How they dressed in winter in Rus'. Ancient Rus': clothes and hats. What women wore in Ancient Rus'

Prince I. Repnin. Single-row (light) and ferryaz (with fasteners, and lined with ermine), and inside, apparently, there is a background.

Kaftan, awesomeness, zipun, casing, retinue, homespun, terlik... What is all this anyway? I'm trying to figure it out first approximation)
In general, outer and middle clothing, on modern look, was sewn almost identically. These types of dresses differed in the way they were worn (inside, tied up, in a cape), area of ​​application, material - fabric, fastener - trim and partial cut. Judging by the conflicting information in different sources, this matter is unclear. I tried to collect information and illustrations that do not contain these contradictions.
Main actor investigations - Kaftan.

A man in a yellow caftan has tafya on his head.
Kaftan(خفتان ‎) - men's, mostly peasant, dress. Also called kavtan, koftan (makes some thoughts, yes...).
What all caftans had in common was: double-breasted cut, long skirts and sleeves, and a chest closed to the top. His chest was decorated with buttons - from eight to twelve pieces. On the sides of the caftan there were slits, or “gaps,” which were also finished with buttons. The sleeve could reach the wrist. The lower part of the caftan was cut from oblique wedges.
Trumpet collars and wrist collars, decorated with multi-colored silks, stones, and pearls, were fastened or sewn onto elegant caftans. Instead of buttons, gags were often used - often silver with gilding, and sometimes crutches made of coral turned into sticks. Gags and crutches were fastened with long loops made of braid or colored cords; they were called “conversations”, and they could be decorated with tassels of multi-colored threads. The back of the caftan was often made somewhat shorter than the front, especially for long clothes, so that the backs of the ornamented boots were visible, which was a subject of special concern for young people.
An important detail in caftans of pre-Petrine times was the trump card - a high stand-up collar covering the entire back of the head. This name applied to the collar in general, which in ancient Russian clothes was often removable and was fastened or sewn to various garments. Trumps were an object of ostentation, and they were made of velvet, silk, damask, decorated with embroidery with gold and silver thread, pearls and precious stones.
http://licey102.k26.ru/costume/kaftan.htm
Kaftans in Rus' were mostly gray or of blue color, were sewn from coarse cotton fabric or handicraft linen fabric (canvas). The caftan was usually belted with a sash (usually of a different color).
http://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/%CA%E0%F4%F2%E0%ED
Feryaz- a type of Kaftan. The F. was sewn not wide, without a collar or interception at the waist, length to the ankles, with or without narrow sleeves. It was fastened with buttons with overhead loops or tied with ties.The fur coat reached to the calves, and sometimes to the ground, and was usually trimmed with fur or had a fur collar. Such clothes were quite wide and fastened with one top button. Feryaz were made from dark blue, dark green and brown cloth, sometimes gold brocade and satin were used.http://ria.ru/Tsarist_Russia/20130314/926340592.html
Winter F. with fur were worn over a caftan or summer coat. F. was the clothing of various segments of the population. In the 14th-16th centuries. in Moscow, royal, boyar and princely f. were sewn from velvet, satin, cloth, etc., decorated with gold and silver lace, and buttons made of precious metals.http://dic.academic.ru/dic.nsf/bse/144460/%D0%A4%D0%B5%D1%80%D1%8F%D0%B7%D1%8C
Ivan the Terrible's fairy tale is famous: They say he wore it at home. But the camp caftans, that is, according to the figure (body). http://blog.t-stile.info/stanovoj-kaftan
Obyar, Aksamit, cloth. 1680

Meanwhile in France...

Karl 8, multi-layered clothes - thin inside, the further you go, the richer and more elegant, the top is lined with fur. Gold embroidery and all that. He has a bare neck, which won’t work in our climate), and the same goes for his beard.
A.I. Olenin: “We see that in the 15th century, the French king Charles VIII used the same fur coat with folding sleeves that Grand Duke Ivan Vasilyevich III wore at the same time.”
http://folk-costume.com/oxaben/
And approximately the same time (The costume in the film is close to history, don’t worry . According to Natalya Selezneva, a costume designer who worked with Sergei Eisenstein on his film “Ivan the Terrible” helped create the royal vestments for the film “Ivan Vasilyevich Changes His Profession.”) For those who don’t believe, here’s another one
Of course, in Rus' the tsar was the most elegant. But boyars, ambassadors, etc. are also not cut out for business.

Opasheni- a long-skimmed caftan made of cloth, silk, etc., with long wide sleeves, frequent buttons down to the bottom and a fastening fur collar.

Ambassadors

Just like the okhaben, the opashen had folding long wide sleeves. The sleeves tapered towards the wrist. The arms were threaded through special slits, and the sleeves hung along the figure. There was no collar. The guard was never belted. http://folk-costume.com/oxaben/

Female fear- with frequent buttons, decorated at the edges with silk or gold embroidery. Buttons are gold or silver; could be the size of a walnut. A fur-lined hood was sewn at the back and hung to the middle of the back. Women with opashny wore a round false necklace made of sable or beaver fur.

Both the cut and the names of elegant clothes were often borrowed, Persian, Arabic, Tatar words, Polish, etc. were found in the names, there was a direct influence of Byzantium, and elegant rich fabrics were imported (including from China). The fabrics were very diverse, the picture beautifully shows velvet and satin, even patterned fabrics were decorated with various details, and many types of clothing were lined with fur, fortunately it was so easy to do...
"We are no strangers,"
Let your frost crack:
Our Russian blood
It burns in the cold!

This is how it has always been
Orthodox people:
In the summer, look, it’s hot -
He wears a sheepskin coat;

The burning cold smelled, -
It's all the same for him:
Knee-deep in snow,
He says: “Nothing!”

I.S. Nikitin

Apparently, this is where part of the confusion comes from, when “soul warmer” was summer clothing, and summer clothing was sometimes supposed to be lined with fur...

Important addition!

01.11.2014

Slavic folk costume is not only our national treasure, but also a source of inspiration for modern clothing design and for creating stage images in various genres and types of art, and is a vivid embodiment of folk art.

Entire items of clothing from the 9th-13th centuries. has not survived to this day, and the main source is the found remains of clothing and jewelry. In addition to archaeological data on the clothing of the Eastern Slavs of this period, several visual sources provide the most complete picture.

