Can natural silk become electrified? Silk - types of fabrics

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Silk – soft fabric from threads extracted from the cocoon of the silkworm. Silk originally originated from China and was an important commodity that was transported to Europe along the Silk Road. Fiber thickness is 20–30 micrometers. The length of the silk thread (mulberry) from one cocoon reaches 400–1500 m. The thread has a triangular cross-section and, like a prism, refracts light, which causes a beautiful iridescence and shine.

Currently largest producer silk is China (about 50% of total world production). India produces about 15% of the world's silk, followed by Uzbekistan (about 3%) and Brazil (about 2.5%). Iran, Thailand and Vietnam are also significant producers.

Story

Legends about the appearance of silk in China

Silk is a waste product of the silkworm, which spins a strong cocoon around itself. But who was the first (or the first) to guess to unravel this cocoon and twist the thread, and then weave the fabric? There are many legends about this in China. The most famous of them connects the emergence of sericulture with Leizu, the eldest wife of the mythical Emperor Huang Di, who, according to traditional sources, ruled the Celestial Empire from 2698 to 2598 BC. e.

One day a young woman was drinking tea in the garden, under a mulberry tree. And several silkworm cocoons accidentally fell into the cup. She began to take them out, the cocoons began to unwind into a long thread. Then Leizu began to pick off the remaining cocoons hanging on the tree and unwind them. She wove fabric from the received threads and sewed clothes for her husband. Huang Di, having learned about this discovery, improved the methods of breeding silkworms and producing silk. This is how sericulture and silk weaving appeared.

Thanks to her discovery, Leizu also began to be called Xiling-chi - the Lady of the silkworm and she began to be considered the patron goddess of sericulture. Until now, in early April, festivals are held in honor of Leizu in Zhejiang province.

According to another legend, the most fantastic, there once lived a father and daughter, and they had a magical horse that not only could fly in the skies, but also understood human language. One day the father went about his business and disappeared. Then his daughter made an oath: if the horse could find her father, then she would marry this horse. The horse found his father, and they returned home together. However, when the father learned about this oath, he was shocked, and in order to prevent this marriage, he killed an innocent horse. But when they began to skin the carcass, the horse’s skin suddenly picked up the girl and carried her away. They flew and flew, and finally landed on a mulberry tree. And the moment the girl touched the branches, she turned into a silkworm. She released long and thin threads from herself that expressed her feeling of separation from her beloved horse.

Another legend says that the women of Ancient China discovered silk completely by accident. They were collecting fruits from trees and came across strange fruits white, too hard to eat. Then they began to boil them to soften them, but they were hardly fit for food. Eventually, the women lost patience and began to beat them with thick sticks. And it was then that silk and silkworms were discovered. It turned out that the white fruit was nothing more than the cocoon of a silkworm!

History of silk production

Existing legends are just beautiful legends of antiquity. According to archaeological data, the properties of the silkworm and the secret of making silk were known already 5 thousand years ago. Thus, during archaeological excavations in various areas of China in the cultural layers of the 3rd millennium BC. Fragments of silkworm cocoons were found.

The first silk fabrics were very rare and expensive, so they were worn only by rulers and their family members. In all likelihood, inside the palace they dressed in white clothes, and on ceremonial occasions - in yellow ones. With the expansion of production, silk gradually became available to the court and then to wider sections of the population.

Gradually, a real cult of silk arose in China. Old Chinese texts mention sacrifices to the Silkworm God, as well as sacred mulberry groves and the veneration of individual mulberry trees.

Making silk fabric

Fibrous raw materials successively go through the stages of sorting, tattering (to loosen the compressed mass of fibers and partially remove impurities), soaking and further drying (to remove sericin). This is followed by several stages of carding (converting the mass of fibers into combed fly with oriented fibers), during which long-fiber and short-fiber toil are formed, used to produce yarn with different properties. Next comes the stage of twisting the threads, from which the fabric will be made later in the weaving stage.

Finishing silk fabrics to give them useful properties consists of boiling stages (in a soap solution at a temperature of about 95 degrees for 1.5-3 hours to completely remove sericin, coloring and fatty substances); dyeing; revitalization (treatment with a solution of acetic acid for 15-30 minutes at a temperature of 30 ° C to add shine and richness to the color (for dyed fabrics)). Optional: to obtain white silk, the raw material is bleached with an alkaline solution of hydrogen peroxide at a temperature of 70 °C for 8-12 hours; To obtain silk with a pattern, an airbrush application method using stencils (for single copies) or hardware application of a pattern using mesh templates is used. The final finishing for all types of raw materials is decatification - treatment with hot steam under pressure for several minutes to relieve intramolecular stress in the fiber structure.

Types of silk

The difference between natural silk and artificial silk

“Fake silk” is woven from threads derived from cellulosic materials.
It differs from the real one in less wear resistance, does not stimulate regeneration processes, lacks the ability to repel harmful insects, and is prone to electrification.

How is artificial silk determined?

• does not have an iridescent sheen, artificial fabric “glows” dimly;
• Unlike polyester fabrics, even the smooth appearance of silk has some surface imperfections;
• chill silk is woven from artificial threads;
• silk threads are dissolved in a warm 10% alkali solution;
• ignited artificial fibers emit the smell of burning plastic or wood;
• when clenched in a fist, creases with clear lines are formed.

