The article presents step by step guide sewing a skirt, using the example of a straight skirt on the hips without a belt, with a vent and a fastener at the back. As a pattern, we will take the base of a straight two-seam skirt. In order to model the pattern, measure the required distance from the waist to the expected beginning of the skirt, transfer it to the pattern and cut off the excess. How to make patterns, read this link
Stages of sewing a skirt:
1. Fabric preparation. Before cutting the fabric, you need to check whether it will shrink after washing. To do this, the fabric is decoated, i.e. it needs to be moistened and dried. There are several methods of decoting, they depend on the type of fabric. Viscose and cotton fabrics are soaked in warm water, then dried and hung along the grain. Woolen and silk fabrics are rolled into a wet sheet. The material is left in this position for several hours. The damp fabric is ironed from the inside out in the longitudinal direction and left to dry in a lying position.
After we have finished the fabric, we decide on the front and back sides. We also take into account the direction of the pattern or pile, if any;
2. Cut the fabric. We place the patterns in a longitudinal direction on the wrong side, outline them with sharpened chalk or soap and give allowances for the seams.
(All pictures open in larger size by click)
The allowances vary depending on the side of the product: top – 1 cm, bottom – 3 cm, sides – 2.5 cm. The front part is a single piece, so we apply the pattern to the fold of the fabric, leaving no allowances. We make allowances for darts with a “corner”
We cut fabric;
3. Product basting. On the cut out parts we mark the hip line, transfer the dart solution to the other half using safety pins. Then the details are swept away hand stitches. First, we sweep away the vent (middle seam), since the zipper will be located at the back, we leave a free area at the top for it. Then darts are swept from the narrow end to the wide part
and finally the side seams. When basting the side seams, you must first align the control points (thigh line). We fix each seam on the front side
Lastly, we bend the bottom of the product;
4. Trying on. During fitting, the directions of the side seams, the location of the darts, the width and length of the skirt are specified, and the length of the vents is noted. We note all the shortcomings and, if necessary, make changes after fitting;
5. Sew the parts on a machine. Start by stitching the darts (from wide to narrow edge) and ironing towards the center. Then the vents are ground down, except for the fastener (it is swept away) and the side seams. We duplicate seam allowances on the fastener and vents on the wrong side
We overcast the sections with an overlocker and iron them different sides
6. Sew in a zipper. This model uses a hidden zipper. We fold the front side of the zipper with the back of the product, so that the lock is located opposite the seam. We sweep the zipper at a distance of 3 mm from the fold of the fabric, carefully moving the teeth towards the seam. Only the zipper tab should remain on the front side, and the lock itself should be hidden behind the fabric. We also baste the free edge of the zipper to the fabric and grind off both bastings;
7. Lining. The lining is cut out according to the product and sewn in the same way as the main fabric (except for darts). Place the finished lining on the wrong side of the skirt. This way, all the cuts will be hidden inside. We fasten the lining to the fabric with pins, first we connect the darts, middle and side seams, then evenly distribute the rest of the material. Darts on the lining are not cut out; instead, tucks are used.
Baste the skirt with lining;
8. Processing the top of the skirt. Since we are sewing a skirt without a belt, the top is processed using a facing. The facing is cut out according to the width of the upper part of the skirt with an increase of 4 cm, width - 4 cm. We duplicate the facing from the wrong side and overcast it on one side. We connect the raw edge to the top edge of the skirt (right sides inward) and baste it. Then we grind it on a machine and make a hem, that is, we turn the seam to the facing side and put a line next to the edge of the seam
After this, we bend the facing to the wrong side of the skirt, iron it and attach it with hidden stitches to the fastener, darts, vent and side seams;
9. Spline processing. In this model, the slot is processed in an ironed form. On each side of the vents, fold the seam allowance at the bottom to the front side and sew it on a machine at the level of the hem at the bottom. We turn out the corner and straighten it
10. Decorating the bottom of the skirt. The bottom of the skirt is overcast, folded to the width of the allowance and basted. Then it is sewn on with hidden stitches.
Now our skirt is ready
A skirt is one of the oldest items of women's (and in some countries, men's) wardrobe, the basis of which is a rectangular piece of fabric fastened at the waist. Simple skirt models require minimal effort and time in order to turn a piece of fabric lying around in the closet into a stylish new thing.
