• I am corresponding with a man from Morocco. Need advice! Life in Morocco

    08.08.2019

    1. The people of Morocco love King Mohammed VI very much. They know about his theft and new palaces, but he stopped the war in the country, and for this people are grateful to him.

    2. Moroccans love their rulers so much that in every cafe and store you can see a portrait of Mohammed V or Mohammed V, his father.

    3. For some reason, many people believe that Marrakech is the capital of Morocco, but this is not so: the capital is a city.

    4. National currency is dirham, 1 USD equals 9.97 MaD. This currency is among the most stable against the USD.

    5. With the change of king, the portraits on Moroccan banknotes also change, and a portrait of the new monarch appears on them.

    6. More than half of the Moroccan population are Arabs. Berbers make up about 40 percent.

    7. It is believed that the word “Berber” came from the French language and comes from the word “barbarian”.

    8. Previously, male Tuaregs had to hide their faces, and they had to kill everyone who saw him, in otherwise men killed themselves. Currently, this tradition is no longer followed.

    9. Many children begin to study the Quran at the age of 5 and do this until they reach the age of 12.

    10. A prayer room is required at any gas station or station.


    11. After Arabic, the second most popular language in Morocco is French. Also, many Moroccans know the Berber language, the written language of which is almost lost.

    12. Both Berbers and Arabs, both nations are traders by nature. So feel free to reduce the cost of the product at least 10 times.

    13. If traders are too persistent, you can always get rid of them by simply starting to speak a foreign language.

    14. In large Moroccan cities, market traders know the word “Humpty Dumpty” and some numerals in Russian.

    15. European tourists wishing to travel to Morocco must only fill out a migration card. But in order for a Moroccan to be allowed to come to Europe, he needs to go through many complex procedures.

    16. Residents of tourist cities regard white people as money bags from which they can make good money. The population of other settlements does not care at all about visiting travelers.

    17. In Morocco, the most interesting places are where tourists almost never go.

    18. Moroccans, as a rule, really don’t like to be photographed. This rule especially applies to women wearing hijab.

    19. Residents of Morocco can ask to be assistants, and then start asking for money for this.


    20. In tourist places in Morocco, it is often practiced to exchange clothes or electronics for Berber souvenirs.

    21. As a trick, when concluding a deal with a Moroccan, you can say that you “took him,” but at the same time ask him for some kind of souvenir.

    22. All leather products in Morocco have a certain smell. You shouldn’t be surprised, because in the tanneries of Fez the leather is pre-soaked in horse urine.


    23. Although Moroccan shawarma is similar in preparation technology to Moscow, it is half the price and tastier.

    29. As a rule, the general price level in Morocco differs little from Moscow.

    24. Dates grow on huge twenty-meter palm trees, so picking them is far from safe.

    25. In the oases of Morocco, the ripest, very large dates themselves fall to the ground from palm trees.

    26. The colors of the walls of residential buildings in Morocco are the same as the color of the soil on which they are built.

    27. Jebel Toubkal is the highest point in North Africa and the Sahara. This mountain, over 4 thousand meters high, is part of the Moroccan Atlas Mountains.

    28. The ski season in the Moroccan mountains lasts from December to February.

    29. Berbere whiskey is a strong drink made from green tea, mint and sugar.


    30. Berbers sometimes drink wine.

    31. Concrete wells in the desert are made entirely by hand.

    32. The water in desert wells is warm and has a slightly sandy taste.

    33. The cost of a dromedary camel, also called a dromedary, is one thousand euros.

    34. Many taxis in Morocco are Mercedes S class from the 80s.

    35. Most often, cars in Morocco run on diesel.

    36. In Morocco, four people can sit in the back seat of a taxi.

    37. Mopeds are common means of transport in Morocco. They can accommodate a family with two children and small luggage.
    38. Moroccan women, to avoid the heat, can wear several layers of clothing, often leaving black on top.

    39. Only very rich men can have several wives in Morocco.


    40. When people in Morocco hear about Russia, they immediately think of Vladimir Putin.

    41. Motorists stopping at traffic lights in Morocco can simply start honking. At the same time, they do not want to offend anyone, but do it with the best intentions, for example, to greet or wish peace, etc.

    42. Moroccans usually behave very calmly when driving.

    43. Children in Morocco play football well and are skilled with the ball.

    44. Football in Morocco is very popular and hotly discussed.

    45. Moroccan television shows Mexican TV series translated into Arabic. Usually it is men who watch them most often.

    46. ​​Beggars in Morocco take taxis.

