Enzyme peeling– This is a superficial cleansing of the skin using natural enzymes. The role of catalysts is played by natural components similar in composition to the substances of epidermal cells. A professional cosmetic procedure costs from 300 to 5000 rubles. At the same time, such enzyme peeling can be done at home. special cosmetics, or prepare the product yourself.
Enzyme peeling is carried out to remove the upper dead layer of the epidermis, allowing living cells to function better. During the peeling process, pores are cleared of dirt, blackheads are eliminated, and the skin texture is evened out. Unlike other types of peeling, enzyme peeling is the safest, but no less effective. The catalysts have a protein structure similar to human cell proteins. Skin renewal occurs naturally, enzymes only contribute to this.
Enzyme composition
IN cosmetics ah one or more catalysts are used. Enzyme peeling includes:
Operating principle
Protein catalysts are divided into several classes. Their action is aimed at accelerating processes at the cellular level or slowing them down. Enzyme peeling contains catalysts that affect the rate of breakdown of proteins, carbohydrates, and fats. The epidermis contains its own enzymes that are involved in the formation of new cells, nutrition, maturation, and separation of dead cells. Removal of the stratum corneum occurs due to the destruction of protein bonds. Living cells no longer hold them, the scales peel off. In young years, all these processes occur in the body quickly, unnoticed by the person himself. 
However, over time, the activity of its own enzymes decreases. The surface layer of the skin becomes rougher and dirt accumulates in the pores. Living cells do not receive adequate nutrition, the skin fades, wrinkles, enlarged pores and other defects appear.
Enzyme peeling promotes the breakdown of protein – keratin. Dead cells are quickly removed, living cells are saturated with oxygen, and metabolism improves. After the procedure, the skin becomes smooth, with an even texture, healthy color face, without small wrinkles.
Indications for the procedure
Enzyme peeling solves many skin problems:
Contraindications
Enzyme peeling is contraindicated in a number of cases:
- violation of the integrity of the skin - abrasions, wounds, cuts, bruises;
- herpes;
- warts;
- fungal, bacterial skin diseases;
- allergic rashes;
- exacerbation of acne;
- inflamed acne;
- diabetes;
- diseases that reduce immunity.
How often can you do enzyme peeling?
The frequency of procedures depends on the condition of the skin. Up to 30 years of age, enzyme peeling is carried out according to the indications of a cosmetologist, if the skin is excessively oily. Exposure to fruit acid is considered the most safe method cleansing the skin. After 30 years, it is recommended to use enzyme peeling 2 times a month. After 40, the need for peeling increases to 1 time per week.
In addition, the condition of the skin is taken into account. For dry, sensitive skin, it is enough to do enzyme peeling once every 2 weeks. For normal and combined, the frequency of procedures is similar. At fat type skin – 1 time per week. You shouldn't get too carried away with peeling. Firstly, frequent procedures dehydrate the epidermis. Secondly, the natural enzymes of skin cells will cease to perform their functions.
Enzyme peeling for the face at home
The salon peeling procedure is characterized by the use of stronger drugs. The effect is much higher than home treatments. At the same time, products for independent procedures are safer and do not require the supervision of a cosmetologist.
Homemade enzyme peeling - instructions
Soothe the skin with a nourishing, moisturizing cream. After the procedure, you will feel a tingling and burning sensation for some time. The skin will become slightly pinkish. This indicates that the enzyme peeling is actively working.
Where to buy effective enzyme peeling, can it be found in a pharmacy?
The peeling agent can be purchased at the pharmacy. They differ in price, effectiveness, and composition. Before you go shopping, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the effect of the active components and who is capable of what. Enzyme peeling costs from 180 rubles in a pharmacy. up to 5000 rub. You can find more expensive products on official websites on the Internet. Even buy professional peeling. In this case, it is advisable to consult a cosmetologist.
Salicylic enzyme peeling
The active components are enzymes; salicylic acid has an additional effect. Its main purpose is to narrow pores, normalize the processes of the sebaceous glands, restore water balance, and activate cell function. In addition, salicylic acid has an anti-inflammatory and regenerating effect. It quickly softens the stratum corneum of the endometrium and promotes its rapid removal.
- during pregnancy;
- when feeding;
- in the presence of dermatological diseases;
- after visiting the solarium;
- with sunburn.