Tutu - dancer's skirt
The word tutu is unusual for our ears. English language called a ballet tutu, as well as fluffy tulle skirts that have become very popular. In order to make such an outfit, you don’t need sewing machine. Everything you need to create a stunning skirt for children's party, dancing classes, a photo shoot, and if desired, for a ballroom or even a wedding dress - this is about an hour and a half of time, a sufficient amount of tulle cut into strips, an elastic band for a belt (2-3 cm wide) and decorations.
It is best to use narrow tulle in strips 15 cm wide. If it is unavailable, cut fabric of regular width into strips. The most convenient way to do this is using a cardboard template. The length of such a template should be equal to the length of the skirt plus 1 cm.
Creating a skirt begins with a belt. Pulling lightly, determine the desired waist size, add 4 cm and sew (Fig. 1).
After this, using a template, cut strips of tulle, the length of which will be equal to twice the length of the skirt plus 2 cm. For a decorative effect, their ends can be cut off with a corner.
Then a ring made of elastic is put on the back of the chair and strips of tulle are attached to it (Fig. 3). To do this, fold the strip in half and pass both ends through the resulting loop. All knots must be made the same, without tightening the elastic in any way, otherwise the skirt will slide down.
For greater beauty, several colors are alternated in the skirt. Approximately 70 strips are needed for a waist size of 60 cm. The finished skirt is decorated with ribbons, artificial flowers and other decor (Fig. 4)
Romantic "Tatyanka"
The Tatyanka skirt is well suited for thin women with narrow hips. This model does not require the creation of patterns and fitting to the figure; it can be sewn, knowing how to perform only a straight stitch.
For “tatyanka” you will need a wide elastic band and dress fabric (not too thick). First, measure your waist using a thick elastic band, stretching it slightly. Add two centimeters to the measured length and cut it off.
The ends of the elastic are sewn together, the resulting ring is stretched as much as possible and the resulting length is measured - this will be half the width of the finished skirt (in ordinary patterns, the width of the “tatyanka” is equal to one and a half times the volume of the hips). The fabric is folded in half along the measured width (Fig. 5).
Then the sewn belt is fixed at the waist line and the desired length of the skirt is measured. Add hem allowances and attach the waistband, and cut out a rectangle of the desired size.
The cut out rectangle is folded in half with the right sides inward, the side seam is pinned and stitched.
Next, the bottom is tucked and processed, after which they begin the most difficult operation - attaching the belt. To do this, mark 4 main points on the skirt and elastic band with pins - 2 side lines, the middle of the back and front, and then combine them.
Pull the belt evenly, pin the skirt and belt at intermediate points, and then sew them together, stretching the elastic as much as possible. It is best to do this with a zigzag stitch.
For children's and beachwear, you can simply stitch the folded top of the skirt and thread the elastic into the resulting tunnel.
Pleated skirt
Bell skirts
Flared skirts suit any figure. They look simple and elegant, are often constructed directly onto the fabric, have minimal seams and require only two measurements - waist and length. The design of such skirts is based on a circle (sun), with a central hole for the waist. This circle, in turn, is cut out of a square, which when long length requires a lot of fabric consumption. More economical are skirts that are sewn from part of a circle, for example, a quarter-sun skirt. It is based on a square folded twice diagonally (Fig. 9)
The top section of the skirt corresponds to the waist line. Its length should correspond to the waist size, so the radius of the upper circle is determined as twice the waist size divided by three. For example, with a waist size of 60 cm, this radius will be 60 * 2/3 = 40 cm. To this value you need to add the length of the skirt, for example, with a desired length of 110 cm, you will need fabric with a width of more than 150 cm and the same length.
On a folded piece of fabric, mark the boundaries of two partial circles with chalk. This is conveniently done using a ribbon secured with a pin in the upper left corner of the fabric. The radius of the first part of the circle corresponds to the waist volume, as calculated above, the radius of the second is equal to this value plus the length, add seam allowances.
Since the fabric can stretch when cutting, it is recommended to take the length of the upper radius a little less and adjust the size when sewing and trying on. This skirt has a small extension downwards, so you need to control the length of the arc corresponding to the volume of the hips; its radius will be 20 cm greater than the radius of the upper cut. If the hips are wide, you need to lower the line of the top cut by 1-2 cm, and when sewing, adjust it. The skirt is connected along the back seam, into which a zipper is sewn, and a belt is sewn on top, the length of which is 4 cm greater than the waist circumference.
