Year of publication: 2002
Language: Japanese
Format: pdf
Number of pages: 156 pages
Size: 108 Mb
Short description.
The book presents 28 models of dresses by the famous fashion trendsetter of the 1920s and 30s, Madeleine Vionnet. Madeleine Vionnet's style is focused on geometric shapes. Madeleine was considered an innovator in the art of tailoring. She often used stretch fabrics and cut on the bias. Vionnet worked only using the “tattooing” technique, that is, she created
volumetric models
Short description.
. The book contains photographs of models, as well as patterns on a scale of 1:10. The cut of the dresses is very simple in lines, but far from trivial in design. THEM. Bratchik Designing women's outerwear of complex shapes and cuts The book discusses a once new method for constructing drawings of women's outerwear of complex shapes and cuts (with raglan sleeves, one-piece, combined various options). Formulas are given and given specific examples calculation of allowances for products of various cuts. A technical modeling section is proposed, recommendations are given for practical application
this method
Short description.
design. The book is intended for a wide range of readers involved in the design and sewing of women's outerwear. M.L. Voronin Design and production of men's outerwear using the non-trying method
The author's unique model-vest method of design, cutting and sewing is described.
Short description.
The textbook was developed in accordance with the course program "Designing clothing with CAD elements" for students of higher educational institutions. The textbook is intended for students of higher educational institutions and specialists light industry.
Laboratory workshop on clothing design with CAD elements
Short description.
The book provides guidelines for performing laboratory work on clothing design using CAD. Methods for anthropometric studies of size and shape are described human body, sets out methods for calculating and constructing patterns of clothing parts, constructing basic structures, performing design work when creating new clothing models and preparing them for implementation in mass production using a computer. The main issues of clothing quality control are covered. The textbook is intended for students of higher educational institutions and light industry specialists and can be used in conjunction with the textbook “Designing Clothing with CAD Elements.”
P.I.
Short description.
Rogov, N.M. Konopaltseva Designing women's clothing for the individual consumer The book shows body features female figures , characteristics of their morphological variability along the main structural belts. The principles of constructing design drawings in various design methods are outlined. The calculation and measurement method for designing women's products is considered in detail and calculations and construction of design drawings are given. different types women's clothing. The textbook is intended for students
educational institutions
Short description.
secondary vocational education. The book can also be useful to students of universities of the relevant profile, engaged in the design of women's clothing. A.I. Martynova Catalog of models and designs of women's clothing The tutorial discusses an express method for designing the basic and initial model designs of shoulder-length women's clothing with set-in sleeves for figures of various body types.
Tutorial
Short description.
contains examples of the development of modern models of women's clothing of various assortments and corresponding working documentation, including: drawings of model structures, methods technological processing, diagrams for determining the parameters of derived patterns, drawings of patterns of product parts and auxiliary patterns, drawings of gradation of parts, etc. E.A., dimensional characteristics of figures, increases in clothing.
The features of constructing structures for women of this age group are described in detail.
Short description.
E.B. Koblyakova, A.V. Savostitsky, G.S. Ivleva Fundamentals of clothing design The book describes methods of anthropological research into the size and shape of the human body and the design of industrial mannequins. Set out modern methods calculation and construction of patterns of clothing parts, design basic principles, execution
design work
Short description.
when creating clothing models and preparing them for implementation in mass production.
The main issues of monitoring and assessing the quality of clothing are covered.
Short description.
G.A. Samarov, A.I. Cheremnykh Modeling and design of men's outerwear The book outlines methods for calculating and constructing designs for men's products: jackets, coats, trousers, tailcoats, etc. The construction method corresponds to the design features of the 50s of the twentieth century.
AND I. Skovronsky Designing men's outerwear
Short description.
The book can serve as a guide for creating designs for various types of men's outerwear. The design of men's outerwear is described in detail here. various types and cuts on the same basis. L.T. Stetyukha Designing women's light dresses and underwear
The book outlines methods for constructing a lung
Short description.
women's dress and underwear according to the proportional-measuring system, calculations for constructing drawings for a wide range of light women's clothing are presented: blouses, skirts, women's and baby dress
, as well as women's and men's underwear.
Short description.
E.A. Yanchevskaya Designing women's light clothing The book examines the influence of posture on the design of the product, the issues of developing the design of the basics of women's lightweight clothing with set-in sleeves, with seamless sleeves various shapes
and raglan sleeves. The construction of collars of various options is given, as well as options for transferring darts and some examples of atypical solutions for the bodice, sleeves, and skirt.
Short description.
Valeria Ferrari DIY soft toy
The book presents illustrative material covering all stages of creation.
Short description.
The book outlines the basic techniques of wax painting. Materials reviewed in detail theoretical basis design.
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Most modern computational and graphic methods of clothing design provide as initial data information about the body size (dimensional characteristics of the figure) of a person and allowances for a loose fit.
When making clothes according to individual orders in the studio, the customer can perform:
a new or updated product based on specific body measurements (with the development of an individual model sketch);
a model from among the ready-made samples presented in the showroom (based on the customer’s body measurements);
a product made from a semi-finished product (with fitting and adjustment to the customer’s figure).
These forms of services have a significant impact on clothing design and determine those features that distinguish custom clothing design from general clothing design. When making custom-made clothing, the external shape of the customer’s body is determined by measuring the figure. Therefore, the most serious attention must be paid to measuring the figure and identifying body features that are important for the design of the product.
