Hello. I will create a pattern for a women's shirt based on the dress.
The shirt has a row characteristic features: loose armhole, wide sleeves, yokes, stand-up collar, cuffs. For me personally, a 100% shirt is wide with the sleeves down. Recently, these are quite rare and are passed off as shirts as blouses with dropped sleeves, stylized as a shirt. This is exactly the option I will do.
The shirt will be loose-fitting, without waist darts.
My foundation
I changed the color of the lines and moved the halves apart.
- I transfer half of the raster of the shoulder dart on the back to the armhole.
I have a 2 cm dart on the back. I place a perpendicular (approximately) on the armhole from the base of the dart. An incision is made and the armhole is moved apart by 1 cm.
- If you open it on the back, you need to open it on the shelf too. Without hesitation, I open the armhole on the shelf by 1 cm too.
If the chest volume is large, you can open twice as much as on the back.
- I lengthen the shoulder line by 1 - 2 cm.
- I shift the side seam by 2 cm.
- I lower the bottom of the armhole by 2 cm.
Values may of course vary.
- I'm drawing a new armhole.
I clean the drawing from unnecessary lines.
After modeling the armhole, I build the sleeve
You can model the base sleeve in this way:
Yoke
- I close the rest of the shoulder dart into a yoke.
I extend the dart to the yoke line.
I close the dart.
Transfer of chest dart
I draw a new dart line randomly from the base of the dart.
On the fabric, the dart closes about 3 cm short of the very center of the chest.
Shifting the shoulder line forward
The shirt is characterized by moving the shoulder line forward to the front. I transfer 2 cm.
Plank, bottom
From the middle of the shelf (in the picture below I made the middle line dotted) I set aside 1.5 cm to the fold and another 3.5 cm for a one-piece strip.
The bottom was raised at the side to wear the shirt for graduation.
Finished pattern
Pattern with allowances.
This is what I sewed using this pattern: straight dress- shirt. On the girl it looks very loose, this is because the dress is on me, and I took a photo of it on my niece. I'm a little bigger.
Your shirt is closer to your body. It is a basic item in a woman's wardrobe. It is not for nothing that this universal top for trousers and skirts is always included in professional uniforms. A fashionable women's shirt can be fitted or loose, of any color, with a pattern you like, completely repeat the cut of a man's shirt or be its diametric opposite. The style is limited only by the imagination of the hostess or the requirements of the dress code.
All that remains is to sew the shirt with your own hands and wear it with pleasure!
Step one - choosing a model and fabric
A women's shirt is much freer in the choice of model, fabrics and patterns than a men's shirt. But it’s still better to sew it from natural or mixed fabrics (a little synthetics are always added to shirt fabrics so that the product retains its appearance longer and does not wrinkle). Best choice will become poplin.
If you are going to use another fabric, then pay attention to its wrinkleability; you can check this by squeezing the fabric tightly in your fist for a few seconds. If the folds straighten out quickly, then this is your option. Crepes wrinkle the least.
The pattern also matters: small elements and beautiful stitching are better visible, they look better in laconic models and on large figures. Classic or can be used not only traditionally, but also boldly combined with other prints or creatively placed in the cut of a shirt.
Any silhouette is suitable for slim people, full figure It is better to choose a semi-fitting silhouette and opaque fabrics. Just remember that satins and shiny fabrics treacherously emphasize volumes.
For office options, classic (plain or with a soft pattern) and muted tones are best suited. Silhouettes are semi-fitted or moderately loose with minimal details and trim. Such shirts will best fit into the wardrobe of a business lady. By the way, even the most boring office shirt can be sewn with a removable frill, tie or bow tie from the same fabric and change the look depending on the situation. Women's shirts of can be used as clothing for special occasions.
If the dress code is not a decree for you, then the field for experiments is unlimited!
Strictly
Classic
Juicy
Romantic
Step two - pattern of a women's shirt
The most relevant thing is to sew a classic shirt of a semi-fitting silhouette with a stand-up collar, a yoke on the back and long sleeves with cuffs. You'll need a proven base of a fitted silhouette. All modeling involves transferring the chest dart into the side seam and modeling the yoke by transferring the dart into the armhole on the back.
You can find a suitable pattern in Burda magazine 2015-2016 Autumn-Winter.
Step three - cutting and sewing
Sewing machine with a straight stitch (or elastic if the fabric is elastane), overlock (or zig-zag stitch), good mood- that's all you need!
Before we open natural fabrics Be sure to wash them as they shrink! When purchasing fabrics made from cotton, silk, or viscose, add 5-10 cm for an emergency. For fabrics with a pattern, another 10-15 cm will be required to be able to combine the pattern or its most favorable location.
Allowances for seams and hems are 1.5 cm. We transfer all the marks (middle of the front, back, collar) to the fabric, mark the location of the pockets hand stitches contrasting threads (they are then removed).
We sew in this order:
- we duplicate the hem, make darts on the shelf;
- we process the details of the pockets and sew them according to the markings to the shelf;
- we connect the yoke and the back part, make darts;
- we perform shoulder seams;
- duplicate and assemble the collar parts;
- we sew in a collar or decorate the neckline with a facing;
- sew in the sleeves;
- we connect the bottom seam of the sleeve and the side seam of the product with one seam;
- we process and sew the cuffs;
- we bend the bottom of the product;
- we sew out the loops and sew on the buttons.
Collecting compliments!
Hello.
In this article we will learn how to build a shirt design.
Shirt-cut clothing is primarily distinguished by the parameters and configuration of the armhole. The dimensions of the shirt armhole are larger than the armhole dimensions of the basic dress design, and the configuration of the shirt armhole is wider and deeper. Therefore, the details of the shirt pattern - the back and the front - also differ in their parameters and configuration.
There are two ways to build a shirt design: use constructive modeling basic pattern dresses, or use the developed method for constructing a shirt design. In this article we will look at the second option.
