• Classification of decorative cosmetics. What is decorative cosmetics

    16.08.2019

    Content
    Introduction
    From the history of cosmetics
    About the meaning of cosmetics
    General classification and characteristics of the range of cosmetic products
    Characteristics of the assortment decorative cosmetics
    Reliability of cosmetics
    Characteristics of quality indicators of decorative cosmetics
    Factors influencing the preservation of the quality of cosmetic products
    Market formation. Market objectives. The role of the market in stimulating production
    Sales and advertising of cosmetic products
    Expertise, quality control and certification of cosmetic products
    Conclusion
    References

    Introduction

    It is a sin if a woman looks less beautiful than she could be.
    In recent decades, the consumption of cosmetic products throughout the world, including in our country, has been increasing. A huge number of new goods with new consumer properties, many previously unknown companies, both foreign and Russian, have appeared on the Russian market. A wide range and variety of cosmetic products, of course, is a positive factor, but it often confuses us when choosing one product or another. Intense and not always conscientious advertising often misleads consumers. Unfortunately, in domestic publications, assessments of cosmetic products are often given not by specialists, but, as a rule, by journalists, based on their consumer experience.
    The range of decorative cosmetics produced by the industry is varied and includes the following types of products: foundation, powder, blush, lipsticks and lip glosses, eye shadow, mascara, eye pencils, eyebrow pencils, nail polishes. In terms of the number of products produced, decorative cosmetics occupy one of the leading places in the total production of cosmetics.
    Decorative cosmetics are an integral part of sorority life. It helps highlight beauty female face, give it individuality and hide minor flaws. Cosmetics allow us to be closer to the external ideal and feel more confident.
    Beauty and health should be taken care of daily and systematically. After all, the wise words of de Lenclos’ aphorism still remain in force: “There are no ugly women. There are only women who do not know how to make themselves beautiful.”
    In my opinion, the topic of decorative cosmetics will always remain relevant.

    From the history of cosmetics
    The history of cosmetology dates back to ancient times. Already primitive people tried to keep their bodies clean and embellish their appearance. This is evidenced by the findings of archaeologists who studied the settlements of the ancients, and the works of ethnographers who studied the life of tribes that have survived to this day. Body painting, tattooing, all kinds of balms were also used in Everyday life, and for various rituals and religious ceremonies.
    It is generally accepted that the homeland modern cosmetics- The Ancient East. Already in Ancient Egypt, cosmetics were used quite widely. The art of making cosmetics was mastered mainly by priests. Wealthy people used expensive methods to improve their appearance (both women and men wore makeup), using special substances, while less wealthy people used simple “folk” remedies. Taking care of appearance was of paramount importance for Egyptian women. In addition to the eyebrow pencil, they were well aware of lipstick, nail polish, hair dye, scented water and other attributes of the arsenal modern woman. The acrid juice of some types of iris was used as a blush (skin irritation with this juice caused redness that persisted for a long time). In some cases, cosmetics had a preventive value. For example, eyeliner not only for women, but also for men prevented inflammation of the eyelids from the blinding sun and dry wind.
    The famous Nefertiti, wife of Pharaoh Akhenaten, is considered the ideal of female beauty in ancient Egypt. The natural beauty of a perfect face was still helped by cosmetics: skin care, makeup, and jewelry were obvious. The design of the mouth, eyebrows, and eyes was emphasized with makeup, and the cheeks were also tinted. It is believed that she perfectly mastered the art of makeup.
    From the 16th century. BC e. methods of using powdered alabaster and honey as a cosmetic product, and dye compositions for coloring eyelids green and their edges black, have come down to us. Lips and cheeks were tinted with henna. The oldest lipstick was discovered during excavations in the Sumerian city of Ur (35 BC).
    A special place in the history of cosmetology belongs to the cosmetics of Ancient India and Ancient China. In these countries there was a real cult of female beauty, to maintain and improve which they used mascara, white face paint, and nail polish. In China, it was customary for children to paint their cheeks with red paint in the shape of an apple, so that the Almighty, looking at the children, would be pleased, seeing that they were joyful and healthy. And here is what the Chinese sages said about the beauty of a woman: “It is better to admire a beauty while dressing in the morning after she has powdered her face.” And one more thing: “A wise woman can change every day, never exhausting her wonderful transformations...”
    To blacken the eyes and eyebrows, Greek women used soot, adding the juice of astringent herbs or soot to it, and fixing it with a mixture of egg white and light resin. Lips and cheeks were reddened with red lead, or finely ground powders and compounds that caused a rush of blood to the cheeks.
    IN Ancient Rus' the women wore their makeup with all their might. So much so that they seemed simply painted with a brush. IN for cosmetic purposes, as in all other countries, mainly herbal remedies were used, the properties of which the pagans knew perfectly. For example, raspberry and cherry juice were used for blush and lipstick, and beets were rubbed on the cheeks. To make the skin white, they used wheat flour or chalk. Plants were also used to dye hair, for example, onion skins were used to dye hair Brown color, saffron with chamomile - in white and yellow. Scarlet dye was obtained from barberry, crimson from young apple tree leaves, green from onion feathers, nettle leaves, yellow from saffron leaves, sorrel and alder bark, etc.
    The first "Encyclopedia of Beauty" was published in Paris in 1806, it contained tips on how to make your skin more beautiful.
    Late 19th – early 20th centuries. characterized by intensive development of cosmetic production. A feature of this period is the cult of natural materials and at the same time the use of substances obtained chemically. In addition, the requirements for cosmetics have changed, and their range has expanded.
    Nowadays, the main rule when using cosmetics is to use high-quality cosmetics, provided they are harmless to the skin and body.
    About the meaning of cosmetics
    Perhaps there are also people who reject cosmetics, arguing that even the best cosmetics will not turn an ugly woman into a beauty and that a truly beautiful woman does not need cosmetics. However, this attitude towards cosmetics is fundamentally wrong. It could be compared with the statement that a smart person does not need school, but no school will help a stupid person. In the same way, there are no people so ugly that their appearance could not be improved through care and beautification.
    Female beauty cannot be viewed only from the point of view of cold, businesslike aesthetics; female beauty is always associated with feelings; it must influence the emotions of those for whom a woman wants to be beautiful. In ways cosmetic care a person's personality emerges. It is not enough just to want to always be cosmetically in order, you also need to be able to do it correctly. A woman's natural desire to be beautiful is deeply rooted in the biological and social division of labor. Human beauty is not given once and for all - it is constantly changing. And in accordance with the development of taste as one of the components of culture, people try to look more beautiful.
    General classification and characteristics of the range of cosmetic products
    Cosmetic products include products (substances or preparations) intended for application to the human body for the purpose of cleansing, protecting and giving an attractive appearance. Cosmetics can have a preventive effect, but never a therapeutic one. The latter should be prescribed by doctors, and not chosen by consumers themselves.
    There is currently no single generally accepted classification of cosmetic products. A standard for the classification and terminology of cosmetic products has not been developed. It is very difficult to make a clear classification of cosmetics. It is usually based on the properties declared by the manufacturer and often exaggerated for advertising purposes.
    The general characteristics of the classification include the purpose and functional effect of cosmetics: hygienic, cosmetic, decorative, protective, therapeutic and prophylactic and special (Table 1). Here you should focus on their main function.
    General classification of cosmetics
    Table 1

    Classification feature Classification group Types of cosmetics
    Functional action Hygienic (cleansing) Cosmetic (moisturizing, nourishing, toning, etc.) Decorative Protective Therapeutic and prophylactic Special Soaps, shampoos Creams, lotions, balms, perpirants Powder, lipstick Hand and body creams Toothpastes Depilators
    Consistency Liquid Emulsion Jelly-like Ointment-like Waxy Powdery Lotions, shampoos, varnishes Creams, shampoos Creams, balms Creams, gloss Lipsticks Powders, shadows
    Skin type, hair For dry skin (hair) For normal skin (hair) For oily skin (hair) Creams, shampoos, Lotions, Milk, etc.

    Characteristics of the range of decorative cosmetics
    The range of decorative cosmetics is divided into four groups depending on the intended use (purpose):
    1) facial products
    2) lip products
    3) eye products
    4) nail products.
    See table. 2
    A common feature of the classification of the range of decorative cosmetics is color(tone), the range of which depends on the type of cosmetics and fashion trends. Thus, cosmetics for lips and nails are produced in the same range, which does not differ in range from cosmetics for the face and eyes. In addition, decorative cosmetics vary in availability shine or its absence (matte surface), as well as the presence of pearlescent luster. All other characteristics of the classification of the range of decorative cosmetics are considered according to the above groups (see Fig. 1).

