the second side part.
- Turn the work inside out. Remove the first loop unknitted. Repeat the action from step 9, knitting the IP.
- Continue adding side loops to the middle part (one at a time) until the original number of middle part loops remains.
There are no complicated techniques in knitting a half part of a lectern - it is knitted with straight fabric to the desired length:
- To knit the foot on the first row, pick up the edge stitches on one side of the middle of the heel all the way to the rib. Turn knitting.
- Purl all the stitches on the knitting needle if this is a purl row. Pick up the stitches on the other side of the middle heel from the edge stitches.
- In every second row along the edges, knit 2 stitches together with a knit stitch tilted to the left (if knit rows) or 2 purl stitches together (if purl rows).
- At the end of the work, the originally cast number of loops should remain.
- To calculate the length of the middle part of the footprint, measure the length of the heel cup and foot - they should be the same. Multiply the heel cup by 2. Subtract the resulting number from the total length of the foot.
- Knit the resulting number in cm stitch.
For the toe it is important to make smooth bevels. Make decreases in every second row before and after the edge stitches until 1/3 of the initial cast-on stitches remain on the knitting needles. Then the work goes in the direction from the toe to the cuff, knitting the upper half of the sock:
- Just as you shortened the toe in every second row, start adding loops along the edges from the broaches. To avoid holes in the place of the increase, knit the broach after twisting it once.
- Simultaneously with the increases, connect the fabrics by pulling a new loop from one piece of the edge of the finished fabric.
- Keep track of the number of loops. Add loops until you have the same number of loops in your work as for knitting a leopard.
- Knit the upper part of the sock in the same way - in a straight line, connecting the fabrics along the edge.
- Make sure that the number of loops is not increased. To ensure that the number of stitches always remains calculated, at the end of each row, connect 2 stitches together.
- In the area with the elastic, grab the edge by the wall facing the front side, knit it together with the last loop of the row.
- Knit the first stitch of each row so that the rib pattern continues.
- The second sock is knitted similarly.
Socks on two knitting needles with a seam
To calculate the number of loops, measure the circumference of the instep (from the heel along the bias to the instep) and the ankle at the bone (in the thinnest place). Add the resulting numbers and divide by two. The resulting number is the number of centimeters for which you need to calculate the loops using the knitting pattern. In the example, socks on two knitting needles with a seam are knitted from 50 loops (48 main + 2 edge):
- Tie an elastic band 2*2 5–6 cm long.
- Then go to stockinette stitch and knit 7-8 cm.
- For the heel, divide the number of loops (excluding edge loops) into 4 parts. You will get exactly 12 stitches each. The heel will be formed on the two middle parts.
- Knit three sections of stockinette stitch (48 stitches), turn the work.
- Knit 24 stitches (two middle parts), turn the work over.
- Make short rows, knitting 12 and 11 (10, 9, 8) stitches in each subsequent row until only 8 stitches remain in the work.
- Start increasing the number of loops by knitting the loop left earlier in each row.
- To avoid holes, put it on left knitting needle side loop and knit it together with the next knit stitch (KL).
- Turn knitting. Remove the first loop.
- Then purl 8. Pick up the side stitch and knit together with the other purl stitch.
- Continue until all loops are worked.
- Next, knit in stockinette stitch until the length of the sock reaches the middle thumb.
- For the toe, divide the knitting into 4 parts (12+12+12+12).
- Start making reductions. In each even row, knit 3 and 2 loops from the end of the first and third parts together.
- Knit 2 and 3 loops of the second and fourth parts together with a broach.
- When only half of the stitches remain, make such decreases in each row until there are only 6 stitches in the work.
- Pull them together with thread, sew the product
Knitting from the toe
Some unusual way suitable for those for needlewomen who have a limited number of threads to work with, so that the length of the cuff can be adjusted in accordance with the remaining yarn. The calculation of loops is done in the same way as described above. Socks are knitted with two knitting needles from the toe like this:
- Cast on half of the required quantity loops by adding an additional slippery thread to the main yarn.
- The first row is all knit stitches (KL), the last loop is purl stitch (IP).
- The second row is all purl, do not knit the last one. Turn the job around.
- Continue knitting in partial rows until 1/4–1/3 of all stitches remain unknitted on each side of the knitting needles.
- In each subsequent row, knit all the remaining loops, lifting the broach from the previous row in front of them.
- After lifting, you will get a toe.
- Remove extra thread. On two knitting needles you will get the required number of loops.
- Transfer the loops from two knitting needles to one, simultaneously knitting them like this: knit 1 st from the front knitting needle, remove the loop from the back knitting needle without knitting.
