• Behind the Screen: The True Life of Arab Women. How does the heir to the throne of the Arab Emirates live?

    03.08.2019

    The United Arab Emirates is a country inhabited by deeply religious people. From childhood, parents teach children to honor traditions, and if they are violated, a person will face severe punishment. This has also affected the lives of women in the UAE.

    Arab women's clothing in Dubai

    Arab women in Dubai and other emirates, according to the Koran, have the right to show only their hands, face and feet to strangers. But sometimes it is impossible to even see the faces of beautiful Arab girls, since it is customary for women in especially religious families to leave only their eyes open.

    If you look at photos of women in Dubai, in most cases they are dressed in black, as this is traditional for the outfits of the emirate. Tourists usually get used to such women in black after a few days in the UAE.

    And, of course, everyone wants to know what Arab women are wearing under their black clothes?

    At first glance, tourists may think that the girls are suffering from the heat in such long and dark clothes, because summer period The air temperature often reaches 50 degrees. But it should be noted that it is not at all hot in such vestments, since it is sewn from high-quality silk, and this creates a cool effect. And in a country like the UAE, rarely anyone walks; basically everyone travels by personal transport, and every car has air conditioning.


    Under a long black loose cape, women in Dubai can dress quite revealingly.

    It is interesting that a married Arab woman, if she wishes, can wear a short skirt or fashionable shorts, but at the same time she must cover herself with a long silk robe that reaches the floor in black. Modern fashionistas live in Dubai, but according to custom, they can only show off their outfits to their husbands.

    Abaya- traditional outerwear of Arab women. This is a thin, soft, black cape, reminiscent of loose dress. In this region, such clothing, combined with Sheila(shawl) and niqab(burqa) has traditionally been popular among women since ancient times.

    Before our era and in the first centuries of our era, it was used because of its convenience and versatility. Aristocrats wore such clothes, hiding their faces and bodies from the sun's rays to protect themselves from sunburn and age spots, and also avoid prying attention.

    Interestingly, aristocrats in Europe did approximately the same thing in the 17th-19th centuries, using capes with hoods and veils. Islam introduced this traditional closed clothing as recommended for women to wear in public places. But rural and Bedouin women dressed and dress differently. Instead of abayas, they wear colorful and brightly colored long robes. They are open at the front, revealing colorful dresses underneath, tied with a belt that shortens the length of the garment for ease of movement and work. It is believed that the black thin classic abaya, shawl and niqab are the invention of urban fashionistas who are not burdened with work and everyday life. This style was acquired by Bedouins and rural women, who gradually moved to the cities. More modern models Abai are worn not on the head, but on the shoulders. General form similar to sleeves in a kimono with closure with Velcro, snaps or even without a closure.

    Concerning burqas, then this long robe with false sleeves hides the entire body, leaving only the face open. But it, as a rule, is covered with chachvan - a dense mesh made of horsehair. The woman can raise or lower it at will. Another type of Muslim clothing is burka - somewhat similar to a burqa. This is a blanket that covers the entire body including the head, and a mesh-covered slit is left in it for the eyes. Of other types of women's Muslim clothing, it is common veil- a light blanket, usually dark in color, covering a woman’s entire body from head to toe. The veil itself does not cover the face; for this purpose, an additional piece of fabric or a niqab head cape can be used, hiding the woman’s hair and face and leaving only a slit for the eyes.

    Muslim headdresses and capes: hijab (top left), niqab (top right), veil (bottom left), burqa (bottom right)

    The word itself " hijab"translated from Arabic as barrier or partition. The term itself is also used to refer to the principle of modest behavior, and the hijab itself is both men's and women's clothing. Its most common form is the headscarf, which is worn by many Muslim women.

    However, hijab consists not only of it. This concept refers to the complete covering of the entire body except the face, feet and hands in a long, loose dress made of opaque fabric. According to tradition, Muslim women must observe the “hijab” in front of any man whom they could theoretically marry. But wearing it is not necessary in front of your father, grandfathers, brothers, uncles, small children or other Muslim women.
    Many call head coverings a hijab, but in fact it is any women's clothing, corresponding to Sharia norms and covering the entire body and hair of a woman, except for the face, hands and feet below the ankles (scarf, jacket with long sleeves and a floor-length skirt).