To create a shirt pattern we will need the following measurements:
Name of measurements and symbols | cm |
|---|---|
Half neck circumference (Ssh) | |
Half chest circumference (Сг) | 40,5 |
Half waist (St) | |
Half hip circumference (Sb) | 44,8 |
Back length to waist (Lts) | |
Chest Height (Vg) | |
Shoulder Length (Dp) | |
Product length (Di) |
In this cutting technique we will consider two shirt silhouettes: semi-adjacent And straight. The shirt has a semi-fitting silhouette and suggests the presence of chest and waist darts, while the product is quite loose and dynamic. The shirt has a straight silhouette and has no darts, and the product itself is looser. As a result, the cut of these two silhouettes differs not only in the allowances for a loose fit, but also in some construction structures. To create a shirt pattern with a straight and semi-fitting silhouette, we will use the following allowances for a loose fit:
The increase along the chest line between the design details is distributed as follows:
Let's prepare a blank sheet of paper, the length of which is 5-10 cm longer than the measurement of the length of the product.
Drawing grid
Product length and width. Stepping back 5 cm from the top edge of a sheet of paper, draw a rectangle AA 1 H 1 H, where sides AH and A 1 H 1 are equal to the measurement of the length of the product, and sides AA 1 and NN 1 are equal to the measurement of the half-circumference of the chest with an increase for a loose fit (AN = A 1 H 1 =Di=68cm; AA 1 =NN 1 =Cr+CO=40.5+5.5=46cm). note, in this example I used an increase for a semi-fitting silhouette; if you are drawing a straight silhouette, then do not forget to substitute the corresponding allowances for a loose fit into the formulas (see the table above).
Armhole depth. From point A downwards in a straight line we put aside 1/3 of the measurement of the half-circumference of the chest + CO (see the table of increases) and put point D (segment AG = 1/3Cr + CO = 40.5: 3 + 9 = 22.5 cm). From point G to the right we draw a horizontal line until it intersects with the segment A 1 H 1, denoting the intersection point as G 1.
Back width. From point G we set aside 1/3 of the measurement of the half-circumference of the chest + CO (see the table for the distribution of the increase along the chest line) and we get point G 2 (segment GG 2 = 1/3Cr + CO = 40.5: 3 + 3 cm = 16.5 cm) . From point G 2 upward we will construct a perpendicular to the intersection with side AA 1, we will denote the intersection point as P.
Armhole width. From G 2 to the right, we will set aside 1/4 of the half-chest girth measurement + CO (see the table for the distribution of the increase along the chest line) and mark the point G 3 (G 2 G 3 = 1/4Cr + CO = 40.5/4 + 0.5 = 10.6 cm). From point G 3 upward we draw a perpendicular to the intersection with side AA 1, and denote the intersection point as P 1.
Waistline. From point A downwards, take the measurement of the length of the back to the waist and place point T (AT=Dts=40cm). From point T we draw a horizontal line to the intersection with side A 1 H 1 and denote the point of intersection T 1.
Hip line. From point T downwards, put half the measurement of the length of the back to the waist and put point B (TB=1/2Dts=40:2=20cm). From point B we draw a horizontal line to the intersection with the segment A 1 H 1, mark the intersection point B 1.
Side line. Divide the segment G 2 G 3 in half, denote the intersection point G 4 (G 2 G 4 = G 4 G 3), and lower the perpendicular from this point to the intersection with the bottom lines, denote the intersection point H 2, and the intersection points with the waist lines and hips - T 2 and B 2.
Auxiliary armhole points. Let us divide the segments G 2 P and G 3 P 1 into three equal parts, denoting the lower division points as P 2 and P 3 (see figure).
Building the back
Back neck cut. From point A to the right, we will set aside 1/3 of the neck half-girth measurement + 0.5 cm (for all silhouettes) and get point A 2 (AA 2 = 1/3Сш+СО=15:3+0.5=5.5 cm). Up from point A 2 we will set aside 3 cm (for all silhouettes) and mark point A 3 (A 2 A 3 = 3 cm). Let's draw the neck line with a smooth line, maintaining a right angle at point A.
Shoulder section of the back. From point P downwards we will set aside 3 cm (for all silhouettes) and place point P 4 (PP 4 = 3 cm). Now let’s connect points A 3 and P4, and on the resulting straight line from point A 3 we will set aside the measure of shoulder length + CO (see the table of increases) and put point P 5 (A 3 P 5 = Dp + CO = 13 + 1.5 = 14 .5cm).
Back armhole cut. Let's connect points P 2 and G 4 with a dotted line and divide this segment in half, and from the division point downward we will put 2 cm at a right angle and place point P 6.
Let's form a smooth concave line to cut the armhole, connecting points P 5, P 2, P 6 and G 4.
Back yoke. Let's put 8 cm down from point A and put point K (AK = 8 cm). From point K to the right we draw a horizontal line until it intersects with the back armhole line, and we denote the intersection point as K 1.
Down from point K 1 along the armhole line, set aside 1 cm and place point K 2 (K 1 K 2 = 1 cm). Connect point K 2 with a smooth line to the yoke line.
Constructing the front of a shirt with a straight silhouette
Shelf neck cut. From point G 1 up, we will set aside half the measurement of the half-circumference of the chest and place point P (G 1 P = 1/2Сг = 40.5:2 = 20.3 cm). From point P to the left we draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length.
Now from point P to the left and down we will set aside 1/3 of the neck half-girth measurement + 0.5 cm and mark points P 1 and P 2 (PP 1 = PP 2 = 1/3Сш+СО = 15:5 + 0.5 = 5.5 cm ). Let's connect points P 1 and P 2 with a dotted line, which we will divide in half and from point P through this division point we will set aside 1/3 of the measurements of the half-circumference of the neck + 0.5 cm and get point P 3 (PP 3 = 1/3Csh + CO = 15:5 +0.5=5.5cm).
Let's draw a smooth line to cut the neck through points P 1, P 3 and P 2, maintaining a right angle at point P 2.
Shoulder section of the shelf. Let's build an auxiliary line by connecting point P 1 with the upper dividing point of the segment PG 2 (see figure), on this line from point P 1 to the left we will set aside the measure of shoulder length + CO and place point P 7 (P 1 P 7 = Dp + CO =13+2=15cm). Please note that now we are considering the construction of the front of a shirt with a straight silhouette, so the increase in the formula corresponds to the increase for a straight silhouette.