We will look at the main details of the clothing of the ancient Slavs, and a number of protective ornaments decorating these clothes. Of course, much of what is said below is controversial and requires much more detailed study, but...

So, “One meets people by their clothes...”.

By looking at a person, one could say exactly: what clan or tribe he belongs to, what area he lives in, what position in society he has, what he does, what age he is, and even in what country he lives. And looking at a woman, one could understand whether she was married or not.

Such a " business card“allowed me to immediately decide how to behave with a stranger and what to expect from him.

Today, in our everyday life, “talking” details of clothing and even entire types of costumes that can only be worn by a member of a certain gender, age or social group have been preserved.

Now, when we say “clothes,” it sounds like colloquialism, almost like jargon. Nevertheless, scientists write that in Ancient Rus' it was “clothing” that was used much more often and wider than the familiar term “clothing” that existed at the same time.

What did the wardrobe of the ancient Russians consist of?

First of all, clothing was strictly divided into casual and festive. It differed in both the quality of the material and the color scheme.

In addition to the simplest and coarsest fabrics, there were many fine fabrics, both local and imported. Of course, the quality of clothing depended on the wealth of its owner - not everyone could afford expensive imported silk fabrics. But wool and flax were available to all segments of the population.

Fabric was dyed natural dyes- leaves, roots, flowers of plants. So the oak bark gave Brown color, madder roots are red, nettles are gray when dyed hot, and green when dyed cold, onion peel- yellow.

Since the times of Ancient Rus', “red” has been beautiful, cheerful, and therefore festive and elegant. In Russian folklore we come across the expressions: “spring is red, the girl is red, beauty is red (about the beauty of a girl).” The red color was associated with the color of dawn, fire, all this was associated with life, growth, the sun-world.

White. Associated with the idea of ​​Light, purity and sacredness (White Light, White Tsar - a king above kings, etc.); at the same time - the color of Death, mourning.

Green - Vegetation, Life.

Black - Earth.

Golden - Sun.

Blue - Sky, Water.

Gold embroidery has long been known. The ancient people of Kiev wore clothes with a lot of gold embroidery. The oldest known Russian gold embroidery was found by archaeologists in the burial mound of Prince Cherny (near Chernigov), and dates back to the tenth century.

Interesting fact:

The Slavs have a widely known belief that a person’s first clothes influence his subsequent life. Therefore, a newborn was often received in a shirt sewn by himself. old woman in the family so that he would inherit her destiny and live long; into the father’s old unwashed shirt, “so that he would love him,” and for diapers they used parts of adults’ clothing so that the child would certainly inherit their positive qualities

The ancient name for clothing among the Slavs was “portishche” - a cut (piece of fabric); hence the word “tailor” - a person who sews clothes. This name lasted in Rus' until the fifteenth century

Shirt - the oldest, most beloved and widespread type of underwear among the ancient Slavs. Linguists write that its name comes from the root “rub” - “piece, cut, scrap of fabric” - and is related to the word “chop,” which once also had the meaning “to cut.”

Another name for a shirt in Russian was “shirt”, “sorochitsa”, “srachitsa”. It is a very old word, related to the Old Icelandic "serk" and the Anglo-Saxon "sjork" through common Indo-European roots.

Long shirts were worn by noble and elderly people, shorter ones by other classes, since, unlike the measured and leisurely life of princes and boyars, the everyday life of the working people was filled with hard work and clothing should not hinder movements. Women's shirts reached to the heels.

Men wore a shirt for graduation and always with a belt. Hence the expression “unbelted” - if a person did not put on a belt, then they said that he loosened his belt. Festive shirts of the nobility were made from expensive thin linens or silks bright colors and decorated with embroidery. Despite the conventionality of the pattern of the ornament, many of its elements were of a symbolic nature; they seemed to protect a person from other evil eyes and misfortunes.

The decorations were “hanging” - removable: richly embroidered with gold, precious stones and pearls. Usually, ornaments of protective motifs were embroidered on shirts: horses, birds, the Tree of Life, plants and floral ornaments in general, lankas (emphasis on “and”) - anthropomorphic characters, images of Gods... It should be noted that sometimes the embroidered parts were altered from an old shirt to a new one.

Gate did not have Slavic shirts turn-down collars. Most often, the incision at the collar was made straight - in the middle of the chest, but there were also oblique ones, on the right or left.

Embroidery, which contained all kinds of sacred images and magical symbols, served as a talisman here. The pagan meaning of folk embroidery can be traced very well from the most ancient samples to quite modern works It is not without reason that scientists consider embroidery an important source in the study of ancient religion.

Sundress among the Slavs it was sewn on narrow straps and resembled a semicircle, due to the large number of wedges that greatly widened the hem.

We don’t wear sundresses

The loss to us from them:

We need eight meters of chintz,

Three spools of thread...

The Northern Slavs traditionally preferred the color red. The central part of Rus' mostly wore one-color blue, paper, purchased fabric for their sundresses or pestryad (fabric similar to matting). The lower part of the front seam and the hem were decorated with stripes of silk ribbons and stripes of patterned fabric.

The first mention of a sundress, or sarfan, dates back to 1376 in the Nikon Chronicle. This word originally meant an item of men's clothing. Mention of men's sundresses is found in ancient songs:

He is not in a fur coat, not in a caftan,

In a long white sundress...

Before Peter the Great’s decrees on the mandatory wearing of European clothing in cities, sundresses were worn by noblewomen, boyars, city women, and peasant women.

In the cool season, a soul warmer was worn over the sundress. It, just like the sundress, widened downward and was embroidered with amulets along the bottom and armhole. The soul warmer was worn on a shirt with a skirt or over a sundress. The material for the soul warmer was thicker, but for the festive one they sewed velvet, brocade, and all this was embroidered with beads, glass beads, braid, sequins, and ribbon.

Sleeves shirts could reach such a length that they gathered in beautiful folds along the arm and were grabbed with braid at the wrist. Note that among the Scandinavians, who wore shirts of a similar style in those days, tying these ribbons was considered a sign of tender attention, almost a declaration of love between a woman and a man...

In women's festive shirts, the ribbons on the sleeves were replaced with folded (fastened) bracelets - “hoops”, “hoops”. There were many sleeves of similar shirts longer than an arm, in their loose form they reached the ground. Everyone remembers fairy tales about bird girls: the hero happens to steal their wonderful outfits. And also the fairy tale about the Frog Princess: waving the lowered sleeve plays an important role in it. Indeed, the fairy tale is a lie, but there is a hint in it. IN in this case- an allusion to ritual women's clothing of pagan times, to clothing for sacred rites and witchcraft.

