To the tools for handmade include hand needles, thimble, scissors, measuring tape; for accessories - cutting ring, peg, dummy, patterns, tailor's chalk, etc.
In the process of making clothes, tools and devices are selected taking into account the characteristics of the fabric being processed and the type of work performed, which has important For proper organization labor, High Quality work and increase productivity.
Hand needles Depending on the length and diameter, they are divided by numbers from No. 1 (the thinnest) to No. 12 (the thickest). The characteristics of the needles are given in table. 2.
table 2 Characteristics of needles by numbers(GOST 1170 - 54)
| Needle number | Diameter, mm | Length, mm | Application for textile processing |
| 1 | 0,6 | 35 | Cotton and silk |
| 2 | 0,7 | 30 | Lightweight cotton, silk and wool |
| 3 | 0,7 | 40 | |
| 4 | 0,8 | 30 | Medium thickness, light combed cotton clothing, etc. |
| 5 | 0,8 | 40 | |
| 6 | 0,9 | 35 | |
| 7 | 0,9 | 45 | |
| 8 | 1,0 | 40 | Coat group |
| 9 | 1,0 | 50 | |
| 10 | 1,2 | 50 | |
| 11 | 1,6 | 75 | Heavy fabrics |
| 12 | 1,8 | 80 |
In the manufacture of outerwear, needles No. 4 - 10 are most widely used.
The needle should be sharp, elastic, unbreakable, well polished, without burrs in the eye, which cause loosening and thread breaks.
Thimble needed to push the needle into the fabric; put it on middle finger right hand. There are two types of thimbles: without a bottom and with a bottom.
A thimble with a bottom (solid) is used in the manufacture of dresses and linen. The thimble should have sharp indentations for the needle to rest.
It is recommended to use a thimble without a bottom when making outerwear, since a thimble with a bottom causes sweating and rapid fatigue of the finger. The thimble is selected according to the finger so that one fourth of the nail remains open. When working, the needle is pushed through the side of the thimble.
Scissors They are used in various sizes and are distinguished by numbers from No. 1 (largest) to No. 8 (smallest).
| Scissors number | Recommended types of work |
| 1 - 2 | Cutting fabrics of the coat group (cloth, drape, etc.), basic work |
| 2 - 3 | Cutting costume fabrics (tights, cheviot, etc.), basic work |
| 4 | Cutting cotton and silk fabrics |
| 4 - 5 | Trimming small parts from different fabrics |
| 5 - 6 | Making cuts when processing products |
| 7 - 8 | Trimming thread ends |
The scissors should be well sharpened and the ends should close completely without making a sharp sound. At modern organization In sewing factories, scissors are almost never used when cutting fabrics, since this process is mechanized.
If, when processing clothing parts, great physical effort is required to trim (warp) several layers of fabric, scissors are replaced with basic machines (OM-1, OM-2, OM-Z), the use of which facilitates work, increases labor productivity and production culture.
Tape measure serves to take measurements from a figure, measure parts and the width of seams when checking the quality of work.
Trimming ring used for trimming threads unwinding from a spool and after finishing sewing. A ring with a soldered crescent-shaped plate is placed on the index finger of the left hand. The use of a cutting ring instead of scissors helps to save time and increase worker productivity.
Peg used to remove threads from stitches that temporarily connect parts, align corners, pierce holes in parts, etc. Pegs can be made from hardwood (oak, maple, birch). The most practical and hygienic are pegs made of metal and plastic.
Dummy imitates a human figure and is used to check the correct connection of parts during the manufacturing process of a product. On the mannequin, check the correct stitching of the side and shoulder sections, stitching of the sleeves into the armholes, the lower collar into the neck, etc. During the final finishing, the product is put on the mannequin and the locations of the buttons are marked. When sorting finished products On a mannequin, check the correct fit of the product on the figure.
The mannequin is made of thick cardboard and covered with cotton fabric. The size of the mannequin is determined in the same way as the size of the figure, i.e. half the chest circumference. Products of all heights (lengths) are tested on a mannequin of the same size.
Patterns (product parts cut from cardboard or thick paper) according to their purpose are divided into standard patterns, main (working) and auxiliary (auxiliary).