The half-sun skirt is easy to cut and sew, it suits any figure and looks simple and elegant. Its basis is half a circle (Fig. 12), and the radius of the upper semicircle is calculated as the waist volume divided by 3, that is, with a waist of 60 cm, the radius of the upper semicircle is 20 cm. To determine the radius of the lower semicircle, the length of the skirt is added to this number. That is, for a skirt 110 cm long, you will need a rectangular piece of fabric, the width of which is more than 130 cm and the length is more than 260 cm.
You need to cut such a skirt on a piece of fabric folded in half using half of the pattern or by making markings directly on the fabric.
The flowing circle skirt is very impressive, it is suitable for slender women. It is cut on the basis of a full circle. The radius of the inner circle is calculated as the waist volume divided by 6 (10 cm for a waist of 60 cm); for the radius of the outer circle, the length of the skirt is added to this value.
A short skirt can be cut from a square of fabric without side seams; in this case, its top is placed on an elastic band. Long skirts cut from two semicircles, in this case the fabric consumption can be determined only by placing the pattern on it as tightly as possible.
To the owners thin waist you can simplify the sewing by gathering the top with an elastic band (as in a Tatyanka skirt). However, in this case, for the radius of the upper part, it is necessary to take into account not the waist volume, but the hip volume, which, accordingly, will increase fabric consumption.
With the arrival of spring, every woman strives to update her wardrobe with new skirts, because during the long winter months, her legs are just asking for the sun. In addition, such a wardrobe detail is never superfluous. And sewing a skirt with your own hands without a pattern is quick and easy.
How to sew a circle skirt with your own hands: a master class for beginners
Probably everyone remembers that wonderful scene from the movie “Some Like It Hot,” where the famous Marilyn Monroe shows us the chic flight of the hem of her skirt, standing above the ventilation hatch. You can repeat this only if you have a full circle skirt in your wardrobe. In addition, such a detail of clothing perfectly emphasizes the beauty female legs and hides figure flaws. Try sewing such a skirt by following our master class.
Necessary materials:
- fabric measuring 1x1.5 m;
- 10-20 cm zipper;
- scissors;
- pen;
- pins;
- sewing machine;
- measuring tape.
Step-by-step description of the process:
- Take the prepared piece of fabric and fold it as shown in the picture. The size of the fabric depends on how long the skirt you want to end up with.
- Then you need to do a simple calculation. Measure your waist with a tape and divide the resulting number by 2*3.14. For example, if your waist size is 69 cm, divide it by 2*Pi and end up with 11 cm.
- Now take a ruler and measure the resulting value from the finished edge of the fabric.
- Using a pen or chalk, draw a circle with a radius of 11 cm. If your measurements are different, be sure to enter your value.
- Then we cut off the intended corner.
- Next you need to do the same, but with a larger radius of the circle along the lower edge of the skirt.
- As a result of all the manipulations with the fabric, we end up with a shape that resembles an CD.
- Before you start creating the belt, you need to make a cut inside the smaller circle for the zipper.
- To make a belt, take your waist measurement as a basis plus 2-3 cm for the seams. For example, the photo shows a belt measuring 73x15 cm, but you can change these parameters depending on your waist size and the desired width of the trim.
- Fold the rectangle in half and, using the longest "straight stitch" on sewing machine, sew the fabric along the entire length.
- Starting at the zipper opening, secure the waistband to the fabric with pins and sew using a sewing machine.
- We attach the zipper with pins and carefully attach it to the skirt, drawing the seam as close to the lock as possible.
- At the final stage, we hem the hem of the skirt, taking an allowance of 1-1.5 cm from the edge.
We sew an original half-sun skirt
First of all, what is the difference between a circle skirt and a circle skirt? If we take into account only appearance, then the half-sun skirt is not so fluffy and wide. And if you turn to sewing, then the main difference is the presence of 1 or 2 seams. It is these joints that often constitute the main problem in cutting for beginning needlewomen.
In fact, everything is quite simple and you can sew a half-sun skirt in a few steps:
- Fold the fabric in half with the right sides facing in and secure the edges with safety pins.
