home
House
Do-it-yourself artificial stone made of gypsum. Decorative stone made of gypsum

Do-it-yourself artificial stone made of gypsum. Decorative stone made of gypsum

08.08.2019

Looking for inexpensive and high-quality forms for decorative stone? See information on this page kamnedeloff.ru/form.

Which gypsum is best to use for decorative stone? Is it possible to make a stone from alabaster? What is better gypsum g-6 or g-16 and what is the difference? I will answer all these questions in this article.

Artificial decorative rock can be made from absolutely any plaster, construction alabaster, medical, gypsum g-6 and g-16 are suitable for it. The main difference between all these plaster is strength. For example, gypsum g-16 is much stronger than g-6 and the stone made from it will be stronger. You can safely use it by diluting it with water and get an excellent stone. But gypsum g-16 has one big disadvantage: its price. In our region, a 40 kg bag costs 850 rubles.

Let's calculate how much gypsum will be needed for any stone 1 cm thick. I have for sale an old brick 1 cm thick, 15 kg of gypsum is needed per square meter. The bag yields 2.6 square meters. The cost of one square is approximately 330 rubles - expensive.

Alabaster costs 250 rubles per 40 kg. The cost of 1 square meter will be around 100 rubles, but the stone will be fragile. You can, of course, reduce the amount of water and increase the amount of gypsum, then the stone will be stronger, but the result will be such a mixture that you simply will not have time to even it out in shape. In this case, various plasticizers, such as SVV-500, come to the rescue. By the way, I suggest you look at my experiment on increasing the strength of gypsum on this page.

The essence of these additives is that the stone becomes stronger, because... the amount of water decreases, the mixture becomes fluid for a longer period of time and is comfortable to work with. But there is also a minus: by reducing the amount of water, the consumption of gypsum increases + the cost of the additive itself and, according to my calculations, the cost of the stone increases by about 2 times. Those. now it will cost you not 100 rubles, but 200. For example, there is a mold with a volume of 1.8 liters, the usual proportions are approximately the following: 1 kg of gypsum and 800 grams of water. With the addition of plasticizers, the proportions will be approximately the following: 1.4 kg of gypsum and 400 grams of water.

Join our group vk.com/kamnedelofff - There you can always ask a question and get an answer. Or just exchange experiences.

On sale you can find special mixtures for making decorative stone, which already include all the additives. Such products are manufactured by the Samara Gypsum Plant. But again, the price is steep: 700 rubles for 25 kg. Although if you buy such a bag at the factory itself it costs 360 rubles.

But not everything is so bad, there is one way to make yourself a stone inexpensively. I use MAGMA g-6 b-3 molding gypsum in production. I add 800 grams of water to 1 kg of gypsum and, in principle, the stone turns out normal. I have been doing this business for about a year, I have sold more than 500 square meters in all that time and there have not been a single complaint. The stone is easily transported and laid, provided, of course, that the installer has straight hands. There was an order from a city 1000 km away from us, the stone they ordered was relief slate, its length was 40 cm, height 9 cm. It was sent by a transport company. I thought the stone would not arrive alive. But then I called the customer and he said that everything was fine.

Ask a stone maker!

If you have any questions about plaster, molds or decorative stone, you can ask me a question in the comments.Ask a question

Magma costs 330 rubles for 30 kg and gypsum costs 130 rubles per square centimeter stone. Another advantage of this plaster is its white color. When pouring, the color of the mixture has a pink tint, but after the stone dries it will be white. The remaining gypsums mainly have grey colour, even Samara G-16.

What to do if you don’t have normal plaster, but want to make a more or less strong stone?

As I said above, absolutely any plaster will do. You need to make a proportion so that there is a minimum amount of water and more gypsum, but again, I wrote above that the mixture can harden quickly. Therefore, before mixing, dissolve a pinch of ordinary citric acid in water, it will slightly increase the life of the solution. If all else fails, reduce the plaster and add water. The speed of hardening is also affected by how long you mix the plaster. Sometimes you stir it for 20 seconds more and the mixture already hardens. Many people add PVA glue directly to the solution, I heard that the stone will be stronger, but I personally have not tried it. Therefore, I won’t tell you how much to add.

Types of artificial stone

When considering the question of what artificial stone is made from, it is not difficult to choose a technology acceptable for use at home.

Depending on the raw materials and methods of processing, artificial stone is divided into the following types:

- Ceramic (tiles)– the manufacturing process requires the creation high temperature for firing raw materials and turning them into a monolithic conglomerate.

- Plaster (cast). It can be done at home. The costs of raw materials and production are minimal, however, such a stone is only suitable for interior decoration, because it is not resistant to frost.

- Concrete molded. The cost of production is more expensive than gypsum, since the resource of molds for casting concrete is less. Suitable for self-production. Frost-resistant.

- Free-formed reinforced concrete. This artificial stone is made piece by piece, usually at the site of use (artificial cobblestones, boulders, slabs).