    Jewelry of Muslim women in the UAE

    Emirati girls burden themselves with numerous gold jewelry. This feature is justified historically by traditions, because in ancient times arab man could exercise the right to divorce his wife by saying the word “talaq” (meaning “go away”) to her three times. In these parts, it was customary that immediately after such words a woman would pack her things and leave her husband’s house. Thus, in order not to be left with nothing, women were forced to wear all the gold jewelry they had. This habit has been preserved in the Emirates even now, but only the wives of wealthy citizens have gold jewelry.

    The United Arab Emirates has amazing foundations and culture: despite the active urbanization of many Arab cities, technologies that amaze the whole world and architectural projects that have found fertile ground for implementation on Arab soil, this country still continues to live in accordance with the traditions of Arab culture. One of its distinctive features is the role of women in society and family.

    In the United Arab Emirates, women wear only strict black clothing that completely covers their bodies. Legs, arms, hairstyles are hidden from prying eyes... They usually wear “sheilas” (large black scarves) on their heads. Even showing the soles of the feet is prohibited, because Arabs believe that this part of the body is “dirty”, and, therefore, exposing the feet means showing disrespect to others. In a number of emirates, women do not even show their faces, covering them under “batullahs” (translated from Arabic as “under masks”).

    A woman can show her face to her husband, brother or father. If her face is revealed to a stranger, it will disgrace her for life! If a stranger reveals a woman’s face by force, such an act will offend her entire family, and the offender himself will be severely punished.

    Of course, it is not easy to hide your face all the time. So that a woman can sometimes take a break from the mask and clothing covering her entire body, Arab houses are divided into male and female halves.

    It is noteworthy that the future spouse cannot look at the face of his betrothed before the wedding. Men are not allowed to look at women or talk to other women.

    Arab woman outside the walls of her home

    An Arab woman should always be accompanied by someone - she should not walk alone. Usually a young girl or woman goes out in the company of an older companion. A brother, father or husband can also accompany a woman, but she is required to walk slightly behind the escort. In the UAE, men do not allow ladies to come forward and do not open doors for them.

    Family values

    In the emirates family values play a big role. Family ties people here are very strong, elders are usually honored and respected, elderly parents never lack attention from their children and grandchildren.

    Marriages are concluded by family agreement, but the bride and groom must also give their consent. In the UAE, women have equal rights to education as men, and the number of working women is growing every year. However, in the life of every Arab, the main value is family. This has always been the case, and this is how things are today. Once upon a time, it was very difficult for the Arabs to survive in the desert, and the support of loved ones was extremely important. Not only parents and children were valued, but also more distant relatives. The Bedouins lived a modest, almost primitive life, huddled in a common space large families, but at the same time they created fertile soil for generations to come for the rooting of such qualities as attention, respect for each other, patience and compliance. To this day, this heritage markedly distinguishes the Arabs from other peoples.

    Yes, in modern conditions, members of Arab families have become somewhat distant from each other, but family values ​​in the emirates have remained the same - they are still one of the strongholds of Muslim society.

    Arab wives

    For an Arab wife, the most important task is the birth of offspring. IN Arab family It is not customary to separate children of the same man born different women: Each of them has equal rights, an equal share of love and attention. Working women are still the exception rather than the rule. In the UAE, husbands provide for wives and children.

    Moreover, if the husband fails to cope with his task, the wife goes with a complaint against him to the elder, and he subjects him to severe censure. Not quite happy with yours financial situation a woman can return to her parents, which will become an indelible shame for her husband.

    Homework arab wife not busy, the cleanliness of the house is monitored by a housewife who cannot be a native Arab. Typically, Malaysians, Indians, and so on are hired as housekeepers in the Emirates.

    For Arab men, their wives are expensive: they go to salons, pamper themselves with shopping, give gifts to friends, make themselves beautiful, doing it exclusively for their spouse.

    The harem is just a legend

    Arabs are still not Turkish Ottomans, and harems in the UAE are a myth. However, polygamy is an Arab reality. The tradition of having several wives is very old. Bedouins often had to survive, and a woman left without a husband and a child was destined for starvation, which is why they married their widows here dead brothers. Today this custom is still alive, but modern Arabs no longer have the same enthusiasm for observing it. According to Islamic laws, oriental man must support his family until his death.

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    Polygamy and harems, lack of education and legal disenfranchisement, the shine of diamonds and burqas - the life of Arab wives has acquired so many stereotypes in the eyes of foreigners that it is already difficult to distinguish truth from fiction.

    website I decided to find out how the beautiful and mysterious women of the East actually live.