- To cut, take 2 measurements, waist circumference and skirt length.
- On both sides of the right angle, set aside half of the total waist volume and draw a semicircular line.
- Now, starting from the top line, measure the desired length and draw a bottom line. That's the whole cut of the half-sun skirt.
- The second half is made in a similar way, after which all the parts are cut out and sewn together in straight lines.
No less important in cutting a half-sun skirt is the choice of fabric. For sewing beginners, it is better to choose a material without patterns that holds its shape well. The thing is that when the seams meet, the pattern may not match, and if the fabric stretches too much, the seam will go to the side and the finished skirt will be irrevocably damaged.
A straight skirt without a pattern is quick and easy!
The classic pencil skirt has always been and remains a classic of the genre. It has gained wide popularity among the fair sex due to its universal cut. A straight skirt not only goes great with formal office blouses, but also looks great with a variety of loose-fitting shirts and summer T-shirts. Let's sew the same pencil skirt as in our master class.
Necessary materials:
- a piece of knitted fabric measuring about 50x100 cm;
- scissors;
- pen or chalk;
- old pencil skirt.
Step-by-step description of the process:
The ability to model allows you to sew several completely different skirts using one pattern option. If you love to dance, then the patterns of gypsy and Spanish skirts will allow you to sew your own outfit for performances. And if you just follow fashion, or prefer your own, purely individual style, then this section will help you always look fashionable and stylish. Moreover, using this skill, you can sew an exclusive dress. There are many styles of skirts: godet, flared, sun, pleated, pleated, Scottish, spiral, mini, midi, maxi, and skirt patterns will allow you to realize any designer's fantasies. Below are very interesting and practical options for skirt patterns: straight skirt patterns, Godet skirt patterns, Sun skirt patterns, straight skirt patterns with a flyaway cape, wrap skirt patterns, skirt patterns with a frilled mould, skirt patterns with an undercut and drapery etc. which are easy to sew and pleasant to wear.
Taking measurements
In mass clothing production To construct drawings of patterns, ready-made tables are used, in which the measurements of the necessary parameters of typical figures are recorded. For individual tailoring, the use of such tables is impractical, since more accurate and detailed data is required: Here, another system is used - calculation and measurement, which is based on measuring distances between certain points human body. These distances are called measures.
To take measurements, you must have a measuring tape, a pencil and a notebook. In this case, it is necessary to comply with certain requirements: the person from whom measurements are taken must stand relaxed, with a straight posture and arms down along the body; the legs should be brought together at the heels, and the toes should be slightly turned outward (with the slightest deviation to the sides, the measurements may turn out to be inaccurate); When measuring measurements, the centimeter tape should not be tightened or, conversely, loosened; In order to eliminate distortion of readings, it is advisable to take measurements using underwear.
Remember! The accuracy of the pattern drawing and, consequently, the appearance of the product you sew depends on the correctness and accuracy of the measurements you take.
However, that's not all.
To draw a skirt drawing, you need to take into account what type of physique your figure belongs to. If you have a standardly built figure (smoothly wavy back, position of the protruding points of the shoulder blades and buttocks at the same level relative to the vertical, moderate notch of the waist and protrusion of the buttocks, normal hip width), then to draw a drawing of the skirt you need the following measurements
Straight two-seam skirt
Despite the variety of this or that skirt, the straight two-seam one is the basis for constructing many models. This skirt exists perfectly as an independent product and as an integral part of many costumes. It is not without reason that it is one of the classic models and therefore has rightfully been at the peak of fashion for several decades. It is suitable for women of any age category, and will also be appropriate for both special occasions and everyday wear. This skirt can be sewn from almost any type of fabric. However, it is not recommended to sew it from checkered fabrics, since adjusting such a pattern is quite difficult. If you decide to sew a skirt made of striped fabric, then when cutting it is necessary to maintain the symmetry of the pattern on the front and back panels. A straight two-seam skirt without widening at the bottom will look a little narrowed. Therefore, it is not recommended for women with low hips.