Stopproblem – enzyme peeling at home
The cosmetic product contains catalysts, salicylic acid. You can use enzyme peeling at any age. An effective remedy for the treatment of acne. Eliminates hypersensitivity of the skin, restores water balance. Used to reduce the manifestations of rosacea. Enzyme peeling is carried out in 2 ways:
- Apply a thin layer to cleansed skin. Leave the enzyme peeling on for 15 minutes. For overly sensitive skin, 7 minutes is enough. Wash off with warm water. Apply caring cream.
- Deeper enzyme peeling is recommended after several regular procedures. To determine the skin's reaction to the active ingredients. The skin is pre-cleansed and the enzyme peeling is evenly distributed. Cover the face with cling film with cutouts for the mouth, nose, and eyes. Leave for 20 minutes.
The cost of the drug in the pharmacy is about 200 rubles.
Enzyme peeling mask
Currently, the following products are especially popular among women:
Enzyme Peeling Mask Janssen (Jansen)
The composition includes active enzymes bromelain, papain, kaolin. The drug is produced in Germany. Enzyme peeling improves blood microcirculation, evens out skin texture, removes minor defects, and smoothes wrinkles. The powder is mixed with an activator containing sea salt. Apply to the skin. Withstand enzyme peeling for 20 minutes. Wash off with plenty of warm water. The cost of the drug is from 2000 rubles.
Enzyme peeling mask Danne
Available in 3 variations. Each of them has its own characteristics. One mask has a mild effect - eliminates fine wrinkles, dark spots, blackheads, acne.
The second mask has a deeper effect - it fights deep wrinkles, sagging, decreased tone skin.
The third mask is used when there is a clear violation of blood microcirculation. For rosacea, rosacea, post-acne, hyperpigmentation. The cost of the drug is from 2000 rubles. In the salon, enzyme peeling using cosmetics from this company will cost 7,000 rubles.
Enzyme peeling Mirra
The active component is natural component papain. No preservatives, toxic substances. It acts gently, but a burning sensation is felt during the peeling process. Itching on the skin, redness is observed. Enzyme peeling is applied for 20 minutes. Wash off with warm water in large quantities. Cost over 350 rub.
Enzyme peeling gel
The product is suitable for all skin types. It has a gentle effect and is designed to easily cleanse the skin. Does not affect deep layers. Enzyme gel is applied to clean, steamed skin. Massage with light movements and rinse with water. The gel contains abrasive particles that accelerate the process of sloughing off dead skin cells and remove fat and dirt from enlarged pores. Among this category of drugs, the following are especially popular:
Recently, biorejuvenation and skin healing procedures have become especially popular. One of these techniques is safe to use even at home. Its action is based on catalysts of natural origin - enzymes that work in a similar way to human cells.
The extraordinary properties of enzymes (or enzymes), discovered by scientists, make it possible to break down the protein keratin directly in the skin. Due to this, old tissues peel off, and new ones literally grow, as the natural synthesis of collagen and elastin fibers is launched in the skin.
This is especially necessary in older age, since over the years metabolic processes slow down, pores become clogged, which is why natural elasticity is lost. However, it is possible to restore a tightened oval face and a pleasant, uniform color, even if you do not use aggressive “chemistry”.
DIFFERENCES OF HOME PROCEDURES FROM SALON
However, it is not without reason that enzyme cleaning is divided into 2 types: home and salon. This differentiation is justified, since the procedure performed by an experienced cosmetologist is much more effective and is based on the use professional means. Enzymes in clinical settings can cope not only with pigmentation disorders, but even with cancerous tumors.
At the same time, if radical intervention is not required, at home you can save up to 50 € per 1 session if you purchase ready-made enzyme cosmeceuticals or make them yourself according to a prescription. One procedure in this case costs only 1 €. However, you should not use this technique if you have the following contraindications:
- Exacerbation of skin diseases.
- Acne with a purulent core or wounds.
- Hypersensitivity.
- Fresh (up to 14 days) tan.
- Individual intolerance to components (a preliminary allergy test on the inner bend of the elbow is required).
HOW OFTEN TO CLEAN YOUR HOME
How often you can do it depends on your age:
- After 18 years of age, peeling is indicated to combat increased sebum secretion; the frequency of procedures is determined by the doctor.
- After 30 years, anti-bio- and photoaging procedures can be performed every 2 weeks.
- After 40 years, you can increase the impact and conduct sessions every weekend.