Properties of silk

• Natural silk has a unique, pleasant, moderate shine that does not fade over the years. In the rays of the sun, silk fabric will sparkle and shimmer, playing various shades depending on the angle of incidence of light.
• Silk is highly hygroscopic (all silk fabrics absorb moisture equal to half their own weight and dry very quickly).
• Appearance of threads: white, slightly creamy, smooth, long (about 1000m), thin, soft.
• The thickness of the elementary thread is 10-12 microns, the complex thread is 32 microns.
• Silk is so light that 1 kg of finished fabric contains from 300 to 900 kilometers of thread.
• Silk has good mechanical properties: breaking stress is about 40 kgf/mm? (1 kgf/mm?=107n/m?); elongation at break 14–18%.
• In the wet state, the breaking stress drops by 10%, and the elongation at break increases by 10%.
• Silk is not very resistant to alkalis (it is quickly destroyed in a 5% NaOH solution); more resistant to mineral acids. Insoluble in ordinary organic solvents.
• Silk does not stretch or shrink
• Silk drapes beautifully. This property allows silk to be used not only to create clothing of almost any shape, but also for curtains, bed linen and other home furnishings.
• Silk's resistance to light is low. When exposed to direct sunlight, silk degrades faster than other natural fibers.
• Features of combustion: burns slowly, when removed from the flame the combustion itself dies out, there is a faint smell of burnt hair, the combustion product is black fluffy brittle ash.
• The production of silk is associated with high labor costs, which makes it one of the most expensive textile materials.

Application

As already indicated, the areas of use of this material are very extensive. Let's look at each of them in more detail.

Interior decoration

In the 90s of the last century, a new type of wall decoration appeared in European countries. For this, wet silk was used - a special plaster containing natural fibers. Wet silk was used in the decoration of elite premises. Now the wet silk look of decor has become more accessible.

Owners of entertainment venues should pay attention to wet silk. This material has an excellent texture, it does not burn or smolder, therefore from a fire safety point of view it is ideal. In addition, the wet finishing material is very beautiful and durable.

Tailoring

This is perhaps the most common area of ​​application for silk fabrics. Both natural and acetate silk, quite slightly different in properties. The fine silk fabric of plain weave perfectly accentuates the figure, is comfortable to wear and durable.

Parachute silk, which is highly durable, is often used to make wardrobe items. This type is also used in the production of various products: tents, seat and furniture upholstery, etc.

Home textiles

Beautiful shiny fabric looks great in the interior. It is used to make curtains, bed linen, furniture covers, bedspreads and much more.

Silk is an absolutely non-allergenic material. Dust mites and bedbugs do not breed on it. Therefore, this thin fabric is best suited for people suffering from allergies.

Medicine

Mulberry silk has the ability to absorb moisture to a much greater extent than other materials. However, it is not at all wet to the touch. Therefore, it is actively used in medicine.

It is an excellent suture material used in surgery. The suture type of matter does not dissolve for up to 3 months. Also, suture silk causes a minor initial inflammatory reaction in living tissue. Silk suture material is even used in ophthalmic and neurosurgery.

Needlework

This fabric makes excellent souvenirs. Mulberry silk or artificial silk is used in embroidery of paintings. When visiting the Vietnamese city of Dalat, tourists must visit the workshop of a family of embroiderers. There are very expensive unique canvases, hand-embroidered with natural silk threads on transparent fabric.

Buret silk (or other natural silk) is also used in knitting. Exquisite knitted items are made from it by hand or on special machines.

Care

In order for a silk product to serve for a long time and delight you with its beauty for many years, you must follow simple rules:

1. Silk scarves (scarves and other products) must be washed by hand, in warm (30-40 degrees) water, without pre-soaking, without bleaches.
2. For washing, use mild detergents for silk (such as Laska), neutral shampoo or baby soap. Pour water into a bowl, add a couple of drops (you don’t need much) of detergent, shake it until foamy. Only after this, lower the silk into the water.
3. When washing and rinsing, it is not recommended to rub silk with your hands, because The fabric is very delicate and can lose its beauty under strong pressure. Swirl the fabric in the soapy solution for a couple of minutes, lift it out of the water several times and lower it down. After such simple movements in a soap solution, the silk can be rinsed in cool water. However, during the first washes, slight coloration of the water may occur. Don't be scared! If the water remains the same clear, but is slightly colored, the product does not lose color. This is excess paint coming out of very bright products.
4. To refresh the color, it is advisable to rinse the silk in cool water with the addition of vinegar (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water). The water should be slightly sour. But you don’t have to do this. Rinse the silk and drain the water until no foam remains.
5. The silk must be squeezed out carefully, without twisting. Don’t forget that silk, even satin, is a very soft and delicate fabric! Squeeze it between both hands until the water stops flowing. After this, you can wring it out in a clean towel.
6. It is better to dry silk in a straightened form, away from heating devices, so as not to form wrinkles, which you will then have to wet again to smooth it out. The exception is silk dyed using the shibori method, when the fabric is specially given texture. After the final wash, it is twisted into a rope (not too much) and dried without unrolling.
7. It is best to iron silk while it is damp, because... Silk is smoothed better when wet with the hottest possible iron in the “cotton” mode. Natural silk is not afraid of temperature and will not melt like artificial (viscose and acetate) or synthetic (polyester and nylon) fabrics. On the wrong side, in the “silk” mode, you should also iron dyed items. acrylic paint and having a contour (convex) pattern. For reliability, it is better to iron them through a thin cotton cloth.
8. Avoid contact with silk products chemicals(perfume, cream, hairspray, deodorant). This can cause paints to lose their brightness or even become discolored. To prevent this from happening, tie a scarf after the perfume has dried.
9. Gently wipe sweat stains and other heavily soiled areas with alcohol.