    47. In Casablanca, slums are often located next to luxurious palaces.

    48. The fences enclosing rich houses are made of concrete, and glass shards are placed along the upper edge.

    49. The expression “Allah Akbar!” means “Allah is Great”, “Inshallah” means that everything is the will of Allah.

    Of the several thousand Russians now living in Morocco, 95% are women. In the small resort town of Agadir alone there are about 200 Russian-speaking women. Most of them are wives of Moroccans who studied at Soviet and Russian universities. Returning home with a diploma of higher education, and even with a light-eyed wife, is considered prestigious here. But the most interesting thing is that women, having moved to Morocco for their husbands, as a rule, easily find their place in a foreign country.

    This can be explained in different ways - by their own luck and patience, a fertile climate, mutual understanding with their beloved husbands, and even the liberal views of King Mohammed VI. A few years ago, the 52-year-old king initiated reforms that expanded rights and freedoms different groups population, including women. And with his own happy, monogamous marriage to computer engineer Lalla Salma, Mohammed VI demonstrates a lifestyle that is designed to bring East and West, tradition and modernity, together. Not everyone is able to follow his example. But the stories of Amina and Catherine, whom I met in Agadir, testify: love and mutual respect greatly facilitate this process of rapprochement.

    “I don’t make it to the end of any Moroccan wedding.”

    Amina, 46 years old, guide in Agadir

    20 years ago I knew only two things about Morocco - that it was a kingdom and the birthplace of oranges. But I was ready to go to the ends of the world for my loved one. By the way, his name is Khabib, which means “beloved.” And so in 1995 I found myself in Agadir, in his hometown. My husband is an engineer, he was offered a job in Casablanca, and I really wanted to go there. It's such a bustling, modern city. But Khabib said that he had been away from his parents for so long, seven years, while he lived in Krivoy Rog - he and I studied there together, at the same institute, but in different faculties, my husband in electrical engineering, and I in mechanical engineering. And now he would like to be close to his parents until the end, because they are already quite old.

    I had to come to terms with it. At first Agadir seemed small and suffocating to me. Krivoy Rog, although provincial, is a large, spacious city, and there are mountains around, I wanted to move them away. Or fly above them. But over time I got used to it, and now for me there is no better place. The climate here is mild and comfortable - not cold in winter and not hot in summer. 300 days a year sunshine. There are strong winds and sandstorms, but all this passes quickly. The ocean relieves all stress. If I feel bad, I take a walk along the embankment, soak my feet, and my strength returns.

    My husband's parents loved me very much and removed me from all household chores.

    When my husband proposed to me, he immediately said that he had one condition - I must convert to Islam. This was very important to him, although I have many friends here who were not given such a condition. And right after our arrival, we went to a local lawyer called “adul”, he confirms the acceptance of Islam and formalizes the marriage. In the presence of witnesses, I had to say that God is one and Muhammad is his Prophet - this is one of the pillars of Islam - on Arabic. Later, with the help of my husband, I learned the first surah, Fatiha.

    Well, then I myself gradually began to learn Arabic in order to read the Koran. True, this language turned out to be too difficult for me, unlike French, which I now speak fluently. I was baptized as a child, but I cannot say that the transition to another faith was difficult for me; on the contrary, with the adoption of Islam some discomfort went away. The postulate of the trinity of God in the New Testament confused me, I could not understand it. And with the adoption of Islam, the contradiction was resolved, because in Islam there is one God. At home we live according to Muslim traditions, but my husband never forced me to wear a headscarf. From time to time he asks me the question of when I will be ready for this. But he does not take violent measures.

    My husband's parents loved me very much and removed me from all household affairs. As soon as I started to sweep, they immediately ran up: “No, no, put it down, don’t do it.” They were just allowed to help. In general, this is an amazing, atypical situation: Moroccan daughters-in-law are usually treated differently, more often they are shouldered with all the work at once. And I was lucky. For some reason, my father-in-law and mother-in-law perceived me as an orphan and all the time called on my husband to take care of me. Khabib admitted that his father told him before his death: “Look, don’t offend her, she’s an orphan, because she has no one else here.” They have been gone for a long time, but they are very dear to me.