Front armhole cut. Let's connect points P 3 and G 4 with a dotted line, divide this segment in half, lower a perpendicular of 2 cm from the division point and mark point P 8.
Let's draw a smooth line to cut the armhole, connecting points P 7, P 3, P 8 and G 4.
This completes the construction of a straight silhouette shirt.
Our pattern is ready!
Construction of a shirt front with a semi-adjacent silhouette
Shelf neck cut. From point G 1 up, we will set aside half the measurement of the half-circumference of the chest + 0.5 cm and place point P (G 1 P = 1/2Cr + CO = 40.5: 2 + 0.5 = 20.8 cm). From point P to the left we draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length.
Down and to the left of point P, set aside 1/3 of the neck half-girth measurement + 0.5 cm and mark points P 1 and P 2 (PP 1 = PP 2 = 1/3Csh + CO = 15:5 + 0.5 = 5.5 cm) . We connect points P 1 and P 2 with a dotted line, which we divide in half and from point P through this division point we set aside 1/3 of the half-girth of the neck measurement + 0.5 cm and get point P 3 (PP 3 = 13/Сш+СО=15:5 +0.5=5.5cm). Let's draw a smooth line to cut the neck through points P 1, P 3 and P 2, maintaining a right angle at point P 2.
Shoulder cut and chest dart. To the left of point P 1 we put 4 cm and put point B (P 1 B = 4 cm), down from point B we put 1 cm, we get point B 1 (BB 1 = 1 cm). Let's connect points P 1 and B 1.
Let's add the lengths of the segments PP 1 and P 1 B (5.5 + 4 = 9.5 cm), subtract 1 cm from this sum (9.5-1 = 8.5 cm), put the resulting value to the left of point G 1 and place point G 5 (G 1 G 5 = PP 1 + P 1 V-1 = 8.5 cm). Let's connect the points G 5 and B 1, the segment G 5 B 1 is the right side of the chest dart.
Now let's build an auxiliary line by connecting point B with the upper dividing point of the segment PG 2. Draw a vertical line upward from point G 4 until it intersects with the auxiliary line; we denote the intersection point as O.
To the right of point O, on the auxiliary line we plot the length of the shoulder with an increase for loose fit minus the length of the segment P 1 B and place point B 2 (OB 2 = Dp + SO-P 1 B = 13 + 1.5-4 = 10.5 cm) . Next, from point G 5 up through point B 2 we draw a segment whose length is equal to right side darts and get point B 3 (G 5 B 3 = G 5 B 1).
Down from point O we will set aside 3 cm and place point O 1 (OO 1 = 3 cm). Let's connect points O 1 and B 3 with a thin line.
From point B 3 to the left along a thin line, set aside the length of the shoulder with an increase for loose fit minus the length of the segment P 1 B and put point P 7 (B 3 P 7 = Dp + SO-P 1 B = 13 + 1.5-4 = 10 .5cm).
Front armhole cut. Let's connect points P 3 and G 4 with a dotted line, divide this segment in half, lower a perpendicular of 2 cm from the division point and mark point P 8. Let's draw a smooth line to cut the armhole, connecting points P 7, P 3, P 8 and G 4.
Calculation of the solution of darts along the waist line. From the width of the product, we subtract the measurement of the half-circumference of the waist with an increase for a loose fit (AA 1 - (St + CO) = 46 - (30 + 3) = 13 cm), the resulting result is the sum of the solution of all darts along the waist line, where
the size of the front dart opening = 0.25 of the total dart opening (13 x 0.25 = 3.3 cm),
side dart opening size = 0.45 of the total opening (13 x 0.45 = 5.8 cm),
back dart opening size = 0.3 of the total opening (13 x 0.3 = 3.9 cm).
Determining the width of a shirt along the hips. Now, from the measurement of the half-girth of the hips with an increase for a loose fit, we subtract the width of our product (Sb + SO-AA 1 = 44.8 + 4-46 = 2.8 cm), the resulting result is the amount of expansion of the product along the hip line.
Side cut. From point T 2 along the waist line to the right and left, we will set aside half of the side dart solution (we calculated its value a little higher) and mark the points that we will connect with straight lines to point G 4.
From point B 2 along the hip line to the right and left, we will set aside half the amount of expansion of the product along the hip line and put points that we will connect with smooth convex lines to the opening points of the side dart at the waist and extend these lines until they intersect with the bottom line.
Construction of a waist dart on the back. To the right of point T, set aside 1/3 of the neck half-girth measurement + 0.5 cm and place point T 3 (TT 3 = 1/3Сш+СО=15:3+0.5=5.5). From point T 3 to the right, we plot the value of the entire back dart opening and get point T 4 (T 3 T 4 = 3.9 cm).
We divide the segment T 3 T 4 in half, and through the division point we draw a perpendicular, not reaching 6 cm to the chest line, and 12 cm to the hip line, this perpendicular is the midline of the dart. Let's connect points 6 and 12 with the tuck solution points T 3 and T 4.
Clarification of the waist line and the bottom line of the shelf. From point T 1 we will set aside 1 cm downwards, connect the resulting point with the notch along the waist line along the side cut, maintaining a right angle at the point 1 cm. We will also set aside 1 cm down from point H 1 and connect it with a smooth line to the bottom line point along the side cut, while the angle at the 1 cm point should be straight.
Construction of a waist dart on a shelf. From the value of the segment G 1 G 5, subtract 1.5 cm, put the resulting value to the left of the 1 cm point along the new waist line and place point T 5 (1T 5 = G 1 G 5 -1.5 = 8.5-1.5 = 7 cm ). Let's connect points T 5 and G 5.
Along the new waist line to the left of point T 5, we will set aside the size of the front dart opening and place point T 6 (T 5 T 6 = 3.3 cm). Along the line G 5 T 5 down from the point G 5 we will set aside 6 cm, and connect the resulting point to T 6.