- Hot-curing polyester. In terms of its mechanical and decorative characteristics, it is superior to some types of natural stone, but the synthetic compound hardens only in a vacuum at elevated temperature. For home production he doesn't fit.

- Cold-hardening cast acrylic stone. Suitable for home production. In the temperature range from +175 to 210 it is thermoplastic, therefore it allows additional molding after casting.

How to make artificial stone with your own hands?

This requires two basic components: mold and casting mixture. The home technology for producing artificial stone can be implemented either in a factory-made polyurethane mold or in a home-made silicone one. It all depends on the total footage of the finishing and the budget allocated for this work.

The polyurethane matrix is quite expensive, but it allows you to make several hundred high-quality impressions. Silicone mold is more suitable for small-piece stone production and home sculptural crafts. Its resource usually does not exceed 20-30 castings.

For making your own silicone molds a set of natural stone or tiles is laid out on a horizontal, stable and flat surface, having previously covered it with polyethylene. After this, a frame made of wooden slats or plastic is placed on it. The height of its sides should be 1-2 centimeters higher than the height of the copied material.

The surface of the tile and the inside of the sides are coated with solid oil or cyatim. You can take the cheapest silicone - acidic. It is squeezed out of the tube into the mold in a spiral, starting from the center to the sides until it is filled.

To prevent the formation of bubbles, the silicone is smoothed with a wide fluted brush. It needs to be dipped in solution detergent for dishes. Soap solution is not suitable here because it is alkaline and can ruin the acidic silicone. After filling the surface future form smooth it with a spatula, also moistening it in detergent.

Dry molds for making artificial stone at room temperature in a ventilated area. The drying rate of the silicone composition is approximately 2 mm per day.

Molding mixtures

Gypsum artificial stone

The mixture for gypsum stone is prepared from gypsum grades G5 - G7. It is made in small portions, counting on simultaneous filling of no more than two forms, since the setting time of this binder does not exceed 10 minutes.

Mixture composition: gypsum, lemon acid to slow down hardening (0.3% of the weight of gypsum), water - 60-70% of the volume of gypsum. The pigment is taken at the rate of 2 to 6% of the weight of the gypsum. The dosage of the coloring substance is selected on test samples of castings.

concrete stone

You can make artificial stone inexpensively and with high quality with your own hands from concrete. Unlike construction, here the initial composition of the components is slightly different: 3 parts of cement are taken for 1 part sand. The proportions of the pigment (you need to use an alkaline resistant one!) are the same as for gypsum stone.

The addition of polymer additives reduces the brittleness of this material and increases its abrasion resistance.

Cold hardening acrylic stone

This material is made on the basis of acrylic resin and hardener. The recommended volume of mineral filler to acrylic is 3:1. The amount of pigment is taken depending on the total weight of the filler (on average from 2 to 6%).

As an inexpensive filler, you can take gravel, stone chips or granite screenings. Before preparing the mixture, the filler is washed with dish gel, then calcined over a fire and rinsed with clean water.

The preparation process consists of three stages: first, the pigment is mixed with the filler. Then the acrylic resin is mixed with a hardener and a filler with pigment is added to it.

The time during which the acrylic mixture must be poured into the mold (from the moment the hardener is introduced into the resin) is no more than 20 minutes. The setting time of the mixture lasts from 30 to 40 minutes. The product requires 24 hours to completely harden.

If you are interested in countertops made of artificial stone, then the best materials They are made from concrete or acrylic. The concrete product is heavier and does not allow you to create surfaces as varied in pattern as when using acrylic resin. However, the low cost of raw materials and the simplicity of the casting process partially compensate for this disadvantage.

Release agents

For different types artificial stone is used various compositions to separate the mold from the product.

For gypsum stone, the optimal solution is one consisting of artificial or natural wax in turpentine in a ratio of 1:7. To do this, add wax shavings in small portions, stirring, to turpentine heated in a water bath to +50 - +60 C.

For concrete stone, conventional lubricants are used (litol, emulsol, cyatim). Before pouring the acrylic composition, the mold is lubricated with a solution of stearin in styrene (proportion 1 to 10) or cyatim.

When using a homemade silicone matrix, it must be protected from deformation that occurs when the hardening gypsum stone and acrylic resin are heated. To do this, before pouring the working mixture, it must be placed in a tray with fine dry sand so that the thickness of its layer is from 2/3 to 3/4 of the height of the mold.

29663 0

The use of artificial stone for finishing facade walls allows you to create original design solutions at low cost. Due to its high performance characteristics, the material is widely used among many developers; it is used both for finishing expensive exclusive facades and budget houses. Moreover, the cost of finishing is almost the same.

You can make artificial stone from gypsum and cement with your own hands. Each of the materials has its own strengths and weaknesses.

For improvement appearance the stone can be painted. This is done in two ways.

The dye is added to the entire composition at once. Powder dyes that are resistant to sunlight are used. The method is most often used in production large quantity material or as required by designers. Advantages of this method:

uniform color of the entire volume of the stone;
mechanical damage is invisible;
uniform color of all stones;
The manufacturing process is accelerated.