- Purl the very last stitch.
- At the next stage, remove the first loop, knit the loops of the front fabric, and remove the loops of the back fabric without knitting. The last loop in the work is purl.
- Continue knitting the entire length of the foot, minus the length of the heel. At the stage of knitting the foot, you need to be extremely careful and not get confused where to knit the loop and where it needs to be removed unknitted, otherwise the two halves of the sock will connect at the point of error, it will become unsuitable for wear. The result should be a “pipe”.
- Knit the heel of the sock in the same way as the toe.
- After knitting the heel, 1 part of the loops will be on the knitting needle, the second - on the pin.
- Continue knitting the boot to the elastic in the same way as the track.
- Knit a 2*2 rib, purling the last stitch in the work.
- Having knitted the desired length of elastic, close the loops using an elastic method or a needle.
With a braid in front
You can knit socks with a braid using any of the above master classes. The pattern should start from the top of the foot. The braid can be knitted according to any pattern you like, for example this:
- For the braid pattern, remove 2 loops onto an additional knitting needle and leave before work.
- Then knit 2 LPs, return the removed loops to the left knitting needle.
- Knit them.
- Remove the next 2 loops and leave them at work.
- Knit 2 stitches, return the removed loops.
- Knit them.
Video
By following the instructions given in the article, you can quickly knit socks for a baby aged 6-12 months. The length of the sole of the product is approximately 10 centimeters. These socks are made on two knitting needles in a seamless manner, that is, it will not need to be sewn, at the end of the work you will receive a solid product.
For knitting we use purified wool blend yarn (175 meters in 50 grams) and thin knitting needles (No. 2.5).
We start knitting from the back of the cuff. We cast on 20 stitches and work a 1 x 1 ribbed stitch over 16 rows.
We switch to knitting with stockinette stitch, we also perform 16 rows with this pattern.
We begin to form the heel. We knit the next front row as follows: edge, 2 stitches together, knit 14 stitches, 2 stitches together, front edge. There are 18 stitches left on the knitting needles. We perform the purl row with purl stitches. In the next front rows we again make the same decreases (2 front stitches together) after the first and before the last edge stitch. In this way we knit 10 rows until there are 10 stitches left on the knitting needle.
Now we perform the second part of the heel part. Let's start making additions. To do this, at the beginning of the row, we pick up a loop from the side edge (edge) and knit it with the front one. Then we knit all the stitches (10 pcs.) on the knitting needle. At the end of the row, after the last loop, we pick up a loop from the side edge and knit it with the front one. There are 12 loops on the knitting needles. We make additions only in the front rows. We make increases over 10 rows until there are 20 stitches on the knitting needles again. A heel will form on the canvas.
We knit the sole in stockinette stitch for 18 rows.
We perform the part of the toe where the toes will be located according to the same principle as the heel. First, decrease to 10 loops, and after increase to 20 loops.
We knit the rise of the toe using stockinette stitch, while making connections between this part of the product and the sole part. We do this as described below. With the left knitting needle we pick up the loop of the side edge of the sole part (edge) and knit it together with the edge part of the instep. Next we knit 18 stitches. One loop remains on the knitting needles. We string it onto a knitting needle and, at the same time, pick up a loop from the side edge of the sole part and knit these two loops together. There are 20 loops on the needles. We make such connections in each front row. A neat scar is formed in the area of the side edges.
The knitting pattern for the instep wedge is universal!
3, 5, 7 row: at the end of the row in front of the edge loop we knit 2 loops together with the front one tilted to the left;
4, 6, 8 row: at the end of the row in front of the edge loop we knit 2 loops together purlwise.
Thus, we reduced the loops on the instep wedge, knitting 2 loops together at the end of each row and the estimated number of loops remained on the knitting needle - 25.
Note: if you have a high arch, you can knit 2 additional rows without decreases before two rows with decreases. This will give you more freedom in the arch of your foot. At the same time, the height of the rise can be adjusted: you can knit 2 additional rows only before the first decreases, before the first and second, or before all three.
Knitting pattern for a wedge for a high instep
1st row: raise the loops of the left side from the edge loops (11 loops). You can pick up the edge loops from both walls or from one wall facing the front side.
Row 2: knit with purl stitches. Raise the loops (11 loops) on the right side of the heel.
3, 7, 11 row: facial loops;
4, 8, 12 row: purl loops;
5, 9, 13 row: at the end of the row in front of the edge loop we knit 2 loops together with the front one tilted to the left;
6, 10, 14 row: at the end of the row in front of the edge loop we knit 2 loops together purlwise.
