A long-awaited dog appears in the apartment, jumping, amusingly begging for food, playing actively, ruffling soft toys, uncleaned slippers, and jumping on a chair or bed. Remember, the puppy must become a well-mannered dog who will not allow himself such liberties. This requires dog training at home.
Precursor to training: education
Raising a dog is teaching the animal simple behavioral skills and the hierarchy between pet and owner. If you don't train her, then sooner or later the dog becomes uncontrollable. Therefore, you should monitor and educate the animal so that it does not chew things, climb on tables, or steal food from plates.
Simultaneously with the education process, you can gradually move on to training. At this point, the dog should already understand its name. Many breeders advise making it short, sonorous, so that the sound “r” is present in it. When training begins, it is recommended to accustom the dog to a leash and collar. The animal should not pick up food on the street or take it from trash cans.
How to start training a dog at home
First, the owner must understand that raising an animal and training are regular processes, and not a temporary pastime at will. Therefore, you should clearly plan your affairs and allocate time that you are willing to spend on your pet.
For the first training of the dog owner, you should prepare. Buy a collar, pick up a leash, and food for the puppy. This is usually dry food. You should not feed your dog food from the table. In pet stores there is big choice items that are suitable for training your furry friend.
Suitable age
You can begin the educational process as early as 1.5 months. Training is done in a playful way. At this stage it is important that the puppy trusts you. So, the owner will quickly make progress, especially if he treats the animal with affection and takes care of the pet.
At an early age, it is better to teach the animal simple commands, and as it grows, it should move on to more complex exercises. At this age, the puppy will perceive training not as an obligation, but as a game.
Rules for improving process efficiency
What can you do to make self-training dogs effective?
The owner of the animal must fulfill several conditions. You can't repeat the same thing over and over again. The order is given only 2 times. If repeated many times in the future, the dog will not obey the first time.
For learning to be effective, the animal does not need to develop a specific algorithm. For example, if you repeat “Voice” to the dog over and over again, then “Sit”, “Give me a paw”, “Lie down”, etc. in the same order. Commands for a puppy must be swapped so that the dog can perceive any command separately and also promptly execute it, regardless of the circumstances.
At first, you shouldn’t tire the dog too much, because it gets tired, and attention (especially in a puppy) quickly dissipates. With long training, the animal will begin to carry out commands slowly and sluggishly. Subsequently, a long process in such a rhythm begins to cause irritation and rejection in the animal.
Commands are given at intervals of several seconds. The dog must have time to understand this command and carry it out. This way, the dog will understand what the owner wants and will not get confused.
Before you start training the puppy, you walk him and play with him. After a walk, the dog has less energy, is no longer in a very playful mood, and he behaves more attentively in class and is not distracted. When a puppy is afraid of making a mistake and behaves insecurely, it means that the owner is too strict with him. The more affectionately you treat and talk to the puppy during training, the more he will try. The animal should not be overfed before training, because a well-fed dog will be worse at following commands in order to get goodies.
Training place
Study space is an important factor. If you perform training only at home, then often the puppy can listen and follow commands at home, but completely ignore them outside. Therefore, it is recommended to alternate between home and street.
For the first lessons, the owner should choose a quiet place with a minimum number of irritating factors (passers-by, other pets, playing children, birds). If the training is done correctly, then after a few sessions the dog will become more disciplined and will no longer be very distracted. Then it’s time to move the training to more crowded places. If you had to train your puppy in an unfamiliar place, you should give him 20–30 minutes to explore the area and look around.
Class time
The duration of classes is also important. In the first days, they are done no longer than 40 minutes so that the dog does not become overtired. As the pet gets used to it, the training time is extended to 90 minutes. It is better to train your pet outside every 2-3 days, and at home this is done regularly for 10 minutes.
How to train a dog yourself without the participation of a dog handler?
Each lesson begins with the assimilation of the material already studied. So, the dog will quickly remember what has been covered. You should not train it immediately in the morning or before bed, after eating.
The dog cannot be beaten for pranks during classes, disobedience, or incorrect actions. The only thing you can do is reproach it in a reproachful tone, saying: “Bad”, “Wrong”, etc. An animal at the moment of an incorrect action or refusal to perform it cannot be beaten, shouted at the dog, or pulled by the scruff of the neck.
Classes are always conducted only in a positive attitude and in a playful way. So, the animal is more likely to become interested; it does not need to consider the execution of commands as coercion. The owner should rejoice at every completed command in order to motivate the puppy to do more and better. Classes are held regularly, it is necessary to repeat the learned commands at least 10 minutes a day.
Training process
A favorable period for training a pet is the period of socialization. This is the age of the animal from 2 to 3 months. At this time, you can start classes, but they should not take more than 10 minutes. Short workouts can be done 2 times a day. It is best to start training with simple commands, for example, “Place!”, “To your feet,” “To me.”
After the dog follows the command, it is always rewarded with treats, stroked on the head or affectionately patted on the ears, saying kind words. If the dog has mastered the material well, then treats begin to be given not after each correct execution, but after several repetitions.
Team "Place"
Accustoming to a place is necessarily accompanied by the animal’s name, for example, “Alan, place!” The command is pronounced clearly, and the animal is placed on a bedding, bed or rug. It would be good if there was a soft cloth on it so that the pet would feel comfortable lying on it. This piece of material can then be used to teach the “Guard!” command.
Team "Come to me"
Again, the command is repeated by the owner loudly, clearly and accompanied by the puppy’s name. If the dog makes the command reluctantly, slowly, then you can run back a few steps. This will attract her attention and speed her movement towards you. This action is performed every day, so remembering this command is important, especially for walks and also in public places.
Command "Sit"
It can be taught to dogs from the age of 60 days. Lure the puppy and let him see (smell the treat in your palm), slowly raise your hand up so that the pet can see the treat only by sitting down.
As soon as the dog sits down, he is clearly commanded “Sit!”, petted and given a treat. If the dog does not want to sit down on his own, you can slightly help him sit down with your hand, lightly pressing your palm on his back.
Command "Lie down"
The dog is forced to sit down, after which they hold it by the withers and help the animal move its paws forward. At the same time, the owner pronounces the command “Lie down!” After the dog lies down, he is given some treats.
Command "Stop!"
To teach the animal to do this command, it is transferred to a lying position, and then slowly raised, supporting it under the belly so that the dog does not lie down again. Simultaneously with this action, the command is spoken.
Command "Near!"
When the puppy turns 3 months old, it’s time to start using the “Near!” command. To do this, a collar with a leash is put on the animal. The leash should be short, so that the dog is at the owner's left leg. The owner of the puppy holds the leash at a distance of 20 cm from the collar and commands, pulling the leash towards him. Then we loosen the leash and allow the pet to move freely.
What if you don't train...
If you do not start training an animal before it is a year old, then later it will become uncontrollable. This will complicate walks and appearances with him. in public places. In principle, you can start training an animal at any age, but after a year it listens less well, training will take longer and be less effective.
Training mistakes
The pet understands and notices the slightest changes in the owner’s behavior, rude intonations, and incorrect gestures. To make it easier for the dog to understand what they want from it, you cannot confuse it by actively gesturing, or vary the commands, for example, instead of “Come to me!” use "Come". Roughness during training is unacceptable; it is impossible to traumatize the animal’s psyche. You shouldn’t feed him enough before class; it’s better to let the dog be slightly hungry.
What depends on the breed?
The opinions of dog handlers on this issue boil down to one thing; it all depends on the owner himself and his desires. If education and training are regular, repeated many times and done correctly, then a dog, even with a complex character, easily makes contact and obeys. But, nevertheless, dog experts have compiled a rating of breeds that are good and bad for training. Chow-chows, Afghan hounds and bulldogs do not obey their owners well.
The easiest breeds to train are shelties (a type of collie), service and guard breeds, such as shepherds, Dobermans, and Rottweilers. Companion dogs, for example, border collies and retrievers, easily obey people and are highly intelligent. In addition, they are recognized as the most efficient and do not get tired during training for a long time.
The personal qualities of the dog itself and genetic predisposition are also important, especially for dogs with a pedigree. A lot here depends on the training ability of the puppy’s parents. The breeders themselves note this.
Training dogs at home helps your pet develop basic skills used in everyday life. You need to train a dog of any breed and size. Train pet best from 4 or 5 months, the training period is six months, sometimes it may take a little longer. A novice dog owner may be wondering how to properly train a dog, and the answer to this question can be found by watching dog training video tutorials. Very often you can learn a lot of useful things by visiting forums experienced dog breeders, where they share information about proper dog training.
When training a dog, it is important to have a lot of free time, be patient and have a great desire to do this difficult task. When going out to train a dog, you need to forget about a bad mood, conduct all training only in an upbeat mood and with a positive attitude. IN otherwise the dog will definitely sense the owner’s bad mood, and you can forget about a full training session. If problems arise, you can visit a dog training school located in Moscow, where you can find answers to all your questions.
How to teach a dog commands?
Teaching a dog a name . This command needs to be taught to the pet from the moment it appears. In order for your four-legged friend to begin to respond to his nickname, you need to call it very often. It is always necessary to call a dog only with positive emotions; as soon as the pet begins to respond, it must be rewarded with praise or some kind of treat.
Concentration of attention . It is important to teach the dog to concentrate its attention on the person - the owner has left, which means the pet should immediately follow him.
This effect can be achieved using one very simple exercise: let the dog go for a walk (it is important that the place is deserted) and move away a few meters. The dog will not immediately notice the absence of the owner, but when he sees it, he will immediately run up to him. The owner should not immediately praise the dog - he needs to wait about five seconds, and then praise with a look, stroking or words; if there is any treat, it must be given. After half an hour, the exercise must be repeated, but the time interval between the time the dog approached the owner and the time he praised and encouraged it should gradually increase. Over time, when the dog gets used to concentrating on the owner, the exercise does not need to be repeated.
Command “Come to me!” . This command can be instilled into the puppy at a fundamental level, that is, almost from birth. The command can be pronounced when calling the dog to play or eat. When pronouncing a command, your voice must be made friendly; this is the only way to make the dog obey and carry out this command. With the start of training, some changes can be made to this command - the dog can walk around the owner and stand next to him, or he can simply come up and sit in front of the owner.
Team “Place!” Every pet should have its own place, the same goes for dogs. It is necessary to teach a dog this command from the age when it is only a small puppy; it is very difficult to force a large dog to do this, and it is not a fact that it will work at all. A place for a pet can be anything - a blanket, a pillow, a rug, a special house. You must first introduce the puppy to the place, you need to bring all your pet’s favorite toys there. If the dog falls asleep somewhere else, you need to take it to the place. It is important not to forget that this place cannot be moved anywhere, and also there cannot be any manipulations with the dog that it does not like - for it it should be a favorite place, with the most positive emotions associated with it.
The command “No!”, “No!”, “Ugh!”. All these 3 phrases mean one command; you can teach the dog to all phrases at once, or to just one. It is important during the training period to convey to the dog the meaning of the spoken phrases. They must be pronounced firmly, in a tone that does not foreshadow any concessions; threatening notes can be used. The dog must feel the owner. Despite the fact that you need to pronounce these phrases in a firm tone, you should never break into a scream.
The command “Near!” The essence of this command lies in the fact that the four-legged friend always moves next to the owner. In this case, the person can walk, stand or sit - the dog must be near him. To teach it this command, you need to make the leash as short as possible, and the dog is on the left hand of the owner. With your left hand you need to hold the leash next to the collar, and with your right hand you need to hold the free end of the leash. The dog should be given the order to stay nearby - it should not deviate to the side, overtake or lag behind the owner; any attempt to do this should pull the leash harder and command the order again. If the dog has done everything correctly, you must reward it. To check the assimilation of the material, when overtaking, lagging behind or deviating to the side, without the help of a leash, you need to pronounce an order. If the dog has learned his lesson, he will return to the man's left leg.
The command “Sit!” To teach this technique to a dog, you need to place it on your left hand, say a command, at this moment you need to pull the leash up with your right hand, and press on the back of the body with your left hand. The dog will sit down, but at first it will constantly try to get up, in this case you need to press a little harder and repeat the command. After some time, the dog will get used to it and begin to follow the order on its own. After the dog has learned this lesson, it is necessary to ensure that it carries out this command when the owner is at some distance from it.
The command “Lie down!” The dog should stand on the left side of the owner, he should sit down next to it on his right leg, pull the leash down with his right hand, and with his left press on the middle part of the body and say the command. The exercise must be repeated until the dog begins to understand what is being asked of it.
The command “Stop!” This command is needed mainly when the dog is being cleaned or bathed, as well as during an examination by a veterinarian, so it is important to ensure that the dog carries out this command clearly and unquestioningly; the dog should not be allowed to shift from foot to foot while standing. A dog that is in a sitting position needs to be given a command, while pulling the leash up, you can help the dog stand up by lifting it by the lower part of the body. Repeat the exercise until the command is completely mastered.
The command “Aport!” This command is very necessary for dogs; it means bring, take, give. The essence of this command is for the dog to grab and bring to the owner what he asks of it. Everyone knows that dogs have one innate feature - to grab an object that is in motion. The dog's favorite toy, a stick or a small ball are suitable for this command. To perform the exercise, you need to sit your pet in front of you, and wave some object in front of him, when the dog is about to grab it, do not interfere with it, but do what you have planned, while saying a command. When the dog has mastered the exercise, it needs to be made a little more difficult - throw the object some distance and repeat the command.
Additional and more detailed information can be found in dog training books.