Divide the segment T 5 T 6 in half, and from the division point we lower the perpendicular, not reaching the waist line 12 cm. Now connect point 12 with points T 5 and T 6.
This completes the construction of the shirt.
If the shirt model has a button fastener, then the front must be extended along the neckline and hem line by the same distance - 1.5-2 cm and a new cut line for the front must be drawn. The resulting line is a half-skid line, and on the middle line there are buttons on one part of the shelf and buttonholes on the second part.
Fastener cuts can be processed in several ways:
Stitched strip ,
The width of which is twice the width of the half-skid, the length of the strip is equal to the length of the shelf along the half-skid line, while the upper cut of the strip repeats the cut of the neck of the shelf along the entire width of the strip.
One-piece plank ,
Its configuration is completed by extending the line of the bottom of the shelf by twice the width of the half-skid, and then a vertical straight line is drawn upward from the resulting point. The neck line on the bar is drawn symmetrically to the neck of the shelf relative to the half-skid line. When sewing a shirt with a one-piece placket, the placket itself is folded along the half-skid line to the wrong side of the product.
Supat clasp
It is a secret fastener; the buttons in such a fastener are hidden and are not visible from the front side of the product. The configuration of such a fastener is completed from a one-piece strip, extending the bottom line of the product to a length equal to twice the width of the strip. As a result, three widths of the strip are obtained along the bottom line; a vertical straight line is drawn upward from each width. The line of the neck of the fastener is drawn symmetrically relative to the line of the first strap. Along the half-skid line of the shirt, the fastener is bent to the wrong side, along the next vertical line the fastener is bent, and along the next vertical line the fastener is folded back to the wrong side and the cut line of the front (on the fastener) is stitched on the wrong side of the product. The fastener is built on only one part of the shelf, on which the buttonholes are located, and on the part with buttons only a one-piece placket is built.
In this article I have collected the entire process of sewing a shirt, as they say from A to Z!
The author of this miracle: Elena Kucherova is a professional seamstress. So, please don’t praise me too much))
What does the post include:
First of all, the easiest shirt pattern I have ever seen!!!
Next: sewing, transferring darts, video fitting, fitting, and many little tricks!
I wish you creative inspiration and good luck in realizing your plans!!!
Increases in looseness of fit for shirts
To begin with, I decided to give raises worthy of attention. Please note that we are now talking about sewing a dress shirt from non-stretch fabric.
I want you to not just stupidly follow the recommendations from various design textbooks, but to consciously choose an increase in the freedom of fit for your product.
Actually, why should we make increases to the measurements?
People tend to move, especially active girls like you, my dear subscribers. Well, let's not move, at least breathe.
Therefore, we can determine the smallest increase in freedom by measuring our chest circumference and taking a deep breath. I checked, 2 cm are added to the chest circumference.
That's it, we've determined it. The smallest increase in chest circumference is 2 cm. With such an increase, you will get the same shirt as the girls from the post “Always fashionable shirt”
But, if you plan to not only breathe in this shirt, but also move, then the looseness allowance to the chest circumference should be increased to 6-8 cm. We get a semi-adjacent silhouette.
For a completely loose shirt, we give an increase of 8 cm.
Now to the thighs.
The increase in the freedom of fit to the circumference of the hips (we move this area less intensively) is usually taken as 0.5 from the increase in the chest. But at least 2 cm.
I don’t give an increase to the waist, since during construction we make waist darts minimal, and remove the excess during fitting.
An increase in the width of the back (Ws) and the width of the chest (Shg) is also important.
To the width of the back you need to add 4 cm, to the width of the chest - 80% of the increase in the width of the back.
When you start drawing, you will understand how much to add to the width of the back and chest. It should correspond to the length of the shoulder and the overall width of the product in the chest area.
We add lengths only if you are sewing a very loose shirt. Then add 0.5 cm to Dpt (Length of front to waist) and Dst (Length of back to waist).
We will increase the width and depth of the neck after construction.
Building a shirt pattern
1. Draw a horizontal line. This is the waist line. We sign so as not to get confused.
2. Stepping back 5 cm from the right edge of the paper, place a point on the waist line through which we draw a perpendicular. This is the mid-front line.
3. From the waist up along this line in the middle of the front, we place the DTP measurement (Front Waist Length). Let's call the resulting point O.
4. To point O we draw a perpendicular to the left.
5. Along this perpendicular we plot the value Osh (Neck circumference): 6. Let’s call the resulting point Ш.
6. Down from point O we set the depth of the neck. It is 1 cm larger than the width.
7. Further to the left of point Ш we place the measurement Дп (Shoulder length). We call point P.
8. From point P down, set aside 4 cm for the shoulder bevel. Let's call the point P1.
9. Draw line ШП1. Extend a little beyond point P1.
10. From the waist down along the middle line of the front, set aside the value of O (hip circumference): 5.
Draw a perpendicular to the left from the resulting point. This is the hip line. Let's sign.
That is, the distance from the waist line to the hip line is calculated using the formula Ob:5.
Back
1. From the middle of the front along the hip line, set aside the value of Ob (hip circumference) plus the increase in the hips: 2.
From the resulting point we draw a perpendicular upward. This is the line of the middle of the back.
2. Along the line of the middle of the back up from the waist, we put aside the measurement Dst (Length of the back to the waist). We call the resulting point O1.
3. From point O1 to the right we draw a perpendicular. We set aside the value Osh (Neck circumference): 6. Place point Ш1.
4. Place 2 cm down from point O1. This is the depth of the neck.
5. From point Ш1 to the right, set aside the measurement Дп (Shoulder Length) plus 1 cm for fit. Let's call the point P2.
6. From point P2 downwards we set aside 3 cm for the bevel of the shoulder. We get point P3.
7. Draw line Ш1 П3. Place the measurement Dp + 1 on it again.
8. We check whether the measurement in the drawing corresponds to Vpk (the height of the shoulder is oblique). If it’s more, leave it until you try it on. The main thing is not less. If less, then reduce the shoulder bevel (distance P2 P3).
9. From the waist line, place the measurement Wb (Side Height) up. Draw a line from the middle of the back to the middle of the front. Let’s label it “chest line.”