We continue to knit the middle lower part of the sock up to the toe. You can try on a sock and knit to the end of the little toe. It can be determined by calculation: the toe is approximately equal to the length of the heel cup. We subtract from the length of the foot (24) the length of the toe and the length of the cup (5 + 5 = 10), we find that the middle part is 14 cm or 44 rows.
Next we knit the toe. We decrease the loops in the same way as on the instep wedge, knitting 2 loops together in front of the edge loops at the end of each row. When 1/3 of the loops (9) remain on the knitting needle, lift the loops from the edge loops. In front rows we knit a front loop from the edge row, and in purl rows we knit a purl stitch. We pick up the wall of the edge loop facing the wrong side. We do not remove the first loop of the row, as usual, but knit the knit stitch in the front rows and the purl stitch in the purl rows. This first loop should be knitted tighter.
So we add loops until the estimated number of loops (25) remains on the knitting needle.
We also knit the upper middle part of the sock, lifting the loops from the edge loops, but so that the number of loops remains calculated, at the end of each row we decrease the loops in the same way as before, knitting 2 loops together at the end of each row.
Important : the corner loop should be knitted on both walls so that the hole does not turn out to be too large.
On the elastic section we knit the edge loops differently. Now we pick up the wall of the edge loop facing the front side and we will knit the edge loop together with the last loop of the row.
We knit the first loop of the row so that the elastic pattern continues - with a purl loop. We transfer the last loop of the row to the right knitting needle, pick up the edge loop with the left knitting needle and return the last loop of the row to the left knitting needle. We knit 2 loops together in accordance with the elastic pattern: knit or purl. Thus, we reduce the extra loop and the calculated number of loops always remains on the knitting needle. The second sock is knitted in the same way.
Spring has come, but the machinations of winter are still felt. The weather is in no hurry to please with sunny warm days, and socks that will warm you remain very relevant. A simple option will be offered to your attention knitting socks on two needles, for those who are uncomfortable, don’t like it or have not yet mastered knitting on five.
For these socks, we took the already beloved Pekhorka Children’s yarn, a new product in bright green (“exotic”) and beige. This is 100% acrylic, the yarn was developed for children's skin and therefore does not prick, has large volume thread, with a weight of 50 g/200 m, fits well in the canvas. Two knitting needles were taken from a set for knitting socks in 5 pieces No. 2.5.
We will knit socks in size 39, foot length 25 cm.
Let's start with calculations, first we knit a sample of 20 loops with stockinette stitch - this is when the front loops are knitted on the front side, and the purl ones on the back side.
Our sample length is 7.5 cm. For a size 39 foot, you need a circumference of at least 22 cm, which means 7.5 * 3 = 22.5 is suitable. For a full circle you need 20 * 3 = 60 loops, but we only take half.
1 row. Cast on 30 stitches on two knitting needles.
2nd row. To begin, we will knit an elastic band, 1*1, that is, 1 knit loop (knit stitch) and another purl loop (purl stitch). We must remember that when we knit on two needles, we always remove the first loop without knitting, this then gives an even side edge to the product.
3 – 8 rows. 30 loops with elastic band.
9 – 10 rows. 30 p. with an elastic band, but replace the green one with a beige thread.
11 – 12 rows. 30 sts with elastic band. Green thread.
13 – 14 rows. 30 sts with elastic band. Beige stripe.
15 – 16 rows. 30 p. Green stripe.
17 – 18 rows. 30 p. Beige stripe.
19 – 20 rows. 30 p. Here we will cut the beige thread and continue with the green one.
20 – 26 rows. 30 p. Elastic band, green thread.
If you want, you can make the elastic band longer.
27 row. 30 persons. n. We switch to stockinette stitch, and then we will knit with it.
28 row. 30 p. P.
29 row. The first loop is removed (sn. p.), 28 persons. p., 1 rest. (leave the loop on the knitting needle without knitting).
Row 30 1 rest (left in the previous row), 1 dc. p., 27 p.
p., 1 rest.
View at the end of the row.
31 row. 1 rest., 1 dn. p., 26 persons. p., 2 rest. P.
32 row. 2 rest., 1 dn. p., 25 p. p., 2 rest. P..
33 row. 2 rest., 1 dn. p., 24 persons. p., 3 rest. P
34 row. 3 rest., 1 dn. p., 23 p. p., 3 rest. P.
Row 35 3 rest., 1 dn. p., 22 persons. p., 4 rest. P.
36 row. 4 rest., 1 dn. p., 21 p. p., 4 rest. P.
37 row. 4 rest., 1 dn. p., 20 persons. p., 5 rest. P.