Belt in Slavic outfits it was present in both women and men.

Slavic women wore woven and knitted belts. The belt was long, with embroidery and fringe at the ends, and was tied under the chest over the sundress.

But belts have been one of the most important symbols of male prestige since ancient times - women never wore them. Let us not forget that almost every free adult man was potentially a warrior, and the belt was considered perhaps the main sign of military dignity.

The belt was also called “girdling” or “lower back”.

Belts made from wild aurochs leather were especially famous. They tried to get a strip of leather for such a belt directly during the hunt, when the animal had already received a mortal wound, but had not yet given up the ghost. One must think that these belts were quite a rarity; the powerful and fearless forest bulls were very dangerous.

Trousers the Slavs did not wear them too wide: in surviving images they outline the leg. They were cut from straight panels. Scientists write that the trousers were made approximately ankle-length and tucked into onuchi at the shins - long, wide strips of fabric (canvas or wool) that were wrapped around the leg below the knee.

Another name for clothing for legs is “trousers”, as well as “legs”.

Portas, narrowed at the ankle, were made of canvas; noble men wore another one on top - silk or cloth. They were fastened at the waist with a cord - a cup (hence the expression “keep something in a stash”). The ports were tucked into boots made of colored leather, often embroidered with patterns or wrapped with onuchi (pieces of linen), and bast shoes were put on them, with ties pulled through the ears - frills, and the onuchi were wrapped with them.

Lapti At all times, our ancestors wore those woven not only from bast, but also from birch bark and even from leather straps. They were thick and thin, dark and light, simple and woven with patterns, and there were also elegant ones - made of tinted multi-colored bast.

The bast shoes were attached to the leg with the help of long ties - leather “twists” or rope “flips”. The ties crossed several times on the shin, catching the onuchi.

“How to weave a bast shoe,” our ancestors said about something very simple and uncomplicated.

Bast shoes had a very short service life. When preparing for a long journey, we took with us more than one pair of spare bast shoes. “To go on a journey is to weave five bast shoes,” said the proverb.

Leather shoes was predominantly an urban luxury. One of the main types of shoes of the Slavs of the 6th-9th centuries. there were undoubtedly shoes. In the common Slavic period they were called chereviks.

Most often, shoes were put on onuchi, which men wore over their pants, and women - directly on their bare legs.

Men's headdress The Slavs most likely called it a hat. For a long time, scientists came across this very word exclusively in princely letters and wills, where this sign of dignity was discussed. Only after 1951, when birch bark letters were found by archaeologists, and science received an unprecedented opportunity to look into the everyday life of ordinary people, it became clear that “hat” was called not only princely regalia, but men’s headwear in general. But the prince’s hat was sometimes called a “hood.”

The hats best known to researchers are specially cut hats—hemispherical, made of brightly colored material, with a band of precious fur. Stone and wooden idols that have been preserved from pagan times are dressed in similar hats; we also see them on the images of Slavic princes that have come down to us. It’s not for nothing that the Russian language has the expression “Monomakh’s hat.”

Frescoes on the stairs of the St. Sophia Cathedral in Kyiv and a bracelet from the 12th century have also been preserved: they depict musicians in pointed caps. Archaeologists found blanks for such a cap: two triangular pieces of leather, which the master never got around to sewing together.

Felted hats discovered during excavations date back to a slightly later era, as well as light summer hats woven from thin pine roots.

It can be assumed that the ancient Slavs wore a wide variety of fur, leather, felted, and wicker hats. And they did not forget to take them off not only when they saw the prince, but also simply when meeting an older, respected person - for example, with their own parents.

Women's headdress protects a woman from evil forces - the Slavs believed.

It was believed that hair contained magic life force; loose girlish braids are capable of bewitching a future husband, while a woman with her head uncovered can bring misfortune, damage to people, livestock, and crops. During a thunderstorm, she can be killed by thunder, since, according to legend, she becomes easy prey and a container evil spirits, which is targeted by thunder arrows. The expression “she was a fool” meant that she had disgraced her family.

Before marriage, the headdress (at least in summer) did not cover the top of the head, leaving the hair open. At the same time, girls' hair was worn outside, for show - this was not only not forbidden, but was even welcomed by those around them. A good braid was perhaps the main decoration of a girl in Ukraine, Belarus, and Russia

Little girls wore simple fabric ribbons or thin metal ribbons on their foreheads. Such corollas were made of silver, less often of bronze, with hooks or eyes at the ends for a cord that was tied at the back of the head.

Growing up, along with the ponyova, they received “beauty” - a maiden crown. It was also called “withered” - “bandage”, from “vyasti” - “knit”. This bandage was embroidered as elegantly as possible, sometimes, if there was enough money, even gold.

Master blacksmiths decorated the corollas with ornaments and gave them different shapes, including with an extension on the forehead, like Byzantine tiaras. Archaeological finds also confirmed the extreme antiquity of Slavic maiden crowns. A wreath on a girl’s head is, first of all, a talisman against the evil eye and evil spirits. At the same time, a circle is also a symbol of marriage; it is not without reason that when young people get married they circle the table, and at a wedding they circle the lectern. If a girl had a dream about losing a wreath, she expected trouble for herself. If a girl lost her virginity before the wedding, then she would lose a wreath at the wedding; half of it could be put on her as a sign of shame.

A wreath of artificial flowers and threads was often placed on the groom’s hat, protecting him from wedding lessons (to fix, to spoil - to jinx, to spoil). The flowers used for the wedding wreath were strictly defined: rosemary, periwinkle, boxwood, viburnum, rue, laurel, grapevine. In addition to flowers, amulets were sometimes sewn into it or inserted into it: red wool threads, onion, garlic, pepper, bread, oats, coins, sugar, raisins, ring. By the way, sprinkling the newlyweds with grain and money when they meet from the crown also has, first of all, a protective, and only then a lyrical meaning of wishes for fertility and wealth.