The number of sessions is also adjusted by the degree of oiliness of the skin:
- (and/or sensitive) sufficient procedures 2 times a month.
- Those with normal or combination skin also do not need to increase the frequency of sessions.
- procedures shown every week.
The full course is limited to an average of 7 sessions, after which there is a break of several months.
After enzyme peels, you must use creams with SPF 30+, and also avoid sweating and sunbathing.
6 READY HOME PEELINGS
Enzyme preparations can be purchased in pharmacies or specialty stores at prices ranging from 1€ to 65€. The compositions of such products vary greatly, so it is better to study their features and purpose in advance.
Popular Russian peeling with enzymes and suitable for all ages.
It is good at eliminating acne, normalizing the water-lipid balance (which makes it suitable for both), and reduces hypersensitivity.
It is unique in that it makes the vascular network less visible (while for many other peels, rosacea is listed as a contraindication).
Offered for sale at an average price of 3€.
There are 2 options for this home exfoliation:
- Surface. Clean, apply a small amount of products for 7-15 minutes (depending on skin sensitivity). Rinse with water at room temperature, moisturize with cream.
- Superficial-medium. It is carried out only after several “light” treatments. After cleansing, we also apply a small amount of the drug, but then the face must be covered with cling film with holes for the sensory organs. Wash off after 20 minutes.
Janssen
The German preparation contains enzymes from pineapple, papaya and medicinal clay kaolin. Increases blood circulation, smoothes out fine wrinkles.
Retail costs an average of 25€.
To carry out the procedure, you need to mix the dry mixture with a special activator and apply according to the instructions on cleansed facial skin for 20 minutes, then rinse generously with water at a comfortable temperature.
Danne
If in salons a session of such American peeling costs 80 €, then home remedy costs almost 4 times cheaper: about 25 €.
Available for sale different variants Danne enzyme masks: small or larger deep wrinkles; from age spots, acne and comedones; for skin with rosacea or couperose.
Mirra
And this economical enzymatic peeling based on papain without preservatives and toxins costs about 5 €. Many people like it because during the process of exposure to the skin a tingling sensation is felt and subsequently the face turns slightly red: some people like it visible signs It’s easier to understand that the drug is working.
Apply to pre-cleansed skin for 20 minutes, rinse with water at room temperature.
Polish enzyme preparation based on fruit extracts is recommended for skin of any type. Designed to exfoliate, tone and tighten pores. A single-use sachet costs only 1€.
It is recommended to apply with light massage movements to a steamed face, after wetting your fingers under running warm water. When applying, avoid sensitive eye and lip areas. After a few minutes, rinse off.
Mizon
Korean enzyme cream-gel consistency is a duet of apple and hyaluronic acid. Can be used even on thin and hypersensitive epidermis, it moisturizes and nourishes well. Costs about 15€.
According to the instructions, apply to cleansed, dry facial skin, then after a few minutes lightly massage until pellets of horny cells form. Minus: ineffective against blackheads (only slightly lightens).
4 HOME RECIPES
For those who are unable to visit a salon or buy ready-made products, you can pay attention to recipes at home. Some of them are simple, some are suitable only for sophisticated producers of enzyme cosmeceuticals at home: we have selected options for everyone.
Lightening with honey and soy milk
Take 2 large spoons of fresh pumpkin puree (without the top), as well as 1 tablespoon each (also without the top) of soy milk and liquid honey. Mix the ingredients, apply, cover your face terry towel(pre-soaked in hot water and wrung out) for 15 minutes, then rinse with warm water.
Pumpkin helps against acne, evens out complexion, exfoliates the stratum corneum, and nourishes cells with moisture. Honey disinfects, milk tightens the oval of the face.
Renewing with mango and pumpkin puree
Squeeze the juice from one medium lime and grind 3 tablets into powder. pharmaceutical drug“Papaya enzyme”, mix, add 1 large spoonful of pumpkin and mango pulp, crushed in a blender. Squeeze fresh aloe juice (1 tsp) into the mixture and add the same amount of glycerin.
Marina Ignatieva is the editor of the “Beauty” section of COLADY magazine, a hair and makeup specialist.
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Enzyme peeling is another very effective remedy get young skin, flawless complexion and get rid of hated acne, enlarged pores, blackheads, blackheads, fine lines, pigment spots, scars and scars from inflammation. Enzyme peeling helps remove all these imperfections from the surface of the skin, it stimulates skin renewal and rejuvenation. Read: Can it be done?