We calculate the width of the shelf and back along the chest line.
Og2 (chest girth 2) plus the increase in the chest divided by 4. Now add 2 cm to the front, and subtract 2 cm from the back.
For example, Og2 is 100 cm. Plus an increase in the chest of 8 cm.
It turns out (100+8):4=27. The width of the shelf will be 27+2=29. Back width 27−2=25.
We set aside the resulting values along the chest line.
Let's call the resulting point of the shelf width Bp, the back width - Bs. They will still be useful to us.
At the waist line we make the shelf and back 1-1.5 cm narrower than these parts at chest level.
We set aside the resulting values along the waist line.
We calculate the width of the shelf and back along the hip line.
It is calculated in the same way as for the chest.
About (hip circumference) plus the increase at the hips divided by 4. Add 2 cm to the front, subtract 2 cm from the back.
We set aside the resulting values along the hip line.
Draw a side line by connecting the corresponding points on the line of the chest, waist and hips.
Let's build a shelf.
1. From the line of the middle of the shelf, draw a parallel line at a distance Cg (Center of the chest): 2.
Let this line start from the hip line and end at the shoulder line.
At the intersection of this line with the shoulder line, let's put point G1.
2. From point G1 down to the resulting line, set aside the measurement Bg (chest height). Let's call point G.
3. From point G1, we put the value (Og2− Or1)+5 to the left along the shoulder line. Let's call the point G2. We connect points G2 and G. The result is a chest dart.
4. Fold the paper, closing the dart. With the dart closed, we continue the shoulder line from point W through point G1.
5. Place the measurement Dp (Shoulder Length) on the new shoulder line.
6. With the dart closed, set aside the measurement W (chest width) plus the increase. We draw a line for marking this measurement in the middle between the neck depth and the side height line.
7. Draw a smooth line from the point of the end of the shoulder, through the width of the front to the point Bp. This is the armhole line. This is where we will sew in the sleeve.
8. Check that the armhole line makes a right angle with the shoulder line. If not, adjust without reducing the length of the shoulder.
9. From point G down, set aside 2 cm. This is the beginning of the waist dart of the front. The end of this dart will be at the hip line. Set aside 1 cm at the waist on both sides of this dart. Draw a dart.
Let's finish the back.
1. Place the measurement Shs (Back Width) plus the increase in the middle between the neck depth and the side height line.
2. Draw a smooth line through points P3, the width of the back to point Bs.
3. Parallel to the line of the middle of the back, at a distance equal to Cg (Center of the chest): 2 −1. draw a line. This is the line of the waist dart on the back. It goes from the hip line to the side height line.
4. On the waist line from this line, set aside 1 cm in both directions. This is enough before trying on. We connect all sides of the dart.
The drawing is almost ready. It remains to make small adjustments specifically for the shirt.
1. Deepen and widen the neckline by 1 cm on the shelf and on the back. This is to avoid being suffocated by the collar.
2. Draw another line parallel to the line of the middle of the front at a distance of 6 cm. Our shirt will be fastened with a placket.
Look like that's it.
Now the important thing! We measure and check the drawing for compliance with the measurements.
We transfer the dart
For a checked shirt, we cannot leave the chest dart on the front where it is - in the shoulder seam. It is necessary to move the dart to the side seam. There, the cell displacement will be less noticeable. 
This is done simply: draw a line from the side seam (start 5-7 cm below the armhole) to the starting point of the dart. We cut the pattern along this line, open a new dart, while simultaneously closing the old one. The only thing is to make the new dart 2 cm shorter.
Here is a picture of my cut. The new starting point of the dart is marked with a pink line. 
If you want, you can cut out yokes on the shelves and/or back. Simply draw the desired yoke line on the pattern and cut.
Everything else is in order, you can start cutting.
It is, of course, more convenient to use full pattern shirts, not half. If you are not too lazy, then finish drawing the second half of the back.
When cutting plaid fabric, we will take into account the following rules:
We place the most noticeable stripes in the middle of the main parts, sleeves, yokes and collars.
We place the dominant transverse stripes at the bottom or along the sleeve.
Do not place bright stripes at chest, waist or hip level - they expand the silhouette.
The transverse stripes must match at the seams. It is easier to combine the cells if you lay out adjacent parts side by side when cutting. You can focus on the bottom, or along the waistline.
It’s luxurious when the checks on the shoulder seams match.
The pattern on the pockets and flaps must match the pattern of the parts on which they are located. If you don’t want to suffer, cut out small details and yokes at an angle of 45 degrees. By the way, this will decorate the shirt.
If you do cut the fabric by folding it in half, pin it often and often to avoid shifting.
Important!
Having pinned the parts onto the fabric, check again the coincidence of the cells, the direction of the grain, and the seam allowances.
Construction of a sleeve pattern
Now about the sleeve.
1. Draw two perpendicular lines. Let's call the intersection point O
2. Calculate the height of the rim. Measure the length of the armholes of the front and back, fold and divide by 3. For a shirt, subtract 1 from this number. For a short wide sleeve - 2 cm.
3. Set the resulting value up from point O. We get point O1
4. Calculate the width of the sleeve: shoulder girth (Op) plus an increase in freedom of fit. For a shirt it is 6-8 cm.
5. We put the resulting value equally in both directions from point O. We call the resulting points P and C
6. Connect P with O1, C with O1.
7. Divide PO1 in half, and the resulting segments in half.
8. Divide CO1 in half, the resulting segments in half again.
9. We draw a curve from point P to point O1 with a deflection of 1.5-2 cm in the first half, and 1.5 cm in the second half.
10. Draw a curve from point C to point O1 with a deflection of 1 cm in the first half, and 1.5 cm in the second half.
Look at the drawing. I marked all these deflections and “bends” in the drawing with the corresponding numbers.
11. Set aside the length of the sleeve from point O1 down. Let's call it point H
12. On both sides of H, distribute the width of the sleeve at the bottom equally in half.
13. Connect the resulting points with P and C, respectively.
14. We measure the size of the edge of the front part of the sleeve. This is the PO1 curve. Compare with the size of the shelf armhole.