Equipment used in dog training
No special equipment is required for dog training; only a few items are needed for this purpose. When training a dog, you cannot use an everyday collar, because it is too soft, the dog simply will not obey. You will need a tarpaulin leash 5-10 m long or a regular rope of the same size. If you use a rope, you need to attach a carabiner to one end.
An electronic collar with a remote control is often used to train a dog. Such a collar affects the dog with the help of electrical impulses. The impact can be applied with varying strength and duration using a small receiver on the dog's collar. This collar can be controlled using a remote control specially designed for this purpose.
The whistle for dog training can be used either conventional or ultrasonic. An ultrasonic whistle always allows the dog to focus its attention on its owner; it must be taught this almost from the moment it appears in the house. The frequency of the tones on each whistle is always adjusted individually for each dog. The use of an ultrasonic whistle is also noteworthy because during training, those around you are not irritated by the noise, as is usually the case when using a regular whistle.
A muzzle is a mandatory attribute used in dog training.
During each training session, you should take a small amount of your dog’s favorite treat with you. This is necessary in order to encourage every success of the dog.
It is advisable to take with you to training a toy that the dog constantly plays with. It is important that this thing is not new, but something that the dog has already gotten used to.
This video explains in detail how to properly use all the necessary equipment used in dog training.
It is important to remember that if a dog cannot complete a task during training, there is no need to blame it, since only the one who trains this dog is to blame. In this case, it is recommended to stop all training and consult with a professional dog trainer: how to behave so that the dog begins to obey and follow commands.
Before you start training your dog at home, you need to first watch the video instructions, and it is advisable to do this several times.
It is necessary to reward the dog for every task completed. Reward can be anything, usually it is the dog's favorite treat, verbal praise or a simple stroke. The main thing is that the dog realizes that the owner is happy with it.
If the dog does not follow commands, then it must be punished for this. Punishment can be a threatening tone in the voice, a sharp tug on the leash, or a light blow or slap. The dog must understand that the owner is not happy.
For failure to comply with commands such as “Come to me!” and “Aport!”, the pet under no circumstances should be subject to punishment.
Commands to the dog should be given in a loud voice, phrases should be pronounced clearly and expressively. It is not recommended to say anything extra, just a strict command and that’s it. You cannot say the same command more than 2 times in a row. The first time the command is pronounced in the form of an order, if the dog does not comply with it, the second time a threat must be heard in the voice, which the pet must necessarily feel and obey the owner. If this does not happen, you need to force the dog to comply with the command.
The exception is the command “No” or “Fu” - these phrases must be pronounced no more than once, the tone must be threatening.
The dog quickly learns new commands, but it is important, in addition to learning new commands, to constantly repeat the old ones. During each walk you should devote at least half an hour to this.
It is important to remember that if something doesn’t work out, you can sign up for dog training courses, where you can learn all the nuances of training.
Dog training at home from scratch was last modified: July 22nd, 2016 by Maxim Bartsev
For most people this is a serious problem. All because the owners did not bother to study the pet’s character and establish contact with it. Before you can train dogs, you need to make friends with them and ensure the animals' trust and respect. It is not so difficult.
You should know that each breed has its own nuances that must be taken into account. You can study a dog's character in practice by observing it. This helps the owner understand that the animal is also a person who must be taken into account.
Education is the basis of training
Have you thought about how to properly train a dog? First of all, the animal must be educated. There are no trifles in this matter. Don't let your pet sleep on your bed - he will get used to it very quickly and begin to chase you away. If you're sitting at the dinner table and your dog is hovering around, don't throw the kibble. The animal must have its own food.
Get used to eating a portion at a time; to do this, remove the bowl immediately after finishing the meal. If the dog doesn’t finish eating, next time add a smaller portion (of course, taking into account the characteristics of the breed).
The dog owner must understand the difference between education and training. To educate is to teach a pet the most important rules of behavior, to build relationships with it according to the principle of hierarchy. Without proper training, the dog will be uncontrollable. This is to teach to perform necessary actions after a certain command.
Let's move on to training
When contact with your pet is established, you can begin teaching the first commands. At first, try not to raise your voice, otherwise the dog will not perceive a calm intonation.
Before you train dogs, they need to be taught to know their own names. When choosing a name, remember that the best name is short and sonorous, which contains the sound “r”. At the next stage, teach the dog to eat only at home and under no circumstances take food from strangers on the street. In addition, the dog must master a collar, muzzle, and leash - mandatory attributes for any walk.
Outdoor exercises should be started only after walking the dog, when it has rested and played with other animals. In each individual case, intuition will help you.
Theory or practice?
Many dog owners try to learn how to properly train a dog from books or the Internet. But, as a rule, the literature provides only general information about the behavior of animals and the characteristics of each breed. In reality, it is impossible to train a dog using books. The practical part includes the development of movement and coordination skills, and this applies to both the pet itself and its owner.
At the same time, you should know that most colorful illustrated foreign publications, especially American ones, are not suitable for working in Russian conditions. Training methods in the USA are completely different.
How to train a dog correctly? The entire training process consists of teaching the dog to understand commands and providing the right motivation, that is, the dog must not only understand what the owner wants from it, but also strive to fulfill his command, and for this it needs a stimulus that must be skillfully selected.
Carrot or stick?
On initial stage The dog should receive a treat for completing the command. Training should be based on the animal's emotions: if it is happy to play and follow your commands, receiving a reward, the training process itself will be easy and enjoyable for both parties. Seeing your rewards and receiving tidbits, the dog will easily and willingly obey your commands.
If you build a system for remembering commands based on negative emotions, it will be very difficult to regain the animal’s trust. The biggest mistake novice trainers make is trying to inflict violence (physical or psychological). If you yell at the dog, much less hit it, the result will be exactly the opposite of what you expected. She will either become nervous and aggressive, or downtrodden, which is also of no use to you.
At the same time, you can’t be too soft with a dog. Don't let her pamper or play while training. Friendliness should be in moderation. Say the command only once. If the dog gets used to responding only after ten repetitions, be sure that you will never achieve immediate execution of the command.
Other nuances
The commands “no” and “fu” should sound a little stricter. The dog must understand that the owner is dissatisfied with its actions.
The most important thing in training is systematic repetition. Each exercise must be repeated several times to consolidate it. But don't be overly zealous in this matter, give the animal a break.
Of course, you need to take into account the characteristics of the breed. If you have a large dog, such as a German Shepherd, handling it will not be easy for a physically untrained person. The owner himself must be strong and resilient. Sometimes professionals are hired to train such dogs, but it is much better when the dog gets used to obeying only the owner.
Training methods
Now let's talk about specific methods. How and where is the best place to train a dog? Most often, there are three options - independent training of the animal at a training site, individual lessons with a dog handler (including at home), training with overexposure without the presence of the owner.
The last point looks very tempting and theoretically saves the owner from hassle - you give the dog, pay money, get a trained, disciplined animal. But in practice everything is not so simple. Don't forget that a dog is a living creature, and not a computer that can be configured to work. She has a personal relationship with her owner, which is an important part of the success of the training process.
Thus, the presence of the owner in classes is almost always necessary - in order to monitor the formation of skills in the dog and independently correct the process. One way or another, you still have to spend your own time and effort on training.
Training on the site
Let's look at how this happens on a special training site. Here dogs are trained independently under the supervision and guidance of a professional dog trainer for a reasonable fee. The advantage is the low cost of the lesson and the opportunity to take the exam with the dog to receive a diploma (if needed) at a familiar site.
The disadvantage of this method is the platform effect. The dog follows commands only where it was trained. Another disadvantage is the inability to solve your pet's individual problems.
Lessons with an instructor
It is even possible to train dogs at home with a dog handler, which will allow you to save time on transporting your pet to the place of training. You can choose a time convenient for yourself. There is no platform effect, the dog is trained to respond to commands in any environment.
The downside is the relatively high price of such training and sometimes the impossibility of finding a good dog handler.
Choosing a specialist
How to choose a dog handler? If the person offering his services previously served in the army or police, and is now trying to organize dog training courses or simply work for hire, then this is not the best option. As a rule, he had only one dog at his disposal during his service. Take into account the features different breeds These people are often unable to do this; such a specialist can easily ruin another dog (especially a puppy).
If the dog handler is not related to the army or police, ask what breeds he specializes in. It is desirable that the trainer can find an approach to a dog of any breed. The most complex of them are Spitz, wolfhounds, Shar-Pei, and also decorative dogs. It is not easy to find a specialist for these breeds. If there is one, this means that he is able to cope with a representative of almost any breed.
It is highly desirable that a professional trainer undergo training and obtain a license at the courses of the Russian Canine Federation. If he does not have such a diploma, it is worth considering.
About training methods
The closest attention should be paid to the methods of working with the dog. There are, as a rule, three professional ones - food motivation (reward in the form of treats), play motivation (throwing your favorite toy) and a mechanical-defensive method using harsh techniques.
Very blunder is to use only one of the three methods. The carrot and the stick alone will not work; you need to combine them. In addition, a professional should be able to explain to you, as the owner, the basics of training. Thus, trust your pet only to a competent specialist.
How to train a dog with commands?
If the dog is not going to participate in shows, there is no need to teach a huge number of commands. Any dog should know and be able to perform the most basic of them.
On the command “near”, the animal must understand that at the moment it is forbidden to jump or play and should stay near the owner. A similar command is “to me.” In this case, the dog should not only run up to you, but also stay close to you until you let him go.
The command “fu” means “don’t touch”, “impossible”. It is used not only in cases of attempts to sniff and grab food or garbage on the street, but also in possible harassment of strangers.
Useful reflexes must be developed from puppyhood. Here the most successful tactics will be play and imitation. Conditioned stimuli, which are called signal ones, are generally accepted commands in all service dog breeding clubs.
The conditioned reflex to any command is first reinforced by mechanical action with a hand or a leash, then execution is encouraged with a tasty piece. In order for the dog to strive to get a treat, training should be carried out before feeding.
We organize classes
How to train dogs while walking? The duration of each lesson should not be more than two hours. Until old skills are consolidated, new ones should not be started. It is necessary to use breaks to rest and walk the dog. It is important to be able to use long and short leashes correctly, then you should move on to the stage of control without a leash.
For successful training, the owner must stock up on a set of necessary equipment - regular and strict collars, short and long leashes, a muzzle, various items, which the dog will bring, a bag for all this, a bag for food.
You need to have pieces of sausage or any other food with you. At the sports training site, special sleeves, training suits, starting pistols and other devices are usually used. As a rule, there is an obstacle course there. For training with a dog you will definitely need special clothing, comfortable and durable.
Don't let your dog lick your face, and wash your hands well with soap and water after each training session. At the initial stage, places for training should be chosen away from roads and crowds of people.
At what age are dogs trained? Will it be possible to train an adult dog? A dog of almost any age can be trained, including those older than eight years, but the process of training an adult animal will take a little longer. Before training an adult dog, let it get comfortable. She may take a little longer to learn movement commands.
What do the commands mean?
On the command “come”, the dog must approach the owner from the right side and allow the leash to be attached to the collar. “Nearby” is an order to be near the owner’s left leg when walking or standing still. “Walk” can be commanded to a dog off the leash, in the absence of strangers.
The “face” command gives vent to aggression and points to the object of influence. “Fu” is the opposite of many others; it cancels any actions, including aggressive ones. On the “fetch” command, the pet must bring the thrown object (a stick or a ball). It is very important to teach it to a hunting dog that will carry game.
On the command “sit” or “lie down,” the animal must sit or lie down in its place or on the ground, respectively. In this case, all orders are supported by the appropriate gesture of the right hand.
Do not forget that the dog is a descendant of wolves, which are adapted to life in a pack. For successful training, she must recognize your family as her pack, and you, her owner, as the leader.
Initial training is always done at home, in a calm environment, where nothing distracts or frightens the pet. Dog training at home is a start, during which the pet will master the main, vital commands. How to teach a dog to understand you? How to praise your pet correctly? What mistakes do inexperienced owners often make?
There are no stupid dogs. Just believe it and accept it as a fact - it will be easier to work with a dog. Of course, you should start as soon as the puppy appears in the house. The age of two months is quite suitable for mastering simple skills, and it is during this period that the baby absorbs knowledge at an incredible speed. Sometimes it even seems that dogs become stupid with age, but this is not so - it’s just harder for older pets to learn new information. Although training adult dogs at home will also definitely bear fruit if done correctly. So, let’s remember the inviolable dogmas:
- the first classes last no more than 10 minutes, two to three times a day;
- lessons always begin by repeating already learned commands;
- before training, the dog should be allowed to lose excess energy;
- does not exercise on a full stomach, immediately after sleep or late in the evening;
- we punish the dog only with our voice, saying reproachfully “Ay-ay-ay”, “Bad”, “You can’t do that.” We don’t shout, we don’t grab you by the scruff of the neck, we don’t beat you under any circumstances for refusing to carry out a command;
- Dog training at home always takes place in the form of play, in a good positive mood. The pet needs to be interested, “included” in the process without pressure or coercion;
- Say the command once, maximum twice. It’s no use saying “Come to me, come to me, come to me” a hundred times! - this way you will only teach the dog that it is possible to carry out a command from the tenth instruction, but this is unacceptable (a speeding car will not wait);
- Praise your dog as if he just saved the world. Rejoice wildly at every success, speak in a playful, happy voice;
- Practice every day so that your pet does not forget the learned commands. 10 minutes is enough to repeat the entire “course”.