Enzyme peeling - how it works
The basis of enzyme peeling products is: enzymes and chemicals
, which have the ability to effectively exfoliate dead skin cells of the epidermis. The new layer of skin that remains after the procedure no longer has the same imperfections that it had before. Thanks to enzyme peeling, you can perform acne prevention, regulate skin oiliness
. Fine wrinkles on the face disappear because skin gains tone and elasticity
, stretches. All types of hyperpigmentation are also eliminated using enzyme peeling, and this type of peeling is indicated for almost all skin types. Enzyme peeling is good because the effect of its implementation can be seen almost immediately after the procedure.
Enzyme peeling happens superficial and deep. Superficial enzyme peeling is performed for skin with minor imperfections. Deep enzyme peeling can remove even tumor cells from the epidermis that lead to skin cancer.
Some enzyme peeling preparations contain enzymes
, which are found in most fruits and plants - pineapples, sugar cane, manuka, kiwi, grapes, orange, grapefruit, wheat, papaya, green apples, aloe vera, pumpkin, etc. Most salon enzyme peels with more concentrated acid solutions work much more effectively on skin with significant imperfections, even eliminating the effects of acne, scars, and age spots. Enzyme peeling is also good rejuvenating procedure
which gives freshness and elasticity aging skin.
Since only a professional cosmetologist can correctly select the concentration of enzyme peeling products needed specifically for your skin, then Enzyme peeling is best performed in a beauty salon and do not conduct experiments on your skin at home.
Enzyme peeling procedure - how often should they be done?
Enzyme peeling is one of the most gentle types chemical peeling, and therefore on average it can be fulfilled 1-2 times a week
, depending on the individual skin reaction to it. For dry skin, it is recommended to perform enzyme peeling no more often than once a week
. For very oily, problematic, combination facial skin, enzyme peeling can be performed from 2 to 4 times a week
. If your skin is prone to acne breakouts, then enzyme peeling cannot be performed. Usually it's enough two enzyme peeling procedures, with a break of a week
. The next course of enzyme peeling can be performed no earlier than 5-6 months
.
When choosing the number of enzyme peeling procedures required, you should rely on consultation with a professional cosmetologist. You cannot perform enzyme peeling with a significant excess in the concentration of solutions and the number of procedures, otherwise you can cause the opposite effect - the skin will lose elasticity and healthy looking, it will become dry and irritated, and hyperpigmentation will appear on it.
Enzyme peeling results. Photos before and after enzyme peeling
Enzyme peeling has the unique ability to give the skin healthy appearance and even tone, increase tone, firmness, elasticity of the skin, eliminate minor imperfections
– post-acne, scars, pigment spots, new growths on the surface of the skin, even out the skin texture, make it smooth and radiant. But, however, you should not pin your hopes on enzyme peeling to get rid of deep wrinkles, rough scars and scars - this peeling can only eliminate minor flaws,
because it is superficial. 
Indications for enzyme peeling
- Dark spots, hyperpigmented skin, uneven complexion.
- Post-acne, scars and acne spots.
- Oily skin with increased sebum secretion, mixed skin.
Contraindications to enzyme peeling
- Allergic reactions, intolerance to agents used for enzyme peeling.
- Any skin diseases in the acute stage.
- Infectious skin diseases.
- Aggravated herpes.
- Diabetes mellitus, cardiovascular diseases.
- Injured skin sunburn, fresh tan.
Approximate prices for enzyme peeling procedures
The average established price for enzyme peeling in beauty salons in Moscow and St. Petersburg is within from 500 to 2500 rubles in one procedure. The price for this procedure depends on the chosen salon.
Peeling helps make the skin more youthful, radiant, and elastic.
Each salon offers several types of such procedures to choose from. You need to decide: which one to choose?
One type of procedure is an enzyme procedure, which is especially popular. What it is, what indications and contraindications there are for enzyme (enzymatic) facial peeling, we will explain further.
This procedure is gentle, performed using enzymes and is suitable for any skin. During the procedure, secretions of sebaceous and sweat glands, protein contaminants, and dead epidermal cells are removed from the surface of the face.
Enzymes stimulate flow chemical reactions, as a result, complex substances are broken down into elements that are easily absorbed by the body. They dissolve dead skin particles and are an alternative to abrasive exfoliants and highly concentrated acids used in chemical peeling.