    Decorative cosmetics for face
    The background on which the eyes and lips are emphasized is the basis of all makeup. Depending on the condition and type of skin, problems may arise when using powder or foundation for makeup. Therefore, makeup begins with the selection of a cosmetic product, which is called a “makeup base” and is used to:
    · make facial skin smooth, even, hide minor imperfections;
    · moisturize the skin and create conditions for applying powder, foundation, blush;
    · protect the skin from adverse environmental influences and decorative cosmetics containing dyes.
    Assortment of decorative cosmetics
    Table 2


    When selecting basics It should be taken into account that its range varies according to skin type, consistency, shade and situation of use (for daily and evening makeup).
    By consistency distinguish the basics:
    § liquid – light, suitable for any skin type, except very dry, and for any age;
    § cream – for dry and already middle-aged skin;
    § mousses – contain nutrients, ideal for dry skin;
    § hard – compact, contain powder, for any skin except very dry skin.
    By shade The bases range from pink to dark yellow. The so-called additional foundations, which serve to correct the shape of the face, have colors unusual for the skin: green, lavender, white. An additional base is applied under the regular base layer, thereby giving it a tint. So, a white base is suitable for evening makeup and gives it a special tone. Determine the color of the foundation in natural light, applying a little product to the jawline. In this case, special attention should be paid to how the color combines with the skin of the face and neck. The base is applied to moistened skin of the face, neck, and décolleté with a cosmetic sponge (not your fingers), first pointwise, and then rubbed.
    The final touch of makeup is applied to the skin. powders And blush.
    The main decorative purpose of powder is to give the skin color and dullness, which is achieved by introducing pigments into its composition.
    Foundations They have the basis of conventional emulsion creams for any skin, but pigments are introduced into them (5 - 10%). Therefore, the range of foundation creams is usually divided only by shade, for example “natural” matte shade».
    Cream powder contains more pigments (up to 30%), therefore it has a thicker consistency. When applied to the skin with a dry sponge, it gives an effect close to powder, and when applied with a damp sponge, it acts like a foundation.
    Concealing cream used for the skin under the eyes and masking minor defects. Companies produce such products in the form of series, for example, series developed by L'Oreal and Maybelline.
    Concealer pencils have an even thicker consistency. They have high coverage and therefore mask redness and skin imperfections. They may contain bactericidal components (masking pencils of the Lumene-Clear Jine series - with an antiseptic effect).
    Compact (pressed) powder differs from powder in that when pressed, the pigment particles stick together tightly and, as a result, lie on the skin in a thicker layer. To improve compaction, a binder is added to the compact powder, which should not be too much, otherwise the powder becomes hard.
    Blush Available in two varieties: hard(powdery, compact) and creamy(fat based). In terms of content, the former are similar to dry eye shadows and powders, the latter are similar to creams and concealing pencils. Blush varies in shade. The range of solid (“dry”) blushes is wider, they are more popular than fat-based blushes. As a rule, blush is included in cosmetic sets with powder or eye shadow.
    Decorative cosmetics for lips
    basis good makeup lips is their well-groomed skin without cracks and peeling. Therefore, all modern makeup products, like lip care products, contain vitamins, moisturizers and sunscreens. Lip makeup is preceded by cleansing - with non-alcoholic lotion and cosmetic milk, if long-lasting lipstick was previously used. Lip makeup is performed by three types of cosmetics:

    1) contour pencil;
    2) lip gloss;
    3) lipstick.
    Range lipsticks varied in color (tone), which is indicated by the tone number. Large companies produce several dozen tones. Thus, the Lumene series from Noiro, popular in Russia, includes 54 tones. The choice of color depends on age, the specific situation (day or evening makeup), and fashion trends. Lipsticks are divided into sustainable(leaving no traces when touched) and ordinary(soft, moisturizing, etc.). Not only waxes, but also liquid paraffin and silicones give lipstick durability. Sometimes on the labeling of long-lasting lipsticks there is a clarification - “kissproof” (kissproof, super-resistant), which relates more to advertising than to the characteristics of the lipstick. Long-lasting lipsticks are produced by Max Factor, L'Oreal, Noiro, Lancome and many others. The peculiarity of using long-lasting lipsticks is that after application they must set, for which you should not squeeze your lips for 1 - 2 minutes.
    Moisturizing lipsticks are the least durable, so they are recommended to be used with a contour pencil and not applied during sports or on the beach. To increase the stability of ordinary lipstick, it is applied twice, after the first layer of lipstick, the lips are powdered, and the excess of the second layer is removed with a napkin.
    Lip gloss– this is a cosmetic product for light lip makeup, occupies an intermediate position between hygienic and lipsticks. Sometimes the name indicates “lipstick-gloss”. Gloss is often applied to the lips with a brush - applicator. This cosmetic product is intended to protect lips, care for them, and improve their natural color ( natural makeup), instead of lipsticks to create a light summer makeup. For evening makeup, gloss is applied to lipstick.
    Lip gloss is produced in one color or several shades (from 2 to 10); it may contain pearlescent additives or reflective pigments, thanks to which the lips seem to glow. In addition, lip gloss can vary in smell and color of the jelly-like mass.
    For natural or light makeup, gloss is used together with a contour pencil. When combined with lipstick, a lip liner enhances the longevity of your lip makeup. It is selected to match the color of lipstick or a little darker or lighter, which is fashionable now. Previously, it was customary to apply contour pencil before lipstick. Now makeup artists have come to the conclusion that you need to apply lipstick first, and then contour, so your lips look much more natural. Lip liners come in two types - a regular pencil in a wooden shell and a plastic shell with a retractable rod.
    Decorative eye products
    In decorative cosmetics, eye makeup is given the main importance. Today, almost 80% of young women in Europe prefer to wear makeup only on their eyes. Therefore, cosmetics manufacturers pay great attention to this group. To create a neat and long-lasting eye makeup, you should start by applying it to the eyelids. cream base for the eyelids, which are powdered on top, only after that use eye shadow. Not all companies produce cream base; it is included, for example, in the Lumene series. Depending from the composition of the eye shadow They are produced on a fat basis (close in composition to lipstick) and hard, produced only in compact forms (similar in composition to compact powder). The durability of makeup when using fat-based shadows is low, so they are almost never produced now. The range of eye shadows is divided into colors, shades and number of shades in packaging (1-, 2-, 3- and 4-color) and sets . According to the type of surface being created shadows are divided into matte, shiny and pearlescent. The choice in this case is determined by the direction of fashion and the tastes of the consumer. The eyeshadow package includes an applicator.
    To emphasize or change the shape of the eyes, products such as eyeliner, eyeliner and eyebrow pencil.
    Eye and eyebrow pencils differ only in color, with the colors of eye pencils being more varied.
    Mechanical eyeliner is similar to eyeliner, but the eyeliner rod extends automatically and sharpens at the same time. This is a more convenient tool compared to a traditional pencil.
    Liquid eyeliner is a new cosmetic product that allows you to very carefully emphasize the shape of your eyes, without putting pressure on your eyes. delicate skin century As a rule, liquid eyeliner contains useful additives. These are the most expensive cosmetic products.
    After eye shadow and pencil, the most important cosmetic product for the eyes is mascara. Makeup, even the most sophisticated one, will not be complete without carefully tinted eyelashes. Mascara is presented in a fairly wide range (Table 3).
    Hard mascara with a brush is almost never produced now, because... it is morally outdated. The modern assortment is represented by creamy mascara. Water resistance of mascara means that it does not form streaks when washed off with water or in the rain, but does not characterize its resistance to sweat and tears. On oily skin, mascara may also smudge. It is difficult to remove. When choosing mascara, you should take into account the shape, size, thickness of the eyelashes and select a product that will eliminate imperfections. To ensure safety, the product must be tightly closed and the applicators and brushes should be washed periodically, especially when using mascara with a spare can.
    Classification of the assortment of mascara
    Table 3
    SHAPE \* MERGEFORMAT

    by color
    black
    blue
    gray
    Brown, etc.