Failure to follow any rule is a big mistake! Pay attention to the little things, it's very important. Dogs detect the slightest changes in mood, intonation, and gestures. First of all, watch yourself, your actions, then it will be easier for your pet to understand you. Don't confuse your dog by using different gestures or variations of commands (come here, come to me, come).
How to interest a dog?
First of all, the owner must sincerely enjoy training. Then the dog will feel that its owner is happy and will follow commands with increasing diligence. Do not “turn on” the leader unless absolutely necessary (aggression, direct or veiled).
To keep your pet interested, one of the methods of encouragement is used - praise with play, food and/or attention. As a rule, training small breed dogs at home goes well if the owner emotionally and joyfully praises the pet, consolidating the result with a tasty bite. Although any dog will not refuse a treat, you should not overfeed it (the piece is tiny, only to indicate the correctness of the actions). Play as a reward works well with active breeds (hunters, dogs).
At first, give your pet a hint. For example, before training, you can put on a waist pouch with a treat, which the dog sees only during the training process and never again. Or take out a favorite toy from the “hidden”, which the dog will associate with training and subsequent play. When your pet understands the commands well, you can do without special tips.
How to praise a dog correctly?
The dog will associate treats and rewards with affection (voice, stroking) with correct behavior, only if the reinforcement occurs at the time the command is executed. The main mistake is to praise with a delay, during which the pet performed some action not related to the command. For example, the command “Come to me” is practiced: the dog should receive a treat on the way, as soon as it is at the owner’s feet. Incorrect - the dog came up and sat down (or turned around at his feet). In this case, the pet can associate the reward with its last action (twirled at the feet, sat down, leaned its front paws on the owner’s legs, licked the palm, etc.).
When practicing some skills, it is impossible to praise the dog right away. In such cases, use a clicker - a small clicking keychain. First, the dog is taught to click (click - they gave something tasty, click - they gave it something tasty, without any commands). The pet quickly associates the click and good emotions. Now the click will be enough for the dog to understand that he is acting correctly.
Read also: Do dogs sweat: features of your pet’s physiology and thermoregulation
Basic commands that can and should be practiced at home
Proceed from simple to complex - first learn the simplest commands, and then move on to those that not all dogs understand from the first training.
To me- the most important command, without exaggeration, it can save a pet’s life. At first, the command is pronounced when the puppy is already running towards the owner. Then using attraction (show a toy or treat from afar). For the first time, the command “Come to me” is given from a short distance, literally a couple of meters. When the pet understands what's what, you need to gradually increase the distance in order to achieve the command even when the owner is in another room (i.e. the dog does not see the person). You should always call your dog in a firm but calm, positive voice. Never call your dog if you are going to do something unpleasant (cut his nails, scold him for a puddle, etc.).
Sit- Another required skill. This command can be used instead when the dog needs to be stopped (for example, there is a road ahead). Training hunting dogs at home necessarily includes the “stand” command, but for city pets it is enough to be able to sit on command. The first time the command is pronounced, catching the moment when the puppy begins to sit down on its own. We repeat several times. Then we complicate the task by teaching the dog to sit on command (voice + gesture - vertically raised palm, see photo) when the owner demands it. We hold the treat between our fingers and show it to the dog, slightly extending the hand with the treat forward (do not lower your palm, the dog should not reach the treat). At the same time we say “Sit.” Perhaps the pet will try to jump towards the hand, spin around at the feet, wag its tail, etc. We stand like a monument, without moving, without changing our posture. When the dog gets tired of begging, it will sit in front of the hand, i.e. fulfills the command - praise!
These are the two most important commands that the dog must carry out the first time, “unquestioningly”, in any mood and in any situation. Without mastering these skills, the dog should never be let off the leash during a walk!
By the way, about the leash. After all, this is also a kind of skill! Definitely before your first walks. Walk around the apartment for at least 5 minutes three times a day. Do not allow the dog to pull you, you must control your pet. If the dog goes in the wrong direction, pull the leash briefly and lightly (two or three short tugs). This is a signal, not a compulsion! The pet should go voluntarily, and not be dragged along because he has no choice.
Before you start training your small dog, I recommend reading the entire book, not just the section that interests you at the moment. After reading the entire book, you will understand that you are working according to a specific plan consisting of “building blocks”. You will use the techniques and tips contained in this book when training puppies and young animals, but you will also need them at more advanced stages of training. Having a general idea of the plan will help you avoid unintentional training mistakes that you will have to correct later.Training small dogs: teaching them to obey commands
Puppy training for puppies between three and six months of age is the basis of obedience training. This is where the basic skills are laid.
By understanding the big picture of training, you will understand why you need to start working from a very young age.
However, to begin teaching your puppy commands requires understanding and patience, patience and more patience! Study time should be enjoyable for the puppy, but nevertheless different from the usual games and fussing he is used to.
The difficulty is for the puppy to understand what is being taught and what is wanted from him. Your commands must be clear and precise.
Classes should be based on positive motivation: constantly praise and encourage the puppy, without resorting to correction, especially violent, otherwise the puppy will develop stubbornness, timidity and other character traits that fall under the mistakes of unintentional training - a constant headache for the trainer. Our task is to show the puppy that learning is great!
- work that requires love, patience, self-discipline and devotion. At the same time, you need to stock up on energy and an optimistic attitude. Do not work with your puppy if you have had a rough day, are tired or irritated. Wait until your calm, joyful and confident mood returns. If you feel tired during training, stop immediately and play with your puppy for a few minutes. Never intimidate your puppy with an angry voice or sudden, impatient movements. Rest yourself and let the puppy rest, then start again.
Remember: you are forcing the puppy to make meaningless movements from his point of view and repeating words that mean nothing to him. There is no doubt that during the first few sessions your puppy will have other ideas about how to have a good time. If you realize this, you will be patient and calm, and the dog will understand what is required of him and will become obedient... over time.
When you are training a very young puppy, it will be enough if he performs the technique correctly once or twice. In this case, be generous with your praise and pause for a moment before continuing with your training. It is very important to end each session with praise and affection for the technique performed so that the puppy feels happy. He will know that studying is fun, and you will use his natural enthusiasm to instill in him an interest in learning and self-confidence.
When you move on to more complex exercises, always end the session with a technique that your dog has already learned to perform, and then praise him generously. After all, she works for you to earn your smile and approval. Therefore, do not skimp on praise for good work. Let your dog hear wonderful and joyful words of encouragement.
Progress chart
When you start training, you will find that it is not a constant progressive process. As in any business, ups and downs await you. Understand this, and you won't feel the bitter disappointment from time to time that you have the stupidest dog in the world.
Be patient, handle your puppy gently, and talk to him kindly. Listen to yourself. This is important not only now, but throughout the entire training phase. When teaching a new technique, never raise your voice or correct your dog roughly, otherwise you will be unfair to him. These rules are the main ones in my training method.
You don't have the luxury of losing your temper. A loud, angry, irritated or demanding tone will frighten the puppy and seriously hinder his further training.
If you are having problems with training, and you suspect that the tone in which you give commands is to blame, turn on the tape recorder, record, and then listen to yourself. I assure you, you will learn a lot about yourself.
Try to work at the height of the puppy. Don't tower over him like a punishing angel, don't give harsh commands and don't expect immediate results. Not only is this perceived as bullying by the dog, but the behavior destroys the puppy's sense of self-confidence and ability to focus and learn.
Your goal is to help your puppy gain confidence in his own strengths and capabilities. Both you and your puppy should look forward to and enjoy each activity.
Dog motivation I want you to understand right away: I am not a fan of rewarding with treats. I don't believe in him. Giving your dog treats during training may seem like an attractive way to get him to do what you want, but overall it is not a reliable or effective method. Think of training as training a team. Build a good relationship with your dog -
loving relationship . They should be the only reason the dog works and tries very hard not to fail. I have trained dogs for over fifty years. In my experience, a dog whose motivation is loyalty and love for its owner will give anything to earn his approval. So give it all too best for the dog, and then you can fully count on
positive result
. And you don’t need to buy a dog’s loyalty with a handout. So I think, although I know that among trainers there are people who do not agree with my point of view.
“Dog schools” and studying at home Some people prefer to train their dog at home. If you are one of them, try to exercise occasionally where there are other dogs. Ask your neighbors or friends if they would like to join their dogs in your classes. If all else fails, seriously consider taking at least one group training course where dogs have the opportunity to socialize with their own kind., other dogs, unexpected sounds and accidents. Another advantage of group classes is that the instructor will draw the owner’s attention to mistakes in handling the dog, giving commands and methods of training.
These mistakes are an inexhaustible source of unintentional training.
However, if you decide to study in a group, attend a class first. Make sure the trainer's methods are based on the philosophy of a positive relationship between owner and dog, the use of praise as a reward and minimal correction. Based on my experience, I can say that a strict collar, rough correction or motivation with a treat is not the way to win the favor and love of your dog.
However, I should note that there are dogs that I call “aggressive”, they show aggressiveness from a very early puppyhood. In this case, I recommend treating them more strictly so that they understand what's what. At the same time, I am not advocating the use of rudeness or force; you just need to persistently teach such a puppy to firm, fair discipline.
Don't forget that these dogs also need praise when they start following your commands. It is very important. When the time is right, when "sharp" dogs are performing well, you will find that they need encouragement even more than dogs with a soft temperament.
It's never too late to start
“Kindergarten” training usually begins between three and six months of age, but don’t let the name of this course fool you. “Kindergarten” training is designed for beginners, but not only for small puppies. If you are just starting training, feel free to use it for dogs of any age.
Collars and leashes for puppies up to four months of age For a puppy less than four months old, use a thin, inexpensive, two-centimeter wide buckle collar made of soft nylon. The lighter the better. Let the puppy carry it around the house to get used to the unfamiliar sensation. Do not think that because the collar will serve the puppy this way short term
, it's a waste of money. Yes, pretty soon it will become too small, but gradually accustoming the puppy to the collar will pay off in the future.
Even if your puppy is large, lively or aggressive, at this age he only needs light collars. The puppy should not carry a heavy collar and leash, which bother him so much that he will soon dislike them and begin to resist. This will create unnecessary and unnecessary problems before you even go to class with him. When you take your puppy for a walk, in addition to the nylon fastening collar, use a two-meter light leash made of loose cotton, no more than 1-1.5 cm wide. Make sure that the carabiner on the leash is also light.
Chapter two
Training Small Dogs Puppy: Simple Techniques and Play-Based Training
Before you start kindergarten training, find a comfortable place to practice. If the puppy is small, use a table or bench. Just lay a rug or an old sheet on them so that the surface is not slippery.
With a large breed puppy, work on the floor, also on a non-slip surface. Stand on the floor on your right knee, with your left knee bent. This creates an L-shaped space in front of you that will help you control the puppy. He is in front of you, standing sideways with his head to the right, his croup resting on your left leg. In this position, the movements of even a restless puppy are limited.
When you teach your puppy the "Stay" command, lean back on your right leg so as not to be hovering over the puppy, as most puppies will perceive this position as intimidating. I advise you to start with the “Stand” command, because it is the easiest. Then move on to the “Sit” and “Lie Down” commands. The puppy is carefully placed, laid down or seated, at the same time giving the command in a gentle and drawn-out manner: “Sit,” “Lie down,” or “Stop.” Don't forget to praise your puppy even if you put him in the right position. It is very important. Praising during exercise helps your puppy feel confident.
Permissive word
It is also important that the puppy knows the permissive word or command that ends the lesson. At the end of the “lesson”, first remove the collar, then, after waiting one or two seconds, say a permissive command, which means that the puppy is free to do whatever he wants. Usually the word is "Everything". After this, play with the puppy for a few minutes.
Three in one
Although you will teach your puppy the Sit, Down and Stay commands separately, you will soon find that they can easily be combined into one exercise once the puppy understands what is required of him. Therefore, when your pet learns individual commands, combine them in any order.
Variety will not get boring for the puppy and will help concentrate his attention. If the puppy is stable in any of the positions for three to five seconds, consider that things are going well.
Classes should take five to ten minutes twice a day.
Your goal is to have your puppy, at the end of kindergarten training, hold each of the three positions for fifteen to thirty seconds. In addition, he must learn to walk on a leash and come to you on command.
"Kindergarten" "Stand"
To teach your puppy the “Stay” command, place the puppy in front of you. His head should be near your right elbow, and his croup should be near your left knee. When you start practicing, be prepared to deal with a bundle of irrepressible energy directed towards the game. Calmly try to get the puppy's attention. Smile and talk softly to him. If you suddenly start staring angrily at him, growling and pushing, the reaction will only be negative.
With your right hand, grab the collar and at the same time bring your left hand, palm down, under the belly near the hind legs. Say his name and give the command “Stand.” Stretch it like an elastic band.
At first, the puppy should hold the position for a few seconds. If, at the command “Wait,” he does not try to move, be sure to praise him. Now you are ready to learn the Sit command.
"Kindergarten" "Sit"
You begin this technique with the puppy standing with his head toward your right elbow. With your right hand, firmly grasp the collar.
The left hand is still under the belly, holding the puppy in the "Stand" position.
Remove your left hand, say the puppy’s name and give the command “Sit.” Say it in a drawn-out, cheerful voice. Using the edge of your left palm, lightly push the puppy under the knees.
At the same time, with your right hand, slightly pull the collar up and back. His legs will fold and he will sit down. Your movements should be smooth and soft. Don't use force - it's a puppy! When he sits, give the command “Wait” with your gesture and voice, then praise him generously and joyfully.