The headdress of a “manly” woman certainly covered her hair completely. This custom was associated with belief in magical powers. The groom threw a veil over his chosen one's head and thus became her husband and master. Indeed, one of the oldest Slavic names for a married woman’s headdress - “povoy” and “ubrus” - mean, in particular, “bedspread”, “towel”, “shawl”. “Povoy” also means “that which wraps around.”

Another type of headdress for married women is kika. A distinctive feature of the kika were... horns sticking up above the forehead. Horns are the protection of the mother and her unborn child from evil forces. They liken a woman to a cow, a creature sacred to the Slavs.

During the cold season, women of all ages covered their heads with a warm scarf.

Outerwear Slavs - this is a retinue, from the word “to twist” - “to dress”, “to wrap”, as well as a caftan and a fur coat. The retinue was put on over the head. It was made of cloth, with narrow long sleeves, the knees were necessarily covered, and girded with a wide belt. The caftans were the most various types and purposes: everyday, for riding, holiday - sewn from expensive fabrics, intricately decorated.

In addition to cloth, the Slavs' favorite and popular material for making warm clothing was dressed furs. There were many furs: fur-bearing animals were found in abundance in the forests. Russian furs enjoyed well-deserved fame both in Western Europe and in the East.

Subsequently, long-length casings began to be called “sheep coats” or “fur coats,” and those that were knee-length or shorter were called “short fur coats.”

Everything that we have now was received from our ancestors, they originated it, and we improved it. We must never forget our history. All discussions about the national idea are meaningless if they are not based on an understanding of the foundation of a given community.

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For many centuries, Russian national clothing has preserved the cultural values ​​of our people. The costume conveys the traditions and customs of the ancestors. Spacious cut, simple style, but beautifully and lovingly decorated details of the clothing convey the breadth of soul and flavor of the Russian land. It is not for nothing that the revival of Russian origins can now be seen in modern fashion collections.

The clothing of the ancient Slavs is the national dress of the population of Rus' until the reign of Peter I. The style, decoration, and image of the costume were formed under the influence of:

• The main activity of the population (farming, cattle breeding);
• Natural conditions;
• Geographical location;
• Relations with Byzantium and Western Europe.

The clothes of the Slavs were made from natural fibers (cotton, wool, linen), had a simple cut and length to the toes. The nobles wore bright colors (green, crimson, scarlet, azure), and the decorations were the most luxurious:

• Silk embroidery;
• Russian embroidery with gold and silver thread;
• Decoration with stones, beads, pearls;
• Fur decoration.

The image of clothing of Ancient Rus' began to emerge in ancient times, in the 14th century. It was worn by the tsar, boyars, and peasants until the 17th century.

Period 15-17 centuries. The Russian national costume retains its originality and acquires a more intricate cut. Under the influence of Polish culture, swinging and fitted clothing appeared among the Eastern Slavs. Velvet and silk fabrics are used. The noble princely and boyar classes had more expensive and multi-layered outfits.

Late 17th century. Peter I issues decrees prohibiting the wearing of national costumes by the nobility. These decrees did not apply only to priests and peasants. The decree prohibited sewing and selling Russian costumes, for which fines and even confiscation of property were provided. They were published by the Russian monarch in order to adopt European culture and strengthen relations with Europe. This measure of instilling someone else's taste had a negative impact on national development.

Second half of the 18th century. Catherine II tried to return the nobility to costumes European style Russian identity. This was manifested in the fabrics and splendor of the outfits.

Patriotic War of the 19th century. The patriotic spirit of the population is rising, which has returned interest in the national clothing of the Russian people. Noble young ladies began to wear sundresses and kokoshniks. The outfits were made from brocade and muslin.

20th century. Due to strained relations with suppliers from Europe, there was a return to the clothing style of Ancient Rus'. This appeared in fashion trends with elements of Russian style.

Kinds

Ancient Russian national clothing was very diverse and was divided into festive and everyday attire. It also varied depending on the region, social class of the owner, age, marital status and type of activity. But some features of the costume distinguished it from the clothing of other nationalities.

Features of Russian national clothes:

1. Multi-layered, especially among the nobility and women;
2. Loose fit. For convenience, they were supplemented with fabric inserts;
3. A belt was tied to decorate and hold clothing. The ornament embroidered on it was a talisman;
4. Clothes made in Rus' were all decorated with embroidery and carried a sacred meaning, protecting them from the evil eye;
5. From the pattern one could find out about the owner's age, gender, nobility;
6. Festive outfits were made from bright fabrics and richly decorated with trim;
7. There was always a headdress on the head, sometimes in several layers (for married women);
8. Each Slav had a set of ritual clothing, which was richer and more colorfully decorated. They wore it several times a year and tried not to wash it.

The decoration of Russian clothing contains information about the clan, family, customs, and occupations. The more expensive the fabrics and decoration of the suit, the more noble and rich the owner was considered.

Noble

The outfits of the princely and boyar classes maintained the Russian style in clothing until the end of the 17th century. Traditionally, it was distinguished by luxury and layering. Even the growth of territories and turbulent international relations did not change the national identity of ancient Russian clothing. And the boyars and nobles themselves stubbornly did not accept European fashion trends.

During the period of the 16th and early 17th centuries, the costume of the nobility became more diverse, which cannot be said about peasant clothing, which did not change for many centuries. The more layers there were in the outfit, the richer and more noble the owner was considered. The weight of the dress sometimes reached 15 kg or more. Even the heat did not cancel this rule. They wore long, wide clothes, sometimes open with a slit in the front. The outfits that emphasized the waist were beautiful. Ancient Russian women's clothing reached a mass of 15-20 kg, which made women move smoothly and majestically. This kind of gait was the female ideal.

Old Russian clothing of princes and boyars was made from expensive fabrics imported from Italy, England, Holland, Turkey, Iran, and Byzantium. Rich materials - velvet, satin, taffeta, brocade, calico, satin - were bright colors. They were decorated with sewing, embroidery, precious stones, and pearls.

Peasant

Clothing of ancient Rus' is one of the ancient types of folk art. Through decorative and applied arts, craftswomen passed on the traditions and origins of Russian culture. The clothing of Russian peasants, although simple, created a harmonious image, complemented by jewelry, shoes, and headdress.

The main materials for sewing were homespun canvas or woolen fabrics of simple weaving. Since the mid-19th century, factory-made fabrics with bright colored patterns (silk, satin, calico, satin, chintz) have appeared.