    Arranged marriage

    • Half of marriages in many Arab countries are indeed still concluded based on the will of the parents. And many are sure that no one takes into account the girl’s opinion. Actually this is not true. If the bride does not like the groom, then she has the right to refuse the marriage proposal.
    • Marriage contract must be signed. Unlike the rest of the world, in Arab countries this rule is strictly observed.
    • Arab women rarely marry non-believers, since they can be expelled from the country for marrying an infidel. Men are in a more privileged position; they are allowed to marry Christian and Jewish women. But in this case, the girl does not receive citizenship, and in the event of a divorce, the children remain with the father.
    • Age at marriage. Installed in most Arab countries minimum age bride and groom at 18 years old. For example, residents of Tunisia can legally marry from the age of 18, but in fact average age brides - 25 years old, grooms - 30 years old. Although some developing countries still practice early marriages. For example, more than half of girls in Saudi Arabia and Yemen get married before the age of 18.

    How do weddings go?

    IN different countries Traditions vary, but often the Arab bride and groom celebrate their wedding separately.

    • "Men's Wedding" It can even be celebrated on more than one day with the bride’s celebration and, as a rule, takes place simply: tea, coffee, dinner and communication - no more than 4 hours in total. The wives' weddings are much more magnificent: a huge hall, waiters, artists.
    • "Women's Wedding"- this is a reason to show off in diamonds, designer shoes and evening dresses. After all, usually all this beauty is hidden under scarves and hijabs (abayas). Therefore, only ladies are present at such weddings. Men are strictly prohibited from entering. All staff are women only, including singers, photographer and DJ. If a famous singer is invited, then he will not see either the hero of the occasion or the guests, performing songs behind a screen or in the next room, and the broadcast is broadcast into the hall.
    • The husband's arrival is announced in advance, so that all the ladies could cover themselves with abayas. And if the husband comes with his brothers or father, then the bride is also covered with a white abaya, because even male relatives should not see her beauty.
    • It is not customary to give money or household appliances as gifts for a wedding. Jewelry is usually given to the bride as a gift.

    Polygamy

    • Most marriages are monogamous. Not every Arab man can afford polygamy. Islam allows you to have up to 4 wives, but each of them must be provided with their own home, equally given gifts, attention, jewelry and other things. Several wives are the privilege of sheikhs and very wealthy people.
    • The first marriage is the most important. No matter how many wives a man has, the first, “great” marriage is considered the most important, and the wife is considered the “eldest”.
    • If the husband nevertheless took another woman as his wife, the remaining spouses are ordered to reconcile. They must submit to the will of their man and not show any emotions. As a rule, all wives live in different houses and do not intersect so often.

    Divorce

    • A man, wanting to divorce his wife, according to a long-standing tradition, could tell his wife “go away” three times at any time. After this, the wife had to immediately leave his house, taking with her only what she was wearing. Therefore, women carried all the donated gold on themselves. In practice, divorces initiated by husbands are extremely rare. In addition, during a divorce, children always remain with their father.
    • A woman can file for divorce if a man does not provide for her well enough. The courts consider such applications carefully and most often satisfy them. In the Arab world, men express their love not with flowers, but with gold and jewelry. For example, he is obliged to take her to restaurants, buy expensive gifts and clothes. If there are several wives, then everyone is entitled to the same amount of attention and gifts.
    • In other cases, it will not be so easy for a woman to get a divorce, after all, courts often make decisions with bias, supporting the husband’s side to the last.

    Women's rights

    Contrary to prevailing stereotypes, an Arab woman is highly respected by men. She shouldn't need anything.

    • Arab women were among the first to receive the right to marry at will, divorce and property ownership.
    • This happened back in the 7th century, while in other countries ladies were deprived of such opportunities. Islamic law viewed marriage between a woman and a man as a contract that could only come into force with the consent of both parties. Also during this period, women's right to own property and dispose of the wealth that she brought into the family or earned was introduced. Weekly women's days.
    • Once a week in the UAE, all beaches, water parks and beauty salons are open exclusively for ladies. A man will simply not be allowed into the establishment. However, a Muslim wife does everything with the consent of the man.

    In order to go somewhere, she should warn her husband about it and get his permission.