Patterns - standards are used for making and checking basic patterns. Basic (working) patterns are used to apply contours and control notches when cutting fabrics and checking the quality of cut cut parts. Auxiliary (auxiliary) patterns are used in sewing shops for marking the locations of pockets, darts, folds, etc. on clothing parts. With a stable range of manufactured products, auxiliary patterns and patterns for cutting parts on tape machines are edged with special profile wire, which increases the service life pattern service in production and more accurate cutting of parts is achieved.
When unifying the processing of individual clothing parts, it is advisable to make patterns from materials that are harder than cardboard, for example metal or plastic. The service life of such patterns increases.
In mass production, metal templates are used to perform wet-heat treatment operations: bending the edges of patch pockets, ironing valves and trims in men's shirts, marking lines for stitching valves, etc. Templates are used when processing clothing units on machines using adhesive joints of parts.
For tracing patterns and drawing lines for various purposes (location of pockets, folds, darts, stitching parts, etc.) tile chalk . The production uses specially prepared chalk in the form of flat tiles of different colors. To obtain thin, clear chalk lines, the chalk should be periodically sharpened so that the thickness of the drawn lines does not exceed 0.1 cm.
When performing manual work, the following technical conditions must be observed.
1. Lines on fabrics with synthetic fiber are drawn with soap (baby, egg).
2. Temporary stitches are made with light cotton threads or twisted cotton yarn of the corresponding numbers.
3. Length hand stitches in the line is chosen depending on the type of fabric and the purpose of the line ().
4. Needle numbers are selected in accordance with the thickness of the fabric being processed and the nature of the work performed.
5. The ends of temporary stitches are secured with 1 - 2 reverse stitches.
6. Temporary stitches are removed using a peg.
Hand tools include hand needles, thimble, scissors, and measuring tape. Accessories include pins, a cushion or magnetic pin holder, tailor's chalk, peg, rulers, ripper, etc. All tools must be kept in order, since the quality of the work performed depends on their condition.
Hand needles are the main tool for performing manual work, which is a metal rod, blunt at one end, pointed at the other. The blunt end has a hole for thread. The needle should be straight, polished, free of rust and dark spots, with an oval-shaped eye without burrs, of a size sufficient to thread a thread of the corresponding number into it. The needles are different in length, diameter, and have eyes of different sizes. Needles are selected depending on the type of product, the fabric being processed and the nature of the operation being performed.
Numbers and purposes of hand needles
| Number | Diameter, mm | Length, mm | Purpose |
| 1 | 0,6 | 35 |
Sewing products from light cotton fabrics, silk and wool fabrics |
| 2 | 0,7 | 30 |
The same from light fabrics, as well as from fabrics of medium thickness (tights, light worsted, etc.) |
| 3 | 0,7 | 40 | |
| 4 | 0,8 | 30 | The same, from fabrics of medium thickness (tights, light worsted, etc.) |
| 5 | 0,8 | 40 | |
| 6 | 0,9 | 35 | |
| 7 | 0,9 | 45 | |
| 8 | 1,0 | 40 | Manufacturing of bags, shoulder straps, etc. |
| 9 | 1,0 | 50 | |
| 10 | 1,2 | 50 | |
| 11 | 1,6 | 75 | |
| 12 | 1,8 | 80 |
Thimble designed to protect the finger from being pricked when pushing the needle into the tissue. The thimble is selected according to the size (thickness) of the middle finger of the right hand. Thimbles come with a bottom and without a bottom. By type, thimbles can be cone-shaped without a bottom, with a rim at the bottom, used for making outerwear; cone-shaped with a bottom, used in the manufacture light dress and linen; ring-shaped, worn in the manufacture of hats and fur products. On the surface of the thimble there are recesses arranged in a checkerboard pattern that prevent the needle from slipping and are necessary for resting the needle when piercing the fabric.
Thimble sizes by numbers
| Number | Large diameter, mm | Diameter small, mm | Height, mm |
| 2 | 15 | 11 | 15-19 |
| 3 | 16 | 12 | 15-20 |
| 4 | 17 | 13 | 15-20 |
| 5 | 18 | 14 | 15-21 |
| 8 | 17 | 14 | 15-21 |
| 10 | 18 | 15 | 15 |
| 12 | 19 | 16 | 15 |
Scissors are used for cutting, trimming clothing parts and trimming thread ends. The blades of scissors should be smooth, well polished, without burrs. Depending on the thickness of the materials and the nature of the work performed, scissors are selected by number.