15. We measure the size of the back part of the sleeve. This is the CO1 curve. Compare with the size of the back armhole.
If the back part of the sleeve cap corresponds to the back armhole, and the front part of the sleeve cap corresponds to the front armhole, then that’s it, the sleeve is ready.
Most often, the front armhole is smaller than the back armhole. Consequently, the collar of the front sleeve should be smaller. We measure how many centimeters the difference is and cut off half of this difference from the front of the sleeve, and add it to the back of the sleeve. Look at the drawing. The new outline is turquoise.
When I build on paper, I directly cut off a strip from the front of the sleeve and glue it to the back.
Cutting out, sweeping away the details
Trying on a shirt
Where to start sewing a shirt after trying it on
After fitting, we make changes to the cut. First, go to the pattern, you will most likely need it again, and then to the cut.
Let's start sewing:
1. If there are yokes, we sew them to the main parts
2. Sew darts (chest and waist)
3. We process the middle cut of the shelf with a plank
4. Sew the shoulder seams, matching the pattern, and process the cut
I’ll tell you a little more about the bar.
Remember when we added 6 cm to the middle of the shelf?
The simplest thing is to turn the middle section inside out by 1 cm and turn it again by 3.5 cm. Baste and stitch along the face. That's the whole plank. You can also topstitch it along the edge.
Further:
You can already decide on the size of pockets and flaps and cut them out.
The top of the pocket is finished with an overlog or hem stitch with a closed cut. The side and bottom edges of the pockets are folded and basted.
We glue the top flap of the pocket with non-woven material.
We fold the upper and lower flaps face to face, chop or sweep them together, and grind them down as usual. We trim the seam allowances step by step and cut out the corners.
Try on the shirt and decide on the location of the pockets and flaps. Baste and stitch them.
How to sew a stand-up collar
We place the pattern of the collar and stand on the fabric folded in half, observing the direction of the grain thread and according to the pattern of the fabric, we trace it once along the contour, the second time with seam allowances. We cut it out. We check that there are 2 parts of the collar and 2 parts of the stand.
The upper collar and the upper part of the stand are duplicated with non-woven fabric.
First, fold the collar pieces face to face
we chop off
Sew down the collar parts, stitch along the smaller bottom part
we make step trimming to reduce the thickness of the seam allowances
trim the allowances at the corners
turn it inside out
sweep out
fold the collar in half - check the “sameness” of the left and right corners
stitch along the edge or on the foot
ironing
Here is a photo where you can clearly see the roll of the front part to the wrong side. 
Next stage:
We pin the stand to the collar and stitch it in place.
Please note: we apply the inner side of the stand to the front side of the collar, and the outer side to the back side. For accuracy, we start chopping from the middle.
Trim the seam allowances of the stand in steps 
Turn it inside out
sweep out
we check for the “sameness” of the left and right sides
Here is the collar I ended up with. I made the bottom of the collar and stand from a different fabric. 
We apply the collar stand with the outer side to the front part of the shirt, pin it with pins, and stitch it.
We pin the inner side of the stand to the wrong side of the shirt, carefully baste it, and stitch it. 
Consider a ready-made men's shirt. Do you see how neatly the stand is sewn to the neck?
Do you think it’s all about the professionalism of the seamstresses? Not only. There is little secret. Now I will tell it to you.
Before attaching the stand to the collar, a fold to the width of the allowance is made on the inner part of the stand. The allowance with which the stand is stitched to the neck is folded. It needs to be swept or sewn inside out. We begin to process the stand with the fold already made.
This will allow you to carefully and easily stitch the stand to the neck in the future.
Finishing the shirt sewing
If you have sleeves, then:
Pin and stitch the sleeves, matching the midpoint of the sleeve hem and the shoulder seam.
Sew the side seam and the sleeve seam in the same stitch.
I have a sleeveless shirt and the armholes will be finished with a facing.
If you also sew a sleeveless shirt, then:
Cut out a roll (bias tape) 4 cm wide. Fold it in half, baste it in this way to secure it.
Pin, stitch the rib to the armhole along the face 
Turn inside out, baste, stitch carefully along the edge of the roll 
Iron
Are your pockets ready yet?
No? Let's get ready.
Overlay the top of the pocket, turn it inside out, and stitch. Fold the remaining sides of the pocket inside out and baste. Pin the finished pockets into place, baste, stitch.
Place the cut out flaps face to face. Pin together, making a slight overlap of the upper part of the valve onto the lower one, so that later you get a nice roll, stitch.
Trim the seam allowances in steps and trim the corners. 
Turn it inside out and sweep it out, rolling the top part of the flap onto the bottom. Stitch the pocket flap “edge” or “on the foot”. Iron. Pin the valves in place and stitch.
Sew side seams, overlay
Secure the seam allowance with a few stitches in the armpit area towards the front.
Overlay the bottom of the shirt, tuck 1 cm, baste, stitch.
Place loops and sew buttons.
2018-04-26 Maria Novikova
For beginner tailors, it seems difficult to sew a men's shirt. Therefore, we have to abandon the idea of sewing a shirt with our own hands. Just imagine how many options for men's shirt models you can sew yourself. From classical to historical. In this master class I will tell you how to sew a men's shirt in the style of the 19th century. This sewing technology will help you sew not only historical, but also modern model. Based on it, you will step-by-step master the knowledge and experience of sewing men's shirts with long sleeve.
You will need:
- Main fabric (staple or cotton fabric) – 1.80 – 2.0 m.
- Interlining adhesive collar fabric – 20.0 cm.
- Interlining woven adhesive fabric - 20.0 cm.
- Buttons – 9 – 10 pcs.
- Threads – 4 pcs.
- Tailor's pins and other sewing supplies.
- Sewing machine, overlock, iron.
Model selection
The style of the shirt was not chosen by chance. This is exactly the model the groom needed for themed wedding in the style of Jen Austen. At that time, the romantic style of clothing was popular. Men wore loose, long shirts or chemises with puffy sleeves and high, starched collars.
