According to agrotechnical standards, when growing ornamental herbaceous perennials and shrubs, it is necessary to carry out an annual pruning procedure.
Not all gardeners understand the importance of this operation. For those who do pruning incorrectly or refuse it altogether, the plants do not develop to their full potential, bloom poorly, and have a less than decorative appearance.
The pruning procedure has various purposes:
- sanitary pruning- this is the removal of weak, damaged and diseased branches and shoots;
- cosmetic pruning- removing or shortening healthy but overgrown branches and shoots to give the plant an attractive appearance; trimming hedges; curly pruning of bushes;
- regulating pruning- directing the plant’s energy in the right direction: stimulating growth, regulating flowering time, increasing bushiness;
- autumn pruning- preparing the plant for winter: preventing plants from rotting under cover, eliminating diseases and pests that have accumulated on the shoots.
Of course for different types In plants, the pruning procedure is important to varying degrees.
For example, when proper care For roses, clematis, sunflowers, it is necessary, as it stimulates growth and regulates flowering. And many ornamental shrubs, for example, barberry, camellia, magnolia, viburnum, do not need pruning.
In addition, the recommended timing and technique for pruning can vary significantly depending on climatic zones and plant species. But when caring for any plants, you should not forget to remove diseased and damaged branches and shoots, as well as perform cosmetic pruning.
Techniques for pruning ornamental plants, shearing and thinning
There are two types of pruning of ornamental plants: shearing and thinning.- A haircut. Trimming involves removing the ends of branches where growth points are located. This stimulates the development of buds located below the cut and increases the density of the bush. By regularly removing the ends of the branches, the bush becomes more lush.
- Thinning. Thinning means removing an entire branch down to the base of the shoot. At the same time, the remaining branches receive more nutrients. When entire branches are removed before the main shoot, the bush becomes taller and more spreading. The thinning technique is also used for sanitary pruning.
Depending on the length of the branches being cut pruning can be strong and light. This characteristic is indicated in the agrotechnical description for each plant type. You need to be creative in determining the length of the branch to cut.
To improve the quality of flowering, heavy pruning is usually used. It is also used in the fall for some herbaceous perennials whose stems do not survive winter. IN for cosmetic purposes Light pruning is usually used. 
What exactly to trim
What you cut matters a lot: old branches or young shoots of the current year. For plants in which flowers form on young shoots (usually after the end of May), heavy pruning of old branches is usually used, in place of which new powerful shoots are formed that will bloom in the same year. Such plants include some varieties of clematis, fuchsia, and cinquefoil.For plants that bloom on old areas of shoots (these are, as a rule, early flowering plants), all branches that had flowers this year are cut off. In their place, new shoots are formed that will bloom on next year.
When to prune
Another very important characteristic pruning - the time of its implementation. Thus, deciduous shrubs that bloom later are pruned in early spring, without waiting for growth to begin. Some plants: herbaceous perennials and vines that overwinter under cover, for example, escallonia, honeysuckle, clematis, are pruned in the fall.Despite the fact that pruning technology varies for individual plant species, there are also general rules.
The cuts should be smooth, the branch at the cut site should not be split.
This is achieved using a sharp tool - a pruning shear or a garden knife. The cut should be slightly inclined, at a distance of about five millimeters from the last remaining bud. 
Pinching, one of the types of plant trimming
One type of haircut is pinching- removing growing points with a small part of the young stem using your fingertips. Pinching is used to increase the bushiness of small plants. Particular attention should be paid to pruning hedges, which usually represent a continuous row of bushes, where the individuality of each plant is lost.To carry out this operation, a special tool is required - garden shears or trimmer. It is recommended to trim the hedge so that its top is narrower than the base. IN otherwise its lower part may not have enough light and the plants will lose their foliage.
Let us trace the stages of hedge formation from the moment of its planting. In order for the hedge to grow thick, it is necessary to stimulate the growth of shoots at the base; for this, after planting the plants, severe pruning is done. Next summer, even if the hedge has not reached the desired height, it is still trimmed a little.
Purpose of pruning for the second year- increasing the density of branches and giving the hedge desired shape before the required height is reached. After the hedge has grown sufficiently, from May to the end of August it is trimmed whenever it loses its neat appearance. appearance. Perhaps you only need one haircut per season, or maybe you will have to do this regularly.