38 row. 5 rest., 1 dn. p., 19 p. p., 5 rest. P.
39 row. 5 rest., 1 dn. p., 18 persons. p., 6 rest. P.
40 row. 6 rest., 1 chain stitch, 17 purl stitches, 6 remaining stitches.
41 row. 6 rest., 1 dn. p., 16 persons. p., 7 rest. P.
42 row. 7 rest., 1 sp. p., 15 p. p., 7 rest. P.
43 row. 7 rest., 1 sp. p., 14 persons. p., 8 rest. P.
44 row. 8 rest., 1 sp. p., 13 p. p., 8 rest. P.
45 row. 8 rest., 1 sp. p., 12 persons. p., 9 rest. P..
46 row. 9 rest., 1 sp. p., 11 p. p., 9 rest. P
47 row. From this row we begin to increase the number of loops to be knitted, at the expense of the ones left, knitting them at the end of the row, one in each row.
9 rest., 1 sp. p., 12 persons. p., 8 rest. P.
48 row. 8 rest., 1 sp. p., 13 p. p., 8 rest. P.
49 row. 8 rest., 1 sp. p., 14 persons. p., 7 rest. P.
50 row. 7 rest., 1 sp. p., 15 p. p., 7 rest. P.
51 row. 7 rest., 1 sp. p., 16 persons. p., 6 rest. P.
52 row. 6 rest., 1 dn. p., 17 p. p., 6 rest. P.
53 row. 6 rest., 1 dn. p., 18 persons. p., 5 rest. P.
54 row. 5 rest., 1 dn. p., 19 p. p., 5 rest. P.
55 row. 5 rest., 1 dn. p., 20 persons. p., 4 rest. P. 56 row. 4 cells, 1
n. p., 21 p. p., 4 rest. P.
57 row. 4 rest., 1 dn. p., 22 persons. p., 3 rest. P.
58 row. 3 rest., 1 dn. p., 23 p. p., 3 rest. P.
59 row. 3 rest., 1 dn. p., 24 persons. p., 2 rest. P.
60 row. 2 rest., 1 dn. p., 25 p. p., 2 rest. P.
61 rows. 2 rest., 1 dn. p., 26 persons. p., 1 rest. P.
62 row. 1 rest., 1 dn. p., 27 p. p., 1 rest. P..
63 row. 1 rest., 1 dn. p., 28 persons. P
64 row. 1 dn. p., 29 p. p. The heel is completed.
Front view.
The depth of the heel was 5 cm, taking into account that the toe will also be 5 cm, we need to knit 15 cm with stockinette stitch.
65 – 120th row 30 p.
161 rows. We take hold of the upper part of the toe, lifting the foot. We will knit in stripes in two rows, alternating a beige stripe with a green one. The task that now faces is the connection of the two parts of the sock, the lower (foot) and the upper (instep). We will connect by knitting the side loops of both parts together.
On the foot, with a free knitting needle, we hook the first one closest to the knitting needle, on which the loops are located, a loop.
Then on the same (right knitting needle) we remove the first loop from the left knitting needle.
162 row. We hook 1 loop from the foot.
Slip the first stitch from the left to the right needle.
And we knit 28 purls. p., we will knit the last two together (those that were removed in the previous row).
163 – 220 rows. We continue knitting: remove loops on the right knitting needle, one from the bottom and one from the top part, knit 28 loops according to the side (front or back), and knit the last two together.
221 – 222 rows. Two green rows in stockinette stitch. Let's cut the beige thread.
223 – 228 rows. We begin to knit an elastic band with green thread, continuing to connect the front and back parts of the sock.
229 – 230 rows. Beige stripe.
231 – 232 rows. Green stripe.
233 – 234 rows. Beige stripe.
235 – 236 rows. Green stripe.
237 – 238 rows. Beige stripe.
239 – 245 rows. Green stripe.
We knit the first two loops together into one.
Return this loop to the left needle.
Again we knit the first two loops together.
We return to the left knitting needle again and so on until the end, until there is only one left.
Cut the thread, fasten and hide the end.
We knit the second sock in the same way. The socks are ready, you can try them on.
This method of knitting socks is suitable for everyone who knows how to knitting knit and purl loops.
Dina Kiseleva specially for the site Handicraft Lessons.
As my mother says, easier way for knitting socks NO.
She told me over the phone how to knit these socks on two knitting needles. I tried it and liked it. (For many people, seams are a no-no, so a warning: there is 1 seam in the socks).