Please note that you should use your left hand to stroke the puppy's back. Gentle stroking and praise give your dog confidence and relieve stress.
"Kindergarten" "Lie"
The command “Lie down” is entered from a sitting position. Although indoor dogs love to roll around, they don't like being forced to do so. The trainer should understand that the dog always resists when it is deprived of support on its front legs.
If you are working on the floor with a large breed puppy, turn him slightly away from you so that he can be laid down freely. Your left leg should be pressed against your puppy's rump so he won't back away when you lay him down. If necessary, hold the collar with your right hand. Reach over your puppy's back with your left hand, grab his left paw, gently lift it and rock it gently until he calms down. While shaking your paw, talk to your puppy in a calm voice. Then release the collar and grab his right paw with your right hand. Hold it for a second or two before picking it up. These few moments prepare the puppy and give him the opportunity to relax.
Slowly pump both paws up and down until you feel the puppy is not resisting, then press your left elbow to the puppy's hip and lay him down while still rocking his paws. Repeat his name and, very gently, the command “Lie down.” Give the command “Wait” with a gesture and voice.
To begin, try to hold it in this position for three to five seconds. Your goal is for the puppy to lie quietly on its own without your intervention. If necessary, you can reinforce “Lie down” with the “Wait” command.
This method of teaching your puppy the "down" command works very well. Do not try to put the puppy down by nudging the head or neck. The dog will resist, being stubborn and feeling defenseless. A trainer who tries to force a dog to lie down creates unnecessary problems.
Leash
By this time, you are ready to combine three separate exercises into one. This is an important “building block” in the training process. In addition to the fact that the puppy is practicing familiar techniques, he is also learning to concentrate.
Work in this order: command “Sit”, “Stand” and “Sit”. Then try Sit, Down, and Sit.
You can use any sequence of commands, just don’t drag out the exercise for too long. A puppy's ability to concentrate is limited, just like a child's.
If a puppy quickly learns commands, trainers usually make one mistake - they try to move on as quickly as possible. Remember that it took a long time for the puppy to learn everything with your help. Don’t try to get him to work on his own too quickly; reduce the amount of help gradually; the puppy will stop understanding you.
Meet the Leash
To get your puppy used to the leash, use a short, lightweight cotton leash with a lightweight carabiner. I recommend wearing a narrow collar made of soft nylon. Attach the leash to the collar.
Let the puppy run around the room for about twenty minutes and get used to the new sensation. Gradually, your pet will stop paying attention to the leash and will run around the house playfully, as always. Remember to unfasten the leash and never leave your puppy unattended with the leash attached.
After a few days, the puppy should get used to the short leash. If not, don't rush. Give him time to settle in and feel free before you start taking him out for walks on a six-foot leash.
Training small dogs: walking on a leash
Walking your dog on a leash will require a lot of space, so I recommend working outside. However, this is not always possible. In this case, choose a room that is more spacious.
How a dog perceives walking on a leash largely depends on whether you hold it correctly or incorrectly. If you are a new trainer, it is best to practice before taking your puppy out.
How to hold a leash correctly
Hang the loop of a two-meter leash on the thumb of your right hand and close your fingers around it. This will give you a firm grip on the leash. Raise your right hand to approximately waist level, holding the loop in it. With your left hand, grasp the leash one third of its length from your right hand. Then fold this third into rings slightly longer than the width of your palm and take it in your right hand.
This will allow you to pick up the leash or let it go. Even if you let go of it, the loop will still remain on your finger. If you use the leash this way, the puppy will not escape you. Let the leash on the collar slack slightly so that the carabiner hangs vertically down.
The left hand should hold the leash at the side. The shoulder to the elbow is pressed to the body, the forearm is slightly raised, the hand is located just below the waist.
A choke collar should not be used on a puppy under four months of age, since the puppy's neck is delicate and its bones are soft. If you suddenly forget and suddenly correct the puppy, you can injure him.
While attaching the leash, talk gently to your puppy.
Reassure him that everything is fine. As soon as the leash is fastened and the dog begins to move, follow him.
Hold the leash loosely, without tension. Let the puppy run wherever he wants. Remember, this is just a walk on a leash, not walking alongside. Now the puppy is getting used to the leash. However, try to keep it on the left side. Walk more carefully, watch your step, otherwise you may inadvertently hit or step on the dog.
Talk to him so that he is always near you. If your puppy gets tangled in the leash, sit down and slowly release him. Call him by his name and reassure him in a soft tone of voice so that he does not get scared. Once you have untangled him, the puppy may refuse to go any further. In this case, take a few steps back, holding the leash in your hands, and try to call him. If necessary, tug lightly on the leash. When the puppy comes towards you, praise him as if he had accomplished a feat, and continue to talk during the further walk.
Try to change direction periodically, keeping the puppy on the left side. Make round turns to the right or left, not at right angles. Take small steps.
We have reached the point where the trainer needs to learn to watch the legs. When giving the “Nearby” command, always start walking with your left foot. This is one of the “building blocks”! Later, when you begin walking during more advanced exercises, your dog will know to stay still.
Left leg - the dog moves nearby.
Right leg - the dog remains in place.
It's also a good idea to keep the first step of the "Near" command short so that the puppy has time to get up and walk next to you.
Don't let your puppy chew on the leash. Carefully remove it from the mouth, but do not pull or tear at yourself, otherwise the puppy will think that you are starting a game of “who will pull who.”
Hold the leash correctly. If it doesn't dangle near your puppy's face, it will be harder for him to reach it.
“Kindergarten” correction on a leash
Once your puppy learns to walk on a leash and you start walking him around, you can apply light correction if necessary. When teaching a dog a new technique, never use harsh correction. This is the basis of my training method. When a dog learns a new technique, it does not understand what you want from it, and therefore does not deserve harsh correction. On the other hand, don't give a stubborn or harsh dog any slack.
The correction now is to not let the puppy go too far from you in order to coordinate your actions. The puppy needs gentle correction. Keep your elbow pressed to your body, slightly raise your hand and lightly pull the leash toward you. That's enough for now.
"Kindergarten" "Sit/Wait"
After the puppy has learned the commands “Sit”, “Stand” and “Lie down” and is walking on a leash, we will teach him one more exercise. Attach the leash. Give the commands “Sit” and “Wait”, take a couple of steps, starting with right leg
and turn to the puppy. Give the command “Wait” again in a cheerful voice.
If the puppy stays put, praise him generously. If he doesn’t understand what you want or just wants to come to you, gently sit him down and again command “Wait.”
Keep your tone of voice cheerful and light. Don't scold the puppy. Don't say "No!" Tell him what he should do, not what he shouldn't do. Once the dog understands what is required of it, praise it. This is an important “building block” that you will need throughout all subsequent training courses. Teach your puppy to do this exercise well.
"Kindergarten" "To me"
You are walking with your puppy on a leash. Stop and take a couple steps back. Call the puppy and give the command “Come to me.” If he doesn't fit, lightly tug on the leash. Get the puppy to sit in front of you. Watch your voice; it should sound soft and inviting. If the puppy refuses to come, step back another step or two and lightly clap your hands. When the puppy approaches you, extend your folded palms forward at the level of your knees, calves or ankles, depending on the size of the puppy, as if you were holding balloon
. As you approach, slowly raise your palms so that the puppy is looking at your face. Usually, when you have to look so high, the puppy automatically sits down. Don't forget to praise him happily.
If the dog looks up but does not sit, help him by slightly pulling up on the leash and pushing the puppy under his knees, just as you did when teaching the Sit command.
Try to have the puppy come to you not when you call his name, but on command. If the first time he did not come on command, play with him a little, then repeat the exercise.
This is another “brick” that you will definitely need in the future. Let the puppy learn this command properly and perform it correctly.
"Kindergarten" jumps
Secure the board properly so that it does not fall and scare the puppy. If you don't have such a set, take a board about one and a half meters long and twenty centimeters wide and paint it white. Again, make sure it is well reinforced.
Place the board so that there is about three meters of free space on both sides of it. Attach the leash and lead the puppy to the board so that he can explore the area where he will jump. Tap the board with your hand. Let the puppy sniff it. Show him that she is not a threat.
The puppy should be on the left side before jumping. From a distance of about three meters, quickly walk him towards the board, without trying to keep him walking next to you. About half a meter from the board, give the command “Barrier!” Calculate your steps so that your left foot steps fifteen to twenty centimeters from the board, and then, without slowing down, jump over it, landing on your left foot. Looking at you, the puppy will jump over too. The leash should hang freely at this time. As soon as the puppy lands, praise him happily.
It is better to first try to approach the board and calculate the steps without the puppy. Once you get the hang of it, start working with the puppy. Remember: the puppy will watch your left leg.
After jumping over the board with the puppy, do not jump in the opposite direction, but go around the board and return to the starting position.
Don't force your puppy to sit or walk next to you - let him have plenty of fun with you. During one lesson he should jump no more than three or four times.
I remember one trainer who assured me in class that her dog had never refused to jump, and asked me to see how well she did it. It turned out that the trainer simply lifted her into the air on a leash and placed her on the other side of the barrier. It took me a long time to convince her that the dog should jump on its own. In the end, we attached a rubber band between the carabiner and the collar, and the trainer went to jump again. She, as usual, began to lift the dog, but the rubber band broke, and the dog remained standing on the other side of the board, watching as her owner bravely took the barrier. And she was not a novice trainer. Here is a typical example of unintentional training!
Therefore, hold the leash correctly, leaving enough slack to allow your dog to move freely. When approaching the board, make sure you do not pull on the leash, thereby throwing your puppy off balance or carrying him over the barrier.
"Kindergarten" training through play
When I start explaining about playing with a puppy, many owners are surprised - what can I say, everything is already clear. They imagine the game as follows: run around with the puppy a little, leave the squeaker for him and pull on an old sock with him. That's all.
I am in no way criticizing such games; they are an important part of any puppy’s life. But what I want to teach is controlled play that takes advantage of the puppy's natural curiosity. It consists of the puppy taking and giving a toy. This is another very important “building block”. You add two useful words: “Give” and “Take.” The puppy learns to take an object and give it back. These two commands will be useful to him in his general training course.
In addition, the training process turns into a game, and the puppies develop the skill of working with a fetch object. Play it often.
Special toys
The toys I use and recommend you use are unusual. My personal set includes corn on the cob, large and small sponge balls, wooden dowels, rubber toys and much, much more.
There are a great many things that you can adapt into “special” toys.
“Take” play time cannot correct the puppy’s behavior.
It's time to have fun. If, for example, you are competing to see who can pull who, let the puppy win. Let him feel the joy of victory! If your puppy gives you a toy or brings you a thrown ball, praise him happily. He will feel like he won a million dollars in the lottery.
Most dogs love to carry balls, sticks and all kinds of toys. Start playing with what your puppy loves most. Keep several different toys on hand.
If one toy does not attract the puppy's attention, then he will probably be interested in another. Start with the one your puppy likes best.
Find a wooden rod that is the right size for your puppy and place a sponge ball on each side of it. When offering it to the dog, cover the balls with your palms, this will force the puppy to take it in the middle. Do not make too fast movements, otherwise your pet will not be able to follow you.
Talk to your puppy constantly. For example: “Take this.
Want? Take it." When he takes the rod into his mouth: “Okay, take it!” Well done! Ho-oro-osho-o-o!” Talk until your puppy takes the toy, then praise him generously. But don't let your dog chew or chew it.
If the puppy is reluctant to take the wooden rod, stretch a cambric or a piece of thin rubber hose over it.
If you throw a toy to your puppy to get him to fetch it back, don't throw it too far. And don't correct him when he gives it back to you. Your task is to ensure that the puppy enjoys the game and receives praise and attention, then he is a winner! If you laugh with your puppy, smile and repeat how smart he is, then he is a winner! If you are happy with him, he will look forward to the next game.
During the games you not only have fun, but also lay down the next “building blocks”. The puppy will strive to do what you want for the sake of a smile and praise.
This chapter describes initial training intended both for those who want to compete and show under AKC rules and for those who want to raise an obedient companion dog. For the trainer who is new to competition, the training techniques suggested here will help to understand the AKC requirements. It often happens that people who are passionate about training begin not only to become interested in sporting events held within the framework of the AKC, but also to take an active part in them.
Whatever your goal, work with such love and enthusiasm that your pet will become infected with it, so that he, as well as you, will enjoy the exercise. This approach will bring you both satisfaction and unfailing success.
Success curve
Most dogs make impressive progress in the first weeks of training. This is a wonderful time when the trainer, having worked hard with a playful puppy and believing that nothing good will come of it, begins to think that with persistence he can achieve anything. His hopes are rising.
Then, out of the blue, in the fifth or sixth week the dog suddenly refuses to understand the simplest commands. She seems confused, as if she is being spoken to in a language she has never heard and forced to do something she has never done. Do not despair. It’s just that the success curve flattens out during this period.
Take comfort in the fact that you are not alone in experiencing such upsetting moments. This is a dog's reaction to constant intense exercise. She seems to be telling you: “I’ve had enough!”
It's time to get some rest. Cheer up. Give your dog a few days of rest and have fun with him without demanding anything from him. At this time, reconsider your training methods. Make sure you give the commands correctly and have the dog's attention fully.
Get over your disappointment.
Then start again with the commands "Near" and "Sit", but work very little at a time. Then stop. Shorten your daily activities and practice one skill at a time. Don't forget to praise your dog. Let her know that when she performs well, you are very happy with her. This will be the most significant motivation for her.