This anti-aging procedure is recommended for women who have oily or combination skin, twice a week. For sensitive skin, it can be used no more than once every 10 days. With more frequent use, the skin looks dull and drier due to the removal of the protective layer. You can perform peeling in a salon or at home.
The effect of the salon treatment will be higher, since more active agents are used for it. If you decide to carry out such a procedure at home, you can buy the necessary medications at a cosmetic store or salon.
Mechanism of action
The stratum corneum of the epidermis contains proteolytic enzymes that affect the rate of chemical reactions. They take an active part in the renewal of the epidermis by breaking down proteins. The ongoing aging processes are accompanied by loss of moisture and a slowdown in the renewal process of epidermal cells. The top layer thickens, impurities accumulate on the surface, and the skin becomes dull and uneven.
Enzymes in enzyme peeling destroy chemical bonds, which makes it easier to exfoliate dead epithelium. This manipulation affects only the stratum corneum, without penetrating deeper. Removing the top layer helps to enhance skin cell renewal.
The manipulation is not dangerous, does not cause mechanical damage, and does not leave redness.
The most popular ingredients are:
- blueberry;
- pumpkin;
- pomegranate;
- a pineapple;
- papaya.
Types of enzymes
Enzymes for the procedure can be of bacterial, animal or plant origin.
The most popular are:
- papain (isolated from papaya: leaves, fruits, peel, has antimicrobial properties, gets rid of dead cells, eliminates inflammatory processes, regulates the functions of the sebaceous glands, prevents the formation of comedones and acne);
- pepsin (obtained from the gastric mucosa of farm animals: sheep, calves, pigs);
- travaza (produced by bacteria, has a whitening, exfoliating, loosening effect);
- subtilisin (produced by bacteria, the effect is stronger than papain);
- lysozyme (derived from egg white, has an anti-inflammatory, antibacterial effect, activates the immune system);
- sorbaine (obtained from papaya and lemon, gets rid of dead cells, enhances metabolic processes in skin cells);
- bromelain (obtained from papaya, wild lemon, pineapple, eliminates inflammation, relieves pimples, acne);
- trypsin (obtained from the pancreas of livestock, eliminates inflammatory processes, relieves edema).
Advantages and disadvantages
The manipulation is gentle and gentle, there are almost no contraindications to its implementation.
Main advantages:
- removal of dead cells;
- stimulation of new cell growth;
- increased tone;
- improvement of skin texture,
- prevention of wrinkle formation;
- elimination of facial wrinkles;
- smoothing age wrinkles;
- softening dry skin;
- onset of rapid effect;
- reduction of redness;
- removing toxins from the skin surface;
- cleansing and narrowing pores;
- prevention of acne;
- removal of unwanted pigmentation;
- Can be used throughout the year;
- use for hands and body;
- use during pregnancy;
- does not injure the skin.
Disadvantages include:
- it is impossible to eliminate scars or deep wrinkles;
- complications may occur;
- Frequent use is unacceptable.
Indications and contraindications
The grounds for this are:
- any skin type;
- pigmentation;
- acne and consequences;
- shallow superficial wrinkles;
- unevenness;
- comedones;
- dull skin;
- decreased turgor;
- pollution;
- the appearance of phytoaging;
- preparation for other procedures.
There are few contraindications:
- acute skin diseases;
- intolerance to components;
- diseases associated with decreased immunity (including diabetes);
- heart and vascular diseases;
- after sunbathing;
- active form of herpes;
- existing damage.
Preparing for the session
Before visiting a beauty salon, the skin needs preparation:
- do not use products containing acids and retinol;
- a day before the procedure, refrain from depilation;
- 4 days before the procedure laser resurfacing or dermabrasion, peeling should be avoided.
Stages of the procedure in the salon
If the manipulation is performed for the first time, a test is required to determine sensitivity. The prepared composition is applied to the inside of the forearm and left for 10 minutes. If there are no changes, you can proceed with the manipulation.
Enzyme peeling can be in a tube (ready-made) or in powder (prepared before use, diluted cannot be stored).
Using cleansers, remove makeup, using lotion to tone the skin. The enzyme composition is applied sequentially to the face, including the neck, décolleté and left for 10 to 30 minutes (depending on the result desired).
Cover the face with film or a towel soaked in warm water. Sometimes a massage is done on top of the composition. After the set time has passed, the composition is washed off. To do this, use warm water or alkaline neutralizers for peelings containing acids. A toner is applied to the skin.