    Thanks to my husband's parents, I learned Berber because they didn't speak any other language. Whether you like it or not, you had to look for how to express yourself. And everything happened as if by itself. We are sitting with my husband’s nieces, I say a word to them in French, they say it to me in Berber. And I compiled my own dictionary. I didn’t even notice how I learned it. And when I start speaking Berber somewhere in the city, I see how the locals’ eyes widen in amazement - because many of those who were born here never learned this language.

    At home we speak both Russian and Berber - which word comes to mind first?

    Big holidays became a test for me. My husband has nine brothers and sisters, and how many more cousins! In Ukraine, my mother and I lived together in a two-room apartment, and in the house of Khabib’s parents we had to share a 5-room apartment with 10 people. And for big ones Religious holidays All the relatives gathered, including cousins ​​and aunts.

    I won’t forget the first time I had to meet such a large flow of guests and greet each one, at some point I felt uneasy, and I said: “That’s it, I can’t take it anymore,” I went to my room, locked myself and never came out again. . Now visits from close relatives no longer bore me. But from holidays, like weddings, where 200-300 people gather and party until 6-7 in the morning, I leave earlier. I have never attended a single Moroccan wedding until the end.

    It was very difficult for me to get used to the fact that the whole house was on my shoulders

    My husband and I love spending time together. At home we speak both Russian and Berber - which word comes to mind first. And our sons know classical Arabic, Moroccan dialect, French and English languages. The main thing is that we always have something to talk about. But it was very difficult for me to get used to the fact that the whole house was on my shoulders. At first I was angry, but over time we got used to each other. I stopped putting increased demands on my husband, and he stopped resisting any requests.

    In principle, helping your wife around the house is not a man’s business. That's how it is done here. Although it was my husband who gave me my first lessons in Moroccan cooking - in Krivoy Rog he himself cooked both couscous and tagine. It's all very tasty. But my favorite dish is probably mishui - lamb roasted whole in the oven. Actually, I don’t really like lamb, but mishui is a special, ritual dish, it is prepared only on major holidays. Although that’s not the only reason. I also love this dish because I am not the one who cooks it - it is traditionally done by men.

    “In this country I discover something new every day”

    Ekaterina, 37 years old, independent travel agent, Marrakesh

    Ekaterina Kozelkova has been living in Marrakesh for 17 years with her husband Abderrahim and sons Nizar and Adib

    My future husband and I met in Ivanovo, where we both studied at the institute, got married, my husband defended his dissertation there and became a candidate of technical sciences, and our first child was born. And then we went to Abderrahim’s homeland, Morocco. This was in 2001. I had no idea what awaited me. In Morocco, religious traditions and customs are not fanatically observed, but are observed on a daily basis, so the first thing I did when I arrived was read the Koran in order to understand what I had to deal with.

    But I converted to Islam only five years later, and then only in order to obtain citizenship. My husband takes this very calmly. After all, he lived in Russia for more than 9 years. And therefore, even here he is inclined towards Russian traditions. I rather stick to local rules so as not to stand out. At first it was very difficult for me. I didn’t know French at all, I had to master the language and take care of a small child at the same time. But I immediately decided to live here with my little son and my beloved husband and understood that my task was to adapt and not resist a way of life that was completely different from ours. After some time, I learned colloquial Arabic and French. And this helped to rebuild.

    It took me a long time to get used to the fact that Moroccans are never in a hurry, so they are often late

    The main meal in Morocco is lunch. And I had to get used to this. Breakfast is light - coffee or traditional green tea with mint and bun. In the morning, you must find time to buy groceries and prepare food for lunch. It is not customary to snack on a sandwich here. Lunch for a Moroccan is a full meal of two or three courses, with salad and a hot meat dish. Everyone returns home during the day, even schools work with a lunch break - children and adults gather at the table at about one o'clock in the afternoon, and at 2.30 everyone returns to school and work. And on Fridays for lunch we prepare a traditional dish - couscous.

    Since I work, our family moved couscous to Saturday, but once a week I definitely cook it, because my children and husband really love this dish. It also took me a long time to get used to the fact that Moroccans are never in a hurry, so they are often late. At one time I tried to fight this, because punctuality is very important when working with tourists. But it's all to no avail. Now I have changed my attitude, and life has become much easier: if I need somewhere by 9 o’clock, I make an appointment for 8.30, and the Moroccan will arrive just at 9 o’clock.