Peasant clothing was highly valued; it was taken care of, altered and worn almost to the point of disrepair. Festive clothes were kept in chests and passed from parents to children. She wore it rarely, 3-4 times a year, and they tried not to wash it.

After long days of work in the field or with livestock, the long-awaited holiday came. On this day, the peasants put on their best clothes. Beautifully decorated, it could tell about its owner Family status, the area where I come from. The embroidery depicted the sun, stars, birds, animals, and people. The ornament not only decorated, but also protected from evil spirits. Russian patterns on clothes were embroidered on the edges of the product: neck or collar, cuffs, hem.

All costumes differed from each other in color, style and decoration. And they conveyed the natural features of their native land.

Military

The Russian professional army did not always have uniform uniforms. In ancient Rus', warriors did not have a single uniform. Protective equipment was selected depending on financial capabilities and methods of combat. Therefore, even in small squads, the clothes and armor of Russian heroes were different.

In ancient times, under protective gear, men wore a cotton or linen shirt, belted at the waist. On the legs were canvas harem pants (ports), which were gathered not only at the waist, but also at the ankles and under the knees. They wore boots made from a single piece of leather. Later, nagovitsa appeared - iron stockings to protect the legs in battle, and for the hands - bracers (metal gloves).

The main armor until the 17th century was chain mail made of metal rings. It resembled a long-skirted shirt with short sleeves. Her weight was 6-12 kg. Afterwards, other types of body protection appeared:

• Baidana (larger, thinner rings) weighing up to 6 kg;
• “Plate armor” - metal plates 3 mm thick were attached to a leather or fabric base;
• “Scaly armor” was also attached to the base, but resembled fish scales.

The armor of the warriors was supplemented on the head with a metal helmet with a spire. It could be supplemented with a half mask and aventail (chain mail mesh that protected the neck and shoulders). In Rus' in the 16th century, tegilai (quilted shell) appeared. This is an elongated quilted caftan with a thick layer of cotton wool or hemp. It had short sleeves, a stand-up collar, and metal plates sewn onto the chest. It was more often worn by poor wars. Such protective armor of Russian warriors existed until the 17th century.

Details and their meaning in clothing

Across the vast Russian territory, national clothing varied, sometimes even significantly. This can be seen in photographs and in museums. The depiction of people in Russian attire in the paintings conveys all the versatility and originality of ancient Rus'. The skillfully made jewelry of the craftswomen amazes with the complexity of the work.

Each region was famous for its decorative arts. If the nobility tried to have rich and original clothes that were not repeated by anyone, then the peasants decorated them with embroidery of natural motifs and invested their love for mother earth.

Male

The basis of ancient Russian men's clothing was a shirt and trousers. All men wore them. The nobility made them from expensive material with rich embroidery. The peasants had them made from homespun material.

Until the 17th century, trousers were wide, but later they became narrower and tied with a cord at the waist and ankles. The pants were tucked into the shoes. The nobility wore 2 pairs of trousers. The upper ones were often made of silk or cloth. IN winter time they were covered in fur.

Shirt

Another obligatory clothing of ancient Rus' for men was a shirt. For rich people it was an underwear item, and peasants wore it when going out without outer clothing (caftan, zipun). The shirt had a slit at the neck in the front or side, usually on the left (kosovorotka). The trim on the neck and cuffs was usually made of expensive fabric, embroidered or decorated with braid. Bright designs on the braid were in the form of plant patterns. The shirt was tied with silk or woolen cord, sometimes with tassels, and worn for graduation. Young people on the belt, older people - lower, making an overlap above the waist. He played the role of a pocket. Shirts were made from linen, silk, and satin fabric.

Zipun

A zipun was worn over the shirt. It was knee-length, with a belt and buttoned end-to-end. The narrow sleeves were fastened at the cuffs with buttons. A beautifully decorated collar was attached to the neckline. Zipun was most often worn at home, but young people sometimes wore it outside.

Kaftan

The nobles wore a caftan when going out. There were many styles, the common length being below the knees.

• More often the caftan was long, not fitted, with long sleeves. Butt fastened with 6-8 buttons. This ancient Russian clothing was decorated with a standing collar, decorated with embroidery and stones;
• They also wore a homemade wraparound caftan with buttons, metal or wood. In rich houses, gold buttons were used. Long sleeves were rolled up, but elbow-length options were more comfortable;
• Another style of caftan - chucha - was worn for horse riding. It had side slits and cropped sleeves for comfort;
• Polish culture in the 17th century influenced the appearance of the caftan, which fit tightly to the figure and flared below the waist. The long sleeves were voluminous at the shoulder and tapered greatly below the elbow.

The nobleman also had ceremonial clothing, its names were a cloak or a feryaz, which was worn over a caftan. The length of the outfits reached the calves or the floor; the dress itself was trimmed with fur or decorated with a fur collar. The wide shawl was fastened with one button. To sew the outfit, dark green, dark blue cloth or gold brocade was used.

Fur coat

If the caftan and furyaz were inaccessible to the peasants, then almost all segments of the population had a fur coat. Fur coats were made with the fur inside, expensive and not very expensive. Voluminous ones with large sleeves reached to the ground or were below the knees. Peasants wore hare and sheep fur coats. And rich, noble people sewed them from the skins of sable, marten, fox, and arctic fox.

Headdress

A mandatory attribute of Russian clothing was fur hat, resembling a high cap. Among the nobility, it was decorated with embroidery with gold thread. At home, boyars and nobles wore tafya, similar to a skullcap. When going outside, they put on a murmolka and a cap made of expensive fabric with a fur trim over the tafya.

Shoes

The most common footwear among peasants is bast shoes. Not everyone had leather boots, so they were very much appreciated. Instead of boots, peasants wrapped their feet tightly in cloth and sewed leather onto their feet. Boyars, princes, and nobles had the most common footwear in ancient Rus' - boots. The toes are usually turned up. Shoes were made from colored brocade, morocco and decorated with multi-colored stones.

Women's clothing

The main women's ancient Russian clothing was a shirt, a sundress, and a poneva. For formation folk costume The southern regions of ancient Rus' were influenced by Ukrainian and Belarusian culture. Women's outfit consisted of a canvas shirt and a poneva (swinging skirt). On top, women put on an apron or cufflink and tied a belt. A high kick or magpie is required on the head. The entire outfit was richly decorated with embroidery.