Gradually return to your previous system of classes. You will find that small “vacations” serve their purpose and mean more than increasing the intensity of training and harsh correction that demoralizes the dog.
When training young dogs, use the lightest equipment possible; select a collar and leash that suits the size and weight of your dog.
Equipment for a puppy from six months to a year
When the puppy is four months old, choose a soft, flat nylon collar with a clasp, one and a half to two centimeters wide, for constant wear. For a large puppy, buy a wider collar - two and a half to three centimeters. You can attach a plate to it with the dog’s name, its registration number and your phone number.
For training, I recommend a narrow nylon choke collar, five to seven centimeters longer than the circumference of the puppy’s neck. The point is that correction must be carried out immediately after the dog makes a mistake. If the collar is even longer, the novice trainer simply will not have time to tighten it quickly enough, thereby the correction loses its effectiveness.
If your dog has a large head with lots of hair and a thin neck, try using a choke collar with two rings that thread through each other. This way you won't have to put it over your dog's head and ears. Although such collars are prohibited in AKC competitions, they are excellent for training purposes. Always remember: the better the collar fits, the greater the control over adjustments.
Leashes
Use a lightweight cotton leash, one and a half to two centimeters wide, with a small carabiner, as it is easy to handle, easy to fold, and does not cut into your hands.
You can also buy a leather leash, but I don't like them for several reasons: firstly, they are usually equipped with large and heavy carabiners; secondly, they stretch, especially when wet, and do not fit very comfortably in the hand. Nylon leashes are slippery, and when the dog breaks the leash, they burn the palm of your hand.
During classes, some trainers are afraid that the dog will run away from them. They are the ones who buy heavy equipment for them, so that, in their opinion, they do not take risks. If they have not learned anything in training and rely only on their own strength, then, of course, they need a strong collar and leash and a heavy carabiner. They constantly pull their dogs and find fault with them. This is negative training. This is not the way to treat a dog because it gives the wrong impression of training.
On the other hand, there are others - those who are truly afraid of their dogs, and dogs have learned to control their owners. They usually wear heavy equipment too. But it won’t solve the problem, but good training will.
Training collars
I recommend using nylon rather than steel chain collars. Even small chain is much heavier than nylon, so any correction will require a more powerful pull. In addition to this, the dog can hear the ringing of the metal rings when you make the adjustment, which reduces its effectiveness. Many trainers, especially those with large breed dogs, tend to purchase steel collars because they believe they are stronger. This is wrong. If you compare the load capacity of collars and leashes (usually indicated on the labels), you will see that it is almost the same for both nylon and steel equipment. Nylon choke collars are more comfortable for the dog; they do not catch on the dog's fur or pinch the neck.
It is important to wear the collar correctly. If you make an adjustment with a collar that is not on correctly, it will tighten and stay that way rather than become loose again as it should be.
Use the training leash only during training. When walking, wear a flat nylon collar with a clasp and identification plate.
I am often asked if it is possible to train a dog using a collar. I never use these types of collars in my classes. There are much better training methods than using such equipment.
However, they are very popular in some areas of the US.
Some are convinced that one tug of a strict collar during correction is worth many ineffective tugs of a nylon collar. I disagree. If you correctly correct your dog with a soft nylon collar, you won't have to do a lot of ineffective tugging and the results will be great. I do not see the advantage of strict collars and do not believe that they force the dog to work not out of fear, but out of conscience. In addition, there have been cases where dog collars have damaged the vocal cords of dogs.
Hold the leash with both hands
Although we have previously explained how to hold a leash correctly, this is an important enough point to warrant repeating. How you hold the leash will determine how quickly your dog will start walking next to you.
I recommend that new trainers place the leash loop around their thumb. Holding the loop, raise your right arm to waist height. Twist about a meter of leash into loops around your right palm. The left hand is lowered and freely holds the leash loose. The carabiner hangs vertically down. The dog should not feel pressure on its neck. Holding the leash this way will give you complete control over your dog. Correct and guide the dog with your left hand.
Left hand When you get enough more experience
, you may prefer to hold the leash in your left hand only. In this case, correction is carried out with one brush. However, at the very beginning, I advise you to hold the leash with both hands.
Right hand
Some trainers are taught to hold the leash in their right hand.
It is folded, the hand is at waist height, the carabiner hangs freely. The correction is carried out with a sharp jerk.
The disadvantage of this is that depending on the size of the dog, you may need to use both hands to correct it. In addition, by correcting the walking side by side with one hand, you pull the dog towards you, unintentionally teaching him to rub against your legs. An inexperienced trainer cannot ensure complete control over the dog in this way.
Initial training: basic techniques
If the dog does them well, encourage and praise the dog. Listen to the tone of your own voice. When a dog needs correction, add firm notes, but not angry or rude ones.
The "Stand" command for beginners
Kneel to the right of the dog. With your right hand, grab the collar at the withers, back side palms up. This will help you control the dog's head. Using the edge of the palm of your left hand with closed fingers, touch the dog’s hind legs above the knees. The back of your left hand should barely touch your stomach. This keeps the dog in place in the “Stand” position. At the same time, with your right hand, slightly pull the collar up and forward, and with your left, lightly press on the hind legs. The force of both hands should be approximately the same. Don't pull your dog too hard, or you'll just lift him off the ground.
At the same time, give the command: first say the dog’s name, followed by a drawn-out “Sto-o-o-a-at.”
Make sure the dog is standing in a comfortable position. As soon as you see that she is standing on her own, release the collar and give the command “Wait” with a gesture and voice, and stretch her in exactly the same way as the previous one.
The command with the “Wait” gesture is given as follows: the right hand, palm forward, with fingers closed and straightened, is placed at a distance of fifteen to twenty centimeters from the dog’s muzzle. Then, with a smooth movement, the palm approaches and stops five to seven centimeters from the muzzle. The movement should not be aggressive or threatening. Repeat this command several times until you can remove your left palm from under the belly while the dog remains in the “Stand” position. If everything went well, don't forget to generously praise your pet.
Commands should be given in a drawn-out, cheerful voice. At the end of any exercise, you need to reward the dog.
This exercise should be started immediately after practicing the “Sit” skill. You continue to sit on your lap next to the dog. Remember not to lean over it.
Grab the collar at the withers with your right hand, with the back of your hand facing up. Then with your left hand, palm down, gently push the dog under the stifle tendon located above the hock joint, at the same time lightly pull the collar up and back - the dog's legs will fold and he will sit.
At the same time say her name and give the command “Sit”.
Grasp the collar with your left hand, and with your right hand give the command “Wait”. The movement should be smooth and slow, and the voice should be soft. When your dog sits without your help, praise him sincerely.
These two techniques should be practiced continuously one after the other until light pressure on the collar is enough to force the dog to change position.
The "Down" command for beginners
This exercise will require more patience as dogs do not like to lose their balance. If you try to get your pet to relax his legs when you pick him up from the ground and talk to him soothingly, this will make your task much easier.
When you praise your dog, do not overdo it, because he will want to jump up for joy.
This technique should be learned on a leash, which should lie in front of the dog.
Once your pet understands the “Down” command, reinforce it with the appropriate gesture, which looks like this: Raise your right arm forward from the elbow, palm facing forward, fingers closed and straightened. Then lower your hand in a smooth motion. At first, the movement should be slow so that the dog can follow it.
Chapter Four
Training small dogs: walking nearby on a leash
To teach the dog to walk side by side on a leash, a training choke collar is worn. When you pull it on, there should be no more than five to seven centimeters of length left in it.
Attach the leash either to both rings at once, or to the movable ring, but not to the ring at the end of the leash. When you teach a dog a new technique, under no circumstances make a harsh correction, since the dog does not yet know what they want from it, and correction in this case is pointless.
You can correct the dog later, when it understands what needs to be done.
Place the dog on the left, near the leg. She should sit next to you, but not touching your leg.
You hold the leash rolled up in your right hand at waist level, the carabiner on the collar hangs vertically down. Your left hand is down, relaxed and loosely holding the leash. However, you must be ready at any time with a slight movement of your left hand to prevent an error or make a correction.
Before moving, say the dog’s name and give the command “Nearby”. Start the movement with your left leg, thereby giving the dog a sign to move with you.
As you move forward, the leash will tighten, give it a little tug. The dog should not stay behind - otherwise it may develop a very bad habit of trailing behind you. If this happens at a trial or competition, holding the dog back will cost you half a point or more. Talk as you walk forward, for example: “Come with me... What a smart dog!” The voice should be light and cheerful. A lot depends on the tone of voice during training.
How to move with your dog
After you take a short first step, walk normally. If you adapt to the dog's pace, he will soon understand this and will lag behind. Walk as you always walk, but try to bring your feet straight forward and not lift them high. This will help the dog learn to walk next to you correctly.
This exercise requires two participants - the owner and the dog.
Don't think that your dog will do everything on his own. Of course it is important that he learns to adapt to your movements, but it is equally important that you move naturally while at the same time helping the dog to perform the technique correctly.
It is useful to practice for a while in front of a mirror before teaching your pet to walk next to you. If you try this, you will initially be unpleasantly surprised by your gait. Try to walk in a straight line, raising your legs low.
Don't try to walk too fast, otherwise you won't be able to control your dog or see him walk. The more you practice, the smoother and more confident your movements will become.
This will allow you to work better with your dog.
Your gait
When working, keep your head high and your body straight. Walk smoothly and elastically. But an exaggerated, pseudo-combatant step is also not suitable. You should walk straight, feeling free and relaxed.
If you want to lean towards the dog, for example, to praise, it is better to kneel or squat. Dogs do not like being hovered over, perceiving this as a threatening position.
During your first few lessons you will obviously have to give the Sit command a few times, but don't overuse it.
Make sure your dog sits correctly. Don't be satisfied with a casual landing. If necessary, correct him with short, sharp jerks of the leash. Be persistent, and soon your pet will learn to sit automatically when walking nearby. Don't forget to praise her.
At first, make the stop exaggerated: raise your left leg higher and stop: this will serve as an additional signal to the dog that it needs to sit down. In the future, when she gets used to it, stop naturally.
If you are performing in competition and the judge says “Stop!”, you should not stop immediately. You are allowed to take one or two more steps to stop with your right foot and plant your left. However, if you shuffle your heel or tap your left foot, the judge may take this as an additional command and the technique will be considered a failure.
Talk to your dog
Once again, when you are training your dog, it is very important to talk to him in an encouraging tone. It is also important that your voice sounds natural and joyful. I advise you to tape one lesson and then listen to it. This is a great way to understand how your dog hears you. The recording will help you evaluate your tone of voice and how much or little you are talking to your dog.
Remember, when you say the dog's name, your voice should sound joyful, as if you are pleased to say it.
The command should be given clearly, firmly and encouragingly. Don't say it like you're declaring war on the dog. You can lose it.
During class, you both learn, and learning should be fun for you. The way you give the first command (sullenly or cheerfully) will create the appropriate atmosphere for the entire lesson.
Constantly encourage the dog with animation: “What a good boy (girl)!”, “Well done!”, “Nearby”, “Okay, well done!”, “Smart dog!” etc. Your voice should under no circumstances be begging or sucking up. On the other hand, he should not be angry or tense.
When correcting, do not grumble or find fault with the dog, this may discourage him from training. Correct her, then return to a lively, encouraging tone and encouragement.
Don't confuse your dog when you talk to him.
Give commands without distortion. Reward with the same phrases and use them more often.
Do not hurry
It is important that the trainer conducts the classes calmly. You can't control your dog if you don't control yourself.
Excitement and anger are bad helpers in training because they make dogs stubborn and difficult to train.
It is also important to take your time when working. The time for each lesson should be enough for calm, hard work. Concentrate completely on what you are doing and carefully observe what the dog is doing. Then you will be able to correctly understand the dog by its behavior. It is very important. This way you can catch training errors before they become persistent and thereby avoid unintentional training.
The words you use to correct your dog should always be on your tongue, then you will be ready to react as needed. You should strive to prevent a mistake before your dog even makes one. It's easier than fixing it later.
We all know how much time, patience and energy it takes to fix bugs. I'd like to discuss a few more problems that can arise if you rush your classes.
The dog walks faster and faster, and very soon it is he who begins to lead the trainer. This is unintentional training. Usually in such cases the trainer does not realize that he is following the dog and believes that the dog is performing the trick perfectly. Remember: the purpose of walking your dog close, like any other technique, is to teach the dog to adapt to you.
I don't mean to say that you shouldn't take your dog's natural stride into account when training. You must work as one team. However, you choose the pace and you change it, and the dog must learn to adapt to your choice.
Natural dog walk
Every dog, every breed has its own special movements, unique to it. A dog with a natural gait moves lively and interestedly, without being distracted by extraneous stimuli, and here it is important to determine it in order to use it for further work.
How to keep your dog's attention when walking nearby
When practicing the “Nearby” command, change direction more often, do not walk straight ahead for too long. The dog already knows how to walk next to you, and if you don't turn it around from time to time, it will soon lose interest. Lagging behind, running ahead and moving to the side are often caused by the dog becoming inattentive.
It is also important to make the activity interesting for the dog. Don't follow the same pattern, otherwise she will soon get bored.
Attract the dog's attention during the exercise by whistling, talking, etc. And all the time pay attention to how you place or start the step with your left leg. Keep your posture. The way you hold yourself, the way you walk, is a definite signal for the dog. In addition, your voice should be calm and friendly. Manage the leash correctly. Do not give your dog one signal with your voice and a second signal, exactly the opposite, with your leash. Prepare for every lesson. Think about and prepare the words you will need when correcting and praising.