Surfaces are painted after removal from the mold. Resistant to solar radiation types of paints, painting is done with brushes, sponges or pneumatic sprayers. Advantages of separate painting:

the ability to give each stone an original appearance;
reduction in production costs;
the ability, if desired, to change the appearance of the facade walls after installation.

A variation of this method is powder coating the internal surfaces of the molds. Apply with a brush a small amount of various shades on the inner surface of the mold, the place of painting does not matter, it all depends on the “artistic” abilities of the manufacturers.

It is advisable to buy ready-made forms in specialized stores, but if for some reason you cannot purchase a ready-made silicone mold, then you can make it yourself.

For manufacturing, you need to prepare even slats with smooth surfaces; for example, we took sections of sandwich panels, they are even, smooth, not afraid of moisture, and silicone does not stick to them. You will need quite a lot of two-component silicone with a hardener. The quantity depends on the size of the molds; you can buy it in online stores or large construction supermarkets. Sold in containers larger than one liter. Forms can be made to match commercially available facing materials or you can choose the topography of the front surface yourself. We will indicate all other accessories and tools along the way. step by step instructions. The technology for using ready-made stones or self-made templates is not much different; we will focus on the second option. It allows you to create any reliefs on the surface.

Step 1. Cut out stone patterns from the planks. The thickness is 8–10 mm, the length and width are at your discretion. Standard sizes 20x5 cm. But this is not necessary, it all depends on what type of stele you plan to decorate the walls with and where exactly to place the artificial stone. There is no need to make it thicker; it is strong enough, and due to its small thickness, material is saved and weight is reduced.

Step 2. Glue corresponding pieces of embossed wallpaper or other elements onto the surface of the templates to create a hill. If it’s difficult for you to come up with something on your own, then buy several ready-made artificial stones in the store and fill the mold using them.

Step 3. Use self-tapping screws to strengthen the walls of the box for filling the mold; if there are gaps, cover them with liquid glue or seal them with single-sided tape. The dimensions of the box are arbitrary and selected taking into account the workpieces.

The distance between individual workpieces is 5 mm. Before installation, check the gaps, they should all be exactly the same. We do not recommend making a mold for halves. Firstly, their required quantity is difficult to predict, and it is not recommended to use extra halves instead of whole ones. Secondly, it is much easier to cut a piece of the required length with a grinder during installation.

Step 4. Draw a horizontal line along the inner perimeter of the walls; it should be approximately 1–1.5 cm above the surface of the templates. This parameter is optimal for saving polyurethane and is sufficient to maintain shape stability.

Step 5. Carefully coat all surfaces that will come into contact with polyurethane with an intermediate layer.

You can take Vaseline or solid oil, buy in stores special liquids etc. We recommend dissolving laundry soap in water and spraying the surfaces with a spray bottle. Simple, cheap, fast and reliable. The same solution can also be used during the manufacture of artificial stones. Soap has another undeniable advantage - it does not leave marks on facial surfaces and, if necessary, can be easily washed off with ordinary water.

Step 6. Prepare polyurethane according to the instructions.

Mix the ingredients very thoroughly; it is better to use an electric mixer. It is difficult to ensure uniform mixing manually, and the quality of the polyurethane largely depends on this. It is better to do the filling in two stages; prepare the material in this way.

Step 7 Align the box strictly horizontally, use a level for this.

Step 8 Slowly and very carefully pour the polyurethane into the box.

Keep track of how much material is needed, this will give you the opportunity to navigate the size of the second portion. Special attention When filling, give space between individual templates, do not allow gaps. After the first stage of pouring polyurethane is completed, lightly tap the edges of the box with a rubber mallet or other non-metallic object to remove air.

Step 9 Prepare the second part of polyurethane and pour it into the box. Pay attention to the horizontal line along the perimeter of the walls. If there is a little polymer left, pour it all out, you will still have to throw it away, and the thickened bottom will not harm during the actual production of stones.

Polyurethane should cure in approximately 4-8 hours, but the exact time depends on the brand.

Practical advice. To prepare large quantities of polyurethane, you need to use accurate electronic scales. The proportions of the components need to be controlled down to the gram, this determines physical characteristics finished form.

If possible, make several forms in the same way. After each excavation has hardened, all surfaces should be covered with an intermediate layer. The forms are ready, you can start making artificial stone.

How to remove the mold

After the polyurethane has hardened, disassemble the walls of the box and begin removing the mold.

If you carefully followed our recommendations, there will be no problems. The form is removed with great effort - try cutting off the polyurethane a little in the gluing areas with a sharp mounting knife. If you find shells and mechanical damage to the front surfaces, do not be discouraged. Problems can be easily fixed with silicone; buy one tube and repair any holes or damage.

