What should not be included in a face cream? Harmful and dangerous components in creams. The best cosmetics for the face - how we choose

Cream is an integral part daily care any woman. Nowadays there is such a huge number of creams on the cosmetic market that it can be quite difficult to understand their diversity.

Not all remedies are equally effective, and some of them can even bring relief. And of course, to understand how the cream will work, first of all, you need to pay attention to its composition.

The components of any facial product can be classified into several large groups.

We would like to remind you that All ingredients are listed on the label in descending order.. That is, if mineral oil is in the first or second place in the composition of your jar, then it makes up the majority of the cream.

The components written at the very end have minimal concentration and have almost no effect. That's why choose a cream whose active ingredients will be located in the middle or beginning of the composition.

The basis of any cream is water. The quality of the water is usually not specified.

But remember that good or luxury products are most often made on water from thermal springs, while products from budget brands are made at regular filtered water.

2nd place is usually occupied by moisturizing or nourishing components. This could be glycerin, which acts only on the surface of the epidermis, or silicones, which penetrate deeper into the pores. It is also possible to have mineral oil, the purpose of which is intensive nutrition. But more suitable option will be various natural oils, not petroleum products.

Quite often alcohol is added to the cream, since it is a good and at the same time cheap solvent. But there are safer solvent options.

Of course, each product contains emulsifiers and texture formers that contribute quick application cream and its easy penetration into the skin.

And of course, perhaps the most important thing in any tool is its active ingredients. They can be used hyaluronic acid, extracts of various plants, vitamins, natural oils, and much more.

Note: These substances should not be at the end of the composition to bring maximum benefit to your skin.

The difference between creams in composition depending on their purpose

Creams come in many varieties different groups : day, night, moisturizing, nourishing, anti-aging and others.

How does their composition differ?

1. Day and night cream in terms of the content of certain components they almost do not differ from each other. But the texture of a night cream is usually lighter and does not contain silicones, which give the skin an instant glow and well-groomed appearance. Substances that are incompatible with ultraviolet rays are added to the night cream.
2. Anti-aging product has more differences. It usually contains vitamins C and A, coenzyme Q10, and peptides. These substances smooth out small and even large wrinkles, restore elasticity to the skin and tighten the oval of the face.
3. Moisturizing and nourishing cream are also different from each other. A moisturizer contains ingredients that provide moisture to the skin as well as moisture-retaining ingredients. The most popular of them is hyaluronic acid. The consistency of the nourishing cream is thicker and is less absorbed. Its main part is vegetable and animal fats. In its composition you can often find fat-soluble vitamins and. Cosmetologists usually recommend using a moisturizing cream in summer and a nourishing cream in winter.
4. Remedy for problem skin , first of all, should contain antimicrobial, exfoliating components. These include salicylic and azelaic acid, copper and zinc, clay, sulfur, AHA acids, retinoids, triclosan. It is better to use such a product as prescribed by a doctor, so as not to harm yourself.
5. Massage cream for the face is made on the basis natural oils, which, when massaged, penetrate into the deep layers of the dermis and act from the inside. In such a product you can often find extracts of various plants, ceramides and peptides, amino acids.
6. They went on sale a few years ago BB and CC creams. Their composition is no different from regular moisturizers, but they also contain tinting ingredients that create an even complexion and disguise imperfections.

What should be the composition of a face cream?

First of all, we would like to say that choosing a cream is a very individual matter, and what is ideal for one person will cause allergies in another. But they still exist general recommendations by selection.

Attention : see if your cream contains mineral oil. It is a petroleum product and can clog pores, cause inflammation and provoke the formation of comedones. Mineral oil can only be used by girls with very dry skin and narrow pores. For those with oily and combination skin types, it is better to avoid this component.

A good face cream should not contain alcohol.. It causes allergies and irritation in sensitive skin and also dries it out.

Should be avoided aluminum acetate. It is used as an astringent, but with prolonged use it can cause flaking, tightness and dryness.