SIZE CHARACTERISTICS OF WOMEN'S FIGURES
2.1. Anthropometric methods for studying body size and shape
The dimensional characteristics of the body can be obtained on the basis of anthropological studies. When making custom-made clothing, information about the body size of a particular person is obtained by directly measuring it. In the industrial production of clothing, the average results of mathematical processing of data from mass anthropometric methods of studying the country's population are used.
Anthropometric research methods. Anthropometry is the main method of anthropological research and consists of measuring the human body and its parts. Anthropometric studies are carried out with careful observance of the necessary conditions, one of which is a strictly defined posture of the person being measured. This is explained by the fact that any change in posture causes a change in individual body dimensions. When conducting an anthropometric study, a person must stand straight, without tension, maintaining his usual posture; the head must be fixed in a certain plane passing through the orbital-auricular horizontal plane; arms are lowered along the body, fingers extended; legs straightened at the knees, heels together, toes spread; breathing is calm. A person should stand without shoes, men and children - in shorts, girls and women - in shorts and a bra.
Measurements are performed by two equally trained specialists, one of whom measures, and the other writes down the measurement results and monitors the correct position of the instruments and the posture of the person being measured. Necessary conditions for carrying out measurements are compliance with the uniformity of measurement techniques, accurate fixation of the position of points or boundaries on soft tissues bodies against which measurements are made.
The thickness of the fat folds is measured using a caliper (Fig. 2.4), a compass in which constant pressure is automatically maintained on the surface of the fold. Body weight is determined using portable medical scales. Linear and arc measurements are made with an accuracy of 1 mm, body weight - up to 200 g.
Anthropometric studies are carried out according to certain programs, each of which includes only those signs that are necessary to solve the problem. None of the programs is universal. The measurement program for clothing design is comprehensive and includes measurements that determine the total body size; measurements characterizing body proportions and girth dimensions; special measurements taken on the surface of the body (arm length, chest height, distance from the waist line to the floor on the side, length of the shoulder slope, etc.).
Classification of human body measurements. All measurements of the human body are classified depending on the method of measurement.
Linear measurements do not pass over the surface of the body. They are performed to determine the distance between two points on the surface of the body. Linear measurements can be projection or direct.
Projection measurements are defined as the distance between two points on the surface of the human body in projection onto a vertical (height) or horizontal (projection diameters, depths) plane. Projection diameters are measured on the neck and torso in the transverse and anteroposterior directions. Depths are measured, as a rule, to characterize the curves of the spine (waist depth, body position, etc.).
Direct measurements, determined by the shortest distance between two points on the surface of the body, are relatively rarely used for clothing design. These are dimensional characteristics such as shoulder diameter, pelvic diameter, etc.
Arc measurements carried over the surface of the body. There are transverse and longitudinal arc measurements.
Transverse measurements include body girths in different areas, widths and arcs (chest girth, waist girth, back width, etc.).
Longitudinal measurements include lengths, distances and arcs that determine the length of individual parts of the body, heights (the length of the back to the waist line, the distance from the base of the neck on the side to the radial point, the arc through the groin area, etc.).
Anthropometric points. All measurements are made between certain points on the human body or along precisely defined boundaries on soft tissues. The points used for measurements are called anthropometric. When developing a dimensional typology for the design of clothing, both classical anthropometric points are used, corresponding to clearly defined skeletal formations, and points on soft tissues, which are the starting points for some measurements. Points on soft tissues do not have a Latin name. In classical anthropometry, more than 100 anthropometric points are used, in applied anthropometry - no more than 20. To develop a modern dimensional typology of the population, 16 anthropometric points were used, of which 10 are used in determining projection longitudinal dimensional characteristics (heights), and the rest are used as landmarks for other measurements bodies (Fig. 2.5)
Rice. 25. Anthropometric points
Anthropometric points correspond to clearly defined and easily fixed skeletal formations (roughnesses, tubercles, bone processes, etc.), defined boundaries on soft tissues, and specific skin formations. Most of these points are classic, which help eliminate errors when taking dimensional characteristics:
apical A- the highest point of the crown when placing the head in the orbital-auricular horizontal position;
cervical b- apex of the spinous process of the seventh cervical vertebra;
base of the neck V- located at the intersection of the neck girth line with a vertical plane cutting the shoulder slope in half;
clavicular G- the highest point of the sternal end of the clavicle;
upper sternal d- the point is located in the center of the jugular notch of the sternum, not deep in the direction of its posterior edge;
mid-sternal e- the point of the midline of the sternum at the level of its articulation with the upper edge of the cartilages of the fourth ribs;
brachial ocromial and- the most protruding point of the lateral edge of the acromial process of the scapula;
humeral h- the point is located at the intersection of the upper outer edge of the acromial process of the scapula with a vertical plane cutting the area of the shoulder joint in half;
radial And- the upper point of the head of the radial bone on the outer side;
subulate w- the lower point of the styloid process of the radius;
nipple To- the most protruding point of the mammary gland formed by the corset;
iliac anterior l(spinous) - the most forward point of the upper anterior axis of the ilium;
knee m- center of the kneecap;
anterior angle of the axilla n- the highest point of the arc formed by the anterior edge of the armpit with the arm lowered (the point is hidden by a small fold of skin that needs to be straightened to determine the top of the arc);
posterior angle of the axilla O- the highest point of the arc formed by the posterior edge of the armpit with the arm lowered (the point is hidden by a small fold of skin);
gluteal P- the most posterior point of the gluteal muscle;
waist line height point R- located on the most depressed part of the lateral surface of the body in the middle of the distance between the lower rib and the iliac crest.