1. To produce 500 grams of silk, you need about 3 thousand silkworm cocoons. It takes 12 hours of work to form a skein of silk thread weighing 250 grams.
2. Silk thread has amazing strength, it can withstand strong pressure and is very tensile. It was recently discovered that 16 layers of silk can withstand a .357 Magnum bullet (with a lead core).
3. Products made from natural silk do not harbor dust mites. Silk owes this property to sericin. Sericin, silk glue, viscous protein of natural silk. Most of it is washed out when processing (rinsing) the silk in hot water, but what remains is enough to resist the appearance of dust mites. Thereby natural silk absolutely hypoallergenic.
4. You can distinguish natural silk from non-natural silk using the “burning” test. As with wool, burning silk emits bad smell, and if the source of fire is removed, the material stops burning, and the thread itself then crumbles into ash.
5. 80% of all silk produced in the world belongs to China.
6. For more than three thousand years, China kept the secret of this amazing material, and any attempt to take silkworm cocoons out of the country was punishable by death. According to legend, only in 550 AD, two wandering monks hollowed out small holes in their staffs, where they hid the silkworm larvae. This is how silk came to Byzantium.
7. In India, silk appeared thanks to the cunning of the Indian king, who wooed a Chinese princess and demanded mulberry seeds and silkworm larvae as a dowry. Unable to refuse the groom, the princess hid the seeds and larvae in her hair and took them out of the country.
8. To create just one meter of silk, an average of 2,800 to 3,300 cocoons are required, a tie requires 110, 650 is required to make a blouse, and a silk blanket can require up to 12,000 silkworm cocoons.
9. If you unravel the threads of ten silkworm cocoons, there will be enough threads to cover Everest.
10. One of the most valuable properties silk – thermoregulation. In hot weather, natural silk “cools”, and in winter it retains heat perfectly. At the same time, silk products absorb moisture well.

Silk is a natural fabric that is not of plant or animal origin. It is obtained from the cocoon of a silkworm caterpillar. But there are also artificial and synthetic types of silk fabrics. All of them are distinguished by their unique shine, smoothness and strength.

History of silk

There are many interesting stories and legends about the origin of the first silk threads. Facts confirming the production of silk in antiquity date the beginning of its production to a period of about 5 thousand years ago. This is evidenced by archaeological excavations in some areas of China, where fragments of silkworm cocoons were found. Inscriptions of Yin hieroglyphs “silk”, “mulberry tree”, “silk cloth” were also discovered on animal bones and turtle shells, which date back to the second millennium BC. And fragments of silk fabric were first found in tombs in southern China.

Therefore, China is considered the birthplace of silk. For a long time, the Chinese kept the technology of silk production secret, and disclosing the secret was punishable by execution. Already in the second century BC. Foreign trade, called the “Silk Road,” actively developed. The Chinese sent caravans loaded with goods to the countries of Central Asia. At the same time, the secret of silk production came to Korea, then to Japan and by the fourth century AD. Exotic fabrics were also produced in India.

Despite the popularity of silk, the secret of its production reached Europe only in 550. Active production and trade took place in Italy already in the 13th century. And in the 17th century, France became one of the leaders in silk production in Europe.

Currently, silk production is carried out in many countries: India, Japan, Korea, Thailand, Uzbekistan, Brazil and others. But its largest supplier remains China, which accounts for about 50% of total world production.

Production Features

Sericulture is a very precise and delicate production. It consists of several important steps:

1. Obtaining silkworm cocoons. A female silk moth lays about 500 eggs. The eggs are sorted and tested, leaving only healthy ones. Within 7 days, small silkworms appear, which are fed with mulberry leaves, previously selected by hand and crushed. After a certain time, the caterpillars begin to spin cocoons, into which they completely spin themselves within a few days. Next comes sorting the cocoons by color, shape, size, and so on.
2. Unwinding cocoons. First, the pupa is killed so that it does not have time to hatch and damage the cocoon. After this, the cocoon is immersed in boiling water to dissolve the adhesive substance so that its threads can be easily unwound.
3. Creation of silk threads. Each cocoon produces up to 1000 m of thread. To obtain silk yarn, 5-8 threads are twisted into one fiber. If one thread ends, then the next one is screwed to it. Then you get a very long silk thread. The resulting product is raw silk, which is wound into skeins of yarn. They are then sorted, processed, spun again for better density and uniformity, and then sent to the weaving mill.
4. Fabric making. In weaving workshops, the yarn is soaked, processed and dyed. Then it is woven into silk fabrics using various weaves.

Types and properties

Natural silk threads come in different types. This depends on the country of residence and the conditions in which the caterpillars are grown (natural environment or artificial), as well as on the leaves on which these worms feed (mulberry, oak, castor, etc.).

Of course, the quality and type of thread determines the properties and characteristics of the fabric. And all kinds of weaves with the help of which are created different types canvases, they are distinguished by their properties, appearance, structure and other parameters.