    Decorative nail products
    The range of this group is represented by varnishes of a wide variety of shades and auxiliary products - thinners And varnish solvents, base, fixative, quick drying agent And cuticle remover.
    Varnish – This is a solution of a film-forming polymer, including a plasticizer and a dye, in an organic solvent. Classic manicure is performed in several layers.
    Bottom varnish (base)- this is usually glitter varnish no dye or pigment. It forms an even surface on the nail varnish surface, on which they apply colored varnish, and as a result the varnish holds better. In addition, it is assumed that the base should prevent the possible harmful effects of the dye on the nail.
    Top varnish (fixer)- This is a shiny, hard and durable varnish that should increase the durability of the nail polish. The base for the varnish and the fixer can be produced in one bottle. The most diverse range of colored nail polishes. Typically, companies produce a range of colors - up to 70 shades, from light to dark. Ultra series – luminescent colors of youth direction; They should only be used with a base, as they can leave marks on the nails. yellow spots. Company "Intop S.L." produces chameleon varnish, the color of which changes in the sun; This is a version of youth club makeup.
    There are a number of varnishes with the characteristic “quick-drying”. These are varnishes whose drying time is 1 - 2 minutes, and the rest of the varnishes - over 2 and 10 minutes. These varnishes can be coated with a quick drying agent such as Sally Hansen.
    A manicure for problem nails involves using not a regular base, but a moisturizing base (Mary Kay) or a strengthening complex for nail care (Lumene series). Complete the nail makeup varnish fixers, for example the Nivea series, or protective varnish. The fixative is used after applying the varnish - it helps it dry, or used separately, instead of varnish. Protective varnish applied to colored varnish immediately after applying the varnish and for the next 2–3 days, which increases the durability of the colored varnish to two weeks.
    Nail polish remover must be active enough to dissolve the nitrocellulose and synthetic resins contained in the varnish, which are poorly soluble. Acetone, which used to be the basis of all nail polish removers, does this perfectly. However, together with the varnish, it removes the fatty components of the nail plate, which makes it very brittle. In addition, acetone is poorly preserved, evaporating even from a closed bottle. Acetone is widely used today, but more modern preparations are based on various esters: ethyl, butyl, amyl acetate or mixtures thereof, as well as toluene and some alcohols. They have less effect on the nail plate. However, they still degrease it, so emollients (fat additives, waxes, etc.) are added to nail polish remover.
    Developed for removing polish from particularly brittle and sensitive nails. creams And emulsions, in which waxes and fats are introduced in much larger quantities. Creams are recommended for brittle, peeling nails. They are a water-in-oil emulsion. The creams contain moisture-retaining (propylene glycol), strengthening ingredients, for example, low-molecular keratin derivatives, allantoin and a complex of vitamins. All this helps nails replenish lost fat and moisture, maintain shine and elasticity, and become stronger. Formaldehyde is added to creams intended for very soft nails.
    Film mask released in liquid form. It is a nutritional concentrate with a gelling agent. This liquid hardens quickly and forms a durable film, which must be removed after a few hours. Active substances and a complex of vitamins promote the regeneration of the nail plate, restoring its structure.
    Cuticle removers contain thioglycolic acid derivatives that can dissolve the keratin of the stratum corneum. To perform their function, an alkaline environment is required (pH 9 and above), therefore the basis of cuticle removers are solutions of sodium and potassium hydroxides. This method of cuticle removal has advantages over the traditional mechanical method, because he is bloodless. With a traditional manicure, nail clippers can damage the growth zone of the nail. However, the presence of potent substances in cuticle remover preparations is also unsafe, so it is necessary to strictly follow the instructions for their use.

    Reliability of cosmetics

    The reliability of cosmetic products is associated, first of all, with their shelf life and is determined expiration date, which can be from several months to 3 years. A longer shelf life of cosmetics should prompt careful attention to its composition, and above all to the type and amount of preservative.
    The shelf life of domestic cosmetics is determined by regulatory documents (Table 4). However, when using new, higher-quality preservatives, the shelf life increases, therefore, in the production of cosmetics, the practice has developed of establishing the shelf life by the manufacturer himself, which is based on the formulation of the product. The shelf life is confirmed by accelerated aging tests. Thus, it is customary for French manufacturers to keep the product at 40°C for a week and at minus 40°C for a second; If the properties of cosmetics have not changed, its shelf life is more than 30 months. Moreover, in the labeling according to EU Directives 76/768 this period is not indicated (only a period of less than 30 months is indicated). Russian rules require mandatory indication of the expiration date, so now foreign companies supplying cosmetic products to our country always indicate the expiration date.
    The French Association of Cosmetics Manufacturers pays great attention to product quality and believes that cosmetic products should be sold within 3 months. After their production. After all, the buyer can use the product for a long time, and the product has already been opened.

    Shelf life of decorative cosmetics
    Table 4

    During the aging process, the following may change: color, smell, taste (lipsticks). Thus, during storage of lipstick, chemical oxidation processes can occur, as a result of which a rancid smell appears, compactions are noted in the mass, and color changes.
    Security Properties cosmetic products are no less important than functional ones. The safety of cosmetics is influenced by the following factors:
    ü composition;
    ü quality of initial components;
    ü technological process of production;
    ü packaging and packing;
    ü conditions of storage and sale;
    ü conditions of consumption.
    At each stage of the life cycle, certain processes may occur in cosmetic products that cause changes that are dangerous to human health. Therefore, to check the safety of cosmetic products, a set of tests is carried out, almost identical to those in Europe. So it is in Russia. Cosmetic products made according to a new recipe are checked especially carefully. Test complex chemical indicators many cosmetic products include a definition pH value, acid number. All these indicators determine the impact of cosmetics on human skin. Cosmetics should not contain toxic elements– lead, mercury, arsenic.
    During production, packaging, use and storage, cosmetic products can be contaminated to varying degrees by microorganisms that can continue to develop in cosmetic product, which leads to its damage. Therefore, most cosmetic products are tested for microbiological safety. To suppress the development of colonies of microorganisms, inhibitors and preservatives are introduced into cosmetic products. At the production and packaging stage, it is necessary to comply with the requirements of sterility and asepsis. This can only be achieved with complete automation of the process. It is especially important to maintain the sterility of decorative eye cosmetics.
    Contamination by microorganisms can also occur at the stage of use of products, when the package is opened multiple times. This applies primarily to products packaged in wide-necked jars, because... a large surface of the product interacts with the environment and human hands. The best packaging is tubes, bottles with a small opening and a dispensing device. If you have already started using the product, then it is better to use it sooner, therefore, it is better to buy cosmetics in small packages. It is advisable to use products in large packaging not for personal purposes, but for professional use.
    All cosmetic products are a complex, multi-component system, which includes fatty, structure-forming, surfactants, dyes, special additives (antimicrobial, photoprotective, etc.), biologically active substances (vitamins), etc. Therefore, careful evaluation is necessary toxicological properties in order to ensure the release of high-quality products that are harmless to the consumer. The toxicological research program includes the study of both the ingredients of cosmetics and finished products, taking into account their purpose and conditions of use. Toxicology studies the effects of chemicals on the body of animals, establishes safe levels of exposure, and makes it possible to regulate the content of ingredients in the formulations of finished products. When conducting toxicological studies, the following is determined:
    1. Acute toxicity (in cosmetics they are allowed for use in at least hazard class 4, sometimes 3);
    2. Chronic toxicity (with long-term use)
    3. Skin-resorptive effect;
    4. Irritating effect;
    5. Sensitizing (allergenic) effect.
    Due to the high biological activity of cosmetics, the possibility of their penetration into the human body through the skin barrier and mucous membrane, as well as the subsequent effect on individual organs and systems, cosmetics must be subjected to clinical trials in order to establish their harmlessness to humans. This is all the more important because in everyday life cosmetics are used constantly and for a long time.
    When studying the safety of cosmetics, it should be taken into account that there is a real possibility of some of them getting into the respiratory tract (powder), on the mucous membrane of the eyes (mascara), and on the mucous membrane of the lips (lipsticks).
    Clinical trials on volunteer probants are carried out only if the results of chemical, microbiological and toxicological tests are positive. Safety assessment is based on the effect of the product on the skin and the general condition of a person. The issue of the safety of a cosmetic product for widespread use is resolved only after the positive results of all studies.
    Characteristics of quality indicators of decorative cosmetics
    The range of quality indicators for decorative cosmetics products is determined not only by their purpose, but also by their composition. Requirements for the quality of lipsticks, gloss, lip balms, eye shadows, blush and pencils for lips, eyelids, eyebrows made on a fat basis are determined by GOST 28767 - 90.
    The most important components of such products are wax (beeswax, carnauba), which imparts plasticity, durability, and the ability not to spread, and oils (castor, cocoa butter, etc.), which act as softening components and dye solvents. Vitamins E, A, ceramides, extracts, and sunscreen substances are added as useful additives.
    The main physical and chemical indicators of such goods are dropping point, and for lipsticks - acidic And carbonyl numbers (Table 5). The drip temperature of decorative products must be optimal. At a low dropping temperature, cosmetics “drip” from the face, lips, eyelids, and at a high temperature, they are poorly applied to the skin and have difficulty covering it. The quality of the fatty ingredients of animal and plant origin used is characterized by carbonyl and acid numbers. Spoiled fatty components give lipstick a bitter taste, lumpyness, and rancid odor.