The Slavic costume of the northern lands had a sundress shirt and an apron. Sundresses were made from a single cloth or from wedges and decorated with braid, lace, and embroidery. The headdress was a scarf or kokoshnik decorated with beads and pearls. In cold weather, they wore long fur coats or short shower jackets.

Shirt

Worn by women of all social classes, they differed in fabric and decoration. It was made from cotton, linen, expensive ones - from silk. The hem, collar and sleeves were decorated with embroidery, braid, appliqué, lace and other patterns. Sometimes dense designs decorated the chest area. Each province had different patterns, ornaments, colors and other details.

Features of the shirt:

• Simple cut with straight pieces;
• The sleeves were wide and long, so as not to interfere, they wore bracelets;
• The hem reached to the toes;
• Often a shirt was made from two parts (the upper one was expensive, the lower one was cheaper, as it wore out quickly);
• Richly decorated with embroidery;
• There were several shirts, but smart ones were rarely worn.

Sundress

Ancient Russian women's clothing was worn until the 18th century in all segments of the population. They sewed things from canvas, satin, brocade, and silk. Sheathed satin ribbons, braid, embroidery. At first the sundress looked like a sleeveless dress, then it became more varied:

• Deaf - sewn from one piece of fabric folded in half, a neck was made along the fold, decorated with bright fabric;
• Swing, oblique - appeared later and 3-4 fabrics were used for its sewing. Decorated with ribbons and patterned inserts;
• Straight, swing - sewn from straight fabrics, which were gathered on the chest. It was held on by two narrow straps;
• A type of straight one made of two parts - a skirt and a bodice.

Among rich women, a shushun sundress with flared bottoms was common. Extended sleeves were sewn onto it, but they were not worn. The shushun was fastened with buttons all the way to the bottom.

Poneva

The skirt is made of three layers of woolen fabric. They wove at home, alternating wool and hemp threads. A cellular pattern was created. Decorated with tassels and fringes. Young women decorated more brightly. Only married women wore it, sometimes with a shirt hanging from their belt. An apron or cufflink with a hole for the head was put on top of the skirt.

Outerwear:

• The flyer was sewn from a plain fabric and reached the calves in length. It was decorated with a fur collar;
• A shower warmer is a short garment, just below the waist, quilted with cotton lining. It was trimmed with bright fabrics, brocade, satin and fur. Worn by peasants and nobility;
• A fur coat sewn with fur inside was worn by women of all classes; peasant women had cheaper furs.

Hats

The clothing in the Russian style is completed with a headdress, which was different for unmarried and married women. The girls had part of their hair open, and they tied ribbons, hoops, headbands, and openwork crowns on their heads. Married women covered their heads with a headscarf over their kiki. The headdress of the southern regions was in the form of a spatula and horns.

In the northern regions, women wore kokoshniks. The headdress looked like a round shield. Its solid base was decorated with brocade, pearls, beads, beads, and among the nobility - expensive stones.

Children's

There was little children's clothing, it was valued, and in appearance it looked like an adult outfit. The younger children carried the older ones to term. Just for little ones, it could be with short sleeves, for convenience it could even resemble a dress.

The first diaper a boy was born with was his father's shirt, and a girl's was her mother's. In ancient Rus', clothes for children were altered from parents' outfits. It was believed that the energy and strength of the parents would protect the baby from any illnesses or the evil eye of others. Shirts for boys and girls were no different; they were thick and long to the toes. The clothes were lovingly decorated with maternal embroidery, which was a talisman for the child.

At about 3 years old, children were sewn their first shirt from a new linen. A 12 summer girls a new poneva or sundress was required, and boys were given harpoon pants. For teenage children, the outfits were more varied; adult models were repeated: blouses, trousers, fur coats, hats.

Traditional clothing of Ancient Rus' has long gone into history. But fashion ideas designers look impressive in a modern outfit with elements of Russian style. Ethnic looks are in fashion now.

Dresses in Russian design attract with their modesty, restraint with a shallow neckline, middle length or almost to the floor. Russian patterns on clothes add sophistication and originality:

• Floral motifs on fabric;
• Hand embroidery of plant patterns;
• Sewing, appliqués;
• Decoration with beads, ribbons;
• Lace making, crocheting, knitting.

Trimming is done on the cuffs, hem, neck or yoke. Very popular natural fabrics(cotton, linen). And delicate colors (blue, beige, green, pistachio) convey femininity and purity. The style of a dress or sundress can be different, either loose or fitted with a slightly flared or “sun” skirt. Sleeves are long and short.

They complement the image in folklore flavor with jewelry, accessories (large earrings, beads, strap) and outerwear. This could be a vest, a coat or a warm fur coat, or a muff. A fur hat or brightly colored scarves on your head will complement the look. Fashion designers sometimes use a layering effect in modern outfits by changing the volume and shape of the sleeves.

Currently, Russian-style clothing sets for men, women, and children add national flavor to folk festivities and holidays. A new trend - a party in Russian folk style - brings guests back to Ancient Rus', to its traditions, round dances, and games.

Russian national clothing is the keeper of cultural roots. Artistic image survived through many centuries. Nowadays there is a revival of interest in Russian traditions, holidays, and culture. New modern outfits are appearing that use elements of Russian costume.

It is worth noting that the clothing of ancient Rus' had its own specific characteristics, because it determined the lifestyle of the inhabitants of that time, their worldview and attitude towards everything around them. Clothing in Ancient Rus' was distinguished by its individual style, although some elements were still borrowed from other peoples of the world.

So, ancient Russian clothing had the following characteristics:

1. Clothing for every resident of Rus' was an integral attribute, since it protected the body from cold and heat, and also protected its owner from evil spirits, that is, it protected him. As a talisman, people wore all kinds of jewelry, amulets, and embroidered things.
2. It is worth noting that both princes and ordinary people wore similar clothes in their structure. But there was still a difference - in the materials from which the clothes were made. For example, linen clothing was especially common among peasants, but princes used materials for these purposes that were brought from distant overseas countries.
3. If we talk about children, at that time they mostly wore long shirts. As a rule, children's clothes were made from old parents' clothes. The fact is that there was a long-standing belief that the clothes of parents protected their children.
4. Residents of Ancient Rus' believed very much that clothes absorb a person’s strength and spirit. That is why clothes for boys were mainly made from the cast-offs of their father's clothes, and for girls - from the cast-offs from their mother's clothes.