Characteristics and purpose of scissors
| Purpose | Characteristic | Image |
| Cutting and trimming heavy fabrics (coats, jeans, etc.) |
Professional forged and polished cutting shears, made of Solingen steel, blade length 200 mm. |
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| Cutting and trimming costume fabrics, trimming large parts of outerwear |
The scissors are made of hardened stainless steel, blade length 260 mm. The scissors are self-sharpening and laser sharpened blades provide excellent cutting quality. Ergonomic, comfortable, durable. |
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| Trimming parts from medium-thick fabric | The steel blade of the scissors, 230 mm long, remains sharp for a long time thanks to laser sharpening. The connecting unit is made of hardened steel. The tension of the blades can be adjusted using a screw fastening. |  |
| Cutting leather and other materials | The blades of the scissors are made of high-carbon stainless steel with a nickel coating to achieve high strength and maintain cutting ability for a long time. Blade length 228 mm. |  |
| Cutting and trimming fine wool, silk and cotton fabrics | Tailor's scissors with an increased angle of inclination and a blade length of 230 mm. The blades of the scissors are made of high-carbon stainless steel to achieve high strength and maintain cutting ability for a long time. The screw that adjusts the position of the blades relative to each other allows you to make adjustments as accurately and easily as possible. | |
| Cutting lining and other crumbling materials | Blade length 210 mm. The scissors are made of hardened stainless steel. The scissors are self-sharpening and laser sharpened blades provide excellent cutting quality. Ergonomic, comfortable, durable. |  |
| Trimming seams, uneven parts, trimming thread ends | Blade length 140 mm. The scissors are made of hardened stainless steel. The scissors are self-sharpening and laser sharpened blades provide excellent cutting quality. Ergonomic, comfortable, durable. |  |
| Cut any type of material | Blade length 250 mm. Tailor's scissors are ideal for working with various fabrics, including with heavy materials. The blades are made of high quality stainless steel. Precise grinding down to the tips guarantees excellent cutting quality. Connecting the blades with a threaded screw prevents loosening. Handles with rubberized inserts are comfortable to use. The fingers have enough space, which allows you to work without fatigue. |  |
To trim the ends of the threads, a special device is used - dividers.
The ripper is used for straightening after turning out the corners of sides, collars, flaps, straps and other parts, as well as for removing stitches for temporary purposes.
Tape measure- soft rubberized tape 150 cm long with centimeter and millimeter divisions applied along the entire length. It is used for measuring figures, measuring fabrics and parts when cutting and processing a product. During operation, the tape may stretch, so it is necessary to systematically check it with a rigid ruler. Measurements should be taken and cutting should be done one measuring tape at a time.
A mannequin is a replica of a human figure. Mannequins are produced for women, men and children in various sizes, lengths and thicknesses. They are used in the processing of products, in preparing them for fitting and for quality control. finished products. For ease of use, mannequins are placed on stands so that its height can be adjusted.
Tailor's pins. At making lightweight In clothing, tailor's pins are used for chopping off parts, clarifying design lines, when transferring lines from one part to another, when performing machine work without preliminary basting, sweeping or basting parts. Pins should be thin, sharp, well polished, 3...4 cm long.
Tailor's chalk is used for tracing patterns, drawing design lines, control marks and symbols during fittings. It is produced in the form of triangular, rectangular and rounded pressed tiles up to 7 cm in size, as well as in the form of markers and pencils for cutting materials. Chalk varies in composition, hardness and colors. Lines drawn with tailor's chalk disappear after the first wash of the product, even in the case of ordinary, non-self-disappearing chalk.
When using, the edges of the crayons are sharpened to 1...1.5 mm, the lines are chalked away from you. When drawing lines using a ruler, the chalk is held with its entire plane close to the ruler and perpendicular to the surface of the fabric.
Rulers, squares, patterns used in drawing drawings of clothing parts, as well as in cutting and manufacturing products.