How to prepare ornamental plants for winter
Some plants need to be prepared for winter in a special way. Herbaceous perennials, in which the above-ground part dies off annually, are pruned when the leaves begin to dry out or are caught by frost. Earlier pruning is undesirable, since in the fall there is an outflow of nutrients from the leaves to the roots.Other plants, e.g. phlox, doronicum, perennial aster, astilbe, aquilegia, pyrethrum, peony, cornflower, brunera cut at soil level, and irises - at a height of 8-10 cm.
Delphinium and other plants Having a hollow stem, they are cut at a distance of 25-30 cm from the ground, thus preventing the penetration of water into the rhizome.
Plants overwintering under cover, as a rule, are pruned in preparation for it. At the same time, sanitary pruning is carried out, and shoots that interfere with proper shelter of the plant are shortened.
In small-flowered species belonging to herbaceous perennials, on the eve of winter, the above-ground part dies off entirely, and in the spring the shoots renew and bloom all summer. Such plants must be pruned at soil level in late autumn. Small-flowered clematis, which are classified as shrub vines, usually do not require pruning. You just need to trim the bushes to preserve their decorative appearance, thin out overgrown plantings and remove weak and diseased shoots in preparation for winter.
In many large-flowered varieties and forms, belonging to the Jacqueman, Rekt and Vititsella groups, flowering occurs on annual shoots of the current year. It is advisable to prune such plants in late autumn at soil level or at a distance of 10-15 cm.
To extend the flowering period, in clematis of these groups, several healthy shoots from last year can be left without pruning. Large-flowered varieties that bloom on last year's shoots require light pruning of the strongest and healthiest shoots and removal of underdeveloped and diseased ones. This operation is recommended to be carried out in the fall.
Smirnov S. S. Kuprienko M. E. 
Looking at the autumn flower beds, I can’t even believe that winter is about to come. The flower growers of the Soligorsk Flora club, Zinaida Romanovich and Valentina Ermalitskaya, suggested how to help flowers survive the winter.
Which plants should you prune for the winter and which should not?
“I’ve already put the garden in order, but there are still some worries in the flower garden.” Please tell me which flowers need to be pruned for the winter and which ones should not. I have Asiatic lilies, irises, heucheras, phlox, peonies, and monarda.
Elena Sergeeva. Minsk.
Before winter, you should definitely trim peonies, advises Zinaida Romanovich. - If you don’t trim them, then in the spring the soaked stems can no longer be trimmed with either pruning shears or a knife. And if you pull, you can pull out new shoots.
In addition, the lily also needs to be trimmed. Otherwise, water will flow through the stem tube to the bulb. Some people don’t prune astilbe, but I do it without fail. Because it needs to be sprinkled with a little earth on top so that the fresh buds that will grow upward do not freeze. Just don’t confuse powdering with hilling. To sprinkle means to rake the earth from all sides. Moreover, there is no need to remove it in the spring.
It is also necessary to trim irises, but not low, you should leave 10 centimeters. I usually measure all this with my own hand: I cut the irises into the palm of my hand. Some people screw in the stems of irises. This can be done in the summer, immediately after flowering. But in the fall, irises still need to be pruned. Phloxes, which after flowering we only cut off the tops of, now need to be cut as low as possible.
If desired, you can trim the monarda. Its stem is fragile and can be broken even in the spring. If you don’t cut it, the birds will find excellent food for themselves in the form of the seeds of this plant.
But hosta, heuchera and brunnera should not be pruned under any circumstances. The hosta will cover itself for the winter. Also, if a hosta is pruned, it will become very weak. Heuchera, surprisingly, already comes out with green leaves in early spring. It looks very funny. Therefore, considering that heuchera leaves are laid in winter, I do not recommend cutting it. But it wouldn’t hurt to insulate the plant, for example, by mulching under the leaves with mown grass or dry peat. Brunners should also be insulated in this way.
Marigolds will warm any flower in winter
- Please advise what can be used as a covering material for flowers. The fact is that many experts advise using spruce paws or leaves as a covering material. But we don’t have a forest nearby, and it’s somehow risky to use leaves from fruit trees. How else can you cover flowers for the winter?
Irina. Logoisk.
I completely agree with you: it is sometimes difficult for us, summer residents, to find decent covering material for plants that winter on the site,” notes Zinaida Vasilievna. - I'll start with a little hint. Now you need to make an effort so that you have covering material for the next season. To do this, you need to stock up on marigold seeds. This is an exceptional covering material! In mid-October, marigolds are just beginning to bloom and it is important to collect as many seeds as possible from them. Pluck the flower heads and place them first on paper or a cloth. But next year be sure to plant marigolds in as many quantities as possible. You can plant them along the fence, along the perimeter of the site, or even outside the site, if possible.