Ingredients breakdown

In the table below we provide a breakdown of the components in face creams. When purchasing, you can use this list to avoid dangerous or unnecessary ingredients.

Useful video

Check out an expert's opinion on the ingredients in modern face creams.

Carefully read the composition of the cream before purchasing it. to make sure it meets all your requirements. Try to avoid aggressive and comedogenic components, and also be sure to pay attention to the ratio of nutrients. Do not forget, . And then your skin is still long years will make you happy!

How to choose a face cream? You should always start by carefully reading the composition. You should not rely on a “promoted” brand or a recognizable label. There are many similar brands on the market (some of them are high-quality, others are inexpensive fakes); it is very difficult to find differences in the design and name of such jars, so you need to read the label and not evaluate its design. What is necessary and what is completely useless on this list?

Composition of a cosmetic product

At its core, a cream is a carefully mixed homogeneous mass of a base, beneficial substances for the skin (active components) and auxiliary ingredients (technical details).

Base

Reputable manufacturers use natural ingredients as a base. vegetable oils and their mixtures, low-quality products are dominated by technical (mineral) oils obtained during the processing and use of petroleum products. The cream base is also a universal solvent for all other ingredients. It is better if the product is based on sesame or olive oil. Of no small importance is the uniformity of mass and particle size in the emulsion (this is what the consistency of a cream is called in chemistry). The more thoroughly the ingredients are crushed, the Great chance that they will penetrate into the deep subcutaneous layers.

Important ingredients in terms of technical filling

The skin is a barrier to the external environment; it reliably protects against exposure various factors(both unfavorable and beneficial substances of masks, creams). Therefore, the primary task for manufacturers is to find a way to pass this barrier, how to direct all the necessary substances into the deep subcutaneous layers so that they realize their function there. Cosmetologists come to the aid of synthetic substances that facilitate the process - technical elements. They increase the effectiveness of the cream and promote the penetration of these active components into the skin tissue.

Only 10-30 percent of the beneficial substances from products applied to the skin can reach its deep layers and improve the condition of the face. If you deprive the cream of synthetic impurities, then 1-5% of the active components will reach the goal.

Choose good cream for the face without such ingredients is not possible. Absolutely all cosmetic products contain:

• emulsifiers and stabilizers (responsible for maintaining the consistency of the product and preventing separation of the mass);
• preservatives (prevent natural ingredients from spoiling);
• thickeners (used to give the product a creamy structure, since natural vegetable oils are quite liquid);
• fragrances (designed to deodorize cosmetic product and improve its aesthetic properties);
• dyes, etc.

Almost all of the listed components are produced synthetically, are not at all beneficial for the skin, but are indispensable in creams. The harmful effects of such substances have not been proven, but it is better to have as few of them as possible.

Active components

The content of substances of this group in the product determines the cosmetic effect of its use. The best cream (in terms of composition) should contain at least 4-5 names of natural extracts, extracts, oils, esters or other non-synthetically produced components. Moreover, it is absolutely not necessary to choose products that contain overseas plants (ginkgo biloba, jojoba, passion fruit, etc.). Plants of the usual climate have a similar effect: sea buckthorn, dill, cucumber, chamomile, calendula, etc.

Vitamins and microelements are added as active components, if they are included in the composition - this is another plus in favor of the product. The following substances may be present in specialized facial skin care creams:

• ceramides (naturally occurring fats that help retain moisture);
• antioxidants (relieve cells of free radicals);
• azelaic acid (provides a whitening effect).

Pseudoactive components

The cream may contain, at first glance, quite useful substances - coenzyme Q10, vitamin C, and the like. When they are present in the epidermis, a wrinkle smoothing effect and an antioxidant effect are actually observed. However, there is one big but: such ingredients are not absorbed into the skin:

• Vitamin C decomposes in air even before application to the face;
• Coenzyme Q10, hyaluronic acid and collagen have molecules that are too large to cross the skin barrier, etc.

How to find the golden mean?