Here are some popular types of silk fabrics of various weaves:

• Toile. For this type of natural silk fabric, plain weave is used. It has a soft shine, good density, and also holds its shape well. Suitable for ties, dresses, linings.
• Atlas. This is a silk or semi-silk fabric with a satin weave. It is distinguished by density, smoothness and shine of the front side, softness, and drapes well. Used for sewing various clothes and shoes, furniture upholstery.
• . This is a fabric of satin weave, often made from cotton or chemical fiber, as well as silk. It is distinguished by smoothness, silkiness of the front surface, density, and shine. Dresses are made from it Men's shirts etc.
• Crepe. This is a group of silk, semi-silk, wool, artificial and synthetic fabrics, which is made from threads with high twist (crepe). It includes: crepe satin, crepe chiffon, crepe de Chine, crepe georgette. It is distinguished by its roughness, slight shine, good drape, and also wrinkles slightly. Used for sewing dresses and suits.
• . Silk or cotton fabric, plain weave. It is soft, thin, matte, rough, and drapes well.
• Organza. Fabric made of silk, polyester or. It is distinguished by its rigidity, thinness, and transparency.
• Gas. The fabric has a special gas weave. It is distinguished by its lightness, transparency, tenderness, holds its shape well, without shine. They are used mainly for decoration, often for wedding dresses.
• Wild silk. This is a textured fabric, soft, with a muted shine.
• Silk DuPont. Very dense, not soft, but not too hard fabric, with a soft shine. Used for sewing curtains.
• Taffeta. This is silk or cotton fabric. It is characterized by plasticity and rigidity. It is used to make curtains, outerwear, and evening dresses.

Features of care

Silk is a very delicate fabric and therefore requires careful wearing and careful care. This is what is recommended:

• Wash in water no higher than 30 degrees. Silk is essentially a protein, very similar to the human epidermis, and therefore does not tolerate high temperatures.
• Use special detergents for silk products. Regular alkaline powder can ruin such a delicate product.
• At hand wash Do not wrinkle or rub a silk product excessively - you can ruin the structure of the fabric.
• If you wash it in a machine, then only in the “Silk” or “Delicate Wash” mode.
• Bleaching is not recommended - the fabric may turn yellow and wear out quickly.
• It is not advisable to use fabric softeners.
• The final rinse should be done with cold water and vinegar to remove any alkaline residue on the fabric.
• Do not twist wet fabric and dry it in a drum or in the sun.
• Iron the silk from the inside out, setting the “Silk” mode or not higher than 200 degrees.
• Do not allow deodorants, perfumes, hairspray or other substances containing alcohol to come into contact with the fabric. It is also best to avoid exposure to sweat.
• Silk products can be dry cleaned, but taking into account the characteristics of the fabric.

Despite the capriciousness and whimsicality of care, silk products are extremely popular and especially loved. The reason for this is not so much its properties, but the amazing appearance of the material, which is difficult to confuse with another type of fabric.

Silk is a soft and durable fabric with a pleasant glossy shine. The technology for making the thread is unique - it is obtained by unwinding miniature silkworm cocoons. The secret of making silk was known only in China for a long time. Despite the fact that the noble fabric is now produced in India, Brazil and other countries of the world, China remains the largest silk producer to this day.

Taffeta

The main feature (or taffets) is rigidity and dimensional stability. Petticoats and linings are made from this material. The Persians used the word “taffeta” to describe any woven material. Tightly twisted threads are connected in a secure plain weave.

Character traits:

• wear resistance;
• durability;
• pleasant glossy shine;
• dimensional stability;
• moisture repellence.

Due to the strength of the fabric, waxed taffeta was used to make balloons and cover the wings and tails of some early aircraft.

Taffeta can be single-colored, printed, crinkled and smooth, as well as with a large woven pattern.

Toile

The toile began to be made in France to replace the expensive printed Indian chintz fabric. The main feature is a color pattern printed on top of a plain canvas. Popular stories:

• floral designs;
• images of animals;
• pastoral scenes.

The weave of the warp and weft threads is plain. The toile is also made from natural silk. Unlike its cotton counterpart, silk is smoother, shiny, delicate and festive. This material was often used to cover walls in living rooms.

Chiffon

Chiffon-silk

Real silk chiffon is an expensive, elite material. Very light fabric, slightly sandy to the touch. The threads for creating chiffon are twisted tightly (as well as for making other light fabrics).

Basic properties:

• ease;
• color fastness;
• strength;
• hypoallergenic;
• hygroscopicity;
• antibacterial.

Among the varieties of chiffon are pearl chiffon, glossy satin chiffon, rough crepe chiffon, jacquard chiffon and iridescent fabric with a chameleon effect.

Chesucha (wild silk)

The fabric consists of a plain weave of fibers of uneven thickness. This material is produced either from the remnants of silk yarn and rejected fibers, or from the cocoons not of the silkworm, but of a butterfly called Antheraea mylitta. The material is dense but light. Unprocessed garlic has a yellow-brown color.

Advantages:

• affordable price;
• strength;
• hygroscopicity;
• aesthetic matte shine.

Casual clothes and outerwear for any season and climate are sewn from chesucha. The threads contain amino acids that have a beneficial effect on the condition of the skin.