A mask is then applied based on the problem that needs to be solved. It is possible to use active serums. At the next stage, a cream is applied according to your skin type (preferably with UV protection).
Post-procedure care
No special care is required; it is better to use boiled water for washing. It is recommended to protect yourself from direct sunlight. It is necessary to use moisturizers and sunscreens (SPF 15 or more) throughout the course of skin care.
During this period, you should not touch your face with your hands; it is better to avoid using foundation, refrain from using large quantity cosmetics.
results
The skin becomes hydrated and radiant. The color is evened out and pigment spots are lightened. Rejuvenation is noticeable on aging skin: its tone increases, it becomes elastic and toned (here).
This procedure can be carried out as a preparation for more serious laser skin resurfacing, microcrystalline dermabrasion (you will find out how to do it). Goes well with darsonvalization of the face (how to do it, go here).
Quantity and average prices
The course requires 5 – 8 sessions (depending on the condition of the skin).
To obtain the desired effect, professional enzymatic peelings (with acids in their composition) are carried out once every 7–10 days in a course of 8–10 procedures. A repeat course can be taken after 6 months.
The cost of peeling in a salon ranges from 500 to 3,500 rubles.
The price is affected by:
- area of the problem area, its location;
- brand of composition used;
- beauty salon category.
One session is not enough; at least four are needed. On average, the cost of the course costs 7 – 9 thousand rubles.
Peeling is, if not a rejuvenating, then an effective cosmetic care procedure. In this way, the horny scales accumulated on the surface are removed, which make the skin uneven and emphasize even the slightest wrinkles. Enzyme peeling, unlike numerous other types, practically does not irritate the skin, which is why it is very popular.
What is enzyme peeling?
The skin is quite complex. For appearance skin the most important is the most upper layer the epidermis and the deeper layer, where elastin and collagen fibers are formed - the dermis. There are many effects on the skin external factors: ultraviolet radiation, air humidity, temperature, pollution, microorganisms and so on. The top layer of skin, the horny layer, serves as a barrier between environmental factors and the dermis. The surface layer is constantly renewed: new epidermal cells appear, they displace the old ones, the latter gradually dehydrate and turn into horny scales.
The stratum corneum does not peel off instantly - after all, it serves as a barrier. The scales continue to hold for some time, and then gradually separate. Since this process is ongoing, the replacement is completely invisible to the eye. However, if this process is disrupted, the picture becomes different.
The accumulation of dead cells leads to - the skin becomes rough to the touch, since the stratum corneum contains a very small amount of moisture - up to 13%. At the same time, a thick, rough layer of scales emphasizes any unevenness in the wrinkles, and it gives the skin an unnatural shade - pale, grayish; in order to eliminate the scales, peeling is used.
Peeling is a method of removing the stratum corneum using abrasive particles - mechanical methods, and aggressive substances – . There is also a distinction where exfoliation is performed by treating the surface of the skin with a laser. With mechanical abrasive particles, dead cells are separated, not always neatly, which often leads to irritation. During chemical peeling, active substances dissolve horny scales.
In addition, with this procedure there is deep cleansing skin, since impurities and secretions from the sebaceous and sweat glands are almost completely removed. This is one of the reasons why it is not advisable to exfoliate in spring and summer, since the skin becomes defenseless.
Concept and essence
Enzyme peeling is a type of chemical peeling in which enzymes are used instead of ordinary fruit acids. These are specific substances, complex proteins that act as biological catalysts or inhibitors. Enzymes regulate more than 5,000 different reactions. They are divided into 6 classes:
- oxidoreductases – act as activators of oxidation-reduction reactions;
- transferases – ensure the transfer of certain functional groups from one molecule to another;
- hydrolases - catalyze the breakdown of molecules with the participation of water;
- lyases – ensure the breakdown of molecules without the participation of water;
- isomerases - regulate isomerization reactions - changing the structure of the molecule without changing the composition;
- ligases – activate synthesis reactions.
Enzyme peeling uses enzymes from the hydrolase class: carbohydrase - breaks down carbohydrates, proteases - break down proteins, lipases - break down fats. Why them?
The stratum corneum of the skin contains a proteolytic enzyme - protease. The enzyme breaks down proteins into amino acids and peptides, which at the skin level manifests itself as the formation of lipid cement for fastening ceramides, the destruction of intercellular mechanical bonds and the separation of keratinocytes. This means that normally the intercellular connections between the horny scales are destroyed in time after complete dehydration of the cell, and the latter peel off freely.