Which face cream to choose so that it is truly beneficial for the skin, is highly effective and is not full of chemical impurities? The secret lies in the composition of the product. The closer to the beginning of the list a component is, the greater its share in the emulsion. Universal rules for choosing face cream:

1. Natural ingredients should be in the first half of the list.
2. The composition should contain 3-5 components of natural origin.
3. The number of chemical names in the list should be minimal.
4. The cream should fit.
5. Do not buy a cream that does not have ingredients on the label.

remember, that professional cream acts quickly, thanks to the high content of chemical components that enhance its effect. To do this, you need to choose the right manufacturer and type of cream that suits your skin. Action natural remedy appears only a month or two after the start of regular use. Do not judge the cream after the first application (except for the feeling of obvious discomfort, an allergic reaction or rash) - the ingredients must work from the inside. The products have virtually no effect on already formed skin cells, and it takes time for the skin to renew itself.

Types of creams by type of action

To choose the right face cream, you must first decide on the problem that is bothering you. It’s good if the skin is young and clearly has one or two problems (oily, for example). The situation is much more complicated with mature skin, on which signs of aging (the first wrinkles), dryness, lack of elasticity and firmness of the face are already appearing. To solve a complex of problems, you may need to purchase several tools.

Types of creams

There are several main types of creams based on their action:

1. Moisturizing - delivers moisture to the skin and retains it. On the surface of the face they form a thin film that binds water and directs it to the place of deficiency.
2. Nutritious - they contain a large number of plant extracts, herbal extracts and the like. By increasing the proportion of nourishing ingredients, facial skin receives more vitamins and minerals. As a rule, nourishing products have an oily texture and are used as a night cream for the face.
3. Fortified - products are rich in vitamins of natural origin and synthetic production. In essence, this is the same nourishing cream, but with a lighter texture (less fat in the composition). From this series it is easy to choose a cream for oily skin face and for very young skin.
4. Protective – means protect from wind, cold, sun and the like. When used, a mechanical barrier is created on the skin, minimizing the adverse effects of the environment. They may contain wax, petroleum jelly, silicone and the like.
5. Cleansing (exfoliating) creams remove chemically or mechanically the stratum corneum, enhance the penetration of creams for other purposes, promote cell renewal, and improve appearance skin.
6. Regenerating – contain ingredients that promote skin cell regeneration. To replenish the skin's need for nutrients, they contain plant extracts and vitamins. To prevent aging and fading of the face, the composition includes substances that trigger the production of collagen and elastin inside the cells.
7. Anti-aging creams are used if the process of skin aging has already started and its harmful effects, as they say, are “obvious”.

Challenger decided to figure out what components are included in the face cream and how they affect the skin. We will figure it out with the help of a professional dermatologist, of course.

Irina Kotova

What does face cream consist of?

The ingredients typically found in face cream (non-organic) can be divided into several main groups. Firstly, these are biologically active substances, they influence skin cells in a certain way depending on the purpose of the cream - anti-aging, moisturizing, restoration. The second important group is emulsifiers; they stabilize the cream base, the emulsion, which is water mixed with oil. Emulsion is used most often, as it allows biologically active components to be more easily absorbed into the skin tissue. But there is very important point: oil must be natural (almond or olive). Alas, mineral oil, which is a liquid extract from petroleum products, is most often added to cosmetic products. Preservatives also play an important role, because thanks to their antibacterial and antifungal effect, in most cases they prevent the risk of microbial growth in the cream and prolong its shelf life. And finally, nice smell Fragrances are added to the cream, but since they are most often the catalysts for allergic reactions, people with sensitive skin should choose fragrance-free creams.

The cream may contain potentially carcinogenic substances, since most of them are stabilizers and UV filters. Their concentration is strictly regulated and in any case should always remain minimal. But chemicals such as dioxane and phthalates are poisonous and dangerous to humans and should be avoided even in small quantities.

It is based on these facts that you should pay attention to the composition of the cream. Thus, the first components of the composition determine its properties and actual purpose.