    Table 5
    Physico-chemical indicators of fat-based decorative products

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    Decorative cosmetics, as the art of beautifying oneself, has been known since the times of Ancient Egypt. Hair removal tweezers and tattoo kits were found in the excavations. Unfortunately, lead sulfide blush, a powder based on lead white (lead oxide), was poisonous and caused hair loss and poisoning in the Middle Ages. Only in the 19th century. Lead oxide was replaced with zinc oxide. Lipsticks were made from natural colored wax - cochineal. Currently, the safety of decorative cosmetics is ensured by control by the State Sanitary and Epidemiological Inspectorate of Russia (mandatory hygienic conclusion).

    Decorative cosmetics, based on the main types of raw materials used for their production, are divided into fat-based, powder and compact products. Fat-based cosmetics include lipsticks, gloss and lip balms, blush, eye shadow, pencils for eyelids, lips, eyebrows and other products. They are made from a mixture of synthetic and natural products: fats, waxes, oils, biologically active substances with the addition of dyes and pigments. Powdered and compact decorative cosmetics products - powder, dry blush, compact eye shadow - are powdery flavored mixtures of mineral and organic substances.

    Fat-based decorative cosmetics. Lipsticks are traditionally produced in the form of thin rods enclosed in a plastic retractable housing. Depending on the purpose, lipsticks are hygienic (colorless or lightly colored), protective (for example, from exposure to ultraviolet rays) and tonal - for coloring lips. Hygienic lipsticks can be used by both men and women; special hygienic lipsticks for children with berry flavor are also produced. Hygienic lipsticks have healing properties, they contain moisturizing and wound-healing preparations - vinylin, propolis, azulene (gives the lipstick a greenish tint), bisabolol, vitamins E, K, avocado oil.

    In terms of consistency, lipsticks can be hard (stick, pencil) or creamy, packaged in jars or tubes with a brush. Based on the degree of fat content of the stroke, lipsticks are divided into bold, semi-bold and dry. The fat content of lipstick is related to its formulation and the melting point of the waxes included in the composition. Waxes are esters of higher fatty acids and monohydric higher alcohols. Cerotinic acid, a component of many waxes, contains a mixture of acids with the number of carbon atoms from 24 to 28, cocceryl alcohol (part of cochineal) contains 34 carbon atoms in the chain. Natural waxes are found on the surface of many fruits and plants: candelilla wax (cacti of Mexico), carnauba wax (leaves of the palm Copernicia carifera). The most common lipstick products are bleached beeswax and synthetic waxes. According to GOST 28767-90 “Fat-based decorative cosmetics products. General technical conditions" - the dropping point (close to the melting point) of lipsticks should be 55-80 ° C, which ensures the strength of the lipstick rod and the quality of the smear.

    The widest range is foundation lipstick, produced in a wide range of tones and shades - from light pink, light carrot to dark red, lilac, brown, matte and with a pearlescent effect. The modern color scheme includes lipsticks in metallic shades (gold, silver, lead), as well as unusual green and blue colors, etc.

    Based on color fastness, foundation lipstick is divided into three types - simple, traditional (stays on the lips for 3-4 hours); stable (5-6 hours) and ultra-resistant (super-resistant), retaining its color on the lips for more than 6-7 hours and leaving a minimal mark. Foundation lipstick contains mineral (natural origin) and organic pigments, which provide coverage for the lipstick, and organic dyes. Dyes are allowed to be included in lipsticks no more than 3-3.5%, while the total content of dyes and pigments in lipstick is 20%. The color stability of modern super-resistant lipsticks is achieved not by increasing the amount of dyes, but by reducing them - by introducing oligomeric organosilicon compounds that encapsulate pigments and dyes, create a special structure with waxes and protect lips from direct contact with dyes.

    When assessing the quality of lipsticks, the appearance is determined - the surface of the rod should be flat, smooth, uniformly and uniformly colored, without bubbles and cracks, the smell is pleasant, the stroke is even, uniform, without grains. According to hygienic and toxicological indicators, the acid number is regulated - no more than 15, the absence of lead, arsenic and mercury compounds; microbiological safety, lack allergic reactions.

    Packaging, labeling, storage. Lipsticks are packaged in metal, plastic or combined pencil cases, and the lipstick must be firmly held inside the pencil case, the slider must move freely, and when moving back, it must not cut off the edge of the lipstick. Lipsticks are produced in cases (folding thin cardboard, transparent plastic) and without them, as well as in sets with other cosmetic products. The lipstick label (at the bottom of the pencil case) indicates the number and name of the tone, the trademark or name of the manufacturer, and the date of manufacture - on the case. Pencil cases with lipstick are combined into group packaging of no more than 50 pieces in folding boxes made of cardboard or thick paper and sealed with a parcel post. Group packaging of 40 pieces is placed in corrugated cardboard boxes and sealed with one or two parcels.

    Lipsticks are stored in dry, ventilated areas with a relative air humidity of no more than 70% at a temperature of 0 to 25 °C. The guaranteed shelf life of domestic lipstick is 18 months, imported - at least 3 years.

    Decorative cosmetics are powdery and compact. Powder is a flavored, finely ground mixture of amorphous talc, zinc oxide, zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, starch, rice or maize flour (in varying proportions) and natural mineral pigments. The powder should absorb skin secretions, eliminate shine, be easy to apply to the skin and have sufficient covering power to mask skin defects.

    Based on their state of aggregation, they distinguish between loose powder, compact powder, liquid powder, and cream powder. By skin type - for normal; oily and dry. By tone - white, pink, Rachel (pink-yellow), light and dark, peach, tan (the tone can be indicated by a number). Based on the degree of grinding of the components, loose powder is divided into groups “extra” (extra fine grinding) and group 1. The content of water and volatile components in powdered powders is 2%, the mass fraction of zinc stearate is not more than 20%.

    In terms of the content of volatile components, compact products differ from loose products, they contain more of them - 7%, the mass fraction of zinc stearate is 11%; they are smaller in volume and have a higher density. Compact powder differs from loose powder in that it has the ability to be applied in a light layer to the skin, but not crumble. Starch, dextrin, and tragacanth (dried crushed juice of plants from the genus Astragalus) are used as a binder. The correct proportion of powder substances and binder ensures the degree of compactness of the powder - dense, but not hard; unable to “salt” on the surface.

    This also applies to other compact products - blush, eye shadow, etc. Compact eyeshadows and blushes differ from powders in the tone and color of pigments and dyes, with a predominance of cold tones - green and blue, lilac, lilac, etc.

    The quality of compactness of powder, blush, and eye shadow is checked by hitting a tray with a compact product on a hard surface covered with a layer of linoleum, dropping it 3 times from a height of 20 cm - the products should not crack.

    Powdered powder is packaged in cardboard, plastic or combination boxes; the top of the box must be covered with a polymer film to prevent it from scattering during transportation.

    Compact powders and other products are packaged in metal or plastic trays (palettes), which are inserted into powder compacts and supplemented with an insert (eyeshadow applicators) for applying powder. A polymer film spacer is placed between the powder layer and the liner.

    Powdered and compact products of decorative cosmetics should be stored in dry warehouses at a temperature not lower than 0 ° C and not higher than plus 25 ° C with a relative humidity not higher than 70%. The guaranteed shelf life of the products is 18 months from the date of manufacture.

    Mascara. Mascara has traditionally been produced in the form of a solid bar with an applicator brush. Currently, the most widespread type is liquid emulsion mascara in a can with a screw-on brush cap. This mascara has higher consumer properties, and most importantly, ease of use.

    Liquid emulsion mascara is a suspension of finely ground coloring pigments in an emulsion medium containing substances that leave a hydrophobic, poorly water-soluble colored film on the eyelashes. The emulsion contains fatty components, lanolin derivatives, vegetable waxes, film-forming polymers, emulsifiers, and emulsion stabilizers. To protect the mucous membrane of the eyes, anti-inflammatory bioactive drugs are introduced into mascara - azulene, propolis, provitamins, rose oil and others. Mascara is available in various colors - black, green, brown, blue, blue, purple, etc.

    Mascara can be regular and water-resistant; the latter contains a large number of water repellents and waxes that dissolve only in special liquids for removing oily makeup or using soap. To increase the volume of eyelashes and lengthen them, 3-4% of thin crushed polymer (nylon) fibers are introduced into emulsion mascaras.