Algorithm for manufacturing artificial stone

We have already mentioned that gypsum stones are recommended for interior work. It is better to finish facades with cement-based materials. To make the mixture, use only clean sifted sand, increase the amount of cement by about 30% compared to ordinary masonry mortar. As for consistency, the decision should be made individually. If you have a vibrator, you can make the solution thicker. It is easier to work with a vibrator, and the stone grasps faster. But preparing a special vibrating table for producing stone in small quantities is not economically feasible. In such cases, the solution must be made thinner; the consistency should resemble rich sour cream. You will have to remove air from the stones manually, but the quality will not suffer from this. Of course, if all the work is done responsibly and not in a hurry.

Practice shows that to ensure uninterrupted production of artificial stone from a cement-sand mixture, it is necessary to have molds for approximately one square meter of product.

Step 1. Before pouring, lubricate the inner surfaces of the mold with soapy water. Prepare a solution at the rate of 1:10. The concentration of soap can be increased, but cannot be decreased. To do the job, use an ordinary household spray bottle.

Step 2. Prepare the solution, determine the amount yourself.

Practical advice. To increase the strength of artificial stone, it is recommended to add polypropylene fiber to the solution; one or two small pinches per bucket of solution is enough. Fiber not only increases the strength of the stone, but also minimizes the risk of the formation of air pockets, makes the solution more plastic, and makes it easier to work with such material. It costs a penny and does not have any noticeable impact on the final price of the product.

As we said above, the consistency of the mixture depends on the presence of an electric vibrator.

Step 3. Pour the thoroughly mixed mass into molds. There is a vibrator - turn it on. No device - tap lightly with a hammer from the bottom of the workbench. Do not forget to level the position of the molds horizontally before pouring the solution. We recommend making a special table for pouring and installing it in the desired position.

Practical advice. Don't get carried away by vibration. If the mass is liquid, then during this operation the sand falls down, and this is an extremely undesirable phenomenon.

Step 4. Place the poured forms on prepared racks to allow the solution to mature. The number and size of racks depend on the “capacity” of your production.

Step 5. After the mass has set, begin to release the molds.

Gradually move it to the edge of the tabletop, bend the polypropylene down and take out the artificial stone one by one. If the stone is long, then place the mold on the table in a vertical position, bend the edges and release the stone.

Complete drying can be done outdoors or in any utility room, it all depends on the time of year and weather conditions. Remember that stones made from this material cannot be dried in direct sunlight; concrete must have time to complete chemical processes in a favorable manner.

There are two ways: adding powder dyes to the composition or applying paint to the surface of finished stones. Use iron oxide paints to paint surfaces.

In the photo - powder paint

In terms of quality and price, they satisfy users. If you are making a small number of stones, then you can use multi-colored acrylic pigments; they are diluted in any primer. The paint adheres well to the surface and has good performance characteristics. It is better to paint with a pneumatic spray gun; if you don’t have one, use a brush. Follow three rules:

the base should be the lightest of all the colors used;
make the seams the darkest;
When dyeing, use no more than three colors or shades thereof.

First paint the base of the stones, then the seams, the surface decoration is done last. That's all, the material is ready, you can start laying it on the surface of the facade walls. Always remember one rule: without theory there is no practice, and without practice there is never a quality product.

Practical advice. While the paint is not completely dry, wipe the surface of the stones with a slightly damp hoe. Due to this, the front side will take more natural look, minor mechanical damage will become less noticeable.

Installing artificial stone on walls

To complete the work, you will need a level, a mixer, a grinder with a diamond blade, a rubber mallet, a metal brush, a spatula, a trowel, a tape measure, a container for glue and primer, a syringe for grouting joints, wedges for maintaining the same width of the joints and a tool for jointing them. Consumables you need to buy are glue, primer and grout. The stone is fixed to the plastered facade walls.

Step 1. Clean the surfaces and level them if necessary. There is no need to level it too much; unevenness of a few millimeters will be eliminated using glue directly during laying of the artificial stone.

Step 2. Prime surfaces thoroughly. You should not skip this operation; a correctly selected primer significantly increases the adhesion of the adhesive to the plaster. And for heavy artificial stone made of cement-sand mortar, this is very important.

Step 3. Place the stones on a flat surface in the order in which you plan to fix them. During laying, do not allow sharp transitions in color; select stones taking into account the color and shades. Take the dimensions and transfer them to the wall surface.

Step 4. Mark the location of the stone on the wall. Use a level and carefully check that the lines are horizontal.

Step 5. Check for the presence of cement laitance on the back of the stones; if it is found, remove it with a wire brush. Cement laitance causes poor adhesion.

Step 6. Prepare the glue according to the manufacturer's instructions and mix it thoroughly with a mixer. After stirring, let it sit for 5 minutes and stir a little again.

Step 7 Start laying stone from the corners. Apply the glue with a comb spatula. If the surfaces have large unevenness, then increase the thickness of the glue and apply it with a spatula along the entire perimeter of the stone.

Practical advice. If the walls are finished in very hot weather, then reverse side moisten artificial stone with water. Use an ordinary wide brush.