• Moisturizing cream: glycerin, water, hyaluronic acid, collagen, elastin, urea, lactic acid.
• Anti-aging cream: retinol, vitamins A, E, C, coenzyme Q10, alpha lipic acid, peptides, DMAE (dimethylaminoethanol).
• Regenerating cream: ceramides, lilac and lanolinic acids, phosphatidylcholine (lecithin), centella asiatica extract, horse chestnut extract, panthenol, aloe vera extract.
• Cream for problem skin: salicylic acid, azelaic acid, AHA acids (alpha hydroxide), triclosan, retinoids, copper, zinc, sulfur, talc, clay, niacinamide.

Interestingly, the compositions of day and night creams are not very different from each other. The main difference is the texture: the night one is lighter. Water-protective filters are added to the cream for daytime use, and on the contrary, for nighttime use, ingredients that cannot be used in combination with ultraviolet radiation: AHA acids (phytic and kojic), arbutin, glabridin and retinoids in high concentrations.

How each component of the cream affects the skin

Cetyl, Stearyl, Cetearyl Alcohol(cetyl, stearyl, cetearyl alcohols) and Propylene glycol(propylene glycol): transport substances that promote deeper penetration of active substances deep into tissues. Only alcohol dries the skin, and propylene glycol, on the contrary, softens and moisturizes.

Triclosan(triclosan): an antibacterial substance that is used as an anti-inflammatory component.

Triethanolamine (TEA)(triethanolamine): surfactant, stabilizer necessary for the cream to look like a coherent structure and not separate into water and oil.

Butylated Hydroxyanisole (BHA)(butylhydroxyanisole) and Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT)(butylated hydroxytoluene): chemical antioxidants that are used as preservatives.

Phthalates (DBP, DEP)(phthalates): stabilizers that give the cream special softness. Substances that are toxic to humans can cause the development of cancer.

Preservatives(preservatives) and Parabens(parabens): substances that prevent the proliferation of microorganisms (bacteria) in the cream, preventing the development of skin diseases.

Fragrance(flavors): fragrances, aromatic substances that give the cream a certain smell. As a rule, the natural components of the cream do not smell very pleasant.

Glycerin(glycerin): a moisturizing component that has earned its popularity for its ability to supply water from the lower layers of the skin to the surface. Glycerin also helps maintain and preserve the top protective layer of skin cells.

Mineral oil(mineral oil): oil protects the skin from moisture loss. The film created on its surface slows down the evaporation of water, making the skin look more hydrated and smooth.

Urea(urea): natural component, which is added to moisturizer.

Hyaluronic Acid(hyaluronic acid): a natural substance that is part of epithelial and connective tissues, improves the structure of the epidermis, moisturizes and softens the skin.

Collagen(collagen): the most important protein of the connective tissues of the body. The cream has smoothing and moisturizing effects.

Ceramide(ceramides): fatty acids that are capable of repairing damage in the intercellular structure caused by skin diseases and external influences.

Lecithin(lecithin): a nutrient that makes the skin soft and helps biologically active components penetrate deep into the epidermis.

Retinol(retinol): fat-soluble vitamin A, helps combat age-related skin changes. When added in high concentrations to anti-aging creams, retinol can cause redness and irritation.

Coenzyme Q10(Coenzyme Q10): An antioxidant that stimulates collagen synthesis and protects skin cells from premature aging.

Elastin(elastin): a protein - a relative of collagen, responsible for the firmness and elasticity of skin tissue.

Nicotinamide(niacinamide): vitamin B3, which fights acne marks and evens out skin tone, making it brighter.

Dimethylaminoethanol (DMAE)(dimethylaminoethanol): a chemical compound that is added to almost any anti-aging cream. Its effects have not yet been fully studied, but there are reports that indicate that the use of dimethylaminoethanol leads to the death of skin cells.

Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA)(beta-hydroxy acids): a class of acids that includes salicylic acid. This acid penetrates deep into tissues and dissolves dead cells. Salicylic acid has a gentle effect on the skin and has an anti-inflammatory effect.