    Packaging, transportation and storage of mascara corresponds to emulsion creams.

    Decorative cosmetics for nails. Decorative cosmetics for nails are traditionally manicure varnishes and enamels. Nail polish is a colorless or colored transparent solution of a mixture of polymer film-forming agents in organic solvents. After drying, the varnish leaves a transparent film on the nails. Nail enamel (varnish paste) is a colored opaque (opaque) suspension of pigments in varnish. After drying, the enamel leaves an opaque colored film on the nails.

    Nail enamels contain finely dispersed mineral pigments, oxides of various metals, pearlescent additives (guanine), finely ground variegated inclusions of “gold” or “silver” (aluminum particles about 0.1 mm in size), mica particles and other decorative additives depending on fashion . The color range of enamels varies from light pink, red, coral, lingonberry to dark purple, blue, green and black shades.

    Film-forming polymers in varnishes and enamels (hereinafter referred to as varnishes) are cellulose nitrate and polymer resins - polyester, styrene-acrylate copolymers, which improve the structure of the film, increase gloss, hardness and adhesion (joint strength) to the surface of the nail. To reduce the fragility of the film, high-molecular plasticizer oils are introduced into the varnish composition, for example, castor oil, dibutyl phthalate. Organic solvents in varnishes serve to improve dispersion, reduce viscosity and form a high-quality film layer. Solvents are selected so that they differ in boiling (evaporation) temperature, for example, ethyl acetate 77.1 °C, butyl acetate 126.5 °C, ethyl alcohol 78.5 °C, isopropyl alcohol 82.4 °C. The dry residue content in varnishes is 12-18%. The varnish label (usually on the folding case) should contain information about the content of volatile components. It is prohibited to use toluene and formaldehyde in varnishes. Solvents can cause irritation or allergies, but the film of dried varnish itself is harmless.

    Manicure varnish should evenly cover the nails with a stable film, which should remain unchanged on the nails for as long as possible. Traditional varnishes must dry at a certain speed: fairly quickly, but not instantly, as this can cause streaks to form on the surface. When the film has dried, it should remain elastic so as not to peel off or crack when the nails are deformed. Varnish films must be resistant to water, as well as cleaning agents, detergents and rinsing agents.

    Quality indicators of manicure varnishes and enamels are regulated by PCT 135-76. The drying time of a double layer of varnish at a temperature of 20 ° C should be no more than 2.5 minutes. Currently, enamels are produced with high hiding power and drying speed of 1-2 minutes.

    Manicure varnishes are packaged in glass bottles of various shapes with a volume of 15 ml (1/2 fl.oz.) with a screw-cut cap and an insert brush. Some varnishes have glass or metal ball for ease of mixing the composition. Bottles of varnish are produced in folding cardboard cases and without it.

    The modern range of imported decorative cosmetics for nails includes protective compositions for nails with protein, gelatin and calcium salts, products for strengthening nails and restoring nail plates, a base for varnish that smooths out unevenness on the nail plates, etc.

    Nail polish removers are included in the range of nail care products. The liquids contain a mixture of solvents - acetone, amyl acetate, isopropyl alcohol with the addition of 3% castor oil. In the latest developments of nail polish removers, acetone is eliminated and vitamins A and E are introduced.

    Packaging, labeling, and transportation correspond to those described in the section on perfume liquids. Storage of manicure varnishes at a temperature not lower than plus 5 ° C and not higher than 25 ° C. Guaranteed shelf life is 12 months from the date of manufacture.

    Decorative cosmetics It is used to use cosmetics to hide some skin defects or to advantageously emphasize certain facial features.

    Basic decorative cosmetics: powder, lipstick, blush, hair dyes, nail polish, hair clips, wigs, etc.

    Decorative cosmetics are used taking into account the woman’s age, her appearance, the time and place where she is (evening, day, work, celebration). Cosmetics should not be flashy and vulgar; a woman cannot be made up like a doll. In addition, decorative cosmetics should not hide natural beauty skin, hair, eyes, so a girl of 17-18 years old should not get too carried away with them. Lightly powdering the face, softening the lips with colorless lipstick, lightly tinting the eyelashes (if they are significantly lighter than the hair) and a light tone of nail polish on special occasions are acceptable for her. Day makeup should be almost invisible; in the evening more are acceptable bright shades lipstick, powder, etc. Light colors are usually more suitable for blondes, dark ones for brunettes, and pastel colors for women over 50 years old.

    Face touch-up carried out in a certain sequence: first, apply day cream to a clean face, removing its excess with a cosmetic napkin after 3-5 minutes, then use foundation and powder to give the skin a certain tone. Before applying foundation or powder, you can lightly tint your cheeks with blush.

    Powder color selected depending on color, hair, season, etc.

    More for a dark brunette suitable color nutty, blonde - light pink, nude. Powder of a darker shade will help smooth out some skin imperfections. The neck should be powdered in the same tone as the face. The powder should be slightly lighter than the foundation. Powdered powder is applied to the skin in a thin layer with a cotton swab or puff. Room powder is easy to store and is intended for any skin type, while liquid foundation powders are for oily skin, and cream powders (for example, Tonak) and foundations (Zheme, Kolorit) are for dry skin .

    Tinting eyebrows, you should give them a certain shape with light stroke movements in the direction of hair growth. At the same time, blondes or women with fair skin It is better to use brown; for women with dark hair and a dark complexion - a black pencil.

    Eyebrow pencils contain beeswax, perfume oil, paraffin and dyes - soot, pigments, etc. Coloring eyebrows with a pencil is not permanent. More permanent tinting of eyebrows and eyelashes is done in a beauty salon: here the eyebrows can be shaped to best suit the facial features. With this idea, you should visit the beauty salon once every 2-3 weeks.

    Eyes- the most expressive honor of the face, here it is necessary to show special care in applying makeup. Eye shadow is applied to the skin of the upper eyelid, moving to the skin under the eyebrows in a very thin layer. You should choose the right shade of shadows - it should be in harmony with the color of your skin, eyes, and clothes. Usually combined, applying shadows of a dark shade closer to the lash line, and the lightest shade - under the eyebrows. After applying shadows with a contour pencil, you can emphasize the line of the eyes (visually increases the size of the eyes, gives them an almond shape, etc.).

    Then paint eyelashes. Mascara is applied to dry eyelashes in the direction from the eyelid to the edge of the eyelashes in 2-3 layers (each layer must be allowed to dry).

    Finally apply lipstick. The color of lipstick is selected taking into account age, the color scheme of the toilet, eye color, hair color, lighting (daytime, evening) and even the color of nail polish. Every woman should have several shades of lipstick and choose the most suitable one for a particular occasion.

    Blondes with fair skin are more suited to light lipstick colors, brunettes - dark ones.

    Women under 20-25 years old should avoid lipstick, as it makes them fade natural color lips, beautiful in itself.

    If your lips are cracked, especially in winter, chapped, or dry, you can use colorless hygienic lipstick.

    With age, the color of the lips fades, they may take on a bluish tint or become too pale. Lipstick helps to hide these imperfections: it can also visually change the shape of the lips if, for example, they are too thin or wide.

    First, the desired contours of the lips are outlined with a contour pencil (with the mouth closed), but the deviation beyond the natural border should not exceed 1 mm. Then carefully, apply lipstick in an even layer (with the mouth half open), tinting the upper lip to the corner of the mouth, and evenly rounding the lower lip. Sometimes lipstick is applied first, then the lips are outlined with a contour pencil, which should be slightly darker than the lipstick. Excess lipstick is removed by pressing a piece of paper napkin with your lips for a few seconds.

    At night, remove all paint from the face using lotion or cream, and then wash it. If you need to replace daytime makeup with evening makeup, you should not intensify the first one: remove it completely, lubricate the skin with a nourishing cream or make some kind of nourishing mask, after which the makeup is applied again.

    In his book “Goodbye to Routine,” the famous Canadian fashion designer Paul Langille writes: “A woman should always show creative curiosity in relation to her appearance. She needs to combine classics with fashionable and even somewhat extravagant elements. There is no need to be afraid to completely reconsider your passions and established habits, because nothing is as depressing as conservatism. Decide one day to radically change your appearance, and your courage will be rewarded. Those around you will see in you what they only guessed about, your life partner will discover you anew, and a pleasant confidence in your own abilities will appear.

    In this book, Paul Langille gives a makeup color set for different types women, but this set should not be a dogma, but should guide a woman in choosing a direction and color scheme. Your feminine instincts and imagination will tell you possible variations and deviations.