    Morocco is amazing because no city here is like another. My husband is from Casablanca and we first came there in 2001. Of course, I was delighted: “Oh, Casablanca!” I was looking forward to all this oriental romance, known from the Hollywood film. And I found myself almost in our Moscow - in a noisy, European city. Casablanca is the main economic city of Morocco. And the administrative capital is the city of Rabat, it is 60 km to the north, such a quiet, green city. Casablanca and Rabat are like Moscow and St. Petersburg for me.

    Morocco is a country of amazing geographical diversity and stunning contrasts. Not a single city here is like the other, each with its own twist. You will travel only 170 km north of Agadir and end up in Essaouira - there is also an ocean, a resort, but the colors in the city are completely different - not sand, but snow-blue, its own architecture, unique souvenirs made of wood.

    Fes, the ancient capital of Morocco, the center of spiritual life, is not at all like them. The first religious university was built in Fez, there are many madrasahs - religious educational institutions, the largest medina (old city), which has 8 thousand narrow streets - you will get lost there without a guide. And they also make famous people there Leather Products, sew babushi (famous Moroccan slippers). Fez is somewhat reminiscent of Jerusalem - even pilgrims come there. Morocco is a very peaceful country, open to all religions and nationalities. There are Arab Jews, there are Berber Jews, there are synagogues and holy places for Jews. Families of Jews, Christians, and Muslims often live side by side, in the same area, communicate and help each other.

    If the husband decides to marry a second time, the first wife must give written consent

    You won’t see polygamy here, at least among the middle and younger generations. Over the 15 years that I have lived here, I have made many Moroccan friends, and I see how confident and calm they feel, studying at institutes, working, and putting on a headscarf only when they want to. It’s not like a girl turns 14 and that’s it, social life is over.

    As you know, according to the Koran, Muslims are allowed to have four wives. But King Mohammed VI brought about a real revolution in Moroccan society: in 2003, he introduced many changes to Family code, which largely equalized the rights of men and women in the family. And if the husband decides to marry a second time, the first wife must give her written official consent. This is not the case anywhere else in Muslim countries. They are proud of foreign wives here, such mixed marriage It is even considered prestigious. Although, of course, there are families where there are conflicts and problems. I know families (but there are very few of them) that insist that Russian wives do not work and wear a hijab. But there are still many more successful stories.

    All Moroccans are very friendly, they love to communicate and invite you to visit them.

    I have many acquaintances among both Arabs and Berbers. Berbers are the descendants of the country's indigenous inhabitants. They have their own language (but different dialects), their own traditions. Arabs and Berbers are slightly different from each other. Arabs are considered lazier, while Berbers are considered more patient and economical. In general, all Moroccans are very friendly, they love to communicate and invite you to visit them.

    If a Berber family invites me, I know that everything on the table will be very tasty, good, but to a minimum. And in an Arab house they will definitely have a feast on the mountain. The Berbers, who converted to Islam long ago, observe all the canons of Islam. And in no document you will not see who it is, a Berber or an Arab. But still, the Berbers are very protective of their culture. They live separately, speak their own language at home, and marry Berber women. They are seeking to have their language legally recognized as an official language in Morocco. And I notice that even signs on the roads are increasingly written in three languages ​​- Arabic, French and Berber. And in some regions of the country, the Berber language is taught in schools.

    I don’t get tired of Morocco; on the contrary, I learn something new every day and never cease to be amazed by this country. But I don’t lose touch with my homeland. I was born in Rybinsk, on the banks of the Volga, and I am very proud of my roots. At home we speak Russian. My husband really loves Russian music and culture. My mom and dad come to see me, and I myself go to Russia once a year for a tourism exhibition. I inhale the damp Moscow air there, the smell of birches.

    By the way, I don’t have enough birches in Morocco. But I found a way out of the situation - not far from Fez there is the city of Ifrane, it is a mountain resort. There is snow there in winter, and in summer you can walk through the forest, and the houses are somewhat similar to Russian ones - with pipes and tiled roofs. And when some kind of nostalgia or sadness comes over me, I go there, take a walk among the snow-covered poplars and houses, and the melancholy goes away - as if I had been home. And you can again enjoy life and show Eastern hospitality.