    • Cloth Women should cover their bodies with loose clothing and a veil.
    • They can wear anything: miniskirts, jeans, and shorts. The outfits of Arab beauties could be the envy of many fashionistas. But when going outside, a woman puts on a silk cape down to her toes, and hides her face with a scarf. After all, her beauty is only for her husband; strangers should not see her. The exception is “women’s” celebrations and weddings, where there are no men and you can “walk” designer new items. However, this custom is not observed everywhere, but women must cover their heads in almost all Arab countries. Kuwait is the only Arab country where women wear European clothes on the street
    • . However, she must remain modest and closed. In contrast to Kuwait

    There are countries, such as Yemen and Sudan, where the old customs still exist and women are required to wear black capes that cover them entirely, from crown to toe.

    • Education and work Many girls even go to study abroad. For example, in Jordan only 14% of women are illiterate. In the UAE after graduation high school 77% of girls enroll in university and make up 75% of the total number of students at Al Ain National University.
    • Household management rests on the shoulders of the woman, however, in rich countries, housekeepers take on this responsibility, and the main task of the wife is to give birth and raise offspring.
    • There is a career. In the UAE, women make up about 2% of executives, hold 20% of administrative positions and make up 35% of the country's workforce. At the Abu Dhabi Stock Exchange, 43% of investors are women. Also in the United Arab Emirates, women can become judges and work in government departments such as the police. In Tunisia, more than 26% of parliament members are women. Fly in the ointment It can only be the fact that in many Arab countries a woman cannot get a job without the consent of her husband or guardian.

    In the past, it was a poor seaside village where the aborigines barely survived. Traditional activities include fishing and growing dates. Today, the most beautiful city will turn into the business capital of the world in the near future, as entrepreneurs believe. From a financial, commercial, and architectural point of view, the interest in this region is serious, judging by the numerous tourists. True, the weather in Dubai is not sweet.

    Creation of a country

    The UAE is a Gulf state. In the depths of the earth there are oil reserves, which made the region wealthy and “doomed” to prosper. The state is young; just fifty years ago it was a lifeless desert with a lack of infrastructure. The emir is the monarch at the head of seven territories. In December 1971, a merger took place into a state called Sheikh Zayed, the leader of Abu Dhabi, became the head of the union, and is popularly revered as a politician. This emirate is larger than others, which means that the head is the head of state. This decision was made.

    Sheikh Zayed realized that success could not be achieved with crude oil alone. It would be better to organize production, processing, and transportation. Developed infrastructure, jobs, housing are the engines of progress. Trade in petroleum products is where the prosperity lies. The emir attracts proven foreign professionals who have helped transform the desert into an oasis.

    How do native Arabs live?

    There are 8.5 million people registered in the emirates. Citizens of the country (the population of Dubai) are a minority, the remaining 88.5% are hired workers from Asia and other countries.

    There is no point in working for indigenous citizens; they do not need funds from birth.

    Local residents in Dubai are represented by government officials and businessmen. With the beginning of the construction of a miracle city in the desert, the indigenous population left this gigantic construction site. They went to live in other countries where it was comfortable and calm, and they would return home whenever they wanted. This is the standard of living in Dubai. Arabs work only in government agencies.

    They run their own business, this is even encouraged. At his first job, an Arab earns $4,000. He already works part-time as a schoolboy. After graduating from university, the minimum salary is already ten thousand dollars. Women have the same right. A local resident will work, experience will accumulate, qualifications will increase, and monthly remuneration will increase. An Arab retires with a salary of $100,000. These are not fairy tales.

    A stranger will not become a citizen of the country; this is possible only by inheritance.

    Life in Dubai for local residents is like this: everyone receives state income from the sale of petroleum products, upon the birth of a child, a plot of land is allocated for him, and the family is credited with 60 thousand dollars.

    Public guarantees

    Education is free: secondary, higher. An advanced student at a local university, if he completes the first year with excellent marks, is given the right to choose to continue his education at a university of his choice from the world list.

    The state pays for studies and rent abroad. An apartment is rented for the student and a monthly stipend of $2,000 is provided.

    Medicine is free, including treatment and operations outside the country.

    Upon reaching the age of 21, an Arab is allocated land and money to build a house. This does not apply to women.

    First marriage between citizens is encouraged by a loan. After birth of three children's loan is repaid.

    An Arab is allowed to have four wives. To do this, two conditions must be met:

    • each missus is provided with a house, servants, and gifts worth at least 35 thousand dollars;
    • It’s not easy to take a new wife - you need the support of wives who are already available.

    Local ladies dress uniformly, prefer black robes and cover their heads, often in a burqa. There are strict clothing requirements here. The shoulders need to be covered, and the sleeves need to be long. This also applies to foreigners. No matter what the weather is like in Dubai.