Slow and fast pace
The purpose of the exercise is to control the dog's stride when changing tempo.
When changing the tempo to a slow one, do not take small, mincing steps. Walk at a normal pace, gradually slowing it down. Don't try to immediately switch from fast to slow pace and back. Do this smoothly over a few seconds.
A fast pace is an easy jog - but not standing still! Move to it just as gradually and smoothly.
I recommend starting classes with a faster step, and then switching to a slow or natural one.
Teach your dog to think A great technique when learning to walk side by side is to make a circle and then immediately switch to quick step
. Let the dog get used to different exercises in different sequences.
Teach your dog to think. The monotonous repetition of techniques, as required by the standards of obedience competitions, bores her, and she begins to perform them mechanically. There are working dogs that are absolutely lost if the sequence of techniques changes. You don't need one like that. The dog must be constantly ready to work and understand what it is doing.
Work with your dog so that it responds appropriately to changing situations. Still, the dog spends most of its life outside the show ring and competition area, so training should be focused on everyday life. If a dog demonstrates good working skills in the training area, this does not mean that it is well trained.
A well-trained dog should behave with dignity at home, in classes, and generally wherever you take it. To achieve this, you must hold her attention during training, keep her on her toes by performing different techniques in different sequences to make sure she understands what she is doing and reacts accordingly to the changing environment.
As soon as the dog has taken the desired position, say its name and command “Nearby”. Then turn left by stepping over it with your left foot. Try not to hit it with your left foot! This is not a correction! On the contrary, turns to the left keep the dog sideways and prevent him from running forward.
Training Small Dogs: Lag
Many problems that cause a dog to lag behind its owner arise from careless, inattentive walking by the trainer.
There is a certain speed at which a dog looks and feels good. There is liveliness in her gait. In order for her to keep up, let your gait become elastic. A sluggish, apathetic gait will not solve the problem. You want the dog to perk up! A smooth, energetic gait will help keep her attention. The puppy will not have time to ignore you.
It will also help if you take steps forward that aren't too long. Turn left, right and around. This exercise is not easy to endure for long, especially if you have large breed dogs, so be careful.
The dog gets too close to its owner
There are several such training mistakes that lead to the dog “climbing” onto the owner. Some trainers keep leashes too tight, thereby pulling the dog towards them. When walking your dog nearby on a leash, make sure there is enough loose leash so that the carabiner hangs vertically down. A trainer who praises a dog by squeezing his leg is also inadvertently teaching the dog to walk too close. Praise large breed puppies by lightly scratching their chin. You can even scratch your dog's neck lightly. right side . By doing this, you are telling the dog that if he keeps his head straight, he will receive praise, otherwise no praise! WITH small breeds
you'll have to bend over. To prevent your dog from walking next to you, praise him with your shoulder open.
At home, when a dog comes to you for affection, do not press it to your leg, otherwise this habit will transfer into training classes. Your puppy loves attention and loves to be close to you, so be aware of this unintentional training mistake.
Whatever the reason, do not correct it in such a way that the puppy later resents you.
A simple but effective method to correct your dog when he wanders too far away from you is to push him against a curb or the edge of your house. Don't walk too close to it and especially don't touch it with your feet, just walk so that the dog is between you and the curb. You must walk quickly and straight.
This is also a good place to practice the “Sit” command if the dog sits incorrectly. Here it is difficult for her to turn at an angle in relation to the owner.
You can also work on the sidewalk. Walk along the sidewalk so that the dog is on the outside, on the edge. If she sits incorrectly, her tail will hang down, and it will be uncomfortable for her to walk widely, since in order not to fall, she will have to cling to her owner.
These methods are reliable and simple, and nevertheless, like any method that helps the trainer, use it as needed: as soon as the need for it no longer exists, stop using it.
Turns right and left
When turning with your dog, remember that your left leg is the key for him. Through it you convey information to the dog.
Do not forget that your body should remain straight, your knees together, your legs should not rise high. When turning, turning the whole thing, don't turn the lower body first, then the lower one? Do not run ahead of the dog, blocking its path.
The principle is simple: when turning left, step forward with your left foot, then step forward with your right. Keep your steps as short as possible.
To turn left, do the same, only in reverse order.
When starting out, we all want to make sharp, military turns, but I've found that gradual ones work much better. Over time, when your cuts become flawless, you can make them sharper. But do not command with a harsh voice, do not use army bearing or army techniques - many judges do not like this.
When practicing left turns, never push your dog with your foot! She should already understand that your left leg is a source of information, not correction. If a correction is required during a left turn, make it with the leash in your left hand.
Circle to the right, circle to the left
Describing circles to the right and left perfectly prepares the dog for the “figure eight” - describing the figure “eight”.
To perform this exercise, do not start walking in a straight line.
Start walking side by side towards the right in a circle with a diameter of about a meter and a half. Go full circle, returning to where you started. Now you can walk in a straight line.
You will have to try to keep the dog in the correct "Nearby" position when you turn right. To do this, slightly lower your right hip and right shoulder. Moving in a circle, the dog will monitor the position of your body, using it as a source of information. However, when turning right, do not bring your left hand forward.
Since the dog is on the outside of the circle, he will have to keep up with you. If you walk a little faster, the dog will be more distracted, and if you talk to him at the same time, his attention will be completely given to you. Turning left is done in the same way. This time you will lower your left hip and left shoulder slightly - but without rotating your torso. And don't get it bad habit
pull your left hand behind you when you make a left turn.
The dog is now in the inner part of the circle and must walk a little slower to maintain normal speed. Don't let her get ahead. Your conversation with her will help this.
Turning around
For some reason, round turns seem to be the most difficult, although there are no hard and fast rules for performing them. You walk at a natural pace. Whatever you do is considered correct as long as it looks natural and natural.
If you find it difficult to walk in a straight line, like many people, draw a straight line and practice turning in a circle near a wall or curb. Constantly try to think about your body movements. If used correctly, they are the most valuable source of information for a dog. On the other hand, incorrect movements confuse the dog.
Here are some helpful tips: Turn your whole body at once. Remember that your left leg is the dog's source of information. Keep your knees together, otherwise your left leg will refuse to move too far back after the turn. Usually, after turning, the dog will be a couple of steps behind the handler, and if you lift your left foot while your left leg is still behind you, you may inadvertently hit the dog. Therefore, try to keep your legs together and not raise your feet high.
Another helpful advice: Your first step after turning around should be very short. This will give the dog time to circle around you and keep up.
Lag when turning around
If the dog is late, give the command “Near” immediately before the turn. Pull the leash, say the dog’s name and firmly say “Here!” Then make a circle. To get your dog's attention, give the command before turning. If it lags and you are forced to speed up after a turn, correct its stroke, just remember that the correction should be applied before the turn. Don't scold the dog.
A few words of encouragement after correction will be enough to make her behave more confidently.
Correction for the “Sit” command
There are a lot of mistakes when making the “Sit” command, and dogs are not responsible for everything; owners also contribute their share.
There are trainers who run into their dogs when they stop. This is a fairly common problem. Does she help the dog? Obviously, the trainers think so, otherwise they wouldn’t do it.
Naturally, the dog tries to sit away from such a trainer, and this has become such a habit for them that they do not pay attention to it.
Don't step on the dog! If you're about to leave, why should she bother walking next to you?
When you compete in obedience competitions, the judge will not give you any points if you run into the dog. You see how important it is that the dog sits correctly - after all, you can lose from three to five points on just one exercise.
There is another mistake that is attributed to the dog, but which is however caused by the trainer: the dog sits too far back. When stopping, do not lower your thigh and, accordingly, your left leg vertically. The dog will misinterpret this as a turn sign. To correct these mistakes, practice alone, without your dog.
It is very important that you pay attention to your body movements at every moment. Avoid common mistakes. Your task is to know your every move, because the dog must understand what information it receives from it and act accordingly.
The dog must sit down immediately after stopping. Don't wait for your dog to decide whether or where to sit. Give the command, then reinforce it with the leash. As soon as the dog sits down, start walking again. When you stop the second time, the dog's attention should be directed towards you. This time, give the command only with your voice, but be prepared to use the leash correction as well.
Another way to correct your dog when he sits in front of the handler is to wrap the leash around himself. Hold it in your right hand as usual. If you have a small breed puppy, keep it low, if you have a large breed, keep it higher. Then walk your dog nearby and stop. But if the dog sits in front, the leash wrapped around the back will prevent him from sitting in front.
Repeat the exercise until the dog sits up normally.
Don’t forget to praise those dogs that “lean” against their owner correctly, without pressing them against the leg. A good solution for such dogs is to walk her around several times and stop, without leaving enough time for her to “lean” against her owner.
To correct the position, you do not need to pull the leash in front of the dog with your left hand, otherwise he will not be able to sit straight and naturally. Make sure the leash hangs loose enough that the dog sits naturally at knee level, or if the breed is small, at ankle level. But you should be able to correct the dog at any time, so the leash should not be too loose.
If you feel a correction is necessary, hold the rolled leash firmly in your right hand at waist level. Not higher. With your left hand, quickly move along the leash and stop it at the dog's head. Don't hit her! Just stop your hand behind your head. This movement with the left hand pulls the leash tightly and sharply. This is how you need to correct an incorrect fit. Do not pull the leash up or forward!
The dog should sit from the very first lesson. Don't let it sit incorrectly, thinking you can adjust the fit later. Walking “Nearby” and landing are inextricably linked techniques. You should not try to ensure that the dog walks “Side by” perfectly and sits waddle or sideways, or sits perfectly and walks “Side by” disgustingly. Both the dog and you should consider both of these techniques to be one. It is always easier to start an exercise correctly and not return to it again than to teach a dog to do it incorrectly, and then spend a lot of effort and work to correct it.
Exercise "eight"
The “figure eight” exercise sharpens the skills acquired while walking “Nearby”, keeping the dog’s attention on changing the direction and rhythm of the owner’s walking. It includes slow, fast and normal walking side by side, as well as automatic sitting down when stopping.
When you start teaching your dog this technique, ask two people to help you or get two wooden barrels or round iron containers somewhere. If you managed to get helpers, place them facing each other at a distance of about two and a half meters. Throughout the exercise, they must stand motionless with their arms folded on their chest.
Fasten the leash and stand with the dog at a distance of half a step from the line connecting the barrels. Say the dog's name, give him the "Near" command, and take a half step forward to give the dog time to rise before you make your first turn. If you decide to turn left first, lower your left hip and left shoulder slightly without turning your body so as not to block your dog's path.
Since the turn is inside (meaning that the dog is between you and the barrel), he needs to learn to go slower during this section in order to remain in the correct side-by-side position.
At the beginning of training, slow down the pace yourself so that the dog thinks that it should go through this segment slowly. Gradually, she will learn to walk slowly here, even if you walk at your normal pace.
Make the turn wide enough so that the dog does not hit the barrel. Make a circle around it, but not a narrow oval or just a left turn.
As soon as you go around the first barrel, start making a right turn. Lower your right hip and right shoulder slightly without rotating your body. This is an outside turn (i.e. the dog stays on the outside of the circle), so the dog must go faster here. In this case, at the beginning of training, speed up your pace so that the dog walks faster.
When performing this exercise, do not lift your legs high. Hold the leash correctly. Talk to your dog to get its attention. If the dog on the left circle rushes forward, adjust his movement so that he walks alongside. If your dog lags behind on a right turn, correct him with the leash so that he goes faster. After the dog has corrected the movement, do not forget to praise it.
As you continue the exercise, you should walk at your normal pace, and the dog should adapt to you.
Command “Nearby” from the position “in front of the owner”
In this exercise, you teach your dog to move to the Side position on command while he sits in front of you.
There are two accepted ways to perform this exercise. In the first, the dog walks around the owner from behind. With this method, you call the dog’s name and give the command “Nearby”. The dog should walk around you from behind to the right and sit next to you on the left.
As mentioned above, all movements that help the dog perform the off-leash technique are good for the time being. Once the dog understands what is required of it, movements with the right or left hand should be removed.
Chapter Five
Correction and encouragement
In my opinion, the highest class of training is to correct mistakes without resorting to correction. If during training you can correct your dog's mistakes without using harsh correction (for example, the dog sits too far away and you keep him from moving forward by pulling on the leash), then this will only strengthen your friendship.
However, as with everything, you have to think about what you are doing. I don't like it when a trainer provokes a dog into making a mistake and then corrects it.
Learn to understand your dog, and then you will understand which methods will bring the greatest effect. This should be the goal of every trainer. Only you can get to know your dog well enough to determine whether he needs a gentle approach or firm discipline and a firm hand. If the dog works well, then you are training him well.
If you have behavioral and learning problems, observe yourself from the outside. Perhaps you make mistakes during the training process.
Whatever correction method you choose, do not get angry with the dog and do not annoy him with nagging! You will unintentionally train your dog to use multiple commands. Your dog needs to know that the command is carried out the first time, not the second or third time.
However, I must emphasize that it is often possible to get rid of a problem that arises by supposedly not paying attention to it. This may seem like a contradiction, but it's not. Let's give an example.
Problem: When you stop, the dog puts his front paws on your legs.
Remember: if you can correct a mistake without drawing your dog's attention to it, you will get away with little pain. The dog will simply forget that such a dog can even exist in the world. If you dwell on it again and again, the dog will remember it. Try to resort to the type of correction without correction that was given in the example.