BUILDING A DRAWING OF THE CONSTRUCTION OF A STRAIGHT DOUBLE-SEAM SKIRT
To construct a drawing (Fig. 14), the following measurements of the figure are necessary: waist circumference (Wt), hip circumference (C6) and product length (L) - And you also need to know the amount of increase for a loose fit along the waist line (Wt) and line hips (P6). For all sizes they are equal:
Fri = 0.7-1.0 cm, Pb = 1.5-2.0 cm.
In what follows, we will call the necessary measurements and additions “initial data.”
For convenience of construction and calculations, we will take the measurements of a typical figure; St = 38 cm, Se = 52 cm, Dt = 75 cm.
We construct a right angle with the vertex at point T. The segment TN corresponds to the length of the skirt and is the middle of the front panel. The segment TB determines the position of the hip line and is equal to 13.5-19.5 cm. We draw lines through the obtained points B and H perpendicular to the straight line TN. From point B along the hip line we lay off a segment equal to the measurement of the half-circumference of the hips (C6) plus an increase for a loose fit along the hips (Pb), and place point B1
BB 1 = C6 + Pb = 52 + 2 = 54 cm.
Through point B 1, draw a vertical line until it intersects with the waist line at point T1 and the bottom line at point H1. This straight line is the middle of the rear panel. From point B to the right along the hip line we put BB2
BB 2 = BB1/2 - 1 = TT2 = NN2
Through point B 2 we draw a vertical line until it intersects with the waist line at point T2 and the bottom line at point H2.
Summer is just around the corner and we all want to update our wardrobes. How to do this easily, quickly and without much expense? The answer is simple - sew a skirt with your own hands. Never sewed? This article is specifically intended for beginners.
What do you need to sew a skirt?
In order to sew a skirt with your own hands, you will need a piece of fabric of the required length, chalk, thread, scissors, and a needle. Choose the material based on your wishes: light and flowing or dense and heavy. If you are using sheer fabric, buy the same amount of lining fabric to match. In this article we will not talk about how to build complex patterns. Our goal is to tell you how to sew a summer skirt easily and quickly. Let's consider options for beginning needlewomen that do not require special knowledge or time.
Sew a pencil skirt
A pencil skirt is an essential attribute of any modern woman. She creates stylish look and emphasizes all the advantages female figure. The easiest way to sew such a skirt is from thick knitted fabric. Then it will fit well and you won’t have to add a lining. First, take measurements: half-circumference of the hips and waist, length of the skirt. Cut out two identical rectangles. Their length is equal to the length of the future skirt (plus 6 cm), and their width is equal to the half-circumference of the hips (plus 6 cm for seam processing). Fold the rectangles, wrong side out, and find the center on top. Set aside a distance in each direction equal to the half-circumference of the waist, divided by 2. Mark points A and B. Step back down the sides by 8-15 cm (depending on whether the skirt will sit on the hips or waist). We mark points C and D. We connect A and B, B and D with smooth lines. We process the side seams, bottom and top. If necessary, sew in a zipper. The skirt is ready!
A circle skirt is another simple option for those who want to sew a skirt with their own hands. We take measurements as for the previous model. Fold the fabric in half with the wrong side out. We lay it out so that the fold is on top and draw a semicircle. Its radius is calculated using the formula: skirt length plus hip circumference divided by 3.14. Cut out a circle and cut out a small circle in its center. Its radius is equal to the half-circumference of the hips divided by 3.14. Then you need to wet the product with water and let it hang for a couple of days. After this, the skirt may stretch out in some places. If this happens, trim the edges and hem them. The waist can be made with an elastic band or a belt can be sewn on. Sew on the back or side hidden zipper and rejoice at the new thing!
Even those who have never held a needle and thread in their hands can sew a skirt from old jeans. This will require a couple of old denim trousers, scissors, chalk or marker, thread. First you need to decide on the length of the future product and measure this value (don’t forget to add 5 cm for finishing the seams) from the waistband of the trousers. We cut off the excess and rip out the internal seams, while leaving the side seams intact. Now we connect the halves of the front and back parts with a straight seam or an overlap. All that remains is to trim and finish the bottom of the skirt. To create a romantic look, you can cut out flounces from leftover fabric and decorate the hem with them. And if you want to give it a youthful and edgy look, leave the edge raw.
Sewing a skirt is not difficult at all and very interesting!
Now you know how to a short time and without special effort sew a skirt. With your own hands you can make a unique wardrobe item that will help you create many new looks!