Step 8 Mark the position of each row on the wall, use a rope with blue. The lines make it possible to control the stone laying process. Place planks under the bottom row or nail them to the wall. The first stones should lie on them, otherwise they will gradually fall down under their own weight. Try to apply glue to the entire surface of the stone. This is necessary to prevent the appearance of condensation in the voids or the ingress of atmospheric moisture. In winter, the water will freeze, which will cause individual stones to fall out.

Step 9 Check the position of the tile with a level and press it firmly into the mass.

Practical advice. It is very easy to check the quality of stone laying. Tap it with a wooden hammer or the handle of a screwdriver; a “drum” sound indicates the presence of voids. And this is marriage.

Step 10 Remove any mortar that appears in the seams using any available device. If it gets on the front surface, immediately remove it with a damp cloth. The stone is laid with jointing - do not forget to use linings to control the width of the joints. Stone can be laid without seams, but this requires solid practical skills. We do not advise beginners to choose such a complex method of cladding facade walls; lay them with gaps. They allow you to discreetly correct nuts and straighten rows of stone.

Step 11 After finishing the masonry, start unstitching the seams. This is an equally important stage and requires attentiveness and accuracy. It is difficult to reach the seams of artificial stone with your hands; you need to use a special gun. This gun is used to squeeze silicone out of tubes. Buy cement grout that imitates masonry mortar, insert the tube into the gun, and cut the spout at an angle. Apply grout carefully, do not allow any gaps, the amount depends on the size of the joints. If you want to visually emphasize the stonework, then use colored grouts. The depth of filling the seams is at least five millimeters; this is the only way to guarantee their tightness.

Natural stone has been used in building and interior decoration for thousands of years. However, now such material is very expensive. However, there is a way out. You can make an artificial stone with your own hands, and it will be practically no different from natural stone. The price of such a product will be much lower than a natural one.

Using stone in interior decoration allows you to achieve completely unexpected results. You can decorate the room in the style of a knight's castle, a fireplace framed by slate will look especially attractive, and columns trimmed with stone will be beautiful.

However, for all its wealth of shapes and colors, natural stone also has disadvantages. These include:

high price;
heavy weight, not every wall can withstand such additional load;
significant transportation costs.

In order to be able to use stone in interior decoration and overcome the described disadvantages, the technology for manufacturing artificial stone was created.

Cladding using artificial stone

Externally, natural and artificial stone are practically indistinguishable, at the same time, the latter is devoid of all the disadvantages of natural stone and can be made with imitation to suit any natural stone, and even its texture is repeated. According to the type of surface, artificial stone can be:

chipped, as if beaten with a hammer and having an uneven surface and edges;
sawn, having smooth, even edges;
rubble, reminiscent of ordinary natural boulders;
arbitrary, embodying the designer’s fantasies in form and surface;
decorative.

For specific design tasks, a wide variety of surfaces may be required - for finishing a fireplace, arches, columns. Rocks with nautical themes, such as shell marks, may be required. So, when making artificial stone with your own hands, you can get exactly what is needed according to the requirements of the plan for finishing a specific surface. One of the most popular types of stone is slate.

What is artificial stone made from?

Strange as it may seem, there are several methods for making stone. different options. One technology uses cement, fine sand, and water. According to another, they are made of plaster or alabaster. There is a manufacturing option when polymer materials are used as a binder. Therefore, the composition of artificial stone for production on your own can be determined based on the available materials and capabilities for producing stone.
The entire manufacturing procedure is not overly complicated and can be performed by anyone with some effort and careful adherence to technology. This doesn’t even require special conditions; work can be done directly in the apartment. Therefore, the material proposed below can be perceived as a kind of instruction for making artificial stone.

Manufacturing process

The main materials for making stone, as noted above, are cement and gypsum, or alabaster. In any option, using gypsum or cement, making artificial stone with your own hands begins with selecting an initial sample and creating a mold in which the stone will be cast in the future.

Having several such models, you can quickly produce required amount stone As a model stone, it would be justified to purchase several stone samples of suitable shape and size in a store.

Although you can also use commercially available ready-made silicone models. They are a ready-made kit for making artificial stone.

How to make a model

The production of the mold begins with the selection of a sample, for the role of which a stone of suitable shape and size is selected. Silicone is used for the mold in which the stone will be cast later. Make or use a suitable sized box, few larger size sample stone. This box will serve as formwork.
It and the selected stone must be coated with a thick layer of grease or some other lubricant. The stone is placed at the bottom of the box. Several such formworks and forms need to be made to increase productivity.

After this, silicone is poured into the formwork. To compact it, it is compacted with ordinary paint brush moistened with soapy water. For the latter, you can use regular Fairy. After filling the mold with silicone, the surface is leveled with a spatula moistened with Fairy.
The poured forms dry for two to three weeks, after which the formwork is disassembled, the sample stone is removed, and ready-made silicone molds for artificial stone are obtained. If there are small defects on the surface, they are sealed with silicone.
The truth exists here too Alternative option making the mold, but we can return to this a little later, after we fully consider the technology that has been started for manufacturing artificial stone.