Foulard

Foulard shawl fabric

This thin silk material is called garter fabric. The foulard appeared in the 18th century in Europe. Translated from French means scarf. The weave of the fabric is very simple and reliable - plain. The foulard is painted in various colors and decorated with prints.

Fabric properties:

• antibacterial;
• hypoallergenic;
• hygroscopicity;
• drapeability.

Foulard cannot be called very durable fabric. Curtains, lampshades, scarves and stoles, as well as accessories (artificial flowers, brooches) are made from this material.

Properties and uses of silk

Having considered different kinds fabrics, we can conclude that the main distinguishing feature of natural silk is its soft, noble shine. The fiber has a triangular cross-section and refracts light like a prism. Thanks to this optical effect, silk items look light, elegant, and resemble the smooth surface of water.

Flaws:

• required delicate care and careful work with the iron;
• silk should be protected from sunlight;
• high price.

Sewn from silk a large number of various products:

• women's clothing (blouses, skirts, jackets, trousers);
• dresses (wedding, evening, cocktail);
• men's clothing (shirts, ties);
• lingerie (corsets, panties, bras);
• home clothes (robes, suits);
• bed linen (pillowcases, sheets, duvet covers, and decorative pillows);
• curtains (lambrequins, curtains, drapes);
• household textiles (napkins,);
• lining for outerwear (coats, jackets, fur coats);
• furniture upholstery (chairs, sofas, poufs);
• decor and accessories (ribbons, hair clips, scarves).

Interesting fact: silk threads are also used as a surgical suture material for treating wounds and various injuries.

Subtleties of care

Silk is a noble and delicate material. Things should be protected from puffs, animal claws, and exposure to high temperatures. Silk requires care and skill when ironing. To maintain a neat appearance of the fabric, you should adhere to several general rules:

• Silk can be washed by hand in warm water (30 degrees), avoiding sharp twisting.
• IN washing machine choose delicate or gentle mode (depending on the model of equipment, they are called differently). Some washing machines equipped with a special “silk” mode. The temperature regime is maintained (30 degrees).
• The washed fabric should be rinsed in warm water (25 degrees). You can also add vinegar (five tablespoons per ten liters of water) - this technique will help enhance the brightness of the silk.
• The material can be wrung out by hand or in a machine, you just need to make sure that the process is gentle.
• Silk is dried in the shade outside or in a well-ventilated area - under the influence of ultraviolet radiation the fabric may change color. Things are straightened well or hung on hangers.
• The fabric is kept away from heating devices.
• Silk is ironed with a slightly heated iron. There are special automatic modes of the same name for ironing.

When buying silk, you should be wary of counterfeits made from viscose or synthetic threads. Artificial fabric has a dull shine and the front side may be uneven. When compressed, unnatural silk wrinkles and retains its crease shape. If you set fire to synthetic thread, it will smell like plastic, and viscose thread will smell like wood. When set on fire, a silk thread burns very slowly, smells like burnt feathers, and forms a gray ball at the end.

Despite the high cost of the fabric, natural silk clothing is very popular. It is considered prestigious and is suitable for everyday wear, office work, and various special occasions.