Convenient leather thimble, from Samantha Brenneman:
I've been sewing since I was a kid, but I could never bring myself to use a traditional metal thimble. I avoided using it for years and became resigned to the discomfort of the needle.
I recently made a baby envelope that was almost entirely hand quilted. Pushing a small, thin needle through the envelope fabric and cotton batting to make all those little stitches really drove home how important such a small tool can be. I worked my way through my project using a standard metal thimble, but could never get used to it. So, I started searching for a thimble that would not only fit better, but would also be comfortable for long-term use during long needlework.
I tried several types of leather thimbles, similar to those often used by quilters (most are made of leather and fabric with a small metal plate in the tip). None of them fit completely: one fell apart; the other has stretched during use and become thin; another one was made from patent leather, too slippery to hold the needle; and finally the last one was made of such thick leather that I even needed a metal plate, but I could not feel through it what I was doing when I sewed with it.
I even tried using the fingers of old gloves with a small piece of felt inserted inside to tighten the fit. These makeshift thimbles were more suitable than most, but they wore out too quickly.
The right solution
In a burst of inspiration (or frustration), I decided to design my own perfect leather thimble that would meet all the features I liked: softness; elasticity of the skin for easier grip of the needle; a long “tail” above the fingertip to select a comfortable position and easily remove and put on the thimble; and a hard tip, beveled like a fingertip to push the needle through the fabric while protecting the finger.
If you've had the same dilemma as me, or you just want a complete set of thimbles that are really easy to use, try my technique for making your own. You can make several thimbles in minutes. And it's not such a bad idea because you can take it with you wherever you sew. Plus, you'll always have a backup if one of them gets lost or wears out.
Start with a basic tube-tail pattern. She has a good size for my pretty small finger, but you can easily increase or decrease it by cutting wider or at along the seam line (see below “How to make a thimble to your size”).
The wide V-shaped curve at the end provides a bevel at the end of the thimble. This beveled design ensures that the needle will hit the tip every time and won't slip off.
Thimble design
Most of my thimbles are made from soft pieces of pigskin that I have collected (3 square inches is usually more than enough, 1 inch = 2.54 cm). I also always used suede or old gloves - a wonderful fate for gloves that have lost their pair, but are a shame to throw away.
Soft skin very flexible and comfortable, but has a tendency to stretch, so I make my thimbles a little tight to begin with. To compensate for such stretching in the future, on each thimble I make a small “strap” immediately after the first knuckle. The strap can be made from a small strip of leather or a piece of elastic cord and the fit should be fairly snug because it holds the thimble on your finger at a comfortable angle even when the leather is stretched.
The tip itself is a sandwich of two layers of leather with a small circle of hard plastic between them. A dime (approximately 10-50 penny coin) is the most suitable template for cutting out these leather circles. I cut a plastic circle from packaging or milk cartons (flat ones are also convenient plastic lids), tracing the dime again, and then cutting off the extra 1/8 inch (about 3 mm) inside the circle around the edge. Test the plastic to make sure the eye of the needle does not pierce it.
Most easy way To construct such a thimble, use both glue (Sobo or other white fabric glue) and stitching. A thin bead of glue is applied along the edges of the seam, acting as a tack, but stitching is necessary to hold the pieces together. I machine stitch the long tube (a regular needle works fine), but find it easier to sew the tip to the thimble tube by hand using a leather needle and double thread or waxed thread.
After sewing the thimble, fill the tail section with scraps of soft cotton or leather, gluing them all together. This will strengthen the tail of the thimble, which is usually pulled when you take it on and off your finger.
Finally, I have a thimble that really protects my finger and is so comfortable that I often forget it's on my finger. It’s true, more than once I left my workshop, forgetting to take it off.
Thimble pattern
Copy the drawing onto a separate sheet of paper and print. The size is given in inches (1 inch is 2.54 cm)
How to make a thimble to your size
All you need for this quick project are a few scraps of leather, a piece of hard plastic (cut from a milk carton, for example), some glue and a random short piece of elastic cord.
To make a pattern
1. Trace the full-length pattern and refine the fit on the middle finger of your dominant hand, adding or decreasing along the top seam.