    Economic policy

    The growth of the national economy became possible thanks to the extraction, processing and export of petroleum products and raw black gold. This industry is the main one. The government nationalized petroleum and blue fuel from the mid-70s, and from the 81st sales: gas stations, transport, storage facilities. Funds are being invested in the development of the gas spur; a special investment program is in place. Behind the main one there are branches: energy, water desalination, aluminum industry, and some other types. The emirates have an established road network and 6 airports of international importance. The economy of Dubai does not stand still; rapid movement is a thoughtful process for the long term. Developed infrastructure and an enviable standard of living are a guarantor of economic inviolability. Attractive taxation offers a list of favorable conditions. Funds from the sale of oil products are used to ensure that the country becomes the largest international center of services, primarily of a financial and economic nature, and tourism. World experts assess investment in travel and construction as promising. Thanks to the climate, perfected local services, the interest of vacationers will be year-round. Life in Dubai shows that predictions are coming true.

    You can feel the difference

    The tariff for passport holders applies. Citizens are paid differently, even though they do the same work. No equality. Life in Dubai shows this. Pale-faced people are people, albeit hired ones. Asians are labor force, biomass, who fulfill the whims of the employer. Forget about moving your family. Not everyone can afford this. Among the migrants, of course, there are personnel with qualifications from Europe who receive agreed remunerations. They rent luxury apartments, use maids, and bring their family with them.

    6 days. Closed on Friday. In cities shopping centers work without rest. The size of the shopping and entertainment giants is amazing; they serve as a place to relax on weekends. Representatives of numerous nations delimited spheres of influence. It so happened that Indians and Pakistanis are taxi drivers. Filipinos are nannies, the Chinese run restaurants and snack bars. Work in Dubai for Russian speakers is offered as managers, salespeople, and administrators. It is impossible to change your place of work. The terms of the contract are fulfilled during the period of the work visa. Our compatriots are willingly hired by trade and travel companies. Many people from the CIS come to the UAE to relax and go shopping.

    For information

    It is important to comply with local laws. Alcohol is prohibited and is not sold in stores. To purchase strong drinks you need a special license. In hotel bars, where it is expensive, but you can drink, there is alcohol. You can't kiss on the streets. Living in Dubai is an expensive pleasure, the cost is beyond reasonable. Some employers pay employees' rent and some utilities. If you are searching on your own, get ready to be “unfastened”. The cost of real estate for temporary use is exorbitant. Medicine is expensive, if something happens, it’s better to go home. There is no standard mail as we understand it. The owner of the car is aware that if he forgets to pay the fine, he will be deprived of the car. Few green spaces and animals.

    There are more and more poor people who need to pay for housing. People sleep in cars. This is prohibited at the legislative level. Police raids take place periodically.

    Another sad phenomenon is divorces, which are steadily growing and account for a third of all marriages. This is a clear indicator of the instability of family relationships.

    The climate is hot and arid. Temperatures in summer are in the forties, in winter - 20 degrees Celsius.

    but on the other hand

    You can get citizenship if you marry an Arab. In three years, when the spouse agrees, citizenship is in your pocket. The union will take place only when relatives from the head of the family give consent to this. The bride refuses to be a member of her previous citizenship, receiving something in return: free healthcare and a pension. Children from the marriage of a citizen and a foreigner are entitled to something, but without benefits. A union between a native woman and a foreigner is suicide.

    The concepts of “citizenship” and “passport” are separate: citizenship is passed on only by inheritance, and you can obtain an official UAE document. A person who comes for permanent residence, after 5-6 years, claims the coveted crusts. For our compatriots from the CIS countries, they will receive it only after 15 years.

    Many who come to Dubai in search of a better life feel like strangers here.

    The immigration policy is to attract powerless newcomers to work. There is nothing to be afraid of - it will never become “one of our own”. A migrant worker is dust, not a person, the muscle power of a giant construction site, the population of Dubai.

    It's important not to forget

    The Emirates is a Muslim country and exists under Sharia law. Living in Dubai has pros and cons in abundance. Lots of taboos. Visitors must strictly comply with local requirements. Alcohol is prohibited in the emirates. If you get involved with drugs: independent use - prison, distribution - death penalty. IN in public places It is not recommended to eat food, smoke, litter, or behave inappropriately. Non-Muslims are prohibited from entering mosques. You can’t fight - immediate deportation, obscene speech is prohibited. It is not allowed to take photographs. This is for execution.