Want to know how fabric is woven? It's simple! A large frame is taken, nails are stuffed into it from all sides at the same distance, the warp threads are stretched vertically, and the weft threads will intertwine them horizontally. But you still need to tinker with the woven silk itself. It must be boiled in a soap-alkaline solution to remove any remaining sericin. To tell the truth, after boiling, silk loses up to a third of its previous weight. It needs to be weighted with special solutions. Each silk fabric has its own solution. We will not dwell on this. Just remember the oak silkworm. When boiled, sericin is not completely removed, the tissue turns out thick, with nodules. This fabric is called wild silk or tussa.
In general, the type of fabric depends on the weave of the threads, which is why silk has different names. Here in the treasured notebook everything about silk fabrics is written down, as expected, in alphabetical order!
Atlas. Thick satin weave fabric. The weft to warp ratio is one to five. It was first woven, of course, in China, here are the samples, look: light for blouses and dresses, matte on the inside, shiny on the face. Double-sided, heavy, this one is good for bedding. They make kimonos and robes from it! There is satin fabric for every taste: stretch satin, moiré satin with or without a pattern, in a word, there is a wide choice. Falling, delicate and smooth, it is no coincidence that it comes first in my notebook.
Barezh. Transparent silk of French origin, made using gas technology: warp to weft - one to one. Barege was used to make lingerie, decorate corsets, men's shirts, trousers, collars and cuffs. Later, spinning waste was added to the barge. The fabric, having lost its former shine, soon went out of fashion.
Velvet. Soft, fluffy on the front side, smooth and delicate on the back, take a look. Pile threads are introduced into the base, pulling out the loops - looped velvet is ready. If you cut the loops, it will turn out to be split, and if the pile is double and of different heights, it will be dug velvet. In 1652, the Velvet Court was created in Russia. Velvet was used to decorate armchairs and sofas, and to sew dresses and caftans. Sable fur coats were lined with velvet, it’s a pity we don’t wear clothes like that today...
Batiste. Fine plain weave fabric. The twisted weft and warp threads intertwine each other, creating a uniform texture. Without drawing and other nonsense, a simple and durable cambric was created by a wonderful master weaver - Francois Baptiste. Today cambric is woven from cotton; the cheap fabric is used for various types of products.
Brocatel. One example of patterned weaving. Woolen threads were woven into the silk warp threads, twisted with thin threads of silver or gold, following the intended motifs. The result was high quality fabric. Light, translucent, thin to everyone's surprise.
Bourdesois. Silk raw material from damaged silkworm cocoons. Used as weft in low grade fabrics.
Gas. Transparent silk, two warp threads intertwined in one weft. There are several types of gas, I will list a few without blinking an eye:
Gas illusion- the thinnest;
Gas-crystal- the most brilliant and bright;
Gas marabou- the toughest;
Gas-rice- the softest.
Dreams or grisette. Low grade silk with floral pattern gray. But the question is, what does the word “dream” mean? A poor girl from the working-class districts of Paris in a modest grisette dress.
Grogron. High quality fabric. The longest thread is obtained from the best silkworm cocoons and the standard of silk weaving is obtained. Thin and light. Fabric for the bride. One part of the word - "gro" - means silk, the other is the name of the place. That’s why grodeschin is from China, grondaver is from Anvers, grodeberlin is from Berlin, grodeflorence is from Florence, grodetoir is from Tours, all the same grosron, but with different textures.
Lady. Double-sided Damascus fabric, where the face is and where the back is, you can’t tell without a hint. Alternating satin and linen weave, like gorgron, has different names and origins. Damasse - satin large pattern on a matte field, the damask sparkles with the metallic shine of flowers on a satin background.
Damascus. Silk fabric of oriental origin. Copra weave was intended for church vestments. Lighter damask of plain weave was used for the clothing of the laity, damask lace was famous, and upholstered furniture was covered with densely woven heavy damask.
Diasper. Fine golden silk. One warp plus connecting and pattern weft.
Haze. Light transparent silk is embroidered with silk thread - each flower breathes grace.
Duchess. High quality silk satin, shiny and dense. In the old days, merchants had the number one product, popular and lively. Pants, trousers, and shirts were worn by dandy factory owners and wealthy Cossacks.
Jacquard. Double-sided shiny silk with a pattern is always at the forefront. Invented by Joseph Marie Jacquard. These are trellises, matlassé, and cloques; Everything is produced on a jacquard loom.
Kaioset. Kayoseti printed fabrics gained popularity in Japan in the 111th century. Unusual and original patterns were applied using wooden forms - manners. Printing was often combined with hand painting (flowers were accurately printed, a sakura branch was painted in ink, with the artist’s signature). Kayoseti fabric was used for clothing, while silk-rocketi was painted for screens using the hot batik technique, laconically and subtly. Japanese fabrics from ancient times and the Middle Ages still amaze descendants.
Crepe. Embossed, semi-translucent silk with and without a pattern. A warp of tightly twisted threads is intertwined with a loosely twisted weft. Crepe has many varieties and names: crepe maronne, crepe de Chine, crepe georgette. Delicate, light and soft, blouses and dresses are mainly sewn from crepe. Crepe de Chine chassis. This is a lightweight fabric with a peach skin effect. Do you have any versions about this? But strictly speaking between you and me, the fabric is boiled with sand in large vats. And here is the result!!!
Kese. Chinese patterned weaving fabric combined with brush painting. Many centuries BC, Chinese craftsmen achieved high quality - woven birds fluttering between skillfully painted leaves.
Lavable. This is a soft, flowing, translucent fabric. Thin, light, but highly durable.
Magnul. An example of Chinese weaving laws: silk fabric with the image of terrible dragons.
The fabric of the emperor, there is a dragon for everyone. And the secret is hidden in matter. Reed fibers were woven into the silk, and for softness, they were lightly rubbed with sand. They painted it with seaweed juice. Are there other secrets in this fabric? Magnul dress is credited with the power of three elements: water, air and earth. Air is the silk thread of a silkworm butterfly that has flown from the Garden of Eden. The water is seaweed, with the color of burnt gold it attracted me. Earth - reed fibers. No more exquisite fabric has been invented yet!
Organdy. Thin, very transparent fabric. Tough and shiny. Organdi was once woven for a sari in India, the homeland of Tagore and Gandhi. IN modern fashion- evening blouses, jackets - for clothes of different seasons, but mainly, of course, spring-summer.
Pavolok. This was the name in Rus' for silk brought from Constantinople during the time of the Prophetic Oleg. Home furnishings, church clothes and ladies' dresses were sewn despite the Khazar raids.
Brocade. Heavy silk with a rich pattern, woven in silver or gold. Brocade was expensive; oddly enough, it was imported first from Byzantium, Turkey and Iran. But the best brocade was made in Venice in the Middle Ages. In Russia satin ribbons and they began to weave brocade in 1594. Church vestments were made of brocade, but the nobility also paid attention to it. Brocade ruled the fashion world in the 70s of the twentieth century. But today, like yesterday, it is in first place in the collections of fashion designers from all over the world.
Petinet. Lace silk fabric - extravaganza floral motifs.
Plush. Velvet silk fabric, the pile is long, thick and fluffy, delicate and soft, like the fur of a cat. Curtain on an old painting, Teddy bear, and today Ksyusha also has a skirt made of the same plush.
Poplin. Dense, smooth, plain or patterned fabric. The name of the fabric was given by a French place. Expensive varieties of poplin for ladies were made from a high-quality silk base; silk tow in the warp plus cotton weft - and cheap poplin is ready for the peasants.
Reps. A dense silk fabric with a small rib, longitudinal or transverse, is formed due to the different thicknesses of the warp and weft threads. Silk reps were expensive and found only in cities, of course.
Ri. Silk from the durable yellow fiber of the cocoon of the peacock butterfly. Thin scarves - shantungs made of "ri" silk are famous for their bright colors.
Rock silk. Spun from gold thread with silk. Expensive royal fabric, handmade and fine.
Taffeta. Smooth silk plain fabric, sometimes with a “shan-jean” effect. The weave is simple - weft to warp, one to one. Due to the tight yarn, it is slightly stiff therefore. In Rus', clothes were made from taffeta back in the 15th century. Women's dresses, men's suits, handbags and berets. Taffeta is the oldest silk fabric known to man.
Twill. Thick, finely ribbed silk, especially good for pillows.
Florence. Silk fantasy of Florentine weavers. Floating fabric, translucent - fun for the rich.
Foulard. A thin fabric made from untwisted silk threads in a plain weave. Soft and lightweight for linens and scarves. Artists' favorite fabric for painting, without a doubt.
Chancha. Silk fringes were used, high-quality silk in the warp, flocks in the weft.
Chesucha. A shiny yellow garment without a pattern, made from a special type of silk - tusor. Currently at the height of fashion. Your mothers wore them in the sixties.
What a ballet. Hard and transparent, at first glance inconspicuous. But the decorators and costume designers fully appreciated the “cho”. Light clouds, a ballerina’s tutu, a stage curtain, a heroine’s cape, a hero’s frill and much more.
Silk. Natural fiber obtained from the cocoon of the silkworm; as you know, it was used to create fabrics, carpets, outfits... The length of the thread of one cocoon is two kilometers. According to Confucius, sericulture first appeared in China. Until the 6th century, its secret was kept secret; ready-made fabrics came to Europe. There are many varieties of silk: Lebanese birotin, Chinese pelums, French glasse, gauze, damask, muslin... The properties and appearance of silk depend on the quality of the raw materials, processing methods, type of weave of threads... and the imagination of the master!