Extraction from cement

At this stage, the work is performed in several passes. Initially, cement and sand are mixed for the first layer in a ratio of 3:1, everything is mixed until a homogeneous mixture is formed. Desired color obtained by adding dyes, approximately 2-3% of the amount of cement, but this must be established experimentally. Add water to the finished mixture and stir until it is approximately thick like sour cream; the dyes are mixed with water.

The resulting mixture is poured into the mold about halfway and compacted by tapping and shaking for about a minute. Then a metal mesh is placed on top of the finished mortar to give additional strength to the stone and filled with a second layer of mortar. To save money, you don’t have to add dye to the second batch of concrete.

After pouring, make small grooves on the top layer of the mortar with a nail or any stick for better adhesion to the wall during installation. As can be seen from the described technology, it is quite simple and allows you to do without special equipment for the production of artificial stone.

After twelve hours, the stone is removed from the mold and left to dry and gain strength for two weeks. After removing the stone, the mold is washed with Fairy; this procedure must be repeated after each pour.

Manufacturing from gypsum

It should be noted that the production of artificial stone from gypsum is carried out in the same sequence. There are only nuances related to the fact that gypsum hardens quickly. Therefore, it must be prepared as much as is needed to make one stone, then a new portion must be diluted. To slow down the setting, citric acid can be added to the plaster.

The holding time for the material to harden will be different; this procedure takes several tens of minutes. Before pouring gypsum into the mold, it is necessary to lubricate it with oil so that the finished stone can be easily removed from the mold.

If you have the desire and opportunity, then using the described technology you can organize the production of artificial stone with your own hands. Moreover, stone made from cement can be used for both interior and exterior decoration.

Artificial stone coloring

When making the stone, we added dye to its composition. However, you can simply paint it after making it. For this you need special paint and a brush of any size. The painting process is as follows:

it is necessary to wipe the surface of the stone with a clean rag and remove sand, dust, cement;
apply an even layer of paint to the front surface with a brush;
After the paint has dried, a second and third layer can be applied to achieve the desired shade.

Alternative manufacturing options and training materials

Now you can consider the option of how to make an artificial stone without using a sample and silicone. All this is shown in the video:

As can be seen from the above example, you can do without any expensive materials at all.
It should be noted that stone can be made using ready-made kits. They include ready-made polyurethane mold. How to make such products with its help, in the following video:

Artificial stone, installation

Artificial stone can be mounted on virtually any surface, including wood and plasterboard. When installing stone on wood, special surface preparation will be required; additional moisture insulation and sheathing will be necessary. At the same time, when installing stone on brick or concrete, no additional work is required, only leveling the surface.

Fastening the stone to the wall can be done using cement mortar or using special adhesive solutions or special types glue. Installation can be done with or without jointing.

When installing with jointing, a gap remains between the stones; its size should not exceed 2.5 centimeters, which is then filled with grout. This option is more economical, but for some types of stone laying with jointing is simply not suitable; they need to be laid only completely.

Before installation begins, the stones are laid out on the floor and their best location is selected, adjusting to each other if necessary.

Laying stone begins with corner elements, then around window and door openings. And only after this the installation of horizontal rows is carried out.

The process of installing stone can be seen in the video:

It should be noted that additional care for surfaces lined with artificial stone is not required. As a protective measure, you can protect the wall from excessive moisture. This is done using special compounds. After application, they make the stone water-repellent.

Do-it-yourself artificial stone is an excellent opportunity to achieve very impressive results in interior decoration by using such an extraordinary material. And you can do all this yourself without significant costs or the use of special equipment.

The construction market offers a variety of products made using latest technologies. It contains interesting combinations of materials that produce striking visual results.

In this article we will talk about such a finishing material as decorative gypsum stone and its use for interior and exterior decoration.

Gypsum facing stone and its properties

Even in ancient times, craftsmen from India, China, and Egypt used gypsum for exterior and interior decoration. Plaster was used to cover walls, floors and ceilings in various rooms.

Such widespread use is explained by its uniqueness: the mineral stone had the ability to regulate the microclimate of rooms due to good air conductivity.

Currently, facing decorative artificial stone is a composite material, which includes high-strength gypsum. Due to its qualities, it received the name “gypsum polymer stone”.

Properties of decorative gypsum stone:

small specific gravity;
material strength;
environmental friendliness;
ease of processing;
high level sound and thermal insulation;
maintains the required level of humidity;
fire resistance.

Thanks to its interesting texture and aesthetic appearance, decorative stone is suitable for the interior of any room.

The stone is used to cover the internal and external surfaces of walls, both in children's rooms. It looks great when finished with design elements and is absolutely safe.

The fine dispersion of gypsum and the ease of its processing make it possible to create a variety of architectural forms consisting of interesting elements.

The low specific gravity promotes the use of decorative stone even in the cladding of thin partitions between rooms.

Walls lined with artificial gypsum stone are easy to clean and practically do not become dirty. The only drawback of this material is its hygroscopicity.

Making artificial stone from gypsum with your own hands

As a rule, professional production of artificial stone from gypsum occurs in a factory. However, it is quite possible to make it yourself.