    Find something else interesting:

    The word "cosmetics" comes from the Greek phrase "the art of decoration." At one time, this concept meant an entire science that studied ways to change one’s appearance or maintain its attractiveness.

    Speaking about ordinary cosmetics, we mean face and body creams, toothpaste, shower gels, caring lotions. Interestingly, the word “decor” is also translated as “decoration”. Accordingly, decorative cosmetics are created so that any woman can turn herself into a beauty.

    So, decorative cosmetics include products with which you can transform yourself - a little or radically. Decorative cosmetics come in several types. We will talk about the main ones.

    Concealer

    Just imagine that foundation appeared several thousand years ago. Egyptians, Romans, and Greeks actively used it to disguise minor imperfections. Only, unlike modern products, their arsenal included chalk and lead white, and the first foundation appeared only at the beginning of the 20th century. You have the opportunity to choose between light textures and thicker ones, creamy or dry, mattifying and giving a barely noticeable tan.

    We are no longer talking about what is for small pimples or dark circles There is a concealer, for a base for makeup - BB cream, for a base for professional makeup for photography - foundation, and for every day – cushion and stick. The basis of modern foundations are silicone oils, pigments, moisturizing components, and you can also find products with the addition of salicylic acid which helps get rid of acne.

    Powder is a mixture of mineral and organic substances. It mattifies the skin, hides redness, protects the skin from dust and dirt from the external environment, and also fixes makeup. There are several types of powder.

    • Loose powder has this texture due to the small particles that make it up. With its help you can create velvety skin without the mask effect. As a rule, it is with translucent loose powder on top of foundation that you complete your makeup. It must be applied with a large fluffy brush. Be sure to shake off excess before applying.
    • Compact powder can be either light in texture or dense. This powder is a great option to put in your bag and carry with you. It is small, and comes with a mirror and a sponge or brush. A powder puff and sponge will give a denser finish, while a brush will give a more transparent finish.
    • Cream powder has become popular relatively recently. It combines the functions of powder and foundation: mattifies and corrects at the same time. Ideal for quick makeup.
    • Transparent powder is designed to clean up greasy shine and fix makeup. Place it on a brush or puff and powder the T-zone.

    Shimmering particles are often added to the powder, which are visible on the skin only at a certain angle of incidence of light.

    A slight blush indicates that the woman is healthy. That's why it attracts the opposite sex so much. Women in Ancient Egypt crushed mulberries and rubbed them into their cheeks, and in Ancient Greece, blush was created from beets or strawberries. The Queen of France, Catherine de Medici, was a lover of a beautiful blush, and the image of a Russian beauty is not complete without glowing red cheeks.

    Nowadays, you can give your face a healthy look in an endless number of ways. There are loose, roll-on, liquid, cream and gel blush, as well as compact and baked ones. Also, if you forgot your blush at home, you can replace it with pink gloss or lipstick, pink eye shadow or even lip liner. Also, modern girls often prefer tints to blush, which we wrote in more detail in.

    Eyeshadow, eyeliner and mascara

    Eye makeup is the most complex and most interesting technique. Having mastered it, you can visually enlarge your eyes or give them additional expressiveness.

    • There are countless shades of eye shadow for any type and color of eyes. You can also use the texture that suits you: dry or.
    • Eyeliner and mascara are the products that usually complement eye makeup. With a pencil you can outline the contour of the eyes, draw the space between eyelashes, and also make arrows.
    • Mascara is something most girls don’t go out without. Sometimes just mascara and gloss are enough to do express makeup. It’s not for nothing that they say that a woman can conquer with just one look.

    Eyebrow pencil and shadow

    Thick eyebrows are the most popular trend of our time. Refined ladies of the twentieth century with string eyebrows would be horrified at the sight of Cara Delevingne. But modern beauties boldly accepted this fashion - and did not regret it.

    In order to draw or highlight eyebrows, girls use eyebrow pencil, eyebrow gel, eyebrow shadow and even. And also a comb - it combs and shades. In addition, it can be used to apply various products, for example, a transparent fixative gel.

    Lipstick

    The skin of the lips is very sensitive, so it is important to choose products from trusted manufacturers and follow the basic rules:

    • Before applying lipstick, moisten your lips with balm and wait 2-3 minutes until it is absorbed.
    • Depending on the main function, moisturizing, nourishing, and hygienic lipsticks are distinguished.
    • The finish of the lipstick can be matte, glossy, satin, dense, translucent.
    • There are lipsticks that increase volume, visually whiten teeth, give lips shine, and hide imperfections. Lipstick can be applied with a brush, sponge or finger.

    To ensure that the lipstick does not smudge and also lasts longer before application, outline the contour of your lips with a pencil of the same color, and then paint your lips completely with it (you can read about what else to do to prolong the durability of the lipstick). Complete your lip makeup by dusting them with translucent powder with shimmer.

    The range is divided depending on the intended purpose into four groups: products for the face, lips, eyes and nails.

    General classification feature: Color (tone), the range of which depends on the type of cosmetics and fashion trends.

    By the presence of gloss: presence or absence (matte surface)

    Decorative cosmetics - purpose:

    For face:

    · Makeup base

    · Concealer

    · Cream powder

    · Masking pencil

    · Outline pencil

    · Lip gloss

    · Lipstick

    For eyes:

    · Eyeliner

    · Eyeliner

    · Mascara

    For nails:

    · Varnish base

    · Varnish fixer

    · Medium for drying varnish

    · Nail polish remover

    · Cuticle remover

    Raw materials used for the production of decorative cosmetics divided into main and auxiliary, including packaging materials.

    The difference between main and auxiliary raw materials lies in the degree of their impact on the formation of quality.

    Main raw materials: Fats, oils, fat-like components; Waxes; Hydrocarbons; Higher fatty acids and alcohols; Surfactants; Emulsifiers and emulsifying mixtures; Solubilizers; Abrasives and fillers; Gelling agents; preservatives; Sulfur-containing drugs; Film-forming substances.

    The range of quality indicators for decorative cosmetics products is determined not only by their purpose, but also by their composition. Requirements for the quality of lipsticks, gloss, lip balms, eye shadows, blush and pencils for lips, eyelids, eyebrows made on a fat basis are determined by GOST 28767 - 90.

    Decorative cosmetics for the eyes, types, composition features.

    In decorative cosmetics, eye makeup is given the main importance. To create a neat and long-lasting eye makeup, you should start by applying it to the eyelids. cream base for the eyelids, which are powdered on top, only after that use eye shadow. Not all companies produce cream base; it is included, for example, in the Lumene series. Depending from the composition of the eye shadow They are produced on a fat basis (close in composition to lipstick) and hard, produced only in compact forms (similar in composition to compact powder). The durability of makeup when using fat-based shadows is low, so they are almost never produced now. The range of eye shadows is divided into colors, shades and number of shades in packaging (1-, 2-, 3- and 4-color) and sets . According to the type of surface being created shadows are divided into matte, shiny and pearlescent. The choice in this case is determined by the direction of fashion and the tastes of the consumer. The eyeshadow package includes an applicator.

    To emphasize or change the shape of the eyes, products such as eyeliner, eyeliner and eyebrow pencil.

    Eye and eyebrow pencils differ only in color, with the colors of eye pencils being more varied.

    Mechanical eyeliner is a product similar to eyeliner, but the eyeliner rod extends automatically and sharpens at the same time. This is a more convenient tool compared to a traditional pencil.

    Liquid eyeliner is a new cosmetic product that allows you to very carefully emphasize the shape of your eyes, without putting pressure on the delicate skin of your eyelids. As a rule, liquid eyeliner contains useful additives. These are the most expensive cosmetic products.

    After eye shadow and pencil, the most important cosmetic product for the eyes is mascara. Makeup, even the most sophisticated one, will not be complete without carefully tinted eyelashes. Mascara is presented in a fairly wide range. Hard mascara with a brush is almost never produced now, because... it is morally outdated. The modern assortment is represented by creamy mascara. Water resistance of mascara means that it does not form streaks when washed off with water or in the rain, but does not characterize its resistance to sweat and tears. On oily skin, mascara may also smudge. It is difficult to remove. When choosing mascara, you should take into account the shape, size, thickness of the eyelashes and select a product that will eliminate imperfections.

    Application of decorative cosmetics

    The use of various cosmetics to decorate the appearance is a certain art. Skillfully applied decorative cosmetics can highlight the beauty of the face and hide certain imperfections. When choosing decorative cosmetics, you need to take into account the color of skin, hair, eyes, face shape, age, time and location of the person (a gala evening or lunch, everyday work, etc.)