I can tell you a lot more about fabrics. For example, have you heard of "shan-zhane"? This is a Chinese weaving technique, when different colors of weft and warp threads are used, the result is high quality silk, the color, say, blue, and blue in the folds. It can be taffeta and organza, shandung and dupont, one movement and the color changes, why not a “chameleon”. Perhaps it is produced differently. Chinese weavers are skilled people; they have always been able to keep secrets. If the warp is viscose and the weft is silk, then the paint alone will do the trick! Threads of different fabrics of different qualities absorb dye in different ways. What eccentricities! One thread turns out to be one color, the other - another. Everything is very simple, but so clever! "Maintenon", "pompadour", "dubarry"- antique fabrics named after famous favorites. It’s as if floral ornaments were embroidered on satin - bouquets of daisies. Vignettes, garlands of roses, plump angels in the thicket of vines. The rock ornament is in the form of shells and curls of waves, and every motive of movement is complete.
The favorites shaped the taste of the court of both Louis “the Sun” and Louis “the Lion”! One said: “The state is me!”, the other: “After us there might be a flood!”, and everyone tried their best. Try with all his might to outdo in wealth and luxury all those who ruled before him and, just in case, for future times. The most luxurious, even absurd, style was created in these centuries. Every little detail was subordinated to the style of Louis 14, from fabrics to table legs. Here's an example: the "Lavalier" bow, a tie knot, is famous only because it was tied around Louis's neck by Louise's favorite, Louise de Lavalier.
There were also “facial” fabrics: they were created in Tabriz, Kashan and Isfahan. Boys, girls, scenes from epics and legends, horsemen slaying dragons and lions; There were also frequent images of birds and flowers.
Not only clothes were made from silk, that's what you see! Thick damasks, silk wallpaper, carpets, lace curtains, linen, shoes, hats were woven for furniture upholstery and walls... The first paper was made from silk weaving waste, as well as cotton wool, which was used to insulate kimonos and robes.
Silk was used to make the cord of bicycle and automobile racing tires, strong ropes and thin cables... Silk thread is distinguished by its high strength - this is without any question.
At the dawn of the twentieth century, the development of aviation began, and the parachute invented by Leonardo da Vinci became a real sensation. Hundreds of thousands of pilots were saved by the silkworm - the mulberry moth, a guardian angel who helps everyone. In addition to pilots, he also saved other souls: strong silk thread has long been used in surgery.
And finally, I want to tell you about Chinese weaving: this topic is interesting, not only for the weaver. Examples of Chinese weaving art date back to the second millennium BC! These are the most different types of silk, from satin to organza, with different patterns, imagine. About 50 patterns existed during the Tang Dynasty: “butterflies frolicking among flowers” ​​enlivened the fabric; “lotus and reed”, “dragon and phoenix”, “peonies”, “water grass with fish”, “palaces and pavilions”...
Silk paintings are part of Chinese culture. Wen Zhenheng in his books, by the way, states that “an exalted husband cannot help but keep in his house, among other paintings, one or two such canvases,” on which landscapes of famous artists, and, in addition, a calligraphic inscription should decorate the canvas.

Until now, it is in China that silk of the highest quality is produced, which is in great demand all over the world.