Each of us remembers some act from our childhood for which we were severely punished. We remember because our parents made it so meaningful that it became impossible to forget.
The same thing often happens during training, and then people wonder why a small mistake grows into a big problem. If your dog is stubborn or if you have made the mistake of correcting your dog with too much effort, he will repeat it to spite you.
Use the no-correction method before the error actually becomes a problem and more stringent correction methods become necessary. To do this, you need to carefully observe the dog during the initial stages of learning a new exercise. Even if the error has become chronic, this method will still work, but fixing it will require much more time and patience.
If you fail at a particular technique, go back to the old one, which the dog performs well. To some this may not seem relevant to correction, but nevertheless this method works. Build your dog's confidence and pretend that your problem is forgotten for a while, then return to it again. I assure you that it is not necessary to arrange a battle of characters out of every situation.
If you are a fan of correction without punishment, never give your dog an “Aha! Gotcha!
Make it seem like the mistake wasn't her fault, no matter how long it takes. Eventually it will dawn on her that she is wrong, and this will happen without any feelings of resentment.
Resentment
To avoid this kind of stubbornness in training, do not cause resentment in the dog, because stubbornness most often conceals resentment or displeasure. No dog will work with such feelings. So use your imagination. Try to use correction methods without correction or correction without punishment.
I must emphasize again that you must get to know your dog's personality, understand it, and keep in mind at all times that you are working together as a team.
A dog understands when it is being disrespected. If you don't consider her a companion and constantly expect her to let you down, you can be sure that she will understand your every thought. Always think of your dog as a reliable and devoted friend who will do whatever is required of him and help at any moment.
Correction with a leash
Correction with a leash requires precise timing - it must be immediate. You must anticipate what your dog will do - whether it is something right or wrong. You must always be alert and ready to react.
Proper correction includes things like whether you are pulling the leash correctly and whether you have secured it correctly. You cannot “telegraph” a correction so that the dog knows to correct the mistake immediately. If the leash hangs too loosely, by the time it tightens, the dog will already know that a correction is coming, and the effect will disappear. If, for example, she lags behind when walking next to you, then by the time you are ready to “telegraph” the correction, she will catch up, and then lag behind again. There are two effective methods
leash corrections, and each is used for different purposes. The first is intended for correction of fit, the second - for correction in general, where it is necessary.
The second type of correction I call “fist turn.” All you have to do is turn your fist with the leash clamped in it. Hold it in your right hand at waist level. The left hand hangs at the side, lightly holding the leash. When you need to make a correction, firmly grasp the leash with your left hand and turn your palm slightly upward.
As you unfold your fist, press your elbow and move it forward slightly so that the leash seems to “click.” However, make sure that the leash is attached correctly so that the carabiner does not hit the dog in the eye when you make the correction.
At this moment, it is important to evaluate your own strengths. This correction is designed for large breed dogs, so use it according to your dog's age, weight and size.
It is up to you to determine the method of correction for your dog, and the criterion should be what leads to the best results and promotes the development of mutual understanding between you and your pet. Don't think you will get a happy, working, friendly dog by using intimidation and violence.
It doesn't happen that way. However, there are times when a dog needs a firm hand. To claim otherwise would be misleading. So get ready for that too.
Promotion
Let's figure out how to praise a dog during training. The trainer cannot constantly praise the dog and expect it to play its part after a while. Encouragement must come at the right time. When training, you should not shower your dog with endless “Well done”, “Good girl”, etc.
Praise is definitely needed when a dog is performing well. Since she's really trying to please you, it's important to praise her promptly if she does something right - just as important as immediately expressing your displeasure if she doesn't do something right.
Here it is worth warning against the immediate and violent manifestation of fun after the end of classes. Continue to control the dog for a while, because at the trials, when the judge says “Help is over” and sees your dog happily running away from the area, he will be punished. Leave the ring or training area as if the training is still ongoing, and once you are far enough away from the “working meta”, give the dog the opportunity to play and relax.
Chapter Six
Endurance exercises
Command "Wait". Command “Sit” with endurance
This exercise should be started from simple to complex. You start by keeping the dog on a leash for five to thirty seconds. Your ultimate goal is to teach her to sit off-leash while you walk away from her, stand ten meters away for up to a minute, and return.
Start with the dog on the leash in the "Near" position. Without saying the dog’s name, give the command “Wait” with your voice. When developing endurance skills, the dog's name is not called. This will be an additional indication to the dog that it cannot move from its place. Add the "Wait" command with a gesture.
Wait a second, then, starting with your right foot, walk away from the dog. The fact that you start walking with your right foot means your dog needs to stay put. (With the left - that she should walk next to you). Gradually increase the distance until you are the length of the leash.
Walk away at a normal pace, don't let her think you're up to something. new game. Try to appear confident that it will stay in place.
While still holding the leash, turn to face the dog. Don't look her in the eyes, she may understand this as permission to approach you (because she likes to be close to you).
At any time, if your dog tries to move, be prepared to verbally command “Wait” or “No!” to remind him to stay put. To reinforce the command, raise your hand and give the command “Wait” with a gesture.
If the dog nevertheless moves or lies down, sharply jerk the leash up and again give the command “Sit” and “Wait”.
Then return to the dog. Walk at a normal pace. Go around her to the left and behind and stand in the “Next” position. Handle the leash carefully so that it touches the dog's head. Still don't let her move. Stand calmly next to it, count down from five to ten seconds, say the dog’s name and give the command “Near.” Take two steps forward and stop. At this point the dog should sit down again. The point of these two steps is that you let the dog know that you and no one else decides when to end the technique. They form another invaluable building block that will be needed later.
Vary the number of seconds before the “Near” command, without giving the dog the opportunity to predict them. When you finish the exercise, don't forget to praise your pet.
Gradually increase the amount of time your dog spends in the Sit position. As soon as she begins to withstand a full minute without making mistakes, move on to working without a leash.
Step 2 - transitional
The dog is on a leash in the “Nearby” position. Unfold the collar so that the carabiner rests on the withers, slightly tightening the collar. The leash runs down the dog's back.
Give the command “Wait” with a gesture and voice and take a step with your right foot. Turn around and stop directly in front of the dog. When you're standing so close, she doesn't realize you're not holding the leash. Don't make eye contact with the dog. If the dog starts to move, repeat the “Wait” command with your gesture and voice.
Stay in front of the dog for fifteen to twenty seconds, then walk around and stand next to him. She still shouldn't move. Count down a few seconds, say the dog's name and give the command "Near" and take two steps forward.
Be sure to praise your dog enthusiastically when he does everything right.
If the dog stands up or lies down, correct it immediately: take it by the collar and firmly say “Sit, wait!”
If the dog leaves his seat, immediately put him back in the same place.
Give the command “Wait” with your voice and gesture. Wait a second or two, then, starting with your right foot, walk about two meters away from the dog, pulling the leash along the ground as you go.
Turn to face the dog. The leash should be on the ground between you and the dog.
If she starts to move, immediately react: “No!”
Repeat the “Wait” command. React as soon as you see that your pet even twitches a muscle! When training, it is important that your attention is completely focused on the dog. Always be prepared! Don't wait for your dog to make a mistake; be able to anticipate it. As soon as you feel that the dog was just thinking about a mistake, correct it.
If it starts to move, quickly return it to its place and give the command “Wait”. Don't leave this time. If additional correction is needed, you will be there. Then gradually move further and further away.
When the dog has more endurance and performs the skill more or less consistently, increase the distance from three to five meters. Try also increasing the time to a minute. Any movement of the dog should be observed in order to make timely corrections. If the dog does not move or make mistakes over the course of several sessions, increase the distance to a full ten meters.
When the dog remains in place and at this distance, you can begin the exercise that is performed in the tests.
The dog is in the “Nearby” position. Give the command “Wait” with a gesture and voice. Wait a second or two, then quickly walk ten meters away from the dog.
Turn to face her. You must remain motionless the entire time you are facing her, so stand freely. Don't look her in the eye.
After one minute has passed, do not approach the dog too quickly. Don't look at her as this may make her stand up. Walk around behind her and stand next to her. Count down five to ten seconds, then give the "Near" command. Take two steps forward and stop. Praise your pet happily.
The purpose of the exercise is to instill in the dog the skill of remaining in the “Down” position for three minutes, while the trainer is located at a distance of approximately ten meters. In American Kennel Club obedience trials, a number of dogs are typically tested for this exercise.
However, the new AKC rules will obviously state that only one handler and dog will be allowed on the site.
Therefore, although you will be practicing in a group, you need to practice this skill together with your pet.
The dog should lie straight, not bending to the right or left, or lying on its side. She doesn't come to the test to take a nap, she has to be constantly alert.
The skill is not taught immediately. The distance to which the trainer moves gradually increases to ten meters, and the time - from thirty seconds to three minutes.
Since the dog is familiar with the Sit/Wait drill, it is naturally followed by the Sit/Wait drill.
The dog sits on a leash in the “Nearby” position. Give her the command “Down” using your voice and gesture. Then, also with voice and gesture, the command “Wait”.
Wait a second or two, then, starting with your right foot, walk away from the dog by leash length. Turn to face her. Do not look into her eyes, it is better to look over her head, direct gaze into her eyes can provoke some dogs to move towards you, for others it is a means of intimidation. Either way, he can make them move.
Keep track of the time. During your training, you will gradually increase the time you leave the dog from thirty seconds to three minutes. At the beginning of the class, however, you work for thirty seconds to a minute.
If at any point the dog crawls towards you, or moves, or rolls over, be prepared to correct him with a voice command of “Wait” or a firm “No!” to remind him to remain in the “Down” position. At the same time, give the command “Wait” with a gesture - the hand is raised, the palm is turned outward towards the dog.
The dog sits on a leash in the “Nearby” position. Give the command “Lie down” with a gesture and voice, then unfasten the leash as easily and inconspicuously as possible. The carabiner should hang to the side, putting slight tension on the collar, giving the impression that the leash is still attached.
After the command “Lie down,” the command “Wait” follows, also with a gesture and voice. Starting with your right foot, move back about two meters.
As you walk, stretch the leash along the ground so that when you turn around, it lies between you and the dog. If the dog gets up, return immediately, picking up the leash. Go around her to the left and behind and stand next to her. Grab her by the collar and lay her down again. Using your voice and gesture, firmly give the commands “Lie down” and “Wait.” Say commands in an authoritative voice, making it clear to the dog that you are unhappy with him. As soon as she lies down again, repeat the exercise. If you feel it is necessary, fasten the leash and repeat the technique on the leash.
In this step, remove the leash from the training collar and loop it forward through the collar towards the dog's rump. Then roll it up so that the tension is minimal and take it in your left hand.
Now the dog is sitting in the “Nearby” position. First give the command “Lie down” with your voice and gesture, then, also with your voice and gesture, the command “Wait” and at this time pull out the leash as easily as possible. The dog shouldn't notice this. Taking the leash with you, starting with your right foot, walk two meters away. Hang the leash around your neck and turn to face the dog.
Keep your hands free. Look at the dog, but not in the eyes.
The first couple of times, hold the dog in the “Down” position for no more than fifteen to thirty seconds. Gradually increase the time to a minute. It is important that this exercise ends successfully, so try not to overexert your dog.
If she gets up, quickly go back, go around behind her and stand next to her. Take the collar in your left hand and lay it down.
The dog is in the “Nearby” position without a leash. The folded leash is placed behind the dog, as is done in trials or competitions. Make sure the dog is sitting correctly.
If she falls over on her side, give the command “Nearby”, turn around and sit her down again.
If the dog is sitting the right way, give the command “Lie down” with your voice and gesture; as soon as he lies down, only give the command “Wait” with a gesture.
Walk quickly, starting with your right foot, about five meters away from the dog, then turn to face him. If you want, you can place your hands in front or behind.
Remember not to look your dog in the eyes.
Be prepared to correct your dog with your voice if he starts to move. If she gets up, quickly approach her from the front, grab the collar with your left hand and jerk her up to the "Near" position. In a very firm voice, give the command “Sit”, then after a while repeat the commands “Lie down” and “Wait”. Let her know that you are unhappy with her.
Work in this manner until the dog performs the skill consistently, then gradually increase the distance to ten meters. If your dog rolls over, tries to come to you, or sits down when you walk away, there are some “tricks” that will help you with your work.
"Stand" and "Wait"
You should start teaching this exercise on a leash, however, during obedience tests the technique is performed without a leash.
Walk your dog on a short leash for a few steps, then stop and give the command “Stay.” Hold the leash in your right hand. Turning toward the dog, lightly touch the front side of the right hind leg with your left hand, palm down.
If a dog shows shyness or fear, this is in most cases a socialization problem. A dog that is nervous when examined most likely has not had the opportunity to meet different people or be in different environments.
If you take your dog out for training, immediately take him to the busiest places - where there are the most people.
Don't pay too much attention to her. Do not tighten the collar. And, most importantly, when you start, don’t tell everyone that you are solving socialization problems, otherwise well-wishers will feel sorry for, pet and coo over your pet. This will not solve the problem because the inexperienced dog will become even more afraid.
At first, just stand where people are walking. When the dog gets used to it and calms down, ask someone to approach it, supposedly for an inspection, but do not stop, but pass by.
Then someone should approach the dog and, bending slightly, look down at it - just walking by, talking to himself. Do not tighten the collar. The dog must stand still.
Then someone, passing by, will touch the dog, as if by chance, someone will simply pass by. In any case, this person should not look directly at the dog.