Clothes for women

The main component of women's clothing is a shirt or chemise. If we talk about a shirt, it was considered body wear underwear, which was usually sewn from thick and rough fabric. But the shirt, on the contrary, was sewn by the inhabitants of Ancient Rus' from fairly thin and light materials, which, as a rule, could be afforded by representatives of the upper class. The girls were dressed in canvas clothes, which were called “zapona”. Such things were a piece of fabric folded in half with a cutout for the head.

To be more specific, the cufflink was put on a shirt, and it was belted. Women also wore a “navershnik” (we are talking about clothing of a ceremonial nature). Such things were made from expensive materials, and there was a lot of embroidery. More specifically, the presented version resembles a modern tunic. The top could be either with or without sleeves, and the length could also be different.

In winter, women wore special fur casings, and in summer - one shirt. If we were talking about holidays, then on these days it was customary to wear long sleeves. They also had a poneva, which resembles a modern skirt. Different tribes had their own ponevs: some preferred to wear a blue check, others - a red one.

Men's clothing in Ancient Rus'

The men's wardrobe consisted of a shirt, pants and a belt. The length of the arm was almost knee-length; such shirts had to be belted. It is worth noting that the sleeve of the shirt also had to be secured with a ribbon. Men also wore an outer shirt, which was usually called a red shirt or top.

If we talk about the pants, they were not very wide. Men's trousers did not have any fastenings at the top, so they were tied at the waist with ropes. If we talk about warriors, they had special leather belts with metal plaques. The princes dressed in clothes made from expensive fabrics. It is worth noting that the princes trimmed the hems with a gold-colored border and beautiful patterns. The collars also had a golden color.

It is important to say that the rich inhabitants of Ancient Rus' had belts decorated with silver and gold. Naturally, the clothes of ancient Rus' were not worn without such an important accessory as shoes. The boots were made of morocco, sometimes embroidered with gold threads. Noble people could be seen wearing a high hat with a sable edge. This type of hat was called a “hood”.

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Currently, the fashion for traditional Russian clothing is experiencing a rebirth. Many things that were familiar appear to modern man only from old books and fairy tales. Along with peasant costumes, popular in Rus', traditional clothes ancient Slavs, which served as the prototype for all Slavic costumes of later times.

Despite the fact that women and men's suits of that era are quite clearly described in historical works; some fashion designers believe that it is enough to place a Slavic pattern on a shirt or dress for it to be considered national. Actually it's simple modern clothes in the Slavic style, not bearing any historical authenticity.

A look into the ancient history of Slavic costume

The clothing of the ancient Slavs was in no way reminiscent of any of the traditional costumes that are now so popular. Due to the fact that most of the people lived in the wilderness, and trade caravans did not even enter there, clothing was made from animal skins. After Ancient Rome began to conquer the ancestral barbarian lands, the Slavs began to become acquainted with fabric clothing. However, it was available only to leaders and noble warriors, as it was quite expensive.

If among the Western Slavs things made of fabric ceased to be something outstanding, then the clothes of the Eastern Slavs were fur for a long time. With the spread of Roman culture and trade, the Slavs had the opportunity to join civilization. In exchange for the skins of fur-bearing animals, they received cloth clothing and fabrics. After some time, the Slavs themselves learned to spin things from wool, flax or hemp.

In the winter Slavic style of clothing, furs played the main role for a long time, but gradually they began to be replaced by warm clothes made of natural wool. Judging by archaeological excavations, the main raw material for everyday clothing ordinary people served flax and wool.

The traditional costume of a man of the Slavic family consisted of the following main parts:

• A simple shirt;
• Trousers or pants;
• Scrolls or caftan.

As a rule, these clothes were linen or wool. The shirt was sewn in a tunic-like form, with long sleeves. The shirt was necessarily accompanied by a belt with which the owner was tied. More simple clothes worn by poor farmers, and the nobility decorated their shirts with embroidery. As a rule, it was Slavic symbolism, carrying a deep sacred meaning. In addition, such shirts had ribbons designed to tighten the sleeves at the wrists.

The pants had a narrow cut and ankle length. To prevent them from falling off, a special string called a belt was used. A shirt and trousers without outerwear were worn mainly in the warm season. If it was cold, you had to wear a scroll or caftan. Noble Slavs often wore a basket lined with light fur over their caftan.

In winter they wore jackets and fur coats. As for the latter, despite the widespread belief that a fur coat is the clothing of steppe nomads, it is a traditional Slavic invention.

If simple farmers had only one suit, then the nobility also had festive outfits, which were richly decorated. This suit had fine trim and rich embroidery.

Clothes of Slavic women and various decorations

Although Slavic women did not wear pants, the most common part of their wardrobe was a long shirt. Unlike men's everyday items, women's shirts were often decorated with the following elements:

• Various embroidery;
• Braid;
• Scenes from life or mythological birds and animals.

Although some sources claim that straight long dresses or sundresses, which were sewn by women themselves, were worn on naked body, in fact, all clothing was worn exclusively on the undershirt. Women usually wore ponevs, casings or fur coats as warm outerwear. The more fur a woman wore, the higher her status was considered.

Women wore various headbands, headbands and aureoles as headdresses. This was often decorated with various plates, embroidery and traditional designs. The traditional headdresses for Russian costume, kokoshniks, have not yet appeared in the Slavic environment. The first kokoshniks were found during excavations in Novgorod and date back to the 10th-11th centuries.

As for women's jewelry, Slavic women wore specific temple rings. In addition, the following decorations were often found:

• Beads of various colors;
• Necklaces;
• Massive bracelets;
• Rings and rings.

Although films often show Slavic women with massive and complex rings on their fingers, jewelry making in Ancient Rus' was poorly developed, so the rings were simple.

Children in Rus' dressed the same as their parents. The main element of a children's costume was a long shirt. If boys wore trousers, then girls had sundresses. While as an adult casual wear In most cases, it was devoid of decorations and embroidery; children's clothes had their own special decorations. Since the mortality rate of children from disease was very high, each mother tried to embroider protective embroidery with ancient runes or signs using red threads.

Another feature of the children's outfit were special bells, which were woven into girls' hair, and boys were sewn onto their hats.

Children's shoes were also more colorful. Various ornaments, notches and inserts made of colored threads were often found. Traditionally, girls' shoes were more dressy.