    Decorative cosmetics occupy the largest share in the production of cosmetic products. These are powders (powdered and pressed), pencils for eyebrows, eyelids and eyelashes, lipsticks, blush, foundation powders, makeup, hair dyes, eyebrows, eyelashes, nail polishes, hair, etc. All types of these cosmetics Products are available in different colors and shades.

    There are two types of face painting: simple and complex. Simple tinting is usually used for oval-shaped faces with regular features. The purpose of this tinting is to give the face freshness and expressiveness. But the oval face can be elongated, triangular shape(face tapering downwards or upwards), as well as round and quadrangular shapes. Along with the oval of the face, it is necessary to take into account its individual parts - forehead (large, small, narrow, wide), eyebrows (horizontal, round, long, short), nose (large, small, long, humpbacked, saddle-shaped), chin (round, beveled). Violation of facial proportions requires more complex tinting. Using paints of different colors and tones, you can give your face a more regular - oval - shape. As you know, light colors increase volume and make parts of the face more prominent.

    Classification of decorative cosmetics

    Dark tones, on the contrary, hide excessive volume and protrusion of parts of the face. Using light and dark foundation powders, the face is given a more correct shape. For example, with a round or quadrangular face shape, a lighter tone is applied to the central part of the face, and a darker tone to the cheekbones and jaw parts of the face. For an elongated face, a light tone is applied to the cheeks, jaw and temple areas; Apply skin-colored cream-powder to the rest of the face. Start tinting your face by cleansing the skin; for this purpose, for dry skin it is better to use lotions like “Milk” or vegetable oil; Oily skin is cleaned with soap and water or one of the lotions for oily skin. It is recommended to cleanse your face in a certain order: remove lipstick, remove paint from your eyelids and eyelashes, and then cleanse the rest of your face. Then one of the liquid creams is applied to the face - the basis for the subsequent application of foundation or powder. They tint their cheeks and powder their face. They give shape and design to the eyebrows, and tint the eyelids. Lips are painted last.

    Coloring your lips should start with choosing your lipstick. Every woman is recommended to have several shades of lipsticks, as well as a lighter contour pencil, which is used to initially shape the lips. It should be remembered that the upper lip should be tinted up to the corners of the mouth, and the lower lip can be rounder and fuller, going slightly beyond the natural border. When applying lip contour, it is more convenient for the mouth to be closed, but when applying lipstick, the mouth is slightly open; finally, pressing a strip of paper or a piece of bandage with your lips, remove excess lipstick. You can also use another method of coloring your lips: first paint with lipstick, and then outline their borders with a contour pencil.

    The color of lipstick should match the color of nail polish and blush

    When tinting your face, you should always remember your age. For girls 18-19 years old, only light powdering of the face is recommended. At 20-29 years old, light colors are recommended for blondes, and dark colors for brunettes. Women over 50 years old are better off using pastel colors.

    Evening makeup should not be used during the day, especially for older women. It allows for a wider use of decorative cosmetics and its brighter colors. Evening makeup products include face tone various shades. By the way, instead of tone, cream powder or compact powder. The tone covers the entire face, with the exception of the skin of the eyelids.

    After toning the face, apply blush. For dry and normal skin, it is better to use oily or emulsion blush; for oily skin, it is better to use liquid or dry blush. Blush is applied in a thin layer to the upper outer part of the cheeks and temples. You should always remember that blush and tone make your face look much older.

    When tinting your eyelids, it is recommended to use special pencils of different colors: black, brown, gray, green or blue. The upper eyelids can be shaded with special tint creams. The color of pencils and tint creams should be selected in accordance with eye color, skin tone and hair color. You should use mascara in moderation and choose its color in a certain range.

    Evening makeup should not be an update to daytime makeup or an addition to it. It is always reapplied to previously cleansed skin.

    The most popular brands of decorative cosmetics

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    Decorative cosmetics are a must in any woman’s makeup bag. Products in this category include foundation, eye shadow, powder, lipstick, mascara, blush, etc. In short, everything that allows the fair half of humanity to emphasize their natural beauty and become even more irresistible.

    The category of decorative cosmetics includes the entire range of special products designed to improve the appearance and disguise skin imperfections. These are cosmetics for the face, eyes, lips and nails. Decorative cosmetics are designed to highlight and highlight individual facial features, make some defects less noticeable, and thereby present a person’s appearance in the most advantageous way.

    There are many cosmetic brands on the market and every woman has her own favorite brand that she uses constantly. Often, among the products of one cosmetic company, a woman likes lipstick, another likes foundation, and a third likes mascara. The main selection criteria are price, quality of cosmetics, richness of the color palette, ease of use and popularity of the brand.

    The products of famous brands have one peculiarity: when setting the price of a product, 50% to 70% of the final cost is made up of the prestige of the brand and the company’s costs for research and development. The quality of some brands is really quite high and is worth paying 20-30% more than the product should cost. But you certainly shouldn’t chase a brand just because it’s fashionable and popular. The main consumer properties of decorative cosmetics are appearance, color, smell, ease of application and durability. Let these criteria be the main ones when choosing mascara or lipstick, and not the degree of prestige of the brand and the price.

    In addition, additional requirements are imposed on various decorative cosmetics products.

    The foundation should have a uniform consistency, without lumps or clots. The skin coverage should be even and its color natural. The cream should not clog skin pores and at the same time have a high masking effect.

    Compact powder and solid blush should be finely ground, well pressed, without grains or foreign inclusions. The decorative product should not crumble or break when pressed.

    Lipstick must have nice smell and texture, easy to apply, lie flat, moisturize lips and last a long time. The rod must be durable and not melt in the warm season.

    Fat shadows and pencils for eyes and lips should not flow, melt or soften, and dry shadows and mascara should not roll and crumble.

    Nail polish should be uniform, of medium thickness, without clots or impurities. The product should be easy to apply to nails, dry quickly and be durable.

    Top 20 most popular brands of decorative cosmetics

    L'Oreal (L'Oreal), France

    The cosmetics concern L’Oreal is rightfully considered the most influential and oldest company in the world, which has united under its wing such popular brands as Maybelline, Garnier, Lancome, L’Oréal, Cacharel and Vichy. The L’Oreal brand offers consumers a wide range of high-quality decorative cosmetics and has firmly held the position of undisputed leader in the mass market segment for many decades in a row.

    Maybelline (Maybeline), USA

    New York is the birthplace of the Maybelline brand, and its first product was a mascara made from Vaseline and coal dust by pharmacist Thomas Williams for his sister Maybelle. This is how a cosmetics brand appeared in 1915, which later became one of the most popular brands of the century. In 1996, the L'Oreal concern bought Maybelline, which led to a merger of technologies and opened up new opportunities to strengthen the position of the famous brand. Today the Maybelline New York brand presents customers with a full range of products for decorative makeup and is a leader in retail sales worldwide.

    Max Factor (Max Factor), USA

    Continuing to be the brand of choice for many makeup artists, Max Factor has a reputation for being a creative leader, embracing fashion trends and striking a harmonious balance between modern technology and timeless classics. Max Factor cosmetics have become indispensable for millions of customers, as they are suitable for any appearance and allow you to get the effect of professional makeup at home. The color range of decorative products from the Max Factor brand is developed based on the principles of “color harmony” and guarantees magnificent makeup.

    Faberlic (Faberlic), Russia – France

    Faberlic cosmetics company has high-tech production with strict quality control. She pays great attention to the latest achievements of science in the field of cosmetology and uses them for her products, which helps to replenish the range and update existing lines of cosmetics. Thanks to the excellent quality of its products, the Faberlic brand has earned an excellent reputation and gained many fans.

    Bourjois (Bourgeois), France

    As one of the oldest cosmetic brands, Bourjois is dynamic and remains an expert in the field of beauty and fashion. Bourjois cosmetics combine a pleasant texture, high durability and attractive packaging. All brand products are developed in scientific laboratories and manufactured in their own factories located in France, which ensures their complete dermatological and ophthalmological safety.

    Oriflame (Oriflame), Sweden

    Oriflame cosmetics combine excellent quality, a large assortment and an affordable price. All Oriflame brand cosmetics undergo strict testing and dermatological testing. The main concept of the company is to create products of excellent quality at low prices, which are presented in catalogs and sold through direct sales.

    Pupa (Pupa), Italy

    The Pupa brand is a bold and rich palette of colors in bright red packaging. Pupa cosmetics are developed specifically for each category of women and invariably please with their high quality. Thanks to the fusion of a dynamic development concept and modern technology, the Pupa brand follows fashion trends and always remains in trend.