Did you believe the bright advertising of an anti-aging cream that promised instant smoothing of the skin from wrinkles, but did not receive the promised effect? In order to purchase truly high quality cosmetic product, which can slow down the aging process and restore skin from age-related changes, you should know which active substances must be included in its composition. In this article, we will provide you with useful and important information on this topic that is relevant to every woman.

What information will you find out:

What are anti-aging products used for?

Those who claim that such compositions should be used only after the appearance of wrinkles and signs of aging of the epidermis are fundamentally wrong! In fact, the sooner you start using these products, the longer your skin will stay firm, fresh and youthful! Another thing is that choosing a truly high-quality product is not within the power of every buyer, especially those who are not experienced in this matter.

A good cream can have a comprehensive effect on the skin, providing:

• its active hydration;
• good nutrition;
• cell restoration;
• regeneration of the skin layer;
• increasing the firmness and elasticity of the epidermis;
• powerful protection against free radicals and UV rays;
• increased turgor density;
• renewal of skin color;
• tightening the oval and contours of the face;
• smoothing wrinkles and folds.

A high-quality cream against wrinkles and age-related changes does not have to be very expensive! The most important thing is that it contains 3–4 components from the list of substances that will be listed below.

High-quality anti-wrinkle creams must contain hyaluronic acid.

Valuable substances in anti-aging products

A high-quality cream that stops the aging process and restores age-related changes should contain the following components:

• hyaluronic acid, which is part of the epidermis, the production of which significantly decreases with age, helping to saturate cells with moisture, increasing the elasticity and firmness of the skin;
• collagen (preferably of marine rather than animal origin) is a complete skin protein that serves as a cellular scaffold that keeps the skin taut;
• coenzyme Q10, which ensures the exchange of energy between skin cells, eliminates dryness, and also activates the synthesis of its own collagen, rejuvenating the entire skin surface;
• kinetin is a powerful antioxidant that destroys free radicals and helps smooth out the epidermis from wrinkles;
• copper peptide, which neutralizes the aggressive effects of free radicals and stimulates the natural production of the amount of collagen fibers necessary for skin restoration;
• polyphenols contained in green tea and natural red wine, which have powerful antioxidant properties that slow down the aging process of cells. In addition, they relieve inflammation, smooth out wrinkles and have an antimicrobial effect;
• vitamin of youth and beauty E (tocopherol) is the most popular antioxidant that resists oxidation and protects cells from harmful influences ultraviolet rays;
• Vitamin C is another excellent antioxidant that accelerates the synthesis of collagen structures, whitens and relieves inflammation of the skin surface;
• retinoids - various shapes vitamin A (retinol, retinyl, palmitate, tretinoin) have pronounced regenerating effects, improving the condition of the skin structure, activating blood circulation, accelerating the healing of the epidermis, eliminating age-related changes by restoring damaged collagen bonds and enhanced cell renewal;
• isoflavones, which are a natural plant analogue of the female sex hormone estrogen, have a rejuvenating effect on the skin structure, reducing the severity of wrinkles and age spots;
• glycoceramides - substances that restore damaged areas of cell membranes, providing the skin surface with smoothness, silkiness and perfectly even texture;
• DMAE is a naturally occurring substance found in fish species such as anchovies and sardines. It makes the skin firm, elastic, tones and actively smoothes out existing wrinkles;
• sun filters, the action of which is aimed at protecting the epidermis from the destructive effects of ultraviolet rays, which are considered the main cause of skin aging. Without them, even the best cream will be ineffective, since it will allow aggressive UV rays to penetrate into the dermis, triggering the mechanism of cell aging;
• Alpha-lipolic acid (ALA) is an acid that neutralizes free radicals that are formed and can significantly enhance the effect of other antioxidants included in the composition.

Knowing and taking into account the above information, you will truly choose effective cream against age-related changes, which will make your facial skin young and radiant!

Video: Making your own anti-wrinkle cream