    The standard of living is high, with only Switzerland and Liechtenstein ahead. Many advantages. Positive points: it’s easy to get a visa here, official salary, no taxes. There will be permanent work in Dubai for Russian speakers. You can make a career, there are many examples of this here. The streets are safe, laws are respected and enforced, and women's rights are respected. It's a paradise for car enthusiasts: water is more expensive than gasoline, cars are cheap, there is no traffic police. Summer all year round. Civilized level of services and personal safety. The owner of the property automatically receives a residence permit in the UAE along with his family if the purchase price is over 300 thousand dollars. However, this purchase is unique: the owner will own the property for only 99 years. This is a long term rental.

    Additional Information

    Public transport in Dubai works, but a car is better. Rentals are in demand. There are highways and cheap gasoline. You can rent a car immediately at the airport or at any rental company in the city and hotels. There are various brands of iron horses, from cheap to not so cheap. To register, you need to show the required documents. When returning the vehicle, do not be surprised if you have to pay fines for speeding, not wearing a seat belt and talking on mobile phone during control.

    There are many cozy Arabic coffee shops here. The menu includes traditional oriental sweets and hookah everywhere. These establishments are popular with local residents who enjoy a leisurely pastime, contemplating the world, play backgammon and smoke hookah.

    When in a Muslim country, it is not necessary to wear the national uniform. In public places, it is recommended to wear clothing that covers the body as much as possible. Transparent models and T-shirts with offensive sexual content should be avoided. It is forbidden to bare your breasts on the beach. In restaurants, a classic style is encouraged, and not shorts with a T-shirt, which will cause confusion among others. Especially in a complex hotel complex. The simpler the attire, the easier it is to communicate with local residents.

    What lies behind beauty

    Dubai is the main commercial and administrative center of the Middle East. It amazes with its gloss, chic, and sophistication. It attracts you, a fairy-tale city in a scorched desert. What is behind the glitz and luxury of Dubai?

    Guest workers, the majority of whom are representatives of Asian countries. Complete lack of rights, working almost for free in the wildest climate conditions, living in landfills.

    There are endless construction projects all around – this is the norm of the current global crisis. Due to the fall in oil prices, property values ​​have dropped significantly, the economy is adapting to this. The construction of many facilities is frozen or stopped altogether.

    Ecology. Despite their advantages, the emirates are ahead of the planet in terms of carbon dioxide emissions into the atmosphere. The construction of artificial islands, the displacement of coral colonies or their complete destruction affects the ecology. The decomposition process progresses, the water begins to “bloom”, and bad smell.

    Previously, there was a problem with waste. But as soon as the issue with fresh water and electricity was resolved, everything returned to normal.

    The local climate is harsh. Photos don't do justice to the killer heat. It is impossible to exist here as usual; moving on foot is unrealistic. Life in Dubai is not easy for Russians. Reviews show that it is the climate that they tolerate the worst. For many this is a problem. Therefore, wherever possible, air conditioners are installed: in cars, at public transport stops. However, the desert will always be there, and there is no escape from it.

    Our compatriots come to the UAE because they are unable to earn good money at home. Life in Dubai is attractive, but after being here, Slavs leave home without regret.

    Roman went to the United Arab Emirates to work at a Russian-language radio station. He lived in the country for a year and a half, got his fill of impressions and returned to Russia. As part of a series of materials about compatriots who moved abroad, he publishes his story about life in Dubai.

    I decided to live and work abroad about three years ago. I thought that I had reached the peak of professional development in my hometown and it was time to conquer new horizons. The option to go to the Emirates arose completely by chance. I work in radio, and I learned from a colleague that in Dubai a male voice is required for a local Russian-language radio. And then events developed rapidly: I sent my resume and demo and received an invitation for a trial period. I left hastily and literally a few days later I was walking along the city beach of Ajman.

    Visits to Arab countries go through my adult life a red thread: in addition to tours to Egypt, Tunisia and Morocco, I visited Jordan and Iraq during the reign of Saddam Hussein. Therefore, I didn’t think about the trip for a long time.

    About the visa

    Before moving, I knew little about the Emirates: the tallest skyscraper in the world is Burj Khalifa, the capital of the UAE is Abu Dhabi, not Dubai, a desert, the Persian Gulf (by the way, in the Emirates it is marked on all maps as the “Arabian Gulf”) , luxury cars, expensive shops, heat. Perhaps this is all that was associated with the Emirates at that time.