    Yves Saint Laurent (Yves Saint Laurent), France

    Yves Saint Laurent decorative cosmetics harmoniously combine sexuality and aristocratic restraint. Fashionable shades, delicate textures and a wide palette of colors are inherent in all products of the brand. Products of excellent quality, coupled with the latest developments from scientific laboratories, are enclosed in elegant packaging and instantly find their place in new collections.

    Avon (Avon), USA

    The Avon company offers customers bright, colorful catalogs and a large assortment of decorative cosmetics at affordable prices in the network marketing segment. The brand's products are addressed to various age categories, are distinguished by their diversity, stylish design and excellent quality, which is achieved due to the company's research center.

    Bell, Poland

    The Bell brand is a well-known decorative cosmetics brand in many countries, which, thanks to its extensive color palette, rich assortment and excellent quality of products, has managed to achieve love and recognition not only among customers in Poland, but also far beyond its borders. Bell cosmetics meet strict standards, take into account fashion trends and are able to satisfy the needs of all age categories.

    Lancome (Lancome), France

    All Lancome brand products are distinguished by impeccable quality and unsurpassed aroma. Lancome's logo is a rose flower, symbolizing beauty, grace and sensuality. The exclusivity of Lancome products is emphasized by a whole galaxy of celebrities who represented the brand in different periods: Isabella Rossellini, Penelope Cruz, Kate Winslet, Juliette Binoche, Anne Hattaway, Julia Roberts, etc. Lancome produces a full range of decorative cosmetics, which is regularly updated with new collections.

    Givenchy (Givenchy), France

    Fans of Givenchy brand decorative cosmetics prefer its exquisite variety, unique color palette, delicate texture and excellent quality.

    Mascara with a new brush shape and silky texture lipstick have gained great popularity among women. These and other innovative achievements were made possible thanks to the special research center owned by the Givenchy brand, in which new formulas for cosmetics are developed and lines of decorative cosmetics are created.

    Chanel (Chanel), France

    Chanel decorative cosmetics, along with excellent aesthetic characteristics, provide gentle care for the skin and is completely hypoallergenic. Chanel brand cosmetics, presented in a rich palette of colors, help a woman look beautiful and at the same time take care of her health. Chanel helps to create a stylish and elegant image of a lady with good taste. Chanel brand products include luminous Ruban Perle blush, multi-effect shadows, super-long-lasting Rouge Hydrabase lipstick, shining Glossimer lip gloss and red lipstick, which has long become a classic.

    Helena Rubinstein (Helena Rubinstein), USA

    All Helena Rubinstein brand products are of impeccable quality, provide skin care and correspond to modern makeup trends. Such a great popularity of Helena Rubinstein cosmetics is associated with regularly conducted serious laboratory tests that guarantee excellent quality of products and their compliance with the age-related needs of the skin.

    Lumene, Finland

    Lumene brand decorative cosmetics is represented by a rich palette of rich and pastel shades. Since its inception, Lumene has been producing unique developments, applying Newest technologies and uses the most valuable components of northern plants. Lumene brand cosmetics have caring properties and can fully satisfy your beauty and health needs.

    Christian Dior (Christian Dior), France

    Decorative cosmetics of the Christian Dior brand have managed to achieve love and recognition from customers all over the world.

    What are decorative cosmetics?

    The company offers a rich color palette of decorative makeup products that emphasize femininity and sexuality. Christian Dior cosmetics are a symbol of success, luxury and elegance. Like any other classic, the Christian Dior brand is beyond fashion and time, occupying its own individual niche.

    Estee Lauder (Estee Lauder), USA

    The Estee Lauder brand offers customers a diverse line of makeup products with a rich assortment and very convenient testers. Estee Lauder brand cosmetics combine fashionable shades, delicate texture, a wide palette of colors, high durability and have attractive packaging. All Estee Lauder products undergo strict testing and dermatological testing, and are manufactured using high-tech production with strict quality control.

    Guerlain, France

    The Guerlain brand offers consumers a full range of all luxury makeup products. Tradition and quality are of the greatest value and serve as an integral part of the company's concept. Luxury Guerlain cosmetics do their best to ensure healthy facial skin, so only carefully selected products are used to create products. best components. Guerlain is famous for its powder balls, an extensive palette of moisturizing and nourishing lipsticks and a variety of shadows - glossy, matte, pearlescent.

    Dark blue (db) (Dark Blue), Italy

    The Dark blue cosmetic brand has gained popularity among many customers thanks to its rich color palette, decent quality and affordable prices. Dark blue cosmetics are produced in Italy using high-quality equipment with continuous quality control. The company always takes into account fashion trends and Dark blue makeup products are able to satisfy the needs of all age categories.

    Revlon (Revlon), USA

    Revlon decorative cosmetics is represented by the widest range of makeup products with a wide color palette and excellent quality. Revlon brand products include carefully tested safe and hypoallergenic components that have a positive effect on facial skin. All manufactured products are subject to strict control and numerous tests, which guarantees the famous quality of the Revlon brand.

    Cosmetic products give a beautiful appearance and healthy condition to the skin and hair and therefore have great hygienic, aesthetic and psychological significance. They cleanse, moisturize, nourish, strengthen, protect from adverse natural factors, and eliminate inflammatory processes. The consumer properties of cosmetics in general can be divided into the following main groups:

    Functional; -ergonomic; -reliability; - aesthetic; -safety.

    The functional properties that determine the effectiveness of the product are most important to the consumer. Depending on the purpose of cosmetic products, the functions performed by them have features: for example, for shampoos - this is washing, foaming ability, for deodorants - elimination of sweat, for nail polish - drying, for decorative cosmetics - color, etc. The most important functional properties of cosmetics are: funds are:

    Cleansing ability, which is characterized by washing ability (for soaps and gels), cleansing effect (for milk, lotions), tonic ability (for tonics), exfoliating ability (scrubs that remove dead skin scales from the surface of the skin and promote deeper cleansing).

    Cosmetic properties are manifested through the external visible effect of improving the condition of the skin and hair, thanks to hydration, nutrition, regeneration, improvement of metabolic processes in the skin, resulting in increased firmness and elasticity of the skin, improved color, and smooth out wrinkles. Hyaluronic acid and organic hydroxy acids (malic, citric, lactic) are most often used as moisturizing substances. Their action is associated with the formation of an elastic film on the surface of the skin, which limits the evaporation of moisture, thereby helping to preserve it.

    Vitamins (A, F, E), yeast complexes, and liposomes are offered as nutritional components.

    Protective properties are provided thanks to sunscreen additives, additives that provide a protective factor for aging (tanning products), additives that provide protection from low temperatures (creams intended for use in the cold season).

    Therapeutic and prophylactic properties, have an antiseptic effect (foot care products, antiperspirants), cleansing and degreasing effects (remedies for acne), antiseborrheic effect (medicated hair shampoos).

    Special properties include skin whitening, the ability to shrink pores (perspirant deodorants), depilation (chemical or mechanical hair removal).

    Ergonomic properties satisfy physiological and psychological needs in accordance with certain characteristics of consumers. They characterize the ability of a product to create a feeling of convenience and comfort. The ergonomic properties of cosmetic products are determined by consistency; packaging; devices that facilitate the use of cosmetic products, etc.

    The reliability of cosmetic products is primarily related to their shelf life and is determined by their shelf life, which can be from several months to 3 years. A longer shelf life of cosmetics should prompt careful attention to its composition, and above all to the type and amount of preservative. The shelf life of domestic cosmetics is determined by regulatory documents. However, when using new, higher-quality preservatives, the shelf life increases, therefore, in the production of cosmetics, the practice has developed of establishing the shelf life by the manufacturer himself, which is based on the formulation of the product.

    The aesthetic properties of cosmetic products are designed to satisfy human aesthetic needs. Indicators of these properties are appearance, color, smell, packaging design, packaging information content, style orientation. The style of cosmetic products reflects the relationship between the content and external design of the products. Corporate style, which determines the image of a company and its products, is especially evident in decoration packaging.

    Decorative cosmetics - abstract

    Domestic manufacturers pay great attention to creating their own corporate style and have achieved great success in this direction, for example, products from Nevskaya Cosmetics, the Kalina concern, Green Mama, Grima, Svoboda are easily recognizable by a single design that is unique to them .

    The safety of cosmetic products depends on the composition, quality of the original components, the technological process of production, storage and sale conditions, and consumption conditions. At each stage of the life cycle, certain processes may occur in cosmetic products that cause changes that are dangerous to human health. Therefore, to check the safety of cosmetic products, a series of tests are carried out. For chemical indicators, the test set includes the determination of the hydrogen indicator (acid number or alkali content). All these indicators determine the effect of cosmetics on skin and hair.

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