The fact is that marigolds have bactericidal properties. The plant has abundant stems and many leaves. Have no doubt, with marigolds you will cover everything you can for the winter: from garlic to flowers that need to be covered for the winter - peony, irises, lily. If you cover the planting with flowers, a good air cushion will be formed. In addition, you can also sprinkle leaves on top - it turns out great.
By the way, marigolds come from Mexico. Therefore, if you leave the seeds in the ground, you won’t get flowers next year: they won’t tolerate sub-zero temperatures. You should definitely take the seeds to the city and store them at room temperature.
Another little tip: do not store the seeds in a plastic bag, it is better to wrap the seeds in a paper bag or place them in a fabric bag.
You can also use zinnia and calendula stems as covering material. These are the main three flowers, which are both a flower and a beautiful covering material available to us.
Therefore, if you have marigolds or calendula, and summer residents usually have plenty of them, then pull them out right by the roots and cover your plants.
How does a water lily winter?
- For the first time this year I planted a nymph in the pond ( water lily), but winter is coming, and I don’t know what to do with it. Tell me, how does this flower survive the winter?
Irina. Minsk.
It all depends on what body of water your nymph lives in,” said Valentina Alekseevna. - If in an artificial one, like mine, for example, then you will have to move this amazing beautiful flower to the house. If it is not possible to leave flowers in the house for the winter, then you can place them in the basement or on the balcony. By the way, in the basement, where it is quite dark, the leaves of the nymph may become a little moldy. But this should not bother you, since damaged leaves are simply removed, and in the spring, when the nymph gets back into the reservoir, new ones easily grow.
First, prepare the containers in which the flowers will winter. Calculate so that the container in which the nymphea grows easily fits into the container for wintering. Then prepare water, preferably not tap water. I take from the well. Now all that remains is to get the nymphs out of the pond, put them in containers and fill them with water. And in April, when the sun is already hot, you can safely lower the nymphs back into the reservoir.
But if the reservoir is natural and deeper than a meter, then your nymph will not cause you any trouble and will calmly overwinter under the ice.
Vegetable work in the garden is carried out practically all year round, with the exception of just a few months when the earth rests. The greatest activity, of course, occurs in the spring, when the earth needs to be awakened after winter and prepared for the future harvest, and autumn period, in which it is necessary to carry out maximum work to ensure proper rest of the soil. In order for the harvest to always be large and tasty, and the soil resources not to be exhausted in one year, it is important to know the rules of tillage and consistent gardening work.
All autumn work can be divided into three main groups: caring for trees and shrubs; caring for the land, which will rest in winter; sowing wintering crops and plants that will appear from under the melting snow in early spring.
Shrubs and trees
When all the fruits and berries have been collected, trees and shrubs need to trim off excess branches. All diseased and dried shoots must be removed, and their sections treated with a special solution. In addition, it is necessary to remove rotten fruit under the trees so as not to attract rodents to the garden.
In the fall, it is advisable to whitewash the bases of tree trunks with a solution of lime; this will protect them from the invasion of insects that want to spend the winter there. In addition, you need to carefully examine the tree bark to see if any residents have settled there for the winter. If such accumulations of insects are found, they should be cleaned and removed. It is best to peel them off onto a piece of paper, which is then wrapped and burned.
The secret of many experienced gardeners is the process of deoxidation of the soil under mature trees and shrubs, which is carried out by adding dolomite flour to the soil. Together with it, you need to dig up the holes and leave the clods of earth unbroken. This will not only retain more moisture during the spring snowmelt, but will also freeze all pests.
Most shrubs need shelter for the winter, especially for bush roses. To do this, it is worth mulching them with a layer of soil with peat, approximately 30-40 cm high. This will preserve a larger layer of snow, protect them from frost, and in the spring provide maximum moisture for the root system of the shrubs.
Planting
Despite the approaching cold weather, autumn is the ideal time to plant some plants. Most of them are bulbous, best time plantings of which occur in October. Tulips, hyacinths, crocuses, and garlic are most often planted in autumn. The main rule for planting all bulbs is that they should be lowered into the ground to a depth of two of their diameters. Don't forget to add a pinch of compost to each hole. 