    There were no problems with obtaining a visa to the Emirates - it is not needed. Visitors can stay in the country for 30 days as tourists. A work visa is issued by the employer upon hiring. Its validity period is from one year to three years. The employer pays for the work visa. Its cost is 4-5 thousand dirhams (80-90 thousand rubles), depending on the validity period.

    About difficulties

    The adaptation period lasted, perhaps, about six months. The first difficulty is the heat! I come from Tula, and my ancestors are generally from the north, so living in a temperature range of plus 32-36 was not easy out of habit. Colleagues encouraged me, saying, you’re lucky because it’s spring! Summer will come - then hang in there! And it’s true: in the summer, when the temperature was plus 45-50 Celsius, I had to run home from work under the air conditioner and be sure to drink a lot of water.

    On the shore of the bay, the heat was a little easier to bear - sometimes a breeze blew from the sea. But in the desert where I lived, there was always dry, burning air and no breeze. Because of this, at first I felt dizzy, but then I got used to it.

    Another important point- language. I have no problems communicating in English with non-native speakers, but in the Emirates this has become a problem. The UAE is a country of visitors, 75 percent of the population are migrant workers from India, Pakistan, Asian countries, CIS countries and other Arab countries. People from each country have their own English dialect. Understanding what a Pakistani person was saying the first time, and in English, turned out to be an insurmountable task for me. It took me a few months to get used to it.

    In general, the dominance of citizens from India and Asia gives rise to a very ambivalent perception of the UAE. One gets the feeling that you are not in an Arab country at all, but rather in an oriental bazaar. Their cultural customs and habits in most cases cause hostility among representatives of European nations, but it is impossible to point out to a Pakistani in the subway the unpleasant smell emanating from him: by law this can be interpreted as a violation of the rights of a citizen of another country.

    About work

    Finding a job in the Emirates is both easy and difficult at the same time. For example, in tourist Ras Al Khaimah and Fujairah there is a lot of work in the service and trade sectors. If you have a work visa (and it is required), you can find a job even without knowing English or Arabic. But in Dubai, work is more difficult. Not everyone is hired for well-paid positions. There is so-called “passport discrimination”. For example, for citizens of the UK, USA, Canada, Australia and even New Zealand, salaries in positions similar to workers from other countries are 2-3 times higher. The lowest paid positions are for immigrants from Pakistan and CIS countries. Citizens from Russia are also not particularly regarded as workers. Getting a job depends on personal qualities and luck. A good salary in Dubai is 7-8 thousand dirhams (this is about 110-120 thousand rubles). However, this is not as much as it might seem.

    About costs

    In general, the UAE is a country where everything is aimed at spending. The infrastructure is organized according to the principle of “step by ruble”, the same principle in public catering. Throughout the country there are restaurants and cafes literally at every turn - and all because Arabs love to eat a lot and deliciously. Moreover, for lunch or dinner they always offer barbecue, shawarma, and sweets for dessert.

    The whole country is going crazy for sweets: everyone eats it everywhere! But there is also side effects- total obesity of the nation, especially among children. In Dubai, there is even a state program to combat obesity among schoolchildren. However, it works poorly, because the cost of the cheapest, but very high-calorie sweet is 5 dirhams (75 rubles).

    The average bill in a Dubai restaurant is 100-150 dirhams (1.5-2.2 thousand rubles) per person. And this is without alcohol. Alcohol can only be purchased in specialized alcohol markets or in bars and clubs.

    Products in stores are mainly seasonal and imported. In winter, it is very difficult to buy a ripe watermelon or mango, because it is also winter in Pakistan and Oman (the main suppliers of fruits and vegetables), and the fruits are not yet ripe. However, the price of even the greenest mango is steep: on average, they are sold for 10 dirhams (150 rubles) per piece. Local meat and seafood are also far from cheap. It is more profitable to buy Australian or Brazilian beef, and Scottish salmon is comparable in price to local fish - “sultan” - 20-30 dirhams (350-450 rubles) per piece of 300 grams.

    About housing

    The cost of housing in Dubai and the rest of the Emirates are completely different. The most expensive housing is in Abu Dhabi, since it is after all the capital. But in Dubai, rental housing is the most popular type of business. Despite the fact that local real estate brokers are required to obtain a state license for their activities, all and sundry rent out apartments in the UAE. And all because many clients (most often Russians) do not know local laws and do not ask the realtor for a license. Hence a lot of violations and fraud.