Do not allow you to lean over your dog; he perceives this as a threatening gesture. If someone touches the dog, he should only bend down slightly. Let these people praise your dog.
The idea of socialization is that the person does not force himself on the dog. Everything should happen as if randomly and routinely.
Then, when the dog is ready, have the instructor approach it for inspection. After a while, give her the command “Wait”, and the instructor will look a little more carefully. When the dog understands that there is nothing to be afraid of, gradually work your way up to a full examination.
It is also useful to take your dog for walks in unfamiliar places. When you sense that she is afraid of a situation or sound, encourage her. After a while, you will notice that she is much less afraid, and her performance of the skill should improve.
Walking “Nearby” without a leash
Often trainers assume too early that their pets can roam free. When a dog walks alongside without a leash, it gives a wonderful feeling of success, but if the skill is not yet properly established, the success will not last long.
Keep your dog on a leash until he walks around constantly and without making mistakes. The key word here is constantly.
Take your time and don't move on to the next step until you are absolutely sure that your dog is truly ready to work off-leash, otherwise you will have to spend a lot of time and effort retraining later.
The transition from working on a leash to walking side by side without a leash requires several intermediate steps for which there is no exact timetable. The only criterion here is how well your dog performs intermediate techniques. Some people learn them quickly enough, others at one level or another require more time. Take your time. Enjoy the training process.
If your dog is good at walking alongside on a leash, you have every reason to believe that he will perform this skill just as well without a leash.
I highly recommend teaching your dog intermediate exercises in a confined space, such as a fenced yard or at least a larger room. In addition to everything, at the beginning of training, use homemade fences, which are convenient to make yourself from plungers - suction cups that plumbers use to clean clogged sinks. Below we will describe their use in detail.
An important role when learning to walk “Side by side” without a leash is played by the attitude of the trainer. You must trust that the dog will do whatever you tell it to do. It is extremely necessary to capture the dog's undivided attention and not take your eyes off him.
Don't go too slowly, find a speed at which the dog will willingly walk in the "Next" position.
If you turn your shoulders to the right or left or turn your hips, you will see that your pet will respond to these movements - dogs understand body language just as well as they understand voice commands. If you lower your hip and shoulder, this will be a signal to the dog that a turn is about to follow, and he will lag behind a little, as you taught him. Keep your shoulders and hips straight to avoid "unintentional training" mistakes.
It's amazing how often trainers don't realize that they are giving signals to the dog in one way or another. Don't confuse her - always pay attention to the position of your body, gestures, voice.
If your dog is lagging behind and you think it is not the trainer's fault, attach a heavier carabiner to the collar - its weight alone will remind him that he needs to stay close to his owner.
It is also important how you dress for training. Don't wear clothes that are too loose, which will interfere with you and your dog. You don't want your dog to walk under a super wide skirt or super loose pants, otherwise your dog will be too far away from you for the clothes to touch him. Try to create comfortable conditions for your dog to exercise.
Transitional steps to walking side by side without a leash
Step 1
When walking with the dog in a straight line in the “Next” position, do not hold the leash in the usual way, but throw it over your left shoulder.
At the same time, it should be loose enough so as not to tighten the collar. Hands move naturally. Make several turns left, right and around. Make sure there is no tension on the leash.
If the dog moves to the side, lags behind or runs ahead, correct it with your left hand using the leash, then call the dog's name and give the command “Nearby”. The dog must understand that the leash is in place and you are in control.
At this stage, you need to quietly remove the leash from the dog while moving. To do this, pass the loop of the leash under the collar in the direction from the head to the croup. Hold the carabiner in your left hand, and the loop of the leash between the little finger and ring finger of the same hand. Fold the rest of the leash. It should be loose enough to sag and not tighten the collar. Say the dog's name and give the command “Nearby”.
After a few meters, remove the loop from your little finger and carefully remove the leash from under the collar. The dog shouldn't notice what you're doing. You must let go of the loop, not the carabiner - it will fall and hit the dog. When you remove the leash, hold the carabiner so that it hangs next to your muzzle - the dog will have the impression that he is still on the leash.
After you make a couple of turns to the right, left and around, you will understand whether you are in control of your pet.
Talk to him constantly so that he doesn't get distracted. If your dog starts to lag behind or move forward, correct him in a firm voice. If she obeys, praise her.
Step 3
And last. The beginning is the same as in step 2: you put the leash through the collar, take it in your left hand, after a few steps you quietly remove it, but now don’t hold it in your hand, but put it in your pocket or hang it around your neck. Try not to let the dog notice your manipulations.
When you remove the leash, say the dog’s name and in a firm voice give the command “Near.” You want your dog to pay attention to the command and miss the moment when the leash disappears into your pocket. Don't overdo it. At first, this exercise should not be delayed so as not to lose the dog’s attention. End the lesson when she succeeds, and don’t forget to praise her. Then put him on the leash again. At first, you should teach your pet to walk “Nearby” for a short period of time and in a limited space.
If you don't have confidence that your dog will follow along and you often look down or look around to check if he is walking correctly, he will become unsure and feel like something is about to happen. If you drop your hip and shoulder, she will naturally take this as a signal to turn and begin to lag behind. It is very important to remember that the dog is good at perceiving body language.
If you have a lot of problems walking Side by Side without a leash, go back and start walking on a leash again.
There are trainers who do not want to do this because they believe that returning to what has been done is a waste of time. This is wrong. Repeating what you have learned, you will find errors that are responsible for these problems. Let it be your mistakes or the dog's mistakes - in any case, fasten the leash and carefully practice the leash exercises again.
Fence made of plungers
Plungers or plumbing suction cups are a very convenient aid for the trainer. I advise you to start learning to walk side by side by making a homemade fence out of them.
Take six plungers with long handles, stretch a thin cord between them and place them at a distance of one and a half meters from the wall - the fence is ready.
If you practice outdoors, drive two rows of pegs into the ground, also at a distance of one and a half meters, and stretch a cord between them.
First, walk along this corridor on a leash so that the dog becomes familiar with it, then you can begin training without a leash.
Enter the hallway on a leash, and in the hallway itself practice steps one through three. Work in the hallway until the dog can walk next to you and you gain confidence.
In addition, in the corridor it is convenient to practice such skills as “Sit, wait”, “Lie down, wait” and the command “Come to me”.
Chapter Eight
Call
When calling, you give the command to the dog to come to you. We'll start with the Sit and Wait position. At first, he won't need to change position, but then your dog will learn that even though he was commanded to "Sit, Wait," he needs to come to you.
It is important that the dog approaches you with a willing, cheerful, playful gait. It's embarrassing when she approaches slowly or is distracted by foreign objects or sounds. It all depends on how you train her. Never punish or scold your dog if it approaches you.
Otherwise, she will approach you with caution or even refuse to be near you. When practicing this skill, be generous with praise and encouraging words. Try to get the dog to come to you as quickly and as joyfully as possible.
Skill training
Step 1: Sit position in front of the owner
To begin, start walking with your dog on a leash. Do not give the “Nearby” command. After a few meters, quickly step back and say the dog's name. When she turns to you, take a few more steps back and give the command “Come,” while lightly tugging the leash toward you.
When the dog approaches, give the command “Sit”. If she doesn't come right away, take a couple more steps back. Don't forget to praise her - this is the dog's obedience motivation.
As you can see, at first she does not change the “Sit, Wait” position.
Step 2: Leash Recall
Now that your dog has an idea of what you want him to do, it's time to teach him to come after he's received the "Sit, Wait" command.
Give her the command “Sit, wait” and, holding the leash in your right hand, move away to its length, but make sure that it does not stretch. Before you call the dog's name and give the command “Come,” wait five to ten seconds so that the dog does not anticipate the time and does not get ahead of events.
If necessary, after the command, tug on the leash to get the dog to move. All this time, encourage her with your voice. Remember: you just gave the Wait command, and now you want it to break your command and execute another one. This can be confusing for the dog. If she doesn't respond to the first "Come" command, repeat it and pull the leash again. Constantly encourage her with your voice. In the beginning, do whatever it takes to get her to come to you. If you want, you can take a few more steps back.
It is important that the dog comes straight to you from the very beginning.
He will help the dog sit directly in front of you. As she approaches you, fold your palms in front of you at knee level as if you were holding a large balloon, then slowly lift them towards your chest. Take your time. You want your dog to follow your hand movements. When she watches her hands and raises her head, she will automatically sit up.
The dog should not bury its head in your legs, reach with its paw, or sit too far away. She should be sitting close enough that you can comfortably reach her head with your hand.
If the dog approaches but remains standing, do not punish it under any circumstances. Otherwise, she will lose confidence in her owner and will be afraid to approach for fear of being scolded. If she doesn't sit down or sits down incorrectly, it's much better to praise her for coming because she completed that part of the exercise. Stop for a minute and play with her, then start again. She might get it right this time. When teaching, use encouragement rather than constant correction.
Now, when the dog is sitting in front of you, you should give the command “Wait” with a gesture and voice, go around him and stand so that he is in the “Near” position. Wait a couple of seconds, say the dog’s name and give the command “Nearby”.
Starting with your left foot, walk forward two steps and stop.
Now you are ready to work without a leash. The dog sits in the “Nearby” position. Unfasten the leash, insert the loop under the collar towards the croup, take the carabiner in your left hand, and fold the rest of the leash, but so that it does not stretch.
With a gesture and voice, give the command “Wait” and, unwinding the leash, go out to its length, continuing to hold the carabiner in your hand, then turn to face the dog. The leash loop is still under the collar. Count down a few seconds, say the dog's name and give the command “Come to me.” Taking a few steps back, pull the loop out from under the collar. A dog without a leash moves towards you. Smile. Clap your hands. Praise and support your dog - this will make him rush to you. You can repeat the exercise with "
The dog is sitting in the "Near" position, the leash is unfastened, but you hold it in your left hand near its neck. Give the command “Wait” with a gesture and voice and walk forward at a normal pace, unwinding the leash along the way so that it lies between you and the dog. This will give her the impression that she is still on a leash. Move a distance of five meters and turn to face her, keeping your hands free.
Say the dog's name and give the command “Come to me.” Your pet should run up and sit in front of you. If the dog does not come straight to you, but is distracted to the sides, make a corridor of two homemade barriers from plungers. Work in the hallway so it fits in a straight line. If she is in no hurry to follow the command or approaches slowly, clap your hands and encourage her. At the very beginning, if necessary, kneel down and spread your arms wide - the dog will know that you are looking forward to it. Don't frown or criticize her.
Your job is to make the dog want to come to you.
If a dog approaches you without a command or, anticipating a command, moves away after you call its name, do not punish it. Stop your classes. Play with it a little and do other exercises. Then repeat the call again.
Once your pet has mastered this technique and is coming consistently every time, it’s time for him to circle around you and get into the “Near” position. Say his name and give the command “Nearby”. From time to time, stand next to him so that he does not predict the command and does not carry it out on his own.
If the dog performs the exercise well, move another three meters away. If in this case she does everything without errors, gradually increase the distance to ten meters.
Train her until she comes at one command.
As soon as the dog performs the skill ten meters without a leash, start changing the distance. Decrease or increase it to keep your dog alert at all times.
The exercise is designed to disinhibit lethargic, slow dogs. Your pet is sitting in the "Nearby" position.
Give him the command “Wait” and, starting with your right foot, walk back to the full length of the leash. Say the dog’s name, and when you give the command “Come to me,” turn around, holding the leash in your left hand, and run away to a distance of two meters. Along the way, look back and encourage your dog. When she starts running after you, stop, turn to face her and make her sit in front of you. If she runs past, quickly take a few steps back so that she finally sits down in front of you.
If necessary, use the balloon exercise.
Repeat this technique several times in a row so that your dog perks up a little and gets excited about the activity.
Leashless inspection stand
Your little dog already knows the leash inspection post. Now that she is walking nearby without a leash, let’s slightly complicate the exercise and perform it also without a leash, as provided for in the competition rules.
Walk the dog in the “Near” position for several steps, then stop with the command “Stay.” At the same time, turn to face him, bend down and with the edge of your left palm, facing down, lightly hit the front side of the dog's right hind leg, barely touching his stomach. Step back and wait a few seconds. If she moves or tries to sit, correct her with the command “No!”
Give the command “Wait” with your voice and gesture. At first, move away from the dog only a short distance, gradually increasing it to two meters. Turn to face the dog. At this time, an assistant should approach her and perform an inspection. Let him first let the dog sniff his hand, then he should touch his head, back and rump. The dog should stand still, showing neither timidity nor fear. Once the assistant has completed the inspection and has moved away, count a few seconds, come back, circle around her and stand so that she is in the "Nearby" position. Hold her in this position for a couple of seconds, then say her name, give the command “Nearby,” walk a couple of steps and stop.
If any problems arise, fasten the leash and try to correct them.
It is a simple turn of the palm. First, turn your palm with closed fingers back, then in a circular, “raking” motion, turn it forward and lower your hand. When given a command with the right hand, the dog must go around the trainer; when given a command with the left, the dog must simply sit next to him.
During the training process, do not forget to give the command next, walk a few steps and stop.
Then work without a leash. The dog walks nearby, you take a few steps back, call the dog’s name and give the command “Come to me.” When the dog sits in front of you, wait a little, and then give the command “Near” with a gesture and voice.
As soon as the dog begins to understand the gesture, the voice command need not be used. If the dog is attentive and obedient, teaching this command is rarely a problem.