Some craftsmen have turned the interesting and exciting activity of making decorative stone into a quite profitable business. Moreover, without large investments and with minimal effort, its production pays off in a short time.

If certain rules are followed and high-quality raw materials are used, such activities are promising and quite profitable.

The use of natural gypsum in pure form not advisable, since the products have low strength and are short-lived. Modern technologies offer the production of compositions from modified gypsum that have high strength and retain the qualities of the natural material.

Technology for manufacturing decorative artificial stone from gypsum

Not everyone can afford natural stone cladding, as it has a high cost. Therefore, it is more rational to use artificial stone made of gypsum or cement, which contains various color pigments, as well as polymer materials.

Required material and tools

Plaster is white;
A container, preferably made of plastic, for mixing components;
Pallet;
Table and polyethylene roll;
Forms (matrices);
Electric drill;
Fluted glass;
Any water-based dyes.

Preparation of the workplace

To produce stone, large working areas are not required. Two square meters is enough.

We will provide in advance workplace table There should be racks with shelves at hand where all the necessary elements and equipment will be placed.

Preparing forms

Attention should be paid to the forms themselves (matrices). The most optimal are silicone molds. They are quite flexible and plastic. But forms made of metal, wood, and plastic are also acceptable, although they do not so thoroughly convey the texture of plaster, which reflects the smallest details of the relief and its bends.

Preparation of materials

After preparing the workplace and equipment, we prepare the material. For the gypsum test we need mineral gypsum, anhydride, and clean water. This will form the basis of the plaster test. Sand or similar filler is also prepared.

The process of making stone from gypsum

Preparing gypsum dough

In order to save money, the volume of the solution should correspond to the number of forms.

Since gypsum dough hardens very quickly, you cannot leave the mixed solution for the next time.

We independently determine the proportion of gypsum and water. After pouring water into the container, gradually add gypsum and stir continuously until the gypsum dough reaches normal thickness.

The consistency of the solution should be thick, since segments made from a liquid solution are less durable and take a long time to dry. To make the material stronger, add about 10% sand.

Processing forms (matrices)

We lubricate the working surface of the molds with a surfactant (a mixture of wax and turpentine 3:7), this is done so that the finished (frozen) stone can then be easily removed.

This mixture can be made using a water bath, which promotes uniform and complete dissolution of the wax. The mixture is applied in a thin layer to the inner surface of the mold.

Next, to protect the stone from the formation of shells, we apply liquid gypsum to the working surface of the molds.

Place the prepared forms in a tray.

Creating Color

Mix the desired dyes with gypsum. We use separate containers for this.

We pour the resulting shades into molds. As a result, we get a rather heterogeneous color.

Pouring plaster

After this, we pour the bulk of the gypsum.

Using a spatula, carefully level the plaster. We cover the molds with pre-prepared corrugated glass, and then subject it to vibration for even laying. This procedure will take approximately 2 minutes.

The hardening time of the gypsum is approximately 15-20 minutes. When the glass freely separates from the molds, remove the products and dry them in the open air.

How to lay decorative gypsum stone

When fixing such gypsum tiles to the base (for example, a wall), the contacting surfaces are primed.

After this, glue the gypsum stone. Suitable glues include mastic, assembly glue, water-acrylic glue, a mixture of gypsum and PVA, sealant, and cement-adhesive mortar.

You can change the geometric parameters of such a workpiece using an ordinary hacksaw.

One of the articles has already discussed the process of how it is performed, which, in fact, you can familiarize yourself with.

In fact, making decorative stone from gypsum is not difficult. Of course, “the first pancake is lumpy” cannot be ruled out, but nevertheless, the result is worth it.

A rich imagination and flight of fancy will help you find original color solutions and textures (you can even make artificial marble from plaster). Thanks to this decoration, your home will be filled with a unique flavor, and elements decorated with its help will add extraordinary comfort and beauty to the interior.

Making artificial stone from gypsum - video

Decorative stone made of gypsum - photo in the interior

Finishing surfaces with natural stone has always been highly valued in terms of aesthetics, variety of choice, and as the most reliable and durable. But the use of such an undoubtedly excellent material has a number of limitations that do not allow the use of these products everywhere. This is especially true for the private sector. After all, only wealthy people can clad their house both inside and outside with natural stone, but the average developer cannot afford it. Why?

Firstly, high-quality natural stone is expensive. Not least because it is mined only in certain regions.
Secondly, products made from it are heavy. Consequently, it will be necessary to build a more reliable foundation (or strengthen the old one), carry out a number of additional measures, and this also requires significant material investments.
Third, it is impossible to independently process such samples without special tools, and installation without assistants (given the mass of the panels) will not be possible.

As an alternative to this finishing material, samples that are obtained as a result of hardening of the corresponding mixture are widely used. Various substances are used as components. One of the most popular types of such cladding is artificial stone made from gypsum.