With changes in the skin, for example, protease activity decreases. Accordingly, dead cells accumulate, which leads to roughening and thickening of the skin, dryness, and impurities. The enzyme included in the enzyme peeling acts as a protease: it breaks down keratin and destroys intercellular connections. In addition, by removing the top layer, fibroblast synthesis is stimulated, which promotes rapid skin renewal.
Protease has an acidic reaction, just like fruit acid - 5–5.5. At any concentration of the enzyme, part of it binds to the antiprotease, which is always located in the upper part of the skin. On the one hand, this partially suppresses the activity of the substance. On the other hand, enzymes can bind to their antagonists, which makes them insensitive to other inhibitors. This ensures a prolonged peeling effect: the process of updating the top layer is completed not after the end of the procedure, but later.
A specialist will tell you what enzyme peeling is in this video:
Kinds
The peeling composition includes substances from animals, plants and even bacterial origin, similar to the composition of skin enzymes. There are quite a lot of them.
Plant origin group:
- papain- an enzyme contained in the juice of the fruit of the melon tree - papaya. It breaks down proteins into amino acids and has a weak antimicrobial effect;
- sorbaine– substances obtained from lemon and papaya juice. Their task is to remove dead cells, that is, to destroy intercellular connections;
- bromelain– an enzyme found in pineapple fruits. It also promotes the breakdown of proteins and the removal of horny scales, but in addition it has a pronounced anti-inflammatory and anti-edematous effect;
- ficin– a proteolytic enzyme contained in the stems and leaves of figs. The substance not only breaks down protein molecules, but also activates the production of native collagen;
- actinidin– is part of kiwi juice. Destroys peptide bonds, activates the process of exfoliation of dead cells;
- arbutin is a tyrosinase inhibitor. This substance suppresses the production of melanin, so it is added to lighten the skin.
Animal origin group:
- pepsin– an enzyme from the hydrolase group that destroys peptide bonds. The substance is obtained from the gastric mucosa of animals;
- trypsin– a group of serine proteases that break down peptides. It is extracted from the pancreas of cows;
- chymotrypsin– has the same origin and is similar in effect;
- pancreatin– obtained from the pancreas of pigs. The substance breaks down fats and starchy compounds;
- lysozyme– extracted from protein chicken eggs. The substance destroys intercellular cement, which promotes exfoliation of horny scales and has a strong antibacterial effect - up to the destruction of cell walls.
Group of bacterial origin. The most active enzymes are used:
- subtilisin– catalyzes the decomposition of proteins, esters and amides. More active compared to substances of plant origin;
- grassa– loosens and exfoliates the top layer of skin. It is often used for skin whitening.
Dairy enzymes of different types are classified into a separate group:
- casein– has a moisturizing and softening effect on the skin. Casein is used to prevent irritation;
- lactalbumin– proteins from whey. Serves as a source of amino acids and nourishes the skin;
- alkaline proteinase– 1 and 2 – are close in structure to blood proteinase and thrombin. Break down proteins;
- proteinase 1 and 2– specialized enzymes, showing activity towards protein bonds formed by lysine and arginine, respectively;
- acid proteinase– carries out partial hydrolysis of casein, which then promotes the breakdown of peptides.
In addition, enzyme formulations include substances that help protect against free radicals, preventing the action ultraviolet rays, as well as vitamins, mineral complexes, plant extracts.
Enzyme peeling results
Comparison with similar techniques
- In terms of its effect, enzyme peeling is very close to chemical. Fruit acids, which are the basis of the latter, destroy intercellular connections between dead cells. Accordingly, the horny scales peel off much easier and the skin cleanses. Acids are somewhat aggressive and irritate the skin.
- Enzyme peeling acts more softly. It contains substances similar to natural enzymes designed to break down protein molecules and destroy intercellular connections. Despite the fact that their reaction is also acidic, enzymes do not have such a strong irritating effect. Shown for the most sensitive skin even with, and some inflammations.
- Mechanical peeling At its core, it has a purely physical effect: small abrasive particles forcibly detach the horny scales, since the latter are not held firmly. The pH of the product is neutral, so it does not cause irritation, just like an enzymatic one. But the latter is more effective, since it affects the entire depth of the stratum corneum simultaneously and evenly, while mechanical cleaning affects the layers sequentially.