In the fall, strawberries are also replanted if necessary. Cool damp weather - ideal conditions for planting young seedlings. If you have time to transplant them before the first frost and properly cover them for the winter, you will be able to harvest the first harvest from these bushes in June.
Regarding planting seeds annual plants, then for their comfortable wintering you also need to prepare appropriate conditions. To do this, you need to place them in the holes for planting. a small amount of plant residues that will reliably warm the seeds of any seedlings.
Preparing plants and soil for wintering
In order for lawn grass to wake up healthy in the spring and continue to grow in an even carpet, it needs to be cut and covered before the cold weather. After the lawn is mowed, you need to carefully remove all cut blades of grass so that they do not rot or infect living seedlings. If necessary, it is worth adding fertilizers that will not only nourish the roots with useful microelements, but also protect them from wind and frost.
The same composition can be used to mulch all other plants, protecting them from freezing. Garden compost, which is used to cover the plants, will help retain heat and moisture inside, and in the spring add minerals to the soil. It is important that all unnecessary branches, shoots and flowers are trimmed and removed from the area. Any plant must rest in winter, so it is worth leaving only a few shoots.
The soil on which planting will take place in the spring can overwinter in one of two options. Firstly, the area can be dug up and left without leveling the ground. Then it will linger in clods maximum amount snow, and in the spring the beds will be ready for planting. During digging, you can add mineral fertilizers or compost to the soil.
Another option is to plant winter crops - wheat or millet. These plants have the ability to germinate even under a layer of snow; by spring their height will reach 10-12 cm. In April, when the snow has finally melted, the area with winter crops will simply need to be dug up along with the sprouts. Sprouted wheat contributes a lot to the soil useful substances and microelements that nourish the earth. After preparing the site, it will be possible to plant vegetable seedlings; the soil that has rested over the winter will give the necessary growth to any seedlings.
All climbing flowers and plants must be removed from their supports and the branches placed on a previously laid “cushion” of tree bark or leaves. There is no need to additionally cover the plants; even grapes can tolerate winter frosts without an additional “blanket”.
Wintering flowers
Most perennial flowers and plants can survive the winter without special preparations for frost. It is important to trim flowers and shoots, leaving a height of no more than 30 cm. Bulbous flowers that bloomed in the first half of autumn must be trimmed, the bulbs dug up, washed and laid to dry. Usually by autumn there are much more bulbs than there were in the spring when planting. When the bulbs are dry, they can be hidden in a paper bag and stored in a dark, cool place, for example, in a cellar. Dahlia tubers overwinter in the same way. Instead of paper bag You can use a box in which the bulbs and tubers are sprinkled with regular ash.
It is important that the place where the flowers are stored has high humidity, otherwise the bulbs may dry out and not germinate in the spring.
And chrysanthemums will overwinter in the soil, only after flowering they need to be trimmed and covered. For mulching, it is best to use a mixture of soil and peat. The same mixture can be used to cover other perennial plants and flowers.
If there is a danger of rodents in the garden (for example, if there is a forest or planting nearby), measures must be taken to save young trees. To do this, the bases of the trunks are tied with spruce branches or cut branches of blackberries or raspberries. If it is not possible to use natural protection, you can tie a net. This will help preserve tree bark.
Other garden work
Before the onset of frost, you also need to take care of the compost pit. When all the plant residues and leaves, shoots, pruned branches of plants collected from the site have been put there, the compost needs to be dug up. In winter, active rotting processes will occur in the heap, which can be accelerated by adding a special solution. To prepare it, you need to mix 0.5 kg of sugar and 20 g of yeast in 10 liters of water. 
It is important to keep your working tools in good condition. To do this, all equipment must be washed and cleared of soil. Shovels, hoes, pruning shears, garden shears and saws need sharpening. After this, they can be lubricated with a special compound that will preserve the properties of the metal. If wooden handles, handles, or tool holders were damaged or broken during summer work, they should be replaced.
It is important to hide all hoses for the winter, after draining all the water from them and drying them outside. Water also needs to be drained from fixed water pipes, if any, as well as from any barrels and tanks. Frozen water will ruin any container and you will not be able to use it next season. Taps on tubes located outside must be left open.
There is always a lot of work in the garden, and autumn is no exception. But if everything is done correctly and competently, the site will withstand the winter well, and in the spring it will be convenient and comfortable to work. With a little effort in preserving plants and tools for the winter hibernation period, you can return to gardening in a few months.