A neckerchief was tied several times around the collar. In front, its ends were tied into a bow or a large knot. The high collar and multi-layered scarf sometimes led to the fact that half of the face was buried in this abundance. At that time, a white starched collar, a casually tied scarf and an elegant brooch were considered a sign of style and good taste.
Read more about the men's neckerchief and how it is worn in modern world, read .
My client wanted a Romantic era style shirt in his wardrobe to match the bride and her Empire style dress. This is how the idea of creating a historical 19th century shirt using modern materials and technology.
Material selection
The fabric chosen for sewing the shirt was staple (this cotton fabric with elastane). There were also stretch cotton contenders, but this fabric wrinkles a lot. The staple drapes perfectly, which suits this model perfectly, and it doesn’t wrinkle so much. It is pleasant, gentle on the body and almost weightless.
For the cuffs, yoke, collar and trims we had to use a different fabric, regular cotton, which matched the shade. The fact is that the store had the last piece of staple left, and it was only enough for the main parts. Therefore, it was decided to take the last scrap and ordinary cotton for small parts. Moreover, its dense structure is just what is needed to give clear shapes to details.
For the collar pad, I chose thick collar adhesive fabric. Thanks to its dense structure, it will give the collar a rigid look, and there will be no need to starch the collar.
For the cuffs and trims I used adhesive woven fabric. It is denser than regular “gauze” adhesive and holds its shape remarkably well. The structure of this fabric resembles gabardine with adhesive crumbs applied on top. It works wonderfully, does not come off and does not require the use of an ironing iron.
Cut the shirts
Cut details:
- Shelf – 2 parts.
- Back – 2 parts (due to lack of fabric, it can be made whole).
- Yoke – 2 parts.
- Sleeve – 2 parts.
- Cuff – 2 parts.
- Gasket for cuff – 2 parts.
- Plank – 2 parts.
- Gasket for the strip – 2 parts.
- Collar – 2 parts.
- Collar pad – 1 piece.
- Collar stand – 2 parts.
- Collar stand – 1 piece.
Description of the model: men's shirt in the style of the 19th century, made of cotton, white fabric, loose fit. The back and shelves at the top are gathered into a yoke, this gives the product additional volume and also serves as decoration. Sleeves, elongated at the cuff, are loose due to gathering at the hem and bottom. The shirt's clasp is finished with button straps, and the collar is shaped on a stand-up collar.
- Draw a yoke line on the back and shelf pattern. On the back the yoke will be wider than on the shelf: the width of the yoke on the shelf is 2.0 - 3.0 cm, on the back 10.0 - 12.0 cm.
- Cut along the marked lines (it is better to make a duplicate of the pattern in advance).
- On men's shirts, the shoulder seam is shifted to the shelf (there is no such seam). Take the back and front yoke parts and glue them along the shoulder seam. You will receive a finished yoke piece for the back and front without a shoulder seam.
- To get a gather on the back and front, add 4.0 - 6.0 cm at the top of the armhole to the side and move it smoothly down. You will find how to model a sleeve with gathering at the edge and bottom in my previous article.
- Lay out the finished patterns on the fabric, trace and add allowances:
- side, shoulder seams, middle seam, armholes, hem and sleeve seam - 1.0 - 1.5 cm;
- the upper cut of the shelf, back and yoke – 1.0 cm;
- neck, sides and bottom of sleeves – 0.7 cm;
- bottom of the product – 1.5 – 2.0 cm.
6. Remove the pattern, check the length/width of the product and sleeves. If everything is correct, cut out the parts taking into account the allowances. At this stage, small details (collar, placket, cuffs) are not cut out, but their mock-ups are made. Since during fitting, changes may occur, and then the cut out parts will have to be redone.
Sewing technology for men's shirts
Before you start sewing, you need to check the availability of cut details. If everything is correct, then you can start sewing men's shirts. In individual tailoring, after cutting, the first fitting is always carried out. To make adjustments to the model and get a general idea of the future product.
Fitting is primarily carried out for the customer, sometimes they do not understand sewing clients cannot imagine the whole picture. And an experienced tailor sees the result finished product immediately in the mind. Therefore, the first fitting is very important, especially if the product is non-standard with various finishing elements. Remember! The maximum result depends on the quality of the fitting and general understanding with the client.
Preparing for the first fitting
Stitch or baste the middle back seam (if there is one). Assemble the assembly along the upper cut of the back and shelves, baste with one part of the yoke (the second is not needed yet). Assemble the ruffle along the hem and the bottom of the sleeves. Baste the sleeves into the open armhole, basting the sleeve seams and side seams in one step. Cut out the cuffs and collar from the mock-up fabric. Baste the cuffs to the sleeves and baste the collar.
First fitting
Unfortunately, there are no fitting photos for this shirt. Therefore, the following photos will be a men's shirt made of silk fabric, a classic model (the fitting process is almost the same). Place the shirt over the figure and pin the panels in the center, matching the top and bottom. Make changes to the volume of the shirt, if necessary, take the excess into the side seams.
The photo shows a fitting for a sleeveless shirt. In the classic model, the sleeves can be pinned during fitting (right sleeve) to clarify the shoulder line. In men, this point is usually slightly lowered, it depends on the model.
- if the model is very fitted, the end shoulder rises up (as in women's products);
- if the model is loose, then the shoulder point goes down, so the shoulder turns out to be lowered;
- If this is not done, for example, you lower the shoulder too much in a fitted model, then horizontal folds from the armhole will appear, and the shoulders will look too wide.
After this, check the length and width of the sleeves, as well as the length and shape of the hem. Pay attention to the shape of the collar, neck depth (front and back) and cuff size. After trying on, lay the product out on a flat surface and note any changes. You will learn how to properly carry out the first fitting from my article: .
Processing the yoke
Sew the middle seam, overcast the edge and press the seam allowance.
Found unfamiliar words? Then refer to and.
Gather the top edge and adjust the gather to fit the yoke.
The yoke is double, so first we process one part, then the second. Take one piece of the yoke, align the right side with the wrong side of the back, pin and stitch.