- Laser peeling based on a kind of annealing of horny particles. A carbon dioxide laser heats the upper layers to high temperature, in which intercellular connections are destroyed, and scales are easily removed mechanically. In terms of effectiveness, enzyme peeling is somewhat inferior to laser peeling, but has a more affordable price.
Indications
Enzymatic peeling has no age restrictions. If for women over 40 years old it serves as a rejuvenating procedure, then for young girls it is a great way, for example, to lighten their skin.
Indications for the procedure are varied:
- appearance;
- fine wrinkles - or dry skin, for example;
- , blockage of sebaceous ducts - enzyme peeling perfectly cleanses pores;
- , acne, acne, as well as the consequences of rashes;
- rough, rough skin;
- dull color, appearance of a grayish tint;
- deep contamination - ingrained dirt. Peeling is more effective even with professional skin damage of this kind;
- preparation for deep-impact cosmetic procedures;
- skin damage as a result of prolonged exposure to wind, ultraviolet radiation;
- preventative care.
Contraindications
Enzyme peeling is possible for any skin type: normal, oily, dry, which significantly expands the scope of application. However, this procedure also has limitations:
- deep scratches, unhealed wounds and other damage that violates the integrity of the skin;
- , other skin ailments at the time of exacerbation;
- on any component of the composition;
- and others systemic diseases, in which the properties of connective tissues change.
Unlike many others cosmetic procedures Enzymatic peeling can be performed during pregnancy and breastfeeding.
Carrying out the procedure at home is the topic of this video:
Carrying out
With some skill, enzymatic peeling can be done at home. However, it is better to carry out the first procedure in the salon. It takes little time and does not require special preparation. The only condition: after laser resurfacing, a sufficient amount of time must pass so that skin covering fully recovered.
Preparation
Preparation includes 2 steps:
- perform a sensitivity test first. A drop of the composition is applied to the bend of the elbow or to the area behind the ear, if within 10-30 minutes the skin does not redden or swell, peeling can be carried out;
- the day before the procedure, you should stop using creams, lotions and other products, including any acids. Otherwise, the skin will be overly sensitive, which increases the likelihood of irritation.
Stages
The procedure includes 5 stages.
- Makeup removal - the facial skin is thoroughly cleansed of cosmetics using a suitable tonic or lotion with a soothing effect.
- The powdered composition is diluted with water immediately before the procedure. The finished product is simply immediately applied to the skin: first on the forehead, cheeks, chin, then on the nose, cheekbones, eyelids, lips, as well as the neck and décolleté. Use a special flat brush for this. Enzymatic peeling can be applied to the entire body. Some formulations cannot be used on lips and eyelids, as mentioned in the instructions.
Enzymes are more active in conditions of heat and high humidity, so after applying the composition, apply a compress to the face: a film and a heated damp towel. Peeling lasts from 10 to 30 minutes, depending on the required depth of exposure.
- The composition is washed off with ordinary warm water. Because in some cases an alkaline neutralizer is required.
- It is recommended to make a mask after peeling - rejuvenating, restorative, moisturizing. The skin is very sensitive after peeling, the pores are open, so the mask will have maximum effect.
- After removing the mask, apply an appropriate cream, usually a soothing one.
The course consists of 5–8 sessions. Procedures are carried out 1-2 times a week, which is determined by skin type.
Rehabilitation
None special restoration No need after peeling. Makeup can be used the next day. It is recommended to use it during the course and after another 3 weeks sunscreen with a degree of protection of at least 15.
Possible complications
Despite the very high degree safety procedure can lead to complications:
- exacerbation of herpes if the virus is not treated;
- exacerbation of acne - the fact is that the renewal of the top layer activates the sebaceous glands, which is why peeling is indicated for the driest skin. In addition, clogged sebaceous ducts, after being “released,” strive to get rid of the accumulated horny-sebaceous mass as quickly as possible. This intensifies acne. As a rule, after the activation phase, the skin quickly returns to normal;
- with high sensitivity it may occur. A routine skin test prevents this situation;
- observed extremely rarely, but possible in severe form or.
Price and clinics
Enzyme peeling is performed in both clinics and any beauty salon. In addition, the composition can be used at home.
- Various ready-made mixtures can be purchased for amounts from 690 to 2900 rubles.
- In a beauty salon, the procedure will cost 990–3500 rubles.