Features of Russian folk costume

Currently, the oldest Russian costumes that have been preserved in museums to this day date back to the beginning of the 18th century. Some examples have been preserved in private collections, and some have been passed down as souvenirs to wealthy peasant families. During the establishment of Soviet power in Russia, many wealthy peasants were repressed or expelled, so the clothes were not preserved.

Another source by which one can judge what the clothes of our ancestors looked like is literature. From pictures and descriptions from old books you can see what Russian costume looked like in the 16th and 17th centuries. Later samples of clothing can only be restored thanks to archaeologists, who, with the help of modern technology, can determine not only appearance fabric, but also its composition and even embroidery.

Judging by the finds of archaeologists, Russian costume until the beginning of the 18th century was approximately the same. The same style of attire could be seen among both ordinary peasants and noble boyars. Only a boyar could afford things made of expensive fabric and fur coat. In addition, he could be immediately distinguished by his high beaver hat, which only noble people could wear.

Severe damage to traditional Russian clothing was caused by Peter the Great, who forbade the boyars to dress in accordance with ancient customs. After this, the Russian costume remained only among the peasantry, merchants and philistines. True, after some time, Catherine the Second revived the “a la Russe” fashion, but this did not help much, since by that time the nobility had become accustomed to a variety of suits of European cut.

The last traditional Russian costumes were worn at the beginning of the 20th century in villages, but only for weddings and major holidays.

The main features of the Russian costume

Traditional costumes, which were used in Russian provinces until the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th century, were distinguished by their multi-layered nature, especially female models. Married women wore a ponyova over their clothes. A girl who had already been betrothed could also put on a blanket wrap. All Russian clothing had the following common features:

• Clothes were usually loose-fitting. This made it possible to divide it into only a few basic sizes. As a rule, these were children's and adult sizes. To tailor it to a specific person, a system of inserts and various ties was used;
• Any costume must have such a mandatory element as a belt. Its main function was to support clothing. In addition, it was in the belt that Russian men put knives and axes. In some parts of Russia, belts were embroidered with protective ornaments and symbols;
• The key element of Russian national costume there was embroidery. From these patterns it was possible to recognize not only clan affiliation, but also social status;
• Festive costumes are distinguished by their brightness and variety of different inserts, sparkles and beaded decorations. Casual work clothes were usually gray;
• Hats were considered an integral part of men's and women's clothing. The most famous headdress of married women is the kokoshnik. This is a festive item of clothing; contrary to popular belief, it was not worn in everyday life. The weight of the kokoshnik in some cases could reach 5 kg.

Clothes in Rus' were considered of great value, so they were passed on not only from adults to children, but also through several generations.

Features of women's costume in the south of Russia and central Russia

The main element of the Russian women's costume in the south of Russia was the same long linen or canvas shirt. A ponyova was put on top of it. It happened that instead of a ponyova an andorak was worn, which was wide skirt on braid or elastic. A cufflink and an apron were put on top. Kika and magpie were used as headdress. All women's clothing was richly decorated with embroidery. Ryazan costumes were the brightest, and Voronezh peasants embroidered their clothes with patterns of black thread.

In central Russia, clothing consisted of a shirt, sundress and apron. The headdress was a kokoshnik and an ordinary scarf. In the northern regions, fur jackets and fur coats up to the toes were often found. Each province was famous for its craftswomen, skilled in some kind of needlework:

• The most beautiful kokoshniks were made in Siberia;
• The best lace was made in the Arkhangelsk province;
• Tverskaya has the best gold embroidery.

Rich women from the merchant class ordered elements of their outfits from different parts of Russia.

Traditional men's clothing in Russia

Traditional men's clothing in Russia was not as diverse as women's. The main element of the costume was a long shirt. Unlike the old Slavic undershirts, these had an oblique cutout on the left. It is for this reason that they were called kosovorotki. However, in the south of the country, straight cuts were also common.

The pants were narrow, although sometimes, among peasants, wide models were still found. The pants were held at the waist by a special ribbon called a gashnik. As for the material, the pants were made of canvas or wool. Solid colors or narrow stripes predominated. In the southern regions, Cossacks wore more traditional trousers, which could be blue or red.

Until now, a wide belt, which was often decorated with embroidery, remained popular. Wallets, bags of tobacco and other small items could be tied to it. In central Russia and the north of the country, men often wore vests. This element of clothing was especially popular among merchants and wealthy peasants. Headdresses made of cloth were widely used. At a later time, soft cloth hats were everywhere replaced by caps.

Russian folk shirt and its features

Since those times when clothes from fabric began to be sewn on the territory of modern Russia, the main element of the costume has been a long shirt. They were worn by everyone, from young to old, regardless of age and social status. The shirts were of the same cut, differing only in the quality of the fabric and the richness of the embroidery. From the embroidery one could immediately understand what class a person belonged to. Children's clothing was often altered from adult clothing.

All Russian shirts had the following common features:

• The cut of the clothing was very simple, and the shirt itself was very spacious;
• A gusset was always inserted under the arms;
• The sleeves were sewn very long, it happened that they covered the entire hand with fingers. Especially long sleeves there were women's and children's clothing;
• The shirts were long; women's models often reached the floor. Male models could reach to the knees and were never tucked into pants;
• Girls and women could often sew their own shirt from two materials of different quality. The upper part, which was visible, was made of expensive fabric and richly decorated with embroidery, and the lower part was made of simple fabric;
• Most shirts were decorated with embroidery, and it had a protective meaning. These patterns were an echo of paganism, and were supposed to protect a person from evil spirits;
• There were work shirts, festive and ritual.

Festive and ritual things were often passed down from generation to generation.

After the undershirt, the most common element of women's clothing in central and northern Russia was the sundress. Until the 18th century, sundresses were worn by all layers of Russian society. After the reforms of Peter the Great, sundresses began to be worn only among peasants. Until the mid-20th century, sundresses remained the only elegant women's clothing women in Russia.

Judging by archaeological excavations, the first sundresses appeared around the 14th century. Most often, elegant and decorated sundresses were worn on holidays along with kokoshniks, which could be very heavy.

Modern fashion often turns to traditional Russian style. Embroidered shirts and sundresses can be found on the street in Everyday life. I am glad that domestic fashion designers have stopped blindly copying Western clothes, and are increasingly drawing inspiration from Russian traditions.