    Islam assigns a very humble place to women in society. Muslim women did not have special rights reserved for them. The only exception should be considered tradition respectful attitude to the mother, and only because this is stated in the main book of Muslims - the Koran. The situation began to change after the Moroccans gained independence. The status of a woman was first somehow determined after the appearance of a special document - the Code of Personal Status, called Mudavan. For the first time, a provision was formulated about an ideal Muslim family, which was necessarily headed by a man. A woman could get married only with the permission of her father or guardian, and her consent was not required at all. This led to the fact that in the eighties of the 20th century, active protests by Moroccan women began to change their position in society. Following the example of other countries, they were created women's organizations, who were actively involved in this work, and the result was not long in coming. Women have now gained access to higher education, and up to 20% of university teachers are now women. They also have a prominent place in medicine, teaching children, and other areas. Today, Moroccan women are also represented in the country's legislative bodies.

    The name of King Mohammed VI is associated with the new edition of the Mudavan Code, which appeared relatively recently. Now the age at which a girl can get married has been increased to 18 years. The previous age was only 15 years. The father's consent is no longer required for marriage, and married women received the right to initiate a divorce themselves, if necessary. A child born to a foreigner now received all the rights of a Moroccan subject, whereas previously he could not count on this. The king is credited with the widespread development of women's education and the co-education of children in schools. At the same time, one of the important provisions of the Koran remains unshakable - allowing a devout man to have up to 4 wives. This position was justified in ancient times, when many men died in bloody wars. Today it has lost its former meaning. Moreover, not all of today's Moroccan men are ready to support even two wives. This is now quite expensive for economic reasons. In addition, a man can bring a second wife into the house only with the written consent of the first, and in this case a special court decision is necessary to enter into a marriage. The ancient traditions of the Berbers also played a role, mostly maintaining monogamy even after they adopted Islam.

    Iman Zaghlul - shatters the idea of oriental women. She lives in Morocco, does not wear a hijab, develops programs to protect labor rights and advocates for promoting equality in society. We met with Iman at the Labor Initiatives event and talked about how difficult it is for a girl to work on issues of equality in her country and what injustices women face in Morocco.

    Iman, as a person who works to protect labor rights in Morocco, tell us what is the situation with gender equality in the labor market in your country today?

    According to the latest Gender Gap Index data, Morocco ranks 136th. Ten million women are currently unemployed, despite the country's entire population being less than 40 million. And when it comes to the wage gap, on average, men in Morocco earn four times more than women.

    But is there any progress on women's rights?

    Let me tell you a story. In 2012, the public was shocked by the story of the rape of a 16-year-old schoolgirl. The Moroccan penal code included a clause that allowed a rapist to marry the victim and thus avoid imprisonment. That girl was forced into marriage by her relatives, who did not want the scandal to be publicized. Unable to withstand the pressure, she committed suicide by taking rat poison. Following this tragedy, protests and actions in support of women's rights broke out across the country. And in the end, two years later this article was removed from the code. So, indeed, the issue of gender equality is being raised in Moroccan society.

    A couple of years ago, we were on WoMo about the scandal surrounding a Moroccan TV program in which women were taught to apply makeup to hide the marks and bruises caused by domestic violence. What positive measures are being taken to solve the problem of violence?

    Just recently, a law was passed to combat violence against women. However, it is very vague and many important provisions regarding preventive measures and sanctions are not included. We recently conducted a study on the situation of women - it was an internal closed survey. I wanted to know what the situation with the infringement of women's rights really is.

    We learned that 50% of cases of violence against women are actually domestic violence. However, it also turned out that teachers and education workers are the most likely victims of violence. Who raises a hand against them? Parents of students and students themselves.

    The second point is economic violence, within the framework of which a husband can limit his wife’s resources. This type of violence, by the way, also leads to physical violence.

    Concerning sexual harassment at work, then women working in the private sector fall into the risk category, because they are often not officially registered and do not have any rights to protection.

    I believe that the gender issue, in particular the problem of gender-based violence, should be included in all sorts of important documents: labor and criminal legislation, workplace regulations, etc. And it would be advisable to pass a law regarding violence and sexual harassment specifically at work.

    Does your family support you in your activist work?

    My family is a family of activists, so I early years absorbed this spirit of rebellion. It's in my blood. Yes, I am a Muslim, but I do not wear a head covering. Morocco is not Saudi Arabia, where headwear is required. I am free and don't have to do what I don't want. But that doesn't mean I don't respect other women's choice to cover their heads.

    Do you feel pressure from society or family to become a mother as quickly as possible?

    Working mothers in Morocco have a difficult time - they bear a double burden, because, as a rule, it is the woman who bears household responsibilities. I feel pressure from society, they say, time is passing, the biological clock is ticking. But it all depends on the family. I am married, but I don’t have children yet, and my mother-in-law says that “there is a time for everything.”

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