About the number of loops for 1 sock, the thickness of the knitting needles and threads: I knit socks from leftover yarn, so each time I select the number of loops (42-50 loops), this is not very convenient, but this method allows you to knit socks from any yarn. I just knit a sock halfway, try it on and unravel it if it’s too tight.
I will tell general principle, having understood which, you will be able to knit socks with any pattern, any design, any length.
First knitted on two needles elastic band (full width) holding the sock on the foot, then part of the sock is knitted to the heel (by increasing the number of rows, you can knit high socks), then the heel and then the sock are knitted along the length of the leg.
The left and right sock are knitted in a mirror pattern. One has the heel on the right, the other on the left, when sewing, the side seam is obtained from the inside of the leg.
If part 2 of the sock (in the picture) is not knitted, and the elastic is made small, then the socks will turn out like slippers - low.
The main thing is to understand how to knit the heel, the rest can be knitted in different ways.
- STEP 1: elastic band (marked in the picture above).
Cast on 48 stitches on knitting needles and knit with a 2 X 2 rib or any other. (It all depends on your threads, knitting needles, knitting style and the thickness of your legs.
Alternatively, you can knit an elastic band, quickly baste it with threads and try it on to check the width of the future sock and whether it will fit your foot.
- STEP 2: toe height (from elastic to heel)
Front stitch - purl rows: purl loops. facial rows - facial rows.
You can also knit with any other pattern. Height - as you like.
I usually don't knit this part because... I don't like high socks.
- STEP 3: cap heel
We knit the first 21 stitches on one sock and the last 21 stitches on the second sock for 14 rows. In each row we remove 1 loop, and purl the last one.
It doesn’t matter whether you cast 42 or 50 loops, we knit exactly 21 loops for the future heel. And so 14 rows.
You can gather the remaining loops on a pin or knit them on a knitting needle - just don’t touch them while you knit the heel. They won't interfere. 
Knitted 14 rows (photo above). The second sock will look like a mirror.
And now the most difficult part is knitting the bulky part of the heel. It will look like a cap.
15 row of heel: from 21 loops, knit 13 loops, and 14 and 15 loops together.
There should be 6 stitches left on the knitting needle at the end. We don't knit them.
Turn the knitting over to the purl row:
Row 16: 6 unknitted loops remain on the knitting needle, knit further. We do not knit the last six loops again and leave them on the knitting needle, and before them 2 together (!!!)
If you are surprised, see the photo below. With this knitting, the heel will become voluminous. Nothing complicated - at the end and beginning of knitting there are 6 unknitted loops.
We always remove the first loop of the row
Row 17: knit the last stitch of the row with 1 of the “remaining 6” (5 left undone)
Row 18: knit the last stitch of the row with 1 of the “remaining 6” (5 left undone)
Row 19: knit the last stitch of the row with 1 of the “remaining 5” (4 left undone)
Row 20: knit the last stitch of the row with 1 of the “remaining 5” (4 left undone)
Row 21: knit the last stitch of the row with 1 of the “remaining 4” (3 left undone)
Row 22: knit the last stitch of the row with 1 of the “remaining 4” (3 left undone)
Row 23: knit the last stitch of the row with 1 of the “remaining 3” (2 left undone)
Row 24: knit the last stitch of the row with 1 of the “remaining 3” (2 left undone)
Row 25: knit the last stitch of the row with 1 of the “remaining 2” (1 left undone)
Row 26: knit the last stitch of the row with 1 of the “remaining 2” (1 left undone)
Row 27: knit the last stitch of the row with 1 of the “remaining 1” (0 left undone)
Row 28: knit the last stitch of the row with 1 of the “remaining 1” (0 left undone)
Hurray, the heel has become voluminous: 
And so, only 7 loops remained on the knitting needle, the heel began to resemble a cap in shape.
Next, pull out 7 loops on each side from the “empty sides” and continue knitting the sock to the toes using stockinette stitch. It’s easier to pull out loops with a crochet hook: 
P.S. Since in one sock 21 stitches are taken at the beginning of the row, and in the other sock at the end, the socks may differ by 1 row in height in some places near the heel. It is unnoticeable when worn.
- STEP 4: Toe length (from heel to tip)
Knit the row from 21 stitches of the already knitted heel to the end along with those loops that we left unknitted on the knitting needle (or on a pin).
Knit in stockinette stitch or any pattern, sometimes decreasing stitches (if your toe is wide) to the end of the little finger. 
Complete the sock by placing the remaining stitches on 5 needles and decreasing 5 times on each row. Or knit a sock on 2 knitting needles, decreasing 5 times in each row. Tighten the remaining few loops with thread and sew a sock. 