Features of decorative gypsum stone

Microclimate regulation.
High environmental properties of finished products.
Surfaces covered with such tiles retain the ability to “breathe”.
Easy to process and attach.
Possibility of cladding in any room, without restrictions.
Achieved high degree noise and heat insulation.
Availability of technology, which allows the production of products the desired shape, dimensions at home.
Relatively low costs for self-production.
Giving any building a magnificent appearance, a variety of design options (color, texture).

Artificial stone manufacturing technology

Preparation of formwork

Forms can be purchased, but the cost of such “templates” starts from 2,700 rubles / piece, while on self-production more than 800 - 1,000 rubles will not be needed. How many of them to make depends on the time allotted for production. It is clear that one form will significantly slow down this process, and the samples (stones) will turn out completely identical. Therefore, the quantity is determined by the finishing features (tile size, texture) and material capabilities.

You must first find a sample from which “copies” will be made. It can be any natural stone you like, including commercially available ones. The dimensions of the form should be slightly larger than its dimensions. What's the point? Artificial stone is produced by pouring the prepared mixture into a “template”, which is a frozen silicone matrix. This is what needs to be made. How it's done?

Formwork for silicone is being prepared. The choice of material for it is large - pieces of PVC panels, plywood (moisture resistant) and the like. You just need to consider how many samples will need to be made and whether the mold made of this material will hold up.

Preparing for pouring

An artificial stone made by yourself will, as indicated, be an exact copy of the selected natural one. It is placed in the formwork (strictly in the center) and a “separating” layer is applied on top. This surface treatment is necessary to prevent adhesion to the silicone. It is more convenient (and cheaper) to carry it out with grease, which coats the entire inside of the formwork, including the sample. CIATIM lubricant is often used, but it is quite expensive.

The frame is installed on a thick P/E film. Naturally, the base must be extremely even. The edges of the formwork must be pressed tightly against it to prevent the silicone from spreading.

Making the “matrix”

In addition to sealants (they are quite expensive, and you will need a lot), there is silicone on sale, which is precisely intended for such purposes (making templates). During the pouring process, it is necessary to control the uniform distribution of the mass over the entire area. You can correct something with a brush, moistening it in a solution of any detergent. But only on the condition that it contains no alkali. Therefore, using laundry soap (if citric acid is added to the mixture) is not recommended.

The thickness of the template must be selected based on the dimensions of the sample and the long-term use of this form. After the mass has dried, it is removed from the formwork and inspected. Sinks can be sealed with the same silicone, and the resulting protrusions can be easily smoothed out (cut off).

It should be taken into account that silicone hardens completely (over its entire depth) slowly. According to experts, a layer of 1 cm will take at least a week. Therefore, you need to take this into account and allow the template to “sit out” in the formwork. This period can be shortened somewhat if you keep the frame in a warm room. Trying to achieve rapid hardening by force (heating) is not recommended.

The approximate cost of such a template is from 220 to 280 rubles. It can cast up to 40 tile samples (depending on accuracy).

Preparing and pouring the mixture

It is clear that a silicone mold is installed in the frame instead of stone. The gypsum mixture is not in short supply and is sold in any specialized store. Main question– what should artificial stone tiles made from gypsum be like? Dyed or natural (white)? It is cheaper to produce surface painting of products, but its durability will be low. A better tinting method (but also relatively expensive) is to add dye to the mixture.

Such substances are expensive, so it is advisable (to save money) to do the filling in 2 stages and also prepare 2 compositions, to one of which the dye is added. First, the painted mixture is poured, which needs to be compacted. The easiest way is with a wire, which is used to pierce the mass over the entire area in order to remove air.

The second (unpainted) mixture is poured on top, since it forms the back of the panels, which (including the side edges) will not be visible after installation. It also becomes denser.

The samples can be given increased strength. To do this, reinforcing material (mesh for plastering) is placed on the 1st layer of the poured mass. In addition, you can prepare the mixture not from pure gypsum, but with the addition of cement. Its brand doesn't matter. The approximate ratio is 2 hours of gypsum and 1 hour of cement.

In order to improve the quality of the “adhesion” of the decorative stone made by hand with the surface to be finished, slits (in the form of longitudinal strips) are applied to the upper part of the hardening mass. And right away, since the mixture “sets” quite quickly. The approximate time for the tiles to be fully ready for use is about 1 hour.

This artificial stone made of gypsum (without cement) is more suitable for interior decoration. Its use for cladding buildings involves a number of measures to protect the material from atmospheric influences (additional impregnation with a primer, surface treatment, for example, with varnishes). Options include introducing plasticizers (polymers) into the mixture, using a solution of cement (1 hour) + sand (3 hours).
Substances intended for concrete solutions are used as coloring components. The ratio (by weight) between gypsum and dye is 20 to 1.
After removing the finished tile from the mold, the template is thoroughly washed each time with a soapy solution.
If it is necessary to increase the “setting” time of the mixture, citric acid is introduced into its composition (based on the total mass of about 0.4%).
To make tiles at home, it is enough to prepare 4 templates for each type (size).
This technology is quite suitable for the production of a variety of shaped products that can decorate any room.