Thanks to modern technologies, consumers have the opportunity to choose from an unimaginable number of silk fabrics, differing in the quality of raw materials, the type of weave of threads in the fabric, the method of processing the finished material and price. The latter can reach several tens of thousands of rubles.

THE MOST FAMOUS TYPES OF NATURAL SILK

CHIFFON

A very thin, delicate, flowing fabric made from crepe-twisted silk fiber yarn, with an uneven surface that feels like sand. Ideal for summer dresses, sundresses, tunics and light blouses.

READ HOW TO WORK WITH SILK CHIFFON AT BURDASTYLE.RU

ATLAS

If this word is translated literally, it will be “smooth.” Silk fabric in satin weave with a glossy front surface. The satin type of weave was invented in China. Smooth and patterned, moire, heavy and other types of satins are known. Satin is used for making scarves, ties, curtains, furniture upholstery, and finishing on expensive church vestments. In addition, wedding dresses are made from satin silks.

VELVET ON SILK BASE

Velvet is a pile fabric with a soft fluffy outer surface. The basis for the pile, which determines the type of velvet, can be silk. In Russia, velvet was first produced at the silk manufactory, back in the 18th century.

SILK LAMBISTE

Thin translucent soft mercerized fabric, plain weave of tightly twisted threads. It has high strength combined with lightness and transparency. The name of the fabric comes from the name of its creator François Baptiste from Cambrai, a French weaver who lived in the 13th century. Silk cambric is an excellent alternative to 100% silk, as it is much cheaper and easier to work with.

GAS

Lightweight transparent silk fabric, distinguished by the peculiarity of its production. Gas comes in plain and diagonal weave.

SMOOTH DYED SILK

Textile highest quality, from the best silkworm cocoons, producing a long, undamaged thread. The quality of the raw materials makes it possible to achieve very tight twisting of the yarn, but at the same time its weight is low.

DUCHES

Very shiny high quality dense material woven from silk fibers.

CREPE

Translated from French “crepe” means rough, wavy. Fabric made from silk threads with a very high (crepe) twist. The most common types: crepe de chine, crepe chiffon, crepe georgette, crepe satin. The crepe drapes well and boasts low creasing.

SILK VEILE

From the French "Voile": cover, veil. A smooth translucent fabric made from silk yarn. The veil can be bleached, dyed and printed, often with embroidery.

LACE IS A DELICATE AND DIFFICULT MATERIAL TO WORK. OUR TIPS WILL TELL YOU HOW TO SEW FROM LACE

MATLASSE

Natural silk fabric with a jacquard pattern similar to the stitches on batting. According to the manufacturing method and appearance, it resembles a cloque.

MUSLIN

Very thin, light silk fabric of plain weave, similar to cambric. The word “muslin” comes from the name of the city of Mosul in Iraq, where textile manufactories were located in ancient times.

BROCADE

Complexly patterned artistic and decorative fabric with a silk base, containing metal threads with gold, silver or materials imitating them. Gold and silver threads in brocade were made from pure precious metal only in ancient times.

TAFFETA

A glossy silk fabric made from very tightly twisted plain weave threads. Due to this, taffeta is a fairly rigid material, although thin, it holds its shape well.

CHUSCHA

Harsh clothing fabric yellow color, made from a special type of silk - tusor.

LEARN ABOUT TYPES OF KNITTED FABRICS AND THEIR FEATURES FROM OUR MASTER CLASS

All of the listed varieties of silk fabrics are obtained from the cocoon of the silkworm, the raw material for making yarn for weaving. This is completely natural material, unusually soft, delicate and at the same time durable.

The same names are also used to refer to synthetic “silk” fabrics, which at first glance are very similar to real silk. If you are an experienced buyer, you can easily distinguish natural material from artificial one. In addition, fabric stores that value their reputation and value every customer are unlikely to cheat.

But what about a beginner? Or if there is no marking on the fabric? There are a few simple ways, which will help you accurately recognize real silk fabric.

HOW TO DISTINGUISH NATURAL SILK FROM A FAKE

• Price is one of the first, but not the main distinctive features. Natural silk is always more expensive than its synthetic counterparts.
• Silk is very pleasant to the touch. Delicate, soft, flows easily and smoothly “flows” from your hands. Artificial is much cooler tactilely and harsher.
• Natural silk has unique thermal properties - when it comes into contact with the body, it acquires its temperature.
• Unlike synthetic fabrics, it is highly hygroscopic.
• The shine of natural silk is natural, subdued, and under different lighting conditions it changes shade and the color shimmers. Artificial has a characteristic shine, but does not change color.
• Like any other natural fabric, silk wrinkles, but only slightly. Soft folds are formed that are almost invisible and straighten out on their own during wear. The creasing of artificial silk is more pronounced - creases remain, which sometimes cannot be smoothed out even with an iron.
• Synthetic silk fabrics have strong flowability at the edges of the cuts.

THE MOST SURE WAY TO DETERMINE THE AUTHENTICITY OF NATURAL SILK

This is to pull a few threads from the fabric and set them on fire. When burned, they should smell like wool, burnt hair.

The ashes from such an experiment easily crumble.

While synthetic material does not burn, but melts, emitting an unpleasant plastic smell and forming a hard caked lump. Rayon silk smolders and smells exactly the same as if you set fire to a piece of paper. The ashes from it can be rubbed between your fingers.