2. Use a coin as a template to cut out two leather circles for the tip. Trim the edge 1/8 inch (3 mm) for the plastic circle.
To stitch together
1. Glue the top seam together along the edge. Let dry, then hand or machine stitch using a 1/6 inch (4 mm) seam allowance.
2. Place the plastic tip between two leather circles. Glue the leather circles together at the edges (“sandwich”).
3. Glue your round “sandwich” to the tip of the thimble tail, lining up any mismatched edges. Let dry, then hand stitch in the round twice (use a leather needle) with a 1/6″ (4mm) seam allowance. Only stitch leather layers, not plastic. Achieve uniformity.
4. Place the thimble on your finger. Mark 2 1/4 inch (6 mm) dots on each side of the seam and just after the first top knuckle. Remove the thimble and cut small holes at each point.
5. Cut a small strip of leather measuring 1" (2.54cm) x 3/16" (5mm) for the belt. Push through the holes, pull, overlap and glue the ends together.
6. As an alternative, you can use an elastic belt. Cut 2 additional holes 1/2″ below the top holes. Insert a 2-inch piece of elastic cord through the holes, stretch, overlap, and glue the ends together. remove excess cord. Close the cord by attaching a small piece of leather, gluing it on top in the shape of the cord.
7. Glue a piece of soft cotton or leather inside the tail area. Trim the remaining fabric around the edge of the thimble's tail.
Samantha Brenneman makes thimbles and sews in Bevin, Illinois, USA.
Photos: Sloane Howard, drawings: Christine Erickson.
Let's talk about the tools that are used in sewing work. Let's start by defining what a tool is and what a device is.
Tools– objects that perform a particular job (they perform the main job).
Adaptations– items that help (facilitate) the performance of work with tools.
Tools for hand sewing include scissors, hand sewing needles, measuring tape, and a thimble.
Devices include patterns, pins, chalk, a dummy, a ring with a knife, a peg, a ripper, etc.
There are a lot of tools and accessories for sewing. More and more are constantly appearing. This article does not cover all the tools that exist.
You need to be able to choose the right tools for the job. At the same time, they must be of high quality, since the quality and speed of the work performed largely depends on this. And most importantly, when working with good tools you get the most pleasure and good mood from work. When selecting tools, you need to take into account the properties of the fabric from which the product is made, as well as take into account the type of work performed.
Hand needles.
Needles have a number of dimensional characteristics. They differ in the thickness of the needle (by its diameter), in its length, they are also distinguished by the size of the eye. The needles are numbered from No. 1 (thin) to No. 12 (thick), which characterizes the needle by thickness and length. An odd-numbered needle is longer than an even-numbered needle.
Also, when choosing a needle, you need to pay attention to its condition. The needle should be sharp, elastic and unbreakable. It should also be well polished and free of burrs. The eye of the needle must be of sufficient size. In addition, the needle should not be rusty.
Thimbles.
The purpose of the thimble is to protect the finger from being pricked when pushing the needle through the fabric. The thimble is placed on the middle finger of the right hand.
Let's pay attention to the structure of the thimble. The thimble has a cone-shaped appearance. On the surface of the thimble you can observe small depressions that are arranged in a checkerboard pattern. These grooves are designed to prevent the needle from sliding across the surface of the thimble. Thimbles can be found both with and without a bottom. Usually, for manual work in light clothing, a thimble with a bottom is used, and for outerwear without a bottom.
Thimbles come in different sizes and you need to choose a size so that the thimble fits tightly around the middle finger of your right hand.
Scissors.
Scissors are used not only for cutting fabrics, but also for trimming various parts, as well as for all kinds of manual operations.
Depending on their purpose, scissors have different sizes and configurations of handles and blades. Scissors are numbered from No. 1 (the largest for coat fabrics) to No. 8 (the smallest for trimming thread ends), depending on their size and purpose.
Tape measure.
A measuring tape is usually a soft rubberized tape with centimeter and millimeter divisions printed on it. This tape is used to take measurements from a person’s figure, and it is also often used to measure the details of a product during the sewing process.
For accurate measurements, it is better to use the same measuring tape. The measuring tape stretches during operation, so it must be checked periodically.
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