    But even if you managed to find decent housing in a good area and through a licensed broker, do not flatter yourself - the price will unpleasantly surprise you. For example, a studio with a master room (“euro-bedroom”) in a high-rise building in a prestigious area will cost 5-6 thousand dirhams (75-85 thousand rubles) per month. And this does not take into account payment for utilities, which usually amount to about 7-8 thousand rubles. In the areas simpler price half as much, but this option is for those who are not embarrassed by their Pakistani neighbors.

    About medicine

    Medicine in the UAE is paid and works on the principle “if you are sick, get treated in a hospital, not at home.” You can only visit a general practitioner for free, and then only with insurance. It is issued together with a work visa and is valid for the same period. In exceptional cases, the employer pays for the employee’s illness.

    But if you are unlucky enough to get sick, you will have to prepare money, and a lot of it. For example, an appointment with a cardiologist, even with an insurance discount, can cost 100 dirhams (1.5 thousand rubles), and it is not at all excluded that aspirin will be prescribed as treatment.

    In general, aspirin and menthol ointment are the most popular medications here. They are sold everywhere, unlike serious painkillers or antibiotics, which are almost impossible to purchase. They are used only in hospitals. There are also problems with the professionalism of local doctors: they have advanced technologies in their arsenal, which they do not know how to use. Therefore, Emirati citizens go to private doctors for treatment, mostly from former USSR. After all, Soviet medicine is still a brand, and an expensive one at that.

    About the locals

    The local residents - the so-called "locals" - citizens of the Emirates and their descendants seemed to me rather boring, infantile and arrogant people. For example, being an hour late without explanation is the norm among Arabs, and this hour is called “Arabic”. In all matters with their participation, you will find, in addition to waiting, disrespect and irresponsibility.

    But there is an explanation for these phenomena. The state is providing serious social support to its citizens throughout their lives, starting from birth. Locals do not need to worry about their “daily bread” and family. And it’s also unnecessary to respect other nations: if someone doesn’t have the same social bonuses, which means they are not equal.

    The “lift” for each child is about 100 thousand dirhams (that’s more than 1.5 million rubles), plus lifelong support until old age, pension and education. The latter, by the way, is free for local children in any country in the world.

    Visitors are not citizens of the UAE, which means they cannot count on government support. In most cases, it is simply unrealistic for a “stranger” to obtain citizenship. One of the conditions, for example, is to save the life of a sheikh or a member of the royal family. Moreover, upon reaching the age of 55, all expats must leave the UAE, because the Emirati state does not support “foreign” pensioners. If a child was born in the UAE, and his parents are not citizens of the country, then he will not receive Emirati citizenship.

    Local Arabs are quite knowledgeable about Russians. Some even studied in Russia and know about our country. But most of all, Arab men are interested in Russian women.

    Unfortunately, there are more and more stories about the availability of Russian women (including residents of Ukraine and Belarus). It's all about the irresistible desire of girls and women to marry the mythical “rich Arab”. True, often girls simply do not understand who is in front of them: the crown prince or the poor Syrian in a Bentley rented for a day.

    Despite the stereotypes, there are quite a lot of marriages between Russian women and Arabs. But in this case it is worth noting that their children become locals, but Russian wives do not. The wife receives only temporary maintenance, the amount of which is determined by the husband. And among such couples, the majority of divorces occur: more than 40 percent of all divorces in the UAE occur in interethnic marriages. Simply put, if you manage to bind an Arab, it won’t last long and is akin to slavery.

    About stereotypes

    “Vodka - bear - balalaika” - a set of these stereotypes is not for residents of the Emirates. A country is judged by its citizens. For locals, modern Russia is associated with the passion of its citizens to spend their last money on everything - from street shawarma to fashionable villas. This led to the stereotype that Russians are not very smart, but they are very rich. And Russia for Arabs means winter and Putin. Despite the fact that the Emirates is a pro-American country, much like the United States, most locales treat our president as a strong and respected leader.

    And, of course, for the locals, Russia is home to the most beautiful girls, but who haven’t we heard this from!

    ***

    Of course, I am grateful to fate and all the people involved for the opportunity to live and work in another country. I lived in the Emirates for a year and a half and returned to Russia with pleasure. The UAE is a fairy tale country for tourists, but in reality it is an expensive package made of glass and concrete with emptiness inside. I will only go back there to visit friends and swim. There are still many amazing places in the world. And another discovery awaits me.

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