Here's what happens:
Gather the upper sections of the shelves and adjust the gathering to the yoke.
Sew the shelves with the back yoke, iron the allowances on the yoke without touching the gather with the iron.
Then sew the second yoke piece into the back seam. To do this, align the yoke and back with the right sides facing inward, pin together and stitch the joints of the first yoke into the seam. This way the seam should be between the two yokes. Remove the gathering threads, sweep the piping along the seam into the split and iron with an iron without disturbing the gathering.
Baste the loose edges of the yoke to the shelves. To do this, bend the sections by 1.0 cm and baste them to the shelves, covering the previous seam by 0.1-0.2 cm.
Place a finishing stitch 0.1 cm from the fold. The finishing seam along the front yoke should cover the seam connecting to the yoke.
Press the seams carefully without disturbing the gathers.
Processing planks
The planks are cut along the length of the sides of the shelves, the cutting width is 6.5 - 7.5 cm. Also, each plank is glued with an adhesive gasket. The width of the 1st spacer is half the width of the strip, the length is the same. Using an iron, glue the adhesive pads onto the slats from the wrong side. Then iron the strips in half lengthwise from the front side.
Sew the strips to the sides of the shelves in one layer, first the side with the gasket. To do this, align the front side of the strip with the front side of the bead, pin and stitch the strip by 0.5 - 0.7 cm.
To avoid thickening at the seams, peel off the interfacing allowance by hand and trim it to the seam. Iron the seam allowance onto the placket.
Then fold and baste the free cut of the strip to the product, closing the seam by 0.1 - 0.2 cm.
On the front side of the plank, place a finishing stitch 0.1 cm from the seam, so that the hem falls under the seam.
Place a finishing stitch along the edge 0.1 cm.
When finished, remove the temporary threads and iron the strips.
Sewing a shirt collar
The collar consists of an upper and lower collar. Cut out 2 collar pieces, 2 stand-up pieces, 1 collar piece and stand-up collar from the main fabric. adhesive fabric. Parts made of cushioning fabric should be 0.5 - 0.7 cm smaller than the main ones. The lower collar is 0.2 - 0.3 cm smaller than the upper one. The collar stand is cut along the length of the neck, the collar is 1.25 - 1.5 cm shorter than the stand (in half size).
Apply adhesive pad to the top collar and stand.
Pin the top and bottom collars together, then sew a 0.5 cm wide seam.
Cut out the corners, turn right side out, straighten the corners, sweep out the piping using the top collar and iron.
Place a finishing stitch along the collar 0.1 cm from the edge. Remove basting threads and iron again.
Connect the collar stand (the one with the spacer) to the bottom collar side. Then take the second post piece and connect it from the top collar side. Sew on a machine, grinding down the curves of the stand.
Turn right side out so the seam is on the inside.
Collar-neck connection
Pin the stand-up collar into the neckline, align the centers of the collar with the center of the back, and the ends of the stand-up with the sides of the shelves. Baste and stitch the collar into the neckline from the side of the upper collar, seam width 0.7 cm.
Fold the free cut of the lower collar stand and baste it to the neckline, overlapping the stitching seam by 0.1 - 0.2 cm. At the same time, sweep the piping into the split along the stand.
Sew stitches 0.1 cm along the post, securing the folded edge.
Remove the temporary threads and press the seams.
Processing cuts on sleeves
To process the cuts on the sleeves, you need to cut out bias braid or trim for processing. Bias binding is cut at a 45 degree angle from the main fabric along the length of the cut, 3.5 cm wide.
To make a cut, fold the sleeves together, step back from the elbow seam of the sleeve 6.0 - 7.0 cm (from the back or back half). Draw a perpendicular 10.0 - 12.0 cm up. Cut along the marked line.
Edge the cut with bias tape.
On the wrong side, secure the top of the cut at an angle.
On the front side, carefully iron the cut, but do not move the iron back and forth, otherwise you will stretch the binding.
Process the cut on the second sleeve in the same way.
Connection with sleeves
Baste and stitch the sleeves into the open armhole, stitching the edges on the side of the product.
Finish the sleeve seams and side seams in one go. Iron seam allowances to the back.
Processing the bottom of the sleeves with cuffs
Cut cuffs from the main fabric, glue half of the cuffs with an adhesive pad and sew the edges. The cuff is a rectangle 16.0 cm wide (with allowances), length 28.0 cm (the length depends on the circumference of the wrist, it is specified during the fitting).
Gather the bottom of the sleeve and connect the cuff to the sleeve. Align the right side of the cuff (the one with the interfacing) with the right side of the sleeve and pin together.
In the era of romanticism, a gentleman was required to change his tailcoat every three weeks, his hat every month, and his shoes every week. To become a full-fledged “socialite” and “dandy”, it was necessary to comply with all these requirements, which wealthy people could afford. The ability to sew clothes with your own hands largely solves the financial problem of purchasing clothes. Thanks to your desire, you can sew any shirt with your own hands for your man or for yourself.
In the 19th century, men were expected to look elegant and neat. Fashionistas of that time did not skimp on expensive and high-quality clothes. They generously spent time and money on purchasing trendy items. Fashion magazines recommended that modern dandies have a couple of toilets for every day.
Every year fashion offered new colors in the suit, and new accessories. Sometimes fashionistas went into debt to comply with all the rules of etiquette. Nowadays, you can only see a man in an expensive suit in business circles, where there is a strict dress code appearance. My master class will help you sew a jacket like in the photo: .
During the period of romanticism in men's suit there was “romantic carelessness.” This is the ability to wear a suit with the collar of the shirt unbuttoned, hair down, tailcoat unbuttoned, etc. Such a relaxed manner of wearing clothes meant independence from everyday trifles and secular principles. First of all, they preferred to see intellectual qualities in a person.
I hope this article will help you make your dream come true, and I will be pleased to see your subscription and your comment.
P.S. Did you like the master class?!
Best regards, Maria Novikova.
Stop being a gray mouse, join the ranks of the fashionable and stylish! Don't know how? I will help you!
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I would be grateful if you use the buttons:
