Enzyme peeling- This is a gentle superficial exfoliation of dead cells using enzymes. At the same time, they dissolve secretions of sweat and sebaceous glands and protein contaminants. In this case, the granules do not affect the skin. After peeling, a new, flawlessly smooth layer of skin is revealed. Enzyme cleansing is a very gentle and gentle procedure.

Video - Enzyme peeling based on 4 herbal ingredients

Benefits of Enzyme Peeling

The skin of the face is constantly exposed to stress. When a person goes outside, he is immediately exposed to many factors (sun rays, dust, etc.). As a result, the skin becomes dirty, spots, peeling, and pigmentation may appear. It starts from the sun's rays premature aging, and the first wrinkles and other external defects appear.

Basically, all of the above does not affect the deep layers of the dermis, but remains on its surface. The skin renews itself approximately once a month. Thanks to peeling, this happens faster and at the same time helps to get rid of other imperfections.

Enzymes are the main active substances, otherwise called enzymes. They break down fat in the intestines into small particles for the convenience of the digestive system.

Enzymes also work on the skin. Enzymes are taken from natural sources (such as fruits) and revitalize the skin, restoring its healthy looking. Enzyme facial peeling has a great advantage over similar chemical procedures, as it gently stimulates the renewal of the dermis:

• quickly weakens intercellular connections;
• cleanses pores;
• natural enzymes do not damage the surface of the dermis;
• enzymes are suitable for any skin type.

Natural enzymes are essential substances for sensitive and dry skin. Chemical peels For these types of dermis, they are too aggressive and can damage the surface layers. After using enzyme cleansing on dark skin, pigmentation does not appear on it.

The chosen product dictates the method of application - with a brush or massaging movements

Enzymes for peeling

Enzymes that are used for peeling can be of three types. The most popular plant origins:

1. Papain is isolated from papaya fruits and leaves. The enzyme has anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects. It removes dead skin flakes well. Papain helps normalize the functioning of the sebaceous glands and prevents the appearance of pustules and comedones.
2. The enzyme bromelain is found in wild lemon and pineapple. Helps remove acne, relieves inflammation.
3. Arbutin comes from a mixture of blueberries and bearberry.
4. Actinidin is found in kiwi fruits.

Enzyme peeling mask based on natural honey- an inexpensive and simple cosmetic product that allows you to cleanse pores, which prevents the appearance of skin rashes and acne.

Among enzymes of animal origin, trypsin, contained in the pancreas, is popular. It helps reduce puffiness around the eyes and fights inflammatory processes. Pepsin is extracted from the stomach mucous membranes of animals. These enzymes break down proteins.

From enzymes bacterial origin the most popular are subtilisin and travaza. They have antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory effects. They loosen the skin well, exfoliate it and whiten pores.

Indications and contraindications for peeling

Peeling is indicated for fine wrinkles, pigmentation and freckles. Cleansing is done for sensitive, porous and loose skin. And also when she ages. Peeling is done when there are blackheads and enlarged skin pores. Contraindications for enzyme cleansing A little:

• diabetes;
• warts;
• bacterial and fungal skin diseases;
• molluscum contagiosum.

Peeling is not done if there are any diseases that have significantly reduced immunity. The procedure is prohibited if any components of the product can cause allergic reactions.

Salicylic peeling

A whole line is offered for the procedure various means containing, in addition to enzymes, fruit acids. Salicylic enzyme peeling is very popular. The drug has no age restrictions for use, copes with acne, and renews cells.

Salicylic enzyme peeling Stopproblem is used to treat rosacea. The effect is achieved by reducing the threshold of skin sensitivity to external influences. It increases the level of hydration of the skin and significantly reduces the intensity of redness. The vascular network becomes less pronounced.

Enzyme peeling Stopproblem is used in two ways. According to the instructions, the product is applied to the skin in an even thin layer. After removing the peeling, a moisturizer is applied to the skin.

Before deep cleansing, the procedure according to the instructions is carried out three times. During this time it is checked skin reaction body. For deep cleaning face, you will need cling film in which holes are made for the eyes, mouth and nose. Peeling is applied to the face in a thin layer. Then the product is covered with cling film. The peeling remains on the face for 15 to 20 minutes.

Stopproblem – salicylic enzyme peeling. The product is made by different manufacturers, so there is a wide range of choices available. The masks contain enzymes in the form of dry extracts of vegetable and fruit juices.

For oily skin, products containing enzymes and salicylic acid. For mature dermis, peelings and masks containing, in addition to enzymes, lactic acid and grape extract are more suitable. They give the skin elasticity and at the same time act as antioxidants.

Peeling GiGi

Enzyme peeling GiGi is made in the form of a gel. The product helps soften the skin, deeply exfoliates dead cells and cleanses the dermis. The peeling contains:

• papain;
• amylase;
• vitamin C;
• lemon acid;
• lipase;
• urea;
• protease.

Peeling can be applied in three ways. The enzymatic agent is applied according to the usual scheme: for 10-15 minutes. Before using enzymatic peeling with vaporization, the face is thoroughly cleansed and steamed. Then the product is applied to the skin for 10 minutes. In the same way, the face is prepared for some other cosmetic procedures.

In the third option, peeling with massage is done. The gel is applied to the already steamed face. Then a light massage is done for 40 minutes.

Peels for home and salon use

In addition to the remedies described just above, there are many similar and no less effective. The most popular peelings:

1. Enzyme peeling Mirra is made on the basis of papain. The product is applied to clean skin face for 15-20 minutes. Then it is washed off with water. After this, the skin is moisturized nourishing cream.
2. Jansen is an enzyme peeling made in the form of a gel. It contains a bacterial enzyme - subtilisin. Jansen is also used as a preparatory agent for the subsequent application of deep peeling.
3. Enzyme peeling Evelyn is recommended for dry and sensitive skin. The product relieves irritation, restores the elasticity and firmness of the dermis, and stimulates cell regeneration. The peeling contains papaya enzymes, hyaluronic acid, almond oil and witch hazel extract. Additionally added natural betaine. Peeling is applied according to the standard scheme for 10-15 minutes.
4. Enzyme peeling Holy Land is a very soft, gentle product suitable for any skin type. The gel copes well not only with cell renewal, but also with itching in the irritated dermis. The peeling contains amino acids and milk proteins. The gel is used not only for quick procedures, but also for longer ones, if time permits.
5. Enzyme peeling 3D collagen is highly effective. The product contains no fragrances, hormones or dyes. The peeling is made on the basis of three-helical native collagen. The product is presented in a wide range - with glycolic acid, kaolin, collagenase, etc.

Enzyme peeling is easy to do at home: a recipe with glycolic acid is done in a few minutes. Pour a quarter cup of white cane sugar into a bowl. With constant stirring, add lemon juice until you get a homogeneous mass. The resulting mixture is applied to the face and distributed evenly over the skin.

Peeling at home

Enzyme peeling at home is done according to the same scheme as salon treatments. First, the skin is tested for sensitivity to the product. Then the face is thoroughly cleaned with tonic. Peeling is applied according to the instructions. The length of time you keep the product on your face can vary - from 10 minutes to half an hour. This is stated in the instructions included with the peeling.

To enhance the effect, the face is covered with a film with slits for the mouth, eyes and nose. After cleansing, the face is washed with warm water. Then the skin is wiped with a soothing tonic.

Peeling is done no more than once a week. If the procedure is done more often, then instead of a positive effect you may get a bad result - the skin will become dry and dehydrated. Irritation will appear on your face. When peeling is strictly performed according to the manufacturer's instructions, complications and side effects not visible.

Video - Glossy skin after enzyme peeling

In general, with acid peels Things didn’t work out for me - but, in principle, I didn’t try anything significant. I have a slightly angry review about peeling from OrganicShop in my drafts.

What is the difference between acid peeling and enzyme peeling? Well, from the names themselves it is clear - acidic acts with the help of acids, and enzymatic - with enzymes (protein enzymes). Enzyme is considered softer than acidic, which is what won me over. In addition, for rosacea, enzyme peeling is indicated, not acid peeling.

Smells peeling with clay is good - I was afraid that it would smell like papain, because the peeling does not contain fragrances. And papain itself (I have it in pure form) smells quite unpleasant.

How to use:

First, you can make a course of 7-14 masks. In the future, apply 1-2 times every 7-10 days.

Compound:

linden hydrolate, kaolin, papain, bromelain, organic preservative

Papain and bromelain are the same enzymes that cause peeling. It would, however, be nice if the manufacturer also wrote the exact name of the preservative.

Application and effect.

The peeling uses kaolin as a base - purified White clay. Again, high-quality kaolin differs in application from ordinary clay, which is sold in sachets at the pharmacy * yes, I also have pure kaolin *. What is used here is that it is kaolin, and not clay, this is clearly felt from the ideal consistency product – smooth, sour cream. Although the water part still separates a little - it is literally a few milliliters that are on the surface of the clay.

Peeling applied just perfect: there are no lumps in it and it is used extremely sparingly * it will definitely last me three months *.

Apply to *preferably steamed* skin for 15-20 minutes. There is no tingling during the process and no redness after.

After rinsing and drying, the skin is significantly softer and smoother. This is very surprising - such a mild product gives such an ideal effect. The course of enzyme peeling significantly helped me reduce inflammation - the rate of skin renewal increases. My complexion has also improved.

Basically, everything that I expected from an enzyme peeling - (and everything that the manufacturer stated) the peeling does. As for blackheads, I use another wonderful remedy for them, which I’ll write about someday, so I don’t face such a problem.

Overall, this is an excellent two-in-one product: both peeling and clay mask.)

Pros:

❤ composition

❤ makes skin soft and smooth

❤ improves complexion

❤ accelerates regeneration

Cons not detected

If most cosmetic procedures can be attributed to aggressive methods impact on the skin, then enzyme peeling does not harm the skin. Enzymes are enzymes that cleanse it of toxins. More precisely, these are vitamins that break down harmful substances directly on the surface skin.

The keratinized particles dissolve without exposure to acids and other irritants. Enzyme peeling has a rejuvenating effect; it eliminates many problems that are often associated with improper care. The surface layer is smoothed, its tone increases.

Enzyme peeling of the skin is a superficial cleansing using natural enzymes. The catalysts in this case are natural ingredients, which are similar in composition to epidermal cells. In a beauty salon, this procedure costs from 300 to 5 thousand rubles. At the same time, you can do such peeling at home, on your own, and we will also talk about this in this article.

Enzyme peeling: what is it?

This procedure is aimed at cleansing and removing dead skin particles from the upper layer of skin. This allows living cells to function better. During peeling, pores are cleared of impurities, blackheads disappear, and skin texture is evened out. Unlike other types of peeling, enzyme peeling is the safest, but at the same time not inferior to other procedures in effectiveness. Skin cell renewal is underway naturally, which is facilitated by enzymes.

Kinds

Enzyme peeling can be of two types - salon and home. For the latter type, special preparations are produced, which today can be purchased in cosmetic stores and salons.

Enzyme facial peeling performed in a salon is often much more effective than home peeling, since in this case stronger and more active drugs are used that can only be used by a specialist. Deep enzyme peeling, according to reviews from beautiful ladies, eliminates dead skin cells, gets rid of age spots, various neoplasms on the surface of the skin, dissolves exfoliated scales, thereby preventing re-clogging of pores.

Effect on skin

Natural protein catalysts can be divided into several categories. Their action is primarily aimed at accelerating metabolic processes. Enzyme peeling mask contains catalysts that affect the rate of breakdown of fats, proteins, and carbohydrates.

Human skin has its own enzymes that are actively involved in the formation of cells and the separation of dead skin cells. Living cells stop holding them and the scales easily peel off. In youth, these processes in the body occur unnoticed by a person and quite quickly. But over time, the activity of these enzymes decreases. Skin, or rather, her upper layer, becomes rougher, dirt accumulates in the pores. Cells stop receiving adequate nutrition, the skin fades, wrinkles, enlarged pores and other defects form on it.

Enzyme peeling accelerates the breakdown of protein - keratin. Living cells are saturated with oxygen, metabolism returns to normal. Upon completion of the procedure, the skin acquires an even texture, healthy color face, fine wrinkles disappear.

Enzymes

The composition of cosmetics used in enzyme peeling includes one or more catalysts. Read about the most important of them below.

Papain

It is produced from papaya. This is an enzyme that softens the upper layer of the epidermis and promotes its separation. The substance has a powerful antibacterial effect, and therefore reliably protects open pores from infection.

Bromelain

Component obtained from pineapple. It is able to destroy protein peptide bonds and quickly separates the stratum corneum of the skin. Has a restorative and anti-inflammatory effect.

Pepsin

This enzyme is of animal origin. It is extracted from the stomach tissue of a young calf. The substance easily breaks down the proteins of dead cells to the level of peptide particles. Then they peel off and are removed from the surface of the skin.

Trypsin

Another enzyme with a similar effect. It is extracted from cow tissue. It easily removes peptides and breaks down proteins.

Lysozyme

This component is made from chicken egg white extract. This component affects immune system, has antibacterial, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory effects.

Subtilisin

This enzyme, when it comes into contact with the skin, causes mild fermentation, stimulating the proliferation of certain bacteria. These microorganisms disrupt the bonds between proteins. It acts very actively, removing the top layer of dead skin.

Casein

An enzyme obtained from cow's milk. Helps nourish cells, moisturize the skin and soften its top layer.

Grass

A special enzyme of bacterial nature. Bacteria actively loosen the surface layers of the skin, causing slight peeling. With its help, the skin whitens.

Sorbaine

Obtained from lemon and papaya fruits. Promotes softening of the skin, more active metabolism in cells.

Ficin

An effective enzyme obtained from figs. Promotes more active collagen production and removal of dead cells.

Like the vast majority of cosmetic procedures, enzyme peeling also has its indications. You already know what it is, now let’s figure out when such skin cleansing is indicated. It will help solve the following skin problems:

• remove comedones, age spots, freckles;
• get rid of enlarged pores;
• restore elasticity;
• remove fine wrinkles, acne and its consequences;
• improve the terrain;
• stop aging.

Contraindications

Despite the fact that this is one of the most gentle cosmetic procedures, it has contraindications. Among them:

• violation of the integrity of the skin (wounds, abrasions, bruises, cuts);
• warts;
• herpes;
• skin fungus;
• allergic reactions;
• inflamed acne;
• acne during exacerbation;
• diabetes.

Before the procedure, an allergic reaction test must be performed to identify sensitivity to one or more peeling components.

Frequency of procedures

How often can enzyme peeling be performed? Many visitors to beauty salons know that this is a procedure that helps to heal and rejuvenate the skin. The frequency of this depends on the condition of your skin. Up to the age of thirty, it is recommended according to the indications of a cosmetologist, for excess oily skin. After thirty years, enzyme peeling is recommended once every two weeks. After forty years, the procedure is carried out once a week.

In addition, the condition of the skin should be taken into account. For those with sensitive and extremely dry skin, this procedure is recommended no more than once every two weeks. Normal, combination skin requires the same schedule. But when oily skin Peeling is necessary every seven to ten days.

You should not get too carried away with this procedure: the surface layer of the skin may be dehydrated and natural enzymes will not be able to fully perform their functions.

Peeling at home

Products for performing enzyme peeling at home are safer; they do not require strict supervision by a cosmetologist, but at the same time they act more gently. To carry out the procedure at home you need:

• cleanse facial skin of cosmetics and impurities;
• make a steam bath;
• apply a pre-peeling solution and then a peeling cosmetic;
• leave the composition on the skin for twenty minutes;
• in the absence of burning or other discomfort it can be left on the skin for half an hour;
• rinse off the product with warm water.

Upon completion of the procedure, the skin should be soothed with a moisturizing nourishing cream. For some time after you wash off the enzyme peeling mask, you will experience a slight tingling and burning sensation. The skin will turn a little pink.

Where to buy peeling products?

Such products for self-use can be purchased at the pharmacy. They all differ in price, effectiveness, and composition. Such funds can cost from 180 to 5 thousand rubles. Today in salons you can buy and professional peeling, but in this case a preliminary consultation with a cosmetologist is necessary. Let's look at some popular drugs

Salicylic peeling

The active components in this composition are enzyme enzymes supplemented with salicylic acid. Its main purpose is to normalize the functioning of the sebaceous glands, narrow pores, and activate cell function.

Salicylic acid has regenerating and anti-inflammatory properties. It quite quickly softens the upper layer of the epidermis and removes dead cells. These drugs are contraindicated in:

• pregnancy;
• when breastfeeding;
• after solarium;
• for dermatological diseases;
• with sunburn.

"Stopproblem"

Enzyme peeling "Stopproblem" is a cosmetic product containing, in addition to catalysts, salicylic acid. It can be used at any age. Stopproblem enzyme peeling is especially effective in treating acne and its consequences.

Can be used to reduce or completely eliminate signs of rosacea. Peeling with this product can be done in two ways:

Traditionally, a thin layer is applied to cleansed skin for fifteen minutes. If your skin is too sensitive, seven minutes will be enough. After the allotted time has passed, wash off with warm water and apply a nourishing cream.

For more deep cleansing Apply and distribute the composition evenly onto the skin. The face is covered with cling film, in which cutouts are previously made for the eyes, mouth and nose. Leave for twenty minutes. The cost of this product is 200 rubles.

Peeling masks

Today women prefer to use these products at home. Which of them are the most popular, we will consider below.

Janssen

A German drug that contains active enzymes papain, kaolin, bromelain. This product improves blood microcirculation, corrects minor defects, evens out skin texture, smoothes out fine wrinkles.

The powder in the package is mixed with an activator containing sea ​​salt. Apply to the skin and leave for twenty minutes. Wash off with water (warm) large quantities. The drug costs about two thousand rubles.

Danne

The company produces three types of peeling masks, each of which has some features. One of them is designed for a light effect - it eliminates age spots, fine wrinkles, and not too severe acne.

The second mask - for deeper cleansing - is able to fight deep wrinkles, sagging skin, and decreased tone.

The third mask is intended for the treatment of obvious disorders of blood microcirculation and is recommended for rosacea, rosacea, hyperpigmentation, and post-acne.

The cost of such a drug is from two thousand rubles. For comparison, in a salon peeling using products from this company costs an average of seven thousand rubles.

"Myrrh"

The active substance is the enzyme papain. There are no toxic substances or preservatives in the composition. It acts quite gently, although during the procedure a slight burning sensation and redness are felt.

Cost from 350 rubles.

Enzyme peeling gel

These products are suitable for any skin type. They are designed to gently and easily cleanse the skin. Does not affect deep layers of skin. After applying the composition to the cleaned skin with lungs massage it with movements and wash it off with water after twenty minutes.

The gel contains abrasive particles that accelerate the process of exfoliation of dead cells. They remove dirt and oil from enlarged pores. Among this category of drugs, the following are popular:

• “Planet Organic” (based on papaya, AHA acids).
• Avon with salicylic acid.
• "Belita".
• Premium Professional Tropic.

Skin problems can be solved with peeling. This is a fairly effective, but aggressive procedure. That is why it is recommended to give preference to gentle methods. One of these is enzyme facial peeling.

Peeling involves the use of products that are based on enzymes. The most common uses are bromelain, which is made from pineapple, or papain, which is made from papaya.

Enzymes are characterized by a delicate effect. With their help, the substances that hold the scales are dissolved. Thanks to enzyme peeling, salon procedures are carried out.

It can also be used at home. Enzyme peeling provides soft and effective cleansing skin.

Indications and contraindications

Using the procedure, pigment spots and freckles are combated. If the patient has sensitive skin, which causes redness and peeling, then manipulation is necessary.

• Scratches;
• wounds;
• Abrasion.

If the patient has a herpetic infection, then manipulation is strictly prohibited. Contraindications are fungal and bacterial diseases.

Features of enzyme peeling are presented in this video:

If the patient has allergic reactions to the components of the product used, then the manipulation should be abandoned. During the period of acne, peeling is not performed.

Advantages and disadvantages

The advantage of peeling is its versatility. This allows the procedure to be performed by women, regardless of skin type. The procedure is characterized by a mild effect, which limits the possibility of injury to the skin.

Enzyme peeling can be used at any time of the year.

After the session go recovery period no need. After the first procedure, a woman can evaluate the effectiveness of the product.

The disadvantage of this method is the occurrence of slight tingling after applying the product. Also, the disadvantages of the method include the presence of contraindications.

Use of Enzymes

To carry out peeling at home, it is recommended to use appropriate enzymes. In most cases, trypsin is used, which is produced by the pancreas of animals.

With its help, it not only cleanses the skin, but also reduces swelling. The enzyme is characterized high level safety, which allows it to be used by almost all women.

Bromelain can be used for manipulation. With its help, burns, ulcers, and cuts heal quickly. The action of the product is aimed at reducing itching, inflammation, and combating allergic reactions.

The product is characterized by the presence of a pronounced allergic effect. Also used:

• Lysocine. Has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties.
• Herbs. Has an exfoliating and whitening effect.
• Sorbaina. The action is aimed at removing dead skin cells.
• Pepsin. The action is aimed at breaking down proteins.

Preparation of the product

If it is not possible to purchase a professional product, you can prepare it at home. To do this, add one ampoule to half a glass of water.

Also included are several grams of papain.

You need to take guar gum on the tip of a knife and add it to the composition. The mixture is thoroughly mixed and used for peeling. All components for the product can be purchased at the pharmacy without a prescription.

Professional products

Among professional means for enzyme peeling you can select GIGI. The drug is characterized by a rich composition, which ensures exfoliation of dead cells, as well as softening and whitening of the skin.

You can also use the drug Jansenn, which is developed on the basis of subtillysin, an enzyme of bacterial origin. The drug is recommended for excessive sensitivity of the skin.

Preparatory stage

Due to the mild effect of the drugs, manipulation does not require special preparation. The patient must avoid relaxing on the beach, visiting saunas and solariums a week before the session.

Carrying out in the salon

Enzyme resurfacing is most often carried out in salon conditions. Initially, the skin is cleared of decorative cosmetics.

After cleansing the skin, a pre-peeling solution is applied, which ensures high-quality penetration of the active enzymes into the skin. After half an hour, peeling is applied to the skin.

It must be held for 10 to 30 minutes. The duration of action of the product is determined in accordance with the assigned tasks. The product is removed with warm and clean water. If peeling was carried out with acids, then the use of acid neutralizers is recommended to eliminate it.

Peeling at home

If desired, the patient can perform enzyme peeling at home, which consists of several stages. The first of them involves thorough cleaning of the skin from impurities and decorative cosmetics.

For this purpose, foam or lotion is used. Next, the pre-peel solution is carefully applied. IN in this case Skipping is strictly prohibited, as this can lead to the development of an inflammatory process.

At the next stage, the peeling agent is applied to the skin. The exposure time of the solution should be from 15 to 20 minutes. For excessively oily skin, you can use the drug for half an hour.

In order to achieve the highest possible effect, a plastic film is applied to the skin. The solution is washed off with warm, pre-boiled water.

Post-session care

In order to consolidate the results of grinding, you must adhere to certain rules. Patients are strictly prohibited from touching the skin with their hands for 24 hours after the procedure.

This video will tell you how to perform enzyme peeling yourself:

During the week after the session, regular use of lotions that have a calming effect should be carried out. Their selection is carried out in accordance with the type of skin.

In the first three days after the procedure, it is recommended to abandon decorative cosmetics. During the week after enzyme peeling, the face should be protected from negative impact direct sunlight.

Efficiency

The results of peeling are noticeable for women after the first session. The skin is cleansed and becomes more elastic. Also, the effect of peeling is aimed at lightening.

Thanks to the procedure, fine wrinkles become less pronounced. The action of peeling is aimed at stabilizing the performance of the sebaceous glands.

That is why after using the product there is a significant decrease in the level of oily skin. After several manipulations, the amount of acne and...

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Enzyme (enzymatic) facial peeling

Enzyme peeling - what is it?

Enzyme peeling (enzymatic)- This is a superficial peeling, in which the active substance is not acids, but enzymes. Enzyme peeling is a fairly gentle procedure suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin with rosacea.

The effect of enzyme facial peeling is to carefully cleanse the skin of protein impurities, secretions of sebaceous and sweat glands, as well as to remove dead cells of the stratum corneum of the epidermis. The skin is evened out, polished and smoothed, acquiring an even, radiant, healthy color. After the procedure, no rehabilitation is required, there is no peeling or hyperemia.

Enzymatic peels are suitable for young skin to cleanse, moisturize and protect. For aging skin, such peelings stimulate the processes of its renewal, restoration of tone, relief and skin color. In addition, enzyme facial peeling helps fight hyperpigmentation, acne and is suitable for sensitive skin prone to inflammation and allergies, as well as skin with rosacea and rosacea. Enzyme peeling can be done at home.

Properties and mechanism of action of enzymes

Enzymes or Enzymes– these are special substances with a protein structure that play the role of biological catalysts (accelerators) or inhibitors (retarders) of chemical reactions occurring in living organisms. All biochemical reactions in cells occur under the influence of enzymes, of which there are over 5000. They are usually divided into 6 classes depending on the type of reaction they catalyze:

· oxidoreductases– catalyze redox reactions;

· transferases– catalyze reactions of transfer of certain chemical groups from one molecule to another;

hydrolases– catalyze hydrolysis reactions, i.e. the breakdown of substances with the participation of water;

· lyases– catalyze the breaking of chemical bonds without the participation of water;

isomerases– cause changes in the structure of the molecule while maintaining its composition;

· ligases (synthetases)– catalyze synthesis reactions.

In cosmetology, hydrolase enzymes are more often used: protease - breaks down protein compounds, carbohydrases - carbohydrates, lipases - fats.

Mechanism of action of enzyme peeling

The stratum corneum of the epidermis contains proteolytic enzymes (proteases) of the hydrolase class, which regulate the flow rate chemical reactions in tissues and take an active part in the processes of renewal of the epidermis due to the breakdown of proteins into peptides and amino acids. Epidermal proteases are responsible for the differentiation of keratinocytes, the formation and destruction of desmosomes (mechanical intercellular connections), and the formation of lipid cement, in particular ceramides. As a result of aging processes, the activity of proteases decreases, which in turn leads to loss of moisture, a decrease in the rate of formation and renewal of the structural parts of epidermal cells. That is, the upper stratum corneum thickens, sebum and impurities accumulate on the surface of the skin, the relief becomes uneven, and the color becomes dull and gray.

Proteolytic enzymes included in the enzyme peeling weaken the cohesion of corneocytes by destroying the structural chemical bonds of desmosomes and thereby facilitate the exfoliation of horny scales, and also directly break down keratin (skin protein). The effect of enzymatic peeling does not extend beyond the stratum corneum of the epidermis, since the size and charge of the enzymes prevents their further penetration into the skin, but by removing the top layer, the production of fibroblasts and skin cell renewal are stimulated.

Proteases are most active at pH 5-5.5 (weakly acidic); there are also antiproteases in the skin that affect the enzymes of the peeling composition, changing or suppressing their activity. In this case, peeling enzymes can interact with them, forming compounds that have a proteolytic effect. In this case, they become immune to other protein inhibitors and can continue their activity. When compounds are formed, their antigenic origin may not be recognized.

Types of enzymes used in peels and masks

1. Enzyme peels contain enzymes of plant, animal and bacterial origin, which are similar to skin proteases. In plants, protease is found in papaya, pineapple, coconut, kiwi, fig, mango, pumpkin, lemon, pomegranate, blueberry, etc. The main plant enzymes used in enzyme peels are: papain, bromelain, ficin and actinidin.

Papain- a proteolytic plant enzyme contained in the milky juice of the melon tree (papaya), which catalyzes the hydrolysis of proteins to amino acids, has an antimicrobial effect and removes dead cells from the surface layer of the skin.

Sorbain– these are combined lemon and papaya enzymes that remove dead cells stratum corneum and thereby stimulate cell renewal.

Bromelain- a plant proteolytic enzyme contained in pineapple fruits that destroys peptide bonds between amino acids inside the protein. Removes dead cells from the surface of the skin, and also has a powerful immunomodulatory, anti-inflammatory, anti-edematous, healing and lipolytic effect.

Ficin- a plant proteolytic enzyme contained in the juice of the stems and leaves of the fig fruit tree (Ficus sp.), capable of hydrolyzing native collagen and breaking down proteins. Removes dead cells and stimulates collagen production.

Actinidin- a proteolytic plant enzyme contained in kiwi fruits that destroys peptide bonds between amino acids inside the protein. Cleanses the skin surface of dead cells.

Arbutin– is a tyrosinase inhibitor, found in the leaves of bearberry, lingonberry, wintergreen, and Caucasian blueberry, inhibits melanin synthesis, and is an analogue of kojic acid. Has a whitening effect.

2. Enzyme peels also contain proteases of animal origin: pepsin, trypsin, chymotrypsin and pancreatin and lysozyme.

Pepsin (Persinum)- a proteolytic enzyme of the hydrolase class, obtained from the gastric mucosa of pigs, sheep and calves, breaks down proteins into peptides.

Trypsin- a proteolytic enzyme of the hydrolase class, belonging to the group of serine proteases, which breaks down peptides and proteins, obtained from the pancreas of cattle.

Chymotrypsin- proteolytic enzyme, catalyzes the breakdown of proteins and peptides, obtained from the pancreas of cattle.

Pancreatin– an enzyme that has proteolytic, amylolytic and lipolytic effects, obtained from the pancreas of pigs and cattle.

Lysozyme- antibacterial enzyme of the hydrolase class, capable of destroying bacterial cell walls and intercellular cement, obtained from protein chicken eggs, has a bactericidal and anti-inflammatory effect, stimulates the immune system.

3. The most active proteases are of bacterial origin. These include: subtilisin (subtilopeptidase) and travase.

Subtilisin- an enzyme of the hydrolase class that catalyzes the hydrolysis of proteins and peptides, as well as esters and amides of N-protected amino acids, more effective in contrast to papain, since it destroys more different protein bonds. This enzyme is produced by the bacteria Bacillus subtilis and related bacteria during the fermentation process.

Grass (sutilains)– a protease enzyme produced by the bacteria Bacillus subtilis, has a pronounced loosening and exfoliating effect. Often used in whitening products cosmetics.

4. Enzyme peels and masks also contain milk proteins (casein, calcium caseinate, lactalbumin, lactoglobulin) and enzymes (Alkaline proteinase I, Alkaline proteinase II, Proteinase I, proteinase II and Acid proteinase).

Casein (caseus)- a complex protein (phosphoprotein) formed from caseinogen during the enzymatic curdling of milk. Moisturizes, softens the skin and promotes regeneration processes. Calcium caseinate is found in bound form as a calcium salt in milk.

Lactalbumin and lactoglobulin They are whey proteins from mammalian milk and contain all amino acids.

Alkaline proteinase I is an enzyme similar in structure to blood plasma proteinase, it catalyzes the hydrolysis of protein into peptides and amino acids. Found in fresh milk and can be produced by bacteria.

Alkaline proteinase II– this enzyme is similar in its properties to the blood enzyme thrombin.

Proteinase I– this enzyme is active towards peptide bonds formed by lysine.

Proteinase II- this enzyme is active towards peptide bonds formed by arginine.

Acid proteinase is similar in its properties to the rennet enzyme (chymosin), which produces partial hydrolysis of milk casein, and is similar to cathepsin, an enzyme of the hydrolase class that catalyzes the hydrolysis of the peptide bond.

Cosmetic products also use enzymes to protect against UV rays - endonucleases, which restore cell DNA; enzymes that protect the skin from free radicals - super-hydroxide dismutase and defensin, which activate the immune system and regeneration processes; a powerful catalyst for regeneration processes - coenzyme Q10 is an antioxidant, responsible for energy metabolism and saturation of cells with oxygen.
In addition, enzyme peels often include: kaolin (white clay), vitamins, minerals, plant extracts and extracts, milk and vegetable proteins.

Indications and contraindications for enzyme peeling

Indications

· Dark spots
Acne and the consequences of acne
· All skin types, including sensitive with rosacea
· Can be carried out to people with dark skin
Superficial fine wrinkles
· Clogged pores (comedones, milia)
Uneven dull skin
· Decreased tone
· Contaminated skin
· Skin after sun exposure and with signs of photoaging
· Preparation for more serious procedures.

Contraindications

· Individual intolerance to drugs
· Skin diseases during the period of exacerbation
· Diabetes and other diseases leading to decreased immunity
Damage to the skin
· Herpes virus in active form.

Pros and cons of enzyme peeling

Pros of enzyme peeling

1. Has a more gentle effect than light superficial peels with fruit acids, but the effect is the same.

2. Can be used all year round.

3. Suitable for all skin types, even those prone to irritation and those with telangiectasia and spider veins, as it acts very softly and superficially, without abrasive particles.

4. All products applied afterwards penetrate better and act more actively due to the removal and loosening of the stratum corneum.

5. Can be used as an express procedure, as it produces an instant effect.

6. Not required rehabilitation period, no peeling or hyperemia.

7. Can be used at home after consultation with a cosmetologist.

8. Enzymes slow down the growth of facial hair and make the hair shaft thinner; this is what enzyme hair removal is based on.

9. Suitable for body and hand skin.

10. A good alternative if you are intolerant to acids and if you become addicted to ANA and other exfoliations with long-term use.

11. Can be used according to indications during pregnancy and breastfeeding.

Minuses

It is impossible to get rid of serious problems such as deep wrinkles and scars.
Complications may occur: exacerbation of acne, dermatitis, herpes virus, allergies.

You should not overuse enzyme peels, otherwise you may have the opposite effect. The skin will become overdried and the complexion will become dull as a result of the breakdown of the skin's protective mantle.

Pre-peeling preparation

A day before the procedure, you should not use medications with acids and retinol, and you should not perform depilation. Enzyme peeling should not be performed after dermabrasion and laser skin resurfacing until the skin has recovered.

Carrying out the procedure

When performing enzyme peeling for the first time, you should conduct a sensitivity test - apply the peeling composition to the inner surface of the wrist and leave for 10 minutes. If allergic reaction is not observed, then you can use this peeling.

1. Makeup removal and toning (cleansers and lotions according to skin types).

2. Enzyme peeling. The peeling composition is applied to the skin in the following sequence: forehead, cheeks, chin, cheekbones, nose, eyelids, lips, neck and décolleté. When applying some enzyme peels, you should avoid the eye and mouth areas. Enzymatic peels can also be used on the body. Exposure time, depending on the composition and the desired effect, is from 10 to 30 minutes. Enzymes love warmth and moisture, and therefore, to activate them, the face is covered with a damp, warm towel (compress) or covered with film. A cosmetologist can also massage over the peeling composition.

Enzyme peels come ready-made - in a tube or in powder form, which should be diluted immediately before the procedure. The diluted peeling composition cannot be stored.

3. Neutralization. After the exposure time has expired, the peeling composition is washed off with warm water; if the enzyme peeling contains acids, an alkaline neutralizer may be required. Then the skin is toned.

4. After enzyme peeling You should apply a mask according to your skin problem. It will penetrate better and give a good result, and you can also use active serums.

5. Cream according to skin type and preferably protection from UV rays.

Skin sensations and reactions during the procedure

During the procedure, the patient may feel a slight tingling and burning sensation; these sensations will go away on their own after the procedure. Flushing may occur and should subside within 30 minutes.

Compatible with other procedures

Good results can be achieved by combining enzyme peeling with facial cleansing and darsonvalization. Can be combined with superficial peels with alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs). Enzyme peeling is carried out as preparatory stage to more serious procedures ( laser resurfacing, microcrystalline dermabrasion, medium peels, mesoscooter).

Number of procedures

The course consists of 5-8 procedures, 1-2 times a week depending on skin type. Professional enzyme peels with the addition of acids are carried out in 1 procedure every 7-10 days, a course of 5-10 procedures.

Photos before and after

Skin care after the procedure

You should use sunscreen with SPF of at least 15 throughout the course and moisturizers.

Possible complications after enzyme peeling

Allergic contact dermatitis
· Seborrheic dermatitis
Exacerbation of acne
Exacerbation of the herpes virus

The effect of enzyme peeling

The visible effect is noticeable immediately after the first procedure, but the result can only be judged after completing the entire course.

· Cleansed skin of protein impurities and dead cells
· Radiant, healthy and fresh skin with a uniform color
· Skin is smooth, delicate with even texture
· Less pronounced fine wrinkles
Pores will become smaller
Post-acne signs are less pronounced